Sketches of Portuguese life, manners, costume and character. Illustrated by twenty coloured plates. By A. P. D. G

Introduction

. The following sketches were all drawn from life. They lay claim to no merit in composition, beyond that of offering — so far as they go — a faithful delineation of Portuguese manners, customs, and character. The author has been careful only in observing a rigid adherence to facts ; and to the respectable and unprejudiced British residents in Portugal who are acquainted, however superfi cially, with the habits of the people, he appeals with confidence to corroborate the truth of his pictures. In apology for the literary defects of the pre sent volume, the author has not a syllable to say : — except that no one can be more sensible of those defects than himself. But he has ventured to believe, that an intimate knowledge of a subject a

INTRODUCTION.

. VIII might be considered to redeem numerous imperfec tions of method and style ; and he will be forgiven for having felt, that he at least possessed some superior qualifications for his task, over writers who, after a mere residence of a few months, weeks, or even days at Lisbon, have without hesi tation undertaken to describe all the peculiarities of the people and country. To enable the reader to judge of the opportunities thus enjoyed by the author, of long and intimate communication with Portuguese society, he shall take leave to state in a few words the position in which he stood with that nation. At the age of twenty, and in the year 1793, the author entered the Portuguese civil service, and continued in it up to 1804 : when, unable any longer to resist the torrent of intrigue to which every foreigner in that service is subjected, he quitted for a time both his adopted country and profession.

But, in 1809, an advantageous situation being offered to him in the victualling de partment of the British army then in Portugal, he returned to that kingdom, with advantages

INTRODUCTION.

. IX possessed by few of his nation : — a good know ledge of the language and the people. It is princi pally from the later experience of this second residence of many years — which terminated only at a recent period, — that he has attempted to describe the state of society in Portugal. The disgust once provoked in his mind by unjust treatment has long subsided ; and he is conscious rather of partiality for, than prejudice against, the Portuguese and their country. To most of the scenes mentioned, the author was himself an eye witness : — but all of them are either in themselves so well known in the country, or must at least be so familiarly recognized there as characteristic, that the author feels, however extraordinary some of his descriptions may appear, no apprehension that their authenticity can be questioned.

But if the reader be sceptical, let him refer to any one who has resided in Portugal. As the author had at first no other intention than that of illustrating his few drawings by short MS. notices, the volume, into which these have a

INTRODUCTION.

. X gradually swelled, can boast, he fears, of little connection or order ; and, as he has had no dispo sition to inflict a longer work on the world, much, he is aware, has been left unsaid on the customs of the Portuguese in private life. But he regrets this omission the less that the subject has been noticed by others ; and he has preferred rather to confine himself to topics, which have been alto gether neglected by former writers. Regarding two subjects into which he has en tered, the author desires, however, to be permitted to offer a few words of explanation in the outset. The fair authoress of some late Letters from Portugal * has in her preface declared her principle, that " the whole truth should not always be told :" — a principle fully justified, in her case, by the sensitive and delicate feelings which are the sweetest charm of her sex.

But upon the male observer in that country, a similar obligation of silence cannot in an equal degree be imposed. * Lisbon in the years 1821, 1822, and 1823. By Ma rianne Baillie.

INTRODUCTION.

. XI He must witness many scenes which the delicacy of an Englishwoman will be spared ; he may mark many things, from which she would shrink with aversion and shame ; and he can without im propriety enter into details of habits and circumstances, to which modesty will not even permit her to allude. Of the customs of a country like Portugal, no delicate Englishwoman can be a full and exact reporter ; — and the author trusts that the most fastidious reader will not be offended at delineations of manners, which are more gross than the sketches of a female hand, only because they are verily in the same degree more faithful. The author's second point of explanation relates to a more serious theme. When the Pro testant Christian visits Portugal, he is hourly shocked by witnessing the conversion of all the holiest associations of his faith, into objects of gross and debasing superstition, senseless mum mery, and atrocious fraud.

Our reverence for sacred things revolts from their exhibition in ludi crous colours — still more in blasphemous distor tion ; and, unless justified by the object, even the PAGE 1 CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Costumes Of Lisbon

Female Chesnut Roaster — Marine Soldier — Gallego or Water-Carrier — Estimate of the Virtues attributed to that Race — Some notable Instances of their Fidelity and Catholic Scruples — And of their Forbearance also — Groupe in a Balcony — Favourite Portuguese Occupation — Tendeira or Female Huckster — Soldier selling Fish — Ilhavo Fisherman — Lisbon Beggar — Barber's Shop — Monk — Story of Prince Waldeck — Morals of the Portuguese Friars — Their unbounded Influence — Story of a pretended Miracle at Evora — Its Detection — Fearful Tyranny in the Interior of Monasteries

Chapter II. Ramble Through Lisbon

Quays and Landing Places— Boatmen of the Tagus — Natives of the Algarves, the most Expert — Description of Boats used on the River — Molettas— Faluas— Their CONTENTS. TAOE Grotesque Decorations — Straw Boats — Water-side People — Their infamous Character — Family of Cut throats — Adventure with one of them — Fine Quay of the Terreiro do Pa<;o — Custom House — And other Public Buildings — Royal Marine Arsenal — State of the Portuguese Navy — A first rate Ship of the Line — Her curious Outfit — Story of her Voyage to the Brazils 29

Chapter III. Ramble Through Lisbon

Largo do Pelourinho — Caes do Sodre — Embarkation of __ the French Troops after the Convention of Cintra — Atrocities committed against them by the Populace of Lisbon — Horrible Barbarity of a Woman — Fanaticism of the Lisbon Rabble — Narrow Escape of a Barbary Jew from their Fury — Ribeira Nova — Fish Market — Fishermen of the Tagus — Mode of harpooning Fish by Torch-light — Catraios or Passage-boats — Fowling Parties on the Tagus — Bathing, a favorite Amusement of all Orders in Portugal — Bathing Parties of Ladies and Gentlemen — Description of them — a fortunate Resource — Want of Cleanliness of all Classes in other Respects • CONTENTS. XV PAGE

Chapter IV. Ramble Through Lisbon

Absence of pictorial and poetical Taste in Portugal — Convent of Alcantara — Disaster of a Nun — Church of S. Amaro, the Patron of the Gallegos — Votive Offerings to his Shrine — Rope House — Square of Belem — Royal Riding House — Queen's Gardens — Managerie — Queen's Palace — Cruel Fate of the Marquess of Tavora and his Family — Iniquity of the Jesuits — Monastery of Belem of the Order of S. Jeronimo — Belem Castle — Health Office — Geographical Learning of its Officers — Church of the Memoria — Its beautiful Situation — Museum — Royal Palace of the Ajuda — Its gigantic Proportions — Impossibility of completing it •• ••• 69

Chapter V. Ramble Through Lisbon

Buenos Ayres — Limits of this Quarter of Lisbon — Beauty of the Prospect from thence — Grandeur of the Tagus — Signal Station — Sebastianistas — Error of a fair Traveller respecting that absurd Sect — Story of King Sebastian — His early Reign — His rash Love of Enterprise — His Expedition to Africa^- Vain Attempts to dissuade him from undertaking it — Amount of his Forces — His first Operations in Africa — Battle of the Luco — Defeat, Capture, and probable Death of Sebastian — Various Opinions on his Fate — Belief of the Sebastianistas that he will yet appear on Earth CONTENTS. PAGE 105

Chapter VI. Ramble Through Lisbon

Church and Monastery of S. Joao de Deos — Exhibition of Saints on the Day of All Souls — Palace of Janellas Verdes — Convent and Church of O Coragao de Jesus — Grandeur and Magnificence of these Edifices — Description of them — Hospital of the British Factory — English Burying-ground and Chapel — Monastery of St. Domingos at Bern Fica — Its splendid Endowments — Sepulchre of the Hero, Don John de Castro — His Epitaph — Some Account of his Exploits and Character — His early Life — His Vice-royalty in India — Heroic Defence of Dio — Don John pawns his Whiskers — His Letter to the People of Goa — His notable Piety — Discovery of the miraculous Cross of Meliapor — Drawing of it sent to Don Sebastian — Close of Don John de Castro's career — Dying Speech of the Hero

Chapter VII. Religious Processions Of Lisbon

Church of S. Roque — Cathedral Church of S. Antonio — Veracious Legends of that Saint — His prodigious Reputation at this Day — Curious Treatment which the Saint sometimes receives — Convent of N. S\ da Graga — Blasphemous Legends attached to it — Procession of the Pagos da Graca — Penitents who accompany it — Entertainments usual after its Passage — Corpos d'agua — Procession of the Corpo de Deos — Its Magnificence — Figure and Equipage of S. George— The Saint a Brigadier in the Portu- Mil PAOE 129 CONTENTS. guese Service — Procession of S. Antonio — Numer ous Images of Saints which attend it — S. Fran cisco de Paula and his Stigmata — Another goodly Le gend of S. Antonio — Procession of S. Bento — Re markable for the pantomimic Exhibition of the Story of Abraham and Isaac — Procissa6 do Dessacato — Terco, or Evening Hymn to the Virgin in the Streets — Fine vocal Music — Procession of our Lady of Pains — Burlesque religious Procesions : — That of the Obse quies of Bacalhao (or Salt Fish) after Lent, and ano ther of the Artisans at Michaelmas — Curious Spirit shewn in these Mummeries

Chapter VIII. Portuguese Equipages

Low State of the useful Arts in Portugal — Sege, or Chaise, almost the only kind of Carriage in Use — Its clumsy Construction — Digression on Flies — Hackney Sege — Rate of Hire — Insolence of Drivers — Equipages of the Nobility — Carriage Mules — Royal Breed of the Raga d'Alter — Mode of foddering Animals in Portugal — Cruel Custom of obliging them to sleep standing — Peculiar Disease incident to Animals in this Climate — Stable Retinue of a Fidalgo — Numerous Ruffians harboured in noble Residences — Shameless Immunity from Justice — Instance of the Effects of this — Hopeful Education of young Fidalgos — Laquaios and Stable-boys their Companions — Their Equestrian Feats — Costume of a Portuguese noble Dandy — Taste of the CONTENTS. TACE Portuguese Nobles for the Fine Arts — Anecdote — Noble Privilege of Aposentadoria — Description and Enormity of the Abuse — King Pedro the Cruel — His rigorous Impartiality— His strange Administration of retributive Justice — Numerous Households of the Fi dalgos — Their mean Economy — Their Pride — Pedi gree of the House of Da Costa — Portuguese Titles and Modes of Address 153

Chapter IX. The Portuguese Court

Court of Don Joao VI. at Rio — Days of the Beijamao or kissing of Hands — Account of the Ceremonial — The Royal Family of Portugal — Universal Reception of Petitions by the King — Gross Abuse of this paternal Condescension — Devotion of the King — Hypocrisy of his Suitors — Exquisite Music of the Royal Chapel — The Patriarch of Lisbon — Account of his State and Dignity — His Palace and immense Revenues — Description of his Equipage — Miracle lately worked by the Virgin to save the Life of the Patriarch 173

Chapter X. Portuguese Manners, Female Dress

&C. Dress of the lower Orders of Women — Their fine Hair — Want of Cleanliness — Habits of Seclusion of all Classes of Females— Mode of carrying on amatory Correspondence — Going to Mass — Coquettish Adjustment of CONTENTS. XIX PACE 185 203 Dress — Graceful Step — Fine Eyes of the Portuguese Women — Conduct of both Sexes at Mass — Amorous Susceptibility of the Portuguese — Love Affairs — In effectual Vigilance of- Parents — Custom of immuring Daughters in Convents — Curious Law in Favor of Lovers — A Love Tale — Fate of the Parties— Street Costumes of Females — The universal Capote — Its convenient Covering — Anecdote of the Capote — Roda, or Foundling Hospital — Infanticide — A Story from Portuguese Life • •

Chapter XI. Some Portuguese Customs

Accouchement of a Portuguese Lady — The Aid of the Saints solicited — Numerous Families — Disposition of Property — Fraternal Affection and filial Piety of the Portuguese — Daily Habits of grateful Devotion — As Trindades — Universal Prayer at Noon — Ave Marias — Blessing on Sneezing — Habits of Gallantry and Politeness — Violent Gesticulations — Charitable Feelings of the People — Beggars — Salutations to Acquaintances and Strangers— Forms of Address on Letters — Fondness of Portuguese Women for Lapdogs and Parrots — Grossness of the Portuguese in Conversation

Chapter XII

' PORTUGUESE AMUSEMENTS. Gambling— Music — Modinhas — Waltzes — Landums— The Guitar — Character of the Modinha — Example of XX CONTENTS. PAGE 217 235 one from the famous Composer Vidigal — Eccentricity and Violence of Vidigal — Bontempo, the Portuguese Mozart — Character of his Pieces — Dancing — The English Country-dance — Quadrilles — Minuets — Game of Forfeits— Enigmas— The Carnival— Its Dul ness — Carnival Frolics of the middle Classes — Brutal and unmeaning Jests of the Rabble — Waste of Oranges — Ash-Wednesday — Gloom and Fanaticism — Bull Fights — Account of a remarkable one — The Champion a Negro — His Dexterity and Courage — His unfortunate Fate — Absurd Combat between a Cornish Tailor and a Bull — Burricados or Donkey-parties ....

Chapter XIII. Portuguese Funerals

Procession of the Host to a dying Person — Joined by all Passengers — Intrusion of the Rabble into the Chamber of the Dying — Beneficent Results expected from this — Bodies laid in State — Ceremony of Interment — Funeral Service — Chaunt of the De Profundis — Its impressive Character — Interment of the poorer Classes — Revolting Usage — Pernicious Custom of burying in Churches in so hot a Climate — Funeral Invitation — Bodies of the Poor exposed to collect Alms for their Funeral Expences — Cupidity of the Priests — Office of the Brotherhood of the Misericordia — Contempt of the Portuguese Rabble for burial by Charity • CONTENTS. XXI PAGE 251

Chapter XIV. The Portuguese Army

&C. A Portuguese Soldier under Sentence of Death — Humane Treatment ofthe Condemned — Its Abuse by the Friars — Ceremonial of Executions — Scene of the Kind sketched on the Ground — Portuguese Militia — Soldierlike Appearance of these Corps — Military Punishments — The Pranxada, or Blows with the flat of the Sabre — Military Surgeons — Their former De gradation — Low State of the Surgical and Medical Arts in Portugal — Laws regulating the Profession — Instance of Chirurgical Ignorance — Excellent Cha racteristics of the Portuguese Soldier — Rareness of Crime — Vigour of the military Power in aid of the civil — Inertness of the civil Power — Aggravated by the Reluctance of the People to give Evidence against Criminals— Absurd Law of the late Queen forbidding the capital Punishment of Women — Flagrant Instance of its ' pernicious Effects — Corrupt Administration of the Laws — Examples of this — Religious and Military Orders of Knighthood in Portugal — The most ancient, that of Aviz — Order of S. Jago da Espada — Its De basement — Instance of this — Order of Christ — All these Orders exclusively for Catholics — Institution of the Order of the Tower and Sword for Protestants — Ancient Order of Aza — Eagerness of the Portuguese for Chivalric Decorations — Their Abuse — Degraded State of the Portuguese Army before the Reforms in troduced by British Influence b CONTENTS. &c, ."...I 273 283

Chapter XV. Portuguese Architecture, Furniture, Gardens

Clumsy Construction of Portuguese Houses— Their Form — Gardens — Ingenious Modes of watering them — Ornamental Architecture — Frescos — Palace of the Marquis of Louie — Its Destruction — Portuguese Furniture — Fantastic Tiling — Street Saints » .

Chapter XVI. Negroes Of Lisbon

Sketch of a Group of Negroes begging Alms for the Feast of the black Virgin of Atalaya — Belief that the Virgin was black — And S. Antonio also — That Saint a Captain in the Regiment of Lagos — -Application of the Clergy for the Saint's Promotion — Landun or Negro Dance — Extravagant Passion of the Portuguese for this Dance — Description of it, as performed among the higher Orders — Festival of N. S. D' Atalaya — Negro Sermon — Anecdote of Negro Friars at Rio de Janeiro

Chapter XVII. Negroes Of The Brazils

&C Importation of Negroes into the Brazils — Their miserable Cohdition— Slave Shop at Rio de Janeiro — A Merchant from the Minas bargaining for Negroes — Anecdote — XJCII1 PAGE 295 CONTENTS. Cruel Manner of marking Slaves — Runaway Negroes — Good Fortune of Negroes retained for domestic Service at Rio — Policy of the Brazilian Government in promoting Negroes to Dignities— Religions Houses of Negroes — Heterogeneous Mixture of Blood in the Brazils— Women of Colour— Their vindictive Qualities—Negro Assassins — Cruelty of Negroes to Inferiors of their own Colour — Frightful Diseases of the Brazils — Humanity of Portuguese Families to their Negroes — Condition of Negroes very different in Por tugal—Nameless Offices imposed on them — Curious and pleasing Instance of the Interchange of Kindness between a Portuguese and a Negro Woman

Chapter XVIII. Salojos Or Portuguese Peasantry

Going to the Lisbon Market — Delicious Fruits of the Country — Other Articles of rural Produce — Cheese — Cream — Poultry — Game — Market Peasantry, obliged to travel by Night — Habit thus acquired of telling the Hours by the Heavens — Mode of Hawking rural Produce about the Lisbon Streets — Saloios returning from Market — Usual Food of the Peasantry — Excellent Qualities of this athletic Race — Superiority of their Character to that of all other Classes in Lisbon — Saloias or Female Peasants — Personal Appearance — Custom of employing them as Nurses — Their troublesome Character — Subsequent Right of Free Quarters — Their Superstition and Love of the Marvellous— b2 CONTENTS. XXIV PAGE Mischievous Effects upon Children— Costume of the Saloias— Equipages of their market Burros (donkeys) — Pastoral Simplicity of the Portuguese Peasantry — Generosity of Heart — Patriotism of the Lavradores or Farmers in the lastWar — Primæval Rudeness of Portu guese Agriculture — Treading out the Corn — Wine making — Course of the Process— Bullock Cars — Their rude Construction — Abominable Groaning and Squeak ing of the Axle-trees — Partiality of the Peasants for the Sound — Music of the Peasantry — Doleful Love Ditties — Repartee of a Saloia 315

Chapter XIX. Portuguese Villages, Productions Of The Country

&C. Peculiar Appearance of a Portuguese Hamlet — Rural Architecture — Village Churches — Grotesque Images on their Altars — N. S. da Congeigao — An Object of universal Worship in Portugal — The Virgin, a great Worker of Miracles — Two curious Samples of these — Veneration of the Portuguese Villagers for the Stork — TheirVirtuesnot attributable to theirPastors — Infamous Profligacy of the parish Priesthood — Instances of this — Aspect of the Country north of the Tagus — And of the southern Provinces — The Oak — The Cork Tree — The Olive — Various Fruits — The Portuguese famous for their delicious Sweetmeats — Chilacayota Bolo Podre Aguardente, the only spirituous Liquor drunk in Portugal — Lemonade — Capillaire — Attempt to introduce Beer CONTENTS. XXV

Chapter XX. Political Conspiracy At Lisbon In

1817. PAGE Secrecy of State Trials in Portugal — Discovery of the Conspiracy of 1817 — Its Particulars never promulgated — Secret Trial of the Offenders — Preparation for their Execution — Difficulty of procuring a Hangman — Impunity of a Wretch convicted of twelve Murders — His Story — A Hangman brought from Oporto — Morning of the Execution — Dress of the Condemned — Procession to the Gallows — Wretched Appearance of the Prisoners — Particulars of their Sentence — Good Feeling of the Portuguese People — General Repugnance to witness the Execution — Sketch of the whole Scene — Pinto, one of the condemned — His Agony of Despair — Revolting Mode of Execution — Cabral, another Conspirator ; his Terror of Death — Tardiness of the Executions — Exhaustion of the last Sufferers — Apprehension of a Rising of the People — Tumult — Process of burning the Bodies of the Condemned Directions to the Binder how to place the Plates.

No. . to face page 1. Costumes of Lisbon ••• 3 2. Quay at Belem 31 3. Straw Boats unloading 36 4. Party bathing in the Tagus 64 5. All Souls' Day — Exhibition of Saints in the Convent of S. Joao de Deos--«« •••< ••• 108 6. Procession of the Senhor dos Pacos da Gra9a • • • • 138 7. S. Francisco de Paula, in the Procession of S. Antonio < 144 8. Sege, or Lisbon Chaise 155 9. Don Joao VI. 's Court-Day at Rio Janeiro 175 10. Party at Rio 180 Modinha of the famous Vidigal 221 1 1 . A Portuguese Funeral 242 1 2. Portuguese Military Execution 254 13. Patrol of Portuguese Cavalry 264 14. Negroes begging for the Festival of N. S. d' Atalaya 285 15. Slave Shop at Rio de Janeiro 298 16. Saloia (female Peasant) hawking Fruit 317 17. Saloios returning from Market • • ... 320 1 8. Peasants of Foz de Aronce — Prov. of Beira 340 19. Execution of the Conspirators of 1817 — No. 1 349 20. Execution ofthe Conspirators of 1817— No. 2

Chapter I. Costumes Of Lisbon

FEMALE CHESNUT-ROASTER — MARINE SOLDIER GALLEGO OR WATER-CARRIER ESTIMATE OF THE VIRTUES ATTRIBUTED TO THAT RACE SOME NOTABLE INSTANCES OF THEIR FIDELITY AND CATHOLIC SCRUPLES— AND OF THEIR FORBEARANCE ALSO GROUP IN A BALCONY FAVORITE PORTUGUESE OCCUPATION TENDEIRA OR FEMALE HUCKSTER SOLDIER SELLING FISH ILHAVO FISHERMAN LISBON BEGGAR BARBER'S SHOP MONK — STORY OF PRINCE WALDECK MORALS OF THE PORTUGUESE FRIARS THEIR UNBOUNDED INFLUENCE STORY OF A PRE TENDED MIRACLE AT EVORA ITS DETECTION — FEARFUL TY RANNY IN THE INTERIOR OF MONASTERIES. B

CHAPTER I. COSTUMES OF LISBON.

As the nature of the following sketches does not restrict me to the observance of any particular arrangement, I shall indulge my caprice by at once setting my reader down in the streets of Lisbon, and introducing him to the group in the accompanying plate. In describing these goodly personages, I shall take them in the order in which they stand, from left to right, with the exception of the monk, whom I shall speak of lastly, having more than one word to say about him and his fra ternity. The woman, who is sitting cross-legged holding a distaff and spindle in her left hand, and fanning her earthen stove (fogareiro) with her right, is a chesnut-roasting damsel, in the vicinity of whose post are generally to be seen some lounging gal legos waiting there for employment, owing to the facility offered them of lighting their segars at her coal fire.

There is nothing very particular to be said respecting these females, further than that no people in the world roast chesnuts half so well. b2 MARINE SOLDIER. The soldier, who is seen igniting his paper wrapped segar, belongs to the corps of marines. They are the most unsoldier-like troops in the country, the privates being composed chiefly of the scum of Lisbon : undersized, puny, awkward-looking fellows, who have been rejected in the enlist ments made for the fine corps of the line. Neither their uniform nor tactics underwent any change during the late war, owing to their never having been under that influence which worked such wonders of amelioration in the army. They can nevertheless boast of having amongst them several officers of no small merit: particularly colonel the Chev. F • • • • , a man of excellent abilities and of highly cultivated mind, to whom Portugal, and I may say the whole of civilized Europe, is indebted for the best surveys of the coast of that country.

I have also learned from an officer, who formerly was personally acquainted with the chevalier, that he has very properly been entrusted with the di rection of the studies of the college of nobles, and with the charge of the military archives of the country. Next in scenic order to the marine, comes the gallego (water-carrier) : a class of people so much extolled by many of our countrymen who have visited Lisbon, for their great honesty and general GALLEGOS. 5 good character. Had this eulogy been attempted in any other manner than by drawing comparisons betwixt them and the lower orders of Portuguese, I should have said nothing to the contrary ; but as it has been done to the great injury and depre ciation of the latter, I shall endeavour to shew, that if the Portuguese rabble have their vices, they are not likely to improve by the importation of their Gallician neighbours, who are perhaps less squeamish in the commission of enormous crimes than the natives themselves.

Lest I should be suspected of saying this, merely for the sake of contradicting those who have lauded them to the skies, I shall proceed to cite a few instances in support of what I have advanced, and shall more over shew that the humility which they all exhibit in public, even when insulted and maltreated, is nothing more than the effect of their servile occu pations, and that they are in reality as vindictive and as choleric in their temperament as most in habitants of warm climates. They have been described as executing with unequalled fidelity and exactness, whatever busi ness they may be employed in : I agree perfectly with their eulogists, and will add that they are very devout catholics. A gallego was sent for by a fidalgo, who aware GALLEGOS, of his fidelity, unburthened his mind to him by saying that a certain individual was obnoxious to him.

The good-natured gallego understood the hint ; the price agreed upon was a moidore ; and Senhor Mendez declared that his excellency's enemy should not witness the setting of the sun. The fidalgo rose from his seat, embraced his Gal lician friend with rapture, and insisted on his partaking of some " vacca com arros" on which he was just dining. Mendez recoiled with horror at the proposition, and exclaimed, " Your excellency little knows my principles if he conceives me capable of eating beef on a Friday." I was walking one day through the Largo do Corpo Santo, and observed a multitude of people stopping their noses with their handkerchiefs, and looking towards a corner house, under the windows of which the police had placed a line of burning pitch barrels, with a view of purifying the air, which was strongly impregnated with the miasma arising from the carcase of an unfortunate foreign charlatan, the soi-disant Baron de R. It appeared that his faithful gallego, together with a soldier of the regiment, had been employed to murder him for the moderate price of about a pound sterling each.

They were soon detected, and as soon liberated, by the interest of a female OR WATER-CARRIERS. 7 relation of the latter, who was a kept mistress of the confessor to the family. A few years previous to the organization of the police cavalry and infantry by the Count de No vion, (an officer of great merit, and who is at this moment living in a corner of Brittany, neglected by those of whom he deserves a better recom pense) the number of atrocities committed at all hours of the day elicited an order of government, prohibiting the carrying about any species of arms, and empowering the civil patrols to stop and consider as murderers any who should be found to infringe this law. An unfortunate man of good family, returning home from playing a rubber of cacino, had, owing to the loneliness of his road, provided himself with a rapier, which he took care to hide under his capote.

He had proceeded about half way, when he was attacked by one of those pests of the Lis bon streets, a large dog. He naturally drew his sword in self-defence, and sheathed it in his ene my's entrails. At that unlucky moment, the pa trol appeared at the corner of the street ; and the gentleman, apprehending the consequences of being found with arms upon him, hastened to conceal himself. The guardians of the night, observing one who had the appearance of wishing to GALLEGOS, avoid them, followed him quickly; upon which he slunk into a corridor, groped about in the dark, and ascended the staircase to the first floor, where he found a door upon the jar which gave way at his touch. Extreme fear prompted him to enter the room and conceal himself in a corner of it. In the meanwhile the patrol had provided them selves with a lanthorn and followed his footsteps to his hiding place, where to their mutual horror, and to his utter consternation, a murdered woman was discovered in bed in a corner of the room.