Travels and Researches in Asia Minor, more particularly in the Province or Lycia

Preface

. At tlie request of several of niy friends, and in accord ance with the spirit of the present era in literature, I am induced to publish in a cheap and compendious form the present abridgment of my Journals. In this edition I have omitted the Inscriptions in the Greek and Lycian languages, together with the dissertations upon them, only occasionally giving translations of the Inscriptions in notes. The lists of plants and coins, together with such Plates as are not capable of being introduced into this Work, are likewise omitted. A further motive with me for publishing this edition has been the wish to see collected and brought together in one work an account of my researches, and of the satisfactory result of my four visits to Asia Minor, my Journals having necessarily appeared at intervals, and been followed by several pamphlets, on particular sub jects connected with those works, and in continuation

PREFACE.

. of the same researches. I have also added a paper, rendering to the Trustees of the British Museum an account of the results of the Expedition for removing to our National Museum the works of Art which I discovered. CHARLES FELLOWS. London, November, 1852.

PREFACE.

1 > A JOURNAL WRITTEN DURING AN EXCURSION IN ASIA MINOR Since my return to England from the Tour in Asia Minor, which forms the subject of the following Journal, I have been informed at the Royal Geographical Society that parts of my route which lay through the Interior and Southern district of the country, and led me to the remains of im portant ancient cities, had not before been traversed by toy European ; and it is on this aecount alone that I am induced to lay my Journal before the Public. The country through which I travelled is that small portion of Asia Minor (now known by the name of Ana dhouly) which lies between lat. 42° and 36°, and long. 26° and 32°, including Lydia, Mysia, Bithynia, Phrygia, Pisidia, Pamphylia, Lycia, and Caria. My route is marked in the accompanying Map. VI PBEFACE.

As the most interesting period of the history of this country was the time of its occupation by the Greeks, 30 the remains of their cities form now the chief attraction to the traveller. These cities, some of them of very remote antiquity, all had their origin prior to the Conquest of the country by the Romans in the third century before the Christian æra, after which time that people were nominally the possessors of the country, and the Roman taste was visibly encroaching on the Greek in works of art. About the age of Constantine, the Christians began to produce a still greater change in the architecture of the many cities of which they had possession, including the Seven Churches of the Apocalypse, piling up buddings in a style very different from the pure Greek. Next came the Venetians, whose slight fortifications, budt of the remains of ruined cities, are seen on every coast and in every important mountain-pass.

The conquest by the present occupants, the Turks, succeeded in the fourteenth century. Their architectural works are few, and of a character so peculiar as to render them easily distinguishable from the earlier buildings by which they are surrounded. The descendants of the Greeks, the ancient possessors of the sod, do not, I believe, now form a tenth part of the population ; their costume and even language are so lost by mixture with the Turks, that these national peculiarities are with difficulty traced. The Greeks generally wear colours not so gay as those of the Turks, frequently having the tur ban and Turkish trousers of black; green they are forbid den to use, that being the peculiar colour of a privdeged few among the followers of the Prophet.

PREFACE.

. VII It will be gathered from my Journal, that at the time of my arrival in the country I was strongly biassed in favour of the Greeks, and equally prejudiced against the Turk3 ; and it will be seen in the course of the narrative how this unfavourable idea of the Turkish character was gradually removed by a personal intimacy with the people, generally in situations where they were remote from every restraint but those which their rehgion imposes. Of the country which I was entering I knew as Httle as of its inhabitants, and this want of information may be manifest in parts of my Journal ; but I have given my observations made on the spot, that the fidelity of the descriptions may not be impaired. The Drawings introduced have been selected from my sketch-book for the purpose of illustration only.

Those which represent the sculptured remains found at Xanthus have been seen by the Trustees of the British Museum, and I hear that on their recommendation the Government has given directions for having these monuments of ancient art brought to this country ; we may hope therefore to see them among the treasures of our National Institution. 1 have added Trans lations of the Inscriptions wliich I copied on my tour, for the elucidation of which I must acknowledge my great obli gations to my friend Mr. James Tates. Had I been aware when I travelled through this district how httle it was known, I, should have made more careful observations of position and distance, to assist in mapping the country ; and I should have devoted more time to the examination of inscriptions. I hope however that the par tial information which I can furnish, may induce other tra-

PREFACE.

. vellers better prepared than myself for antiquarian research to turn their steps to this part of the world, which not only abounds in interest connected with early history and poetry, but is so rich in existing remains of past ages. C. E. London, May, 1839.

PREFACE.

CO AN ACCOUNT OF DISCOVERIES IN LYCIA. Oir my visit to Asia Minor in 1838, of which I gave an account in my former Journal, I found that the district of ancient Lycia was so rich in all that is most interesting to the traveller, that, my. time then allowing of only a short excursion into it, I could not but feel a strong desire to re turn at a future day, and explore it more carefully. This desire was increased when, on reaching England, I learned how completely unknown this country is to modem travellers, and how much importance the learned attached to many of my discoveries. On my second visit therefore to Asia Minor, in 1840 (the account of which is given in the Journal now published), I

PREFACE.

. IX determined to turn my steps at once to Lycia ; and I have, as will be seen from the line of my route on the map, traversed it in several directions. The new discoveries which I have made on this excursion have richly rewarded me ; and I am led to believe that the materials for the historian, the philo logist aud the lover of art, which I have rescued from the ruins I visited, wdl be found of no inconsiderable value. The geographer will see that I have mapped the interior of the country, which hitherto has been unknown, and left blank in the maps : for the coast I am indebted to the ad mirable Survey of Captain Beaufort. In this small province I have discovered the remains of eleven cities not denoted in any map, and of which I believe it was not known that any traces existed. These eleven, with Xanthus and Tlos described in my former Journal, and the eleven other cities along the coast visited by former travehers, make together twenty-four of the thirty-six cities mentioned by Pliny as having left remains still seen in his age.

I also observed, and have noticed in my Journal, many other pdes of ruins not included in the above numbers. Many of the coins which I have found, and of which %\ give copies in the following pages, were before unknown to the numismatist, and others wdl enable him to assign place and date to coins in various museums, which have before been unexplained or erroneously attributed. Of the beautiful sculptures and coloured bas-rehefs found among the ruins, I have brought away numerous drawings, with which my Journal is dlustrated. Some of the inscriptions, of which I took copies on this tour, are of great value, as supplying a key to the hitherto

PREFACE.

. X unknown Lycian language, and others are important as bearing upon, and in some instances elucidating very curiously, questions of remote history. To Mr. Hermann Wiener I have great pleasure in ex pressing my acknowledgments for his translations of the numerous Greek inscriptions which I copied ; as I have to my friend Mr. Daniel Sharpe, for his paper on the Lycian inscriptions. I have also to thank Professor Don for kindly furnishing me with the names and classes of the plants which I collected, many of which he describes as of species hitherto unknown. C. P. London, April, 18-11, i riGX ■j:> iii. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Lydia

Arrival at Smyrna. — Costume. — Description ofthe Town. — Casino Ball. — Slave Market. — Manners of the People. — Greek Church. —Antiquities. — Egyptian Customs. — Departure for Magnesia.— Caravan Bridge. — Natural History on the way.- — Khan at Magnesia. — Journey to Thyatira, one of the Seven Churches. — Its Antiquities . .

Chapter II. Mysia

Journey to S6*ma. — Inscriptions. — Proceed to Pergamus. — Its Antiquities and Situation. — A Khan. — Natural History of the Country. — Adramyttmm. — Assos. — Its Architectural Bemains. — Its Tombs. — Manners of the People.— Alexandrian Troy. — Its Ruins. — Hot Springs. — Stone Quarry with Columns. — Enae. — Implements and Customs of the Ancients retained.. — — Plains of Troy.— Arrival at the Dardanelles. — Abydos and its Antiquities .......

Chapter III. Constantinople

French Steamboat. — Arrival at Constantinople. — Climate. — Description of the City. — Bazaar9. — Change of Costume by the Turks. — Habits of the People. — Dancing Dervises. — Antiquities. — The Sultan. — His Policy. — Situation of the City CONTENTS. XII PAGB 77 92 120 127

Chapter IV. Bithynia

Departure from Constantinople. — Burial-ground. — New Road. — Dil Perry. — Manners of the People. — The Country. — Natural History. — Arrival at Nicæa. — Its Remains. — Discovery of Inscription. — Pass of the Mountain Lefky. — Vizier Khan. — Power of the Firman. — Sohoot ......

Chapter V. Phrygia

A Forest. — Oneoenoo. — Singular Caves. — Mountains and Table-lands. — Curious Geological Features. — Kootaya. — Extraordinary Rocks. — Expedition to seek Doganlu. — Customs of the People. — Æzani. — Its Antiquities. — Inscriptions. — Habits of a Private Family. — Delicacy of their Manners. — Departure for Altuntash. — Sichanlee. — Sandookle. — Dunibari-ovasy. — The Pl% e. — Catchiburloo ......

Chapter VI. Pisidia

Journey to Sparta. — Reception of a Governor at his Province. — Honesty of the People. — Singular Pass of the Mountains.— Alaysodn. — Ruins of Sagalassus. — Natural History

Chapter VII. Pamphylia

Arrival at Boojak. — Yisit to the Ruins of a splendid City, probably Selge. — Beermargy. — Descent of the Taurus Range. — Plains of Pamphylia. — Adalia. — Visit to the Pasha. — Botany. — Excursion to ancient Cities, probably Perge, Isionda, Pednelissus, Syllium, Side, and Aspendus. — Return to Adalia. — Domestic Manners of a Greek Family. — Departure CONTENTS. XIII PAGE 157 184 200 209 216 CHAPTER VHI. LYCIA. Voyage to Phasehs. — Olympus. — Phineka Bay. — State of the Peasantry. — Passage of the Mountains to Antiphellus. — Ruins of Patera. — City of Xanthus. — Inscriptions and Curious Sculpture. — Tombs. — Cottage. — Ancient Customs preserved. — Explore the Valley of the Xanthus. — Ancient City of Tlos. — Greek Superstitions. — Horses of the Country. — Macry, the Ancient Telmessus. — Curious Tombs cut in the Rocks .

Chapter IX. Caria

Route by Dollomon, Koogez, Hoola. — Variation of Season. — Moola. — Gipsies. — Stratoniceia. — Its Ruins and Inscriptions. — Mylasa. — Primitive Mode of Felling Timber. — Labranda. — Kizzlejik and Balfy to Miletus. — Its Ruins. — Inhospitality of the Peasantry. — Afterwards explained ....

Chapter X. South Of Lydll

Priene. — Sansoon. — Thunder-storm. — Natural History. — Chanly. — Scala Nuova. — Ephesus. — Its Remains. — Idin, the Ancient Tralles. — A Market-day. — Valley of the Mæander

Chapter XI. Part Of The West Of Phrygia

Caroura. — Valley of the Lycus. — Laodiceia. — Remains. — Hierapohs.— Its Ruins. — Curious Hot Springs. — Vultures

Chapter XII. Lydia

Aneghool. — Philadelphia. — Opium- Gathering. — Sardis. — Its Remains. — Cavalcades of Travellers. — Camels. — Cassaba. — Return to Smyrna. — Retrospect. — The People. — Climate. — Scenery I: CONTENTS. XIV PAGE 231 251 266 281

Chapter XIII

Smyrna. — Climate. — Bazaars. — Horses. — Provisions. — Ball.. — Road to Thera, the Ancient Caystrus. — Passage of the Mountains to Idin, the Ancient Tralles. — Tahir Pasha. — His Museum. — Inscriptions. — Valley of the Mæander. — Sultan Hissa. — Soldiers. — Antiocheia. — The Valley of the Mosynus. — Karasoo. — To Yeerah, the Ancient Aphrodisias ....

Chapter XIV

The Ancient Aphrodisias. — Temple of Venus. — Pagan Age. — Christian Age. — Present State. — Sarcophagi. — Natural History. — Karasoo. — Arrival of the New Finnan or Code of Laws. — Consequent Changes. — Return to the Valley of the Mæander. — The River Harpasus. — Passage of the Mountains. — Valley of the Marsyas .......

Chapter XV

Arab Hissa, Ancient Alabanda. — Ruins. — Demmeerge-Derasy, ancient Alinda. — Tombs. — Ruins. — Passage of the Mountains. — Unknown Ruins. — Mylasa. — Temple of Labranda [?]. — Ancient Remains. — Mausoleum ....

Chapter XVI

Stratoniceia, its Ruins. — Route to Moolah. — Ancient Tombs. — The Pasha. — Longevity. — Change in the Laws. — Detention among the Peasants. — Music. — Dancing. — Customs. — Passage of the River. — Dollomon .....

Chapter XVII

Inconvenience for Want of Corn. — Ancient Tombs. — Customs of the People. — Peculiar Architecture. — Discovery of Calynda. Natural History. — Telmessus. — Tombs, Works of Art. — Peculiar Climate. — Hoozumlee. — Its Inhabitants. — State ofthe Arts CONTENTS. XV PAGE 294 313 328 346 358 among the ancient Lycians. — Discovery of Cadyanda. — Its Ruins. — Valley of the Xanthus. — Hoorahn.— Ancient Tombs and Ruins of Araxa ......

Chapter XVIII

Architecture ; Rocks, Buildings, Cottages, Granaries. — Tlos. — Rocli-tombs. — Ancient Sculpture. — Minara, the Ancient Pinara. — Ruins. — Bas-reliefs in Tombs. — Habits of the People

Chapter XIX

Discovery of Sidyma. — Its Tombs. — Temples. — Natural History. — Lions. — Ancient Fort. — Xanthus. — Sarcophagus-tomb. — Lycian Inscription upon Obelisk. — Ancient Sculptures. — Harpies. — Chariots. ■ — Animals. — Processions. — Tomb. — Customs of the Peasants ......

Chapter XX

Patara. — Coins. — Passage of Mountains. — Discovery of the Ancient Phellus. — Antiphellus. — Its Tombs. — Kastelorizo, the Ancient Megiste. — Jewels and Costume of the Peasantry. — Cassabar. — Ancient Trabala ? — Singular Gorge in the Mountains. — Myra. — Tombs ......

Chapter XXI

Ruins of Myra. — Tombs. — Coloured Bas-reliefs. — Ruins. — Passage of Mountain to Phineka. — Ancient Isium? — Limyra. — Sculptures and Inscription. — Ancient Bridge. — Gagæ. — Excursion by the Promontarium Sacrum to Olympus. — A Deserted Village. — Valley of the Arycandus. — Tombs. — Ruins. — Discovery of Arycanda. — It9 Ruins ......

Chapter XXII

Avelan. — Its Lake. — Extensive Plains. — Disappearance of a River. — Almalee. — Its Population. — Mosques. — Trade. — Site of Ancient City, probably Podalia. — Source of Rivers. — Passage of CONTENTS. PAGE 380 392 401 412 421 157 482 487 505 Mountain. — High Plains. — The Yeeilassies. — Annual Migration of the Tribes. — Valley of the Xanthus. — Macry. — Rhodes. — City of Rhodes. — Sailors. — Lavisse. — Carmylessus. — Return to the Yeeilassies. — Review of Lycia ....

Chapter XXIII

Rhodes. — City of Rhodes. — Sailors. — Lavisse. — Carmylessus. — Return to the Yeeilassies. — Review of Lycia

Chapter XXIV

Gule-Hissa Ovassy. — A Large Lake. — Ancient River Calbis. — Extensive Plains. — Carreeuke. — Its Bazaar. — Price of Cattle. Customs of the People. — Denizlee. — Its Inhabitants. — Change of Law. — Laodiceia. — Hierapohs. — Return to Smyrna . SUPPLEMENTARY CHAPTER. Discoveries derived from the elucidation of the Lycian Inscriptions. — Instructions for future Travellers. — Lists and Examination of Coins ....... The Xanthian Mabbles ; theib Acquisition, and Tbansmission to England ...... Account op the Ionic Tbophy Monument excavated at Xanthus ....... Remaeks poe the Guidance of Teayellees . Appendix Index JOURNAL — ♦ —

Chapter I. Lydia

ABBIVAL AT SMYRNA. — COSTUME. — DESCRIPTION OP THE TOWN. — CASINO BALL. — SLAVE- MABKET. — MANNEBS OP THE PEOPLE. — GBEEK CHUBCH. — ANTIQUITIES. — EGYPTIAN CUSTOMS. — DEPABTUBE FOB MAGNESIA. — CABAVAN BBIDGE. — NATUBAL HISTOBY ON THE WAY. — KHAN AT MAGNESIA.. — JOUBNEY TO THYATIBA, ONE OP THE SEVEN CHUBCHES. — ITS ANTIQUITIES. February 12th, 1838. — I am now in the Frank town of Smyrna, having this everiing set foot for the first time in Asia Minor. The whole of the Greek islands which I have passed since leaving Syra appeared barren and uncultivated, with scarcely a tree to be 3een. As we drew near the coast of Asia Minor, the Bay of Smyrna came in sight, bounded by mountains and woods, all green, rich, and beautiful. The approach to the city is very imposing, and the multitude of httle boats scudding about, though not so picturesque as those of the Italian or Greek isles, have a striking and characteristic effect ; the boats being gaily painted, the men all wearing turbans, and the women concealed in white drapery.

I can scarcely believe that I am in Asia Minor, for my inn (the Navy Hotel) is just like an English public-house. I have heard the guns firing and drums beating on board the B LYDIA. different men-of-war stationed opposite to my window ; and the band of the Sapphire frigate has been playing " God save the Queen," and " Home, sweet Home." February 13th. — On looking out of my window this morning, I found that I was really in the East. I beheld a whole city of Turks, a very gay scene ; but the people struck me as being disgustingly fat. The variety of costume, occasioned by the different orders or sects of the Turks, is quite curious. It would be an endless task to describe the varieties, all very unlike the European ; and nothing but the pencil could convey an idea of the various head-dresses.

I have just seen a man with a turban, which I took for a small sack of flour placed upon his head. The women, although they contrive to have a good view of strangers at a distance, cover up all but one eye as they approach; and some are always thus ensconced, having a horse-hair mask or cowl over the upper part of the face, and the lower part concealed in the same white sheet which covers the rest of the body. The dresses are splendidly embroidered, a Turk thinking it nothing extraordinary to give fifteen or twenty pounds for a jacket. I saw a child whose clothes must have cost sixty or seventy pounds, the embroidery being a mass of gold, and one set of clothes was put over another : the child was not above eight years old, but was probably the pet of some wealthy merchant. The expenditure of the Turks in dress is enormous, and of the Greeks also ; at Syra I saw a celebrated Albanian chief of great wealth in his full dress, which I heard, independently of the jewels, was worth many hundred pounds.

Smyrna is a thickly inhabited town, and the streets are extremely narrow and dirty. The appearance of the people generally seems to me not pleasing; there is no trace of simplicity of manners, but they look as if they had always lived in the bustle of commerce. I do not like any trait in the character of the Turks which I have yet seen ; what a SMYBNA, contrast do they form to the Greeks, who appear all intelli gence, and who arc certainly simple and unaffected ! At Syra a httle boy, eight or nine years of age, acted for an hour as cicerone to our party, and on dismissing him I gave him a piastre, a coin of less value than twopence-halfpenny of our money ; on taking it he looked gravely in my face, and tears glistened in his eyes ; he kissed my hand, and then pressed it to his forehead ; it would require a far larger sum here to obtain such an expression of gratitude.

The town of Smyrna, which I have now viewed from all sides, in situation is beautiful, but in appearance is exactly like a large town of Swiss chalets. The houses are very much alike, and all of wood, with brown roofs and without chimneys. The few tiers of warehouses on the Marina or quay are whitened over, but these also are built of wood, the better to bear the shaking of the earthquakes. I do not think that there is a house more than one story above the ground-floor in the town; the ground-floor is always the bazaar or store-house, the residence being above. The churches, with the exception of the mosques, are like wooden bams, and without tower or belfry. I have been admitted to the Casino or public rooms, where there are papers, card-rooms, and billiards, and invited to a ball there on Monday, previously to which I am to dine with our kind and attentive Consul, Mr. Brant.

I have been in troduced to many Europeans here ; their manners are pe culiar, and not pleasing, displaying the caution of the Eng lish merchant, without the varied acquirements which in England are united with mercantile habits. The Prank people here, having no interest in the country they inhabit, and no voice even in the local government of the town, devote their thoughts wholly to business ; their goods are all the stake they have, and even this interest is limited by the climate and government ; no one has a house of value, for the frequent earthquakes place them in jeopardy ; and ships b2 LYDIA of every nation are constantly stationed here, that, on any outbreak of the Turks or the plague, they may at a moment's notice put all they possess on board. I have inquired of several gentlemen for some ruins discovered about two years ago in or near the town ; some had only heard there were such ruins, others said they were by the Castle Hill, but they had never been to that point, or not for several years past ; yet the Castle Hill is not half a mile from the centre of the city, and is the only point com manding a view of the town or country ; it has consequently been my daily walk.

I have been much surprised by finding really beautiful suites of rooms forming the houses of the gentry here ; they consist of long corridors, opening into apartments generally of excellent proportions ; all these are over the warehouses, and have no rooms above them. The Casino Ball was extremely gay ; many of the women, and particularly the middle-aged and old, wore the Greek costume, which is very elegant, although custom has preju diced me in favour of the n ore compressed waist. The gold embroidered skull-cap, the braided turban of hair blended with flowers and jewels, the velvet jacket, richly embroidered, with the gay mameluke sleeves, form a strikingly beautiful dress. The band from the Sapphire frigate, and the officers in their uniform, added to the gaiety of the room. I came away at about one, but find that most of my friends re mained until five, and some until seven o'clock.

I have had much attention paid to me, and can truly join with all other visitors of Smyrna in acknowledging the hospitality of its inhabitants. Before tbe ball I dined at the Consul's, with a large party of English, principally officers of the army and navy When dinner was over (at about eight o'clock) the Governor of Smyrna sent to knowr if he might pay the Consul a visit, who first asked our consent, and then the Governor was SMYENA. ushered into the room. He takes every opportunity of showing respect to the English, and now came to request to be allowed to go to the ball with the Consul. He is an old, merry-looking fellow, but yet with the appearance of deep cunning. He was dressed for the ball in the very un dress costume of the Turkish Government, — blue cloth clothes and red cap ; but he was distinguished by a splendid locket of diamonds, and rings of the same stone.

As soon as he had, by his interpreter, welcomed us all, his pipe-bearer handed him his pipe, which was of great value, having the mouth-piece of lemon-coloured amber, encircled with dia monds. He refused to drink wine, and persisted in decli ning ; but, fortunately for him, rum and brandy are not ver bally forbidden by the Prophet. The Chief Judge of the town afterwards called, attended by his suite. These two men are despotic, the one condemning and the other exe cuting at his pleasure. The Governor farms his town of the Sultan, paying a certain sum for the year, and makes what he can of the taxes, fees, and fines ; immense fortunes are thus made in a short time, frequently in the most tyrannical way ; but the Governor's power only extends over Asiatics. Life and death are in his hands ; but money will always satisfy him, and he alone has to be satisfied.

With the Slave-market I was not so much shocked as I expected, and noticed that the children seemed healthy and happy. I never saw negroes so black ; their skin was bright, and looked as if it had just been black-leaded and well brushed ; they had beautiful teeth, and the neeks and wrists of the children were ornamented with beads ; there were only thirty or forty slaves in the market, and these all young. The people, from their custom of sitting cross-legged, and having their feet generally bare, make much use of them. I observed the men who were working the lathe, in turning the amber mouth-pieces for the pipes, press the chisel always with the toes, which were applied as quickly and as dexter- LYDIA, ously as the fingers. With all four paws together at work, they rerninded me of the Sun Bears at the Zoological Gar dens eating an orange.

The tailors iron their work by put ting one foot into the iron, and working it about, while with their hands they are arranging the plaits and braiding. The weight carried by the porters in Smyrna is wonderful ; I never saw such burdens borne by men, or men apparently so able to bear them ; the development of muscle in their naked legs amounts almost to deformity. On buying a pair of slippers, I was told that last year they were not above two-thirds of their present price, but that so many workmen died during the last season, that all manufactured articles had become dearer. Pourteen thousand Turks and a thousand persons of other nations are said to have died in Smyrna alone. The children are still brought up in national prejudices ; they hoot aster a European and call him Frank, Frank-dog, and other such epithets.

One httle monkey gave me a smart stroke on the back with his stick, but he was soon laughed into a friendly temper. They are afraid ofthe consequences of their impertinence, and generally secure a retreat behind some doorway before they even call after the stranger. The men are however losing many of these prejudices. To-day, whilst; I was sketching (which is an act forbidden by their rehgion), several Turks came and watched me for half an hour, and expressed their delight at any new object which they recognized. I was putting in some shipping in the distance, and as I drew each vessel, although on an extremely small scale, they told me what ships they were with great satisfaction ; they also recognised several views I had pre viously taken. The society of an infidel is not, as formerly, shunned by the Turk, and their commercial intercourse is daily increasing ; they naturally appear more suspicious of the Greek than 01 other nations.

SMYRNA The annoyances to which a Frank is subject on entering the mosques here are so great, that I shall delay visiting them until I arrive at Constantinople. I see the Turks bare footed, and kneehng round the doors and in the colonnades and lobbies round the mosques ; there is much devotion in their attitudes and appearance. The three classes of people here, the Turks, Jews, and Christians, have each their own Sabbath, — Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. There is in consequence httle observance of any one of the days in the town as a whole. I have witnessed a splendid funeral of a wealthy Greek, in which all the church power was engaged, including the highest authority, an archbishop I believe. In the Greek church the dresses are more splendid than in the Romish, but the whole effect is quite in contrast.

In this church there is not the slightest semblance of devotional feeling, less even than in the Synagogue worship. The priests are ordinary-looking men of the world ; they sing the service in merry time, in a common but rather nasal tone, and look about them as if they were in the crowded streets instead of a place of worship. They are honest-looking men, but have nothing of the priest about them ; a long black beard seemed to be a distinctive part of their costume. There is a great deal of bowing and kissing of hands ; but all the recitations seemed addressed to one another, and I did not see an up lifted eye or any attitude of adoration. There is no altar, and therefore no fixed point for prayer. A candle, which is merely a waxed piece of cotton, is given to every person on entering, and they all keep their hats on during the cere mony.