Journal of a Winter's Tour in India: with a visit to the Court of Nepaul

Preface

. I have but Uttle to say by way of introduction. The journal from which the contents of the foUowing pages are taken, was written during a voyage to India and * Ceylon and back, which, though undistinguished by any exciting adventures, was exceedingly agreeable to my companions and myself, and was performed with hardly more inconvenience or difficulty than usuaUy accompany voyages in less distant lands. As a sketch, how ever, of the everyday Use of tourists in our eastern empire, the book may perhaps not be unacceptable to the general reader, and as such, I venture to lay it before the pubUc. JtTSE, 1852. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

Embarkation for India — The Passage — The Transit — Suez, the Red Sea, and Aden — Arrival in Ceylon . . . . 1

Chapter II

Point de Galle and its Inhabitants — The Road to Colombo — Colombo — Colombo to Kandy — The Bridge over the Maha welliganga — Kandy — The Temple, its Guardians and its Contents — Cingalese Music — Lady Horton's Walk — The Botanical Garden — Muttna Pattna — The Road to Pusolawa — Coffee Plantation — Scenery and Climate at Pusolawa — Newera Ellia — Ascent of the Mountain of Pedro Dallagalla — Unsuccessful Elephant Hunt — Return to Kandy 29

Chapter III

Our Party separates — The Road to Matele and Dambool — Cingalese Rest-houses and Roads — The Rock Temples of Dambool — Habboorene — A Jungle Path — Encampment at Minera — A Buffalo Hunt — Talipot House — Scenery at Minera — Wild Elephants — Determine to push for Trincomalee — Shoot two Buffaloes — Remains of Ancient Buildings at Caudelly — Rejoin the Highroad to Trincomalee — Embankment and Ancient Sluice at Kandellai — Arrival at Trincomalee CONTENTS. V

Chapter IV

PAGl Obstacles to our intended Sea Voyage — Alteration of Route — Trincomalee — The Lover's Leap — The Harbour and its Defences — H.M.S. "Salamander" — Stories of Elephant Hunters — Departure — Our Steeds — Return to Kandy — A Cingalese Lady — Arrival at Colombo, and Return to Point de Galle — Arrival of the "Hindostan" — A Few Words about Ceylon ........ 102

Chapter V

Passage to Madras — The Surf and Massoolah Boats — The Madras Club — The Esplanade — General Appearance of the Town— Re-embarkation and Departure for Calcutta — Arrival off the "Sandheads" — The Hooghly — Garden Reach — First Impressions of Calcutta — The Bengal Club — Chowringhee and the Maidan — Indian Servants — Mosquitoes — The Cathedral — Government House — Arabs and Walers — Calcutta Carriages — A Mesmerist — First Experience of Palankeen Travelling — The TJaces — Shops — The Promenade of Calcutta — A Native Visitor — The Mint and the Cossipore Foundry — Revolting Scene on the River Side — Preparations for Departure . . 123

Chapter VI

Scenery on the River — Barrackpore — The Garden and the Menagerie — Separation of our Party — Palankeen Travelling — A Bad Night — Scenery — Burdwan — Dak Bungalow — The Road, and the Travellers thereon — Parasnath- Dangerous Vicinity — Bengal Officials and their Suite — Quit the Delhi Road — Arrival at Gyah — Picturesque Scene— The Lady and the Tiger— Arrival at Patna . 118

Chapter VII

Patna— Ferry across the Ganges — Moozufferpore — The Tirhoot — Mootypore — First View of the Himalayas — The 10th Bengal Irregulars -An Indian Pic-nic — Enter the Nepau- CONTENTS. VI PAGE lese Territories — Camp at Bassowlia — The Tirhaj — Abandonment of our Palkees — Quit the Plains for the Hill Country — Our Encampment at Hetowra — " March ing" — The Sessipani Pass — Fortress of Seesighurri — Method of Hunting — Troops on the March — Change in the Character of the Scenery and Domestic Architecture — Attention of the Officials — The Chundagiri Pass — Mag nificent View — Descent into the Valley of Nepaul — Durbar Horses — The Valley of Nepaul — Arrival at Khatmandoo — Singular Scene — The Residency . . . . . .164

Chapter VIII

Singular Laws — Ducks — Irrigation — Push-Putty — Great Buddhist Temple — A Queen under " Surveillance " — The ancient City of Patan — The Arsenal — Temples of Sumbhoo Nath — Bhootias — Reception at Court — A Walk in Khatmandoo 193

Chapter IX

A Dinner and a Review — Visit to the House of Jung Bahadoor — Another Feast — Cover Shooting — Nepaulese Polities — Our last Walk in the Valley of Nepaul — Start from Khatmandoo — The Passes and the Road — Meeting with the High Priest of Nepaul — The Cook and his Kitchen — Meeting with Jung Bahadoor — His Suite and his Escort — A Disappointment 219

Chapter X

Quit the Nepaulese Territories — Segowlee — The 10th Bengal Irregular Cavalry — Chuppra — Ferry across the Ganges — Buxsar — Ghazeepore and its Stud — Scene at Sunset — Arrival at Benares — A Shop and its Owner — The Streets — Ancient Observatory — Temples and Minarets — Scene on the River — Site of the late Explosion— The College — A Court of Justice — The Gaol and the Lunatic Asylum — Departure for Allahabad CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XI

_ AQl Palkee Truck Dak — Bridge of Boats— Arrival at Allahabad — The Fort— Tomb of Khosroo Sultan — Road to Cawnpore and Lucknow — College of Lamartiniere — Anecdotes of Wolves — A Drive about Luckuow — The Old Palace— The Streets and the People — Tombs of Assaf-u-Doulah and Hussein — An Illumination — A Hunting Party — The "Choke" LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. — ♦ — PAGE ANCIENT OBSERVATORY AT DELHI .... Frontispiece. ALEXANDRIA 1 POINT DE GALLE 28 CAUDELLY 69 ADAM'S PEAK, FROM THE "GALLE FACE," COLOMBO . . 101 native carriage — Calcutta 147 BRIDGE IN NEPAUL 192 A DOOLY, NEPAUL 218 ON THE GANGES 276 AT ALEXANDRIA JOURNAL ALEXANDRIA.

Chapter I

Embarkation for India — The Passage — The Transit — Suez, the Red Sea, and Aden — Arrival iu Ceylon. Southampton, Saturday, Oct. 19, 1850. — As usual, afraid of being too late, I find myself too early, coohng my heels about Southampton with nothing to do but to stare into shop windows, and to look at the shipping in the docks. The luggage part of the business, thus far, seems to be well managed, without any sort of trouble to the owners. The train brings one down within a few yards of the VOL. I. E SOUTHAMPTON DOCKS. [chap. I. dock in which the steamer is lying. One's traps are put on a truck and tumbled off to the wharf, a smaU sum being paid at the dockyard gate for por terage and dock charges. At the wharf the luggage is weighed, the cabin luggage separated from that intended to be stowed away in the hold, the bUl for extra weight paid, and one may either take up one 's residence on board, or march off with one 's carpet bag to an hotel.

I chose the latter, and went to tlie Dolphin, where we had ordered rooms, by no means an unnecessary proceeding about the date of the sailing of the India Mail steamers. Whilst waiting for my future companions, I strolled about the docks which contained our vessel, the " Ripon," and a number of other steamers, large and smaU, principally those belonging to the West India MaU, and Peninsular and Oriental Companies. Two or three merchant vessels and a large American steamer, the "Washington," were also in the docks ; the latter is to saU to-morrow for New York, at the same time as we start for Alexandria. Whilst I was wandering about the docks, talking to an old soi disant man-of-war's man, whom I had faUeninwith, and who amused himself by predicting the destruc tion of aU large steamers by the sea's breaking all CHAP. I.] MOMENT OF DEPARTURE. 3 their backs; the West India Mail steamer, the " Thames," came in very unexpectedly, a triumph for the new route.

In the evening, I feU hi with Captain Peel, who is to be our feUow passenger as far as Alexandria, and by eight o'clock was joined by Grosvenor and Frederick Leveson, and by Lord Frederick Fitzroy, who is going out to be aide de-camp to the new Commander-in-chief in India, Sir WUUam Gomm. Sunday, Oct. 20. — After an early breakfast, we were joined by some friends who had come down to see us off. We aU went on board the " Ripon," winch was lying alongside the wharf with her steam up. The " Washington " was also smoking away, and another smaU steamer was ha the act of starting, so that the docks seemed busy enough for a Sunday morning. The decks were crowded with people, either passengers, or come to see their friends off. The mail comes down attended by several cocked hats, and officials under them.

It is embarked in a series of boxes ; the beU rings for aU non-passengers to go ashore ; great lamentations from some, great shoutings from others ; everybody in the way of aU the hawsers, which are at last cast off and away we go, preceded by the " Washington." The 2b [chap. I- 4 DINNER ARRANGEMENTS. weather was fine, and the water smooth, always a good thing to begin with, and we passed the Needles soon after twelve o'clock, stopping there for a few minutes to send away the pUot, and one or two others, who, by making interest with him to give them a passage ashore, had contrived to accompany theh friends thus much further on their voyage. That done, away we went, steaming down channel at a respectable, but not a great rate, about 85- knots. This increased towards dark, the wind drawing aft, and square saUs and studding-saUs being set.

At dinner we formed our own clique; our party, with Peel and sundry acquaintances, sitting opposite one another, on either side of the narrow table. These seats we are supposed to keep at breakfast and dinner all the way to Alexandria, and as nearly as possible corresponding ones in the steamers from Suez, unless changed by mutual agreement. We are rather crowded at dinner, the steamer being, as usual at this time of year, very fuU, and nobody sick ; but there was good attendance, and plenty to eat of fanquahty. At seven, there is tea and coffee ; at nine, hot and cold grog. Even the ladies now and then do a Uttle in that line I see. At half-past ten they put out the hghts. I think almost everybody was in bed before that. CHAP. I.] AMUSEMENTS AT SEA. 5 Monday, Oct. 21. — We passed Ushant without sighting it.

Many passengers were too unwell to appear at dinner, not an unusual occurrence in these parts. Pace improved, thanks to the freshened breeze. Tuesday, Oct. 22. — Sea, what sea-sick passen gers caU very rough, but with the consolation that the wind is fair. In the evening a great many people see Cape Finisterre, I can't. A fine mUd sunset. Wednesday, Oct. 23. — SquaUy, but stiU a fair wind ; we were going 10|- knots all night. An event for the landsmen in the carrying away of a studding sail boom. Passengers are beginning to recover. Diners much more numerous than they were. Towards evening, although there is still a great deal of motion, some of the lady jiassengers pluck up courage and do a Uttle singing. The band, too, does its best to enliven the company. It consists of six or seven of the stewards, who play brass instruments for an hour in the morning on deck, and a mixture of brass and string instruments in the saloon in the evening, and reaUy do it very well.

At eight o'clock, we passed the Bmiing's revolving light ; about ten, the light on Cape Roca, near Lisbon. ANCHOR AT GIBRALTAR. [chap. I. 6 Thursday, Oct. 24. — In the morning we were off Cape St. Vincent, which we passed at no great distance. Passengers begin to crowd the upper deck. People appear, of whose existence on board we were quite unaware. The cabins below give up their till now half dead denizens. Everybody seems delighted with the view, and of course talks about Nelson. Water quite smooth towards the afternoon. Friday, Oct. 25. — Such a row was made in bringing the ship to an anchor, and in making the preparations for the same, that we got Uttle sleep from two to five a.m., when the anchor was let go in Gibraltar Bay. Passage, four days and nineteen hours. Weather showery, with fine intervals.

Gros venor and I landed for a walk about the place, so did many passengers. I had often seen it before ; he had not. We just walked to one or two of the most remarkable points de vue, which one could reach in a two hours' ramble (all the time could aUow), caUed on Sir R. Gardiner, the governor, and went on board again at half-past ten. At eleven we were under way again, and standing up the Mediterranean with a fine W.N.W. breeze after us. The hounds were out when we left Gibraltar Bay, and it was amusing to watch the field on the hills to the right of Algesiras. CHAP. I.] QUARANTINE AT MALTA. 7 Saturday, Oct. 26. — Lovely calm weather. Pass Cape de Gatt about ten a.m. About three p.m. see the coast of Africa, both a long way off. Sunday, Oct. 27. — Prayers were read in tbe saloon, and a sermon preached by a missionary, a Wesleyan I beUeve.

In the evening there was a Scotch service, and a very long, strange discourse, the object of which, as far as I understood, was to prove the respectability of Nicodemus, winch I am not aware that anybody had any doubts of. We passed a French steamer going to the westward. Monday, Oct. 28. — Mediterranean weather. Six a.m., pass the island of Gahta. Eight p.m., pass Cape Bon. Passengers so far come to life that they actuaUy dance on deck in the evening. There is just enough motion to make the said dancing a labour of some difficulty and danger. Saw the " Sultan " steamer this morning. Tuesday, Oct. 29. — At two a.m. saw the island of PanteUaria, and at two p.m. got into quarantine harbour at Malta, where we are to remain, putting ourselves into quarantine here, in order to avoid being put into it at Alexandria, where the sapient authorities have determined that, having all the plagues of Egypt in fuU force, they will not import a ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA. [chap. i. fresh one in the shape of cholera from Malta, where the said cholera has been extinct for some time.

It is a great bore for those who have not seen Malta, or who have friends living there, in which latter class I and several other passengers are situated. Wednesday, Oct. 30. — H.M.S. " Medusa " arrived at eight a.m. with the MarseiUes portion of our maU, so at four p.m. we started for Alexandria. In the morning I and sundry others went in a shore-boat, towed by another one, to look at the grand harbour. There were no men-of-war in it except the " Dragon " and a few other steamers. There seem to be few altera tions from what it was in old times. It was blowing fresh when we started, and when we got clear of the island we suddenly ran into a vicious cross sea, which of course caught us at dinner, and sent aU the dishes and plates flying, much to the horror of the stewards and to the amusement of those passengers who were to windward.

There was not any event to distinguish the remainder of our passage to Alexandria, off which place we arrived at three a.m. on the morning of Sunday, Nov. 3, though we did not get into the harbour tiU past nine, owing to delay on the part of the pilot. We landed immediately, and after a desperate encounter with an army of donkey boys, CHAP. I.] SIGHTS OF ALEXANDRIA. 9 who, strange to say, did not succeed in mounting us on their animals, reached the Hotel de l'Europe, where we put up. The first thing to be done was to find out when the transit administration intended us to start for Cairo, so some of us went to the office and found that the first batch of vans was to start this evening. WhUst on board the " Ripon " the passengers had arranged themselves in parties of six, and had drawn lots for the numbers of their vans, the number deter mining whether such parties were to go in the first van or in the twentieth, according to the number drawn.

We got number eight, but exchanged with number eighteen, and had reason to rejoice that we had done so. The first advantage was that we got a night's rest in Alexandria, which gave us plenty of time to get a bath and to go and see the sights, such as they are. The Pacha's palace, a large tawdry building, in bad French taste, the slave market, the Turkish bazaar, Pompey's piUar, the needle, and Said Pasha's garden, near which is a curious ancient mosaic, representing Medusa's head, are, I think, pretty nearly aU there is to see. Monday, Nov. 4. — After a night of some sleep and more mosquitos, we embarked in the canal boat at about seven. Here we found another advantage CANAL OF MEHEMET ALI. [chap. I. 10 in om being in the second batch. Our batch con sisted of only eight out of the twenty or more van loads which constitute the Desert caravan ; so that we were not nearly so crowded as the first canal division must have been.

The canal, which every body knows was constructed by Mehemet Ali at an enormous sacrifice of life, is much Uke any other widish canal, and passes through a low and swampy, but apparently very fertile country. In one place a large wUd boar was galloping over the country, disturbed, I suppose, by some European looking sportsmen, who were shooting in an adjoining field. Occasionally we passed tolerable looking houses, and constantly boats of aU descriptions, which always got out of our way in a desperate hurry, for no Egyptian boatman dare impede the' progress of the barges belonging to the Pacha's transit administration. We were aU (about sixty of us) in a large track-boat, simUar to, but broader than an ordinary canal passenger-boat, but with the roof made strong enough to serve as a deck to carry passengers ; the pace was about six or seven mUes an hour, our barge being towed by a small steamer, the fulness of the canal at this time of year aUowing of a greater rate of speed than usual.

At one time the CHAP. I.] THE NILE STEAMER. 11 crew thought fit to take advantage of the wind, which was fresh and fair ; so they set a huge lateen saU, but a squall coming on, the saU took command of the boat, and sent it scraping and bumping agamst the bank, almost upsetting it. There was as much noise in getting the canvas in as there would be in bringing a seventy-four into harbour ; and, once in, the saU was not set again. A pretty avenue of evergreen trees forms a pleasing approach to Atfeh, where the canal terminates on the left bank of the NUe, and which we reached at about three p.m. Here the canal boat is taken through a lock, and brought alongside the NUe steamer, so that the passengers and their luggage are transferred from one to the other without difficulty or delay. Atfeh is merely a viUage of mud huts, with a few large houses inhabited by the transit agency people, and other Europeans in the Pacha's service.

Of course a good deal of enthusiasm had to be got up at this our first view of the mighty NUe, winch, at this season of the year, is a fine rapid muddy river — but we are going to India, not up the NUe, so we wiU not be enthusiastic yet. Our steamer was much like a Herne Bay boat, had two beautiful oscillating engines of, I fancy, about forty-horse power, an FIRST SIGHT OF THE PYRAMIDS. [chap. I. 12 EngUsh engineer, and an Egyptian captain who spoke EngUsh. Her crew was so numerous that they could afford four men always at the tiller, and look-out-men aU over her, perpetuaUy screeching to the steersman to avoid the numerous boats which crowd the river. We were very tolerably fed, and the vessel seemed to go very fast, so that we aU got into exceedingly good humour. When evening came, the fore-cabin, being the smaUest, was given to the five or six ladies; and the after-cabin was appropriated to the forty or fifty gentlemen.

Nobody went to bed, there being no beds ; but we aU " caulked it " out on cloaks or cushions very com fortably, some preferring the deck, some the cabin floors and sofas, and I beheve aU slept very tolerably. The banks of the river are flat, generaUy six feet or so above the surface of the water, and quite green at this time of year. What with this, and the crowd of boats with their wonderful lateen yards, of aU rigs the most picturesque, the Uttle vUlages with their minarets and date trees, and the glorious sunset, the whole scene was much too agreeable for us to be inchned to grumble at the shght inconveniences of our vessel. Tuesday, Nov. 5. At daylight the pyramids were CHAP. I.] ARRIVAL AT CAIRO. 13 in sight right ahead. They looked to me steeper than I expected. We passed between two parts of the unfinished barrage of the NUe, an immense work certainly, (I hear there are doubts as to its utUity,) and about half past nine A. m. we arrived at Boulac, the port of Cairo, of both of which places there are descrip tions enough already.

We put up at Cairo, at the Hotel de l'Orient ; very indifferent accommodation, but not bad feeding. A donkey-ride to the citadel (which afforded a beauthul view from the ramparts,) a visit to the Turkish bazaar, and a ramble about the town, to stare at the odd dresses and people, passed away the day until dinner time, and at six, the vans drove up to the door to take us across the Desert. Here, the carpet-bags which we were aUow ed to keep out for personal use at Alexandria and on board the canal boat, are given up to the authori ties at the transit office, to be sent to Suez by fast camels, no luggage being aUowed in the vans, for the best of reasons, that there is not room for any. A smaU bundle not larger than you can carry in your hand, is aU that can be taken with comfort. Each caravan consists of five or six vans, (yellow boxes on two high wheels, tight fits for six persons, but perhaps rather the better for the tightness as DESERT TRAVELLING. [chap. Iyou do not bump so much against one another,) each drawn by four mules or horses, and each driven by Arab coachmen who sit on very small boxes in front.

There is also to each caravan an outrider on horse back, and to each van a black feUow who hangs on anywhere, and acts as conductor and extra flogger to the horses. We started at a rattling pace, and got over the first five or six mUes in something under forty-five minutes, not so bad for Desert travelling. The change of horses at each stage made a very picturesque scene, with the wUd-looking Arabs standing about the horses, under the red light of a huge blazing torch or bundle of faggots placed in a cresset in the midst of the group. At the fourth stage we found a very good meal which did duty for tea ; at the eighth stage (where there are bed rooms, and accommodation good enough I beUeve to tempt invalids from Cairo to stay some time occasion aUy for the benefit of the pure dry Desert air,) we had another more extensive meal, which I suppose one must caU supper, and at No. twelve another meal which we ate late enough to caU it breakfast.

AU these meals are included in the twelve pounds which each person pays as transit money from Alexandria to Suez. In fact the only expenses one has to pay ARRIVAL AT SUEZ. 15 chap, i.] extra are the hotel biUs at either terminus, and at Cairo, and anything hi the way of wine, spirit, or beer which one may think proper to order. At No. eight station we feU in with one batch of the homeward bound passengers, and at No. ten Lord Torrington was just changing horses when we passed. The trip across was accomplished without any adventure, but there were so many passengers on their way across from the outward and homeward bound boats that the unfortunate horses (of which the transit administration has 700, and ought to have 1200,) were half dead with fatigue, and we con stantly had to jump out to help them to drag om van out of the sand.

The road is, aU things considered, very tolerable, wide, and most of the stones removed. This, however, renders it here and there rather deep with sand, and the drivers, who seem to have great contempt for any stone smaUer than a miUstone, often choose the open country, and one does get rather bumped then. As to weather nothing could have been finer, and we were only too glad to have our great coats to put on. In fact we did not take them off untU about eleven on Wednesday, Nov. 6, when we changed horses for the last time at the post above Suez, which place we reached at a little after noon. SUEZ DESCRIBED. [chap. i. There is an immense hotel buUt at Suez by the transit company, but if it were twice the size it could hardly be equal to the demands of 250 passengers. There could hardly have been a smaUer number at it within the last three days.

Fortunately a good many of our feUow-passengers thought fit to go on board at once, so that we who remained got beds, and were right glad to turn into the same pretty early. Suez is a wretched place, consisting of a number of mud huts, and houses surrounded by a mud wall, which also includes the aforesaid hotel, and the houses of Captain Lindquist, and one or two other Europeans. Captain Lindquist is the Peninsular and Oriental Company's agent, American consul, and I don't know what else besides. Before turning in, some of us took a stroU about the place. We fell in with a beautiful httle gazeUe, quite young, and hardly higher than a good-sized cat. I never saw a nicer httle pet. There are signs of activity about Suez in the shape of sundry Arab boats buUding, freighting, or under repair. They take European goods to Jiddah, Mocha, and other ports, and bring dates, coffee, and water to Suez.

The latter is very bad here, quite brackish. I beheve Captain Lindquist gets some of his from the Nile, chap, i.] THE " HADDINGTON " STEAMER. 17 and some from Madras or Ceylon. It was amusing to watch the camels, hundreds of which we had passed on the road, arriving with baggage and cargo for the " Haddington " (our steamer). Several cressets full of pine faggots were blazing on the wharfs, about which the animals with their drivers were grouped, men and beasts swearing most vociferously in their respective languages ; for if any animal can swear, camels can and do. It was aU very picturesque ; so was my bed, particularly when I awoke in the morning and found three bugs walking over the pillow. Thursday, Nov. 7. — Fine and hot, but not in tensely so. After a short ramble I went on board the " Haddington," to secure our berths, look after luggage, &c. I found the steamer's decks in great confusion.

Baggage not yet sent below, passengers looking hot and alarmed about that portmanteau which they can't find anywhere, which they want immediately, and which the steward thinks is in the fore hold under the cargo. A few new passengers have replaced the two or three who had ac companied us only as far as Alexandria. Among the new arrivals were Sir W. Gomm, the new Commander-in-Chief in India, and Lady Gomm. We are, in all, I believe, one hundred and twenty- VOL. I. C PROJECTED RAILWAY. [chap. I. 18 six first-class passengers. There were lying here the E.I.C.'s steamer "Akbar," and an Egyptian steamer. At four o'clock, aU the passengers, goods, and baggage, being shipped, the " Hadding ton " weighed, and we ran down the Gulf of Suez ; high rocky hills on either side, and a long expanse of sandy beach between them and the sea.

A lovely evening, and a young moon, with a fair wind, made the start very pleasant. All things considered, we have, as yet, been very prosperous, and the Desert part of the trip has proved much pleasanter than I anticipated. As we did it, there is no hardship, and httle fatigue for any man, though, for ladies or invahds, it would be rather hard work ; but the other party, the first batch, were not nearly so weU off as we were ; they had three broken nights instead of two, having only part of the second in bed at Caho. The other two were passed either in the canal boats or in the Desert vans, and the first was broken by their having to change from canal-boat to steamer at midnight. AU this may be much better arranged when the talked-of railway is made across the Desert. As far as I could judge, there seemed Uttle local difficulty to overcome between Cairo and Suez.