Letters from the North of Europe: or a journal of Travels in Holland, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia, Prussia, and Saxony

Front matter

LETTERS FROM THE NORTH OF EUROPE LONDON : PRINTED BY SAMUEL BENTLEV. Dorset Street, Fleet Street. ____W ©3F ■_____ IlFMi@l"S WEIflT5 __ IR, ________€__,. in ST FE T E R & B UR GH- LETTERS FROM THE NORTH OF EUROPE; OR A JOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN HOLLAND, DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, FINLAND, RUSSIA, PRUSSIA, AND SAXONY. BY CHARLES BOILEAU ELLIOTT, Esq. OF THE BENGAL CIVIL SERVICE; OF QUEEN'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE; AND MEMBER OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 1832.

Preface

. The folloAving letters Avritten, with one ex ception, from the places whence they are dated, and addressed to private friends, are now sub mitted to the public. They comprise little more than a journal, penned at moments snatched from the occupations of a traveller passing quickly through the countries he visit ed, and anxious to devote his time to the acquisition of information. The desire ofthe author in publishing this volume is to introduce to the notice of his countrymen the beauties of nature lying Avithin their reach in the almost unexplored mountains of Norway ; a tract of VI

PREFACE.

. country which offers to the traveller, not an isolated prospect, but a succession of richly varied landscapes rivalling those of the Alps and the Himala. Facts submitted to the observation of the author are recorded with fidelity ; but tbe opinions hazarded regarding national character and civil institutions are not entitled to be received with equal confidence. They were the result of first impressions ; and as such, require confirmation by further experience or the concurrence of other minds. The manuscripts have been revised and en larged by the author, who, in the additions to his original letters, has drawn chiefly on memory and his own private notes. For the dates of several historical events, and for a few details interesting to a general reader Avhich escaped his notice, he has referred to the wri tings of earlier travellers in the North ; as also to the able works of Sir Capel de Brooke, Cap tain Jones, and Dr. Granville; his obligation

PREFACE.

. VII to all of whom he takes this opportunity of acknowledging. An occasional reference to ancient history has been inserted, as affording a means of com paring the former condition of the European Avorld and the views of its historians with those of modern times. The allusions to India will not be thought too frequent by those Avho are interested in our eastern possessions. Her political importance, the moral condition of her people, and the natural features of the country, have secured for India the attention of every one whose thoughts are occupied in politics, morals, or statistics : and in preparing for publication his private letters, the author considered it un necessary to expunge the occasional allusions to a land Avhere the first years of his life and of his manhood Avere passed. Queens College, Cambridge, November, 15th, 1831. TABLE OF CONTENTS.

Letter I

Holland. — Its former and present condition. — Dykes. — Canals. — Trekschuits General appearance of towns. — Rotterdam. — Birthplace of Erasmus. — -Canals, houses, and looking-glasses Anniversary of battle of Waterloo. — Organ in the cathedral Delft Grotius. — Tomb of William, prince of Orange His dog. — Dogs and mules in South America The Hague Birthplace of William III. king of England. — Park and palace in the wood. — Chambers of lords and deputies. — Royal museum. — Jasper vase. — Saurin's church Schevening Boat to Leyden. — Appearance of the country, the houses, and the summer-houses. — Leyden. — Site. — Description. — Siege under the duke of Alva Reward of bravery. — Choice of an university. — Boerhaave Portraits. — Birthplace of Gerard Douw and Rembrandt. — Botanical garden. — Remarkable waterworks at Catwyk. — Haarlem. — No money-changers. — Town house First books printed — Lawrence Coster. — House, statue, and epitaph — Botanical system of Linnæus Haarlem tulips Departure for Amsterdam. . . . 1 — 17

Letter II

Amsterdam. — Piles. — Water-mills. — Architecture. — Pa lace General character of the country Picture-gallery. a X CONTENTS. — Churches Lutheranism Clergy. — A liturgy proposed. — East India Docks. — Tea trade. — Monopolies in general — • Diamond-mill Rose diamonds and brilliants. — Saardam. — — Peter the Great's cottage. — Emperor Alexander's visit — Trade of Saardam Sawing-mills Remarkable village of Brock Peculiar habits of the natives. — School. — Con versation with schoolmaster The Dutch. — Their persons and characters House of correction for bad husbands and wives. — Mode of enforcing labor Words of salutation indicative of national character. — Examples The Dutch salutation The party separate to pursue different routes. ...... 18 — 30

Letter III

, Departure from Amsterdam. — Heligoland Worship of Hertha. — The Elbe. — Cuxhaven. — Scenery. — -Motley party on the steamer — Hamburg — The Alster History of Ham burg. — Its government. — Extent of jurisdiction Tewn of Altona Burial-place of Klopstock. — Population and mili tary force of Hamburg. — Its commerce, streets, and houses. — Churches and clergy. — Public buildings. — College. — Lombard Krankenhaus, or hospital. — Mode of punishing the idle. — Two modes of executing criminals. — Red pails for milk Red a prevalent color. — Costumes Hair Dis tinctions of married and unmarried women. — Mode adopted by ancient Suevi. — Hamburg once fortified. — Fosse con verted into a plantation. . . . . 31 — 44

Letter IV

Departure from Hamburg. — Holstein. — Ancient inhabitants Roads. — Carriages. — Light nights Soil Goose berry and currant-trees Silky cotton ; wells ; storks ; all reminiscences of India. — Veneration of the stork in Europe, CONTENTS. XI Asia, and Africa Frogs Houses, costumes, and white hair ofthe Holsteiners Arrival at Kiel Accommodation. — The town — Canal. — Embarkation on steamer. — Passengers. — Triple beds — Voyage. — Three-crown-battery Nelson's battle in 1801. — Copenhagen — View ofthe city. — Curious steeples Tower of the Observatory Population. — Agri culture. — Description of the city Churches. — Thorwald sen. — Castle of Rosenberg Its curiosities. — Museum. — Size of the inhabitants of the North. — Interview with Professor Rask. — Eastern MSS. — Pictures Dock-yard. — Island of Amaak. — Cemetery. — Mode of burying Jews. — The king and queen. — Paternal character of the former. — Anecdote Royal cemetery at Roeskilde Fair. — Cos tumes National feeling towards the English. — Danish character. ..... 45 — 66

Letter V

Departure from Copenhagen. — Frederiksburg. — Royal stud. — Danish imposition. — Elsineur. — ■ Sound dues. — Castle of Cronberg. — Queen Matilda. — Hamlet's garden. — Passage of the Sound. — Helsingborg. — Scenery. — Paper money. — Departure from Helsingborg. — Mode of travel ling in Sweden. — Forebud Expenses. — Fences. — Deal torches. — Villages. — • Gothenborg. — Herrings. — Popula tion of Gothenborg. — Cathedral Settlement of ancient Goths. — Interview with bishop of Gothenborg. — Bible society. — Dawn of religion. — Peasants. — Costumes. — Waggons, birds, and grasses, resembling the Indian. — Weather. — Paucity of English travellers. — Trolhattan. — Falls. — Canal. — Scenery. — Uddeevvala.- — Inns. — Vermin. — Prices. — The frontier of Norway. — Scenery. — Night travelling. — Arrival at Frederikshall. — Perpetual day un pleasant. ..... 67 — 86 a CONTENTS. XII

Letter VI

Frederikshall, frontier town of Norway. — Scenery. — Fjords or bays. — View from a mountain near Frederik shall. — River Glomen. — Cataracts. — Frederikstein. — Fall of Charles the Twelfth.— Saw-mills. — Mode of trans porting fir-trees. — German rechen — Slide of Alpnach in Switzerland. — Moss. — Marriage ceremony. — First view of Christiania Desolation of the city — Mr. Broder Knutz don Fort of Aggerhuus Booksellers' shops — Houses and streets. — Professors Esmark and Hungstein. — Travels ofthe latter in Siberia. — His theory of magnetic variations. — Esmark, professor of mineralogy. — University of Chris tiania — Library. .... 87 — 96

Letter VII

Difficulty of travelling and of conveyance of goods. — Lap encampment on Roraas mountain. — Departure from Chris tiania and arrival at Dramen. — Scenery. — Flowers Mine rals. — Kongsberg. — Mines. — Native silver, electrum, and mineral carbon. — Roads. — Moen. — Birkoshee. — Peasants going to church. — Tellemarken costumes. — Description of House at Birkoshee, and of the houses in general. — Testa mentary inscriptions on the walls. — Tellemarken peasants Lake of Tind. — Accommodations. — Native habits of life. The Riuken-foss. — Extraordinary rainbow Contemplated attempt to explore an unknown pass of the Hardanger field. — Difficulties. — Resolve. — Tind. — Interview with the priest. — Ascent of the mountain. — Limit of vegetation. — Pheno mena. — Tessungdale. — Hard fare Norwegian measures Dissuasive efforts of the peasants. — Guide obtained Pre parations. — Party. — Horses. — Ascent of the Hardanger.

Flowers. — Mosses. — Herd of reindeer. — Birds Sunset in CONTENTS. XIII the N.N.W — Tempestuous weather. — Fatigue. — First night on the Hardanger — Hut at Recshion Hardships Rein deer. — Second night on the Hardanger. — Pile of stones at Feelsihoon. — Intense cold. — Rye cakes and raw bacon. — Hut at Hansboo. — Birds. — The lemming, or Norwegian rat. — Remarkable fact. — Hut at Leetloos — Oollah Stores exhausted. — Accident. — March over the snow. — Party nearly lost in a snow-storm. — Return to Leetloos. — Third night on the Hardanger. — Dreary Scene. — Three girls. — Storm. — In tense cold. — Party crawl under a rock. — Pile of stones. — Fourth night on the Hardanger. — Two huntsmen — Haunch of reindeer venison. — Hardships Reflections. — Fog Wild scenery. — Glacier. — Descent of the Hardanger. — Granite hills. — First sight of the termination of the journey Scenery Soe-fiord. — Opedal Ullensvang. — Two waterfalls. — Reflections — Reception at the parsonage — Provost Hertzberg Bibles. — Embarkation on the Soe-fiord. — Glacier of Folge Fund Theory of the formation of glaciers. — Why found in Norway and Switzerland, and not in Kamt chatka, the Andes, and the Himala. — Arrival at Bergen — Mr. Janson — Norwegian party and customs. — Sweetcheese. — English mistakes Juniper-trees Comparison ofthe scenery of different parts of Norway. — Watchman's prayer. ... . 97 — 150

Letter VIII

Bergen. — Population. — No hotels. — Condition of females. — Description of the town. — Houses. — The sea. — Beauties ofthe vicinity. — Bergen excluded from intercourse with other towns of Norway — Castles Fish. — Climate. — Admirable provision of nature. — Carriage of food and timber on ice. — Fisheries. — Stock-fish. — Sea-serpent — Diseases. — Cariole, or gig Avant-courier. — Departure from Bergen. —^Scenery. CONTENTS.

XIV —Hardships. — Native carriages — Vossevangen. — Difficulty of getting into a house. — Interview with Mr. Unger the priest. — Paucity of travellers. — Valsenden. — Eid fiord — Voring foss Wildness of surrounding country. — Cloudberry Return to Eid fiord.— Mountain paths — Passage of the fiord to Ulvig. — Scenery. — Haymaking. — Reception at the parsonage Melange of languages in conversation. — Morning visit Ignorance of the Norwegians regarding their own country. — Supper with Mr. Unger. — The party separate to pursue different routes Waterfall near Staleim. — Passage of the Teroen fiord from Gudvangen to Leirdalsoeren. — Scenery. — Remarkable transparency of the waters. — Ascent of the Fille fjeld Phenomena. — Vegetable productions. — Frontier ofthe provinces of Bergen and Aggerhuus Costumes Highest peak of the Lapland Alps. — Their natural history Ants Anecdote of Timour Shah Formic acid. — Ermines. — Mios Lake — Vang Mr. Munster the priest. — His hospitality. — Silent meal with the ladies Discussion with the priest. — His refusal of money Tomlevolden Alteration in the scenery. — Horses accompanied by men, boys, or sometimes by girls — Bad conduct of a man. — Ano ther village called Vang. — Courtesy of Mr. Steinson, the priest — Arrival at Christiania — Sketch of the political his tory of Norway. — Benefits reciprocated between Norway and Sweden Skielobere, or regiment of skaters. — Norwegian constitution — Storthing, or parliament Visit to the assembly Costumes and simplicity of the members.

Abhorrence of an aristocracy. — Lutheranism No Jews in Norway. — National character. — Appearance. — Salutations. — Food Vermin Beds — Trade in timber Impolitic duties in England — Dry rot not known in Norway. — Lobster fishery. — Conclusion. .... 151 CONTENTS. XV

Letter IX

Departure from Christiania Ous Road Ferries. — Floats of wood Stoppage of rivers Accommodation Weather Kongsvinger. — Frontier of Sweden Money changed Comparison of Norwegian and Swedish scenery. — Rapidity of vegetation. — Brick church. — Gothic architecture Girl accompanying the horse. — Simplicity of the natives Strand. — Bad treatment received Carlstad. — Grass-plots on the tops ofthe houses. — Alders and junipers. — Capercali, or cock of the woods, wood-cocks, black cocks. — Bears, wolves, lynxes, gluttons, elks Costume. — Christinehamn.. — Large boulders of rock. — Wall Proposed visit to priest Divine service in Lutheran church. — Cere monies of marriage and baptism. — Extent of parishes. — Delay of the forebud Orebro Meat for dinner. — Moral requisites for a traveller in the North. — Forebud overtaken. — Koping Westeros Eric XIV. — Steamer. — The Malar. — Scenery. — Party. — Arrival at Stockholm. — Travelling in Sweden. — Language. — Servants. — Expense. — Horses. — Owners. — Bearing rein. — Tackle. — Pace. — Roads. — Inns. — Prices. — Comparative comfort of travelling in Norway and Sweden. .... 196 — 221

Letter X

View and site of Stockholm. — Comparison with Christiania. — Palace. — Church of the Seraphim. ■ — Royal tombs. — King's library. — Codex giganteus. — Medical treatise. — Museum. — Upsala. — Epitaph on Linnæus. — Reflections on Christina and Charles XII. — Cathedral of LTpsala. — Image of Thor. — Mine of Dannemora. — Exports to England. — Swedish steel. — Fahlun mine. — Mine at Adelfors. — Native CONTENTS. gold. — Granite. — Porphyry. — Palace of Rosendal.—Ber nadotte. — Oscar the crown-prince.— His visit to St. Peters burg. — The legislative assembly. — Number of titles. — Orders of knighthood. — Population.— Weak aristocracy.— Liberality of mind.— Press.— External relations of Sweden.— Russia. — Maritime power. — State of religion in Sweden. — Interview with the premier. — No dissenters. — Visit from the Austrian ambassador. — His opinion of England, her politics, literature, and social habits.— Of the Poles and the present state of Poland.— Lord Blomfield. — Mr. Stapleton. — Conversation with natives the best source of information. — Noblemen's club. — Spirits before dinner. — Queries pro posed to a foreigner at Stockholm. — Want of cleanliness in the Swedes. — Lodgings. — Oriental words in the Swedish language. — Sale of cariole or Norwegian gig. — Proposed de parture for Finland. .... 222—244

Letter XI

Departure from Stockholm. — View. — Party. — Farewell scenes. — Gulf of Bothnia. — Russian custom-house. — An cient opinions regarding the gulf of Bothnia. — Passports. — Invitation to take coffee with the Russian custom officers. — Natives of the islands in the gulf. — Common origin ofthe Fins and Laps. — Abo, formerly the capital of Finland Population. — Floating market. — Cathedral. — Observatory, the most northern in the world. — Wind mills. — Finnish patriotism. — Costumes. — Churches. — Cupolas. — Droshki. — Visit to Swedish consul. — Interview with Finnish merchant. — Saluted by Finnish counsellor. — Caleche. — Scenery. — Roads. — Horses. — Rate of travelling. — Expense. — Country seats. — Condition of peasantry Steeples separate from the churches. — Helsingfors Inns — Policy of Russia towards Finland. — Boundary of CONTENTS.

XVII old and new Finland Costume Hair. — Different modes of dressing hair in different countries. — Frederikshamn. — Stone quarry of Peterlax. — Viborg. — Italian innkeeper. — Podaroshne. — Houses. — Churches. — Old style of date Fracture of carriage-wheel — Detention at post house at Kyrola. — Church. — Religious forms. — General courtesy. ..... 245 — 264

Letter XII

Russian frontier, Bellostrofskie. — Custom-house. — Obe lisks. — First view of St. Petersburg. — General outline Site. — Peter's reasons for selecting it. — First house built Constituted the emperor's residence. — Houses. — Large panes of glass. — Streets. — Boundaries. — Population. — Canals. — Bridges. — The river Neva. — The Granite, English, and Imperial quays, with opposite buildings. — Isaac bridge. — English line. — Isaac church. — Statue of Peter the Great. — Admiralty. — Nevski Prospektive. — Church ofthe Lady of Kazan. — Monuments of Moreau and Kutusoff. — Reli gious festival. — Establishment of the Greek Church in Russia. — Greek service compared with Roman Catholic. — Reflections Doctrines and discipline of the Greco-Russian Church. — Clergy, secular and monastic. — Toleration. — Jews and Jesuits expelled. — Fasts. — Easter carnival. — Salutations. — Pacific spirit of the natives. — Number of palaces Marble-palace, where the last king of Poland died. — Her mitage. — Picture gallery. — Mr. Dawe. — Winter and Summer Gardens. — Winter-palace. — Hall of St. George. — Tzarskoe Celo. — Draining marshes. — German colony. — Rooms lined with amber and lapis lazuli. — Alexander's suite of apartments. — Invitation to the palace. — The emperor, empress, and heir-apparent. — Groups in the garden. — Persian am bassadors. — Georgian and Cashmerian Princes. — Mint. — CONTENTS.

XVIII English machinery.— Treatment of laborers. — Silver, cop per, and platina coins Museum.— Various national cos tumes Mammoth. — Native iron. — Public institutions. — Manufactories.— Style of building.— Stoves. — Double windows Equality of temperature. — Climate. — Effects.— Sum mer and winter dress Frost-bitten noses. — No spring nor autumn.— Setting in of the frost — Russian winter. — Nor thern lights.— Rite of blessing the Neva. — Breaking up of the ice. — Religious ceremony. — Rapidity of vegetation — Inundations.— That of 1824. — Cronstadt. — Naval Power. — Commerce. — Camels. — Launch of two men-of-war. 265 — 308

Letter XIII

Advertisement of name to obtain permission to leave St. Petersburg. — Proposed route. — Departure. — Companions. — John Mortlock, a Georgian. — Bad accommodations. — Pea santry Review of troops. — Cossacks — Hussars. — Novgo rod. — Walday mountains Canal of Vouichni- Volotchok communicating with the Baltic and Caspian. — Torjok. — Russian leather. — Present from a Raja in Thibet. — Tver. — Russian architecture. — The Wolga. — Oriental costumes. — Wooden houses. — Veneration cf the Virgin Biscuits Tumuli. — Caravans. — Roads. — Pillows Provision for cat tle. — Scenery.. — WTild beasts. — First view of Moscow. — Its origin and early history. — Conflagration of 1547. — Popula tion. — Site and description of the present city. — Variety of architecture. — No Indian minarets.— Gothic and Tartar towers — Bulbous domes. — Their origin. — Interior of the city. — Streets, houses, shops. — View from the tower of Ivan Velikoi — Sparrow hills. — Encamping ground of Napoleon's army. — Anecdote. — The Kremlin. — Holy gate. — Carillons. — Reputed miracle. — Palace of the tzars Birthplace of CONTENTS.

XIX Peter the Great and residence of Napoleon. — Imperial palace. — Palace of the patriarchs. — Nicon's tunic. — Mary Magdalene's bones. — Sclavonic MSS. and Psalter Cathedral of the assumption Coronation of tzars and emperors. — Picture ofthe Virgin by St. Luke. — Cemetery ofthe Patriarchs. — Throne of Vladimir Cathedral of St. Michael. — Martyrdom of Michael. — Cemetery of the tzars An ancient custom. — Cathedral of the annunciation — Portraits of Grecian philosophers Two cathedrals dedicated to the Saviour Treasury. — Portraits of the tzars and emperors Crowns of conquered kingdoms. — Crowns of Vladimir, Ivan, Peter the Great, and Catherine ; of the sovereigns of Kazan, Astrachan, Siberia, and Poland. — Thrones of John and Peter Alexivitch Jewels, &c Robes of tzars and emperors. — Uniform and chair of Charles the Twelfth. — Armory. — Arsenal Captured guns. — Great cannon. — Two culverins Senate house. — Two monasteries. — Great bell, compared with those of Erfurt and Pekin. — Observations on the Kremlin. — Church of Vassili Blagennoi. — Architect's eyes put out. — Grand market. — Fish market in the water. — Sterlet. — Frozen provisions. — Hand-arithmetic. — Riding-school. — Foundling hospital. — Its expediency questioned. — Lying-in establishment — -Galitzin and Sheremetieff hospitals. — Mahomedan mosque Numerous bells. — Horn music Chantres de la cour. — Inhabitants of Moscow.- — Equipages. — Liveries — Distribution of population. — Anecdote illustrative of the hospitality of the Moscovites. — English residents. — General conduct of English abroad. — Restrictions on foreigners in Russia Passports. — Imposition of clerks. — Allusion to ill-judged economy in India Oriental words, fruits, costumes, and character. — The cholera. — General alarm. — Preventive measures Reflections. . 309 — CONTENTS.

XX

Letter XIV

Return to St. Petersburg. — Companion, a liberated slave. —State of society. — Rank. — Military titles — Population. — How distributed. — Compared with that of other countries and with the superficial extent of Russia. — Grades of nobility. — Their education. — Russian opinions of England and of the government of India. — Orders of distinction. — Slaves. — Their abrok. — Privileges and restrictions. — Condition. — Moral and religious tendencies of the Russians. — Anecdote illustrative of these.— Character of the emperor. — System of government. — Small salaries. — Suppression of public opinion. — Courts. — Want of faith. — Proposed digest of laws. — Re venue. — Waste land. — Capitation tax. — Other sources of revenue. — National debt. — National expenses. — The army. — Mode of recruiting. — Military salaries. — Invasion of India by Russia. — Comparison of present and former condition of Russia. — Universities — Schools. — Couvent de jeunes demoiselles. — Institut de Sainte Catherine. — Fair of Nijni Nov gorod. — Mode of conducting trade with China. — Scented tea. — Commerce, external and internal. — Siberian mines. — Hotel des Mines Artificial mine. — Corps of miners. — Banishment to Siberia — Society at Tobolsk. — The knout. — Police. — Espionage. — Anecdotes A Russian bath. — Na tional food — Physiognomy — Teeth.- — Elements of the Rus sian language. — Scenery. — Trees — Concluding observations. ..... 374—413

Letter XV

Departure from St. Petersburg. — Narva. — Chudleigh. Lake Peipus. — Dorpat. — University. — Professor Struve Baron von Kittlitz.— Riga. — English factory and chaplain. CONTENTS.

XXI Mittau. — Road to Polangen. — Ancient history of the provinces of Esthonia, Livonia, and Courland. — Scythico-Celtic language resembling British. — Modern language, population, and religion. — Appearance of the people. — Forests Vegetation — Huts. — Lights Juniper twigs. — Boulders of rock supposed to have travelled from the opposite coast ofthe Baltic — Polangen. — Polish Jews. — Number of crosses. — Russian and Prussian frontier. — Douanes. — Exportation of copper coin by Jews. — Anecdote. — Memel. — The Curische Haff. — River Memel. — Amber. — Its origin. — Mentioned by Pliny and Tacitus. — Voyage across the Curische Haff. — Koenigsberg. — State of religion among Jews. — Mr. Vanselow, connected with London British and Foreign School Society. — State of education in Prussia. — Description of the town Rivers Pregel and Vistula. — The Frische Haff. — Teutonic castle. — Hotels — Contrivance for bells. — Prussian roads. — Diligences. — Fellow-traveller. — Marienburg. — Teutonic castle. — Dantzic. — Meteors worshipped by ancient inhabitants of this coast. — Part of Poland iniquitously allotted to Prussia. — Jews. — Landsberg. — Custrin. — Customs of the Semnones recorded by Tacitus — Berlin. — The Spree. — Streets. — Unter den Linden. — Pavements. — Houses. — Brandenburg gate. — First entrance ofthe prince's bride into the city. — Royal palace. — Singular clock. — Museum. — Ornithological and anatomical collections. — Egyptian Museum. — Picture Gallery. — Hallos statues. — Number, and insurance of houses. — Hotels — Regulation of prices. — Statues of Biilow, Blucher, Scharnhorst, and Frederick the last elector of Branden burg The king. — Education. — Bible Society. — Bible of Charles the First of England. — Monument of late queen at Charlottenberg. — Trade of Berlin. — Canals. — Iron trinkets. — Army. — Its numbers, expense, and discipline. — Interview with a Lutheran minister. — Union of Calvinists and Lu therans. ..... 414 — CONTENTS.

XXII

Letter XVI

Departure from Berlin Potsdam.— Napoleon.— Frede rick the Great. —Napoleon's and Voltaire's residence — Country between Berlin and Dresden. — Ancient inhabitants. — Modern peasantry. — Painted posts and barrieres. — Dres den. — Its former and present condition compared. — Late revolution. — Anticipated disturbances Politics. — Royal palace. — Zwinger. — Arsenal. — Picture gallery. — Sestinian Madonna by Raphael. — Paintings by Titian, Correggio, Leo nardo da Vinci, and Claude. — Remarks on " La Notte" of Correggio. — Gallery of antiques. — Interview with the di rector of the Academie des Antiquites. — Arabic and Persian inscription deciphered. — Church of the Virgin Heights of Racknitz. — Monument to Moreau. —Treasury. — Green diamond. — Model ofthe Court ofthe Great Mogul. — The valley of rocks. — Napoleon and the Allied armies. — Pilnitz. — Saxon Switzerland. — Bastei. — Lilienstein. — Koenigstein Masses of granite from Norway. — Anecdote ofthe Kuhstall The word burg traced through various languages. . 442 — 460

Letter XVII

Departure from Dresden. — Prussian frontier. — Roads. — Scenery. — Wittenburg. — Luther. — Melancthon. — Meissen. — Schnell-post. — Companions. — Leipzig. — House where Lu ther disputed with Dr. Eck. — Poniatowski's death. — His tomb. — Napoleon's tomb at St. Helena. — Leipzig fair. Traffic in books — Printing press. — Anniversary of the battle of Liitzen in 1813 — Former battle of 1632 Gustavus the Second of Sweden — Late disturbances. — Halle.— Seventeen universities of Germany — Professor Meckel LTnstitut de la Bible de Kanstein — Bernburg. — Magdeburg. — The Lom bards. — Kletzke. — Diligence from Berlin to Hamburg. CONTENTS. Ludvigslust, capital of Mecklenburg. — Character of the country indicating vicinity to Holstein. — Plains, sands, and storks. — Boulders of rock from Norway. — Lauenberg. — An noyances of the journey. — Bye-wagens. — Travelling companions. — English language. — Anecdote.— Arrival at Hamburg. — Embarkation on a steamer for London.

Landing and de tention at Cuxhaven. — Voyage resumed. — Storm. — Consump tion of food and coals. — Landing in England — Concluding reflections. . . • • • 461 — ERRATA. Page 28, line \,sor " pendents" read " pendants." Page 44, line 11, for " town" read " the town." Page 45, line 6, *i fgr „ Ke[y, read „ K[eh„ Page 46, line 26, / Page 94, line 6, after drained insert a comma. Page 103, line 11, for " horneblende" read " hornblende." Page 108, line 22, for " Hans" read " Haus." Page 112, line 15, for " that" read " as large." Page 126, line 20, for " Feelishoon" read " Feelsihoon." Page 137, line 26, for " September last" read " the ensuing September." Page 229, line 23-25, for " an existence I have been apt to attribute to the past millenary." read " an idol which I fancied had ceased to exist upwards of a thousand years."

Page 236, line 9, for " seise" read " seize." Page 254, line 28, after home, for a full stop read a comma. Page 285, line 13, for " appareled" read " apparelled." Page 313, line 22, for " thought" read " memory." TRAVELS IN THE NORTH OF EUROPE.

Letter I

Holland. — Its former and present condition. — Dykes. — Canals. — Trekschuits. — General appearance of towns. — Rotterdam. — Birthplace of Erasmus. — Canals, houses, and looking-glasses. — Anniversary of battle of Waterloo. — Organ in the cathedral. — Delft. — Grotius. — Tomb of William, prince of Orange. — His dog. — Dogs and mules in South America. — The Hague. — Birthplace of William III. king of England. — Park and palace in the wood. — Chambers of lords and deputies. — Royal museum. — Jasper vase. — Saurin's church. — Schevening. — Boat to Leyden. — Appearance of the country, the houses, and the summer-houses. — Leyden. — Site. — Description. — Siege under the duke of Alva. — Reward of bravery. — Choice of an university. — Boerhaave. — Portraits. — Birthplace of Gerard Douw and Rembrandt. — Botanical garden. — Remarkable waterworks at Catwyk. — Haarlem. — No money-changers. — Town house. — First books printed. — Lawrence Coster. — House, statue, and epitaph. — Botanical system of Linnæus. — Haarlem tulips. — Departure for Amsterdam.

Amsterdam. 24th June, 1830. After a passage of twenty-six hours from London, Ave reached Rotterdam at noon on I! HOLLAND. Thursday, the 17th instant. On Saturday we Avent to the Hague in a char a bane, and on Monday evening embarked on a boat, which conveyed us in three hours to Leyden. The following day carried us to Haarlem, and yesterday evening we arrived at Amsterdam. I have entered into these details that you may follow me on the map, and because I intend to make my letters my journal. Holland is a natural marsh, transformed by artificial means into arable land. Great changes have taken place on its surface, as you will readily believe if you cast your eye over the Zuider Zee in the map, and recall to mind that in the first century of our era, it Avas occupied by the Batavi.* Enormous mounds of earth * " Batavi, fratres et amici populi Romani."