Travels into Bokhara; being the account of a journey from India to Cabool, Tartary and Persia; also, Narrative of a voyage on the Indus ... in the years 1831, 1832, and 1833

Front matter

Ssc. Ssc. VOL. London : Printed by A. Sfottiswoode, New- Street- Square. BEING THE ACCOUNT OP A JOURNEY FROM INDIA TO CABOOL, TARTARY, AND PERSIA; ALSO, NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE ON THE INDUS, FROM THE SEA TO LAHORE, WITH PRESENTS PROM THE KING OP GREAT BRITAIN J PERFORMED UNDER THE ORDERS OF THE SUPREME GOVERNMENT OF INDIA, IN THE YEARS 1831, 1832, AND 1833. BY LIEUT. ALEXR BURNES, F.R.S. OF THE EAST INDIA COMPANY'S SERVICE; AST POLITICAL RESIDENT IN CUTCH, AND LATE ON A MISSION TO THE COURT OF LAHORE. " Per syrtes iter æstuosas, . . . per inhospitalem Cavcasum, vel qua? loca fabulosus Hor. Lambit Hydaspes." IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. MDCCCXXXIV. CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER XII. JOURNEY IN THE DESERT OF THE TOORKMUNS.

Page Journey to the Oxus. — Sand Hills. — Freezing of the Oxus. — Meanness of native Traders The Oxus. — Oxus of Alexander's Historians. — Charjooee: its Bazar. — The Desert. — Slaves. — The Caravan. — Well of Balghooee. — Dangers of the Desert. — Seerab. — Camel's Milk. — An eastern Caravan. — Oochghooee and wandering Toorkmuns. — Ruins of Castles. — Moorghab. — Remarks on the Desert. — A Toorkmun Camp. — Orgunje Officers. — Precarious Situation .... - 1-34 CHAP. XIII. CONTINUATION OF THE JOURNEY IN THE TOORKMUN DESERT. River of Merve. — Amusements. — Knights and Heroines of Merve. — Alarm. — Toorkmuns : their Laws of Plunder. — Training ofthe Horses. — Reflections. A CONTENTS. VI Page — Meeting of the Caravan. — Claims against us. — Continuation ofthe Desert. — Whirlwinds. — The High Lands of Persia. — Mirage. — Plants of the Desert. — Allamans.— Unsuccessful Party. — Arrival at Shurukhs Detention.— Alarms. — Dissipation of them.— Toorkmun Customs. — Fortitude of a Slave. — Toorkmun Song. — Toorkmun House.— Mode of Feasting. — Success of the Allamans. — Inconve niences. — Mad Camel. — Departure from Shu rukhs. — Increased Caravan. — Entrance into Persia. — Moozderan or Durbund. — Approach to Meshid. — Tarantulla Adventure Ghoozkan Slaves. — Troubled Country .... 35-75 CHAP. XIV.

Chapter I. An Account Of The Kingdom Of Bokhara

Limits and Extent. — Natural and political Divisions. — Physical Geography: Face of the Country Climate A i CONTENTS. VIII Page and Phenomena. - Rivers. - Mountains — Mineral Productions. — Vegetable. — Necessaries of Life. — Fruits and Wines. — Domestic Animals. — Wild Ani mals. — Birds. — Silk Worms. — Diseases: Guinea Worm. — Cities and Towns. — Population of the Kingdom - " " - 153-185 CHAP. II. THE RIVER OXUS, OR AMOO; WITH SOME NOTICE OF THE SEA OF ARAL. Source and Course of the Oxus. — Sea of Aral. — Capabilities of the Oxus. — Depth, Current, and Slope. Inundation. — Freezing. — Craft on the Oxus. — Mode of navigating them. — Wood of the Oxus. — Political and commercial Advantages ofthe River 186-199 CHAP. III. ON THE VALLEY OF THE OXUS, ETC. Sketch of the Countries upon it. — Koondooz. — Budukhshan.— Ruby Mines. — Lapis Lazuli. — Mountain Districts North of Budukhshan. — Their Language — Pamere. — Singular Animal, the Rass. — Chitral Gilgit. — Iskardo. — Their Language. — Kaffirs. — Their Descent from Alexander questioned. — Their Customs .... 200-213 CHAP. IV.

ON THE REPUTED DESCENDANTS OF ALEXANDER THE GREAT. Traditions regarding them. — Actual Condition of these reputed Descendants. — Examination of their Claims. — Conjectures - 214-219 CONTENTS. IX Page CHAP. V. ON THE SOURCES OF THE INDUS. Interest attached to the Subject — Received Opinions. — Their Error. — Description of the Shyook, the great Head ofthe Indus. — The Western Branch. — Country enclosed by both. — Name of Cashgar misapplied. — Errors pointed out ... 220-226 CHAP. VI. NOTICE ON YARKUND, AND ITS INTERCOURSE WITH PEKIN, BOKHARA, AND TIBET. Chinese Province of Yarkund. — Sketch of its History. — Mode of governing it by the Chinese. — Singular Mode of communicating with Pekin. — Inhabitants. — Kalmuks, curious Customs. — Anecdote of the Chinese Police. — Country between Yarkund and Tibet. — Communications with Bokhara. — Notice of Kokan ..... 227-237 CHAP. VII.

ON THE MOUNTAINS OF HINDOO KOOSH. Range so called. — Height. — General Features. — Productions. — Formation of the Rocks. — True Mountain of Hindoo Koosh - - - 238-248 CHAP. VIII. TOORKMANIA, OR THE COUNTRY OF THE TOORKMUNS. Toorkmania : Country so called. — Nature of it and the Toorkmuns. — Origin of the Toorkmuns. — Tribes. CONTENTS. Page — Language. — Account of Merve. — General Cha racteristics of the People of Toorkmania - 249-261 CHAP. IX. ON THE INROADS OF THE TATARS, WITH A NOTICE OF THE TRIBES IN TOORKISTAN. Invasions of the Tatars sketched. — Sources from whence they sprung, investigated. — Exaggerated Numbers. — Probabilities of Success in modern Times. — Only two great tribes, Toorks and Mundshoors. — Appearance of Tatars Physiognomy. — Chaghtye and Uzbeks. — Kalmuks. — Kuzzaks and Kirgizzes. — Citizens of Toorkistan. — Tatar and Magi Religion. — Concluding Observations - - 262-270 CHAP. X. ON THE HORSES OF TOORKISTAN.

Toorkmun Horse. — Tradition of its Lineage. — Mode of Feeding. — Varieties of the Toorkmun Horse. — Extent of the Trade — Great Characteristics of this •loble Animal .... 271-277 CONTENTS. XI

Book II. An Historical Sketch Of The Countries Between India And The Caspian Sea

CHAPTER I THE PUNJAB.

Page Limits of Runjeet Sing's Power. — Its Rise. — State of the Government. — Its Decline. — Influence of the Chiefs. — The People. — Military Strength of the Country. — Revenues and Resources. — Foreign Policy. — General Character of the Government. — Its probable Termination ... . 279-298 CHAP. II. HISTORICAL SKETCH OF EVENTS IN AFGHANISTAN, SINCE THE YEAR 1809. Introductory Remarks. — Shah Shooja deposed. — Elevation of his Brother Mahmood. — Capture of Cashmere. — League with the Seiks. — Loss of Attok. — Rupture with them. — Battle with the Persians. — Seizure of the Vizier. — His cruel Death Fall of Mahmood. — Recal of Shooja. — High-mindedness of his Queen. — Shooja's Escape. — Elevation of his Brother Eyoob. — Loss of Cashmere Great Progress of the Seiks. — Total Dismemberment of the Cabool Monarchy - - - - 299-318 CHAP. III.

CHIEFSHIP OF PESHAWUR. Extent of it.— Military and political Strength. — Political Relations. — Its Chief : his Government. — CONTENTS. XII Page Productions. - Feasible Improvements. - Its Mi nerals. _ Coal, &c- Great Value ofthe Article 319-328 CHAP. IV. CHIEFSHIP OF CABOOL. Its Boundaries. — Character of Dost Mahommed Khan. His Relations. — Cabool : its Supplies - 329-336 CHAP. V. ON THE AFFAIRS OF WESTERN AFGHANISTAN. Chiefs of Candahar and Herat. — Their Government 337-340 CHAP. VI. SUMMARY ON THE AFFAIRS OF CABOOL. Remarks on the Overthrow of the Dynasty. — Improbabilities of its Restoration Relative Power of Cabool and Persia ----- 341-345 CHAP. VII. ON THE POWER OF KOONDOOZ. Extent of the Chiefship. — History of its Chief, Moorad Beg : his Policy and Power. — Revenues and Administration. — His Character - - 346-354 XU1 CONTENTS.

CHAP. VIII. SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BOKHARA. Page Early History. — From the Age of Jengis Khan to that of the Uzbeks — Reign of Nadir Shah. — King Hyder and the present Ruler - - 355-361 CHAP. IX. ON THE POLITICAL AND MILITARY POWER OF BOKHARA. Importance of the Kingdom. — Power and Character of the King, — Koosh Begee, or Vizier. — Supremacy of the Church. — Administration. — Police. — Revenues. — Military Force and Spirit of the Uzbeks. — Detail of the Troops. — Foreign Policy of Bokhara : with China — Cabool — Persia — Turkey. — Connexion with Russia - ... 362-381 CHAP. X. ON THE STATE OF KHIVA, OR ORGUNJE. Limits. — Khiva : its Rise — Power and military Strength. — Predatory Habits of the Khivans. — Affairs of Khiva and Russia - - - 382-388 CHAP. XI. ON THE N.E. FRONTIERS OF PERSIA. — THE KOORDS AND TOORKMUNS. Power of Persia over these Tribes. — Koord and other Chiefs. — Weakness of the Persian Frontier - 389-393 CONTENTS. XIV AND Page •412 ■421 OK

Book III. On The Commerce Of Central Asia

CHAPTER I. ON THE COMMERCIAL RELATIONS OF THE PUNJAB, THE ADVANTAGES OF

OPENING THE INDUS. Favourable Position of the Punjab for Trade. — Extent and Variety of its Productions. — Shawls of Cashmere. — Extent of the Manufacture. — Silks. — Cottons. — Minerals. — Vegetables. — Advantages of opening the Indus to the Punjab Trade. — Effects of it on the Towns of the Indus. — Articles brought into Demand by it. — Cotton. — Chintses. — Jewellery, Cutlery, &c. — Depot for a Water Commerce. — Political Condition of the Country - - 395- CHAP. II. ON THE COMMERCE OF CABOOL. Routes from India on Cabool. — Carriers of the Trade. — Imports. — Disposition of the Cabool Chiefs towards their Extension. — Remarks - - 413 CHAP. III. ON THE COMMERCE AND FOREIGN COMMUNICATIONS BOKHARA AND CENTRAL ASIA. Progress of Commerce between Europe and Asia. Success of the Russians British Indian Trade.

Alteration of the Routes of Commerce. — Nego- CONTENTS. XV Page tiations of Russia. — Exports from India and Russia to Bokhara Prices of Merchandize. — Chintses. — White Goods. — Broad Cloth. — Velvets. — Nankeens. Cochineal. — Indian Goods. — Muslins. — Shawls — Indigo. — Sugar. — Trade with China. — Exports of Bokhara. — Silk. — Cotton. — Wool. — Skins. — Du ties on Trade. — Abuses in the British Custom House. — General Review. — Russian and British Trade compared. — Opening for British Exports - 422-444 CHAP. IV. NOTICE ON THE TRADE OF PERSIA. State of Commerce in Persia. — Routes, and their relative Advantages. — Description of Goods. — Hints for improving the Trade. — Singular Instance of commercial Enterprise related - - 445-454 Observations on. Lieutenant Burnes's Collection of Bactrian and other Coins, by Mr. H. H. Wilson, Sanscrit Professor at Oxford ; and Mr. James Prinsep, F.R.S., Secretary of the Asiatic Society of Bengal - Journey to the Oxus. Sand hills NARRATIVE.

CHAPTER XII. JOURNEY IN THE DESERT OF THE TOORKMUNS.

J\r midday, on the 16th of August, we com menced our march on the Oxus, which was about twenty-seven miles distant. After jour neying for ten miles, we halted in the even ing at a small village, and set out at midnight for the river, under a bright moon. For a great part of the night our route led us among vast fields of soft sand, formed into ridges which exactly resembled, in colour and appearance, those on the verge of the ocean. The belt of these sand-hills, which lie between Bokhara and the Oxus, varies in breadth from twelve to fifteen miles. They were utterly destitute of vegetation. There was a remarkable uniformity in their formation ; the whole of them preserved the shape and form of a horse-shoe, the outer rim presenting itself to the north, the direction from which the winds of this country blow.

On this side the mounds sloped, VOL. II. B while the interior of the figure was invari ably precipitous ; but loose sand will ever take its position from the prevailing winds. None of the hills exceeded the height of fifteen or twenty feet, and they all rested on a hard base. The wind was high, and the particles of sand moved from one mound to another, wheeling in the eddy or interior of the semicircle, and having now and then, particularly under the rays of the sun, much the look of water ; an appearance, I imagine, which has given rise to the opinion of moving sands in a desert. The thermometer, which had risen to 100°, fell at night to 70° among the sand-hills ; and I have always observed that the vicissitudes of cold and heat are greatest among sand. About an hour after the sun had risen, we exchanged this dreary route for verdant fields, irrigated by the Oxus ; and, aster winding among them for about four miles, encamped on the verge of the river, where we hid ourselves from the sun's rays under the panniers of our camels.

We had come down upon the Oxus at Betik, which is opposite to Charjooee, and one of the greatest ferries between Persia and Toorkistan. There was, therefore, every facility for crossing, and the beasts and baggage were thrown into boats, and soon transported to the opposite bank. The farmer of the customs killed his sheep, and a Freezing of the Oxus. CHAP. XII. TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA. invited most of the merchants to partake of his fare. He enquired very particularly regarding us, and requested a sight of our passport. He then waited on us in person with a couple of melons and some cakes, which we sat down and enjoyed along with him and his party on the banks of the river, and, I believe, mutually amused each other. This individual mentioned, in the course of conversation, that the Oxus had been last year frozen over from shore to shore, and that the caravans passed it on the ice.

This is rather an unfrequent occurrence, and gave rise to a grave point of discussion and decision for the Mahommedan doctors. The farmer had agreed to pay 100 tillas a month, as the rent of his ferry ; Jbut since the river was passable on the ice, his boats were useless, and he lost by the farm. He proceeded to Bokhara, and urged his case to the king, requesting at the same time his royal sanction to levy a tax on the travellers. " That is impossible," said his majesty and his advisers, " unless the farmer consents to become answerable for the blood money of any person who may fall through the ice and perish." The learned reply of the king is applauded for its wisdom, and met with the approbation of every person but the farmer himself, who had to pay the full amount of his contract. I will observe, first, fl Meanness of native traders. that, as the contractor is not answerable for the lives of passengers in his boat, he could not be answerable for them on the ice.

Secondly, That, since he contracted with the king for the twelve months, he should either have been re lieved from payment during the time of the freezing of the river, or, at all events, allowed to levy a toll on the passengers. The law, however, is fruitful of interpretation in every country ; and the King of Bokhara, while he protected his treasury from loss, had likewise the credit of appearing solicitous about the lives of the faithful. As we were preparing to embark, I had an example of the meanness of native traders, of which I have had before and since many con curring proofs. Our boat had no horses to drag it across, and it was proposed that we should hire them ; to which I gave a ready assent, saying, that we should be happy to contribute our share of the expense. The reply was unsatis factory, since they wished we should bear it all ; but this was peremptorily refused, and we embarked without 'the horses, though the share of each person would not have amounted to a quarter of a rupee, and one of the merchants possessed goods that were valued at 3000 tillas.

From terror, they were not so sparing of the name of the Deity, while on the water, as, on Tlie Oxus, land, they had been of their money ; but these invocations cost them nothing, and the horses would have reduced their profits. The merchants of this country have none of the liberal notions of the same class of people in Europe j and I am disposed to attribute it to their super intending in person the sale of their goods, and witnessing every outlay which is incurred on their account. We crossed the Oxus in safety, without horses ; and I did not regret the opportunity that had presented itself, to show our fellow-voyagers that we were as poor in our purses as in our dress and condition. One in dividual, a Persian, actually sickened at the thought of crossing the Jihoon without horses, and transferred himself to another boat with oars, where he gave the sailors the bribe of a rupee to row him speedily across.

He arrived, with a pale face, to receive our congratulations on his bravery ; but this individual turned out, in the end, one of our best friends. We found the stream of the Oxus with a breadth of 650 yards, and in some places 25 and 29 feet deep ; so that it was both narrower and deeper than at the point at which we had before crossed it. Its banks were much depressed, and completely overgrown with a rank weed, which chokes the aqueducts. Some fish of an enormous size, weighing from five to six hundred pounds, b Oxus of Alexander's historians. are procured in this river, a kind of dog fish, which are used as food by the Uzbeks. Across the Oxus, we found ourselves about six miles distant from the town of Charjooee, which was in sight. For the first time, this noble river was turned to the purposes of navigation, since there is a commercial communication kept up, by means of it, between that place and Orgunje.

The Oxus is particularly mentioned under that name by the historians of Alexander, though it appears to have been ever unknown by such a title to the Asiatics, who call it Jihoon and Amoo. We learn from the ancient authors, that Alexander approached this river from Bactra, or Balkh, by a country " which exhaled the power of a summer sun, and torrefied the sands." The distance between Bactra and the river is even correctly stated at 400 stadia, and we have no fables regarding the breadth of the river. Arrian, who follows Aristobulus, tells us that the Oxus was six furlongs broad, and in that part of its course we have described it with a magnitude of 828 yards. The very topography of the river's bank may, I almost think, be traced in Curtius ; for there are low and peaked hillocks near that pass of the Oxus; and we are told that Alexander caused fires to be lit on the high ground, '< that the distressed in the rear might perceive they were not far from camp."

There are no hillocks below Kilef. Curtius tells us that the Oxus was a muddy river, that bore much slime along with it ; and I found that one fortieth of the stream is clay suspended in the water. What an approximation to the name of Maricanda in the modern city of Samarcand. It is described as being seventy stadia in circumference ; and we have seen that modern Bokhara exceeds eight English miles, or about sixty-four of the Grecian stadia. What an outline have we not of the character of these nations in remote ages. " They exercised rob bery, and lived by spoil." These are the literal words of the historian; and they explain to us the genuine manners of the people, be they Hun, Scythian, Goth, Tatar, Toork, or Toork mun. Lower down the river, we have the name of the country ruled by Pharsamanes, which is called Chorasmi, and in which the kingdom of Kharasm, subverted by Jengis, is easily re cognised.

Higher up, we have a description of Parætacæ, which was a mountainous region, as we learn from the mention of fir trees, and the formidable " rock of Chorienes." This is the hill country of Karatageen, as we discover from the similarity of its name and position. In Zeriaspes, we have, I think, Shuhr Subz; and I could continue to multiply the coincidences, b s Charjooee its bazar. TRAVELS INTO BOKHARA. CHAP. XII but I doubt if the subject would excite general interest. In the morning we moved up to Charjooee, which in all our maps is erroneously set down on the northern bank of the Oxus. The place is governed by a Kalmuk, and is pleasantly situated on the verge of culture and desolation, with a pretty fort that crowns a hillock, and overlooks the town. It is said to have resisted the arms of Timour ; but its present condition would not impress one with any great notions of its strength, or that conqueror's power.

The people of Charjooee do not exceed 4000 or 5000 souls ; but a great portion of its population wander up and down the Oxus during the hot months. We halted here for four days, since it was the last inhabited spot of civilisation be tween Bokhara and Persia. The market day, or bazar, occurred during our stay ; and I pro ceeded along with Ernuzzar, the Toorkmun, to see the assemblage, in which I passed quite un noticed. I sauntered through the bazar, much more amused with the people than the wares they were selling, which were in every respect poor. There were knives, saddles and bridles, cloth, and horsecloths, of native manufacture : but the only articles of European fabric were a few beads, and chintz scullcaps, which latter were purchased very readily. There were also lanterns, ewers, and copper pots, in considerable number ; and the venders of many of these retailed their goods on horseback, and all the purchasers were mounted.

No person ever at tends the bazar in Toorkistan but on horse back; and on the present occasion there was not a female to be seen, veiled or unveiled. Most of the people were Toorkmuns of the Oxus, dressed in high sheepskin caps, like the natives of Orgunje. There were about 2000 or 3000 people in the bazar ; but there was very little bustle and confusion, though there was much both of buying and selling. The custom of having market days is uncommon in India and Cabool, but of universal use in Toorki stan : it perhaps gives a stimulus to trade, and is most convenient ; since all the people of the country, for miles round, assemble on the oc casion. Every person seems to think it incum bent upon him to be present. The different articles are arranged in separate parts of the bazar, with as much regularity as in Bokhara itself: here you may buy grain, there fruit: here is meat, there is cloth, &c. The streets are so narrow, that the bazar is generally held at one end ofthe country towns ; and such was the case at Charjooee : so that fruit, grain, or any thing which requires to be displayed, is spread out on the ground.

The bazar lasts from Tie desert. eleven to four o'clock, which is the hottest time ofthe day. The wants of all had been supplied during our stay at Charjooee ; every one was ready to move, and every skin, pot, and pitcher was filled to the brim, from the canals of the Oxus. At noon on the 22d we commenced our march, and, before we had travelled a distance of two miles, entered upon the great desert which separates the kingdoms of Iran and Tooran. The mode of travelling in Toorkistan is to start at midday, and march till sunset ; and, after a couple of hours' rest and the indispensable cup of tea, to resume the task, and advance to the stage, which is usually reached at daylight. We made the usual evening halt, and then travelled till sunrise, when we reached Karoul, a well of brackish water, thirty feet under ground, and lined with branches of trees, at which we halted, a distance of twenty-two miles from Charjooee.

The whole tract presented to our view was a dreary waste of sand-hills, but by no means so destitute of vegetation and un derwood as on the northern bank of the Oxus. They, however, occurred in the same succession and formation as have been there described : they were quite soft, but the sand was not dusty, and the camels slid down them with their burthens. Here and there we came upon a Slaves, sheet of indurated clay, as if the sand-hills here also rested on a base of that kind. In these hollows, and on the brow ofthe hills, we found a shrub like tamarisk, called " kasura," also a kind of grass, or bent, called " salun." There were likewise two thorny shrubs, called " kuzzak" and "karaghan"*, neither of them the com mon camel thorn, but on which the camels delighted to browse. There was no water throughout the whole march, and no signs of inhabitants but a ruined fort, that had once served as a look-out from the Oxus.

The Indian deserts of Jaysulmeer and Parkur sank into insignificance before this vast ocean of sand. No sight is more imposing than a desert ; and the eye rests with a deep interest on the long line of camels, as it winds its crooked course through the frightful waste. The simile of a ship in the ocean and a camel in the desert may be hackneyed, but it is just. The objects animate impart a strong interest to inanimate nature. In the middle of our march through the desert, we met seven unfortunate Persians, who had been captured by the Toorkmuns, and were now on their road to Bokhara, where they would be sold. Five of them were chained together, and trod their way through the deep * I can only give the native names. sand. There was a general shout of compassion, as the caravan passed these miserable beings ; and the sympathy did not fail to affect the poor creatures themselves.

They cried, and gave a longing look, as the last camel of the caravan passed to their dear native country. The camel on which I rode happened to be in the rear, and I stayed to hear their tale of woe. They had been seized by the Toorkmuns at Ghaeen, near Meshid, a few weeks before, when the culture of their fields had led them beyond the threshold of their homes. They were weary and thirsty, and I gave them all I could, — a single melon ; a civility, little as it was, which was received with gratitude. What a frightful notion must not these unfortunate beings have entertained of the country they were entering, after their travels in such a desert. The Toorkmuns evince but little compassion for their Persian slaves ; and what other treat ment is to be expected from men who pass their lives in selling human beings.

They give them but a scanty supply of food and water, that they may waste their strength, and prevent their escape ; but beyond this the Toorkmun inflicts no other ills. The tales which have been circulated of their cutting the sinew of the heel, and of their passing a cord round the collar bone, are at variance with truth, since The caravan. these blemishes would diminish the value of the slave. These unfortunate captives suffer a much heavier calamity, — they lose their liberty. As we reached our halting-ground in the morning, we had now an opportunity of observing the number and composition of the caravan. There were upwards of eighty camels, and about 150 persons, several of them men of the first respectability, who accompanied their mer chandise to the markets of Persia. Some travelled in panniers placed on camels ; others rode, some on horses, many on donkeys ; but every person, even the meanest, had some kind of conveyance.

The horsemen preceded the camels ; and, stretching themselves out on the sand with their bridles in their grasp, stole a few moments' sleep, till the caravan overtook them. The scene was altogether curious and novel. Among the party there were eight or ten Persians, who had passed many years of slavery in Toorkistan, and, after purchasing their liberty, were now returning by stealth to their homes. These people were delighted with our enquiries ; and, in the journey, many of them became at tached to us. They would bring melons for us ; kill a sheep ; draw water ; and were always at hand. Some of them had been no less than three times captured, and as often had they redeemed themselves ; for the Uzbeks are readily imposed upon "and cheated by their slaves, who make money in service. I conversed with several of them ; and it was equally painful to hear their past sufferings and present anxiety.

Their influential countrymen in the caravan had put several of them in charge of a portion of their merchandise, that they might be the less noticed, and considered rather as traders than emancipated slaves ; for a Persian merchant in a caravan is generally safe. In spite of all this arrangement, some hard-hearted wretches had told tales on the banks of the Oxus : one indi vidual had been forced to return to Bokhara ; and some of the others had crossed with difficulty. One single hint to the people of Orgunje would, in all probability, yet arrest their further progress ; but every one had been well tutored. What must be the feelings of some of these men as they approach Persia. One of them told me that he had had a wife and a numerous family when sold into captivity, twenty-two years before ; of whom he had not heard any account since that period.

If any of them are alive, the parent will show himself among them as an apparition from the tomb. Another of these unfortunate individuals had a tale which was not less touching. He had been seized along with his family, and, indeed, all the inhabitants of his village, near Toorshish ; and delivered up, Well of Balghooee. by one of the Khorasan chiefs, to the Toork muns, who drove, on this occasion, upwards of a hundred people to Bokhara. At Maimunu, which is on the road, they were disposed of to other Toorkmuns, and at Bokhara finally sold. There this unfortunate man saw his wife sold to one, his daughter and son to others, and himself to a different person. A humane man, hearing of his misfortunes, released him, since he be lieved it good in the sight of God ; and the poor fellow lurked in Bokhara, like a bird near its nest that is robbed, in hopes of relieving the other members of his family.