Three years' wanderings in the Northern Provinces of China, including a visit to the tea, silk, and cotton countries: with an account of the agriculture and horticulture of the Chinese, new plants, etc

Front matter

THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS IN THE NORTHERN PROVINCES or CHINA. London : SrorriswooDE arid Shaw, New -street- Square. l'a,Vi:;«n.lith,:t'0w9.""»"- WANDERINGS IS (C M 1 1 A, A CHINESE MARRIAGE PROCESSION. THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS JN THE NORTHERN PROVINCES OF CHINA, INCLUDING A VISIT TO THE TEA, SILK, AND COTTON COUNTRIES: WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE AGRICULTURE AND HORTICULTURE OF THE CHINESE, NEW PLANTS. ETC. BT ROBERT FORTUNE, BOTANICAL COLLECTOR TO THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF LONDON ffiXaitt) IllujStrattunii. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1847. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Introduction. — Erroneous Notions regarding China. — No correct Sources of Information. — Information gleaned from the Chinese not to be depended upon. — Imaginative Powers of Authors on China. — Peculiar Traits in the Character of the Chinese. — Remarks on Agriculture and Soil. — On Government and Laws. — China has been retrograding for many Tears. — My own Experience Page 1

Chapter II

First View of China and the Impressions produced. — Contrasted with Java. — Land at Hong-kong. — Description of its Harbour. — Town of Victoria. — Chinese Towns, Stanley and Aberdeen. — Description of the Island. — Effects of Rains. — " Happy Valley " noticed. — Chinese mode of " Stopping the Supplies." — Views from the tops of Mountains. — Climate. — Botany of the Island. — Few Animals indigenous. — Unhealthiness of the Settlement. — Its Causes. — Character ofthe Chinese Population. — Mixed Character of Foreigners. — Remarks on the Settlement as a Place of Trade - - - - - - 12

Chapter III

Leave Hong-kong for Amoy. — Opium Station at Namoa. ■ — Liberty the English enjoy there. — Chinese Population, and their Modes of living. — A new Admiral makes new Laws. — Cherry Brandy alters his Views. — The Account which, as in Duty bound, he sends to Peking. — Natural Tunnel through Chaple Island. — Amoy. — Remarks on its Trade. — Travels in the Country among.-t the People. — The want of a Tail. — The Hills. — Island of Koo-lung-soo. — Effects of War. — Strange Rocks. — Unhealthy Nature of A CONTENTS. the Island. — Botany and Birds. — Visit to one of the Chief Mandarins. — His House and Grounds - Page 30

Chapter IV

Leave Amoy. — Gale in the Formosa Channel. — Driven back to Chimoo. — Chimoo Bay. — Chinese Mode of paying Taxes. — Character of the Natives. — Journey to the Hills. — Chimoo Pagoda. — Interesting Scenery. — Attacked and robbed. — My Servant's Opinion of the State of Matters. — Get back in safety to the Shore. — Novel Mode of crossing the wet Sands. — New Plants found. — The Bay of Chinchew - - - - - - 48

Chapter V

Land at Chusan. — Description of the Island. — Town of Tinghae. — Agriculture. — Staple Productions. — Hemp Plants. — Palm of which Ropes are made Trefoil cultivated for Manure. — Oil Plant. — Flora. — Hills covered with Azaleas, etc. — The Tallow Tree. — Green Tea Shrub. — Bamboos and other Trees. — Fruits. — Yang Mai and Kum-quat. — Inhabitants and Shops in Tinghae. — English Names on Shop Doors. — A new Language. — Mode of classing Foreigners. — Diseases of the Eye common. — Salt-making. — Method of preparing the Vegetable Tallow. — Mode of hatching Eggs by artificial Heat - - 61

Chapter VI

First Visit to Ning-po. — The Bridge of Boats. — City and Pagoda. — Medical Missionary. — Temperature Chinese Mode of keeping themselves warm. — Charcoal Stoves. My Lodgings. — Chinese Gamblers Description of Shops. — Silks and Embroidery. — Jade Stone. — Cotton Printing. — Rope making. — Curiosity Shops and Contents " Furniture Street" and Furniture. — Banking Establishment. No prospect of Foreign Trade. — Temples, and Devotion of some of the People. — Dwarfed Trees. — Mode of Dwarfing explained. — Mandarins' Gardens visited and described. View from Northern Hills.— Agriculture. — Native Flora of these Hills. — Graves of the dead. — Coffins exposed - CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VII

, Remarks on the Chinese Language. — Ice-houses near Ningpo described. — Their Simplicity and Utility Novel Modes of Fishing. — Fishing Cormorants met with. — Their Actions described. — Two pairs purchased. — Account of their Food and Habits - Page 103 CHAPTER VIH. Shanghae visited at the end of 1843. — My Lodgings. — Prejudices and Superstitions of the Inhabitants. — The City described. — Shops and Merchandise. — Food. — An important Station for foreign Trade. — The Exports of the Country; Teas and Silk easily brought to it. — The adjacent Country described. — Its Canals — Agriculture. — Tombs of the Dead. — Trees and Shrubs. — Gardens and Nurseries. — Difficulty of access to them. — Cunning and Deceit of the Chinese. — A Chinese Dinner. — Theatricals - 115

Chapter IX

Return to the South of China. — The Canton River described. — Forts at the Bocca Tigris. — Productions of the Country. — The "Sighing" Willow. — Cultivation ofthe Nelumbium. — Boats on the River. — The Barber's Boat, &c. — Splendour of the Flower Boats. — Appearance of the River at Festivals. — Order which prevails in this floating City. Houses built over Water. — Chinese Dexterity in swimming and diving.^ — Fa-tee Gardens. — Their Plants. — Old Aching gets a bad Name because his Seeds do not grow. — He does not deserve it. — Advice to the Buyers of Seeds. — English and American Public Gardens at Canton. — Chinese New Year. — Attacked and robbed by the Chinese. — A subsequent Attack made upon some Officers of the English Government. — Their Letter to Her Majesty's Consul 143

Chapter X

Visit tothe Ning-po Green Tea District. — Mountain travelling Chair. — The Budhist Temple of Tein-tung. — Scenery around the Temple. — Traditional History communicated by the Priest. — The Temple and its Idols. — Invitation to X CONTENTS. Dinner with the Priests. — First Trial with Chopsticks. — Politeness ! of the Chiuese. — Usual Dinner Company. — My Bed. — Devotions of the Priests. — Wild Boar Hunt. — Narrow Escape. — Mode of frightening the Animals from the Bamboo Plantations. — Mountain Scenery. — Budhist Temple of Ah-yu-Wang. — Poo-to-san, or the Worshipping Island. — Its Temples and Idols. — Bronze Gods. — Trees and Shrubs. — Gardens and pet Plants of the Priests. — Sale of Gods or Josses. — Offerings to the' Gods in Shanghae and Ning-po. — Processions in Honour of the Gods. — Christian Missions. — Medical Missionary Society. g— Roman Catholics ... - Page 166

Chapter XI

The Tea-plant of China. — The Species found in the Green and Black Tea Districts. — Best Situation for Tea Plantations. — Remarks on their Management. — Seasons, and Method, of gathering the Leaves. — Manufacture of Tea. — Cottages amongst the Tea Hills. — Furnaces aud Drying Pans. — First Application of Heat. — Rolling Process. — Exposure of the Leaves to the Air. — Second Heating. — Length of Time required. — Two kinds of Tea. — Difference in the Manufacture of each. — Selecting and packing Teas. — Appearance and Colour of the Leaf. — Peculiar Taste of Foreigners for Dyed Teas. — Good Sense of the Chinese. — Tea Merchants. — Their Visits to the Tea Hills. —Mode of buying from the small Growers. — Black Tea District in Fokien. — Teas divided into two Kinds. — Peculiar Method of preparing each. — Cause of their difference in Colour. — Flowers used in scenting the finer Teas. — Sir John Francis Davis's Remarks on different kinds of Teas sold at Canton - - - - - - 197

Chapter XII

Chusan Archipelago. — Storm in a small Boat. — Nearly upset. — Kin-tang, or Silver Island. — Its Inhabitants. — Their Surprise on seeing a Foreigner. — Yang-tse-kiang River. — Its numerous Sand Banks. — Our Schooner aground. Novel Method of getting Assistance from the Chinese. CONTENTS. XI Village of Woo-sung. — Opium Station.. — Remarks on the Opium Trade. — Its Effects upon the Chinese - Page 225

Chapter XIII

Shanghae in 1844. — Its Gardens and Plants. — Start for the Hills in the Interior. — Canals and Bridges. — Adventure with my Pony. — The " Tein-ching," or Blue Dye, found. — Hills and thetr Vegetation described The Surprise of the Natives on seeing a Foreigner. — Their Curiosity, and Honesty ! — Plants sent to England. — Another Journey into the Interior. — Some large Northern Cities noticed. — A midnight Visit from Thieves. — The far-famed City of Soo-chow-fpo visited. — A Description of it. — New Plants found. — Central Position of Soo-chow as a Place of Trade. — Baths for the Million. — Return to Shanghae - ,242

Chapter XIV

Chinese Cotton Cultivation. — Yellow Cotton. — District where it grows. — Cotton Country described. — Soil. — Manure, and Mode of Application. — Preceding Crops. — Time of sowing. — Method. — Rains. — Summer Cultivation. — Early Rain advantageous. — Time of reaping and gathering. Cotton Farmers and their Families. — Drying and cleaning Process described. — Marketing. — Independence of the Seller. — Crowded Streets in Shanghae during the Cotton Season. — Warehouses and Packing. — Home Consumption. — Stalks used for Fuel .... 264

Chapter XV

Climate of China. — Summer and Winter. — Temperature of Hong-kong — of Shanghae. — Monsoons. — Typhoons. — Signs of their Approach. — Description of a Typhoon witnessed by the Author. — Effect produced upon Vegetation. — Rains. — Wet and dry Seasons. — Meteorological Table - - - - 276

Chapter XVI

Chinese Agriculture. — Exaggerated Statements regarding its Advancement. — Soil of the Hills. — Tea Land Soil of CONTENTS. XII the Plains. — Summer Crops. — Rice and its Cultivation. — Chinese Plough and Harrow. — Number of Crops produced. — Method of obtaining two Crops of Rice in Summer in the Province of Chekiang. — Rice Harvest. — Terrace Cultivation described. — The Tein-ching Plant, from which the Northern Indigo is obtained. — Summer Hill Crops. — Cultivation of sweet Potatoes. — Earth Nuts. — Winter Crops. — Celebrated Shan-tung Cabbage. — Oil Plant. — Wheat, Barley, etc. — Ripening of Winter Crops. — Manures Two Plants cultivated for this Purpose. — Their Cultivation and Mode of Application. — A Manure for mixing with Seeds. — Its Utility. — Other Manures in common use. — Manure Tanks. — Night Soil and Urine. — Mode of Application. — Succession and Rotation of Crops Page 290

Chapter XVII

Return to Chusan. — Its supposed Unhealthiness. — Mortality amongst the Queen's Troops when first stationed there. — Subsequent Salubrity. — Its Advantages over Hong-kong as a British Settlement. — New Plants found on the Island. — Ning-po. — Gardens of the Mandarins. — Manners of Chinese Ladies. — Sail for Hong-kong. — Tombs of the Chinese. — Situations supposed to be the best. — Soothsayers employed. — Their Methods of working on the Minds of the People. — Mr. Lay consulted as to the best Site for a Grave. — Inscriptions on the Tombs. — Periodical Visits to them by Relatives. — Different Modes of Interment. — Coffins exposed in the Fields. — Kept in Houses. — Tombs near Sung-kiang-foo. — Favourite Flowers for planting on the Graves - 314

Chapter XVIII

Plants shipped for England. — Sail for Manila. — Natural Productions and Exports, — Passport Annoyances. — The Interior of Luzon. — Its Laguna. — Early Morning in the Philippines. — Valuable Plants procured. — The " Queen of Orchids." — Natural Habits of Air-Plants. — Lawless Banditti of the Interior. — A false Alarm Monkeys more harmless than Men. — A Night at Dolores with the Padre. CONTENTS. XIII Volcanoes in the Philippines. — General Appearance of the Country. — Leeches not very agreeable Companio"DS. — Return to Manila and ship Plants for England Sail for the north of China. — -'A Man overboard." — His Recovery by a gallant Boat's Crew. — Arrive in the North Page 332

Chapter XIX

Spring in the north of China. — New Flowers. — Journey through the Country. — Motley Group of Fellow Passengers. — A Morning Scene in a Chinese Junk. — Tartar City of Chapoo. — Shops and Trade. — Crowds of People. — A Visit to the Mandarins. — A free Passage onward offered Their Object in this. — Means taken to thwart them. — Leave Chapoo for Shanghae. — Country and Town of Ping-hoo. — Silk Districts visited. — Cultivation of the Mulberry. — Management of the Silkworm. — Arrival at Shanghae. — Consul's Letter enclosing one from the Taoutae, or Head Mandarin A most satisfactory Reply ! - - 346

Chapter XX

Sail for Foo-chow-foo on the River Min. — Novel Mode of engaging a Pilot. — Entrance to the River. — Scenery on its Banks. -3- Bridge of Foo-chow-foo. — Chinese Chairmen. — Insults received from the Natives. — City and Suburbs. — Native Trade. — Fishing Cormorants. — Bank Notes. — Character of the Natives. — The Ladies and their fondness for Flowers. — Population. — Remarks on Foo-chow-foo as a Place of foreign Trade. — Government Spies. — Gardens and Nurseries. — Deceit of the Mandarins. — Leave Foo-chow-foo for the Tea Hills. — Mountain Scenery described. — Black Tea Districts. — Flora of the Hills. — Agriculture of the District. — Native Fruit. — Climate and Temperature 364

Chapter XXI

Engage a Passage in a Junk. — Leave the District of the Min. — An Attack of Fever. — Religious Ceremonies on Board the Junk. — Attacked by Pirates. — Scene on Board. — CONTENTS. Cowardice of the Chinese. — Pirates beat off. — Gratitude of the Crew. — A safe Anchorage ! — Another Fleet of Pirates. — Attack, and Results. — Arrive at Chusan. — Ingratitude of the Crew. — Mode of making thern keep their Word. — Kindness of foreign Residents at Shanghae. — Large Peaches. — Collections packed. — Leave the north of China. — Sail for England. — Arrival in the Thames. — Conclusion ------ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. The City of Foo-chow-foo and Long Bridge To face Title 2. Marriage Procession - - - - Title 3. Map ----- to face Page 1 4. City of Ningpo — Bridge of Boats - - - 82 5. Old Pagoda in Ningpo - - - - 84 6.

Ice Houses - - - - - - 105 7. River at Shanghae ----- 121 8. Mountain Chair - - - - - 167 9. Pans for drying the Tea .... 206 10. Bamboo Table for rolling Tea - - 207 11. Opium Pipe - - - - - - 241 12. Water-wheel on the Island of Chusan - - 300 13. Chusan Tombs ----- 316 14. Tomb of a Mandarin's Wife - - - 331 15. Pagoda on the River Mn .... 383 16. Anemone on the Tombs - 406 17. Chinese Funeral and Family Tomb - - at the end. EngjravedtjrJ. SL-C.W .... .... .", THREE YEARS' WANDERINGS ns CHINA.