Anatolica; or, the Journal of a visit to some of the ancient ruined cities of Caria, Phrygia, Lycia, and Pisidia

Front matter

ANATOLICA. A MAP ()|« THE AITIIOKS ROUTE. ASIA MINOR by W.ll.;.!.! Bmry F Plate L L. D. //,.//■' , Ttgyptum ■ ■■■ <ah <>t the Ortmttal J nHW /.' R tir.-i/ni/'/i to 3* 40 so 00 70 so »€ IPO ... (.■■■mi t 1 — t 1— i ■ ■> t- -t Roman Murs hi.rr- 1 ■ ■ 1 t — -t- ■■ ■■■■' 1 ■ ,1 1 ytov.i y » r -^-*g-*y y ,r ? r. mm- London: GmbI & C? Turiiinill Strceet ANATOLICA; OR, THE JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO SOME OF THE ANCIENT RUINED CITIES OF CARIA, PHRYGIA, LYCIA, AND PISIDIA. BY THE Rev. E. J. DAVIS, h.b.m.'s episc. Consular chaplain. Alexandria. Hondo n : GRANT & CO., TURNMILL STREET, E.C. 1874. LONDON GRANT AND CO., PRINTERS, TURNMILL STREET, E.C.

Preface

. Many years ago, when a boy at school, I happened to receive a copy of Sir C. Fellows's " Asia Minor and Lycia." Thenceforward it was a dream of my life to visit the interesting country therein de scribed. There seemed little prospect of the dream ever becoming a reality ; but circumstances made me a resident in the East ; and at last in 1872, during a temporary leave of absence from my post, I was able to accomplish the long cherished desire. It is with some diffidence that I venture to publish the following account of my journey ; VI

PREFACE.

. but it may perhaps contribute something to our knoAvledge of a most beautiful and interesting country, still little knoAvn to Europeans, although so near Europe, and perhaps destined to play a great part hereafter in the affairs of the East. I have tried to describe things faithfully as I saw them. The brief time I could give to the journey, and the want of a library of reference — indeed of all those literary aids which abound in Europe, but in Egypt exist not — must be my excuse for any errors or deficiencies. Alexandria, August, 1874. PAGE I CONTENTS.

Chapter I

On board the Austrian Lloyd's Steamer — Deck Passengers — Negro Slaves — Slavery in Egypt — The Sporades — Want of Wood — Sponge Fishery — Leros — Samos — Scio — Mastic — The Gulf of Smyrna — Sanjak Kalesy — Distant View of Smyrna — Fortress on Mount Pagus — Interior of the City — Its Climate and Health — Heat — The Imbat — Land Breeze — Position of Smyrna — Water Supply — Octroi — Exports — Figs and Raisins — Cemetery at Caravan Bridge — The Meles — Diana's Bath — Bournabat — Its Gardens — Sunset in the Plain — Boujah — Camellias at Bournabat — A Greek Dragoman ...........

Chapter II

Smyrna and Aidin Railway — Aqueducts behind the Castle Hill — Plain of Boujah — Caravans — Plains of Anatolia — Malarious Fever — Cholera — Yourouk Shepherds — Kedji Kalesy — The Cayster — Greek Brigands — Manouli — Aiasolouk — Gateway — Mosque — Aqueduct — Storks — Changes in the Formation of the Plain of Ephesus — Instance from Pliny — Port of the Great Temple — Changes in the Position of the Old City — Hill of Prion — Street of Tombs — Wild Fennel — Magnesian Gate — Thermæ — Odeum — Theatre — Port of the City of Ephesus — Earthquake in the Reign of Tiberius — Great Gymnasium — Walls of the City and along the Ridge of Coressus — Monolithic Basin — Stadium — Site of the Temple of Diana — Its Double Pavement — Pausanias' Account of the Worship of Artemis — Changes in Name and Position of Ephesus — Great Quantity of Alluvium deposited by the Cayster — Harbour of the Old City ruined CONTENTS. VIII PAGE

Chapter III

Dr. Richard Chandler's Account of the Temple of the Ephesian Artemis as described by the Ancient Authorities . . .46

Chapter IV

Ravine near the Azizieh Tunnels — Ancient Aqueduct— A Soldier of the Turkish Contingent in the Crimea — Anecdote of the Damascus Massacre in 1857 — Ravine of the Lethæus — First View of the Plain of the Mæander — Mount Messogis— Its Beauty — Aidin (Tralles) — Cemeteries in the Mæander Valley — Khan at Nazli — Bazaar at Nazli— The Zeybeks — Zeybek Robbers — Costume — Our Party — Our Muleteers — Opening in Mount Messogis — The "Asian Meadow" — Stream and Bridge of tvhe Mæander — Valley of the Mosynus — Cafe at Ali Aga Tchiftlik — Formation of the Country — River Ak Soo (Mosynus) — Chalk Cliffs — Verdure of the Country — Kara Soo — Its Torrent — Ravines — Khan at Kara Soo — Descent from the Town — Geera (Aphrodisias) — Walls of the City — Great Number of Inscriptions — Gateway — Stadium — Temple of Aphrodite — Agora — Remains of other Temples — Vast Mass of Ruin — Material — Two fine Sarcophagi — Their present Use 60

Chapter V

Torrents from Baba Dagh (Mount Cadmus) — Parched District- Pass of Tcham Beli — Caffinehs in the Mountain Passes — Tomb of a Muslim Saint — Tcheragh — Cairn — Curious Custom — Mount Cadmus — Plain of Dawas (Tabœ) — View from Top of Pass — Torrent Bed at Edge of Plain — The " Stranger's Room " in a Turkish Village — Hospitality of Turks — Kara Hissar— Dwellings, Furniture, and Food of Peasantry — Makuf — Kilidja Bolouk — Number and Beauty of the Children — We lose our Way — Ascent of the Seiteen Yailas — Volcanic Evidences — Forest — Descent of the Mountain — Caf6 at the Mouth of the Bedra Pass — Defeat of the French Crusaders under Louis VII. in this Pass — Scenery of the Bedra Pass — Thunderstorm — Plain of Denizli — Town of Denizli— Khan — Greek Khanji — Eski Hissar (Laodicea) — Aqueduct— Benefactors to the Old City — Its fine Wool — Stadium — Thermæ — Gymnasium — Small Theatre — Large Theatre — Odeum— Sculpture— Destruction of the Antiquities of Laodicea — Desolation of the City . . . . .78 CONTENTS. IX

Chapter VI. Page

Bridge over the Caprus— The Ak Soo (Lycus) — Our Lodging at Hierapolis (Pambouk Kalesy)— Tree full of Storks' Nests — View over the Plain of the Lycus — Our Host's Family — Turkish Women in a better position than Arab Women — Their Musical Voices— Position of Hierapolis— Effect of the Petrifying AVaters— Watercourses— Deposit of Calc Tuff — The Cascade— Basins in it— Heat of the Water— Its Pro perties — Pine Water-vessels — Visit to the Ruins — Bridge over the Ravine to the West — Mausolea— Rock Tombs — Street of Tombs — Sarcophagi — Ruins of great Church — Monument of Stephanus — Other Ruins — Theatre — Great Source — Its Depth — Deadly Exhalations of Carbonic Acid Gas — Ancient Accounts of the Plutonium — Strabo — Pliny — Dion Cassius — Thermæ — Gymnasium — Epictetus — Greek Church suppressed by the Latin Crusaders — Wool of Hierapolis — Its present Desolation— Return to Smyrna of most of our Party 97

Chapter VII

Parched District — ■ Bridge over the Lycus — Yourouk Tribe Emigrating — Shepherd's Bridge — Ravine of the Ak Soo — Site of Colossæ — Barrow— Remains of the Old City — Petrifying Streams — Chasm of the Lycus — Explanation of its Formation — Last Bishop of Colossæ — Ride to Khonas — Beauty of the Country — Village of Khonas — House of Ibrahim Aga — No Antiquities at Khonas — Beauty of the Children— Visit of the Villagers— The Kadi— Want of Education among the People — Beauty of the Country to the west of Khonas — The Kazik Pass — Our Escort — Mount Khonas — Tchukour — Brigands' Place of Ambush — Plain of Karajuk — Its Rivers — Cibyratic Confederation — Crops— Soil — Irrigation—Geological Formation — Karajuk Bazaar— Khau— Greek Khanji — Disturbed State of the Country— Arab Servant at Khan — Ravine and Village of Geunahi — Barren Soil and Miserable Crops — Eschler Yailas — Desolate Aspect of the Country — Poverty of the Villagers — Money-lenders — Causes of Misery in a Turkish Village — Salt Lake of Salda — Karaatlu — Our Host — His House — Crops — Forests — Carelessness in the Management of the Forests— Fires in the Forests — Our Evening Meal X CONTENTS. PAGI

Chapter VIII

Rock Carvings at Karaatlu— Dangers of Wealth in Turkey — The Poppy — Opium— Village of Naoulo— Lake of Yarishli — View — Inscription over the Village Fountain — Lacina — Statue near the Lake — Appearance of Country — Beauty of View over the Lake of Buldour — Village of Yarakeui — The Villagers — Inscription in the Cemetery — Yasakeui — Rich Colour of Cliffs and Soil— Buldour— Khan— Our Evening Meal — Environs of the Town — Guschla — Tchartchin — Volcanic Formation — Rich Colour of Soil — A Yaila — Yaraseen — Road through Volcanic Hills to Sparta — Plain of Sparta — Government Police (Zaptieh) — Pambouk Khan — Mosque — Greek Schools — Greek not spoken here till quite lately — An Antique Statue from Cibyra (Horzoom) — How Sparta was Founded — Its Thriving Appearance — Mines in the District — AArant of Roads — Railroad might easily be made — We are Summoned before the Governor — Greek Church — Good Houses — Pretty Situation of the Town — Improvement in the Behaviour of the Turks to Christians — Wealth of People — Climate — Crops — Expense of Transport — Instance — A Railway Projected from Sparta to Adalia — Bargaining of Orientals — Earthenware Plates . . • '35

Chapter IX

Suburb of Sparta — Pass through Volcanic Hills — Strange Formation of Strata — Yaila at Foot of Aghlasun Mountains — Ascent of the Mountain Chain — Fine View from the Summit — Steepness of the Mountain — Paul Lucas on Ruins of Sagalassus — Ruined Temple and Fort in the Pass — Village of Aghlasun — Ravine leading up to the Site of Sagalassus — Position of the Ancient City — Rock Tombs in Perpendicular Cliff behind the City — Ruin of a Large Christian Church — Site of Great Temple — Agora — Portico — Another Temple — Great variety of Columns — Theatre — Fine Subterranean Corridor — Architecture and Ornamentation of Buildings — Thunderstorm — All Antiquities taken by the Government — Notices of Sagalassus and the Pisidian Race — Their Language — Government — Arrian's Account of the Capture of Sagalassus by Alexander the Great — Strabo's Account of Selge- Livy's Account of the Expedition of C. Manlius Vulso into Pisidia — Submission of Sagalassus — Strabo's Notice of the City CONTENTS. XI PAGE 177

Chapter X

Cemetery of Aghlasun — Yourouk Tribe Emigrating— Village of Assarkeui — Ravine of Assarkeui — Stupendous Precipices — Romantic View of the Mount Taurus Range — Primeval Forest — AVe lose our way— Thunderstorm — Descent and Ascent through the Forest— Arrival at Girmeh (Kremna) — Our Lodging and Host — Magnificent View of the Valley of the Kestrus — Ascent to the Old City — Its Position — Stupendous Precipices — View from the Plateau — Desolate Aspect of the Country — Thick Forest — Grand Mountain Ranges and their Position — Depth of the Ravine through which we had come — Zosimus' History of a Blockade of Kremna — Round Temples— View of Davre — Paved Area — Site of Agora and Temple — Vast Cisterns — Fluted Columns — Triumphal Arch — Paved Street — Second Paved Street — Fortifications of Old City — Seat Quarried in the Rock at Edge of Precipice — Great Gateway — Mausoleum — Strabo's Notice of Kremna — Captured by Amyntas— Sandalion — Kremna made a Roman Colony — Road through the Forest to Boujak — Our Host — His Opinion about our Journey — Exactions of Government Officials and Misery of Peasantry — Plain of Boujak — Native Carts — Aspect of the Country — Khan at Soosuz — Cafe of Badem Aghadj — Suspicious Company — Ravine Leading to the Pass of Termessus Minor — Great Number of Cemeteries — Cretopolis — Village of Beli .

Chapter XI

Pass of Termessus Minor — Steepness of the Road — Ruins of the Ancient City and Fort — The Roman Road — AVheelmarks in the Pavement — Ruins at the Foot of the Pass — The Plain of Adalia — Its insalubrity — Emigration of its Inhabitants in Summer — Village of Kovajik — Our Bivouac — Proper Diet for a Traveller in these Warm Regions — Misery of the Villagers — Heat — Fleas — Mosquitos — Fever — Want of Water — Fertility of the Soil — Superior Condition of the Pastoral Races in Anatolia — Value of Sheep sold in Smyrna by a Yourouk Chief — Amount of Government Taxes — Aspect of the Plain of Adalia — Khan of Tchibouk Boghazi — Bridge over the Duden Soo (Catarractes) — Petrified Deposit on Surface of Plain — Ateran Cafe — Heat of Plain — Drunken Greek at Cafe — Lower Plateau on which Adalia stands — Appearance of Cliff — Deposit like that at Hierapolis— Cause CONTENTS.

XII PAGE 20O 220 — Catarractes has flowed in Different Channels — Nedjib Pasha's Road — Description of Adalia — Old Fortifications — Port— Wreck of an Egyptian Frigate — Marble Gateway in Wall — Various Inscriptions — Gateway near the Port — Exports of Adalia — Notices of Adalia — Attalus Philadelphus — Louis VII. — Magnificent Ranges of Mountains opposite Adalia — Climax — Solyma — Bey Dagh — Takhtalu Dagh (Olympus) — Zenicetus the Cilician Pirate — Alexander's passage under Climax — Heat, and Danger of Malarious Fever — We are unable to pass through the South of Lycia .

Chapter XII

Collection of Antique Medals at Adalia — Heat in the Plain — Ignorance of the People concerning the Natural Features of their Country — Kepez Cafe — Bed of Petrified Deposit — Theory of its Formation — Sarcophagi — Uzumkoyou CasiS — Ancient Well — Ruins of Aarassus — Deep Torrent Bed — Almalu Pass — Gulelik Dagh — Hellenic Wall and Forts in the Pass — Yenijah Khan Cafe — Ascent to the Ruins of Termessus — Arrian's Account of the Old City — Its Position — Dense Vegetation — Ancient Paved Road — Two Ancient Guard-houses — First Wall — Enclosed Ravine leading up to the City — A'ast Number of Sarcophagi — Ruins — Spring — Second Wall across the Ravine — Another Spring — Ruins — Third AVall — Site of the City— Difficulty of Examining Ruins — Fourth AVall — Deep Precipices round the Plateau — Paved Street — Agora — Cisterns — Ruins of other Buildings— Theatre — View from the City — Desolation of the Place — Thickets of Wild Roses — Water Supply at the Khan — Alexander's Attack on Termessus — It submits to Manlius — Strabo's Notice of it — The Almalu Pass — Solar Heat — Yaila at Head of Pass — Plain of Almalu — Appearance of Country — Torrent of Stenez — Descent into the Plain of Karditch — Great Extent of these Plains — Bivouac of the Villagers of Soosuz — Misery of the Peasants ........

Chapter XIII

Heat of the Day— Cold of the Night on this Plateau — Yaila— Desolate Country — Plain of Almalu — Its Sterility — The Overshot Mill— Horses break down — Town of Almalu — Position — Mountains round it — Description of Almalu — Khan CONTENTS. XIII PAGE 24I Account of Riot at Smyrna — Prejudices of Greeks against Jews— Our Supper — Osmanlis do not make good Cheese — Cheapness of Living at Almalu — Petmez — Koshaff — Tahunn — Yaourt — Pilaff — A Native Dinner — Temperate Diet of the People — The Bazaars of Almalu — Costume — Fine Physique of the People — English and Turkish Crimean Medals — Dress — Descent — Trade of the Place — A Retail Tradesman — Mosque of Omar Pasha — Fine Spring — Change of our Route — Fortunate Escape in Consequence — Brigands attack Leveesi, Makri, and Kalamaki — This Band afterwards broken up — Horse Dealing — Cold and Rain — Mount Massicytus (Ak Dagh) — Deserted Village of Tchobansa — Alarm of our Muleteer — Description of the Countty — Yaila on the Mountains — Kiziljah Dagh — Rahat Dagh — Douroular — Yalinli, Deserted Village — Curious Ancient Gateway and Polygonal Masonry — Heavy Thunderstorm — Lake Caralis — Souood Gol — Village of Souood — The Stranger's Room — Heavy Rainfall — Severity of the Climate in Winter — Keep for the Cattle in Winter — Drainage of the Lake — Fever

Chapter XIV

District of Igneous Rock to West of Lake Caralis — Rich Pasturage — Baindir — The Caularis Amnis of Livy — Pastoral Beauty of this District — Heavy Rain — Plain in Front of Horzoom — Immense Expanse of Wheat — The River Dollomon — Position of Horzoom — The Stranger's Room — Our Host — The Mudir of Horzoom — Opinion of our Host about our Journey — His Domestic Arrangements — Polygamy — We Sup with our Host "alia Turca " — Visit to the Ruins of Cibyra — Poor Salary of the Mudir — Position of Cibyra — Stadium — Theatre Odeum — Ancient Sculptures and Money found there — The Villagers had used up the Inscribed Stones — A Statue broken up by them in hope of finding Money inside it — Strabo's Notice of Cibyra — The Tetrapolis — Military Strength of Cibyra — Its Kings— The Language of its People— Its Chief Industry— Polybius' Account of the King Moagetes and the Roman Consul Manlius — Trade of Cibyra — Ancient Coin— Igneous District to North of Cibyra— Yussuftcha — Plain of Karajuk— Violent Storm — Difficulty of Advancing Halt at Bedrebey — Miserable Condition of Villagers — Beautiful Evening — Seasonable Rains — Heavy Taxation of Villagers Tobacco Regie at Constantinople — Women CONTENTS.

XIV PAGE Unveiled — Bad Accommodation — Hadji Payam — Evgarrah — The Domou Pass over Boz Dagh — Armed Zeybeks — Grace and Agility of our Guide — His Sandals — Village of Kilidja — ■ Sebastopolis— Descent to Uzoumbounar — Varieties of Marble and Lava — Reception by the Villagers — Difficulties of Travel in Anatolia — Its Advantages 259

Chapter XV

Plain of Dawas — Head-waters of the Harpasus — Springs in the River-bed — Return to the Tcham Beli Pass — The armed Cafejis escort us through the Forest — Attack by Brigands on the Servants of a French Merchant — Sheikh's Tomb at foot of the Pass — Extreme Beauty of this Spot — Continued Descent from the Highlands — Change in the Season and in the appearance of the Country — Harvest — Aphrodisias— Descent into the Mosynus Valley — Long Ascent to Kara Soo— Heat in the Valley of the Mosynus — The Cafe at Ali Aga Tchiftlik — Exhausted appearance of the People — Site of Antiocheia ad Mæandrum — Change in the Springs owing to advance of Summer — Ancient Wells — Vultures — Wooden Bridge over the Mæander — Tchingannis (Gipsies), the only People who importuned us for "Bucksheesh" — Turks superior to Arabs in this respect — Cafe at Nazli — Mocha Coffee — Use of Coffee among the Turks — Carelessness of Peasants as to their way of Living — Their wretched Dwellings — Reason — Lack of Gardens and Vegetables in the Interior — Neglect of Domestic Matters — Decadence of these Countries — Their Flourishing State in former Ages — Population — Art— Luxury — Testimony of Livy on this point — A Change for the better may be expected — Unpleasant Ride from Nazli to Aidin — Heat— Camels — Arum Dracunculus — Fertility of Mæander Valley — Might be much increased — Torrent Beds Kiouschk— Heat of Aidin — Khan — Antiquities at Aidin Departure for Smyrna — Illness of our Interpreter — Brigandage in this District— Greek and Zeybek— Malaria in the Plain of Ephesus— Tourbali (Metropolis) — Heat of Smyrna — Garden of Cafe— Italian Theatre— Hotel Muller — Excavations at Pergamus 2g2

Chapter XVI

Difficulties of Travel in Anatolia as compared with Syria Dracomans— Supplies— Tent Life— Climate— Malaria— Malarious CONTENTS.

XV PAGE Districts — Lycaonia — Beauty of the Country — Mountains — Antiquities — Sporting— Game — The Tiger — Lion — Panther — Anecdote of a Panther — Forest — The Woodless District — Destruction of Forests — Causes — Carelessness of Government and People — Brigandage — Present State of Country — Govern ment tries to maintain Order — Diary of Mr. Colnaghi in Lycia in 1854 — Excesses caused by Want and Desperation of Peasantry — Our own Experience — Lefteri, the Brigand of Bithynia — Feeling of People towards Europeans — Sentiments of Turks of higher Rank — Change since Crimean War — Resources of Empire can only be developed by European Help — Turkish Distrust of Europeans — Anecdote of Abbas Pasha, Viceroy of Egypt — Treatment of Orientals by Euro peans often Unjust — Canal of Suez — Jealousy of European Employes — Corruption of the Administrations — Publicity stifled — No Public Opinion — Want of Education among the Turks — Education among other Races of the Empire- Ottoman Patriotism — Rayah Patriotism — Discordant Popula tions of the Empire — The Ruling Race— Gradual Rise of the Christian Populations — Comparison of Osmanli with European — His good Qualities — Often deteriorated by contact with Europeans — Disadvantages of Agricultural Population — Heavy Military Expenditure — Provinces sacrificed to Con stantinople — Want of Labour and Capital— European Im provements a doubtful Benefit to People without a Reform of Government — Apparently Defenceless State of Constantinople — Fleet — Comparison of Turkey with Russia — Conquest of Turkey by Russia dangerous to Europe — Concessions made to Russia — What is the greatest danger to Ottoman Empire — Population of Turkey — Polygamy — Plague — Cholera — Causes of Decline in Population — Decline in some Districts undoubted ; but in others doubtful 299

Chapter XVII

Old System of Provincial Government— Its Abuses and Advantages — The Vilayet System— Provincial Medjlis— Representation Provincial Government good in Theory — Purchase of Offices — Reason why Public Works are so Expensive in Turkey- Instance — Degrees of Offices in Provinces — The Kadis — Their Authority Declining — Taxation of the Empire — Taxes on Land— The Dime— Farmers of this Tax— The Vergui— Mortgages on Land in Turkey— The Kharaj— The Bedeliyeh Conscription — Exemption of Christians from Serving in the CONTENTS. XVI PAGE Army — Professional Money-lenders — Their Dishonesty- Government Agricultural Banks— Their Failure— Difficulties of Agriculture in Turkey— Impartiality of the Government in Matters of Religion— Religious Bigotry generally Diminish ing—Syria and Ibrahim Pasha — Conversion of Mohammedans not to be Lightly Expected— Difficulties in the way of it- Different Religious Ideas of Muslim and Christian — Simplicity of El Islam— Its Inferiority to Christianity- Superstitions Engrafted on Mohammedanism — Muslim has generally come in contact with a less pure form of Christianity — Morals of Europeans — Growing Tolerance of Muslemin — Education of their Children — American Schools in Egypt — Prospects of the Conversion of Mohammedans to Christianity ■ 323

Appendix

. A. — Mithridatic War and Massacre of Romans in Asia Minor . 347 B. — History of Aphrodisias 348 C. — March of the Consul Manlius against the Gaulish Tribes of Asia Minor 349 D. — The Lycian Confederation 352 E. — Cilician Piracy and its suppression by the Romans . . . 353 F. — Ottoman Law — and the sources whence it was derived . . 356 G. — The Pastoral Races of Asia Minor 358 H. — Locusts in some Provinces of the Ottoman Empire . . 359 I. — The Mountain System of Lycia . . . . . 361 K. — The Famine of 1874 in Asia Minor 364 Routes • 370 Time Table 371 General Route CONTENTS. XVII LIST OF MAPS, PLANS, AND HELIOTYPE, LITHO- GRAPHIC, AND WOODCUT ILLUSTRATIONS. General Map and Detailed Map of the Author's Journf.y Facing the Title Page. PAGE Distant View of the Bay and City of Smyrna . . . .10 Caravan Bridge and Part of the Great Cemetery, Smyrna . . 17 View from the Castle Hill, Aiasolouk, showing the Excavations on the Site of the Temple of Diana.

Prion and Coressus in the distance 29 The Mosque of Sultan Selim, Aiasolouk, from the East, and the Plain of the Cayster. . . . . . . . . 30 Plan of Ephesus 32 Laodicea— Remains of the Gymnasium, of the Stadium, and the Petrified Aqueducts on the right 37 Laodicea — General View over the Stadium . . . . -39 The Castle and Mosque of Aiasolouk, from the Stadium of Ephesus. Mount Gallesion in the distance . . . . . 41 Specimen of the Section of Chalk Cliffs in the Valley of the Mosynus .......... 70 Sections of the Ascent from the bed of the Mosynus to the Town of Kara Soo, and of the Grassy Slopes or Terraces in the Mosynus Valley . . . . . . . . . 72 The Temple of A'enus at Aphrodisias (Geera) . . . .74 Hierapolis — General View 97 Hierapolis in Phrygia and the Petrified Cascade . . . -99 Distant View of the Cascade, Hierapolis . . . . . . 100 100 Water Vessels (large) made of a section of Pine Tree . . . 101 Ruins of a large Christian Church, Hierapolis . . . . . 103 The Theatre at Hierapolis 106 View from the Theatre, Hierapolis, looking S.W. . . . 107 Supposed site of the Plutonium, Hierapolis 108 Hierapolis — The Thermæ . .110 The Theatre at Hierapolis, 346 feet in diameter . . . . 115 Style of Tombstones at Colossæ 115 Cairn or Barrow at Colossæ .116 Sarcophagus at Eski Yerrah, near Buldour 144 Sagalassus ........... 158 Rock Tomb Inscription at Sagalassus l6r CONTENTS.

XVIII pagh Specimen of Hexagonal Columns and Plinths at Sagalassus. . 165 Curious Architectural Stone at Sagalassus ... • ■ 165 Stones of the Arches of the Ruined Theatre at Sagalassus . . 167 Ornaments on many of the Pedestals, Sagalassus . . . . 169 Rock with round projecting Buttresses in the Assarkeui Ravine . 178 Plan of Kremna 183 Diagram of the bearings of the Ranges of Mountains seen from the Plateau of Kremna . . . . . . . . . 186 Gateway of Kremna 192 Ploughs, and Cart-wheel of Solid Wood and an Iron Tire at Boujak . 196 Gulelook Dagh, the ancient Termessus 201 Marbles in the Gate of the Port of Adalia 215 Sarcophagus at Ariassus .223 Ancient Gateway in the Village of Yalinli ..... 225 Greek Shields carved upon the Sarcophagi at Sagalassus . . 227 Spring with pointed Recesses, Termessus ..... 228 Theatre at Termessus, 208 feet in diameter . . . . . 231 Theatre of Cibyra— diameter 266 feet 272 The Stadium of Cibyra 273 FAC-SIMILES OF ANCIENT INSCRIPTIONS, c&c ANATOLICA.

Chapter I

On board the Austrian Lloyd's Steamer — Deck Passengers — Negro Slaves — Slavery in Egypt — The Sporades — Want of Wood- Sponge Fishery — Leros — Samos — Scio — Mastic — The Gulf of Smyrna — Sanjak Kalesy — Distant View of Smyrna — Fortress on Mount Pagus — Interior of the City — Its Climate and Health- Heat — The Imbat — Land Breeze — Position of Smyrna — Water Supply — Octroi — Exports — Figs and Raisins — Cemetery at Caravan Bridge — The Meles — Diana's Bath — Bournabat — Its Gardens — Sunset in the Plain — Boujah — Camellias at Bournabat — A Greek Dragoman. On the 16th of April, 1872, I left Alexandria for Smyrna, by the Austrian Lloyd's steamer Trebi sonda. The ship was croAvded, so that I had some difficulty in obtaining a berth. The annual emigration of Europeans from Egypt had begun ; for when once the cotton season is past, little business remains to be transacted, save an occasional purchase of the Khedive's sugar, or speculations in the Egyptian funds, and every one who is able to leave, passes the summer in the cooler and healthier climate of Europe.

ANATOLICA. 2 Most of the passengers Avere Greeks, bound either to the islands or to Constantinople ; there were a feAv Russians, but I was the only English passenger. The scene on board was amusing : a mountain of baggage, of the most nondescript character, cumbered the deck ; over and around this, surged a A-ociferating, gesticulating, strug gling crowd — Greek, Turk, Persian, Circassian, Armenian, Jew, Syrian, Arab, Maltese, &c. In order to spare expense, the Orientals are usually deck passengers, and a portion of the deck is ahvays arranged for their accommodation. Some of the more fortunate had already secured snug corners, Avhere on outspread carpets and " lahafs " they calmly squatted, discussing the eternal coffee and tchibouque, or amicably feeding in small family parties, from copper bowls full of salad, black olives, sardines, salt cheese, yaourt, &c. From all I have ever heard, the beauty of Eastern ladies, even of the highest rank, is not transcendent ; but had the native ladies who were passengers on board the Trebisonda been beauti ful as " houris," they could not have veiled their charms more carefully from the profane gaze.