Life in Asiatic Turkey. A journal of travel in Cilicia-Pedias and Trachœa-Isauria, and parts of Lycaonia and Cappadocia ... Map and illustrations, from original drawings by the author and Mr. Ancketill

Front matter

LIFE IN ASIATIC TURKEY. BY THE SAME AUTHOR. Medium 8vo, with Map and numerous Illustrations. Cloth, 10s. 6d. ANATOLICA; on. A VISIT TO SOME OF THE ANCIENT RUINED CITIES OF CARIA, PHRYGIA, LYCIA, AND PISIDIA. YOUROUK ENCAMPMENT in the Taurus LIFE IN ASIATIC TURKEY A JOURNAL OF TRAVEL IN CILICIA (PEDIAS AND TRACHŒA), ISAURIA, AND PARTS OF LYCAONIA AND CAPPADOCIA. BY THE REV. E. J. DAVIS, M.A., ENGLISH EPISC. CHAPLAIN, ALEXANDRIA. AUTHOR OF ' ANATOLICA ; OR, A VISIT TO SOME OF THE ANCIENT RUINED CITIES OF CARIA, PHRYGIA, LTCIA, AND PISIDIA.' jffitap anii Illustrations, FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS BY THE AUTHOR AND MR. M. ANCKETILL. LONDON : EDWARD STANFORD, 55, CHARING CROSS, S.W. 1879.

Preface

. When we consider the great number of European and Americau travellers who annually visit the Levant, it is strange how seldom any of them extends his journey into Northern Syria, or the adjacent provinces of Turkey in Asia. The hard and fast line of travel seems to be drawn at Beyrout, or a few miles to the northward of it. Northern Syria is almost a " terra incognita," the only good general map of it being that of Mr. E. G. Rey, published by the Paris Geographical Society. Indeed, for one traveller who explores this most inter esting region, there are thousands who hurry over the well-worn and familiar routes of Palestine. The adjacent territory of Karamania is almost equally unvisited, and only once perhaps in every thirty years does a European traveller painfully make his way through some portion of the province.

The only other Europeans who care to visit it are a few buyers of walnut wood, or leech merchants, chiefly Greeks, whose one aim is to forward their trade interests, and on whom the wonderful antiquities and surpassing beauties of the country naturally make but little impression. Of course there are good reasons to be given for all this. Until within a few years, so unsettled has been

PREFACE.

. VI the state of the country, that a European traveller would have incurred no slight personal danger, even though he bore a firman from the Porte, unless he could afford the expense of a numerous and well armed escort ; and even then, many parts of the border land between Syria and Karamania, and notably the Amanus and Giaour Dagh, would have been inac cessible, being in a state of chronic rebellion against the Government. Moreover, so unhealthy are many parts of the country, and so great the labour and privation an explorer of it must inevitably incur, that it is not strange the price should have been generally deemed too high to pay. Of late years, however, the authority of the Ottoman Government has been con siderably strengthened in S.E. Asia Minor ; commerce has begun to open up districts hitherto almost un known, and thus these very interesting regions may perhaps attract, ere long, that attention which their unrivalled natural beauty and their many historical associations deserve.

The following pages contain the record of a journey made in the summer of 1875 through portions of Cilicia, Lycaonia, Cappadocia, and the little known district of Isauria, including a visit to the ruins of ancient Isaura, which had been previously visited only by Hamilton in 1836, and by Texier a little before that period. At a time when the reputation of the Turks as a nation and a government is sunk to the lowest depth, it may be not uninteresting to see what that people is in a remote province of the empire, almost uninfluenced by the pseudo-civilization of Stamboul.

PREFACE.

. VII One cannot help pitying the ill-fortune of a race which is certainly endowed with many noble qualities, and regretting the sad destiny of a country which contains so many elements of material prosperity. And yet further, one cannot help protesting against the injustice, and want of fair play, displayed in 1876 towards the subjects of the Porte. The Ottoman Government is extremely bad, its sins of omission and commission notorious, but the people should not be confounded with the corrupt official and governing class. I mixed familiarly with them (scarcely coming in contact with the authorities except when it was absolutely necessary for the purposes of my journey), and they made a very favourable impression upon me, combined with a feeling of deep commiseration. As for any special class oppression of Christian by Muslim in Karamania, nothing of the kind exists, so far as my experience went.

Both classes unhappily suffer alike ; both are crushed by the same impartial tyranny and misrule ! Waiving, however, considerations as to the respective merits of the parties to the late war, we may at least admit that a people which has so valiantly defended itself under overwhelming odds against the hereditary foe of its name, religion, and race, deserves careful study, and may not be dismissed in the off hand manner so usual with some of our orators and newspaper writers. I have endeavoured to give a faithful description of the country and its inhabitants as I found them. If the following pages shall in any degree help to make

PREFACE.

. known what the Osmanli is at home, they will have done some service. Let us hope that the fiery trial of 1876-7 will be productive of good to the various races under the sceptre of the house of Othman. But if the conquest of the Osmanlis by Russia be the only means of improvement, the result can only be obtained after an amount of bloodshed and misery so awful that the whole civilized world will stand aghast at it ; nor will humanity gain anything by the substitution, for Osmanli misgovernment, of a new tyranny, more grinding, bigoted, and methodically merciless than the old ! I take the opportunity of acknowledging the kind assistance I have received from my friends Mr. M. Ancketill and Dr. Neroutsos Bey of Alexandria. Alexandria, November, 1878. PAGE 1-15 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER L THE COAST OF SYKIA.

Postal Service of the Coast of Syria — Acre, Sidon — A Resident's Opinion as to Turkish Administration — Halet Pasha — Essaad Pasha — Tripoli — The Kadisha — Mosque — Coast Line and Nusairiyeh Mountains — Alexandretta — — Causes of its Unhealthiness — Its Commercial Advantages — Constant changes of Governors — Want of means of Communication — Roads and Railroads could be easily constructed — Murder of a Missionary — Monuments of former British Residents — Want of Good Harbours — Mersina in 1812 — Causes of its increase — Description of Town — Europeans do not thrive there — Why — Plain of Mersina — Mounds

Chapter II. Meksina

POMPEIOPOLIS. ASA AB-EL-KEF. TCHANDEEB, Heat and Unhealthiness of Mersina — Summer Resortsj of the People — Geuzna — Ichma — Causes of the Misery of the Turkish Population — The Government does nothing, and will allow nothing to be done — Corruption of Provincial Governors — Ingratitude of Turks — Good Qualities, especially of the Lower Classes — A Comment on the Charge of Ingratitude brought against the Turks — Pompeiopolis — City Wall — Port now a Corn-field — Moles — Dimensions of Port — Colonnade — Inscriptions — Theatre — Utter Destruction of Town — Colonnade hitherto spared — Greek Schools — Hospital — Church — Funereal Monument — Purchase of Horses — Only one Road in Cilicia — Its History — Khalil, Taki Ed-Deen, and Mahmoud Pashas CONTENTS. X PAGE - Soil of Plain like that of the Delta of Egypt — Geuzluk Kalaat a Necropolis — Way in which a Finder of Anti quities is rewarded here — Filthiness of Tarsus — Its Un healthiness — The Christians advancing — Bazaars — Ex cellent Iron and Leather Work — Gardens round Tarsus — Nightingales — Armenian Church — Antique Treasure — Lower Level of Old City — Gates of Town — Walls — Tomb of Sardanapalus — Form and Dimensions — Falls of the Cydnus — Water of the Cydnus Unwholesome — Changes in Course of Stream — S. Paul's Well — Excursion to Asaab el-Kef — Sheikh of the Mosque and his Family — Imperial Benefactress — An Ancient Armenian Fortress — Church and Hermitage — Oppression endured by all Classes, Muslim and Rayah alike — Rock of Tchandeer — Translation of Armenian Inscriptions 16-47

Chapter III. Adana, Messis, And The Amanus

Plain once a vast Marsh — Look-out Mounds — Vineyards near Adana — The Seihoun (Sarus) — Ancient Bridge — Its History — Prosperity of Adana — Visit to the Wali — How the right of Petition in Turkey is suppressed — Unhealthiness during Summer — A Mining Engineer in the Ottoman Service — The Old Gold Mines of Philip II. and Alexander the Great — A Coal-mine at the Port of Ayass — Why so few Public Works succeed in Turkey — The Bishop of Adana — The Congregation — Character of the Bishop — An Improving Pasha — Exports of Cilicia — Tobacco Culture Disappearing — Why — Foreign Wheat and Cotton Seed degenerates in Cilicia — Advances to Cultivators — Risk in making them — Canals needed — Railway planned, but not made — Fine Port of Ayass — Scanty Population — No Trees on Plain — Turkish Population losing Ground — Christians rising — Great Transfer of Land from Muslim to Christian throughout the Interior — Slavery not Common — Brigandage diminished — Bridge of Adana — Deep and Violent Current of the Sarus — Personal Beauty and Fine Physique of the People — The Olou Jamaa — Great Plain — Nour Dagh — Bridge of Messis — Two of its Arches destroyed — Otter's Account of it in 1736 — Great Inundations — Ruins of Blopsuestia — Inscriptions — Border For- CONTENTS.

XI PAGE tresses — Ilan Kalesi — Kourt Kalesi — Extreme Beauty and Fertility of the Plain — Circassian Settlers and their Villages — Giamli Keui — Legend of Ilan Kalesi 48-75

Chapter IV. The Pyramus

GIAOUR DAGH AND MARASH. Swiftness and Depth of Pyramus — Toprak Kalasi — A Snake in the Grass — Osmanieh Recruits — Politeness and Grave Courtesy of the Osmanlis — Disturbed State of the Borderland — Robber Chiefs — Government obliged to suppress them — Stubborn resistance — Occasional Outbreaks occur even now — Mountaineers forced to settle in Plain — Osmanieh — A Keurdt like a Sculptured Figure from Nineveh — A Rayah Host — Talpouzi River — Devrishli Bel, the only Pass through the Giaour Dagh — Labourers to reap the Harvest in the Plain — Keupek Kalesi — Impracticable Group of Mountains — An Armenian Protestant Village — The Billali Pass — Poverty of the People, yet not without Compensating Advantages — We lose the Way — An Armenian Country Gentleman's House — A Warm Welcome to Starved Guests — Grace before and Music during Meat — Toros Chakrian's House — Our Host's Children — Our Host attacked by Brigands a few Weeks before — Giaour Dagh Minor and Lake — Ak Sou and Bridge — Khan at Marash — An Inspection of Weights and Measures — American Presbyterian Mission — Population of Marash — Religious Sects — Success of Protestant Mission — Military Servifce Tax — Climate and Health of Marash — Cheapness of Provisions — Trade and Manufactures — Fortress — Images of Lion and Panther — Visit to the Churches of the Protestant Mission — Routes from Osmanieh to Marash — Pass once closed by an Ancient Wall — Islahiyeh — Roads from Interior to Alexandretta could be easily constructed 76-103

Chapter V. The Kursoulou And Kayish Rivers

BAZAAR. BOUDROUM. Bridge over the Pyramus — Conglomerate — Landslips — An Armenian Hamlet — Confluence of the Rivers Kursoulou and Jeyhaan — Bridge over the Kursoulou — The Pass of Khadj Bel — Dourbin Dagh — Grand Volcanic Ridges of the Giaour Dagh — Bivouac in the Forest — CONTENTS. XII PAGE Endurance of the Cappadocian Horses — Little Cultivation — Scanty Population — Scarcity of Birds and Animals — Great Heat of Mountain Valleys — Ajemli — An Armenian United Family— Scorpion — Centipede —Venomous Snakes in Cilicia — Difficulty of obtaining precise Information from Orientals —Greek Inscription — The Guide to Boudroum — The Kayish Sou, and Broken Ancient Bridge— Koum Kalaat — Dangerous Ford — Churning — Forest Hills — Absence of Animal Life — Exhilarating Air — The Village of Kars or Bazaar — Site of a Considerable Ancient City — Anti quities — An angry Imam — Inscriptions — Exemption from Military Service Tax — Governor or other Official gives a Tone to the Administration — Mount Hemita — The only Relics of former Muslim Villages — Fort of Boudroum — Temple — Tombs — Site of the Ancient City — Colonnade — Churches — Second Colonnade — Theatre — Gymnasium — Inscription — Danger of lingering in such Solitary Spots near the Frontier — Summer Camp of the Villagers of Hemita 104-135

Chapter VI. The Savroon And Sombaz Rivers

ROCK FORTRESS OF ANAZARBA AND SIS. Churning and Bread-making — Threshing Machine — Fort of Hemita — Windlass at the Perry — Fords on the Savroon — The Sombaz — The Present Owner of Anazarba — Low Price of Land — Arslan's House — System of Cultivation — Double Wall (ancient) with Towers — Earthquakes which had Destroyed the Town — Arch of Triumph — Theatre — Stadium — Three ancient Aqueducts — Ascent to the Fortress — Church and place of Burial of the Roupenian Thakavors of Armenia (Minor) — Inner Enceinte of Fortress inaccessible — Inscription on Rock outside the City Gate — Turkman Camp — Beauty of the Approach to Sis — The Khan — Carelessness of Orientals as to Personal Corveniences — Church of the Patriarchate — Shrines — Coronation Chair of the Armenian Kings — Bells — Fortress almost Impregnable in Middle Ages Captured by Muslin... of Egypt — Intense Heat of the Plain — No Trees, scarcely even Bushes on it — Bivouac — Suspicious Visitors — Method of tethering Horses to prevent Theft — A slight Mistake — A Day of " Thunder, Lightning, (Hail, and) Rain " — Miserable State of the People in such a Season — Our Greek Interpreter abandons us — Fashionable Resorts of the Adaniots 136-164 CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter VII. Life In Adana

PAGE Always try to be a Debtor in the Levant, never a Creditor — My Friend's Sickness — Danger of neglecting the Endemic Diseases of these Lands — Great amount of Malaria in the Plain — Epidemic of Typhus in 1873-4 — Of Small-pox in 1874 — Religious Sects in Adana — Sleeping Cribs in Summer — Midnight Call to Prayer — Market Day in Adana — Labourers — Wages — Scarcity of the Precious Metals — Great Mortality amongst the Labourers — Their Peaceable Behaviour — A Model to Nations of higher pretensions to Civilization — Executions in Adana — A Scene of Horror at an Execution — Prisons in Adana — Increasing Sickness of my Friend — The End — River-side Cafe — Beauty of Adana — Noble Mountain Scenery — Ajemi Kahve — True Politeness of the Company — Exquisite Atmospheric Effects — Free Trade not the Rule . here — Supply and Price of Food — No Adulteration in Turkey — Mechanics' Wages — Produce and Trade of Cilicia — Scarcity in 1873 — Barley — Transport — Cotton of Cilicia — Wool — Sesame Seed — Imports — Rate of Interest — Fellahhin Borrow — but Repayment uncertain — The Dime — Protestant Armenian Chapel — Real Religious Liberty in Turkey — Education in Adana — Christian Sects fast advancing in Education — Backwardness of Turks in this respect — The Sheikh of the Sourijis — The Defterdar of the Province — Scene in his Bureau — Prefect of Police of Adana — A Conversation on Politics — The Russians — Vakoob Beg — Environs of Adana unsafe even now — Support from the Authorities necessary for the Traveller in Asia Minor 165-197

Chapter VIII. Highlands Of Cilicia

THE CILICIAN GATES. PASS OF BOZANTI. No Travelling by Day in the Plain — A Night March — Jackals — Labourers exposed to the deadly Night Air — A Fever-stricken Village — Approach to the Highlands — Turkmans — Taramiz Fountain — Specimen of the Way in which a Turkish Governor recoups himself — Entrance to the Pass of " Kulek Boghaz " — Geuzluk Khan — "Water, Stones, CONTENTS. XIV PAGE and a Bench to Sleep on " — Sunstroke most common in earlier Part of the Day — Snow-range in Brilliant Sunlight — Ravine leading to the Pylœ Ciliciæ — A Naturalist in the Mountains — ■ House of the Austrian Botanist, Kotchy — Opinions as to Russian aims by a Traveller of Ex perience — The Village only affords Water — Peak above Defile — A Night on the Roof of the Police Station — Ibrahim Pasha's rule in Cilicia — Passes from the Interior over the Mountain Chain rendered impracticable — The Pylœ Ciliciæ — Tremendous Rock-walls — No Egyptian or Assyrian Inscriptions — Ibrahim Pasha's Entrenchments — Hadjin Dagh — Bel Amalik Dagh — Khan at Bozanti — An Armenian Host who knows how to Charge — Ak Keupri — Two Sources of unwholesome Water — Ravine of the Ak Sou — Tahta Keupri — Roman Bath, and Hot Mineral Spring — Tchifteh Khan — Vast Precipices of the Bulghar Dagh 198-220

Chapter IX. Oloukishla

PLAIN OF LYCAONIA. EREGLI. Visit to the Mines of Bulghar Maden — Haniathite Inscription — Oloukishla — A Turkish Salaamlik — The Great Khan — Mosque, Bath, and Bazaar all in Ruins— Contributions to Supper — A hungry Party — Sufferings of Village during the Famine — The Lemurs — First View of the Great Plain of Lycaonia — Symmetrical Volcanic Cones — Extreme Beauty of Flowers — Lonesomeness of the Countiy — Village of Tchaian in Famine Time — Piteous Tale of Suffering — Estimated Loss of Flocks and Herds not exaggerated — Hassan Dagh and Karajah Dagh — Causes of the unhealthy Climate of Lycaonia — Position of Eregli — The Ak Gol ("White Lake") — The Duden — Visitors from a Famine-stricken Village — Hadji Hassan's Garden — Tameness of the Birds — Nightingales — Storks — An Osmanli's Repose A Good Waiter — Little Osman and his afflictions — How we fared at Eregli 221-244

Chapter X. Ibreez

THE GREAT PLAIN. DEVLEH. Start for Ibreez — Extreme beauty of Landscape — A Picturesque Karamanian Lane — Number and Tameness of the Nightingales — The River of Ibreez — The Mukhtar's House CONTENTS. XV PAGE — Great Source under Red Precipices — Hamathite In scriptions and Bas-relief — Our Armenian Guide — A would-be Soldier — A ruined Christian Hermitage — Ali Aga's Unwelcome Guests ■ — Valuing the Dime — Bitter Complaint of Peasants — The Ushirjis discuss the Stream with me — Their Legend of its Origin — Description of the Bas-relief and Inscriptions — Ibreez visited by Otter in 1737 — In 1840 by Moltke and Fischer — Cruel Oppression of the People — Yet they submit — Fish of the Ibreez River — A Night Walk through the Lanes of Eregli — Price of Provisions in Eregli — Prices in former Days — Baron de Tott — The Asper — Para — Cost of entertaining Man and Horse at Van two centuries ago — Price of a Horse in 1705 — A Cheap Entertainment — Cost of a Ship of War in 1750 — in 1657 — in 1820 —Pent in Khans of Con stantinople two Centuries ago — Visitors — An Armenian Priest — Magnificence of Flowers on the Great Plain — Dreary District round Devleh — Suffering and Loss of the Villagers during the Famine 245-269

Chapter XI. Derbe

KARAMAN. Rock Cemetery — Brilliant Colouring of the Plain — Treacherous Climate — Excavating the Sarcophagus — Serpek on the Site of Ancient Derbe — Derivation of the Name Devleh — Tradition of Villagers — Our Hostess's Butter — Storehouses of the Natives — Wages — Sterling Character of the Osmanlis — Climate in Winter — Wolves — How the Peasants pass the Winter — Happy Condition before the Famine — Laziness of the Men — Inscriptions — Volcanic Cones — Discovery of the Sarcophagus — Dimensions — It had been broken into before — Its Contents — Description of the Sarcophagus — Brilliant Colouring of the Mountain Ranges — A Wilderness — The Tomb of Hadji Aimed — Great Marsh — Clearness of the Air — Sidevre — Inhospitality of its People — A Keurdt — The Yeni Khan — A Hospitable Friend, and his History — The Merchants of Kaisariyeh — Appearance of Karaman — Climate — Former Importance of the Place — Mosques — Valideh Tekkesi — Khatounieh — Beautiful Gateway — No Remains of Ancient Laranda — Courtesy and Kindness of the People of Karaman 270-300 CONTENTS. PAGE ■333

Chapter XII. Lystra

KESTEL. MAUGA. MOUT. Excursion to Kara Dagh — Extreme Penury of u_e Provincial Governments — Village of Kilbassen — Its Sufferings during the Famine — The Land Changing Hands — Turkish Population Diminishing — Bin Bir Kihsseh (The Thousand and one Churches) — Village of Maden Shehir — A Turkish Betrothed Maiden — Pastoral Music — Our Host — Ruins — Probably this is the Site of Lystra — Kenger Coffee — Huge Antique Water Vessel — Brigands in Bozalla Dagh — The Kaimakam's Warning to us — The People Better than their Reputation — Deep Limestone Ravine — Village of Geuezz — The Mukhtar's Granary — Thunder-storm — The Village in Famine Time — A Delicate Question — Passes through the Taurus to the Sea Coast — Echoes of Thunder in the Ravine — Native Archæologists — Geudett — Its Yaila and Hospitable People — Climate and Appearance of this Highland District ■ — Kestel Dagh and Village — Hospitality is refused us — The Kaimakam's Secretary — Visitors — Their Discontent with their own Government — A Conversation on Politics — Ruins of an Ancient City — Church — Fort — The Valley of the Gieuk Sou (Calycadnus) — A Night with the Yourouks — The Rock Fortress of Mauga — Tremendous Rock Precipices and Abysses — Arabic Inscription — Heat of the River Valley — Intense Solitude of the Pine Woods — Fountain of Mout — Castle of Mout, and Mausolea of the Sons of Karaman Oglou — The Fountain at Evening .. .. 301

Chapter XIII. Valley Of The Calycadnus

PALŒPOLIS. ERMENEK. Claudiopolis — The Yatar Tash — Latin Inscription — Guides to Ford the River — Swiftness of the Gieuk Sou — Adrass, Bardat, and Geden Mountains — Villagers Refuse a Guide — Churlishness of the Peasantry of this District - - Vast Forests — Precipices of Adrass and Bardat — Bivouac with the Miller of Bejeh — The Volcanic Flame on Daoush CONTENTS. XVII PAGE •360 •398 Tepe — Ruins of Balabolu (Palæpolis) — Sarcophagi — Huge Old Juniper Trees — Tradition of the Capture of the City — Tombs of the Muslim Soldiers — Snakes and Snake Bites — Effect of a Good Cuffing — The Tea Plant Grows Wild in these Mountains — " Tell us how to find the Buried Treasures!" — The Korou Deresi (Parched Valley) — De scent to Ermenek — Terrible Hail-storm — Our Khan Swamped — Immense Damage done by the Hail — Descrip tion of Ermenek and its Neighbourhood — Difficulty of Reaching the Sea Coast — Beauty of the Children and Young Girls — Nahli's Former Visit to Ermenek, and Adventures there — Nawahi — Gelibel Dagh — Yourouk Camp at Al toun Tash — A Hospitable Old Lady and her Daughter 334-

Chapter XIV. Tchukour

DURGELLER. ALATA. KHADEM. Passage of Muharram Bel — Kizilja and its Kadi — Guide to the Inscription of Tchukour — Had been a Prisoner of War at Tiflis — Coarse Barley Bread — Tchukour — The Officer from Stamboul — Ravine of the Gieuk Sou — Rock Fortress — Latin Inscription — Wild District — An Assassination — Fountains of Yerkooblu — " Black Water " — The Hospitable Mudir of Durgeller — Derivation of the word " Durgeller " — Villagers have a Bad Reputation — The Head Servant warns me against Thieves — Precautions of our Souriji — Start for Alata — A Disagreeable Zaptieh — View over Isauria — Anxiety on Account of my Baggage — A Line of Precipices — Villagers of Alata Inhospitable — Difficulty of finding a Guide — Remarkable Geology of the District — Mernak — Handsome Room of the Mukhtar — The Serai at Khadem — The Kaimakam and his Friends — I am Suspected of being a Russian Spy — The House of the Mufti of Khadem — Fever — Visitors — My Host a Fine Specimen of the Osmanli Country Gentleman — A Native Doctor — Healthy Climate of Khadem — My Host's House — His Hospitality — His Wealth — The History of his Family, and their Settlement in Khadem — The True Meccan Coffee — His Sons — Their Great Respect for him — Filial Piety amongst the Osmanlis — An Examination of Nahli — " You Tchelebi, I suppose, do drink Raki ? " .. 361 b CONTENTS.

Chapter XV. Mountains Of Isauria

RUINS OF ISAURA. PAGE Birds — Nahli's Grievance — The Mufti's Kindness — An Excellent Zaptieh — Course of the Alata River — Site of an Ancient Ruined Town — Mosque of Bolat — Ibex Horns — High Plateau — Extensive Vine Cultivation — Endurance of our Zaptieh — Ashikler — Dreadful Ascent to it — Wild Appearance of the Isaurian Country — Temple Tombs — Gateway of Isaura — Fortifications — Bas-reliefs — Arch of Triumph — Inscriptions — Agora — The Great Look-out Tower — Ideas about Buried Treasure — Vast Ranges of Mountains seen from Isaura — Lake of Seidi Shehir — The Porch of the Mosque at Aijilar — Origin of the Name — Routes in the Mountains of Isauria — Elmasun — Inhospitable Villagers — Obliged to Billet Ourselves — Intense Heat and Lonesomeness of the Great Plain — Bussola — Cassaba — A Funeral — Resignation of the Muslim not from Apathy — Anecdote in Point — Behaviour of the Muslim under Affliction — Ilisera — Return to Karaman 399-430

Chapter XVI. Pass Of Dumbelek

HIGH RANGES OF TAURUS. EFRENK. Change in the Climate since our Former Visit — Unable to Obtain Baggage Horses — High Charges of the Khanji — Greed and Overreaching Spirit of Most Oriental Christians — Their General Character when they become Rich — Village of Ibrala — A Cool Reception — The Evening Prayer — Rocky Plateau above Ibrala to the Base of the High Mountains — No Water for Seven Hours' March — Fountain, but no Shade — Characteristic Reply of an Old Osmanli Shepherd — Camp of Mustafa Tekerlek — Appearance and Behaviour of the Yourouk Chief — An Alvanlo Villager in Hiding — Yourouks Necessary in these Mountains for the Safety of Travellers — Mustafa examines our Souriji — A Starvation Supper — The Tea Plant grows Wild here — Our Revolvers — Obtrusive Behaviour of the Alvanlo Man — Mustafa's Heart fails Him — Turkish Form of Taking Leave — We Learn more about Mustafa Tekerlek — Descent into Valley of Efrenk — Our Lodging for the Night — Humidity of the Valley — A Case of Sunstroke 431-447 CONTENTS. XIX