A Sketcher's Tour round the World

Front matter

T5jr e, - .-"! PrintellbyHirlbiiaii-delA Walton. LA. CUMB RE. A SKETCHER'S TOUR ROUND THE WORLD. BY ROBERT ELWES, ESQ. ttfitl] 3[lustrntinii3 from (Driginnl Snmiiitgs, BY THE AUTHOE. LONDON: HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN, 13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1854. LOND ON : Printed by Schulze and Co., 13, Poland Street. TO HER AVHOM THESE TRAVELS ROUND THE WORLD WILL MOST DEEPLY INTEREST, AS PASSAGES IN THE LIFE OE HER HUSBAND, THIS A'OLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED, BY THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. This book is simply a record of travels, undertaken for no purpose but my own amusement ; but as, in tbe course of so long a ramble, I visited many places of interest, and penetrated to spots not famliiar to Europeans, I venture to give the impressions of my wan derings, such as they are, to the Avorld, without apologizing for my temerity. We hA'e in an age when almost eA'ery one travels ; and perhaps there is so much more reason for publishing the result of our experiences and observations, as it is not only interesting, as far as it goes, to the few who remain at home, but may afford information to those Avho folloAV in our steps. I cannot but hope that my book may be useful in at least the latter respect ; and, as regards the other, the public will no doubt aAvard it, in the end, as much favour as it can reasonably claim. VI

PREFACE.

. The illustrations have been draAvn by myself, from sketches made amidst the A'arious scenes represented; and, therefore, on myself alone rests the whole responsibility of the production. R. E. CO_,*GHAM, NORFOLK, NOVE1LBER, 1S53. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. LA CUMBRE ..... FRONTISPIECE NEAR SAN VINCENTE . . . .TO FACE PAGE 4 RIO JANEIRO .... „ 25 FOREST IN THE ORGAN MOUNTAINS . . ,,33 PAOLO AFFONSO .... ,, BUENOS AYRES . . • • ,,100 USPALLATA ...••» 145 LIMA ..... I, 166 HONOLULU ....•" 181 LAHAINA . >■ 211 HALEAKALA ..... .1 214 PAPEITI ..... » 2^7 HOBARTON .....,, 262 GUM FOREST . . . • • " 268 GULF AT THE WEATHERBOARD . . . „ 290 PAGSINAN RIVER .... ,, 31o HONG-KONG ...... II 328 CANTON ..... ,, 338 SHANGHAI .... ,, 360 SINGAPORE ... ,, 375 ADEN ... . „ CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. DEPARTURE* FROM ENGLAND — ARRIVAL AT MADEIRA — FUNCHAL — PICO RUIVO — SAN VINCENTE — THE CORRAL — THE RABA9AL — STUPENDOUS SEA CLIFF — MADEIRA INVALIDS ...... 1 — 9 CHAPTEE II.

TENERIFFE — THE PEAK— VOYAGE TO BRAZIL — RIO JANEIRO— THE BOTANICAL GARDEN — NIGHT DESCENT FROM THE CORCOVADO— A TROPICAL FOREST AT NIGnT — SHOPS IN RIO JANEIRO — BRAZILIAN LADIES— EXPLOIT OF AN ENGLISHMAN— ENVIRONS OF RIO — CAPTURE OF A SLAVER — CONDITION OF BRAZILIAN SLAATIS .... 10 — 28 CHAPTEE III. THE VENDA OF PIEDATJE — FOREST SCENERY — PIC-NIC IN THE FOREST — RIDE TO CONSTANTIA — HOSPITALITY TO TRAVELLERS — PETROPOLIS — GERMAN COLONY — PORTA BE ESTRELLA 29 — 39 CHAPTEE IV. EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR — INCIDENTS ON THE ROAD — BRAZILIAN MULE- TEERS — A COUNTRY TOWN — PARTY OF ENGLISH — SAFETY OF THE ROADS — SOCIETY IN RIO 40 — 5*2

CHAPTER V. VOYAGE TO BAHIA

— STORY OF A SLAYER — BRAZILIAN FISHING-BOATS— SIGNAL FOR PILOTS — MAROIM — ROUTE TO THE FALLS — PROPRIA— ASCENDING THE RIVER — PORTA DES PIRANHOS 53 — 66 b CONTENTS. X CHAPTEE VI. A BRAZILIAN COUNTRY HOUSEHOLD— SIMPLICITY OF THE NATIVES— APPROACH TO THE FALLS — THE CATARACT — NIGHT ON THE BANK — AN UNPLEASANT INCIDENT — A PRIMITIVE FISHERMAN— ANGLING FOR PIRANHOS— NIGHT ON THE RIVER— FOSSIL REMAINS— DISCOMFORTS OF TRAVELLING THE RIVER AMAZON 67 — 83 CHAPTEE VII. SHIPWRECK ON THE BAR — SHOOTING EXCURSION — DRUNKEN SLAVES — THE VIL- LAGE OF THE BAR — OUR VESSEL DRIVEN BACK — CRITICAL SITUATION OF THE 'BOM JESUS' — THE BAR CROSSED — RETURN TO BAHIA — THE SLAVE TRADE — ATTACK ON A CAPTURED SLAVER — RECKLESSNESS OF SLAVE DEALERS — HABITS OF THE NEGROES — VOTIVE OFFERINGS — INSECTS AND REPTILES — THE BRITISH MINISTER — OUR LADY OF THE ROCK.

S4 — 103 CHAPTEE VIII. MONTE VIDEO — BUENOS AYRES — THE GAUCHOS — THE ARGENTINE HORSE — BUL- LOCK-WAGGONS — THE SALADERAS — IRISH SETTLERS — THE RED RIBBON — TYRANNY OF ROSAS — VISIT TO ROSAS' DAUGHTER — A NOCTURNAL VISITOR — MIRAGE — HORSE RACES — START FOR THE PAMPAS . . 104 — 122 CHAPTEE IX. THE FIRST STAGE — THE POST-HOUSES — LIFE ON THE ROAD — THE INDIANS — HABITS OF THE GAUCHOS — A SCOTCH SETTLER — THE ARAUCANIANS — INDIAN RAVAGES — AN ESCAPED CAPTIVE — AN ALARM — A STORM — FIRST VIEW OF THE ANDES — MENDOZA — LIFE IN THE ANDES — THE MOUNTAIN PASSES — FORDING THE TORRENT SUMMIT OF THE PASS — THE DESCENT. 123—153 CHAPTEE X. SANTIAGO — A CHILIAN BANQUET — NATIONAL FESTIVAL — TRAA3ELLING IN CHILI — VALPARAISO— CHILIAN POLICE— FEAT OF A SAILOR— VALLEY OF QUILLOTA — FESTIVITIES 154 1(33 CHAPTEE XI.

CALLAO— LIMA— NATIVE COSTUMES— PIZARRO'S CROSS— THE GREAT BELL— BULL- FIGHT— LAMAS— PERUVIAN WATERING-PLACE— INDIAN CEMETERIES— AN- CIENT CIVILIZATION— IDEA OF ENGLISH BEAUTY— RELIGIOUS PROCESSIONS. 164— 17S CONTENTS. XI CHAPTEE XII. VOYAGE TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS — HONOLULU — ORIGIN OF THE PEOPLE — NATIVE HUTS — DIAMOND HILL — BEAUTIFUL PLAIN — PRODUCE OF THE COUNTRY — EXCURSION INTO THE INTERIOR — AN EXTINCT CRATER — DE- CREASE OF POPULATION — PROCEEDINGS OF THE MISSIONARIES — PRESENTA- TION TO THE KING THE KING VISITS THE ' AMPHITRITE' — THE KING'S YACHT — THE KING IN PRIVATE LIFE — MELANCHOLY ACCIDENT — THE KING'S WELCOME — THE DEATH-PLACE OF CAPTAIN COOK — THE VOLCANOES — NATIVE CABD-PLAYERS — NARROW ESCAPE 179 — 210 CHAPTEE XIII. WEST MAUI — AMERICAN HOSPITALITY — SUGAR PLANTATION — STUPENDOUS CRA- TER — SUNSET ON THE MOUNTAIN — LAHAINA — CURIOUS CUSTOM AT HONO- LULU — NATIVE BURIAL-PLACES — THE MISSIONARIES . . 211 — 221 CHAPTEE XIV.

THE SCHOONER ' CAROLINE' — STORIES OF CALIFORNIA — FIRST VIEW OF TAHITI — FRENCH OCCUPATION — INTERIOR OF THE ISLAND — AN ENGLISH SETTLER- MOUNTAIN LAKE — THE NATIVES— IDEAS OF MUSIC— A NIGHT AT A FRENCH OUTPOST — TAHITIAN WOMEN — CHARACTER OF THE POPULATION — PRODUCE OF THE ISLAND — SYSTEM OF EXCHANGE .... 222 — 241 CHAPTEE XV. ISLAND OF EIMEO — COAST OF AUSTRALIA — THROWN ON A SAND-BANK — THE WTtECK — CAMPING IN THE BUSH — VISITORS FROM THE ISLANDS — GUN- CARRIAGE ISLAND — THE SEALER'S FAMILY — SNARING THE MUTTON-BIRDS — THE LIGHTHOUSE — SIGNAL OF DISTRESS — MOUNT WELLINGTON. 242 — 260 CHAPTEE XVI. HOBART TOWN — THE CONVICTS — CHARACTER OF THE COLONISTS — CLIMATE AND SCENERY — THE ABORIGINES — AN AUSTRALIAN FOREST — GREAT TREES — THE SAAVYER'S HUT — CROSSING THE COUNTRY — LAUNCESTON . 261 — 273 CHAPTEE XVII.

GEORGE TOWN — UP THE YARRA RIVER — MELBOURNE — PRODUCE OF THE COUN- TRY — BOYD TOWN — SYDNEY HARBOUR — SYDNEY BOTANICAL GARDEN — BOTANY BAY — LIVERPOOL — PARAMATTA — THE BLUE MOUNTAINS — STRANGE ADVENTURE — BEAUTIFUL VALLEY — BATHURST — A SHEEP STATION — TnE FIRST GOLD-FINDER — RETURN TO SYDNEY — THE MUSEUM — THE WATERING- PLACE—^DEPARTURE FROM AUSTRALIA— THE NEW HEBRIDES — LADRONE ISLANDS 272—300 CONTENTS. CHAPTEE XVIII. MANILLA BAY — SPANISH COURTESY — THE MALAY POPULATION — THE RIVER — LUDICROUS ADVENTURE — LAKE OF BAIA — SANTA CRUZ — A MANILLA HOUSE- HOLD — HOT SPRINGS — EXTINCT CRATER — THE NATIONAL PASTIME— MANILLA CIGARS — MANUFACTURES— GRAND BALL — MALAY FUNERALS . 301 — 324 CHAPTEE XIX. AN EQUESTRIAN TROOP AT SEA— HONG KONG — ESTABLISHMENTS OF ENGLISH MERCHANTS — CHINESE ARTISTS — PIRATICAL JUNKS — INDUSTRY OF THE CHINESE — CHINESE KITES 325 — 334 CHAPTEE XX.

MACAO— PEARL RIVER — CANTON — LIFE ON THE RIVER — THE HONGS— CHINESE SHOPS — STREETS OF CANTON — SHOPPING IN CANTON — ITINERANT TRADERS — COSTUME — JOSS-HOUSES — TEA — THE HONAN TEMPLE — FARTEE GARDENS — CHINESE COOKERY — A CHINESE FUNERAL — TOUR OF THE CITY. 335 — 353 CHAPTEE XXI. OPIUM SMOKING A CONVIVIAL PARTY — SHANGHAI — PAAVNBROKERS' SHOPS THE STREETS TEA-GARDENS — CHINESE ACROBATS — JUGGLERS — MECHA- NICS — COINERS — SHANGHAI JUNKS — CHINESE TEMPLE — PRINTING IN CHINA — ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS — WOOSUNG CHTNCHEW . 354 — 373 CHAPTEE XXII. SINGAPORE — PULO PENANG — COAST OF SUMATRA — CEYLON — CINNAMON GARDENS — BOMBAY — AN EAST INDIA BANQUET — CAVE OF ELEPHANTA — BASSEIN — BOMBAY BOATS — MALABAR POINT . . . 374 — 387 CHAPTEE XXIII. THE 'ATALANTA' — VOYAGE TO ADEN — THE CANTONMENT — THE RED SEA SUEZ — ACROSS THE DESERT — THE VANS — ARRIVAL AT CAIRC. 388 — 397 CHAPTEE XXIV.

CAIRO — ALEXANDRIA — QUARANTINE AT MALTA — VISIT TO SICILY RUN THROUGH ITALY — SWITZERLAND — HOLLAND — THE RHINE RETURN TO ENGLAND ...... 398—411 A SKETCHER'S TOUR ROUND THE WORLD.

Chapter I. Departure From England Arrival At Madeira Funchal Pico Ruivo San

VINCENTE THE CORRAL THE RABAIJAL STUPENDOUS SEA CLIFF MADEIRA INVALIDS. On the 20th of March, 1848, I embarked on board the brig ' Eclipse,' A 1 , Madeira regular trader, for a passage to Madeira, and about 1 p.m. Ave were hauled out of Shadwell Basin, taken in tow by a tug-steamer, and proceeded at a rapid rate down the river. The ' Eclipse' was Avell fitted for passengers, and could carry forty ; but it was now spring, and as invalids generally return to England at that time, we had but eight in the cabin. Five days elapsed before we discharged our pilot and got clear of the DoAvns, and we were afterwards becalmed in the Bay of Biscay, but Ave made about an average passage, and on the sixteenth morning, at daylight, sighted the craggy island of Porto Santo. At B FUNCHAL 2 p.m. we were off Brazen Head, and in sight of the white shining town of Funchal, the capital of Madeira.

Arriving at this time, we were of course becalmed, as all vessels are, and could not land till the next morning, but everything looked so bright and riant under the rays of the setting sun, that Ave hardly regretted being detained a few hours to contemplate the charming scene. Funchal is built on the sea-coast, but the streets run some way up the hills, which rise with tolerable steepness from the beach. The quintas, or country houses, are scattered about, and are excessively pretty, being generaUy surrounded with gardens, in which all kinds of trees, both tropical and English, flourish luxuriantly. The town seems excellently adapted for invalids, and as there are no Avheeled carriages, it would be very quiet, Avere it not for the yells of peasants to their oxen as they carry Avine about on sledges, and the continual hammering of coopers making wine-casks in the streets.

Some of the gardens are very charming. Bananas, bamboos, daturas, oleanders, with hedges of geranium and hydrangea, meet the eye on every side, and there are fine specimens of rarer trees. Amongst these I observed some eucalypti from Australia, which bade fair to become large trees. A few date-palms added to the tropical appearance of the Avhole. I stayed Avith some friends at the Quinta da Pico de San Joao, but my time was spent in riding about the island. Madeira being composed of mountains deeply cut with raA-ines, the distances are greater, and take more time to traverse, than one could imagine, judging from the apparently small space in view. For my first excursion I hired a horse and burroquero, as the horse-boys arc called ; and set off on a circuit, sleeping PICO RUIVO. the first night at Santa Anna, the next at San Vincente, and on the third day returning past the western edge of the Corral, to Funchal.

A steep road leads from the toAvn past the Mount Church, " Nossa Senhora del Monte," and leaving the quintas and gardens, ascends abruptly through scenery of quite a Welsh character. Then skirting the edge of deep ravines, the path leads into the beautiful valley of Ribierafria, down which, winding amongst luxuriant ferns and all sorts of A'egetation, rushes a clear sparkling brook. The vieAvs towards the northern coast are very fine. At Santa Anna I slept at a good inn, much frequented by the English in summer, as a boarding-house. Starting early the next morning for San Vincente, I first crossed the preci pitous valley of St. Jorge, which takes its name from a little town squeezed in the mouth of the ravine, close to the sea. The view of Pico Ruivo up the valley Avas really splendid. A few streaks of snow still lingered on the top ofthe mountain, which rises upwards of 6000 feet above the sea, and is the highest in the island.

The whole of the country round bore the most evident marks of volcanic action, the high slopes being coA'ered with red hillocks, worn by rain, Avhile the steep sides of the ravine Avere composed of huge buttresses of lava. I noticed seA'eral pretty ferns here, and amongst them the As. crenata, and As. saggitaria ; and, stuck against the rocks, were curious plants of a flat-groAving sort of saxifrage. From the village of St. Jorge the road sometimes Avent along the sea-shore, sometimes rose high on the hill sides, and along the edge of steep precipices overhanging the sea. I had a narrow escape of my life' on one of these steep zig-zags. At a turn of the path, my horse Avould not face B SAN VINCENTE. the hill, and when I pressed him at it with stick and spur, he backed at the angle, until he got one leg over the edge of the precipice, and I actually heard it sinking in the brambles which fringed the path.

I jumped off the other side as quickly as I could, and he recovered himself ; but I should have fallen several hundred feet had I gone over. The most remarkable part of this road is called the Entrosa. Here a narrow path is carried along the face of a perpendicular cliff, rather in the style of the famous pass of the Gemmi in Switzerland, but not at so great an elevation. The coast scenery near San Vincente is as good as any I have ever seen, and equals Norway in grandeur, though not in wildness. A heavy swell was rolling in from the Atlantic, and dashed up over the great black lava rocks, long since fallen doAvn from the mountains, Avhich rose steeply on the other side of the path. A light blue haze, with the sun gleaming through it, hung OA'er the cliffs, softening everything, though hardly making the outlines less distinct ; and the whole formed a perfect picture, but one that would require a skilful hand to paint it rightly.

At San Vincente, a pretty village embosomed among trees and A'ines, about two miles from the sea, I found a tolerable inn. It is rather a central situation, one path leading by the Rabacal to Calheta, another by the edge of the Corral to Funchal. I chose the latter, and found the scenery magnificent. The mountains were very steep, and of the most beautiful forms, covered with wood up to their summits, and enlivened Avith sparkling torrents. In colour they appeared to be of the deepest blue, and a few wreaths of smoke rising from their ravines added to the beauty of the scene. Having accom- . |,.| ..| lui, FullniATi(_Ul 4 Walton Lit*U-£» NEAR SA N VINCENTE THE CORRAL. plished the ascent, the road crosses into the valley of Serra d'Agua, and, skirting this, leads along the ridge dividing it from the Corral, which is the central and deepest valley of the island.

The strength and endurance of the Madeira horses is Avonderful. They clamber up the steepest paths with a heavy weight on their backs, and although I sometimes dis mounted and gave them a few minutes' rest — for they appeared perfectly exhausted — yet in a couple of minutes they were quite fresh again, and eating the grass as if nothing had happened. The men, also, are equally good at their work, and Avalk up the hills with immense loads. The vieAv from the Avestern edge of the Corral is truly unrivalled. As its name signifies, it is a A'alley enclosed Avith mountains (corral being, in Spanish or Portuguese, enclosure or fold, and some say the name was given from the nuns ofthe island having a fold there) . Pico Ruivo fills up the background. At the bottom of the valley, the diminutive appearance of the village and church nestled among the vines, made one sensible ofthe size of the surrounding objects ; but Avithout such a com parison, it would haA'e been difficult to estimate the height at Avhich.I stood.

The place Avas called La Boca des Ena morados, but why I know not. The Corral is supposed by some to be the crater of a volcano, and the lava streams in all directions give some support to the conjecture * but there is nothing in the shape of the valley to authorize it, and though there might formerly have been a crater there, the lapse of time, probably from the stream opening a passage to the sea, and the surrounding peaks falling in, has quite oblite rated it. The depth of the ravines and the steepness of their sides are very extraordinary, but seem to be caused by the THE RABACAL. agency of water enlarging the cracks first made by earth quakes. The torrents, which generally trickle over a bed far too wide for them, are occasionally swollen by heavy rain, and at once become rushing rivers, sweeping everything before them.

Funchal has suffered from their violence more than once, and Captain B. Hall relates that houses and their occupants have been carried bodily into the sea by these inundations. I made another excursion of four days towards the west end of the island. The first day I Avent to the bottom of the Corral ; the second, by the Boa Ventura pass, to San Vincente ; the third, by the Rabacal to Calheta ; returning on the fourth day by boat to Funchal. In this tour I saAV the finest scenery of Madeira. I slept at a cottage in the Corral ; and the next day's ride, ascending from it, and descending the Boa Ventura valley, was most magnificent. Being less accessible than the other valleys, more of the large trees have escaped the axe, and the path is shaded over with the til and venatico. Both of these fine trees are evergreens, and something like the bay in leaf.

The wood is good and much used for furniture. The til Avood is dark broAA'n, the other more like mahogany. On the higher parts of the mountain I Avas astonished at the size of the heaths, Avhich Avere, in fact, quite trees, being 15 or 20 feet high, Avith trunks as large round as a man's body. The flower was small, Avhite, and insignificant. I slept at San Vincente, and then pursued my way to the Rabacal. After a steep ascent, commanding a fine view, the path leads across a flatfish plain called Paul de Serra to the Rabacal, another steep precipitous valley, the scenery of which is by some thought equal to the Corral. I did not STUPENDOUS SEA CLIFF. descend into it, for while eating my lunch, the clouds gathered, and in a quarter of an hour the valley was perfectly full of white mist ; so I turned my horse's head, and pro ceeded to Calheta, a village on the sea-coast, where I found a good inn.

The next day I sent my horse to Funchal by the road, and set out myself in a boat, so that I might pass under the stupendous cliff of Cabo Gerao, which rises 1600 feet perpendicular from the sea, and is said to be the highest sea cliff known : I think, however, there are some in Norway which have a greater elevation, but they are in fjords, and do not face the open sea as this does. The strata of these cliffs is curious, showing how they are composed of thick layers of lava with earth between, but broken and streaked in many places with perpendicular veins and faults. Near the cliff is the little fishing town of Camera de Lobos very pic turesquely situated ; the boat harbour protected by a natural wall of lava, which has run out into the sea. A great quantity of tunny is caught here. The fish of large size, chiefly eaten by the poor, are carried across the mountains each on a man's back ; a string of men thus laden have a curious appearance.

Between Camera de Lobos and Funchal, another point of black lava runs out into the sea, called Punta da Crux, from an iron cross fixed on the top of it, com memorative, I believe, of a shipwreck. The scenery of the eastern end of Madeira is not inferior to that presented by the other parts of the island. The valley of Machico, with the little town of that name, is very beautiful ; and from the upper end of the valley, you obtain a fine view toAvards the north, Avith the grand rock of Penha d'Aguila in the centre. It is said that the first settler, Robert Machin, a fugitive from England, landed at Machico, and gave his name MADEIRA INVALIDS. to the place. Beyond, near the eastern promontory of the island, are some famous fossil-beds, with which, however, I was disappointed, as they seemed more incrustations than fossil.

However, my journey was amply repaid by the splendid vieAv of the north coast, and the grand sight of a heavy sea breaking against the black and red lava rocks. I took many other rides about Funchal, and found much to admire. The Little Corral, the Alegria, and Paliero are all beautiful scenes ; and the vieAv of the town from any direction is always fine. People have an idea that Madeira is like an hospital, and that it must be very melancholy to see nothing but sick people ; but this is a mistake. A stranger may constantly meet the invalids Avithout knowing, from their appearance, that anything ails them. They engage every day in riding parties, sketching, pic-nics, &c, and one would think they must enjoy themselves ; for instead of being confined to a warm room all the Avinter, directly they come to Madeira, they feel comparatively AveU again.

This convalescence, in fact, tends to do a great deal of harm, as they make too free, and the fault is then laid to the climate, Avhen really it is the sufferer's OAvn imprudence. Horse exercise is A'ery beneficial, so ladies go long expeditions, and get up pic-nics, and some times return so completely knocked up that they are obliged to be lifted off their horses. They go out also to dinner parties, especially the young men, walk home Avith a cigar, and wonder they do not get well. Then they go the tour of the island ; and one can hardly imagine anything worse than being caught in rain amongst the mountains, having to ride at a foot's pace for hours in the wet, for there are no houses for shelter on the road • and then arrive at a town, which, MADEIRA INVALIDS. though comfortable enough for a traveller, is not fit for an invalid.

These sort of expeditions are continually being made, and in Funchal, when, perhaps, it has just set in for a regular wet day, you hear people remark : " What a dreadful time the So-and-So's will have in the mountains ; they started this morning for the north of the island." And these are people who come for the benefit of their health ! The first time I rode to St. Anna I found two young fellows sitting at lunch in the Ribierafria ; they were both invalids, and the next morning intended to go to the top of Pico Ruivo to see the sun rise. Now, it Avould be difficult to conceive any thing more likely to give one cold, or to hurt a delicate person more than this sort of trip ; for after getting up three or four hours before sunrise, and riding to the top of the mountain, you arrive there (an elevation of aboA'e 6000 feet) in the coldest time of the twenty-four hours, have to wait perhaps a quarter of an hour or more in a strong breeze, or crouched under a rock, and then return — if you are lucky enough not to be caught in a mist — to the AA'arm regions Avhich you should never have left.

Others dislike the sea voyage, though that does them more good than anything, and instead of going in a comfortable sailing A'essel, prefer a steamer, which is always in a draught. The idea that people are obliged to go for the Avinter is disagreeable enough, and many have no employment or occupation Avhen away from their homes ; but that is the case with idle people in any foreign town.

Chapter II. Teneriffe The Peak

— VOYAGE TO BRAZIL RIO JANEIRO THE BOTANICAL GARDEN NIGHT DESCENT FROM THE CORCOVADO A TROPICAL FOREST AT NIGHT SHOPS IN RIO JANEIRO — BRAZILIAN LADIES EXPLOIT OF AN ENGLISHMAN ENVIRONS OF RIO CAPTURE OF A SLAVER CONDITION OF BRAZILIAN SLAVES. I sailed from Madeira in H.M.S. * Linnet,' Lieutenant James, for Rio Janeiro. We had a fair wind, and in forty eight hours, cast anchor at Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, having sighted the island some hours before. The north end of the isle is grand and rugged ; but I Avas not much struck Avith the peak, though the weather was tolerably clear, and we could see tbe summit, capped Avith snoAV. The long gradual slope Avhich laA'a generally takes, detracts from the apparent height of volcanic mountains, and Etna from the shore at Catania, and the Peak from Santa Cruz, Avith their regular forms, do not look near the height of many loAver mountains Avhich have a more craggy and broken outline.

I went on shore, but there Avas little to see. The toAvn was hot, dirty, and full of beggars. The camels in the streets usually attract a good deal of attention, but to me, Avho had travelled PEAK OF TENERIFFE. in the East, they were no novelty. I visited the church, Avhere the Custode showed the flags taken from Nelson when he made his unsuccessful attack on the Mole, and lost his arm. I then repaired to the Alameda and fountain, and here the lions of St. Cruz were exhausted. The principal trade of the toAvn is in wine, a great deal of which, I think, is brought to England, and sold as sherry. The price is very moderate. The best, sold by the Consul at £20 per pipe, is very good wine. About an hour after sunset, as we sailed from the island, Ave had a fine view of the Peak. It stood up dark against a clear sky, and appeared at this distance (about 40 miles) much higher than when Ave looked at it from the harbour.

We left Teneriffe with a fine breeze, and soon got the north east trade-wind, crossed the Line, and luckily picked up the south-east trade, with only half a day's calm intervening, so ran on, with studding-sails set, 180 to 200 miles per day, and sighted Cape Frio, in Brazil, thirty days from our leaving Funchal. Running doAvn the coast for Rio Janeiro, it appeared to be a succession of blue mountains, terminating at last Avith the False Sugar Loaf, and then the real one, which forms one side of the entrance to the harbour of Rio. Soon we discovered the Garvia, Topsail Mountain, or Lord Hood's Nose, Tejuco, and the CorcoA-ado, all of Avhich were eagerly recognized, and pointed out, by our felloAV pas sengers. The wind died away at sunset, and AA*e anchored under the Sugar Loaf; but the land breeze came off loaded with a delicious perfume, like a green-house or a garden after a summer shower.

This was most delightful after a long voyage, and particularly for me, about to land for the first time in a tropical country. The first day in any foreign RIO JANEIRO. region is said to be one great era in one's life ; the first day in an Oriental town is certainly another ; and the first day in a tropical country, like Brazil, is no mean third. Nor did it diminish my satisfaction that for the present my voyage was over. The ' Linnet' was anchored in the harbour's mouth, and the next morning South America was to open to me. The voyage had passed over pleasantly and quickly. The heat had never been excessive, the thermometer being from 78° to 84° in the shade, even when the sun was vertical ; and I have often felt the heat more oppressive in England in the month of August. The morning sun rose red over the pointed hills to the northward of the harbour, and the mist clearing away by de grees, the white forts Avhich guard the entrance, the houses of the town, the churches and convents on the hills, shone bravely forth.

Several men-of-Avar, English and American, lay oppo site the city, and amongst them, the huge ' CollingAvood' shoAved its double row of guns. Beyond was a forest of masts of merchantmen of all nations ; and, in different directions, lateen-rigged feluccas, country boats, rafts of timber, and little black canoes, darted about, enlivening and diversifying the scene. At half-past eight, we weighed anchor, and beat in against the land-breeze ; and as we stood across from one side of the bay to the other, Ave had an admirable opportunity of seeing the beauties of Rio. Tbe atmosphere was now quite clear, and as the different views opened to us, Praia Grande, the Bays of Botafogo and Zuruzugu, the numerous islands, and the blue range ofthe Organ Mountains behind them, Ave all oAvned that no description could exaggerate these scenes, and that Rio was certainly the most splendid bay in the world.