Across Chrysê, being the narrative of a journey of exploration through the South China border lands from Canton to Mandalay ... With ... maps ... and ... illustrations [including a portrait], etc

Front matter

Frontispiece, Arol. n. ACROSS CHRYSE, BEING THE NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY OF EXPLORATION THROUGH THE SOUTH CHINA BORDER LANDS FROM CANTON TO MANDALAY. BY ARCHIBALD R. COLQUHOUN, EXECUTIVE ENGINEER, INDIAN PUBLIC WORKS, F.R.G.S., A.M. INST. C E. WITH 3 SPECIALLY PREPARED MAPS, 30 FACSIMILES OF NATIVE DRAWINGS, AND 300 ILLUSTRATIONS, Chiejly from Original Photographs and Sketches. IN TWO VOLUMES.— Vol. II. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, AND RIVINGTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. i883. [All rights reserved.] LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMKOHIJ STREET AND CHARINr. CROSS. PAGE I CONTENTS.

Chapter I

A messenger from the Prefect — Approach to Lin-an — Huge cemetery — Causeway — City of Lin-an — Rest and quiet — Well-behaved crowds — The Song-ka river — Prefect and General call — " Da-wapaw " — Cigarettes and cognac — -Inquiries regarding routes — Unhealthy season — -Ignorance of officials — Temple and schools — Old Chinese ladies — Aborigines — Commerce — Ennui — De"jeuner k la Pdkin — Yiinnan plague — Message to the Queen — " Hoangnau" — Prepare for march — Search for garden

Chapter II

Leave Lin-an — Laurel hedges — Joss-houses — Lake of I-long — Refreshing view — Handsome two-arch bridge — Conglomerate causeways — Stone versus brick — Italian lake scenery — Bunds — Fishing boats — Shipping — The French expedition — Seek shelter in a Ma-tien — Cantonese traders — Stuffy quarters — Trade from Canton — Information from pedlars — Mandarin's presents — Military versus civil — Lo-los .. .. .. .. .. .. 17

Chapter III

Flat-roofed houses — Worshipping at graves — Monumental portals — Shih-ping — Paucity of fish in Yunnan — Market goods — Heavy loads for women — Silver ornaments — People without a religion — Satisfied curiosity — A lake — Aboriginal tribes of one race — Streams draining into the Red River — A village in the mountains — A lovely prospect — Provoking choruses — Peeps through the mist — A mile and a half high — A glittering scene — A hill ten thousand feet high — Terraced hills — Mist not miasma — That dirty cloth — Watch dogs— Our title — Eating like pigs .. .. 29 a CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter IV

Lu-tung — Opium-smokers — Descent to the Red River — White azaleas and roses — A sunlit panorama — Graves — Wei-kans — A ferry — A grand reception — Yuan-kiang — Returning presents — Stolen fowls — Our cook — My stockings — My threat — In the French trail — Tedious journey up the Me'kong — Fate of the explorers — Small trade to be expected from Eastern Yunnan — Mining wealth — Barren country — Comparative wealth of Western and Central Yunnan — Route from British Burmah — Mineral wealth of Shan countries — The French foiled — Reasons for Chinese Government not opening up the mines — That elastic li — Difficulty in procuring accurate information — Various names of towns and rivers — Upper portion of the Red River unhealthy and unnavigable — Ch'ang, or miasma .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 39

Chapter V

Frequent changes of temperature at Yuan-kiang and Manhao — Trade of Yuan-kiang and Men-tzu — Tribes near Yuan-kiang — Travelling like princes — Our "braves" — Yiinnanese music — Flowering shrubs and tree scenery — Lo-lo women— Different modes of hair-dressing — A winding path — The Chin-tien — A filthy inn — Pigging it — Women porters — Neglected fields — Destruction of the population — Beautiful hill-country — A blue-balled mandarin — Dress of the peasantry — Independent air of the muleteers — Weapons and fans — Birmingham buttons — Reception at Talan — Kindness of the Sub-Prefect — Living well — Christopher Sly — European goods selling at Talan .. .. .. ..40

Chapter VI

Cold calculated by the blankets required — A poisonous crab Strange animals said to exist near the Mekong and Anam I-bang or " Puerh " tea— Source of the Nam-hou river — Chinese name for Kiang-hung — Tea near Talan — Aborigines of South Yunnan the same as the Shans of Burmah, the Shan country and Siam — Position of Lao-chua and Pou-fang — Chinese names for Burmah— Kiang-hung independent— Disturbances caused by the French in Tonquin — A present for the Queen — A remedy for the plague besought— Chinese do not travel in Laos in the hot weather or rains— A present of aboriginal sketches— An iron suspension-bridge— All rivers in Yunnan unnavigable— Large caravans of salt, tea and cotton .. , .. CONTENTS. V

Chapter VII. Page

A broken-up table-land — Reason of the frequency of ascents and descents — Tong-kwan — An English-looking chief — A handsome tripod — Illness of Charles Wahab — A lady to the rescue — The Papien river — A dangerous path — Weariness, sickness, and heat — A fever-stricken village — Stinking inns — Mohe — Sure-footed mules — Imminent danger — High peaks — The plain of Puerh — Salt mines — Dejected — Puerh desolated by the rebellion — Ssu-mao — Proposed routes .. .. .. .. .. • • 75

Chapter VIII

Rumours of disturbances in the Shan country — Unlikelihood of their being true — Defection of our interpreter — Discourtesy of Ssu-mao mandarin — Inadvisability of entering Kiang-hung without followers — Impossibility of travelling in the Shan country without an interpreter — My change of route — Having it out with the interpreter .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..87

Chapter IX

Similarity to Shan country — Absence of poppy cultivation — The tea-districts of I-bang and I-wu — Coal, gold, silver, iron and copper mines — Caravans of tea and cotton — Decrease of Ssu-mao in consequence of the rebellion — Its natural importance and future prospects, if the Shan country is developed by a railway — The track of the plague — Trade of Ssu-mao — Lawas — The Papien and Nam-hou possibly the same river — Causeways in ruin — Civility of the people — Mussulmans — Chinese — Resuming our journey — Keen disappointment — Remarks on the French expedition — Doubts of the French as to the possibility of a railway — An easy task for English engineers — Eating our hearts — A welcome at Nakoly — A pleasant evening stroll .. .. ..98

Chapter X

Thibetan muleteers — Hearing of Cooper — Lying comes easy — Tying animals' tails up — Articles from the Shan country — Women laden like beasts — Wearing the breeches — Cessation of polite attentions from the mandarins — Conversation with officials at Puerh — Our letter to Yiinnan-fu — Delicious tea — A filthy inn — Artificial manners — A shabby escort — Reason for its being insisted upon — Illness of Charles Wahab — A mandoline at last .. CONTENTS. VI

Chapter XI. Page

Up-and-down marching— The Papien river— Cultivation— Han-jen or Chinese settlers— Geniality of the people— Cottage hospitality —Various tribes— Beauty of the scenery— An hydraulic rice-pounder— Working in the fields— Comparison between natural and artificial beauties— One meal more on holidays— A timid beauty — Not daring a rescue — Effects of war and pestilence — Frank hospitality— Heavy rain— Plundering soldiers— Might should prove right— The costume of the Oni— Their marriages —Lo-lo writing— Rice-spirit— Four-bottle men — A fatal quarrel — Poisonous water — Hsin-fu — Lodging in a joss-house — An evening chat— Kwan-yii — En-lo, a prosperous village — A repair at last "9 CHAPTER xii. Ruins and cultivation — Dusky race — Large turbans — Weapons — Social traders — Black-mail on the Bhamo route — Advice as to crossing the Kachyen hills — Bearded men — An opium-smoker — Chay-kaw — Journal-keeping under difficulties — Wider valley — The Ching-tung plain — A once prosperous and beautiful valley — Plague-stricken — Deserted villages — Description of Ching-tung — Nine-tenths of the houses deserted — Sandstone wei-kans — Nature -worship — Nam-tsing-tsing pagoda — Paifang with lions — A Roman Catholic's petition — Water-wheels of bamboo — Local pronunciation .. .. .. .. .. ..132

Chapter XIII

Reception at Ching-tung — The examination hall — Sandstone — An army on paper — Filthy barracks — Destruction of public works by the people — A pleasant General — Pining for a halt — Kindness of the Prefect — Thirty dishes at dinner — Groaning chair-bearers — Use of a palanquin — Through the country of the plague — Contact with the plague — Selfishness of the Chinese — Central Yunnan easily approached from the north and south along the Papien valley — A delicious wild tea — Superiority of the Shan tea — Courtesy of the western Yiinnanese — Crossing the rivers Muleteers and their beasts — Dogs — Gay trappings — Brigand-like muleteers — Method of journeying — A straw a-day— Shan ponies — Saddles and trestles — Muleteers from Tali .. ,. j42 CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XIV. Page

The Brother and Sister Hills — Gorge on the Papien river — Lungai — Ingenious water-wheel — hoofed bridges — Slang abuse from a caravan — An officious escort — Effect of opium on the Yiinnanese ■ — Shady walking — Beautiful river reaches — Pine forests and cypress — Slippery path — Field-workers — - Athletes — Ploughing and planting — Road along the Papien — Man-kai — Decorated temples — Marks of affluence — Watch towers — Pai-fangs and Wei-kans — Chukai — A handsome bridge — -Sheetung — Cave temples — A three-storied temple — A priest .. .. -153

Chapter XV

Kindness to children — Hospitality — Buxom hostesses — Power of a cheerful voice — Samaritans — Rice jelly — Absence of game — Pheasant, partridge, pig and deer — Game on the frontiers — Weirs, water-wheels and aqueducts — Pei Lo-los — Mong-hoa Jen — A lady-guide — Careless wooers — Flowers, shrubs, fruit and trees — Fairy palms and genii fists — A daft observer — A master-mason at work — Leaving the Papien — Nan-tien — Fort and pavilions — Numerous villages — Gigantic fissures — Geological sections — Religious edifices — A fertile country — An exasperating road — ■ Willows — ■ French scenery — A seven-tiered pagoda — Sticky fingers — A beautiful valley — An oval pagoda — Result of the war — Description of Mong-hoa — Nature versus paint — A Mahomedan stronghold — Chinese weapons .. .. ..165

Chapter XVI

A hearty welcome — Sun-tien — A large market — Golden nectar — Double-storied houses — A Mahomedan country — A deserted village — Imitation marble — A fine yamen — Lolos a hill-people — A remunerative speculation — Hot springs — A heavy price — Summit of range — The Tali lake — The Tien-tsang Shan- View from Hsia-kuan — Snow-patched mountains — A fortified town — Illness of Charles Wahab — Hunger — Politeness — Sickness—Prostration — Kindness of Mr. and Mrs. Clarke — A pleasant rest — Rain — Advice of the Taotai of Tali — The plague .. .. .. ,. .. .. -. ... •• 'T6 CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII. Page

British goods found in the Shan country and Yunnan— Absence of communication — Intention to explore for railway — Want of new markets — Efforts to discover a good trade-route — Interest taken in the subject — Extension of British Burmah railway system — Captain Sprye — Physical description of Yunnan — Richness of the south and south-west — Effect of war — Opium — Population — Imports — Exports — Mines — Independence of the Shan country — Puerh tea — French in Tonquin — Difficulty of proceeding inland from Manhao — No satisfactory statistics about trade of the Shan country — Population of Shan — Rapid increase of trade with Upper Burmah — Cattle from Shan — Taxation of Shan traders by King of Ava — Trade and affluence of British Burmah — Increase of population and trade in Tenasserim — Arakan — Annexation of British Burmah — Fears of the Government of India — Heavy surplus revenue — Great increase of trade — Cause of increase — Irrawadi Flotilla Company — Mandalay traders — Success of Rangoon and Prome Railway ■ — Toungoo Railway — Suggested extension to Mandalay and Assam — More communications required — Reasons of sparse population — Cause of its increase — A Resident required at Zimmd — Importance of that place — Chinese settlers .. .. .. .. .. ..189

CHAPTER XVIIL

Importance of the development of trade with Shan — Letter from Chief Commissioner — Advocates communications — Value of traffic — French exploration — Markets — Order on British frontier — A Resident at Zimmerequired — Proposed mission to Kiang-hung — Sir Arthur Phayre advocates direct route to Shan and China — Chinese as settlers — General Fytche proposes exploration — Character of the Shans — Their means of carriage Mr. Cushing— Routes to Yunnan — Distances — Railway from Maulmain vid Zimmd the best — Discussion of routes — Description of Shan — Lacustrine formation — Broken-up table lands Drainage — Gorges of the Salween — Bhamo route — Absurdity of the Bhamo to Tali and Yunnan Railway — Country between Mandalay and Kiang-hung— Railway proposed from Martaban and Rangoon, vid Zimmd, to Kiang-hung — Reasons for its construction—Summing up— Exploration needed — Assistance from Mr. Holt Hallett — A prophecy .. .. .. ,. 2lg CONTENTS. IX PAGE 241

Chapter XIX

Difficulty in procuring a guide— Mr. Clarke's influence — A heavy squeeze — A dismal outlook— A week in Tali — Moneyless — Arrangement for payment in Bhamo — Wafer-cheese — The taking of Tali — Butchery — French guns — Treachery — A massacre — ■ " Panthay " a misnomer — Origin of Mahomedan rebellion — Injustice — Yearly fair — Unvisited by Burmese — Mahomedan pagodas — Desecrated graves — Kutsung and Kutung — Missionary work at Tali — A lady missionary — Promising fields for work — Mr. Clarke's schools — Thibetan dance — Pere Leguilcher — A palace — A hated General — A Lothario — A college endowed

Chapter XX

Description of Tali — Marble quarries — English wares — Cantonese opium-smugglers — Specific for leprosy — Parting with " Jacko " — Chewing betel — Fish, fruit, cheese and butter — Minkia — Lissons — Han-jen — Temperature — Three crops in a year — Gold — Silver mines — Official peculations — Temple of the " Lady of Mercy " — Honorary tablets — A modest request — Thibetan pilgrims — " Stinking Tartars " — Llamas — Praying machine — The Baksi — Plausible beggars .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 254

Chapter XXI

Start from Tali — Our cortege and cuisine — Deposing the cook — Great saving — Parting with the " daft " horseman — Waterproofs " by courtesy" — Ho-chiang-pu — Pere Terrasse — View of the Tali range — -Yang-pi — "Englishman?" — La belle France — Hospitality of a French priest — Character of the aborigines — Starved in the mountains — Cigars — Chii-tung — A terrible road — A Mahomedan official — Pere Vial — Reported annexation of Upper Burmah — Sha-yang — Filthy inn — A hint — Approach to the Me"kong — A suspension bridge — Unnavigable and unhealthy valleys — Marco Polo — Ping-po — Climbing a slippery cliff — A magnificent view — Refreshment — The Belly-god — Our renegade conductor — Shui-chai — A clean lodging .. .. .. .. 264

Chapter XXII

The Yung-chang valley — A beautiful plain- — The battle of Unciam — A mist-clad view — The town of Yung-chang — Through traffic — CONTENTS. X PAGE 300 Restaurants— Scarcity of firewood— Ruins— Pan-ch'iao— Pekin dialect—" Learn or die "—Soldiers as schoolmasters— Tribute from Burmah — Fairness of the women not remarkable — Altera tion of caravan route — Dealing with rogues — A winning game — My resolve — Retracing our steps — Fever at Shui-chai .. .. 277

Chapter XXIII

A clean inn— Jabbering at night — Opium-sodden — Too talkative neighbours — A wet and dangerous journey — Welcome from Pere Vial— A consultation— Offer of Pere Vial — Settling with the muleteer and interpreter — Patient duplicity — A wheezy mandarin — A comprehensive answer — Our cavalcade — Reducing our baggage — Mahomedan plain-dwellers — Lo-lo hill-people — Conservatives — Unaffected women — Rapid loss of distinct costumes — Lo-lo writing . . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 288

Chapter XXIV

Description of the aborigines — "The Devil's Net" — Devilish customs — Conquest of Yunnan — The long-suffering wife — Rule of succession — Unclean eaters — " Women mandarins " — Mr. Clarke's manuscript an appendix — Extinction of aboriginal Lo-lo costumes — Cocks on their own dung-heap> — Lo-lo and Man-tzu the same race ?— Origin of the tribes — Pai and Lo-lo distinct nationalities— Interesting races— The black, white, and red Miaos — Country of the Man-tzii — The captivity of Monseigneur Fenouil— Independent races — Treacherous dealings of the Chinese — Failure to dislodge the Kachyens — Untrustworthy guardians — Wholesale bribery — Character of the Man-tzii — Their raids— Immorality of the Sifans and Pai-los — The Li-ssus, a hunting people — Musk-deer— Their different aboriginal races in Yunnan — Variety of costumes — Variety of language, money and measures— Whitened sepulchres— Han-jen women, a pitiful sight — Large caravans of salt and cotton— A felon's head

Chapter XXV

Leaving Chii-tung— Views near Tali-shao— Passes " opening heavenwards "—A Normandy valley— Sha-yang — Photographing the Me'kong— Public works in Yunnan— Pigs as pets — A clamber Crossing the Salween— Stifling heat— Exhaustion of men and CONTENTS. XI PAGE animals — A plague-stricken valley — A chain suspension-bridge — A photograph — Fever-stricken cultivators — A fall, and narrow escape — Crossing the Shwe"li — A lovely view — Kan-lang-chai — A verdant plain — Teng-yueh, a " Sleepy Hollow " — Reception — The General's boast — Start from Teng-yueh — Caravans proceeding over most difficult country — " Good for ten years, bad for ten thousand " — Mr. Baber's opinion of the road from Yunnan to Teng-yueh — Railway from Bhamo to Yunnan impossible — A playful chief — The Ta-ping valley — Burmese scenery at Kan-ngai — Chinese Shans — Fail to cross the river — Our manœuvre — The ferry at last — Reach Chanta .. .. .. .. .. -.314 CHAPTER XXVl.

Arrival at Manwyne — Loss of photographs imminent — Time for action — Wretched lodgment at Manwyne — The story of Margary's murder — The notorious Li-si-tai — His visit — He leaves Manwyne — Reason of disturbances in Kachyen hills — Mandarinic method of dealing with frontier hill people — The Kachyens declare a vendetta against all comers from China — Our anxiety — Which route is the safest ? — Leave Manwyne — Abandon greater part of baggage — March to Lasa or Latha .. .. 334

CHAPTER XXVIL

Arrival at Lasa — Negotiations for guides — Lasa — Tous les chemins conduisent a Pe"kin — Our guides' ruse — A Kachyen Chief's house — Portico or Strangers' Hall ; which is safer ? — Chief refuses guides or safeguard — Start without guide — March through Long-chuan plain — Reach Lawan — A " torrent " road — Last view of China ! — Kachyen reception — Kachyens ; their houses and superstitions — Adventure in forest — Terrible night — Maykong — Kachyens ; food, hamlets, clans, habitat — Arrival of the " Great Chief " — Arrange to leave Maykong .. .. .. 342

CHAPTER XXVIII.

A night with the sand-flies— Where is Sinkai ? — Voila l'lrrawadi ! — Our goal at last — Effects on party — March across plain — The gate-keeper at Bhamo — We search for the " teachers " — Our reception by the American missionaries — A fairy breakfast and its impression on us — Mr. Stevenson's kindness — Charles CONTENTS. Wahab gets worse — New outfit — " Three first-class loafers ! " — Farewell to Bhamo — New life on board steamer — Stay at Man dalay — Bishop Bourdon assists us with funds — Reach Rangoon — Dr. Griffiths' attendance on Charles Wahab — Reception at Rangoon — Parting with Cantonese followers — Visit to Simla to wait on H.E. the Viceroy — Banquet at Bombay, minus the guest — Off for home! .. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Photograph of Charles Wahab . . Frontispiece Bridge over the river at Lin-an Full page, to face 3 A Chinese teacher and pupil .. .. .. .. lt 1; 7 Plan of temple at Lin-an (From Author's sketch) 7 Dominie at Lin-an ........ ,, 8 Sketch map, showing route of Marco Polo . . . . . . . . . . 9 Main street, Lin-an (From original photograph) 10 General and escort, at Lin-an .. .. .. ,, „ 11 The Prefect's secretary, at Lin-an .... „ „ 12 The Prefect and General, at Lin-an .... ,, „ 16 Bridge near Lin-an .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 19 Tin-pan Yeou-jen (Kai-hua district) .. ..

(From native drawing) 28 Example of "pai-fang" (S. Yunnan) .. .. (From Author's sketch) 30 Lo-lo woman and ornaments (S. Yunnan) . . ,, ,, 31 Group of aborigines (S. Yunnan) .... „ „ 32 Sketch of W. end of Hai-kau lake .... „ „ 33 Hei Pai women (Kai-hua district) . . . . (From native drawing) 38 Poula men (Kai-hua district) ...... ,, ,, 38 Hill tribes, near Talan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 So-be woman (Yuan-kiang district) .. .. (From Author's sketch) 49 Si-yung Lo (Talan district) . . . . . . (From native drawing) 50 Han-pai woman (Yuan-kiang district) .. .. (From Author's sketch) 51 Half-breed woman (Yuan-kiang district) . . ,, ,, 51 Teou Lao woman (Yuan-kiang district) . . .. ,, ,, 51 Lo-lo woman (Yuan-kiang district) .... ,, ., 51 Examples of Yiinnanese soldiery. . .. .. „ ,, 52 Lo-lo women, caps and necklace .. .. ,, „ 53 So-be woman porter .. .. .. .. ,, „ 55 W6-ni or Winni woman .. .. .. .. „ ,, 55 Specimens of bamboo hats, boot and shoe .. ,, „ 57 Muleteer of S. Yunnan ........ ,, „ 57 Hei W6-ni or Winni woman (Talan district) . .

(From native drawing) 60 Hei Kateo woman (Talan district) .... ,, ,, 60 Market street, at Talan . . . . . . . . (From original photograph) 61 Exterior of temple, Talan ...... ,, „ LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XIV PAGE Panelling in temple, Talan (From original photograph) 63 Po-Miao woman, back view (Talan district) . . (From Author's sketch) 66 Hei Wo-ni or Winni woman (Talan district) . . » » Sketch of man's head, at Talan >> " 7 Sketch of woman, at Talan >» " Po Wo-ni or Winni woman, at Talan .... ,, >> ' Sketch-map, south of Talan •> " Our sitting-room in yamen, at Talan . . . . (From original photograph) 70 Boy at Tchang-luping (From Author's sketch) 72 Suspension-bridge, Lysien river (From original photograph) 73 Approach to suspension-bridge, Lysien river . . „ .. 74 A Yunnanese valley Full page, to face 76 Sketch of woman, near Puerh (From Author's sketch) 77 Group of aborigines, W. Yunnan .... ,, >> 7° Sketch near Tong-k wan >> >> 79 Saddle of S. Yunnan •> >> 8l Sketch of woman near Mo-he ...... ,, >> °2 Market group, W. Yunnan ,.

" °4 Yunnanese resident in Kiang-hung °° End view, bridge over Papien river . . . . (From original photograph) 97 Market scene, S.W. Yunnan (From Author's sketch) 102 Po Wo-ni or Winni women (Talan district) . . (From native drawing) 107 Lao Puttu women (Talan district) .... ,, ,, l°7 Our mid-day halt, W. Yunnan (From original photograph) 1 10 Sketch of woman, Papien valley (From Author's sketch) 112 Po Wo-ni or Winni woman .. .. .. ,, „ II2 Lo-lo or Mang-lao woman (Talan district) . . (From native drawing) 115 Pee-yo or Pee-yau woman (Talan district) . . ,, ,, US Cheti-jen women (Talan district) .... ,, ,, 118 Puttu woman, S.W. Yunnan (From Author's sketch) 120 Roadside farm, S.W. Yunnan ,, ,, 121 A damsel in distress ,, ,, 123 Katu, Oni or Homi, Papien valley .... „ ,, 126 Lo-lo woman threshing corn, Papien valley .. ,, ,, 127 Tablet indicating poisonous water, Papien valley „ ,, 128 " Wei-kan " at Kwen-yii ,, „ 130 Cash coined by Emperor Hien Fung, 1851-1861 130 Group of muleteers, W. Yunnan (From original photograph) 133 Midday halt in ruined village, W. Yunnan . . ,, ,, 137 Specimen of " wei-kan," W. Yunnan .. ..

(From Author's sketch) 138 Feng-shui pagoda, at King-tong ,, ,, 140 Water-wheel, Papien valley ,, ,, 140 Bridge over the Papien river, near Lun-gai . . (From original photograph) 140 Type of Mahomedan face in Yunnan .. .. .. .. .. ..152 A street in Lun-gai, W. Yunnan. . .. .. (From original photograph) 154 Water-wheel at Lun-gai, W. Yunnan .... „ ,. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. XV T> -J PAGE Bridge at Lun-gai (From original photograph) 156 Watch-tower, W. Yunnan (From Author's sketch) 162 "Pai-fang," at entrance to villages, W. Yunnan ,, „ 162 Specimens of " wei-kans," W. Yunnan . . . . ,, 162 Village of Shee-tung, with cave temples . . (From original photograph) 163 The large "cave-temple," at Shee-tung. . .. ,, ;) _{_,, Weirs on Papien river for irrigation . . . . (From Author's sketch) 168 Hwa Lo-lo woman (Meng-hua district) . . .. ,, „ 168 Chinese ornaments .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 17c Aboriginal woman threshing corn . . . .

(From original photograph) 177 Sketch of group at fair, near Sun-tien . . . . (From Author's sketch) 177 Sketch of woman at fair .. .. .. .. ,, n 178 Sketch of man at fair .. .. .. .. ,, ;J 178 Chinese Mussulman .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 180 Entrance to temple, at Tali (From original photograph) 186 Ancient cash, coined A.D. 25 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Interior of Yang Yu-ko's palace, Tali .. . . (From original photograph) 218 Front view of temple, at Tali . . . . . . ,, (. 240 Mahomedan pagodas, at Tali Full page, to face 246 Group of children at China Inland Mission, Tali (From original photograph) 247 Teacher at China Inland Mission, Tali . . . . ,, .. 249 Opium god, Tali . . . . . . . . . . ,, n 2_o Muleteer and son, Tali . . . . . . . . ,, ._ 251 Scene in courtyard at Yang Yu-ko's palace, Tali ,, „ 252 Mahomedan graveyard at Tali . . . . . . ,, ,, 253 Mr. and Mrs. Clarke, China Inland Mission, Tali ,, ,, 256 Han-jen boy, S. Yunnan .. .. ..

(From Author's sketch) 258 Types of Min-kia (or Min-chia) at Tali . . . . . . Full page, to face 258 Taoist priest, Tali . . .. .. .. . . (From original photograph) 261 Beggar, at Tali „ „ 262 A Thibetan Llama, at Pekin . . . . . . . . Full page, to face 263 Offering sacrifice to god of the kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . 265 Our method of travel in W. Yunnan . . . . (From original photograph) 267 Halt of mandarins and escort at wayside inn .. ,, ,, 269 Group at R. C. Mission at Chu-tung .... „ ,, 271 Min-chia women and children . . . . . . ,, ,, 275 Po-lung or Po-loung man and woman (Shunning district) (From native drawing) 286 Prayers at R. C. Mission, at Chii-tung . . . . (From original photograph) 292 Au-chung man and woman (Shunning district). . (From native drawing) 295 Group at R. C. Mission at Chii-tung . . . .

(From original photograph) 296 Piu-lut men (Shunning district) . . . . . . (From native drawing) 298 Hei-la man and woman (Shunning district) .. ,, ,, 298 Types of Man-tzii (N. Yunnan and Ssu-chuan). . . . Full page, to face 305 Examples of Hsi-fan (or Si-fan) in N.W. Yunnan . . ,, „ 308 Li-ssu (or Lissou) man and woman (N.W. Yunnan) . . . . . . . . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Coolie carrying a felon's head .. .. .. (From Author's sketch) 312 Hu-han man and woman (Shunning district) . . (From native drawing) 313 A leper beggar .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 316 Suspension-bridge over the Mekong river .. (From original photograph) 317 Suspension-bridge over the Sal ween river .. ,, ,, 3 '9 View on Ta-ping river, W. Yunnan .. .. ,, ,, 325 Pai or Shan priest and disciple (Shunning district) (From native drawing) 328 Shan head-dress and ornaments . . . . . . . .

Full page, to face 329 Pai or Shan man and boy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329 Shan woman, Ta-ping valley .. .. .. (From Author's sketch) 333 Kowli (or Kowri) Kachyen woman .. .. ,, ,, 333 Interview with Li-si-tai, at Manwyne .. .. ,, . ,, 337 Yeh-jens or Kachyens . . . . . . . . (From native drawing) 340 Kachyen matrons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 Kachyen men . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 Group of Kachyen women . . . . . . . . Full page, to face 352 View in Bhamo . . . . . . . . . . . . ,, „ 357 A Burmese festival cart (From photograph)