Sketches in Spain during the years 1829, 30, 31, & 32; containing notices of some districts very little known; of the manners of the people, government, recent changes, commerce, fine arts, and natural history. By Captain S. S [or rather, S. E.] Cook

Introduction

. These sketches are a summary or digest of observations made during a residence of nearly three years in Spain, with the exception of a few weeks during the heats. Some of the various subjects were originally objects of enquiry, and others offered themselves as acquaintance with the country gave increased facilities of examination. There will be found descriptive tours in various parts, some of which are very little known even to the natives, and have never been noticed by the travellers who have given accounts ofthe country, and have generally followed pretty nearly the same track with each other. An analysis of the mode of governing, which is very little known out of Spain, and the strange composition of different branches of the government. The military and civil branches of administration, the clergy and monks, and ecclesiastical establishment, and revenues. The manners of the people. The robbers, and system pursued by that race of people. The commerce and revenue, with an ac-

INTRODUCTION.

. count of some curious manners of raising the revenue, closely connected with the modes used in the East. An account of the marbles, wines, horses, and mines, in their economical point of view. There is a descriptive sketch of the rise, "progress, decay, and revival of the architecture, with notices of the best ar chitects. The sculpture is arranged, and an historical account given of its progress, from the earliest time up to the present, with notices ofthe sites where the best works of each author are to be found. A similar notice of the painters, on the same plan, giving a complete sketch of all the schools in both branches, in which scarcely a good member of either is wanting. The last division of the work treats of natural history. In it will be found, an account of the forests of Spain, including the Pyrenees, and a notice of the natural tree vegetation throughout the country, with their zones or degrees of elevation, and some species either new or very little known.

A short summary of the ornithology, and a notice of the species which came under notice, of which there is none to be met with. The conclusion is a general view ofthe geological structure of the greater part of Spain, a great deal of which is new, or only imperfectly known. The chap ters on forests and geology have illustrative plans to facilitate their explanation. These subjects are treated distinctly, so as to condense and bring them separately under the view of the reader.

INTRODUCTION.

. IX without travelling backwards and forwards, unconnectedly, as he must have otherwise done. For example, at Gra nada, there is General Description, Architecture, Painting, Sculpture, Geology, and some other miscellaneous information. In treating these subjects seriatim, they would Le mixed up with similar articles in several other places, and the whole made less intelligible than by the present plan. The utmost care has been taken to condense and concen trate ; otherwise, it is clear, the work would have been very much extended, which it has been the object to avoid. It need not be remarked to any one who has sought for information respecting this country, how complete a blank it is in most of the branches treated of. This reason only has induced the offering these notices, which may, it is to be hoped, guide the enquiries of those who seek for it, until better or more ample descriptions are found; the work being exactly as it is named, and not at all intended as general essays or regular disquisitions.

The author has been guided in his enquiries solely by native authorities, either in written documents or in oral information, which may be obtained in considerable quantity by those who take time to acquire the language and live with the people, who are the most communicative and intelligent in the world, when once acquainted with them, and the most disposed to forward the views of those who may seek for information, of any of the nations of Europe who have successively passed under his observation. The obligations conferred in this manner, and in a series

INTRODUCTION.

. X ofthe greatest kindness in the power of a humane and most polished people to pay to a stranger who had no other claim on them than the judging impartially on the subjects relating to the country, are more than he can repay, and must for ever claim his warmest gratitude. It is needless to observe that the inaccuracies of the state ments in circulation respecting this country are very great. The more amusing and best written of the books, published of late, swarm in errors, as to their facts, although suffi ciently pleasing in the manner of writing. The French and we are equally to blame in this, and it is to be the more regretted as both countries have had very extensive dealings with Spain. Every article is written absolutely as the subject pre sented itself to the writer. Not a piece of sculpture, painting, or any other is mentioned but what has been exa mined, unless where otherwise stated, or, as in some places, it was necessary to fill up blanks, or round the information.

These cases are rare, and are always stated ; the author being responsible for all the errors contained in the work. A number of these subjects may be thought foreign to the professional habits of a naval officer. To this it is only necessary to observe, that every one is master of his own time, and of the leisure so plentifully afforded in these times to those who are without interest. The greater part of the writer's life has been passed in the countries where some of these subjects only can be studied, and his ac-

INTRODUCTION.

. XI quaintance with the country in question dates from his earliest youth, when the language and manners of the country became familiar to him. In other respects, had there been the means, the longest chapter in the book would have been devoted to professional subjects. That is no longer possible : these days have seen the annihilation of the mighty engine which once threatened the world, and many of the actors in these catastrophes are living. There are no longer materials for writing on the majestic navy of Spain, which has followed the fate of so many of her machines of power and greatness. Besides the persons enumerated in the work, and a vast number of others in Spain, the author has to express his acknowledgments to Mr. Lindley, secretary to the Horticul tural Society, for the names of some oaks ; and to Mr. Lonsdale, secretary to the Geological Society, for those of some fossils with which he was unacquainted.

It is need less to observe, that there is nothing invidious meant in the comparison between the countries occasionally mentioned ; those of France and England were selected as the most advanced, in order to show their relative situation with a country so unfortunate as to government, and the circumstances of late years, as Spain has been. Every individual mentioned or alluded to, is so merely in his public capacity, and as belonging, in some degree, to history; as are alt the transactions referred to. The delay in publication of these sketches, has enabled that part relating to the recent changes to be brought up

INTRODUCTION.

. XII to a comparatively recent period. The government which is depicted as ruling at the time these observations were made, cannot be admired by any Englishman ; but it is due to justice to say, that the author had no personal ground of complaint against them.. In all his dealings with them, they behaved as became the head of a great and polished people. The mutual obligations of protection on the one hand, and of respect and obedience to the laws and customs of the country on the other, being reciprocally performed, they parted in peace. The only alteration made, in consequence of tbe delay of publication, besides the notes on recent changes, is the substitution in a few places of was for is, to denote the alterations consequent on the fall of the ministry of Calomarde. It might otherwise have appeared to those unacquainted with the country, that several objectionable parts of that time still existed.

In examining the details of society and government in this singular country, the reader has to bear in mind that there is no inconsiderable mass of contradictions; of ano malies and paradoxes ; of intelligence on the part of the people, with stupidity on that of the governors ; of freedom and of slavery ; of rudeness bordering on savage life, with the highest civilization. The jarring operation of these causes and combinations give the interest to this country which most people feel, but none can truly appreciate without having witnessed them. The inestimable advantage of the varied pursuits of which these sketches are the outline, was to show the people, as under no other circumstances they

INTRODUCTION.

. XIII could have been seen to the same degree ; from high to low, through every rank and class of society. It is need less to remark the advantage of varying the studies in a country like this, where every portion has its share of in terest, and the most wild and dreary regions furnish their quota of information or amusement. The history of the transactions of the French in Spain, of course, alludes to times past, and not to the present. It would be impossible to form any idea of the true state and prospects of the Peninsula, without touching on them. It would be uncandid not to state that the most of these deal ings are not the subject of his admiration. They are how ever past, it is to be hoped, for ever, and his individual sentiments are, that the peace of Europe, and the gradual amelioration of the governments in the western part of it, are inseparably connected with the maintenance of the good understanding at present existing between France and England.

So far from its reflecting on the present order of things in France, his conviction is, that the last invasion of Spain is one of many other acts, which lessen the regret every one would naturally feel for the fall of the elder branch of the Bourbons, whose followers, were a restoration prac ticable, would, at no distant period, infallibly cause a similar catastrophe to recur. CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter I

From Madrid to Cordova, Granada, Malaga and Seville. Journey to Cordova. — Description of the Mosque now the Cathedral. — The alerce, or wood which formed the roof. — Ecija. — Journey from Ecija to Granada, byLoxa. — General view of the situation of Granada. — Cathedral, churches, aud other buildings. — To Malaga. — Alhama. — Velez Malaga. — Description of Malaga. — The Cemetery. — Journey to Ronda. — Coin and La Junquera. — Description of Ronda. — The old and new towns. — Serrania de Ronda. — Journey to Seville. — Zahara. — Puerto Serrano. — Coronil. — Utrera and Seville.

Chapter II

Madrid to Granada, by Murcia, Almeria, and the Alpujarras. Journey from Madrid to S. Felipe de Xativa. — From Xativa to Alicante. — Alcoy. — Timidity ofthe guide. — Alicante. — To Torre Vieja. — Scene of the Earthquake. — Manners of the people. — Salt Lagune. — To Murcia. — City and environs. — To Cartagena. — Fortress. — Governor. — Climate and other particulars. — To Almazarron. — Alum mine. — To Aguilas. — To Vera. — Almanzora. — Macael. — Purchena. — Marble quarries of Macael. — To Almeria by Atal and Tabernas. — Description of Almeria. — The Governor and Police. — To Adra. — The Sierra de Gador. — Miners and mode of living on the mountain. — From Adra to Granada, by Lanjaron. — Monk of the Alpujarras. — The Inundation. — Orgiva. — Lanjaron. — Country on the road to Granada. — Suspido and Moro.— Arrive at Grenada.

CHAPTER HI. Sierra de Segura. From Granada to the Sierra de Segura, by Guadix. — Baza. — Route from Baza to Pozo de Alcon. — View from that place. — Guides, — Forest of CONTENTS. the Sierra de Segura.— Bevoriach.— Fuente de Segura— To Orcera. —Descent to the Guadalimar.— Arrive at Orcera.— The authorities. Military Commandant.-Alcalde.-Naval Offlcers.-Escribano.— V eas. -The Biscayan.-Lomo de Ubeda.-Torre de Ubeda, and Baeza.- Linares.-Lead arid Copper mines.— To Jaen.-Description of Jaen. —Journey to Granada.— Journey to Motril and Malaga. -The Sugar and other plantations. — Almunecar. — Velez Malaga.

Chapter IV

By the north coast from Bilbao to Gyon and Oviedo, Leon, Valladolid and Burgos. From Bilbao to Santander.— Trade.— Bay.— Montana de Santander.— Journey to Gijon.— Description of the country.— Situation and views from Gijon.— Commerce.— Journey to the Coal mines.— To Oviedo. —Cathedral and city.— Journey to Leon.— Puerto de Pajares.— Muleteers.— Fish Diligence.— Leon.— Cathedral and City.— From Leon to Benevente.— Description ofthe Castle.— The country from Leon to Valladolid.— Description of Valladolid.— Fuen Saldafia.— Burgos.— Valladolid to Madrid. — Convent of La Mejorada.

Chapter V

From Madrid to Cuenca and Guadalaxara by the Alcarria. Journey through Arganda, Villarejo, and F*uente Dueiia del Tajo to Tarancon. — Tarancon to Cuenca. — Description of that City. — The Cathedral. — The Fuentes del Re. — Priego. — Adventure in the posada. — Description of the place and country. — To Guadalaxara. — Cross the Guadiela. — Sacedon. — The posada and gypsies. — Country to Tendilla. — To Guadalaxara. — Palace ofthe Duke del Infantado. — Pantheon at St. Francisco. — Ancient Bridge. — Alcala de Henares. — Return to Madrid.

Chapter VI

Malaga to Zaragoza and Pamplona, Northern or Free Provinces. From Madrid by Guadalaxara to Zarogoza. — Puerta de S. Engracia. — The Siege. — The Cathedrals. — City. — Inhabitants. — Moorish peasantry of the environs. — To Pamplona, by the Canal. — Canal boat and company. — Tudela. — Pamplona. — Feast of St. Firmin. — Accommodation. — Bull-fights. — The Cathedral. — Border foray. — Fortress of Pamplona. — Journey to Vittoria. — Town and Plaza. — The Free Provinces. — Government, laws, and customs. — Habits and character of the people. — The Fueros or Privileges.— Bilbao.— The Franciscan Convent.— St; CONTENTS. XVII Sebastian.— Trade.— Siege and burning of the City in 1813.— Character of the people. — Port of Passages. — Jesuit's College.

Chapter VII

Seville and Cadiz ; Estremadura, Toledo, Valencia, and Catalonia. Description of building and mode of living at Seville. — Arrangement of the houses. — Promenades. — Convents. — Pictures. — Cathedral. — The Alcazar.— The Triana, or suburb of Seville. — The holy week. — The navigation. — The Sierra Morena. — Cadiz. — Trade. — Towns on the Bay. — General decay. — Women of Cadiz. Road to Badajos. — Convoy of waggons. — Description ofthe City of Badajos. — To Merida. — Roman remains. — Country in the neighbourhood. — Merida to Madrid. — Puerto de Miravete. — Puerta de Almaraz. — Talavera de la Reyna. — Madrid. Toledo. — Situation of the City. — Streets and buildings. — Cathedral and churches. — Sculptors and Painters. — House of Padilla. — To Valencia by Almanza. — City. — Streets. — Churches. — Painters. — Trade and manufactures. — Public schools and Academy. — To Murviedro. — Route to Barcelona. — The inhabitants. — Archives of Aragon. — Excursion to Manresa and Cardona. — Fort. — Monserrat. — Manufactures of Catalonia. — Gerona.

Chapter VIII

Madrid. Natural situation of Madrid — The Nobility. — Part they took in the Constitution. — The great orders of Knighthood. — Industry. — Supply of necessaries. — Character of the people. — Situation of strangers. — Museum.— Schools of Painting. — The Restorers. — Sculpture. — Monument to Daoiz and Velarde. — The Academy. — Collection of Paintings. —The Engravers. — Printing. — Royal Library. — Armoury.— Museum of Natural History. — Miscellaneous observations. — Improvements.— Morals.— Theatres.— Amusements. — The Sitios.

Chapter IX

Bull Fights. The rearing bulls. — The breeds in Spain. — The activity and qualities of the Bulls. — The Tauromacbia.— Difference of the ancient and modern mode of these spectacles. CONTENTS

Chapter X

Government. Source of the abuses.— Independent character of the people, and their indisposition to obey.— Relaxed state of subordination in the Provinces. Mode of governing by dividing and creating equal authorities.— The power of constituted authorities.— The Corregidores and Alcaldes.— Escribanos.— Indifference of the late King as to birth in the people employed under Government. — The Police ; its recent introduction ; compared with the Inquisition. — The Subdelegado of Xeres. — Committee of Priests at Puycerda.— Introduction of the Police System in Aragon. — Effects of the Police on strangers.— Mode of signing the passports. — Chiefs of Inspection. — Anecdote of a Lady in Andalusia. The Roads. — New Roads recently made in different parts of the Kingdom. — New mode of effecting improvements. — The Presidiarios. — Modes of opening the Roads by the Administration of Diligences. — Contrasts ofthe manner of conducting these vehicles with that in France. — The Escort. — Journey from Andalusia. — The Galeras.

Law. — Abuses and Corruption of the Courts. — Their independence of the Government. — Delays. — Slowness of proceedings in criminal cases. — The Lawyers. — Difficulty of reform in the Law. Medical Science. — Mode of payment of Doctors. — Anecdote of one of the old school. — Tbe Oculist of Malaga. — Empirics and Royal Decrees. — Public Colleges and Schools. — Students.

Chapter XI

Clergy. Exaggerated ideas respecting the number of the Clergy. — Their revenues and situation in society. — The classification of the body. — Mode of managing the power of the church. — Their private lives. — The seeling in society towards them. — Indisposition of the people to confession Liberality in admitting strangers to the churches.— Occasional tolerance to those of a different communion. — Solemnity of the worship. Contrast with that of Naples— Mode of performing the service in the cathedral and other churches, contrasted with that in England. The Dean and travelling party.— Padre Cyril.— The parochial Clergy.— Story in Aragon.— Modifications of rule in the governing of the church. The monks; Feeling of society towards them. — Situation ofthe convents. —The higher orders.— The mendicants —Charity of the capuchins.— Dislike to the monks on account of the property of the Convents.— CONTENTS. XIX Impunity in crimes of the monks.— Revenues of the Church. — The contribution to Government. — Tithes.

Chapter XII

Army, Captain General. Composition of the Army. — Want of Officers. — Realistas. — The War of Independence. — Natural defence of Spain. — The Artillery and other scientific members.— Captains General. — Their situation with respect to the Government. — Custom of sitting President of the Audiencia. — The dictatorial power exercised at Seville. — Movements on the frontiers. — Transactions in Andalusia. — Assassination of the Governor of Cadiz. — Capture of troops at Vejer. — Mixture of the functions of Police and Military. — History and Capture of Torrijos. — Execution at Malaga. — Mode of transacting the business with the Government at Madrid.

Chapter XIII

Manners of the People. Severity of judgments on the Spaniards. — The Domestic Manners of Spain. — Style of Manners. — Mode of bringing up the Women. — Ancient custom in Italy. — Deportment of the Sexes. — Chivalric Manners. — Voices. — Local attachments. — Strong habits of ancient standing. — Fanaticism and Bigotry. — Equality of Manners. — F'eelings towards the nobles. — The Paseos. — Costume. — Mania for Foreign Fashions. — Individual at Madrid. — The Garrote. — Manners and Characters of the Provincials. — Conversational Powers. — Provincial Nobility. — Independent tone of Society.— Conclusion.

Chapter XIV

elatirms of France and Spain. Historical Sketches up to the present time. — Invasion of 1823. — Consequences to both countries. — Fall of the Bourbons caused by the war in Spain. — Recent Changes and view of Present Prospects in Spain.— Discussion of Succession, and that of Portugal.

Chapter I

From Madrid to Cordova, Granada, Malaga, Ronda, and Seville. I entered Spain by Bayonne, in October, 1829; and after examining the capital, the sitios, or royal residences, and other objects in the neighbourhood, set out for Cordova by the diligence. We took up a part of the escort outside of Madrid, these people not being allowed to enter the gates ; and as we crossed La Mancha, the number was increased by horsemen, until it presented a formidable appearance. Amongst the equestrians, who carried each two carabines, a sabre, pistols and other arms, rode the famous Polynario, who, like most of the others, was a reclaimed bandit. The portion of them who sat on the roof had spare muskets, ranged and pointed in such a manner, that any traveller looking out of the windows would, in case of their going off accidentally, have been placed in imminent danger.

At Andujar, whilst the other passengers were retiring to avail themselves of the short period allotted to repose in these vehicles, I strolled out to enjoy the first delicious night of Andalusia. On returning, I found all the guards spread and snoring in the patio, into which the rooi^s i i. opened in the oriental manner, each with his whole assort ment of arms about his person, ready for the early s ar of morning. Their Salvator-like figures (they were splendid men), with the bright moonlight, had a striking and picturesque effect. No place, even in this country, where there are so many memorials of the decay of ancient grandeur, is more calculated to dissipate any favourable anticipation than the celebrated city of Cordova. The streets are narrow and ill paved, convents in great numbers, the beggars in still increasing ratio.

Besides innumerable stragglers, a flying detachment, of about fifty, moved from place to place, as it suited their basking in the sun, or supplies were expected. The only remains of industry and art for which the city was so celebrated in the time of the Moors, are the trades of silversmiths and leather-dressers; vast numbers of boots and shoes are sent to the capital. The inn was wretched, and there was no cafe or place of amusement of any kind. The realistas, or royalist volunteers, a corps got up in op position to the constitutional or national guards, and gene rally composed of the lowest rabble, were in great force in this place, which is celebrated for its adherence to the doctrines of pure royalism, and has a superabundance of the class which is generally enrolled in that body. The cathedral * has been so often described, that a detail of it is unnecessary ; even in its altered state, it is undoubtedly the greatest architectural curiosity in Europe; the effect on entering, the intersections of twenty-nine rows of columns, wilh nineteen others, the dim light just sufficient to shadow the distances, the strange effect of these colonnades over an extent of 600 feet by 400, and with the height of only 30, cannot be described, and stands unequalled.

In the * For the paintings in the cathetiral, &c. see School of Cordova. time of the Mahometans, it must have. been prodigiously greater; the entrance to the patio, or enclosure which is in front, was not in the centre, as described in the books, but considerably on one side, no doubt to give greater effect to the dark wood of columns which presented itself to the spectator on crossing the holy threshold. The original gateway, with its brazen gates, remains, although crowned by a noble but misplaced tower and belfry. The interco lumniations on the outside are filled up, and converted into chapels; instead of the flat and uniform roof which over spread it, and increased the effect by its dark colour, the colonnades are now surmounted by whitewashed bove das, or arches, which contribute only to show the defects of the proportions which the darkness before concealed.

Many lanterns and cupolas have been opened throughout, and add still more to the departure from the views of the Moorish architects; these evils are however trifling, and might be easily remedied; the fatal error was the building the choir which occupies thecentre. This is a Gothic church, reared amidst the forest of columns, to serve as a place for the Cabildo to celebrate their ceremonies. In its original state certainly it was not suited to christian worship, much less to the pompous ceremonial ofthe Spanish Church ; but the choir might have been built in the patio where there is ample room, and this extraordinary and wonderful pro duction of the Arabs left untouched to serve as cloisters or ad juncts. During the alteration of the building, which did not take place until some centuries after the conquest, a dispute arose between the authorities ; the Ayuntamiento, or corporation of the city, denying the right ofthe Cabildo, or chapter, to make such arrangements.

It was referred when too late to Charles the Fifth, who was unfortunately absent in some other part of his dominions ; and before his answer was obtained, which conveyed a severe censure to the ! * '1 SKETCHES IN SPAIN. parties, the mischief was done. Otherwise the admirer of Moorish antiquity would not have had to deplore the injury done to one of its most curious specimens. W ith the assistance of a workman, I ascended thereof, and found apart of the original woodwork, most of which has been replaced by pine, in consequence of decay from the penetrating of the water through the tiles, which are laid too horizontally. The under part, which was seen from themosqueand formed the ceiling, was unpainted, the side of each plank being slightly carved on the edges, and it has now the colour of old oak or chestnut.

This is the alerce of the old writers, which has hitherto baffled inquiry as to the tree which produced it ; it is resinous and fine grained, quite unlike the various pines which I subsequently found formed the wood work of the Alhambra, the Alcazar of Seville, and other Moorish works, or that of any pine I am acquainted with. There are traditions of its growing in the neighbourhood, but no tree answering the description is to be heard of; nor have I found it in any botanical work. The decisive proof of its not being an indigenous tree, is its not being mentioned in the curious book of Arab agriculture, written by a Moor of Seville, in the 12th century, and trans lated by Banqueri. He dedicates a large portion of his book to the enumeration of trees and shrubs, describing their qualities, modes of culture, even to transplanting large trees, and knew as well as the professors of the present day ihe mode of effecting it, the consequences of moving trees from bad to good soil, or the reverse; that some sorts bore the meddling with their roots better than others, and most olher arcana of the art, which are believed to be modern discoveries.

He names various sorts of pines, but never mentions or alludes to the alerce, which it is certain he must have known had it been indigenous or even cultivated. The subject is well worth inquiry, as few woods are known capable os resisting, as this has done, the effects of a period of nine centuries; the specimen I speak of being perfectly uninjured.* The roof is composed of a number of parallel parts, each about the width of a common house, and sepa rated by gutters of solid lead, and of great weight, cast i n moulds, as the Moors were ignorant ofthe art of rolling metal. It is supposed to have been brought from the mines ofLinares, The tiles are large and very light, being laid alternately over and under; a defective mode still general in Spain, which only imperfectly excludes the water, unless the pitch be very high.

To this construction is owing the destruction of the timber below, and it is the idle excuse for the barbarous innovation of the bovedas. The country around has the bare and uninteresting ap pearance so usual in Spain ; it is, however, improving ; plantations of olives are daily making, and if they persevere, in a few years the whole line of the Guadalquivir will be covered with them. They improve the appearance of the landscape, their produce is extremely valuable, and the corn and pasture land under them is benefited instead of being injured by their shade. A great deal of this planting is owing to an excellent law, or prescriptive custom, by which the inhabitants of places have a right to plant any * Since my return to England I have been shown a communication made to the Horticultural Society by Mr. Drummond, Consul at Tangier, who had been engaged in investigating the species which has received the name of alerce in Spain.

It appears quite clear from his account, that this tree is the Thuya articulata, which grows in the mountains of Barbary, and of which a large plank had been sent from Tangier, and may be seen in Regent-street. It is well worth the attention of those engaged in pro curing timber for the navy and for other purposes requiring durability. I have subsequently made every enquiry and consulted every authority, without finding a trace ofthe existence of this tree in Spain. It is ex tremely probable, that in a work of such sanctity as a mosque, intended to be second only to that of Mecca, wood, known by that ingenious people to be so durable, should be transported from Africa for the purpose. portion ofthe common lands, which then becomes the pro perty of the individual. The immense value of these olive grounds, probably the most productive in Europe, is diminished by the miserable mode of making the oil, owing to a privilege possessed by the lords of manors of grinding at their own mills, which are often inadequate to the purpose.