Travels in Bolivia; with a tour across the Pampas to Buenos Ayres, &c

Front matter

WITH A TOUR ACROSS THE PaMPAS TO BUENOS AYRES, &c. BY L. HUGH DE BONELLI, ©r HEB BRITANNIC MAJESTY'S LEGATION. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON : HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SUCCESSOES TO HENEY COLBUEN, 13, GKEAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1854. M. S. MYERS, PRIHTEIt, 22, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVEJJT GARDEN. CHARTER I. Departure from Southampton — Arrival at Jamaica — Scene at the Theatre — An Execution — Slaves — St. Thomas — The Continent of South America first appears in sight — Santa Marta — Cartagena — Chagres. On a bright morning in the beautiful month of May, when the soft and genial atmosphere has served to banish from our minds the severities of a past winter, and its long train of consequences, and we become young again, and sanguine in the anticipation of warmer days and brighter skies, I packed up bag and baggage to undertake, as a voluntary exile, for the space of three or more years, a voyage to the shores of the distant Pacific.

I was VOL. I. B urged to the determination by a very great desire of acquiring a knowledge of the coun tries in the New World, which had been wholly withheld, or but partially afforded, by antecedent travellers. To obtain this end, I gladly secured the opportunity of personal observation, by accepting the office of Secretary to H. B. M. Charge dJ Affaires, at the head-quarters of the Bodvian Repubdc ; and under such flattering auspices, I anticipated every facility towards the attainment of the object I had in view. After under going the painful ordeal of parting from diends and relatives, and bidding adieu, perhaps for ever, to long-remembered faces, I set sail from Southampton. After a prosperous voyage from England, we drew near the beautdul island of Jamaica ; crags, mils, mountains, and vales fodowed each other in quick succession, as the panorama passed rapidly before us.

Every now and then a sudden ray of dght would illuminate plantations of well culti vated cane, when the extensive works and comfortable habitations adjoining appeared in bold relief against the cocoa forest in the background ; whilst snugly anchored in some safe creek might be seen a "West Indiaman laden with her luscious cargo, and ready to depart on her homeward voyage. Ad at once our steam is stopped, a boat approaches with a black pilot on board. Again we start amidst the shoals. Port Royal is close at hand, with her sweeping batteries frowning from the water's edge. As we coast along within a stone's throw of the shore, we pass the line of battle or guard ship, commanded by the Commo dore of the station, and near to which are anchored two steam vessels of war. A salute is fired as a high government officer is signalled.

Chapter II

Landing at Chagres — Passage up the river — -Gorgon-la — Cruces — Crossing the Isthmus — Adventures in the forest — View of ihe Pacific Ocean — Panama — The Scotch Watchmaker's story of the Pirate's Isle — Steaming for Callao — Passengers on board — Eiver of Guayaquil and town. It was in the month of July, 1848, that I at last set foot on the American continent, at Chagres. It was early in the morning, the day threatened rain, and was most unu sually foggy. At the extremity of a bay, formed by the rocks which run inland, stands the town, d a collection of huts, hovels, and mud-houses deserves that appellation. It possesses a harbour, on one side of which are the ruins of a large fort commanding the entrance, and on the other, the embouchure of the river Chagres, which here joins a low and swampy coast, after having pursued its course im bedded in wood and jungle.

After landing on the quay, our luggage was thrown ashore without a shed or shelter of any kind being provided to protect it. I collected everything belonging to myself together into one heap, the natives being so independent they will render you no assistance for love or money, and in a very short time the rain came down in right good earnest, and I was completely drenched to the skin. It was no time to be idle ; and as for remaining in the place, that was out of the question, amongst a population of blacks, Indians, and had-bred Choloes, who are brutal and uncivil in the extreme ; and for the accommodation even of a hen-roost, are satisfied with nothing less than gold. By the side of the landing, I found a large assortment of canoes of dif ferent sizes, protected by a small thatched house over each.

In one of these, like a toad in a hole, you take up your quarters for the river navigation, which is an under taking of rather an arduous character, the TRAVELS LN BOLIVLA. stream running with prodigious force, and opposing your progress every inch of the way. Having despatched the Custom-house officers, who were vexatiously turning over and examining my effects, in spite of the inclemency of the weather, I struck my bargain with some of the boatmen, and finally embarked on my course up the river. A little fleet of canoes soon after joined me, whose company afforded me much amuse ment, and served to make me forget all the desagremens of my first landing. The river, as I proceeded, presented a noble breadth, and was fringed on either side by a continua tion of impenetrable forests and jungle, a large portion of which was actually growing out of its bed.

It was surprising to me how the black sadoi-s managed to combat against the impetuous stream, sometimes guiding their little bark into a dense thicket formed cf branches of trees, at first sight appearing to defy our entrance, and then issuing on the other side into the open and unencumbered river. At other times the violence of the current was such that the boat was whirled into the middle of the stream, and for a time entirely at its mercy , so that in the course of a few minutes we found that we had retrograded the distance through which we advanced in the course of the previous hour. After one of these mis haps I discovered myself to be alongside of the boat which contained the American Con sul and his family. As the ladies of the United States are particularly sensitive in regard to any breach of the laws of decency and decorum, I was surprised to find the boat manned by a set of sturdy blacks, who had divested themselves of every article of clothing, and were boldly conducting then lovely charge with no lack of good humour, wholly regard less of the blushes they elicited.

Night setting in, we were obliged to pull up at a clear space in the river, their being great danger in ad vancing after it is dark, on account of the way being continuady impeded by the trees and large branches, which line the banks. On landing we found ourselves in the midst of cultivated ground, whereon stood several ronchoes and cottages inhabitedby negroes and Indians, in front of which a large concourse of these black families was asembled, and enjoying the delights of dancing to the sound of the chum chum, and the noisy chorus of the merry spectators. We were all much di verted by the grotesque movements of these people, the scene being rendered highly pic turesque by the flickering glare of a multitude of fire torches distributed in every direction. After partaking of sundry refreshments, which I had brought with me from the steamer, we contrived to while away a few hours very agreeably, and then returned to our canoe to sleep away the drowsy hours of the night as well as circumstances would adow.

Early next morning we made another start, and soon found that the river became bound within narrower limits. The extensive virgin forests which had hitherto marked our course gradually diminished, and bare rocks and high embankments supplied then place. We stopped at a cottage, and were fortunate enough to procure a good supply of eggs, which, together with a little tea from our canteen, furnished us with an excellent breakfast. Towards the latter end of the day we arrived at the vdlage of Gorgonda, containing a number of decent houses, and a posada, or inn. Scram bling up the banks, where, on account of the late heavy rains, we had difficulty in extri cating our legs from the thick mud, often times losing a shoe or a boot in the course of our struggles, we soon found ourselves in the inn, and ensconced in tolerable quarters, since, in addition to everything we could reasonably requde in the way of meat and drink, we were offered the luxury of a bed — one which in this part of the world is not to be dis dained, however exorbitant might be the charge.

Feeling inclined for a bath, I ventured as far as the river alone, hoping to enjoy the cool and refreshing water in the bright rays of the moon, which had just then arisen in all her nightly splendour. I had divested myself of my clothes, and was about to plunge into the stream from one of the boats, when I perceived two or three black objects at some distance, which at first I took for logs of wood floating down the river. Regarding them, however, more in tently, they seemed to advance and then disappear, upon which I hallooed to a boatman in care of one of the boats, who was lying down and smoking; and right glad I was that I did so, for he informed me that what I had been looking at were nothing more nor less than alligators, who would speedily have made me disappear, had I been so imprudent as to place myself within thed reach.

Thanking my lucky stars for my escape from the danger which had threatened me, I scampered back again to my bed, with the full determination never again to run the risk of forming an evening meal for these voracious creatures. The next morning we embarked for the town of Cruces ; and after a very pleasant cruise, the river winding throughout the course, and forming various small bays sur rounded with wood and pasture scenery, it appeared in sight ; being a long, straggling, and uncomfortable looking place, little better than an Indian village. At the upper end of it was the house of the Governador, to whom I had a letter of recommendation. On being introduced to him, I found myself in the presence of a little old man, who was evidently the innkeeper of the place, for he was surrounded by a host of persons who were paying their bids for the accommodation they had received, which proved not very considerable, when I learnt six or seven persons had been billeted in the same room.

Owing to the great demand for mules, we were obliged to remain here all night, and as there was a large assemblage of travellers, I took care to keep a sharp look out upon my luggage, which was to last me during a sojourn of three years in this country.* Several of my friends having procured horses, we were determined to push on at once for Panama, and there await the arrival of thedgoods and chattels. To this course I particularly objected in my own case, and therefore I made up my mind to pass the night in the place, and follow on with my baggage on the morrow. Having taken up my position in a small barn or out-house on the premises, I was left unmolested, and after having partaken of a welcome meal of eggs and grilled meat, I left the house and began to look about me. The first object * Let me here caution travellers on leaving their canoes, never to lose sight of their luggage till they have seen the whole of it safely deposited under cover.

If they use not this precaution, they might find themselves minus some portion of their cargo when far from th e place, without the slightest chance of redress. which struck my attention was an old church, by the side of which was a primitive belfry, consisting of three poles tied together in the form of a gallows, with three bells suspended from them. I entered this rustic building, the interior of which, like many others which I subsequently saw in South America, was as grotesque and barbarous as the bigoted curate whom I met there was rude and unlettered. Saints of every kind were painted, or to speak more properly, daubed about in all directions, resembling rather clowns and mountebanks than the sacred personages they professed to depict. There were religious subjects of every description as well as allegorical pictures, in which the most unchristianlike forms were introduced, mixed with animals of the most chimerical and dissjustinK character.

In the stillness of this sanctuary, I observed several persons who seemed wrapt in fervent prayer, ignorantly regarding the objects before them with a superstitious awe and reverence. On leaving the edifice, I strolled through the town, the inhabitants of which were for the most part at thed doors, and enjoying the afternoon's amusement. This consisted of certain feats of horsemanship performed by men and women, who rode thed animals with wonderful adroitness, sometimes lifting each other completely out of the saddle whilst galloping at full tilt, then stopping short and chasing each other in all directions, even following them into the houses, amidst shouts of laughter from the lookers on. Others amused themselves and others by picking up rings, handkerchiefs, and other articles, whilst riding their horses at the full extent of their speed.

After witnessing these exploits till I was completely tired, I returned to my shed, where I passed a good night, notwithstanding the miserable accommodation the place afforded. After breakfast on the following morning, the Governor sent for me to inform me that he had been able to procure me baggage mules, and a horse for my especial use, together with the attendance of two mozos or servants. As there was no alterna tive, I had to wait hour after hour for thed arrival, which did not take place till the afternoon. Thus furnished, I prepared to set out. The traffic at this time across the Isthmus was so great that the supply of mules and horses for BOLsVIA. the transit was greatly deficient, and I had reason to think myself fortunate in not being detained longer than was the case. Before leaving the place, however, I was enabled to render essential service to the American Charge d' Affaires, when ad his family, ser vants, and a large pile of trunks and boxes made thed appearance just previous to my departure.

None of the party could speak or understand a word of Spanish, and found themselves from this cause in a very sad dilemma ; and I transacted for them all then business as well as I could, saw them make a fad start, and on the arrival of my goods and cattle was soon in stirrup and in the act of commencing my overland journey. On entering the large forest which covers this portion of the Isthmus, the effect of the rainy season was everywhere apparent. Large pantanos or pools of water had been formed, and the mud in some places had accumulated so much that the roads were hardly passable. The horses and mules were every moment stumbling into holes, and as they lay on the ground floundering under thed loads, they experienced the greatest difficulty in regaining their footing. The day, which was bright at intervals, often became all of a sudden dark and obscure.

Then, almost as quick as thought, down would come a sheet of water, almost enough to wash a person out of his saddle, the animals all the while turning their backs to the squalls, and defying every means used to induce them to proceed. Leaving my ser vants and their charge to get on as best they could, I broke into one of the numberless tracks with which the Isthmus is covered, preferring to ride amongst the green wood, and so avoid the deep and mdy quagmdes to be found upon the highroad. After following the track for some time, I found that I had lost my way amidst the intricacies of the forest, and I wasted many hours in crossing and recrossing various streamlets and gullets in the hope of being able to recover the right road. I was determined, however, to push on, and hallooed every now and then, in order to attract the attention of passers-by, or to gain iidormation from the natives in case I happened to be in the vicinity of any vdlage.

I found mysed at last responded to by female voices, and hastening to the spot from whence the sounds proceeded, I soon gained the road, where I beheld the whole party of American ladies together with their servants in a sad plight. Drenched with water and splashed up to their very eyes, they looked more like a set of negroes than fad descend ants of the Anglo-Saxon race. Some had fallen off their horses, who were tramping about upon the morass, and dismay and bewilderment seemed to have taken possession of the whole party. On seeing me, there was a general exclamation of delight. They told me that they had lost thed way in endeavouring to discover a better route amongst the trees, and that after wandering about for a length of time in search of the old track, they had at last despatched the Consul himsed, hoping that he might fall in with the provision mule which had been left behind, as, after all their annoyances and fatigues, they were quite famished with hunger.

They had now waited a considerable time without having seen or heard any thing of him, and as the sun was getting very low in the heavens, they had begun quite to despair, when they fortunately heard my cry. After sympathizing with them on the disasters which had befallen them, I gave them everything I had, which was a small box of dried preserves, a treat which was duly appreciated, and for which they were very warm in their expressions of gratitude. I now joined thed party, having lost sight of my own luggage, and not knowing in what direction it might be, glad under any circum stances to be of service to the poor benighted and bewddered ladies. We therefore pro ceeded together in the hopes of meeting with some casual travellers who might give us information as to where the right track lay.

The road, as we advanced, became very narrow, and divided in the centre by an enormous landslip, occasioned, no doubt, by the late heavy rains. There was a passage on each side walled by projecting rocks, very much sunken, and so confined that there was scarcely room for a loaded mide to pass. Just as we were on the point of entering this defile, the tramp of mules and voices was heard, and presently appeared the advanced guard of persons travelling in charge of treasure forwarded across the Isthmus for the return steamer to Europe. Mule after mule then came in sight, laden TRAVELS LN BOLIVIA. with its precious cargo, each one seeming to follow the bent of his inclination, and straggling about pretty much -as he chose. One had lain down under some trees, ex hausted with the weight he bore, and was not able to rise again from the ground, till the rear guard came up and rendered his assistance.

It is strange with what dttle caution large sums of money are conveyed through so apparently dangerous a locality. I noticed that the guards, so far from having thed muskets ready for use on any sudden emergency, carried them carefully wrapt up in green baize strongly corded to protect them from the rust. However, I was informed that only two attempts at robbery had been made on the convoy in the course of several years, which naturally abated my astonishment at the seemingly ineffectual measures taken for their protection. From the officer in command I received the intedigence that the road in advance of us was in a very bad condition, and it was evident, as the sun was fast setting, that we should be in total darkness in a very short time. He advised, as the distance to Panama was very considerable, that the best course for us to adopt was to remain for the night at two Ranchos, a short way off, having no doubt that our companions and luggage mules had taken the other road.

We resolved to act upon this advice, the plan proposed appearing to us so feasible, and made off as fast as we could to the place in dicated. On our arrival at the Ranchos, we found them occupied by two young gentlemen ; one an officer in the Bodvian service, and the other an architect in the employ of the same Government. They politely gave up to the ladies the use of the large room of which they had taken possession. The only thing to be procured in this miserable abode Avas a small supply of Bananas. There was not even water, and we had to go and fetch it for ourselves from a neighbouring stream. The night was passed as well as cdcumstances would permit, and early on the following day the two Bodvians started. I remained behind with my fair companions, but found that they were determined not to proceed till they had received a change of raiment.

They urged me, therefore, to press forward to Panama and send them succour ; which I consented to do, and immediately set VOL. i. e out on my travels. The road lay on a gradual ascent, and I found mysed by degrees emerging from the forest, the clearage becoming everywhere more conspicuous, as large rents of earth with variegated strata occasionally met the eye. I turned upon my saddle to take a view of this dttle barrier between the two oceans, and look over a broad expanse of wood, undulating with the retning vadeys or rising in majesty over the brow of some lofty hid. Fresh fodage flourished everywhere, and many a lovely flower was seen loading with its rich perfume the balmy breeze. Advancing on my route, I gained a pro minence whence I witnessed one of those marufest panoramas which charm the senses and fill the mind with delight and astonish ment.

It was on this very spot that, centimes before, after days of tod and disappointed hopes, Pizarro saw for the first time the vast expanse of the beauteous Pacific. Low down beneath me, like a fairy isle reposing on the waters, on whose blue and glassy surface it stood out, reflected in all its loveliness, lay the graceful little peninsula on which stands the town of Panama. Cultivated lands on TRAVELS LN BOLIVIA. both sides of the way, which marked my progress as I descended from the heights, proclaimed my near approach to the abode of man. Groups of cottages, with pretty little gardens attached, soon came into view. Then I encountered gangs of prisoners under the custody of thed guards, busily employed in repairing the highroad ; and soon after a sort of boulevards through which I passed announced my entrance into the city of Panama.

The streets, as I passed along, appeared to be composed of houses of a very antiquated construction ; in many instances shattered and displaced by the numerous earthquakes that visit the locadty. The shops displayed every possible variety of French goods, and trades of ad denominations seemed in a thriving condition; the bustle and business-like appearance of the town being much increased by droves of heavily-laden mules continually passing up and down the streets. After a while I reached an hotel, kept by a German, a lame man, and where everything is conducted after the American fashion. I obtained a commodious sleeping apartment, taking my meals at the general table d'hote, the breakfast, as usual, being laid at a certain hour in the morning, and remain ing till mid-day, for the benefit of the inmates, who dropped in as inclination or convenience suggested.

The display of fish and shell-fish was prodigious, but particu larly the latter ; eveiy variety of it which I ever saw in my lde was, I believe, here con gregated, including some extraordinary rock oysters, of a green colour, and reckoned very dedcious. I made a frugal breakfast, and wa3 not tempted to indulge much in these luxuries ; which I found afterwards was greatly to my advantage, for most of the new arrivals, having partaken of them to a very great extent, found themselves half poisoned, and were for some time exceedingly ill. I fell in here with a friend in the American Commodore, who kindly favoured me with much of his company, and no end of long yarns. We sadied forth together in order to have a look at the town. The grand Plaza is surrounded by many large buildings, amongst which, from its size and importance, the cathedral takes the lead ; all, however, being in a sad state of dilapidation, having large rents in every direction, from the incessant shocks of earthquakes to which the place is subject.

The cathedral, which is externally a noble and imposing pile, has been from this cause greatly dismembered and deprived of many of its ornaments and decorations. As I ascended to the entrance by a flight of broken steps, a picturesque group of friars in close conversation gave great character to its monastic porch. The interior of the building is as much disfigured as the outside, but enough remains of its former magnificence to testdy to its rich and splendid effect in its palmy days. On the opposite side of the Plaza, a row of large and conspicuous houses occupied the ground, whose balconies of carved wood and painted green, after the Peruvian fashion, afford an opportunity for the scrutinizing gaze of some dark-eyed senorita or many a lounging gallant, as he idly puffs his aromatic cigar.

Ad at once we noticed the painted sign of a Scotch watchmaker ; and recodecting our old friend, Sam Slick, we made bold to enter, and introduced ourselves to Mr. M'Pherson, a gentleman who gave sufficient indications of the country of his bdth in as fine a North British brogue as ever I heard. In the course of conversation he detailed to us an anecdote which showed him, for once in his lde, to have been deficient of that caution which is so characteristic of his race. The biter had been bitten, as the following story wdl prove : — An old Scotch carpenter who resided at Panama, and occasionally did work for the said Mr. M'Pherson, took him into his con fidence, and told him how that twenty years before, he had belonged to a pirate vessel, which was at that time a terror on the high seas. After a successful cruise and a capture of several richly-laden Spanish vessels which they pdlaged after they had destroyed the crews, they made for one of the remote islands of the Archipelago, where they hastily deposited thed ill-gotten treasure in a cavern, piling up stones to conceal the entrance.

Just as they were engaged in this operation, a British frigate appeared in sight and bore down upon them. They slipped thed cable and made off, when a chase commenced, and in a very short time it was evident that the British ship was gaming on the pirate. Every exertion was made to improve her sading quadties, and a host of articles which could be spared were thrown overboard in order to lighten her. Notwithstanding ad this, her pursuer made considerable advances upon her, and soon began to open a running fire. The captain of the pirates finding that escape was hopeless, determined to resort to stratagem to attain his object. He accordingly sent a boat's crew, amongst whom was the carpenter, to board the man-of-war, and to inform her sailors that thed own vessel was a privateer, sailing under the Buenos Ayres flag, and now in the act of cruising after a rich Brazdian.

The carpenter was no sooner on board than he stated the plain facts of the case, telling them that they were, indeed, pdates who infested the seas, to murder the ships' crews and plunder then vessels; but that he himself was amongst them very much against his will, having been taken from on board a vessel which had fallen into the hands of his present com rades, who only spared his die on condition that he should render them his services in the way of his handicraft. The information thus clandestinely conveyed, was immedi ately acted upon. A signal was made for the pirates' vessel to surrender, but instead of complying,, she fided every . stitch of canvas, and her guns having been thrown overboard, she was fast making away, when a broadside from the frigate turned her com pletely over on her beam-ends.

She very soon righted ; but in a very short space of time foundered, before assistance could reach her. The boat's crew were taken by thed captors to Jamaica ; there tried, condemned, and hanged, the carpenter alone being acquitted, on the plea of his having been forced to join them to save his lde. This man, owing to adverse circumstances, was prevented for a space of twenty years from visiting again the shores of the Pacific. At length, the wished-for opportunity arrived ; he worked his passage out to the New World with the secret of vast treasure being concealed there within his breast, and anxious to avail himself of the knowledge which he knew was possessed by no one but himsed. At Panama he commenced an intimacy with M'Pherson, to whom, as a countryman, he divulged his secret. His too credidous friend, lured with the hope of gain, greedily swadowed the bait, and eagerly offered to devote bis hard-earned savings in America towards the purchase of a schooner.