Travels in the three great empires of Austria, Russia, and Turkey

Front matter

HUHCANLArr &TTJP§H]ES TRAVELS IN THE THREE GREAT EMPIRES <<1 AUSTRIA, RUSSIA, AND TURKEY. n\ C. B. ELLIOTT, MA. F.RS. VICAR OF GODALMIN ; (LATE OF THE BENGAL CIVIL SERVICE;) AND AUTHOR OF " LETTERS FROM THE NORTH OF EUROPE.' IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, tn (OrBttiarM to %a jjMajcgtp. 1838- LONDON: PRINTED RY SAMUEL BENTLEY, Dorset Stteet.Fieet Street. A VOYAGE DOWN THE DANUBE, WITH TRAVELS IN HUNGARY, WALLACHIA, MOLDAVIA, SOUTHERN RUSSIA. CRIM TARTARY, AND TURKEY IN EUROPE. T<< CHARLES ELLIOTT, ESQ. THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE DEDICATED AS A SMALL TRIBUTE OF FILIAL AFFECTION AND GRATITUDE, BY THE AUTHOR.

Preface

THE tour which forms the subject of the following pages was undertaken in search of health, when a complaint in the throat dis abled the author from fulfilling the duties of his profession. For some time after its con clusion, he entertained no intention of pub lishing his notes ; and now that he is in duced to do so, he labors under the disadvantage of absence from England, a second time caused by continued indisposition. Though these volumes be found to contain little that is new or erudite, the author will still indulge the hope that he has succeeded in gleaning 30?ne yew scattered grains of infor mation which have been overlooked by others : while in recording what he has heard and seen, it has been his anxious endeavour to

PREFACE.

. 10 exclude whatever could wound the most sen sitivedelicacy ; a task by no means easy for a writer who undertakes to describe the ha bits and manners of nations among whom morality is little estimated and purity of thought comparatively unknown. In the department of philology he has ha zarded a few conjectures. Where he has failed, his unsuccessful effort may lead to a happier result by directing the attention of others to the same subject. To avoid a frequent reference to self he has generally substituted, for the singular, the plural personal pronoun ; which, however, he was often enabled to use with a strict regard to accuracy, as, during half of his travels, it was his privilege to enjoy the society of one who, in sharing, enhanced all his pleasures. It is sometimes expected that the published pages of a traveller should record the names of all from whom he received kind attentions during his wanderings.

But gratitude is a sentiment which calls for little display ; and when an individual advancing no claim to rank above the respectable mediocrity of an

PREFACE.

. English gentleman publicly connects himself with those of the highest station in foreign countries by a reference to kindnesses for which he was indebted to the adventitious circum stances of travel, he may possibly be indulg ing, however unconsciously, a sentiment less noble than gratitude. Under this impression, the author has abstained from adverting to the courtesies and hospitality which he received, and from recording the names of such as conferred more important favors, unless in cases where the omission of the fact or the name would have affected the interest of his work : at the same time, he trusts that those who have laid him under obligations in the distant corners of the Ottoman dominions, in the civilized and uncivilized parts of the Rus sian empire, or in the more polished circles of Austria, will believe that their kindness has made an impression on his memory not easily to be effaced. PARIS, JUNE 1#, 1838. CONTENTS S'i THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I. Hungary

PRESBURG. Leave Vienna for Presburg. — Burial-ground. — German coach man. — Drag-chain of carriage. — Mode of harnessing third horse. — HainburgherBerg. — Noblemen's houses. — Frontier of Austria and Hungary. — Arms of the two kingdoms. — Dress of peasants. — Ancient Carnuntum. — First view of Presburg. — Fortress. — Pont volant. — Koenigsberg. — Posen. — Population. — Jews. — Schlossberg. — Church. — Statue by Donner. — Body of St. John. — Inscription. — Monument. — Libraries. — Sabbath festivities. — Cos tume. — Mustaches. — Personal appearance. — Anecdote. — Milk man's stool. — Palatine. — Diet — Election of deputies. — Growing influence of people. — Latin language. — Introduction of Hunga rian. — Count Wesseleni. — Objections to use of Hungarian. — Power of seigneurs. — Four courts of appeal. — Feudal system in Hungary. — Taxes on peasantry. — Urbarium. — Exactions from serfs. — Poor nobles. — Revenue. — Villes franches — Expression of public opinion — Anecdote p. 2i — 42.

Chapter II. Voyage On The Danube

FROM PRESBURG TO PEST. Steam navigation of the Danube. — Difficulties of undertaking. — Embark at Presburg. — Hungarian gentlemen. — Latin spoken. CONTENTS. — Pronunciation. — Introduction into Hungary. — Hungarian lin guists. — Carlsburg. — Insula Cituorum. — Sifting gold dust. — Comorn. — Neudorf. — Gran. — Royal tombs. — Archbishop. — Cathedral. — Vessigrad. — Castle. — Numerous branches of Danube. — Aspect of country. — W^ater-mills. — Watzen. — Cupolas. — Ar rival at Test. — Hungarian nobles. — Patriotism. — Union of Hun gary with Austria. — Pragmatic sanction. — Monarchy hereafter elective. — Indifference of emperor. — Metternich's policy — Exist ing matters of dispute. — Population of Austrian states. — Lutheran church. — Its parishes, clergy, and discipline. — Reformed church. — Roman Catholics. — Dignitaries. — Royal perquisites. — Empe ror's guard. — Word .HMSM?-. — Punishment of deserters. — Origin of Hungarians. — Magyar and Torok. — Wines. — Meat and poul try. — Coins. — Ducat. — First view of Pest. — Buda. — Roman relics. — Alt Buda. — Aquincum. — View . — Plain of Rokos. — Attila. — Hot springs. — Turkish baths. — Palace of palatine. — Hand of king Stephen. — His crown. — Cabinet of antiques. — Coins. — Luther's cup. — French standard. — Description of Buda. — Jew's quarter. — Reitzenstadt— Tobacco. — (nits. — Oxen. — Inscriptions on houses.— Test. — University. — Manufacture of pipe-bowls. — Projected iron bridge. — Tax to be levied on nobles. — LeveUing system. — Society for cultivation of Hungarian tongue. — Count Szechenyi. — First promoters of steam navigation of Danube. p. 43—69.

Chapter III. Voyage On The Danube

FROM PEST TO SEMLIN Embarkation on steamer. — Description of passengers. — Their behaviour and manners. — Want of delicacy.— Arrangements for night.— Csepel. — Tolna. — Anchor. — Course of Danube from Pest.— Word eoMH?y. — Counties of Hungary. — Province of Scla vonia. — Scenery. — Peasants at Tolna. — Dress. — Tobacco.— Its present consumption.— Reminiscences of India. — Mohacs— Erdut. —Anchor.— Scenery.— Stoppage for coals.— Courtesy of Hunga rian baron.— Gipsies.— Costume.— Resemblance of their language — Hindoostanee— Anecdote.— Sclavonia.— Origin of people.— CONTENTS.

Words 3/aue and servan?. — Ratze— Rutheni. — Groups on bank. — Water-carriers. — Illok. — Neusatz. — Peterwardein. — Roman colony and mine. — Market.— Fruit. — Fish. — Carlovich— Victory of prince Eugene. — General Brenna. — Hanoverian passenger. — Servian gazette. — The Theis — Unchahgeableness of features of nature. — Sands of Theis. — Mode of collecting gold. — Golden fleece. — Banat. — Derivation of name. — Military colonies. — Illy rians. — Inhabitants. — Country. — Climate. — Soil. — Temesvar. — Semlin. — Trade in wool. — The Save. — Boundary of Austria and Turkey. — Visit to Belgrade. — Quarantine. — Health Officers. — Turkish soldiers. — Mussulman sabbath. — Minaret and mosque. — Dilapidations. — Pasha's house. — Servants. - — Burial-ground. — Female's palanquin. — Games of soldiers. — Citizens. — Costume. — Words AfasAn and AfHMHJnian. — Females. — Morals. — Breaking in horses. — Bullocks. — Sakajees. — Filtering-stones. — Bazaar. — Shops. — Houses. — Chimneys— Sultan's seal. — Greek Church. — Archbishop's house. — New custom-house. — Cargoes of salt. — Visit to an Englishman. — Tamarisk. — Datura stramonium. — Leave Belgrade. — Watch-towers Carriage. — Flock of sheep. — Anec dote. — Government of Servia. — Czerni Georges. — Servia made a distinct principality under ?)Iilosch Obrenovich. — A constitution granted. — Enlightened views. — Prospects of Servia. p. 70—109.

Chapter IV. Voyage Ox The Danube

FROM SEMLIN TO ORSCHOVA. Leave Semlin.— Morning view of Belgrade — Course of Da nube. — Semendria. — Triangular fort. — Island of Ostrova — Pa lanka. — Eagles. — Moldova. — Difficulties of navigation. — Com plaints of passengers. — Description of village. — Peasants. — Anec dote. — Copper mines. — Leave steamer. — Embark on small boat. — Sailors. — Kolumbatz. — Scenery. — Storm. — Watch-towers Sen tinels Their huts. — Shoes. — Provision bags. — Boat strikes. — Berzasta Beautiful scenery. — Projected road. — Ridge of rocks. — Geological phænomena. — Perilous navigation— Sailors' characteristic expressions. — Three lines of rocks. — The Graben. — Pro jected canal.— Exquisite view.— Island of Pmetz— Turkish and CONTENTS. Banatian boats Succession of lakes. — Plawischewitz. — Ineffici ency of sailors. — Hospitality of Mr. Vasarkelyi Re-embark on boat. — Roman road Tablets and inscriptions.— Casarn. — New road— View of river.— Costume of WaUachian girls.— Fissure in rock. — Vedranische Holle. — Beautiful scenery. — Arrival at Orschova. — Situation and surrounding country. — Carpathian mountains. — Quarantine building. — Delay of baggage-boats. — Excursion to Mehadia. — Cart. — Coachmen. — The Czerna. — Aqueduct.— Scenery. — Mehadia. — Ruins. — Singular printing. — Mode of hanging gates. — Dress of Banatian peasants. — Baths. — Tradition regarding Hercules. . p. 110 — 137.

Chapter V. Voyage On The Danube

FROM ORSCHOVA IN HUNGARY TO SCALA CLADOVA IN WALLACHIA. Embarkation — Neu Orschova — Fort Elizabeth. — Custom house. — Scenery. — Remains of Roman canal.— Porte de Fer. — Projected canal. — Fall of river. — Rapidity of current.— Party land. — Costumes.— Quarantines — Sibb. — Kladosicza. — Delay of steamer. — Customs connected with sneezing. — Description of Scala Cladova. — Huts. — Feth Islam. — Diminished interest of scenery. — Rural scene and repast. — Degraded condition of in habitants. — Dress. — Postilions — Their howling Arrival at Tchernitz. — Reception. — Sweetmeats. — Supper. — Wash-hand basin. — Town of Tchernitz. — Houses. — Posts of gates. — Chief street. — Dark complexion of inhabitants. — Beauty-spot. — Break fast.—Governor. — Salary. — Anecdote. — Slaves. — Dinner. — Return to Scala Cladova.— National hospitality. — Cheapness of food. — Practice of burying money. — Etymology of name IFaÆze/M'a. — Mode of reckoning time. — Government. — Hospodar. — Former subjection to Porte. — Treaties of Bukharest and Adrianople. — Present influence of Russia. — Anecdote. — Religion. — First printing of Bible. — System of tyranny — Gipsies. — Their origin and names- — Tax in gold dust. — Anecdotes. — State of morality in the two prin cipalities. — Divorces. — Courts of law.— Power of Frank consuls. - Anecdote. — General aspect and productiveness of country.

CONTENTS. Fertility os ancient Dacia. — Adoption by people of Roman name and language. — Mixture of Greek, Persian, and Italian words. — Examples. . . ... p. 138 — 166.

Chapter VI. Voyage On The Danube

FROM SCALA CLADOVA IN WAL- LACHIA TO GALATZ IN MOLDAVIA. Embark on steamer— Inefficiency of Wallachians. — Severin. — Trajan's bridge.— Palanka. — Bust of Trajan. — Boundary between Wallachia and Bulgaria. — Bulgarians. — Their history. — The Balkan. — Windings of Danube. — Scenery. — Widdin. — Muezzin. — Turks. — Costume. — Women Dervesh. — Pasha. — Lorn Palanka. — Sunday on board.— Nicopolis. — Plague. — Breadth of river. — Turkish villages. — Hay-making.— Pelicans. — Osprays. — Batina. — Giorgervo. — Trade. — Departure and dispersion of passengers. — Bukharest. — Its population, morals, and commerce. — Quarantine forms. — Rustchuk. — Fountains, population, and trade. — Coffee houses — Streets. — Houses. — Bazaar. — Burial-ground. — Russian siege. — Consideration of Turks. — Visit to pasha. — Genoese camp. — Turtuka. — Grapes and water-melons. — Scenery. — Geological phænomena. — Silistria. — Russian quarantine. — Fortifications. — Soldiers. — Pont volant. — Russian power. — Horses. — Whirlpools. — Chalk hills. — Hirsovo. — Islands. — Watch-towers.— Pelicans. — The Jalonissa. — Ibrail. — Siege. — Monument.— Town. — Inn. — Ships and trade. — Zsyrm'MiA and lady. — Boundary of Wallachia and Moldavia. — Arrival at Galatz— Review of voyage down the Danube. — Reflections. — Appendix with distances and fares be tween Vienna and Constantinople. . p. 167 — 200.

Chapter VII. Moldavia

FROM GALATZ TO LIOVA. Vice-consul at Galatz. — Albanian character and costume. — Mol davian servants. — Variety of languages spoken. — Commerce of Galatz. — Cheapness of food. — Houses — Furniture. — Streets. — Population.— Effect of arrival of steamer. — Venedic nations — VOL.1. A CONTENTS. General aspect of Moldavia.— Its politics, fertility and population. —Quarantine on Russian frontier.— Preparations for departure- Carriage.— Horses and tackle.— Driver.— Leave Galatz.— Village of Formosica.— Peasant's hut. — Discomforts of night.— Journey resumed.— Villages.— Wells.— Gipsies. — The Pruth.— First view of Russian territory.— Wines. — Tobacco and wild asparagus. — Wodeni. — Ancient and modern modes of wearing hair. — Faltsi. — Greek church.— Country.— Party benighted.— Strength and food of horses. — Porte de Liova. — Cry of Russian guard. — Hut. — Miseries of night. — Jews. — Apply for admission to quarantine. — Difficulties about passport. — Renewed application. — Fresh obstacles—Objection of Russia to foreigners. — Inventory of goods.— Cross the Pruth. .... p. 201—225.

Chapter VIII. Bessarabia

FROM LIOVA TO KISHNAU Enter Bessarabia.— Form of admission into quarantine. — Exami nation of baggage. — Room and furniture. — Guard'aM. — Insects. — Visits of doctor. — Difficulties. — Jew %ra:?eMr. — Interrogations. — List of books. — Final examination and oath. — Leave quarantine. — Ordered to Kishnau. — Character and rank of officers of qua rantine. — Douane. — Portmanteau with books sealed. — Doctor. — Niemtevich — Polish Jews. — Description of vehicle. — Quit Liova. — Scenery. — Verst-posts. — Conquest of Bessarabia. — Habits of people affected by government. — Driver. — Sarasicca. — Peasant's hut. — Wild scenery. — Autumnal tints. — Eagles. — Indian vultures. — View of Kishnau. — Roman walls. — Interior of town. — Hotel. — Beds. — Visits to governor. — Gipsies. — Business transacted by Jews. — Hebrewsoldiers. — Anecdote. . . p. 226 — 244.

Chapter IX. New Russia

FROM KISHNAU TO ODESSA. Leave Kishnau. — Desolate country. — F*unereal stones. — Travel ling in Russia. — Murder of courier. — Sicara. — Frog.. — Macro cremnii Montes. — Bender. — Refuge of Charles XII. — The CONTENTS. 19 Dniester.— Enter New Russia. — Taraspol. — Calmuk Tartars.— Scenery. — Eagles — Ancient monuments. — Thibetian relic—Ger man colonists. — Villages.— Manheim. — Fossil bones.— Mirage.— Illustration of Scripture. — Odessa. — Its name and origin. — Pre sent state. — Hotels.— Scarcity of water.— Condition of streets. — Necessity for a carriage. — Droshki.— Coachmen.— Censorship of press. — English consul.— Cure of hydrophobia.— Lutheran minis ter. — Count Woronzow. — Contrast of manners in North and South Russia. — Lemon with tea. — Russian tea. — Climate. — Ah'fe/. — Terrible effects. — Sudden frost. — Salubrity of Odessa. — Plague. — Locusts. — Morals. — Theatricals. — Language of church service. — Prohibition of missionaries. — Bible Society. — Russian church. — Pastors and their flocks. — Politics Closing Dardanelles. — Russian influence. — Anecdotes. — Poland's wrongs. — Exiles. — Rupture of marriage tie. — Russian wives. — Polish ladies. — Anec dotes. — Indignities suffered by Poles. — Bulgarian emigrants. — Feudal system. — Serfs and seigneurs. — — Services required. — Power of masters. — Anecdote. — Moral effects of slavery. . . . . p. 245— 280.

Chapter X. The Crimea

FROM ODESSA TO BAGTCHESERAI. Embark for Crimea. — Ancient and modern names of Black Sea. — Monastery of St. George. — Balaclava. — Aiabooroon. — Cliffs. — Count Woronzow. — Increased value of land. — Villages. — Ma dame Narischkine. — Fruits. — Wines. — Prince Galitzin Princess Metchersky. — Country seats. — Oreanda. — Land at Yalta. — Horses. — Saddles. — Aloupka. — Estate of count Woronzow. — Diosperos lotus. — Mountain ash. — House and grounds. — Village of Kokoz. — Road. — Kindness of Tartars. — Costumes.— Shaven heads. — Houses. — Party benighted. — Storm. — Bagtcheserai. — Tartar privileges. — Etymology of Don Co.Mac/M. — Languages compared. — Bazaar. — Sheep. — Dromedaries. — Blacksmiths. — Schools. — Russian conquest. — Palace of Tartar khans. — Gardens. — Apart ments. — Hall of audience. — Frescoes— Fountain court. — Royal CONTENTS. private mosque— Dewan— Harem. — Garden and tower.—Mau soleum. — Royal cemetery. — Coffins. — Grand mosque. — Moham medan service.— Missionaries ejected. — Early hours. — Fulfilment of prophecy. — Gipsies. — Ruins of old town. — Monastery of As sumption. — Yearly festival. —Asses laden with water. — Difficult ascent.— Fortress of Joofud Kalah. — Houses. — Market-place- Synagogues. — Karaite Jews. — Hatred of Rabbinists — Origin. — Doctrines. — Veneration for Scripture. — Morals. — Civil laws. — History.— Manuscripts. — School. — Valley of Jehoshaphat.— Return to Bagtcheserai. .... p. 281—317.

Chapter XI. The Crimea

FROM BAGTCHESERAI, BY THE HERACLEOTIC CHERSONESUS, TO ODESSA. Leave Bagtcheserai. — Tartar village of Dosis. — Mausoleums. — Castle of Mankup. — Dewankooee. — Carts — Burial-grounds. — Broochkooee. — Scenery. — Ferry. — Old Jew. — Sebastopol. — Allot ments of land. — Reflections on a settlement in the Crimea. — Bay. — Ancient Ctenus. — Its situation. — Tortoises and fish. — Aqueduct. — Fortress and caves of Inkerman. — Chapels in rock. — Hiding places of early Christians. — Harbour. — Shipping and fortifications. — Site of ancient Chersonesus. — Its foundation and history. — He racleotic and Taurica Chersonesus. — Genoese buildings. — Pagan temples and Christian churches. — Extensive ruins. — Flowers and insects. — Anecdote. — Natural magic. — Circular stone basins. Coins. — Rings for shipping on tops of mountains. — Geological conjectures. — Monastery of St. George. — Temple of Diana. — Me tropolitan. — Greek service. — VaUey of Balaclava. — Greek inhabitants. — Variety of nations in Crimea. — Harbour of Balaclava.

Ancient fortress. — Name derived from Genoese. — Fish. — Sea-ser vant. — Town paved with marble. — Valley of Baidah. Tartar cottage. — Repast. — Ablutions. — Mountains of Ayila. — Majestic scenery. — "Devil's stairs." — Descent. — Village destroyed Houses. — Mode of stacking hay. — Richness of soil. — SpinaChristi. —Tree-frog.— Eagles.— Lizards— Return to Aloupka.— Yalta.— CONTENTS. Massandra— Count Woronzow's exertions in Crimea. — Anecdote. — Public garden at Nikita. — Aidaniel. — Its situation. — View. — Bear's mountain. — Return to Odessa. . p. 318 — 343.

Chapter XII. Turkey In Europe

CONSTANTINOPLE. Embark at Odessa for Constantinople. — Russian pilgrims. — Isle of Serpents. — Markalia. — Varna. — Symplegades. — Thracian Bosphorus. — Scenery. — First view of Constantinople. — Seraglio Point. — Ships. — Caiques. — Costumes. — Disembarkation. — Anecdote. — Plague dreaded by Franks.— Recklessness of Turks. — Towers of Galata and Seraskier. — View from summit of latter. — Mosques. — Sea of Marmora. — Mount Olympus. — Princes' islands.— Seraglio. — Scutari and Kadikooee. — " Sweet waters." — Khans. — Cemeteries. — Galata. — Topkhanah. — Pera. — Golden Horn. — Sultan's caique. — Mosque of Soliman. — Moslim worship. — St. Sophia's. — Jeni Jami. — Ayoob. — Mausoleums. — Compared with those of Agra and Delhi. — Sarcophagus of Constantine. — Origin of Turkish crescent. — Palace of Constantine. — Atmeidan. — Belisarius. — Mosque of Achmet. — Egyptian obelisk. — Ancient pillar from Rhodes. — Delphic brass column. — Maiden's pillars. — Cisterns. — Been Mr deerek. — Iplikjee boodrumee. — Yerek batan serai. — Aqueduct. — Walls of Constantinople. — Seven Towers— Golden gate. — Bloody well.— Gates of city. — Tomb of Ali pasha. — Breach entered by Mohammed II. — Palace of Belisarius. — Fanar. — Etmei dan. . . . . . . p. 344— 379.

Chapter XIII. Turkey And The Turks

Turkish vehicles — Ladies. — Slave market. — Bedlam. — Origin of name. — Cemeteries. — Tombstones. — Cypresses. — Dogs. — Bazaars. — Shoes. — Manuscripts. — Drugs. — Arms. — Jewellery. — Saddlery. — Pipes. — Resemblance between bazaars of Constanti- CONTENTS. nople and Pompeii.— Fountains.— Ablutions.— Baths.— Khans.— Frank boarding-houses.— Seraglio.— Origin of name guM'me Po^e. —Kitchens.— Consumption'of food.— Hall of Justice. — Harem.— Door whence females were thrown into Bosphorus. — Seminary for teaching French— French and Austrian schools.— Fumigation for plague.— Scutari.— Caiques.— Mosque.— Chrysopolis.— Origin of name. — Chalcedon. — Maiden's Tower. — Great cemetery. — Private burial-grounds.— Howling derveshes.— Dancing derveshes. — Sultan's attendance at mosque. — Conversation with widow of sultan Mustapha. — Sultan Mahmood. — Person. — Character.— Difficulties. — Janissaries. — Their destruction. — Conflicting opinions concerning them. — Present army. — Population and extent of Turkey. — Defective policy of Mahmood. — Existing policy of Eng land, France, Austria and Russia. — Important crisis to Turkey. — Her future destinies. — Character of Turks. - — Habits and cus toms. — Anecdote of an opium-eater. — Religious doctrines. — Sub tlety of Moslims regarding the Paraclete. — Apostasy. — Execution of a renegade. — Prayers. — Fasts and festivals. — Pilgrimages. — Priesthood. — Derveshes. — Oolama. — Sheik Islam. — Oomra. — Grand vizir. — His power and office. — Game of chess. — Dewan. — Unjust mode of taxation. — Marriage. — Seclusion of females. — Desire for children. — Jealousies. — Anecdotes. — Dress of men and women. — Differences between Turkish and European customs. . . . . . p. 380— 445.

Chapter XIV. Turkey

HER CHRISTIAN SUBJECTS. Rayahs— Beratlees— Jews— Roman Catholics.— Greeks.— Their numbers, personal appearance, dress and character.— Civil degradation — Anecdote. — Present condition whence originating. — Bright er prospects.— Religious doctrines.— Public services.— Burial ser vice.—Patriarch.—Bishops and clergy.— Marriage of priests.—Cu rious construction of law.— Deacons.— Avarice.— Simoniacal sales- Chicanery —Anecdote— Armenians— Their numbers— Papal and " schismatic."— Anecdote. —Their political influence.— Charac- CONTENTS. 23 ter. — Person. — Dress. — Females. — Antiquity of language — King Abgarus's letter to our Lord. — Separation from church. — Ca?Ao ?MHM. — Patriarchs. — Bishops. — Priests. — Their qualifications and character. — Ceremonial purity. — Respect for Bible. — Translation into Armenian. — Fasts. — Sacrifices. — Masses for dead. — Worship of cross. — Various modes of making sign of cross. — Doctrines. — Monophysitism. — Creed. — Confession. — Worship of virgin and saints. — Sacraments. — Judaism of Armenians. — Doctrines of Greek and Armenian churches compared. — Missionary proceedings in Turkey. — Difficulties and encouragements. — State of re ligion and education among Armenians, Greeks, Jews and Turks. — Anecdotes. — Concluding reflections. . p. 446 — 497.

ERRATA. VOLUME I. t30. IS. — " stalactites" inverted stalactites. 294. 25. — " standing quietiy in " moving slowly through. 301. 15. — "under" in. 379. 25. — " twenty" eight. 410. 24. — " twenty" eight. 413. 2. — "twenty-one" more than eight. TRAVELS IN THE THREE GREAT EMPIRES OF AUSTRIA, RUSSIA, AND TURKEY.

Chapter I. Hungary

PRESBURG. Leave Vienna for Presburg. — Burial-ground. — German coachman. — Drag-chain of carriage. — Mode of harnessing third horse. — Hainburgher Berg. — Noblemen's houses. — Frontier of Austria and Hungary. — Arms of the two kingdoms. — Dress of peasants. — Ancient Carnuntum First view of Presburg. — Fortress. — Pont volant. — Koenigsberg. — Poson. — Population. — Jews. — Schlossberg. — Church. — Statue by Donner. — Body of St. John. — Inscription. — Monument. — Libraries. — Sabbath festivities. — Costume. — Mustaches. — Personal appearance. — Anecdote. — Milkman's stool. — Palatine. — Diet. — Election of deputies. — Growing influence of people. — Latin language. — Introduction of Hungarian. — Count Wesseleni. — Objections to use of Hungarian. — Power of seigneurs. — Four courts of appeal. — Feudal system in Hungary. — Taxes on pea- VOL. I. B DEPARTURE FROM VIENNA. santry. — Urbarium Exactions from serfs. — Poor nobles. — Revenue. — Villes franches. — Expression of public opinion. — Anecdote.

THE Hrst object on the road to Presburg that arrests the eye, after quitting the busy haunts of men in the great capital of Austria, is the burial-ground on the right-hand side, so full, so overflowing with sepulchral monuments, that, at a short distance, they present only a confused mass of masonry. The cemetery looks like a city ; and so, indeed, it is ; a city of the dead ; more peopled than the neighbouring metropolis ; the receptacle of its successive generations. Our road lay over a flat, sandy country, de void of every object of interest ; and the phleg matic German who officiated as coachman, with a characteristic blue apron like that of an Eng lish butcher, refused to urge his horses beyond the pace to which they were habituated, be tween a walk and a trot. At the half-way village, we amused ourselves during a halt by examining the clumsy machinery of our drag chain, and the mode of fastening the horses.

Instead of a neat iron shoe, a large piece of wood, three feet in length, was supported by a heavy chain, which required a second contriv ance to keep it from dangling on the ground. HAINBURGHER BERG. 27 The third horse was tackled in a manner no less strange. Abreast of the other two, his traces were fastened to a cross-bar, half of which extended beyond the side of the carriage, white its centre was attached by means of a long stick to one of the hind wheels. From this, therefore, he pulled at a great mechanical disadvantage, compelling the other outside horse to labor hard to preserve the carriage in its right direction. After travelling eight hours without seeing a hillock, we came to some little mounds called Hainburgher Berg, which, rising gently and gradually out of the plains, form the com mencement of the great chain of Carpathian mountains encircling Hungary.

Beyond these, the country improves in appearance ; and a few noblemen's houses are scattered over the plain ; but each is isolated and desolate, as if dropped from the clouds. A short drive brought us to the village of Wolfsthal, the boundary of Austria and Hun gary, which is still invested with all the for malitiesof a frontier, though the kingdoms have been long united. Over the door of the douane the arms of the two countries figure in co-equal size and dignity, each in the centre of a double-headed eagle, with crowns on his B K8 FRONTIER OF AUSTRIA AKU tKK'.AK'. . iten-ls. a giobe in one talon, and a sword and sceptre in the other. The inscription on the Hungarian side is in Latin, the language of business throughout the country, and that in which our passports were vises by the Hunga rian consul in Henna.

H"und the door of the custom-house six or seven peasants were sitting,clothed with a kind of coarse white btan keting, like the dress of the Himalayan Tar tars; some with hats like coalheavers ; others with little caps turned up with fur. and orna mented with a feather. Near this spot is the town of Petronelle, the ancient Carnuntum, where Marcus Aurelius wrote his O/jc ;; 7^/^/v.s^/ A/r</ . and a little be y<<t)d it, the road is raised with much labor for about four miles over a swampy marsh, and defended with a rampart of immense stones. Hence the traveller obtains the first view of Presburg. The castle, burnt some years ago, stilt retains its exterior wait ; nor does it appear from a distance that this is but a skeleton. It stands on the top of a lull overlooking the town, the Danube, and the surrounding coun try ; and. wit)) its four octagonal turrets, forms a beautiful object in the landscape.

Presburg !s entered from Vienna by a pont volant, or bridge of boats, a kind cf structure KOENIGSBERG. — POSON. 29 very common on the Danube. This is about two hundred and eighty yards in length, having rails streaked with red and white, instead of black and yellow, the colors of Austria. On the bank of the river, just opposite the bridge, is a little mound furnished with a double flight of steps. It seems as if made for a band of musicians, but it is designated by the high sounding title of Koenigsberg, or King's Moun tain; and ancient usage requires that every king of Hungary, after his coronation, shall ascend this hillock, on which he swears to maintain the constitution inviolate. The capital of Hungary, called by the na tives Poson and by the Romans Posonium, contains a population of about twenty thousand, of whom seven thousand are Jews ; who, as in most other towns of the continent, have a distinct quarter allotted to them.

Here they are separated from the rest of the inhabitants by a large iron gate, which, being close under the fort, is known by the name of Schlossberg. The wretchedness of the (%Z Jewry of Pres burg is equalled only by the reputed dege neracy and profligacy of its occupants, against whom public prejudice is so strong, and the opinion of their talent for thieving or amassing is such, that, curiously enough, they are pro- THE PRINCIPAL CHURCH. hibited from residing nearer than Presburg to the gold mines of Cremnitz. The principal church contains little that is remarkable in point of architecture. Over the altar is a fine statue by Donner, representing St. Martin in the act of cutting his cloak in half with a sword, to give a portion to an aged beggar. On the left is a silver coffin,con taining the body of St. John, bishop of Alex andria, with the following inscription, which is interesting, as it shows on what slender foundation some of the miracles of the Romish church are based.