Residence among the Chinese : inland, on the coast, and at sea ; Being a narrative of scenes and adventures during a third visit to China, from 1853 t

Front matter

A RESIDENCE

AMONG

THE CHINESE

Preface

It is now nearly fourteen years since I landed in China for the first time, in the capacity of Botanical Collector to the Horticultural Society of London. From 1848 to the beginning of 1851 I was engaged by the Honourable Court of Directors of the East India Company in procuring supplies of tea-plants, seeds, implements, and green-tea makers, for the government plantations in the Himalayas. In the end of 1852 I was deputed a second time by the East India Company for the purpose of adding to the collections already formed, and particularly of procuring some first-rate black-tea makers for the experimental tea- farms in India.

The present volume gives an account of my last travels amongst the Chinese — from 1852 to 1856 — which it is hoped will be found as interesting as my former ‘Three Years’ Wanderings,’ and ‘ Journey to the Tea Countries.’

During my first visit my investigations were chiefly confined to the coast near the five ports at which foreigners are permitted to trade. In my second book I described some long journeys to the green and black tea countries ; and in this one I have endeavoured to give the reader a minute account of some extensive districts of country

VI

PREFACE.

which lie between the coast-line and the points formerly reached. For the talented sketches which illustrate the work I am indebted to my friend Mr. Scarth.

In keeping a journal of the ever-varying scenes which passed daily in review before me, I have not been unmindful of a friendly hint which I received from some reviewers of my former works. I have, therefore, endeavoured to describe more minutely the characters, manners, and customs of the Chinese in those districts in which I lived for a length of time almost like one of themselves. And with regard to this part of the performance I can only say that the figures on my canvas are such as I daily met with in the course of my travels, and are true to nature. The reader is left to draw his own conclusions ; but it is hoped that those who have been inclined to form their estimate of the Chinese character from what has been written about the low rabble of Canton, will, after the perusal of these pages, look with a more favourable eye upon the inhabitants of China when seen from other points of view.

The natural productions of the country which came under my notice, whether simply ornamental in their character, or articles of commercial value, have been fully described. During a sojourn of some months in the heart of the great silk country I had an opportunity of seeing the cultivation of the mulberry, the feeding and rearing of the silk-worms, and the reeling of the silk ; and these in-

PREFACE.

vii

teresting operations are now described, I believe, for tbe first time by an English eye-witness.

The concluding chapter gives the author’s views upon the lgte disturbances at Canton. It shows how these might have been avoided, and suggests a line of policy by which our future relations with the Chinese may be placed on a more firm and satisfactory basis. These suggestions are of importance, not to England only, but to all civilized nations in the West who trade with China, or who may be interested in her future welfare and progress.

The remarks on the climate of China, with reference to the health of our troops, are the results of long experience, and, in the event of our going to war with that country, ought to be carefully considered by those who have the direction of the expedition.

Having thus given a general idea of the scope of the work, I have only to express a hope that, while it may add to our knowledge of the people and productions of China, it may, at the same time, enable us to look with more kindly feelings on a large portion of the human family, far more ancient as a nation, and as industrious, if not so civilized, as ourselves.

Brompton, April, 1857.

Chapter I

Arrival at Shanghae — Kindness of Mr. Beale — An earthquake — ■ Chinese superstitions — Hairs said to come out of the ground — An examination and the result — Reports of a sunken village — Preparations to visit it — Contradictory statements — The truth at last ! — The Chinese rebellion — Its rise and progress — Taking of Nanking— -Alarm at Shanghae — Means taken for protection — Taoutai’s request for foreign aid — Sir George Bonham proceeds to Nanking — Arrogance of the insurgents — War-vessels of America and France visit them — The religion of the insurgents fanaticism — An extraordinary official statement — Future prospects as regards Christianity Page 1

Chapter II

Objects in visiting China — My boat and boatmen — A groundless alarm — Chinese pilgrims — Chair-bearers — Road to Ayuka's temple — Crowds by the way — Shyness of ladies — Description of scenery — Wild flowers — Tea-farms — Approaches to temple - — Ancient tree — Hawkers and their stalls — Scene in temple — Visit to high priest — Shay-le or precious relic — Its history and traditions — A picnic — Character of the people for sobriety — An evening stroll — The temple at night — Huge idols — Queen of Heaven and child — Superstitions of Chinese women . . 22

Chapter III

Tea-gatherers and their wages — Food of Chinese labourers compared with the food of the same class in England — Old city of Tse-kee — Streets and shops — Market — Mode of skinning frogs

X

CONTENTS.

— Temple on hill and fine scenery — Lake near north gate — Temples and priests — My servant’s mode of answering questions — Chesnut-trees discovered — Introduced to India — Chinese tombs and ceremonies — A widow comes to worship — Beggars and coffins — Different customs in different countries — Reflections Page 41

CHAPTER IY.

Entomology — Chinese ideas respecting my collections — My sanity doubtful — Mode of employing natives to assist me — A scene on returning to my boat — Curious tree — Visit from a mandarin— An endeavour to explain my objects in making collections of natural history — Crowds of natives — Their quietness and civility — Return mandarin’s visit — My reception — Example of Chinese politeness — Our conversation — Inquisitiveness of his ladies and its consequences — Beauty of ladies at Tse-kee — Our luncheon and adieu 59

CHAPTER Y.

Visit a collector of ancient works of art — His house and garden — Inspect his collections of old crackle china and other vases, &c. — Fondness of Chinese for their own ancient works of art — Description of ancient porcelain most prized by them — Ancient enamels — Foo chow enamels — Jade-stone — Rock crystal — Magnetic iron and other minerals — Gold-stone — Red lacquer and gold japan — Porcelain bottles found in Egyptian tombs — Found also in China at the present day — Age of these — Mr. Medhurst’s remarks 78

CHAPTER YI.

Boat- travelling — Unsettled state of the country — A midnight alarm — Old quarters at Tein-tung — A good Buddhist priest — Chinese farmers — Their wives and families — Chinese women’s passion, and its effects — Woman’s curse — The author is seized with fever — A native doctor and his mode of treatment — Method of taking honey from bees — Mosquito tobacco — Its composition and manufacture 93

CONTENTS.

xi

CHAPTER VII.

Difficulty in procuring black-tea manufacturers — Return to Shanghae — City taken by a band of rebels — Chief magistrate murdered— Strange prejudices of foreign residents — Their professions of neutrality — Chinese warfare — Dr. Lockhart’s hospital and patients — Value of medical missions — Public opinion changes — Shanghae evacuated by the rebels — Entered by the - Imperialists — Cruelty of soldiers — • Effects of the rebellion on the face of the country Page 116

CHAPTEE VIII.

Return to the tea-districts of Chekiang — Mode of making collections of seeds amongst Chinese peasantry — Messengers sent to Moo-yuen and Ping-shuy — Ping-shuy teas — Agricultural and Horticultural Society of India — Varnish-tree- — Wax-insect tree — Soap-tree — Death and funeral of a Buddhist priest — New blue dye — • Its cultivation and manufacture — “ Green indigo ” — Its introduction to India and Europe 142

CHAPTER IX.

Journey to the Snowy Valley and waterfalls- — Kong-k‘how pagoda — Adventure with a blind man — Elaborate carving — A new acquaintance, Mr. Achang — Iron-ore — Mountain stream — Its rafts and cormorants — The temple of the Snowy Valley — Description of the falls — Our dinner and guests — How Mr. Achang enjoys it — His lecture on medical botany and lucky spots for graves — A Buddhist recluse — Continue our journey across the mountains — Natural productions — Pine variety of bamboo — Its introduction to India — Romantic glen — Arrive at our boats and bid adieu to Mr. Achang 171

CHAPTER X.

Collections shipped for India — Success attending this year’s importations— Visit Canton — Method of scenting teas described

CONTENTS.

xii

— Flowers used in the operation — Their scientific and Chinese names — Their relative value — Prices paid for them — Manufacture of “ caper ” described — Inferior ditto — “ Lie capers ” — Orange pekoe — High character of foreign merchants in China — Howqua’s garden described — Its plants, ornamental doors, and alcoves, &c. — Polite notices to visitors worthy of imitation Page 195

CHAPTER XI.

Visit the port of Foo-chow-foo — Its foreign trade — The advantages and disadvantages of the port — Steamer “ Confucius ” — Sail for Formosa — An amateur watch kept — Sea-sickness of mandarins — Appearance of Formosa from sea — Land on the island — Rice-paper plant — The natives — Productions of the island — Suggestions to the navy in these seas — Sail for Shanghae — Spring and spring flowers 219

CHAPTER XII.

Return to Chekiang — A journey to the interior — Chinese country fair — Small feet of women — How formed, and the results — Stalls at the fair — Ancient porcelain seal same as found in the bogs of Ireland — Theatricals — Chinese actors — Natural productions of the country — Liliaceous medicinal plant — “Cold water temple” — Start for Tsan-tsin — Mountain scenery and productions — Astonishment of the people — A little boy’s opinion of my habits 245

CHAPTER XIII.

A dinner audience — Adventure with a priest — Sanatarium for Ningpo missionaries and others — Abies Ksempferi — Journey to Quan-ting — Bamboo woods and their value — Magnificent scenery — Natives of Poo-in-chee — Golden bell at Quan-ting — Chinese traditions — Cold of the mountains — Journey with Mr. Wang — A disappointment — Adventure with pirates — Strange but satisfactory signal — Results 268

CONTENTS.

xm

CHAPTER XI Y.

Season’s collections shipped for India — Ancient porcelain vase — Chinese dealers — Joined by two friends — Inland journey — City of Yu-yaou — Fine rice district — Appearance and conduct of natives — Laughable occurrence with an avaricious boatman — Soil and rocks of district — Village of Ne-ka-loo and Chinese inn — Shores of the bay of Hang-chow — Salt and its manufacture — Curious moonlight journey — Rapid tides — Passage junk — Voyage across the bay — Chinese sailors — Arrive at Kan-poo Page 294

CHAPTER XV.

The Tsien-tang river — Its eagre or “bore” — Appearance it presents — - Effects it produces — Superstitions of the natives — City of Kan-poo — Mentioned by Marco Polo — Its decay as a maritime port — Another source of wealth — Its inhabitants — Village of Luh-le-heen — Engage canal boats — Pass through borders of silk country — City of Yuen-hwa— Supposed emporium for “ Yuen -fa ” silk — Geology of isolated hills — City of Ping-hoo — Way to manage Chinese crowds — Shops and gardens — A dangerous position — Arrive at Shanghae . . .. 316

CHAPTER XVI.

Leave Shanghae for the silk country — -Melancholy results of the Shanghae rebellion — Country and productions about Cading — Indigo and safflower — Bamboo paper-making — Insects — Lakes and marshy country — Visit the town of Nan-tsin in the silk districts — Its shops and inhabitants — Producers of raw silk and silk merchants — Description of silk country — Soil — Method of cultivating the mulberry — Valuable varieties — Increased by grafting and not by seeds — Method of gathering the leaves — Hills near Hoo-chow-foo — Temples and priests .. .. 331

CHAPTER XVII.

Enter the city of Hoo-chow-foo — Chinese crowds — Description of the city — Richness of the shops — Fans and silks — Rich dresses of the people — Raw silk and hongs — Flowered crapes

XIV

CONTENTS.

— Chinese play and audience — How I perform my part ! — Leave the city — Charming scenes in the country — Thrown silk — Silk villages and their inhabitants — Temple of Wan-shew-si and its priests — Taou-chang-shan pagoda — Glorious views from the pagoda hill Page 350

CHAPTER XVIII.

Ascend the Lun-ke river — A musical Buddhist high priest — Hooshan monastery — Its silk -worms — Mode of feeding them — General treatment — Their aversion to noise and bright light — The country embanked in all directions — A farmer’s explanation of this — Town of Mei-che — Silk -worms begin to spin — Method of putting them on straw — Artificial heat employed — Reeling process — Machine described — Work-people — Silk scenes in a monastery — Industrious Buddhist priests — Novel mode of catching fish — End of silk season — Price of raw silk where it is produced 365

CHAPTER XIX.

Leave the silk country — Adventure at Nanziang — A visit from thieves — I am robbed of everything — Unsuccessful efforts to trace the robbers — Astonished by another visit from them — Its objects — My clothes and papers returned — Their motives for this — A visit to the Nanziang mandarin — ~ Means taken to catch the robbers — Two are caught and bambooed — My visit to the mandarin returned — Arrive at Shanghae — Report the robbery to Her Majesty’s Consul — A portion of the money recovered — The remainder supposed to be kept by the mandarins 379

CHAPTER XX.

Tea-makers from Fokien and Kiangse engaged for India — Ning-chow tea country — Formerly produced green teas — Now produces black — How this change took place — Difficulty in getting the men off — One of them arrested for debt — All on board at last and sent on to Calcutta — Coast infested with pirates — Ningpo missionaries robbed — Politeness of the pirates — Their

CONTENTS.

xv rendezvous discovered — Attacked and destroyed by the ‘ Bittern ’ — A mandarin in difficulty — The English “ don’t fight fair ” — Liberality of the Chinese and English merchants — Captain Vansittart’s reward Page 392

CHAPTER XXL

Return to the interior — Curious superstition — Adventures with a priest — Journey in search of new trees — Mountain scenery — New Rhododendron — Valley of the Nine Stones — Fine trees — Yew and golden pine — Curiosity of the natives — A dark and stormy night — We lose ourselves amongst the mountains — Seek shelter in a hut — Alarm of the inmates — Morning after the storm — Return to Ningpo — A fine new plant discovered — Adieu to the north of China — Engage scented-tea makers, &c., at Canton — Sail for India — Complimentary letter from Lord Dalhousie — Ordered to visit the tea-plantations in the Himalayas and Punjab — Return to England 405

CHAPTER XXII.

ON THE PRESENT WAR.

Dispute with the Chinese about the lorcha “ Arrow ” — Lorchas and their crews — Abuse of the English flag — Right of entrance into the city of Canton — The Chinese outwit us in diplomacy — True causes of our position in Canton — We have ourselves to blame — The policy which ought to be pursued — The city of Canton must be opened — Foolish restrictions on foreigners and their trade ought to be abolished — Direct communication with the court of Peking — Method of carrying out these views — Remarks on the climate with reference to the health of our troops — Conclusion 423

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

1. Method of making “ Caper ” Tea Frontispiece.

2. Boats used on the rivers in China 22

3. Ladies and Children on a Pilgrimage to Ayuka’s Temple . . 25

4. Bemarkable Tree 65

5. Curious pilgrim-shaped Bottle, enamelled with butterflies 79

6. Porcelain Vase enamelled with figures of animals and plants 81

7. Yase of sea-green crackle 84

8. Oviform Bottle of rare turquoise colour 85

9. Gourd-shaped Bottle of yellowish stone -colour crackle .. 85

10. Ancient porcelain vessel 87

11. Ancient Yase enamelled on metal 88

12. Bottle, same as found in Egyptian tombs 92

13. Rain Cloak — Hemp palm 145

14. Wax Tree 147

15. Tea-Picker — Canton 207

16. Foo-chow Countrywoman 249

17. Ancient porcelain Seals 254

18. Larch Tree ' 274

19. Yiew on the Grand Canal, with mulberry trees on its banks 339

20. Mulberry Tree 345

21. Mulberry Tree 347

22. Curious method of Fishing 375

THE CHINESE:

INLAND, ON THE COAST, AND AT SEA.

Chapter I

Arrival at Shanghae — Kindness of Mr. Beale — An earthquake — Chinese superstitions — Hairs said to come ont of the ground — An examination and the result — Reports of a sunken village — Preparations to visit it — Contradictory statements — The truth at last ! — The Chinese rebellion — Its rise and progress — Taking of Nanking — Alarm at Shanghae — Means taken for protection — Taoutai’s request for foreign aid — Sir George Bonham proceeds to Nanking — Arrogance of the insurgents — War- vessels of America and France visit them — The religion of the insurgents fanaticism — An extraordinary official statement — Future prospects as regards Christianity.

On the 14th of March, 1853, the Peninsular and Oriental steam-ship “ Ganges,” in which I was a passenger, sailed from Hong-kong for the port of Shanghae — the most northerly of the five at which foreigners are permitted to trade. The wind for the most part of the way was “ right a-head,” and sometimes it blew almost a gale ; but the good ship, being powerful for her size, and well found in everything, ploughed the ocean “ like a thing of life,” and notwithstanding head winds and heavy seas we anchored in the Shanghae river four days

B

AN EARTHQUAKE.

Chap. I

after leaving Hong-kong, having run in that time somewhere about nine hundred miles.

As on former occasions, I determined to make this port my head-quarters during my travels in the interior owing to the facilities it afforded for the despatch of my collections to India or to England. I was lucky enough to find my friend Mr. Beale, to whom I was so much indebted during my former “ journey to the tea districts,” still in Shanghae, and as kind and hospitable as ever. He again invited me to make his house my home whenever I should visit this port, an invitation of which I availed myself frequently during the three years I have been in the country. His large and interesting garden I found of the greatest value, as in it I could store my various collections until an opportunity occurred of having them shipped for their destination.

During the few days of my stay in Shanghae I experienced for the first time in my life the shock of an earthquake, a phenomenon which is not unusual in this part of the world. It was about eleven o’clock at night, one of those beautiful nights which one finds only in the sunny lands of the East. The stars were shining brightly in the sky, but a slight haze seemed to spread itself over the ground and the river ; and the atmosphere, although perfectly calm, was warmer than is usual at this early period of the spring. I had been dining out, and had just returned home, and was sitting with Mr. Beale at the drawing-room fire.

Crap. I.

AN EARTHQUAKE.

In an instant I experienced an extraordinary and unaccountable sensation, which was perfectly new, and which I could neither understand nor explain. At the same moment the pheasants in the aviary began to scream, and the chandelier which hung from the ceiling swung slowly from side to side. “ It is an earthquake,” said Mr. Beale ; “ let us go out on the lawn in front of the house.” I confess I did not require a second bidding, but rushed out of the house forthwith. Mr. Beale, who seemed to have become accustomed to such things, quietly went to look for his hat in the lobby and then followed me. In the mean time his Excellency Sir George Bonham, her Majesty’s Plenipotentiary and Governor of Hong-kong, who was staying at this time with Mr. Beale, came down stairs, and all the other gentlemen in the house made their appearance also, most of them in their night-dresses, as they had retired to rest before the occurrence took place. All this happened in much less time than I take to write it. When we reached the lawn the ground seemed moving and swaying to and fro under our feet, and I experienced a slight sickening sensation not unlike sea-sickness. At the same time the whole scene was rendered more striking by the ringing of bells in the adjoining houses, the screams of birds, and the crash of a falling house as we thought, but which turned out afterwards to be a slimly-built wall . The first shock lasted for a few minutes only, but several were felt afterwards, although less severe than the first.

b 2

SUBTERRANEAN HAIRS.

Chap. 1.

When daylight dawned on the following morning it was found that the damage done was not very great. The wall I have already noticed had fallen, some beams in one of the houses had come through the ceiling, and a quantity of goods had tumbled down in one of the godowns. Most of the clocks had stopped, and some few lamps and glasses were broken, but upon the whole the damage done was very inconsiderable. Groups of Chinese were seen in the gardens, road-sides, and fields, engaged in gathering hairs which are said to make their appearance on the surface of the ground after an earthquake takes place. This proceeding attracted a great deal of attention from some of the foreign residents in Shanghae, and the Chinese were closely examined upon the subject. Most of them fully believed that these hairs made their appearance only after an earthquake had occurred, but could give no satisfactory explanation of the phenomenon, while some more wise than their neighbours did not hesitate to affirm that they belonged to some huge subterraneous animal whose slightest shake was sufficient to move the world.

I must confess, at the risk of being laughed at, that I was one of those who took an interest in this curious subject, and that I joined several groups who were searching for these hairs. In the course of my travels I have ever found it unwise to laugh at what I conceived to be the prejudices of a people simply because I could not understand them. In this instance, however, I must confess the

Chap. I.

CHINESE SUPERSTITION.

results were not worth the trouble I took. The hairs, such as I picked up, and such as were shown me by the Chinese, had certainly been produced above the earth and not below it. In some instances they might readily be traced to horses, dogs, and cats, while in others they were evidently of vegetable origin. The north-eastern part of China produces a very valuable tree known by the name of the liemp-palm, from the quantity of fibrous bracts it produces on the stem just under its blossoms. Many of these fibres were shown to me by the Chinese as a portion of the hairs in question ; and when I pointed out the source from which such had come, and which it was impossible to dispute, my friends laughed, and with true Chinese politeness acknowledged I was right, and yet I have no doubt they still held their former opinions concerning the origin of such hairs. The whole matter simply resolves itself into this, — if the hairs pointed out to me were the true ones, then such things may be gathered not only after earthquakes but at any other time. But if, after all, these were not the real things, and if some vegetable (I shall not say animal) production was formed, owing to the peculiar condition of the atmosphere and from other causes, I can ordy say that such production did not come under my observation.*

* During a recent visit to the north-west provinces of India, where earthquakes are not unfrequent, 1 could find no traditions such as that I have, alluded to.

A SUNKEN VILLAGE.

Chap. I.

A day or two after the earthquake took place a report was current amongst the natives that a large tract of ground, on which a populous village stood, had sunk down into the bowels of the earth, carrying with it the whole of the people, and that the spot was now marked by a large pool of water. This report was repeated to me in the country at a considerable distance from Shanghae, and seemed to be generally believed by the inhabitants. An old nursery-gardener, from whom I was in the habit of purchasing plants, informed me the village in question had been full of bad people, and that this was no doubt a judgment from heaven on account of their sins. I hinted that there might be some danger to his own property and to the city of Shanghae ; but the old man told me my fears were groundless.

Being anxious to verify the reports of the Chinese by a personal examination of the place, I determined to pay it a visit. Mr. Forbes, American Consul at Canton, and Mr. Shortrede, editor of the ‘ China Mail,’ agreed to accompany me. I had been told the spot was distant from Shanghae some thirty miles up the river, and in a south-westerly direction, but the more minute my inquiries were the greater difficulty I had in finding out the exact locality. In the mean time all our arrangements had been made except the hiring of boats, and we had agreed to start on the following morning. I had an excellent servant, a man who had travelled with me for several years, and whose

Chap. I.

A DISAPPOINTMENT.

duty it was to engage the boats we required for the journey. Before be left me for tbis purpose I desired him to take care the boatman knew the road, as it would never do to find out after we had started that no one knew which way to go. He left me on this mission, and was absent about two hours. When he returned he informed me that he had made the requisite inquiries about the sunken village, that such an occurrence had taken place, but instead of the spot being up the river we must go down in an opposite direction in order to find it. At the same time he told me candidly he did not think the boatman knew anything about the matter, and said I had better not go until something more satisfactory could be ascertained concerning it. I was reluctantly compelled to admit that his advice was good, and wrote to the others saying we had better put off the journey. And now it is worth while to mark the result of all this in order to get an idea of the extraordinary character of the people of China. A few days afterwards we were told with the greatest coolness, by the same parties who had formerly given the information about the sunken village, that “ it was quite true such an occurrence had taken place, but that it had happened about two hundred years

f ”

ago !

While these events were going forward the rebellion in the interior of the country was causing the greatest excitement, not only amongst the natives, but also amongst foreign residents. The

THE KEBELLION.

Chap. 1.

rebels were known as the Kwang-si men, as they belonged to the province of that name, which had been for several years in a state of great disorder. In 1850, three years before the time of which I write, a memorial, presented to the government by a number of gentlemen in the province, shows that fully two-thirds of it was overrun by robbers, who committed great violence upon the inhabitants. “ At the time the petition was written hundreds and thousands of fields were lying uncultivated ; the communications were in the hands of the outlaws, so that the supplies of government could not travel.” About the close of 1850 the well-known Commissioner Lin was summoned from his retirement in Fokieu in order to put down the insurgents, but he died on the way. Sundry other high officers, civil and military, were sent against them, but apparently with but little success. In August, 1851, Hung-sew-tseuen, subsequently known as Tai-ping-wang, seized Yung-ngan, a city of a subprefecture in the east of the province, and held it until April, 1852. The insurgent force, of which he was the chief, advancing slowly at first, then commenced its northern march by moving upon the provincial capital Kwei-lin. The rebels soon left this city behind them, and, after seizing and abandoning various places in the south of Hoo-nan, in the middle of December took Yohchau, a city on the river Yang-tse-kiang. Before the end of the month they had crossed this river, and stormed AYu -chang, the capital of Hu-peh ; then descending