A Pastor's Memorial of Egypt, the Red Sea, the Wildernesses of Sin and Paran, Mount Sinai, Jerusalem, etc

Front matter

A PASTOR'S MEMORIAL OF A VISIT TO THE HOLY LAND, ETC. WO IWEttH AMPTON : I'll INT ED BY THOMAS SIMPSON, MARKET-PLACE. rms Amu? ©.-.mus-SiT ©a I A PASTOR'S MEMORIAL OF EGYPT, THE RED SEA, THE WILDERNESSES OF SLN AND PARAN, MOUNT SINAI, JERUSALEM, AND OTHER PRINCIPAL LOCALITIES OF THE HOLY LAND, Visited in 1842; WITH BELEF NOTES OF A EOUTE THROUGH FRANCE, ROME, NAPLES, CONSTANTINOPLE, AND UP THE DANUBE. BY THE REY. GEORGE FISK, LL.B. PREBENDARY OF LICHFIELD; RURAL DEAN AND VICAR OF WALSALL. LONDON: SEELEY, BURNSLDE, AND SEELEY, FLEET-STREET; T. SIMPSON, WOLVERHAMPTON. 1813. TO THE REVEREND HAY M. ERSKINE, M. A, ... _*-*• .0. My Dear Friend, With every scene and event recorded on the following pages, you have been, and always will be, associated. A friendship, now of some years' standing, commenced between us as yoke-fell'ows in the gospel, has been doubly cemented by a participation of toil, danger and delight in the land of scripture history.

The assurance of this has mingled many a happy feeling with the labours of authorship ; and I cannot now forego the gratification of inscribing my faint sketch of our pilgrimage to you. We have wandered as aliens amidst the desolations of the earthly Canaan — may it be ours to sit down eternally as citizens in the glories of the heavenly Jerusalem. Believe me, my dear Friend, Ever affectionately your's, THE AUTHOR. Walsall Vicarage, September, 1843. I think it right to avow, what the intelligent reader will, however, soon discover for himself, that as a literary production, this book is of small pretension. It is a sketch, and nothing more — just what its title indicates ; and primarily intended to give my flock some instructive idea of the way in which the interval of my absence from them was spent.

As a Pastor's familiar narrative, it contains many particulars in which the public cannot be expected to sympathize as those will, who are so personally related to me. My journey occupied something less than eight months — a space of time affording but little opportunity for adding to those stores of information already extant — the production of gifted authors, who, taken altogether, may be said to have nearly exhausted most of the topics on which I have briefly touched in passing. <f Vill I had intended to intersperse my narrative with certain views of prophecy, which from time to time have presented themselves to my mind, in a way not as yet fully wrought out ; and to add more extensive particu lars of the state and prospects of Israel, as connected with those of the Ottoman empire : but I have been obliged to forbear, in the hope of turning my attention to them hereafter ; for my great difficulty has been to narrow my subject, without really contracting it; and yet to expand sufficiently without making it too diffuse.

Chapter I. European Route-outward

Motives, 2. France — Boulogne, 4. Romish Preaching, 5. Caviglia, 6. French Diligence, 7. Lyons, 8. Romish Superstitions, 9. The Rhone, 10. Avignon — Nismes, 11. Genoa, 12. Civita-Vecchia — Rome, 14. Dogana, 15. St. Peter's, 16. Pantheon, 19. Ancient Rome, 20. Rome— " Holy Week," 22. The Pope, 25. Papal Benediction, 26. Italian Character and Habit, 27. Albano — Vellatri, 28. Pontine Marshes, 29. Terracina, 30. Appian Way, 32. Fondi, 33. Mola — Tomb of Cicero, 34. St. Agatha— Capua — Naples, 35. Monte Posilipo — Virgil's Tomb, 37. Puzzuoli, 38. Baiæ — Ancient Remains, 39. Carmelite Monastery, 40. St. Januarius — Naples — Popery — Purgatory, 41. Pompeii, 42. Ascent of Vesuvius, 43. Vesuvius, 44. Procession of the "Host," 46. Sicily — Sylla and Charybdis, 47. Rhegium — Syracuse — Malta, 51. Sea-Storm, 52. Zante, 55. Melita— Malta, 56. Syra, 59. Crete, 60. Mahom medan Devotions, 61. First View of Alexandria, 62.

Chapter II. Egypt

Alexandria — Bazaars, 66. Pompey's Pillar — Cleopatra's Needles, 68. Egyptian Funeral Procession, 70. Travelling Apparatus, 73. Marriage Procession — Mahmoudi Canal, 74. Arab Horsemen — Mehemet Ali, 75. Atfeh — The Nile, 77. Boat-Crew, 81. The Nile— Shubra— Pyramids— Boulakh, 84. Grand Cairo, 85. Rhoda Island — Bath, 88. Baths — Bedaween Arabs, 90. Sheikh Hussein, 93. Sheikh Suleiman Mengid, 95. Preparations for the Desert, 96. Cairo— Slave-Market, 98. Pyramids of Ghiseh, 101. Old Cairo- Dervishes, 102. Egyptian Harvest — Pyramids of Ghiseh, 103. The Sphynx, 107. The Camel— Camel-riding, 109. CONTENTS.

Chapter III. The Arabian Desert

; FROM CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. Departure fromCairo,115. Night-Scene inthe Desert,116. Desert of Suez, 117. Mirage, 119. Encampment inthe Desert, 121. Bedaween Characteristics, 122. Incidents, 123. Red Sea— Suez— Fountain, 125. Superstitious Practice- Suez, 126. Passage of the Red Sea, 127. Ayun Mousa, The Springs of Moses, 129. Route to Mount Sinai— Ayun Mousa, 130. Wadey Werdan, Etc. 131. Precaution— Waters of Marah, 134. Wadey Ghurundel, 135. Wilder ness of Sin, 136. Children of Israel, 137. Wadey Usseit— Wadey Thai— Wadey Homrr, 138. Arab Families— Ramel Morekh, 141. Wadey Berah— Arab Burial Ground, 142. Wadey Sheikh— Sinaite Group, 143. Gebel Serbal, 144. Wadey Hawy— Plain of El Raha, 145. Horeb— Sinai, 146. Convent of Santa Katarina, 147. Chapel of the Burning Bush, 152. Convent Library — Catacomb, 153. Ascent of Mount Sinai, 155.

Chapter IV. The Desert

; FROM MOUNT SINAI TO AKABAH Route towards Akabah, 163. The Mezzeni — Desert Feud, 165. Adventure with the Mezzeni, 166. Wadey el Ayun, 169. Arab Superstition, 174. Wadey el Ayiin — Fountain, 175. Night-March, 176. Murder of Sheikh Suleiman, 177. The Journey resumed, 181. El Hanekh, 182. Akabah, 183. Future Movements, 185. Sheikh Hussein, 187. Final Arrangements, 190. Panic, 191.

Chapter V. The Desert

; FROM AKABAH TO DHAHERIYEH Wilderness of Paian,194. Departure from Akabah,195. Plain of Darfurekh — Strangers, 198. The Haiwat Tribe, 199. Wadey el Mushehhem, 200. "The Way of Mount Seir" — Wadey el G'ssaim, 201. Adventure with the Tiyahah Tribe, 202. Eboda— 'Abdeh, 208. Eboda— Wadey er Ruhaibeh, 209. Rehoboth— Wadey el Khaluseh, 210. Elusa, 211. The Retem— The Borders of Canaan, 212. Bir-es-Seba — Beersheba, 213. Dhaheriyeh— Agricultural Pursuits, 215. Dismissal ofthe Bedaween, 217. CONTF.NTS. XIII

Chapter VI. Palestine From Dhaheriyeh To Jerusalem

Palestine, 220. Hebron, 222. Valley of Eschol— Machpelah, 224. Jewish Pilgrims— Road to Bethlehem, 225. Bethlehem, 227. Chapel of the Nativity, 230. Bethlehem — Village of the Shepherds, 233. Costume, Etc. — Departure from Bethlehem, 235. Tomb of Rachel, 237. Jerusalem, 239. Arrival at the Latin Convent, Jerusalem, 242.

Chapter VII. Jerusalem

Prophetic Portraiture of Jerusalem, 244. Jerusalem — The Jews, 246. Jerusalem, 248. Sacred Localities, 249. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, 251. View of the City from the Seraglio, 252. Site of the Temple — Exterior of Jerusalem, 253. Mount Zion, 255. The VaUey of Hinnom — Field of Blood, 257. Tophet, 259. The Valley of Jehoshaphat, 260. Tombs in the Valley of Jehoshaphat — Gethsemane, 265. Gethsemane — The Mount of Olives, 269. Bethany, 276. The Road to Emmaus, 278. Tombs of the Kings, 280. A Lunatic, 281. The Pool of Bethesda, 282. My First Sabbath in Jerusalem, 283. The New Jerusalem, 285. The Jews in Palestine, 287. The Church in Jerusalem, 289- Jewish Custom, 290. My Second Sabbath in Jerusalem, 291.

Chapter VIII. The Dead Sea

JORDi\N, fa. Preparations for the Journey, 296. Arab Pastimes— Plan ofthe Journey, 297. Commencement of the Journey, 298. Mountain-Pass towards Mar Saba, 299. Convent of Mar Saba, 300. Route towards the Dead Sea, 305. The Dead Sea, 307. Sodom— Gomorrah, Etc. 313. The Jordan, 317. The Plain of Jericho, 320. Fountain of Elisha, 325. Road between Jerusalem and Jericho, 327.

Chapter IX. Jerusalem, Sychar Nazareth

fa. My Last Sabbath in Jerusalem, 330. Preparations for Departure, 331. Gibeon— Beeri (Beeroth), 333. Bethel— Shiloh, 335. ShUoh, 336. Bir-el- Lebyan— Mountains of Ephraim, 337. The Ground bought by Jacob, ofthe Sons of Hamor, 338. Jacob's Well— Mounts Ebal and Gerizim, 339. Sychar (Nablous),344. BirSharath, 345. Samaria— Sebaste, 346. Road to Nazareth, 349. CONTENTS. Jenin — Plain of Esdraelon, 351. Embarrassment — Nazareth, 353. Ancient Well of Nazareth— Mount Tabor, 356. Approach to the Sea of Galilee, 358. Tiberias, 359. The Sea of Galilee, 360. Cana of Galilee, 362. Scripture Imagery — Adventure, 363. Journey towards Mount Carmel, 364. Mount Carmel, 366. Latin Convent on Mount Carmel, 367. Schools ofthe Prophets — Acre, 368. Journey Towards Tyre and Sidon, 369. Scorpions — Cape Blanco — Scalæ Tyriorum, 370.

Ras-el-Ayun, 371. Tyre, 372. Sarepta— Sidon, 378 Nabey Younes, 3S1. Albanian Soldiers, Etc. 382. Arrival at Beyrout, 383. Beyrout, 384. Lebanon, 385. Tribes of Lebanon, 386. Route to Baalbec, 387. The Bekaa— Nabey Noah— Nabey Sheeth— Baalbec, 390. Dier-el-Akhmar— Ayun-el-Teene, 394. Ascent of Lebanon, 395. Cedars of Lebanon, 397. Return to Beyrout — Christian Education in Syria, 399. Ancient Church of Syria, 400.

Chapter X. The Islands Of The Archipelago And Constantinople

Departure for Constantinople, 404. Cyprus, 406. Rhodes— Colossus, 407. Islands— Smyrna, 408. Seven Churches of Asia, 410. Islands, Etc. 413. The Hellespont, Etc. 414, Constantinople— Lazaretto, Etc— Dancing Der vishes — Fatalism — Scuteri — Bulgooroo — Howling Dervishes, 415 — 433. Journey to Broussa — Olympus, 434. Thoughts of Home, 436.

Chapter XI. Homeward

Homeward— Danube Route, 438. Companions— Black Sea, 439. Varna— Kustanje— Czemavoda— Nikopol— Widdin, 440. Skelegladover— New and Old Orsova, 441. Mehadia, 442. WaUachian Peasantry, Villages, Etc. 443. Drenkover— Semlin— Peterwarden, 444. The Danube— Pesth and Buda, 445^ Presburg, Etc. 446. Vienna, 447. Schonbriin, 449. Vienna— Linz— Ober-zell, 450. Ober-zell-Passau-Ratisbon, 451. German Apprentices- Ratisbon, 452. Nurenburg— Frankfort, 453. The Rhine— Home, 454.

Chapter XII. Final

Growing interest about the Holy Land, 456. Inferences, Etc. 457 Fulfilled and Unfulfilled Prophecy, 458. Conclusion, 459—461.

Chapter I. European Route— Outward, Etc

CHAPTER I. EUROPEAN ROUTE OUTWARD.

When preparing this narrative, principaUy for thc perusal of the members of a beloved flock at whose request it was undertaken, I felt that, in order to give a view of the manner in which the period of my absence from them was passed, I must introduce many a scene and topic already familiar to those whose reading has lain in the way of voyages and travels. I do not expect to add much to the impressions made on the public mind by travellers more extensive, and authors more gifted than myself; but I just entertain the hope, that many, who have not had much opportunity for perusing what has been already written upon the scenes of my pilgrimage, may participate the deep interest I have felt, and share the instruction I have derived from a visit to the most intensely interesting localities in the world; and certainly, when I left the shores of my native land, with broken health and unfltness for the toils of parochial duty, it was under the persuasion that I was not about to travel for my own selfish gratification, but with an extended motive — and I think a high one too, comprehending in it a desire to benefit my flock as well as myself.

A MOTIVES, ETC. It is not an easy matter to depict the state of mind with which I prepared for an undertaking that looked so much like enterprise, to one, whose life had been spent within the narrow ocean-girdle of Britain, and much of it in the com paratively retired occupations of a Christian Pastor. Difficul ties I knew were to be met, and dangers, perhaps, to be encountered, from the very nature of the countries and climates through which I proposed to travel, which might be trying and distressing to one, whose past connexion with home and thc scenes and employments of home had been thc source of comfort and delight; but stiU, a great point was to be gained; and scenes which had become endeared and sacred to me ever since the Bible had poured its light and truth into my heart, seemed to invite me at a distance ; and well I knew that God, who had in ancient days manifested himself there to patriarchs and prophets arid apostles — and especiaUy in his own dear Son, would still be there in the energy of his power, and in the tenderness of his love, and in the richness of his gospel-grace.

As a christian man, I went forth to visit the birth-place and cradle of Christianity, with my Bible for my guide-book and solace; and it is a record of impressions made upon a christian mind that I wish to present in these pages. It is neither my desire nor intention to describe emotions and sensations occasioned by the presence of venerable and sacred objects, for they, of necessity, must be peculiar to the tone and habit of individual minds, and therefore, not unfrequently obscure, and generally unsatisfactory to others, whose susceptibilities have never been awakened by the actual presence of the objects to which they may refer. Merc emotions and sensations are reaUy very inconsiderable matters, though they commonly give a complexion to the actions of our daily life; they are not of us, but they are about and within us.

They come and go unbidden, and without our controul. They bear, in general, but little trace of their where-about. They are ready to take flight at any moment when the wing of time and change prepares to waft them away; and the heart MOTIVES, ETC. on which they have lighted for a season, is apt to be as inconstant and changeful as they. But, there is a deep, inward process, far beyond sensation ,and emotion, which goes on in hearts directed and regulated in their movements by the Spirit of God, and which results in depositing impressions as enduring as the mind itself — impressions from a die formed with the lines of thoughtful reflectiveness, and intelligible on their exposure, to other minds acted on by a similar influence. The charm of all visible things, or the reverse, is the effect of some inward impression made by them on the seat of the intellect and the affections; and it is the province of such impressions to recall, not only the objects themselves, but all that stands in association with them, whether referring to the past, the present, or the future.

And it is possible, in the way of simple narrative and description to give such a portraiture of events, persons and places, as shaU bring them before the minds of others with startling vividness and reality; but that is not aU we want. It is the invisible portraiture of things reflected on the heart, reproduced and given forth from mind to mind, which alone has power to satisfy the inquiring and rightly discerning spirit. And I am not without hope that such wdl read these pages with interest. When we weighed anchor on the fifth of March, 1842, at the dawn of day, in the stirring port of London, and when I felt that a few hours would probably land me on a foreign shore, I could but look around amidst the forest of masts, and contemplate the indications they afforded of Eng land's national greatness and commercial importance; and in that contemplation, I could not help blending a thought of the vastness of her responsibility as a christian nation, blest with the fulness of gospel light, and enriched beyond other lands in gospel privileges. x2 FRANCE — BOULOGNE.

Ten hours and a half of pleasant sailing brought us to the port of Boulogne. The first sight of the shores of France awakened in my mind many a train of thought bearing upon her past history and her present condition and prospects. True — the age of her chivalry was gone, and perhaps some what of her national glory departed: clouds had burst over her, and the volcanic eruptions of political terror had lacerated her : light and darkness had undergone many a conflict within her, and deep traces of the latter, in a spiritual form, were abundantly visible; but still no one could deny that there were yet left in France materials of a great and noble kind, on which a regenerative process, political, moral, and spiritual might act successfully. For this every christian heart should pray ; and if it please God that the movement towards spiritual light which has happily begun, and towards which many influential minds are now inclining, both in and out of the Church of Rome, should grow and effectually extend itself, there is no height of national greatness to which France may not arise.

It was on Sunday — thc day after our arrival at Boulogne, that an opportunity presented itself of hearing a style and manner of preaching in thc Church of Rome, calculated to induce and propel such a movement as that to which I have referred. After having attended the service in the EngUsh Chapel with comfort and edification, the bells of the parish Church announced the hour of vespers. I entered while the congregation was assembling, and which consisted, as most Roman Catholic congregations in France do, chiefly of females of thc humbler classes. But few men are ever found among them, which may tend to prove, that however the genius of Popery may prevail, yet that its outward symbols have but little charm for, or influence upon the public mind. The caffe, the promenade, and the other various sources of mere gratification, seem to claim the Sunday hours of thc greater part of the population.

After the usual service of vespers, upon which I make no ROMISH PREACHING. comment, a young ecclesiastic — thc beau ideal of a French priest — ascended the pidpit, and addressed the congregation with great earnestness on the subject of thc real presence of our Lord Jesus Christ in the eucharist. There was a degree of boldness and unrestraint in his manner of preaching, which left my mind impressed with the notion that it was not just on the side of the dogmas of a Church that he was declaiming, but on matters which were deposited in his mind with aU the sanctity of eternal truth about them : and one remarkable feature of his ministry was — that he earnestly appealed to the judgments of his hearers — a novel appeal to come from the lips of a priest of the Church of Rome. Let but the people be invited and urged to form a judgment for themselves, and let the means and opportuni ties for right judgment be set before them by the unhindered circulation of the pure and unadulterated word of God, and the movement set on foot in France — the clement of which was contained in this young preacher's sermon — must, under the divine blessing, lead on to a happy issue for the spiritual interests of the French people, and others on whom their national influence may be exercised.

I cannot forbear to record here a circumstance which affected my mind very sensibly. On the evening of my arrival at Boulogne, I had retired to my room, and on opening my bible for my evening portion, the first passage on which my eye rested, was Isaiah lxvi. 13— "As one whom his mother corns orteih, so tvill I comfort you; and ye shall be com forted in Jerusalem." I am not wont to use holy scripture superstitiously, nor do I think it could justly be deemed superstitious, if I regarded this passage as given for my special solace and comfort on the very day I commenced my journey to the Holy Land. If there are any who would account me superstitious on this score, I should be much more willing to bear the imputation than forego the comfort which that word afforded me. From Boulogne, ouiroute lay direct to Paris.

I dwell not CAVIGLIA. on the objects of deep historical interest which arrested my attention whde there. They are familiar to most readers. The genius of the French mind, and the habitude of the French people, are both strikingly exhibited in every thing that meets the eye in that remarkable capital. One thing which afforded me great satisfaction was the opportunity of meeting the venerable Caviglia, so celebrated for his twenty years explorative residence in and about the Pyramids of Egypt. He was then in Paris. We had expected to find him in Egypt. Introduced by a note from a mutual friend, we visited him at his residence — a small attic, five or six floors upwards, with barely room for his bed, a small table and a little coUection of books. He received us with frankness and urbanity. The history of this man is very remarkable and instructive.

After a long Use, spent in scientific pursuits, and in the search of truth in her many avenues, or, rather in the many avenues in which she is commonly sought ; and after labouring in occult sciences and pushing his enquiries, as he now believes, through the personal agency of the evil one, to thenextreme point, God was pleased to land him on the sure foundation of revealed truth ; and though in communion, nominally only I hope, with the Church of Rome, yet he seems to be aware of, and disengaged from, her sorceries. He is as simple as a chdd, and his sweet benevolent countenance beamed on us. He told us of the fact above alluded to, that there is a great movement, in the way of enquiry, going on in the Church of Rome in France ; and in this he seemed heartily to rejoice, as every man would, who has found, like him, his religion in the bible, apart from the traditions of men.

I shall not easuy forget him. There sat the enlightened, the dis tinguished, the christian CavigUa, in his poor rude attic, without fire, without domestics, and almost without the usual conveniences of life, and with but few friends. He was within the mighty heart of Paris; but infinitely above aU that makes it throb with ever changing emotions. He says his great desire is now to die a little daily, that he may not have it aU to do at the last. He seems Uke a man of a better age than this ; one who has fed on better hopes than the men of this FRENCH DILIGENCE. generation. He has lived so long above the ordinary habits of the world, that it is now no matter of self-denial to end his career in an attic. It seemed to afford him satisfaction to see my dear feUow traveUer and myself — two English Clergymen on our way to the Holy Land; and when we rose to take our leave, he held us by the hand, caUed us his dear brethren in the Lord Jesus Christ, and prayed God to increase the number of devoted followers of our Divine Master.

There was a touching solemnity in our parting. The door closed upon us. I felt that our next meeting might be where there wiU be no separation. I have made this mention of the venerable Cavisrlia, in order to put before my readers a memorable instance of the unsearchable manner in which our heavenly Father is some times pleased to dispense his grace, and to seek and find those on whom he intends his glory should rest. Our route lay from Paris to Chalons, through. Charenton, Melun, Sens, Joigny, Auxerre, Avallon and Autun; and the whole of it was dreary enough. On quitting Paris, we experienced an instance of merciful protection not to be forgotten. The huge, unwieldy and overladen Diligence was driven by a wild, dashing and reckless fellow ; and as we were turiiing a very sharp corner, with a rapid descent in the road, at full gallop, I felt the vast machine poising under me, and all but dashed down on its side.

The driver himself looked back with amazement at finding we had escaped. Had it been otherwise, the consequences must have been terrible. The exit from Paris towards Lyons is in the worst possible order; scarcely two carriages can go abreast; but notwith standing our recent danger and escape, the driver dashed on as before, and I felt persuaded that under his misguidance something untoward must happen. However, we reached the end of our stage in safety ; but another and another, as wild as he, assumed the reins throughout the journey, and surely it was no small cause of thanksgiving that we proceeded without mischief. ThecLjiWs of French Diligences are quite LYONS a people by themselves. Their endless talkings, shoutings, and cracking of whips by night as well as by day, admit of no hope of repose to the weary traveUer.

When we were near SanUeu, suddenly one of the springs of the overloaded carriage broke, and rendered it problematical whether we should be able to proceed. A country artiste in timber bungled together a wooden support to the ddapidated spring, in the hope that we might be able to hold on our way. Notwith standing our fracture, the heedless driver dashed on as if nothing had happened; and when we reached Autun, a striking ancient town, and had made a suitable delay for needful repairs, we proceeded for six hours more over roads impracticable enough to try the stabdity of any carriage less substantial than a French Ddigence. Chalons was reached at last. Our route lay from Chalons to Lyons, on the Seine, a delightful sad of eight hours. The first view of Lyons is far more impressive thau that of Paris itself.

The unequal surface, and the more distant parts of the town occupying elevated positions, give an idea of extent and magnitude for which I was not quite prepared, when thinking of Lyons as the second town in the French territory. The view of Lyons, and of the adjacent country from the observatory, is extensive and most interesting, and far exceeded in my estimation the view of Paris and its environs as obtained from the top of the triumphal arch of Napoleon. When the eye had traversed the far-stretching ranges of human habitations, and the busy, stirring scenes of trade, commerce, and giddy pleasure, which seemed to lie at our feet ; and when it sought for stiU further objects of interest, there — in the distance, appeared the snow capped "monarch of mountains" Mont Blanc, with Mont Cenis, and the range of the Alps towering away, with bold and well defined outline, in strong reUef upon their clear atmospheric background.

It was a scene never to be forgotten: but how difficult to present to the mental eye of others, by the feeble though graphic instrumentaUty of words. It seemed to stand before me like the beautiful creations of a dreamy hour; and I could scarcely believe that after so few days of ROMISH SUPERSTITIONS. 9 absence from home, my eye was resting on those noble and far-famed mountains. After descending the observatory, we made a visit to the much celebrated and ancient Church, near at hand, dedicated to the Virgin, in connexion with whose name numberless miracles are said to have been wrought ; in token of which, the waUs are HteraUy covered with pictures representing the scenes and circumstantials of the aUeged miracles — some of them dis tressing, some ludicrous ; and Uttle models, in wax, of diseased members of the human body — hands, arms, feet, eyes, &c, said to have been healed, are suspended in innumerable rows.

In one corner of the Church I observed a wooden leg of the usual construction — an offering made by a lame man, who had no further occasion for it, by reason of the miraculous restoration, I suppose, of the lost member, the place of which it had supplied. The useless wooden leg became thus a pious and votive offering to the Virgin. The mention of these things may at first excite a smde with many who see only the absurdity of them ; but those who know what it is to live under the sober influence of a pure gospel, wiU see more than absurdity, and lament with me over these sad proofs of a degrading creduUty, at variance with that faith which elevates the soul and purifies the heart. In the immediate vicinity of the Church were numerous shops for the sale of the various toys of Popery — rosaries, crucifixes, pictures of saints, martyrs, &c; and amongst these degrading matters of commerce, a vast supply of wax models of members of the human body was ready to meet the intentions of every votive offerer.

At the principal entrances to most of the parish Churches, there are staUs fixed -for the sale of the small trappings of popish worshippers. From Lyons, our course lay down the lovely and picturesque Rhone to Avignon — that ancient city, so celebrated in the history of the fate and fortunes of the Papacy. As the Rhone is less visited by EngUsh traveUers than the Rhine, I dweU rather upon its rich and varied scenery ; and do not hesitate THE RHONE. to say, that it produced on my mind more vivid impressions than even the Rhine itself, or the richer parts of the Danube which I visited on my return. The Rhone deserves far more attention than it has yet received. TraveUers are frequently too ready to foUow in a beaten track, and perhaps often admire scenes of celebrity more because others have admired them, than on account of any direct or comparative impressions which they themselves have received.

From Lyons to Avignon the scenery is for the most part progressive in boldness and picturesque beauty. Always rapid, frequently broad and expansive, the rich river-current flows on majestically. It effects a junction with the Saone at Lyons. The bold lulls on the right, or western bank of the Rhone, are generally clothed with terraces of vines from thc margin of the river to their very summits ; and on some of them is produced the dehcious Hermitage, the Vin du Perryac, as weU as the Vin ordinaire of the country. The towns and viUages on both banks are often bold, very bold, and always interesting as pictures, exhibiting as a prominent feature, the light gracefulness of the Italian style. White convents, and reUgious houses, occupying often difficult and elevated positions, give great enrichment to the scene.