Ruined Cities within Numidian and Carthaginian Territories ... With map and illustrations

Front matter

EUINED CITIES. RUINED CITIES wrrnis NUMIDIAN AND CARTHAGINIAN TERRITORIES. By N. DAVIS Vast 1W. T.I.V.M AT CASSABEEW WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS. Li.i.VDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1862. LONDON : BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS. Cfris Solum* IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED TO HIS EOYAL HIGHNESS PEINCE ALFRED, etc., etc., etc., IN COMMEMORATION OF HIS VISIT TO THE MOST EMINENT OF AFRIC'S RUINED CITIES, DURING THE PERIOD WHEN SOME OF ITS VENERABLE REMAINS WERE BEING EXCAVATED, Bt HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS'S MOST HUMBLE AND MOST OBEDIENT SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. TEBESSA, THE ANCIENT THEBESTE. PatK 160,

Preface

The country to which the reader's attention is directed in the following pages was partly visited by Dr. Shaw in the beginning of the eighteenth century, and is the same por tion of the world which first proved attractive to the great Abyssinian traveller. In 1763, or just a century ago, Lord Halifax, on assuming the reins of Government which Lord Chatham had resigned, proposed to Bruce a plan for exploring the classical portions of North Africa. He wished that traveller to be the first in the reign of His Majesty George III. to "set an example by procuring interesting information, and by making additions to the royal col-

PREFACE.

. VIII lection" of drawings of ancient cities and monuments. As an encouragement, his Lordship pledged himself to be the supporter and patron of the dauntless Scot, promising him substantial reward for services to his country in this field. As an official position was calculated to facilitate the enterprise, his Lordship offered him the post of British Consul at Algiers, giving him, at the same time, full permission to appoint a vice-consul to attend to the business of the office. Bruce did not accomplish much in this part of Africa, for this simple reason — he was bent upon solving a mighty problem which had for ages baffled the learned of many countries, and preferred a triumph at the " mysterious " sources of the Nile. The prevalence of piracy, the fierce and lawless character of the inhabitants of the Barbary coast, and the fanatical jealousy of their piratic governments, as well as other causes, combined in contributing towards keeping the civi lized world in ignorance of the real character of ancient remains which are dispersed throughout a country highly interesting for its association with the chequered history of Carthage, " the ocean's earliest queen " — a country famous also, among other great events, for the struggle with Jugurtha, in which the ambitious tyrants Marius and Sylla were engaged, and for the campaign of Julius Cæsar, which terminated in the defeat of the Republican party, headed by Scipio and Cato — a defeat which led to the inauguration of the Imperial Government of Rome.

PREFACE.

. IX After the conquest of a large portion of the North African continent by France, Moslem fanaticism was so far staggered, that a European was able to venture a little distance into the interior, and explore the vestiges of ancient civilization. The one who then made the attempt (and this was in 18.34) was Colonel Sir Grenville Temple. His book, however, which really deserves to be better known, has, from some cause or other, scarcely seen the light of day. But neither he, nor Shaw, nor Bruce have achieved much ; and, I may add, even now there are more ruined cities in Numidia, in Africa Proper, in the territories of Tripoli and Pentapolis, which have not been described by the traveller, than those with which the public has been made acquainted. For more information, and for more tangible results, we must wait till encouragement shall again be given to enterprises eminently so useful.

It will be observed that in my intercourse with the .Arabs (the present " lords of the soil " of classical Africa), with whom I came in contact in these migrations, I made them, wherever it was practicable, the exponents of their moral depravities and of their redeeming qualities. The reader is thus placed in a position to form his own estimate of thenreal character. Moreover, if his imagination is only sufficiently ardent, he can wander with me, participate in my toils and in my pleasures, in my privations and in my enjoyments, and that with this agreeable difference — he is able to give a degree of reality to the illusion of the one, while he can, at his option, readily dissipate the other. And with reference

PREFACE.

. X to the task which, like other authors, I have voluntarily imposed on myself, I will add — " If I have done well, and as is befitting the story, it is that which I aimed at ; if not, it is all I could achieve." N. DAVIS. 25, The Cedahs, Putney. ARCH AT HAMMAM— ANCIENT ASSURA. Ptlfft 69. Page 309. CAPE AFRICA. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Our Lady Of Bent Saidaan

PAGE Lilla Aysha — The Golden Horse — Preparations for the Journey — Discouragements — Departure — First Troubles — The Temple of Zucchara — Death of our Cicerone — Moorish Etiquette — Collegiate Course — Our Lady of Bent Saidaan — Fate of Government Officials — A Professor mistaken — A Piteous Situation — Necessity's Law — Treachery of our Protector 1-25

Chapter II. The Arab Patriarch

Mounting the "Maniac" — Halt at an Encampment — Ruins of Risca — Hospitable Reception from Lord Feraj — Evening Prayer and Evening Meal — A Picture — Scenery — Search for Water, and Disappointment — Inscriptions at the Ruins of Aquæ — Agriculture — A disconsolate Arab Maiden — Courage among Cowards — The Truth of Islaam — Effects of Despotism — Dreed Arabs — Ain Furnah — Seat of Justice — Wisdom of a Judge 26-50 CONTENTS. XII

Chapter III. Three Spare Bullets

PAGE A Challenge — The Enchanted Horse— The Idol Destroyed— Venerable Remains of Moghrawa— Domiciliary Search for Antiquities— A Trial —The Sentence Reversed— A Difficult Pass— Ruins of Hammam— Three Spare Bullets— Another Adventure— A Semicircular Gun— A Naval Hero and his large Key 51-76

Chapter IV. The Contest, Or The Unknown Hero

Petrifactions — Ruins of Mokthar — The Sheikh of the Hamaada — The Cane Steeple — The Unknown Hero — Visitors — The Refractory Chief — Ride to Elmedad — An Arab Taxpayer — Tombs and Ruins of Elmedad — A Lady in a Cage— Another Victim to our "Police" — Disappointment 77-103

Chapter V

A PRINCELY RECEPTION. The River Tana — A Natural Flower-Garden — Taxation — Barometrical and Superstitious Indications — The Moslem versus Nazarene Rule — A Watery March— Narrow Escape — Moslem Reformer — A Princely Reception — Deceitfnlness — Thala, Jugurtha's Stronghold — Its Modern Population —Weakness of the Thalian Fair Sex — Prison and Crime 104-127

Chapter VI. The Tables Turned

Ancient Boundaries — Noah's Dog— Inhospitality of the Chawaafed Precautionary Measures — A Bandit's Fate — Ruins of Hydra Treasure Seeking— Hydra, the Casa Nigra of Ecclesiastical History — Vestiges of African Christianity — A Mele"e — Its Issue — The Anaya, or Primitive Passport 12S-153

Chapter VII. The Moslem Under

" NAZARENE " RULE. Our New Companion— Ludicrous Robber Scene— Monuments of Violence —A Veritable Lion— Night March— Sumptuous Supper— Ruins of Teveste— French Conquests in Africa— Mamlook Government— The Youthful Nimrod ... . --, -,-0 • - 154-1/8 CONTENTS. XIII TAGR -206 -256 -280

Chapter VIII. The Bride Of Cassareen

Hammama Marauders — A Sham Assault — An Ancient Road — The Oulaad Naaja — A Wild Pass — Another Seat of Justice — Arab's Adaptation to Circumstances — United States' Flag — Diminutive Hero — A Jenoon or Spectre — The Deposed Governor — Rat-Catchers — The Ruins of Cassareen — Shaw's Blunders — A Verdant "True Believer" — Complaint of Hammama Arabs — The Bride of Cassareen . 179-

Chapter IX. The Black Dervish And The Moslem Patriot

Arab Misery — Contribution towards Marriage Festivals — Welcome from "True Believers" — Ruins of Feriana — Feriana in the time of Marius — The Modern Town — The " Holy Fraternity "— The Black Dervish — A Moslem Patriot — His Grievance — A Disappointment — Disappearance of one of our Party ...... 207-226

Chapter X. The Canvas City

Fording the Waad Foscana — A Collector of Charity — A fruitless Chace — Ruins of Sbaitla— A Moslem C.E. — Restoration of the "City of Judges" — The Restorer — A Friend in need — A quarrel among Thieves — The Black Inscription — We enter Africa Propria— Ruins of Gilma — Belaarem's Request— The Canvas City — The Prince 227-

Chapter XI

A MOSLEM GATE TO HEAVEN. A Government Appointment— An act of Treachery— The value of a Beard— A healthy Climate— Morning Scene in the Canvas City- Character of the Slaass Arabs— A shaven Horse— A Moslem Gate to Heaven — Description of Cairwaan — Inscriptions from its large Mosque—" Unbelievers " in " the Holy City "—Our quarters 257-

Chapter XII. Solitary, Yet Not Alone

An Arab's Domestic Economy— Our new Escort— A rude Arab Dame— The impotence of Nazarenes— First view of the Eljem Coliseum —The destroyers intimidated— The Coliseum— The modern Tisdrians — A terrible Night Journey — Arrival at Sarsura— A marvellous Digestion— Approach a Maritime City 281-301 CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XIII

CÆSAR'S LAST AFRICAN BATTLE-FIELD. PAGE Mehedeah and the Impostor Mohdi— Mehedeah proved to be the ancient Thapsus— The modem Town— An honest Merchant— The ancient Leptis — A Man of no mean descent — A restless dead Saint — A weeping Column— More ancient Towns— The speaking Leopard— A truly restless Night— Account of Monasteer — Arrival at Susa . 302-322

Chapter XIV. Maritime Towns Of

CÆSAR'S AFRICAN CAMPAIGN. A Dinner Party— The Moadzan and Church BeUs — A labyrinth in a Tomb — Susa, the ancient Ruspina — The Horse-dealer's Escape — Results of Usury — Remains of "Towers and Castles" on the Beach 323-337

Chapter XV. The Ruins Of

" PARADISE " AND THE REMAINS OF " THE HALL OF DEATH." .V Merry Guide — Ruins of Paradise — A Pilgrim's Knowledge — More Geographical Differences — Arrival at Hammamet — The Modern Town — The ancient Adrumentum 331-350

Chapter XVI. Farewell To My Tent

A Strange Procession — An Ample Dinner — Scenery — The Graves oi "the Forty" — Stronghold of " the Father of Tusks" — Encouraging Advice — Contempt for Nazarenes — Settlement of Accounts — FareweU to my Tent . . . - 351-363 APPENDICES. I.— Inscriptions referred to in this Work . . . 365-375 II.— BAROMETP.lC.vL AND ThERMOMETKIC-VL OBSERV44TIONS DUR- ING the months of Ai>iul and M..y . . . 376-377 III.— List of Birds in Latin, English, and French . . 378-384 IV. — Inscriptions from the Spanish MS. referred to in this Work 385-392 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE MAP To face page i MAUSOLEUM AT CASSAREEN iii TEBESSA, THE ANCIENT THEBESTE vii ARCH AT HAMMAM — ANCIENT ASSURA X CAPE AFRICA Xl MOKTHAR, THE ANCIENT TUCCA TEREBENTHINA 80 THE ANCIENT AND MODERN THALA 120 TRIUMPHAL ARCH OF SEVERUS, HYDRA 140 HYDRA, THE ANCIENT CASA NIGRA 144 CASSAREEN, THE ANCIENT COLONIA SCILLITANA 198 SBAITLA, THE ANCIENT SUFFETULA 231 THE CAMP, OR THE CANVAS CITY 255 C4.IRWAAN, A MOSLEM "GATE TO HEAVEN" — THE ANCIENT VICUS AUGUSTI It r,.t t..i,r.i i., i..t„, m....„. iii.„.„.,j, ...,-w mt;.. .1 I.V.I.. CWftlltCT EUINED CITIES IN AFBICA.

Chapter I. Our Lady Of Bent Saidaan

Lilla Aysha — The Golden Horse — Preparations for the Journey — Discouragements — Departure — First Troubles — The Temple of Zuechara — Death of our Cicerone— Moorish Etiquette — Collegiate Course — Our Lady of Bent Saidaan — Fate of Government Officials — A Professor mistaken — A Piteous Situation — Necessity's Law — Treachery of our Protector. Before quitting the scene of my labours at Carthage, I formed the resolution to return to .Africa, in order to visit a number of ruined cities, dispersed over a vast stretch of country, which once formed part of the dominion of a mighty empire. In accordance with that resolution I embarked at Leghorn ; after numerous disappointments caused by boisterous weather, and, contrary to my expectation, after a very pleasant passage of two days, I found myself again at Cagliari, in the society of my excellent, and learned, friend, the Commendatore Canonico Spano.

The proto-archæologist of the Island of Sardinia was in perfect ecstacy of joy on learning the purport of my voyage. " Carissimo Davis ! " he exclaimed, " gladly would I accompany you on a tour so interesting, but — " and here he paused, removing his clerical skull-cap, and scratching his head — " but," he continued, Tifter a brief interval, " I cannot cherish B the idea of exposing myself to the mercy of those savage Arabs. I must forego the pleasure of traversing that classic land, for I do not possess your dauntless courage. I had enough of .A^abs during my visit to the ruins of Carthage, he added, shaking his head. Having visited other literary friends, as well as His Excel lency the Governor, to whom I am greatly indebted for much kindness, I returned to the vessel, which steamed off for Tunis the same evening.

The following day, about 3 P.M., I was again in sight of the peninsula of Carthage, and shortly after we hugged its shore, having a clear view of its few solitary ruins, amidst which I toiled and roamed for four years, during which it was my lot to experience numerous vexatious disappointments, as well as the realisation of many hopes, which afforded me gratifying satisfaction and pleasure. We came to anchor too late to enable me to proceed to the capital of this Regency the same evening, for its gates are closed after sunset, when, according to an absurd regu lation, ingress and egress are alike disallowed. I therefore resolved to spend the night on board, and so did several of the other passengers. Early the following morning my friend and fellow-traveller, the U. S. Consul, came off to conduct me to his hospitable residence, where I was invited to take up my abode until our departure for the interior.

My effects, saddle, weapons, and instruments, were speedily deposited in the boat, and in a few minutes we glided past the custom-house, defying the scrutiny and intrusion of its greedy officials, for above us floated the glorious, but now agitated, stars and stripes ! Having landed at the Goletta, " the stronghold " of this Regency, where I met with a cordial welcome from my former acquaintances, among whom were the admiral of the port and the pro-consular agent, the worthy successor of my late friend Cav. Gaspary, we entered the carriage which was LILLA AYSHA. 3 waiting for us, and drove towards " the verdant city," Tunis el Khadra. Except in derision, the epithet khadra, " green," is inap plicable to a city which has the appearance of a vast necropolis, partly in mins and devoid of all verdure ; in a figurative sense it is even less true, for none are more shrewd, artful, and cunning, than the inhabitants of this metropolis.

Equally objectionable is Tasso's description of this city. It is only in a satirical sense that I can understand the line — "Tunisi ricca ed onorata sede." The road from the Goletta to Tunis runs over the tongue of land which is washed to the right by the Mediterranean, and to the left by the lake. .Anciently it was called the Taenia, and on its extremity the road diverges, that to the left, following the margin of the lake, leads to the capital, and the one to the right to the ruins of Carthage. If there is a spot on this globe which has to me a greater attraction than all the rest, it is the site of the prostrate ruins of the once lofty Carthage. Every man (and every woman, too) has some hobby, which, however, all have not the candour to confess. I have mine, and I frankly avow that every stone, and every fragment, of the remains of the city of Dido, has to my eyes a fascination and a charm, and possesses a value which defies the power of exact definition.

Imbued with such sentiments (or call it by whatever other term you please) could I be expected to pursue my way to a dilapidated Moorish town, when the hie jacet of the colossal tomb of Carthage presented itself to my view in unmist? ' °- able and large relief ? My friend saw the reasonableness of my suggestion, am. the coachman was forthwith directed to drive in the direction of the ruins, and to the ruins he accordingly drove. On reaching Dowar Eshutt, a village built on the B peninsula (and where during the progress of the excavations I resided a whole year), some of my former labourers and neighbours flocked round me to welcome me back, and among these Lilla Aysha was very conspicuous. This " lady " Aysha is the wife of an Arab named Hawaej, in whose field I dug the first trenches, and having had some thing in the shape of an encounter with him in consequence, we became afterwards great friends.

The lilla is very cor pulent, very short, very loquacious, very litigious, and, poor thing, very industrious. She took a great interest in my researches, and repeatedly related to me the dreams with which she was favoured, and they were all in connection with my work. " Welcome ! welcome ! " she exclaimed, whilst waddling towards me as fast as her obesity would permit. " I knew you would come back, for I dreamt of you only three nights ago. Now, I am aware," she continued, " you will say this is only an invention of mine, but I swear by the head of my daughters, by the head of my lord, by my head, by your head, and by the head of the Prophet himself, that I dreamt that I was present when you dug up the golden horse. I saw you most distinctly, as usual, with your whip in your hand, directing the workmen who were engaged in clearing away the earth from the glittering steed. 0 ! the joy that was depicted on your countenance I shall never forget ; and in your joy I and the workmen participated.

By the Prophet ! it was a sight to behold that animal when disencumbered from the earth which till then kept it from the view of man. It only required the breath of life in order to curvet and exhibit the powers which were so clearly deve loped in its whole formation. Who could estimate its value ? What basha, or consul, could afford to purchase it? The rumour of this discovery rapidly spread throughout the country, and vast multitudes flocked to see it. My joy was excessive, and I skipped about like a playful kid, for I THE GOLDEN HORSE. 5 knew you would be faithful to your word, and present me with the two thousand piastres you promised to give me whenever you should discover the golden horse. But, alas ! I awoke and found the whole was only a dream : but dig, dig, my child, for I feel confident you will yet find the golden horse.

Allah has undoubtedly brought you here to place you in possession of it, and my dream confirms Allah's design." My reluctance to accept Aysha's advice was perceptible to her and to those who, with me, listened to her dream. She regretted this, and so did some of the bystanders, for they were under the impression that I had returned to resume excavations, and would have gladly entered again into my service. But the one who was sincerely glad to see me back was my famous foreman, Ah Kareema. Knowing what would give me real pleasure, he took me to one of my own excavations, which, after my departure, he continued to explore. "What have you found here?" I asked him, after ex amining the locality. " Nothing, master," he replied, " but stones which I sell for building purposes. Hundreds of Hajaara have been at work among the ruins since your departure, and not one has found the least object worth notice.

Nothing was found here before you came, and nothing has been found since you left. You have unlocked these mysterious mounds, taken out of them what was valuable, and by your magic touch closed them again, to be re-opened at your option. Ba-ba-ba ! great, indeed, is the knowledge you possess of the wonderful book which indicates the precise spots where the remains of the works of the ancients are to be found." I smiled, and my friend, Mr. Nicholson, laughed right out when I translated to him Ali's words ! but the Arab declared that he had only stated what he believed to be the honest truth, and added that my Carthaginian exploits formed the frequent topic of conversation among the Hajaara, (stone searchers) at their re-unions in the cafe" of Dowar Eshutt ! The shrines of favourite madonnas, and the relics of patron saints, cannot possibly be visited, by the most devout votaries, with greater fondness, regard, and ardour, than I visited my favourite ruins.

I lingered among them for some time, and at last reluctantly resumed my seat in the carriage, and amidst the shouts of bislama, "go in peace," from my Arab friends, we drove off towards the city of Timis. The improvements I witnessed in the capital of the only Barbary state which has, to a certain extent, maintained its independence, reminded me forcibly of some of those strange anomalies one meets with in the course of one's peregrina tions — such as, e. g. a savage in tattered rags and a gaudy cocked hat, or another whose attire consists in a shirt collar and a pair of spurs ; or, to come nearer home, of an aged fop who seeks to renovate his wasted frame by paint, artificial teeth, a shining curly black wig, and other adjuncts of a similar nature. We have now in this "verdant" city, where one may, by chance, meet with some consumptive shrub, a piece of well-paved street, flanked by miserable mud cottages ; a magnificent edifice rising amidst crumbling huts ; some well-built houses surrounded by heaps of worthless ruins ; a few excellent mansions of European architecture, in whose immediate proximity are rivers and lakes of mud and filth, whose stench is insupportable.

It is a mere waste of property to attempt to improve a city, ill situated, ill built, and laid out without any regard to order, and the majority of whose houses are in a fearful state of dilapidation. But what is worse than all is, that the remains of Carthage are pulled to pieces in order to improve this wretched Moorish metropolis ! Taking into consideration the proverbial apathy and DISCOURAGEMENTS. indolence of the people of this country, I made an allowance of ten days which I sacrificed for completing the preparations for the journey. But I miscalculated, for this time did actually not suffice, and we wasted no less than a whole month in what could easily have been accomplished in three days in any civilised country. During this interval I spent much of my time with Arabs who were acquainted with parts of the country over which I intended to travel, and from them I gathered some useful information.

Among the Europeans there was only one who had visited parts of the interior, and that was Col. Caligaris, an Italian whom despotism had driven from his native country, and who found liberty and employment in Barbary ! During the reign of Ahmed Basha, Signor Caligaris was sent to survey a district near the French frontier, and this work brought him as far as the ruins of Hydra. He strongly advised me to take a large escort on account of the lawless character of the border Arabs, who neither recognise the authority of the Basha nor that of the French, who five upon plunder, and murder indiscriminately the subjects of both governments. He had a whole company of regular troops for his protection, and notwithstanding this force he was attacked. "Another enemy," he added (I presume as an additional encouragement), "you will have to encounter at Hydra is the lion — an animal very plentiful in that neighbourhood.

We were only half an hour encamped when some of my men came to inform me that they had discovered one near the river. I instantly ordered the necessary preparations and marched my troop towards the enemy. I lodged a bullet in the brute's head before he had time to discover the danger in which he was involved. In the twinkling of an eye he bounded towards me, and rent the air with his terrific roar ; but another bullet, which entered a vital part, checked his progess. He fell lashing violently his tail, and in his fierce rage, and dying agonies, he dug his claws into the ground, tearing it up all round him with the sharp and enormous nails with which he was armed. It was a mon strous brute ! I never came across a larger, and every one who saw the skin, which I carried off in triumph, pronounced it the most gigantic lion they had ever come in contact with."

It never rains but it pours. As if robbers, assassins, and lions were not sufficient to intimidate a poor mortal, we must yet have a combined plot of all " the faithful " of this part of Africa to exterminate the unbelieving Nazarenes. Such a report was officially transmitted to the consuls from Bizerta, Monasteer, and other places ; and there certainly was some ground for alarm, for very shortly before, a fanatical Dervish preached a crusade, or rather a cresenade, against "the execrable and loathsome Nassara, the infidel dogs," who, according to Moslem charity, are doomed to hell fire. The zealous preacher was executed for his temerity at the instance of the European representatives ; but the executioner could not possibly eradicate the lesson the Dervish had inculcated : and how could the " true believers " be expected to forget his lessons when they were so intimately interwoven with their temporal misery and wretchedness?

"The oppression and injustice you suffer from your government," said the Dervish, " your want and starvation, your wretchedness and misery, are all to be ascribed to those who hate you and despise your religion." It cannot be denied that there is some truth in this, for the government of Tunis has undergone a great change during the last few years. It is now, to speak more correctly, more autocratic in its form, and a Mamlook, named Mostafa or Mustapha, exercises absolute sway. Ostensibly this man is only a minister, but that he possesses unlimited, arbitrary and despotic power is an unquestionable fact. The Arabs groan under his yoke, and since M. Roche, the French consul is his chief adviser, the Dervish naturally ascribed the DEPARTURE. 9 calamities which weigh so heavily on " the faithful " to Nazarene detestation and malevolence towards them.

M. Roche's course has, no doubt, been very advantageous to himself personally, but that it is pregnant with gloomy forebodings, that it tends to some serious disaster, is equally certain. In spite of all discouraging and terrifying reports we pro ceeded with our preparations. We purchased horses, pro cured tents, and obtained an escort of two mounted police. We limited ourselves to this number on account of the difficulty we anticipated in procuring provisions for our men and barley for our horses. We resigned ourselves to our fate, and were prepared to encounter dangers from robbers, assassins, lions, and even from fanatical " believers ;" but the contemplation of there being even a remote probability that our horses might starve for want of barley we could not endure, and yet we knew that we had to pass through some very poor districts.

In such a country the traveller's first consideration ought to be his horse ; he ought then carefully to avoid unnecessary encumbrances — luxuries, unless they fall in his way, he should never even think of, and he should be particularly certain as to the goodness and quality of his ammunition and weapons. Having completed our arrangements we sent one hamba (gendarme) named Hamed, our cook Said, and Sadek, a kind of janissary attached to the American consulate, and a groom, with our baggage, tents, and saddle horses to Jugaar, or Zugaar as it is written on some maps, with instructions to wait for us there. Two days after, on April 1 5th, Mr. Nichol son, Mr. Henry Ferriere, and myself followed in a carriage, accompanied by the second hamba. The morning was particularly pleasant, and we were already some miles from Tunis when we were reminded that, on this very day the year previous, we started on a similar expedition, the particulars of which are recorded in " Carthage and Her Remains."

Just as we were reminded of this coincident our hamba rode up to inform us that his name was Machfuad, and added, yechfadna Allah — "may Allah protect us ! " This was a play upon his own name, which signifies protection, and the way in which this personage protected us will appear in the sequel. We pressed forward, and for some time kept near the lofty arches of the majestic aqueduct which conveyed the water from Jugaar to Carthage. Numerous bands of French work men were busily engaged, in different parts, in restoring this stupendous hydraulic monument of Carthage ; but their attention was chiefly confined to those portions which perforate the hills. The arches which span the plains are not to be used, but in their stead iron pipes are substituted, and these are of so frail a nature that, according to the information I possess, the contractor himself only warrants them for three years.

And yet the poor and miserable Arabs are to pay for this preposterous enterprise no less a sum than 7,000,000 of francs ! On our way we passed several ruins on either side of the road, and near the bridge which spans the Miliana, the Catada of antiquity, and at Hansheer Elgasbaat, close to St. Bo-Hameda, there are ancient remains of greater extent, but of no great interest. We only halted once on the road and reached our destina tion a httle before sunset, having travelled about forty-five miles. But behold the beginning of the accomplishment of the unlucky presages we noticed above ! Our party was encamped near the famous saintess Bent Saidaan, and in a miserable plight we found them. Said, the cook, was laid up with a burning fever. Sadek, the janissary, naturally stupid, was now thoroughly bewildered at the prospect of starvation, for the wokeel, the agent of the saintess, refused to <nve the requisite supphes.