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The culinary handbook

Charles Fellows · 1904 · Scanned text · Free in the US

167,713 words · about 11 h 45 min to read

Period artwork: Interior of the Bodleian Library, 1845
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About this book

Author
Charles Fellows
Language
English
Published
1904
Length
167,713 words · about 11 h 45 min
Sections
2 reader sections
Text
Scanned text, read from page scans by OCR; may contain errors
Rights
Public domain in the United States

 

Contents (2)
  1. Preface about 10 h 43 min
  2. Index To The Culinary Handbook about 1 h 2 min

Continue:

Preface

This book has been prepared with the aim of gathering into a single volume the largest practicable collection of every day recipes suited to the catering fraternity iu the English language, making it as nearly as possible the choicest and most complete work of its kind.

The name which is given it indicates the principle upon which the book has been made: namely, that it might serve as a book of reference; as a comprehensive exhibit of the growth, and condition of the requirements of the traveling public.

The work is not a cook book, and does not pretend to teach cookery, yet to those that have already received the fundamental ideas of cookery, it will be found to be the best theoretical teacher obtainable, as it clearly shows what the combinations of the dishes are and what they look like, and how they should be served.

Necessarily limited in extent, it yet contains more practical matter than any similar publication, presenting over four thousand selections. It is believed that of the culinary writers for the catering profession acknowledged by the intelligent and cultivated to be great, none, whether Foreign cr American have heretofore written the dishes in plain English without the foreign affectation of "A LA", an affectation when appearing on the Bill of Fare causing the guest to expect much, and disappointing him by receiving little.

The dusty road traveled so much by other writers in making their books contain five times as many pages as are necessary has been avoided, and we hope that one of the special merits of this volume is its brevity.

With these brief explanations, The Culinary Handbook is placed before the catering fraternity, with the hope that it will be deemed worthy of its title.

The Author.

*

THE CULINARY HANDBOOK.

ABSINTHE — A liqueur made principally from wormwood, anise, angelica, coriander seeds and alcohol, sometimes adulterated with aromatic resins and dangerous colorings; its uses are chiefly as a drink diluted with water, and in making many of the American mixed drinks.

ACETIC ACID — The foundation of all vinegars; used by confectioners when making icing from whites of eggs,. to facilitate the beating.

AERATED WATERS— Such as Vichy, Apollinaris, Carlsbad water, Friedrichshall bitter, etc., are obtained from the springs of nature and recommended for the relief and cure of different complaints of the human system. Imitation aerated waters mostly contain sugar, and are sold as pop, such as ginger ale, sarsaparilla, etc. The artificial waters are simply pure waters sweetened, flavored and charged with carbonic acid gas. In Paris oyster shells are washed, and broken into small pieces, and, under the action of vitriol, yield the carbonic acid gas.

ALBUMEN — An opaque fluid found plentifully in eggs, meats, fish and succulent vegetables, especially asparagus. It is the most nourishing substance known; used in its raw state from whites of eggs by cooks chiefly in clarifying purposes.

ALCOHOL — A colorless liquid obtained from fermenting sugar; is found in all wines and spirits and is the intoxicating quality of them. It is largely used in making flavoring extracts, by diluting the oil of the flavor required with the alcohol. Wood alcohol obtained at any drug store is the best and cleanest material to be used in singeing poultry and game.

ALLIGATOR PEAR— A fruit found in the West Indies and Mexico, but can be bought at most of the fruit stores in season; the large green ones are the best; they are served the same as canteloupes, or sliced into a salad seasoned with pepper, salt and the juice of a lime.

ALLSPICE — The product of the pimento shrub, used as a food flavoring. When ground it has a graining of a ruby coloring; purchased in its ground state, is often adulterated with mustard husks.

A.LMONDS— The best for culinary purposes is the Jordan; it is about an inch long, flat with a clear brown skin, sweet and rather tough. In making almond soup seven-eighths sweet and one-eighth bitter almonds should be used.

SALTED ALMONDS— Made by blanching, skinning, and frying them in butter oil till nicely browned, then dusting with salt; make a nice appetizer, or hors d'oeuvre.

DEVILLED ALMONDS— Made like salted almonds, but after salting, well dusted with cayenne pepper.

ALUM — A white astringent salt, often used to whiten flour, to quickly clear gin, to improve the color of inferior red wines.

ANCHOVIES — The Dutch are always cleaned of their scales. The French are not, and are larger. Anchovy paste bought on the markets is often adulterated with red-ochre and Venitian red.

ANCHOVY CANAPES— Slices of fried bread, one-quaiter inch thick, spread with anchovy paste or butter, a filleted anchovy on top, the edges decorated with minced whites of hard boiled egg.

ANCHOVY AIGRETTES— Filleted anchovies washed, then laid for three hours in a pickle of olive oil, vinegar and red pepper; taken up, drained, dipped in batter and fried a light color in very hot fat; served garnished with lobster coral and sprigs of parsley.

ANCHOVY TOAST— Slices of toast spread with a mixture made of three-fifths essence of anchovies, one-fifth grated Parmesan cheese, and one-fifth minced filleted anchovies and chopped parsley.

ANCHOVY ALUMETTES— Preserved anchovies in oil, drained, rolled in very thin pie paste, fried; served garnished with fried parsley.

ANCHOVY FRITTERS — Filleted anchovies coiled up, dipped in batter and fried a light color in hot fat; served garnished with fried parsley.

ANCHOVY TARTINES— Circles of brown bread spread with anchovy paste, decorated with thinly sliced gherkins alternately with white of hard boiled egg.

THE CULINARY HANDBOOK.

ANCHOVY BASKETS— Hard boiled eggs, part of the white cut away to form an oval basket, yolks removed and pounded to a paste with anchovy essence, seasoned with lemon juice and cayenne pepper, colored lightly with carmine or cochineal, baskets refilled; served garnished with watercress.

ANCHOVY CROUTONS— A paste of three-fifths anchovy essence, one-fifth grated cheese and one-fifth melted butter and lemon juice, the paste spread on fancy cut slices of fried bread; served with a coiled anchovy on top.

ANCHOVY SANDWICH— Thin slices of bread cut into shape of circles, spread with the preceding mixture, and filleted anchovies laid between.

ANCHOVIES WITH OLIVES— Anchovy toast garnished with slices of stuffed olives.

ANCHOVY CANAPES, BERNE — Triangle shaped pieces of fried bread, spread with anchovy paste or butter, the edges garnished with minced whites of hard boiled eggs, minced yolks, and minced green pickles, with a stuffed olive in the center.

ANCHOVY BUTTER— Two parts of butter to one part of anchovy essence, a little grated Parmesan cheese and nutmeg, thoroughly mixed together.

ANCHOVY PASTE— Anchovi;s filleted, the fillets rubbed through a fine sieve, the head and bones boiled with a little water and thickened with flour, strained into the paste obtained from the rubbing, mixed; when cooled, a little cochineal, walnut catsup, and vinegar added to give the required color and consistency.

ANCHOVY SAUCE— Anchovy paste or butter worked into a rich brown sauce, or some pounded filleted anchovies, or anchovy essence, lemon juice and cayenne pepper worked into a cream or butter sauce.

ANCHOVY CREAM— Anchovy paste worked into a butter sauce, and finished w-ith whipped cream.

ANCHOVY STUFFING- Used very often for stuffing olives and small game birds. One cupful of breadcrumbs squeezed out of milk, one tablespoonful of minced fried onions, four minced fillets of anchovies, one teaspoonful each of minced capers and chopped parsley, the whole mixed; if used for stuffing birds, add the birds liver minced.

ANCHOVIES POTTED— Anchovy fillets pounded and rubbed through a sieve, mixed with ground allspice and cayenne pepper to taste, placed into small jars, pressed down, and one-eighth of an inch of melted lard poured over the top, to seal the contents.

ANCHOVY SALAD— Shredded fillets of salted anchovies garnished with small white pickled onions, capers and hard boiled eggs; tarragon vinegar sprinkled over the anchovies. Also shredded lettuce and shredded anchovies, a few minced shallots, all mixed together dry, then sprinkled with equal parts of olive oil and caper vinegar beaten together.

ANCHOVY CATSUP— Anchovies, onions, whole cloves, mace, peppers and ginger, sugar and old ale, brought to a quick boil, then slowly simmered till done, strained through a hair sieve, cooled, walnut catsup added; bottled for use.

ANCHOVY FRITTERS— Thin flour pancakes spread with chicken forcemeat, cut in strips twice the size of anchovy fillet, which is laid on one-half of the strip, the other half folded over, then breaded and fried; served garnished with fried parsley.

ANCHOVY OMELET— Beaten eggs seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, made into an omelet, the center enclosing some cooked fillets of anchovies; served with equal Darts of tomato and espagnole sauces mixed togetner.

ANGEL FOOD— A light, white, kind of sponge cake.

ANGELICA — A green preserved stalk resembling rhubarb, used to decorate cakes, also in iced puddings, ice creams, etc.

ANILINE — A chemical product of petroleum; the red is the cheapest and best for culinary purposes, besides being perfectly harmless.

ANISE — An herb, from the seeds of which is extracted the oil of anise; a liqueur called anisette is made from the oil; a small proportion of oil of anise mixed with alcohol, produces essence of aniseed, used in flavoring cakes and confectionery.

ANTELOPE — A species of deer; the young are best for culinary purposes, as the meat, besides being treated in all the same ways as venison, is light enough in color to allow of being larded, which cannot be done to venison. Red meats should never be larded, on account of their loss of blood and gravy in cooking.

APPLES — About twelve really good kinds are obtainable by the steward, for hotel purposes — Pound sweets, King, Baldwins, Spitzenbergs, Northern spy, Rhode Island greenings, Golden pippins, Johnathans, Wine saps, Snow, Shiawasse beauty, Roxbury russets, Wageners. There are others, but these are among the first rank.

APPLE BAVAROISE— Apple sauce, flavored with sherry wine and lemon juice, with enough gelatine added to set it, the whole passed through a hair sieve, whipped cream stirred in according to quantity liked, then poured into molds and allowed to set till firm; served with whipped cream.

APPLE BUTTER — Peeled apples boiled down in cider to a pulp with a flavor of allspice, the pulp then passed through a fine strainer.

APPLES BAKED— Good firm apples cored, the core hole filled with a mixture of butter and sugar flavored with nutmeg, then placed into a pan containing a little water, and baked till done.

APPLE CAKE — Apple sauce and an equal quan-

THE CULINARY HANDBOOK.

tity of batter of the consistency of cream, made served with a sauce of flour, milk, eggs and sugar, mixed together APPLES, PORTUGESE STYLE and baked slowly till done; when nearly done, the top dusted with sugar, returned to oven to get a glazed appearance.

APPLE CHEESECAKES — Patty pans lined with puff paste, filled with apple marmalade

Firm apples cored, peeled and simmered in a thin syrup till barely done, taken out, drained, the core hole filled with apricot jam, placed on a dish, the syrup then reduced to a glaze, and poured over them.

containing a little grated lemon rind and enough APPLE MERINGUE— Apple pulp in a dish, a yolks of eggs to set.

APPLE CHARLOTTE— The bottom and sides of a pan or mold lined with thin slices of buttered bread, the interior filled with thick apple marmalade, the top covered with slices of buttered bread half an inch thick dipped in a mixture of milk and eggs, the charlotte then baked a fine color, turned out and served with whipped cream.

APPLE CHUTNEY— A pint and a half of vinegar, two ounces of whole ginger bruised, one ounce of chillies, one ounce of mustard seed, two ounces of salt, twelve ounces of sugar, boiled slowly for forty-five minutes, then strained through a hair sieve; when cooled the vinegar thus flavored put on again with a large onion minced, one and one-half ounces of minced shallots, two ounces of sultana raisins, and two and one-half pounds of peeled and sliced apples, the whole boiled till apples are pulpy, then placed into stone jars and tied down with skin.

APPLE CREAM — Sweet apple sauce, containing

a little butter and whipped whites of egg. APPLE CROQUETTES— Thick apple marmalade containing soft breadcrumbs and egg yolks baked till set. When cold, cut in strips two inches long and one inch thick, breaded, fried, and served with orange sauce.

APPLE CUSTARD— Apple marmalade mixed with beaten eggs and cream, poured into a pan or dish, and baked till set.

APPLE DUMPLINGS— Cored and peeled apples enclosed in pie paste, baked, boiled or steamed till done, served with a sauce or with cream.

APPLE FLOAT — Cream sweetened and flavored with nutmeg poured in a dish or pan; apple marmalade containing whipped whites of egg, poured in the centre; baked till set. APPLE FRITTERS— Slices of cored apples, dipped in batter and fried till done; served with a syrup or wine sauce.

APPLE PIE — Thin slices of apples, sweetened and spiced, enclosed between an upper and lower crust of pie paste; baked till done. APPLE ICE — Apple marmalade flavored with orange juice, thinned with water, sweetened to taste, poured into a freezer and froze. APPLE CUSTARD PIE— A pie dish lined with puff paste, filled with apple marmalade mixed with cream and yolks of eggs; baked till set. APPLE CUSTARD FRITTERS— Apple marmalade mixed with custard, baked till set; when cooled, cut in slices, breaded, fried and layer of fruit marmalade spread on it, whipped whites of egg and sugar, tastefully spread over all, then placed in oven till of a light fawn color .

APPLE TART— A pie plate lined with puff paste with a raised fancy edge to it; filled two-thirds full with apple marmalade and baked; when done, filled up with a boiled custard, the interior edge piped round with meringue, also a fancy centre; returned to oven till of a fawn color.

APPLE SOUP — Minced cooking apples, grated breadcrumbs, and water each one part, a piece of lemon rind and a flavoring of cinnamon, boiled till thoroughly done, the whole then passed through a fine strainer, and enough white wine added to form a soup consistency. APPLE PANCAKES- -Minced apples worked into an ordinary wheat pancake mixture, the pancakes baked in the usual way, and served with butter and sugar.

APPLE SHORTCAKE— Two layers of cooked shortpaste spread between with apple marmalade, the top ornamented with whipped cream; served with sweetened and flavored cream. APPLE COMPOTE— Cored and pared apples simmered in a boiling syrup till thoroughly done, remaining whole.

APPLE ROLY POLY— A biscuit dough containing a little sugar, rolled out thin, spread with minced apples, seasoned with grated lemon rind, cinnamon, or ground cloves according to taste, rolled up, the ends tucked in, tied in a cloth for boiling (in a mold for steaming) (in a pan for baking); served with a sauce, or with sweetened cream.

APPLES FRIED— Good firm apples, peeled, cored, cut in slices half an inch thick, then dipped in milk, rolled in flour, and fried in very hot lard.

APPLE JOHNNY CAKE— Slices of peeled and cored apples in a buttered baking dish, sweetened and flavored, a pancake batter poured over them; baked till done and served with or without currant jelly.

APPLE MARMALADE— Sweetened apple sauce boiled down till thick enough to cling to a spoon. APPLE PUDDING— Basins or molds lined with a suet crust, filled with slices of apples, sweetened and flavored to taste, top crust put on, the basin tied over with a cloth, or mold cover placed on and tied, boiled rapidly till done. APPLE PUFFS— Minced apples fried a little so as not to break, flavored with cinnamon and sugar, placed on squares of puff paste, the

THE CULINARY HANDBOOK.

edges brought to a top centre and pinched together, brushed over with beaten egg and baked.

APPLE COBBLER— A pan one and a half inches deep lined with a pie paste, filled with apple marmalade, top crust put on, baked and glazed, served with sweetened and flavored cream, or with whipped cream.

APPLE TIMBALE— A timbale mold lined with strips of short paste, filled with apple marmalade, covered with a crust, baked or steamed till paste is set, turned out, served with apricot sauce, and garnished with preserved cherries.

APPLES GLAZED— Cored and peeled apples of an even size simmered in lemon syrup till just done, taken out, placed on a dish, the syrup reduced till thick, then poured over the apples; when cooled, decorated with angelica and cherries.

APPLE FLORENTINE— Apples cored and simmered till half done, in syrup, taken out, drained, the core hole filled with sweetened rice, the outside coated with a vanilla flavored chestnut puree; made hot again in oven and served with a sprinkling of chopped pistachio nuts.

APRICOTS ON TOAST— Stewed apricots on sweetened toast, garnished with whipped cream (called apricots au crouton).

APRICOTS AND RICE FRITTERS— Half an apricot, the other half formed of rice croquette mixture, put together, breaded, fried and served with apricot sauce (called apricots a la Colbert).

APRICOTS WITH RICE— Stewed or canned apricots in syrup, bordered with sweetened rice, whipped cream over the apricots, sprinkled with chopped pistachio nuts (called apricots a la Conde).

APRICOT BAVAROISE— Stiff apricot marmalade with whipped cream containing a little gelatine mixed in, filled into molds, set till firm, turned out on a dish, and the edge piped around with whipped cream.

APRICOT CHARLOTTE— A pan or mold lined with lady fingers, strips of buttered bread or toast, filled with stewed apricots, covered with the same material as the lining, baked, turned out, and served with a fruit sauce

APRICOT COBBLER— (Sometimes called "Apricots D'Artois.") Two sheets of puff paste baked, one spread with apricot marmalade, the other laid on top, then cut in squares, diamonds or with a fancy shaped cutter, the edge ornamented with piped meringue, dried in the oven to a straw color, the centre of top decorated with jelly.

APRICOT COMPOTE— Apricots simmered in thick syrup till done, served with the syrup they were cooked in.

APRICOT CHARTREUSE— A centre jelly mold decorated at bottom with stiffened cream, sides coated with jelly, halves of cooked apricots fancifully placed around the mold, these again coated with jelly, the mold then filled with jelly, set, turned out, and the centre filled with Bavarian cream.

APRICOTS IN CASES— Fresh apricots halved, stoned, simmered in raspberry syrup, served in rice cases with angelica sauce.

APRICOT FRITTERS— Halves of apricots or spoonfuls of apricot marmalade laid on a thin circle of paste, another circle placed on top, edges pinched together, trimmed, fried till done. Also halves of apricots laid in diluted brandy and sugar for half an hour, then dipped in batter, fried, dusted with sugar, and served with a syrup sauce.

APRICOT PATTIES OR VOL-AU-VENTS— Very light patty shells, nearly filled with apricot marmalade, finished by filling and decorating with whipped cream.

APRICOT MARMALADE OR JAM— Raw apricots stoned and rubbed through a sieve. To every oound of the pulp is added ten ounces of sugar with a few of the kernels blanched and skinned; boiled till thick enough to coat a spoon.

APRICOT SHERBET— Apricots boiled in syrup; when done rubbed through a fine sieve, the syrup and pulp then poured into a freezer and frozen; when nearly done, a flavoring of maraschino and some whipped whites of eggs are added, then frozen five minutes.

APRICOT SAUCE — Water, sugar, apricots, lemon juice and a little grated orange rind, boiled, thickened with corn starch, then rubbed through a fine strainer.

APRICOT TARTLETTES — Small tartlette molds lined with puff paste, filled with apricot marmalade, baked; when done, the edges decorated with crystalized cherries, and the center piped with whipped cream.

APRICOT OMELET— Beaten eggs with a flavoring of vanilla made into an omelet, the inside enclosing some apricot marmalade or compote, omelet then placed on dish, dusted with sugar, marked with a hot wire, or glazed under a salamander.

ARTICHOKES — Are of two kinds, the green or globe, and the Jerusalem. The globe is sometimes used for salads, and served with a French dressing hot with pepper; also boiled plain and served with any of the sauces appropriate to cauliflower. The Jerusalem resembles a rough knobbly potato.

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS BRAISED — Artichoke bottoms filled with chicken forcemeat, braised, served on a crouton, with a rich brown or mushroom sauce poured around.

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH FORCE- MEAT — Artichoke bottoms spread with a puree of onions and rice mixed together, filled up with forcemeat, sprinkled with grated cheese and breadcrumbs, arranged in a pan, moistened with consomme and browned in the oven.

THE CULINARY HANDBOOK.

Served with cream onion sauce around (called Artichokes a la Soubise.)

ARTICHOKE EOTTOMS WITH FOIE GRAS — Artichoke bottoms spread with a mixture of foie-gras and minced truffles, covered with a reduced white mushroom sauce, grated bread crumbs sprinkled over, then browned in the oven; served with a truffle sauce poured around, (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a la Strasbourg.)

ARTICHOKE FRITTERS —Cooked artichoke bottoms seasoned, breaded, or dipped in batter and fried in very hot lard; or mashed Jerusalem artichokes mixed with egg yolks, and sea" soned with nutmeg, taken up by spoonfuls and fried.

ARTICHOKE CHIPS — Jerusalem artichokes peeled and cut into very thin slices with a Saratoga chip cutter, placed in cold salted water for an hour, taken up a few at a time, dried, then fried in very hot fat, drained, sprinkled with salt.

ARTICHOKES AU GRATIN— Same as artichokes scalloped. Artichoke bottoms cut in slices and mixed with Bechamel sauce, may be used.

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH RAGOUT— Artichoke bottoms filled with a mixture of diced truffles, mushrooms, tongue and breast of chicken, all mixed with Allemande sauce, a thin layer of chicken forcemeat placed on top f sprinkled with grated bread-crumbs and cheese, then browned, (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a la Montglas.)

GLOBE ARTICHOKES, COLBERT SAUCE— Globe artichokes trimmed and the choke re" moved, parboiled in salted water, drained' cooled, then arranged in a sauce pan with a little butter, white wine and consomme; simmered till done and glazy; served with Colbert sauce poured around (called, Artichokes a la Lyonnaise).

GLOBE ARTICHOKES STUFFED— Globe artichokes trimmed and the choke removed, the bottoms fried quickly in olive oil for three minutes, turned over and the leaves fried a minute, taken up and drained, the interior filled with a savory stuffing of meat, herbs and bread-crumbs; arranged in a sautoir, then covered with thin slices of bacon, equal parts of white wine and consomme, simmered till tender, taken up, drained, the braise reduced to a glaze, skimmed and added to an Italian sauce; served with the sauce poured around (called, Artichokes a la Barigoule).

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH ONIONS— Artichoke bottoms filled with a mixture of fried onions, bread-crumbs, and Parmesan cheese, sprinkled with lemon juice, then browned in the oven; served with a brown sauce poured around (called, Fonds d'Artichauts a l'ltalienne).

SCALLOPED ARTICHOKES— Jerusalem artichokes cut to shape of oysters, boiled in salted water till tender, taken up and drained, then put in scallop shells or dishes, covered with anchovy sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese and bread-crumbs, then browned in the oven.

ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS STUFFED —Artichoke bottoms filled with forcemeat, covered with supreme sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese and bread-crumbs, browned in the oven, and served with sauce Supreme (called Fonds d"Artichauts a la Supreme.)

ARTICHOKE OMELET— Thin strips of the tender part of the globe artichoke seasoned with salt and pepper, lightly fried in butter, drained, added to beaten eggs containing chopped parsley, made into an omelet; served with cream sauce poured around the omelet.

ARTICHOKES WITH EGG— Artichoke bottoms boiled, served on toast, garnished with quartered hard boiled eggs, and maitre d'hotel butter poured over the artichokes.

ARTICHOKES BOILED — Globe artichokes, the tips of the leaves cut and the bottoms rounded, the stalk removed and the under leaves trimmed away; well washed and soaked in salted water for an hour, placed in boiling salted water, and boiled rapidly till tender, taken up, drained, the choke removed, served with melted butter, or sauces appropriate to cauliflower.

ARTICHOKES, FAMILY STYLE— Jerusalem artichokes peeled and trimmed to the shape of pears with a flat bottom, boiled in salted water till tender; a dish of mashed potatoes, artichokes placed around it point upwards, and a boiled Brussels sprout placed between each artichoke.

ARTICHOKE SOUP — Globe artichokes parboiled in salted water, the choke, edible part and leaves rubbed through a sieve, the puree thus obtained one part; cream of chicken soup, one part; onion cream sauce one part, all incorporated, and boiling milk added to obtain the desired consistency of thin cream.

ARTICHOKE AND ONION SALAD — Artichoke bottoms and onions both cooked and sliced, dished alternately, garnished with cooked beets and carrots cut with a fancy cutter; served either with French dressing or salad cream.

ARTICHOKE AND TOMATO SALAD— Cooked artichoke bottoms and raw sliced peeled tomatoes, same size as the bottoms, arranged alternately on dish, sprinkled with French dressing containing chopped chervil.

ASPARAGUS— Is of two kinds, the red and green; the red is large, thick and full; the green is smaller, with a whitish stalk and green head, of delicate flavor.

ASPARAGUS STEWED— Asparagus heads, also the tender part of the stalks cut into inch lengths, blanched, drained, then simmered till tender in a butter sauce, finished by adding a liason of egg yolks and cream.

THE CULINARY HANDBOOK.

ASPARAGUS, SAUCE HOLLANDAISE— Asparagus heads with all the tender part of the stalk attached, boiled in boiling water containing a small piece of common washing soda and salt till done, a piece of toast placed on a dish, the asparagus stalks resting on the toast with the heads in the dish, Hollandaise sauce poured over the heads.

ASPARAGUS — Cooked like the preceding may also be served with plain melted butter, cream, veloute, mousseline or bechamel sauce; also, after cooking, allowed to become cold, and served without toast, but with either tartare vinaigrette or mayonnaise sauce.

ASPARAGUS OMELET — Asparagus tips blanched and drained, then fried lightly in butter, surplus butter poured off and a little cream sauce added; omelet mixture containing chopped parsley formed, enclosing a spoonful of the asparagus, placed on a dish and a spoonful of asparagus placed at each end.

ASPARAGUS POINTS WITH QUENELLES — Asparagus points and about two inches of the stalk boiled, drained, laid on toast, bordered with small quenelles of chicken, and Hollandaise sauce poured over the tips.

ASPARAGUS SOUP— Asparagus heads blanched drained and lightly fried with minced shallots in butter, then laid aside, the stalks boiled in veal or chicken broth till tender, a little white roux added, then rubbed through a sieve and mixed with equal parts of veloute and cream sauce, brought to a simmer, the heads now added and served.

ASPARAGUS PUREE— Asparagus points and the tender part of the stalks blanched and drained, lightly fried in butter with some minced shallots, green onions, parsley and a little sugar, turned into chicken broth, brought to a boil, thickened with white roux, the whole rubbed through a sieve, spinach juice added to help give a greenish color, seasoned and served.

ASPARAGUS SALAD— Two inch lengths with the head of cold boiled asparagus served on a leaf of lettuce with a cream salad dressing.

ASPARAGUS AND SALMON SALAD — A spoonful of ice cold salmon en mayonnaise garnished with asparagus tips in French dressing

ASPARAGUS AND CAULIFLOWER SALAD — Cooked cauliflower in flowerets garnished with asparagus tips, served sprinkled with chopped capers and cream salad dressing.

ASPARAGUS PATTIES — Cooked asparagus heads and mushrooms in equal parts mixed with veloute sauce, patty shells filled with the mixture, tops placed on; served with a sauce mousseline poured around the base.

ASPARAGUS WITH CHEESE— Cooked asparagus heads seasoned with salt and pepper, placed in a vegetable dish, equal parts of butter and grated parmesan cheese pounded together with a seasoning of cayenne pepper and lemon juice, the asparagus covered with the cheese and butter, browned in the oven and served.

ASPIC — The name given to a clear savory jelly made from meat, and is used to decorate entrees, pies, hams, tongues, game, pigs' heads, salads, prawns, vegetables, fish, etc.

ASPIC JELLY— Plenty of veal knuckles, calf's feet boned and blanched, and a fowl or two are covered with clear water, fetched slowly to a boil, skimmed, a little cold water then added, again brought to the boil and skimmed, carrots, onions, celery, parsley, a little garlic, bay leaves, thyme, mace and whole peppers are then added and simmered slowly for six hours, fat taken off, then strained through a consomme towel, allowed to become quite cold and all fat removed, then placed over a quick fire, brought to the boil, skimmed, removed to cool off a little; while cooling, gelatine at the rate of two ounces to the gallon is added; some lean veal is now chopped fine and mixed with some whipped whites of eggs and egg shells, also a bottle of white wine, this mixture poured into the cooling stock and allowed to come to a slow boil; when just at boiling point a little ice water containing lemon juice is put in, and as soon as coagulation takes place it is drawn to one side and allowed to simmer slowly for an hour longer, then strained through a jelly bag and set away for use.

ATELETTE — Is a skewer generally made of silver or plated metal, and is used to decorate hot and cold pieces for banquet tables; combinations on the skewer according to the dish and the fancy of the cook can be made of cockscombs, button mushrooms, crayfish, prawns, animelles (lamb-fries) carrots, turnips, green peas, parsley, truffles, sweetbreads, crystallized fruits, preserved violets, cherries, strawberries, sweet jelly, aspic jelly, etc., etc.

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