The Innocents Abroad, or the New Pilgrims' Progress; being some account of the steamship Quaker City's pleasure excursion to Europe and the Holy Land ... With two hundred and thirty-four illustrations. By Mark Twain, Samuel L. Clemens, etc

Front matter

THE QUAKER CITY IN A STOKM (Page 62.) TILE PILGRIM'S VISION. THE INNOCENTS ABROAD, OR THE MAY PILGRIMS' PROGRESS; BEING SOME ACCOUNT OF THE STEAMSHIP QUAKER CITY'S PLEASURE EXCURSION TO EUROPE AND THE HOLY LAND; WITH DESCRIPTIONS OF COUNTRIES, NATIONS, INCIDENTS AND ADVENTURES, AS THEY APPEARED TO THE AUTHOR. WITH TWO HUNDRED AND THLETY-FOUR ILLUSTRATIONS. BY MARK TWAIN", (SAMUEL L. CLEMENS.) (ISSUED BY SUBSCRIPTION OXLV, AND NOT FOR SAILE IN THE BOOKSTORES. RESIDENTS OF ANY STATE DESIRING A COPY SHOULD ADDRESS THE PUBLISHERS, AND AN AGENT WILL CALL UPON THEM.) HARTFORD, CONN.: AMERICAN PUBLISHING COMPANY. BLISS & CO., NEWARK, N. J.; R. W. BLISS & CO, TOLEDO, OHIO. F. G. GILMAN & CO., CHICAGO, ILL.; NETTLETON & CO., CINCINNATI, OHIO. F. A. HUTCHINSON & CO., ST. LOUIS, MO. H. H. BANCROFT AND COMPANY, SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 1869.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1869, by AMERICAN PUBLISHING CO., In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Connecticut. T° JVlY /A.OST J^ATIENT JJ.EADER AND JViosT Charitable Critic, yviy This Volume is Affectionately Inscribed.

Preface

. This book is a record of a pleasure-trip. If it were a record of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity, and that impressive incomprehensibility which are so proper to works of that kind, and withal so attractive. Yet not withstanding it is only a record of a pic-nic, it has a purpose, which is, to suggest to the reader how he would be likely to see Eurojje and the East if he looked at them with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who travelled in those countries before him. I make small pretence of showing any one how he ought to look at objects of interest beyond the sea — other books do that, and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need. I offer no apologies for any departures from the usual style of travelwriting that may be charged against me — for I think I have seen with impartial eyes, and I am sure I have written at least honestly, whether wisely or not.

In this volume I have used portions of letters which I wrote for the Daily Alta California, of San Francisco, the proprietors of that journal having waived their rights and given me the necessary permission. I have also inserted portions of several letters written for the New York Tribune and the New Yrork Herald. THE AUTHOR. San Francisco, 1869. PAGB 1. The Quaker City in a Storm Frontispiece — 2. Illuminated Title-Page— The Pilgrim's Vision — 3. " I 'll Pay Tou in Paris " 28 4. The Start SO 5. "Good Morning, Sir" 34 6. The Old Pirate 36 7. Dancing Under Difficulties 42 8. The Mock Trial 44 9. " Land, no ! " ....... 49 10. The Capote 52 11. TEuin and Desolation 53 12. Port of Horta, Fayal (Full Page), face page 56 13. " Sekki-Yaii ! " 59 14. Beautiful Stranger 64 15. Rock of Gibraltar (Full Page), face page 65 16.

"Queen's Chair" 6T 17. The Oracle 70 18. The Interrogation Point 71 19. Garrison at Malabat 72 20. Entertaining an Angel 74 21. View of a Street in Tangier 77 22. Change for a Napoleon §i 23. The Consul's Family 88 24. " Poet Lariat " 91 25. First Supper in France 95 26. Painting 95 27. Kinging for Soap 99 28. u Wine, Sir I" 100 29. The Pilgrim J01 30. Thk Prisoner 10S 81. Homeless France (Full Page), face page...... ltlg 32. Railroad Official in France 10g 33 ** Five Minutes for Refreshments." America Illustrations. VII PAGE 84. •- Thirty Minutes for Dinner." * France 110 85. The Old Traveller Ill 86. A Decided Shave 115 87. A Gas-tly Substitute 1 17 88. The Three Guides 119 89. " Ze Sii.k Magazin " 122 40. Return in War Paint 124 41. Napoleon III 126 42. Abdul Aziz 126 43. The Morgue 132 44.

We took a walk 135 45. The Can-Can 13S 46. Graves of Abelard and Heloise 141 47. A Pair of Canons of ISth Century 142 4S. The Private Marriage. . . HI 49. American Drinks _ 148 50. Royal Honors to a Yankee. 150 51. The Gbisette 151 52. Fountain at Versailles 154 53. Women of Genoa 181 54. Petrified Lackey I63 55. Priest and Friar 164 56. Statue of Columbus 168 57. Graves of Sixty Thousand 169 5S. Eoof and Spires of Cathedral at Milan (Full Page), face page 172 59. Central Door of Cathedral at Milan 1^3 60. Interior of Cathedral at Milan 1"4 61. Boyhood's Experience 1 ?*■■ 62. Treasures of the Cathedral 179 63. Cathedral at Milan 181 64. La Scala Theatre Is4 65. Copying from Old Masters 191 66. Facial Expression 194 67. TnE Echo I96 68. Note Book ' 197 69. A Kiss for a Franc 198 70. The Fumigation 200 71.

Lake Como 203 72. Garden, Lake Como (Full Page), Face Page 204 73. Social Driver 207 74. Wayside Sheine 208 75. Peace and Happiness 2l***9 76. Castle of Count Luigi 210 77. The Wicked Brother 21**> 7S. Disgusted Gondolier 2-° 79. Cathedral of St. Mark 226 SO. The Peg 229 81. "Good-by" 23° 82. M'sieue Goe-r-dong "™ 83. Monument to the Doge 84. St. Mark. By TnE Old Mastees •*■'"**' 85. St. Matthew. By the Old Masters 288 S6. St. Jerome. By TnE Old Masters 233 87. St. Sebastian. By the Old Masters 2'f 88. St. Unknown. By the Old Masters **9 Illustrations. PAGE 89. Rialto Bridge 241 90 Bridge of Sighs 241 91. Florence 245 92. The Pensioner 246 93. " I Want to go Home " 243 94. The Leaning Tower 250 95. The Contrast 258 96. Italian Pastimes 263 97. Incendiary Document 264 98. A Roman of 1S69 267 99.

Mamertine Prison 2(6 100. Old Roman 273 101. Coliseum of Ancient Rome * 2S1 102. Did not Complain 2S5 103. Humboldt House 2S6 104. Dan 2S3 105. Bronze Statue 2S9 106. Penmanship 291 107. On a Bust 293 103. Vaults of the Content 299 109. Dried Convent Fruits - 302 110. At the Store 303 111. At Home 304 112. Soothing the Pilgrims 309 118. Ascent of Mt. Vesuvius 313 114. Bay of Naples 316 115. The Mustang 319 116. Island of Capri 320 117. Blue Grotto S21 IIR. Vesuvius and Bay of Naples (Full Page), face page 323 119. The Descent 325 120. Ruins, Pompeii 327 121. Forum of Justice, Pompeii 330 122. House, Pompeii 335 123. Stromboli 33 S 124. View of the Acropolis, looking West 341 125. " Ho I" 343 126. The Assault 344 127. The Caryatides 346 128. The Parthenon (Full Page), face page 34S 129. We Sidled, not Ran 350 130.

Ancient Acropolis _ S52 131. Tail Piece, Ruins 353 132. Queen of Greece 355 133. Palace at Athens 356 134. Street Scene in Constantinople (Full Page) face page S59 135. Goose Rancher 360 136. Mosque of St. Sophia 363 137. Turkish Mausoleum 365 13S. Slandered Dogs 371 139. The Censor on Duty 874 140. Turkish Bath 378 141. Far- A way-Moses 3S2 142. A Fragment 3S5 143. Tail-Piece— A Memento Illustrations. IX PAGE 144. Yalta from TnE Emperor's Palace 392 145. Emperor op Russia 393 146. Tinsel King 399 147. Ship Emperor 404 14S. The Reception 405 149. Street Scene in Smyrna. 411 150. Smyrna 413 151. An Apparent Success 416 152. Drifting to Starboard 419 153. A Spoiled Nap 420 154. Ancient Amphitheatre at Ephesus 422 155. Modern Amphitheatre at Ephesus.. . 423 156. Ruins of Ephesus ', 424 157. The Journey- * 425 15S. Graves ofthe Seven Sleepers 429 159.

The Selection 434 160. Camping Out 436 161. Tail Piece — Arabs' Tents 437 162. A Good Feeder 439 163. Interesting Fete 440 164. Sunday School Grapes 442 165. An Old Fogy 445 166. Race with a Camel 446 167. Temple ofthe Sun 447 16S. Ruins of Baalbec 449 169. Hewn Stones in Quarry 450 170. Mercy 452 171. Patron Saint 453 172. Water Carrier. 455 173. View of Damascus, (Full Page) face page 456 174. Street Cars of Damascus. 460 175. Full Dressed Tourist 466 176. Impromptu Hospital 474 177. The Horse "Baalbec" 476 178. Oak of Bashan 479 179. Dangerous Arab 432 1S0. Grimes on the Wae-Path 4S3 181. Tail-Piece — Bedouin Camp 497 182. Home of Ancient Pomp 489 133. Jack 490 184. A Disappointed Audience 491 185. Fig-Tree 495 1S6. li Fare too High " 497 187. Syrian House 504 183. Tiberias and Sea of Galilee 606 1S9.

The Guard 516 190. Mount Tabor 521 191. Tail-Piece— Gathering Fuel 524 192. Fountain of the Virgin 530 193. " Madonna-like Beauty " 531 194 Putnam Outdone 533 195. The Bastinado 535 196. "IWept" 536 197. Want of Dignity 539 198. An Oriental Well , X Illustrations, pack 199. Arabs Saluting 545 200. Free Sons of tile Desert 546 201. Shechem 552 202. Tail Piece— Gate of Jerusalem 556 203. Beggars in Jerusalem 559 204. Church of the Holy Sepulchre 564 205. Grave of Adam 566 206. View of Jerusalem (Full Page), face page 574 207. The Wandering Jew 577 20S. Mosque of Omap. 581 209. An Epidemic 589 210. Charge on Bedouins 590 211. Dead Sea 594 212. Grotto ofthe Nativity- (Full Page), face page 601 213. Jaffa (Full Page), face page 606 214. Rear Elevation of Jack 610 215. Street in Alexandria sill 216.

Viceroy of Egypt fil2 217. Eastern Monarch 614 218. Moses S. Beacb 615 219. Room No. 15 €17 220. The Nilometer 620 221 Ascent of the Pyramids 622 222 High Hopes Frustrated 625 223 King's Chamber in the Pyramid, (Full Page), face page 626 224. A Powerful Argument 627 225- Pyramids and Sphynx, (Full Page), face page 629 226. The Relic Hunter 630 227 The Mameluke's Leap 631 228. Would not be Comforted 633 229. Tail Piece, The Traveler 634 230 Homeward Bound 635 231. Bad Coffee 639. 232 Our Friends the Bermudians 640 233. Captain Duncan 641 234. Tail Piece, Finis CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

Popular Talk of the Excursion — Programme of the Trip — Duly Ticketed for the Excursion — Defection of the Celebrities 19

Chapter II

Grand Preparations — An Imposing Dignitary — The European Exodus — Mr. Blucher's Opinion — Stateroom No. 10 — The Assembling of the Clans — At Sea at last 26

Chapter III

"Averaging" the Passengers — "Far, far at Sea" — Tribulation among the Patriarchs — Seeking Amusement under Difficulties — Five Captains in the Ship 32 CHAPTER IT. The Pilgrims Becoming Domesticated — Pilgrim Life at Sea — " Horse-Billiards " — The "Synagogue" — The Writing School — Jack's "Journal" — The "Q. C. Club" — The Magic Lantern— State Ball on Deck— Mock Trials- Charades — Pilgrim Solemnity — Slow Music — The Executive Officer Delivers an Opinion 38

Chapter V

Summer in Mid- Atlantic — An Eccentric Moon — Mr. Blucher Loses Confidence — The Mystery of " Ship Time " — The Denizens of the Deep — " Land- Hol*' — The First Landing on a Foreign Shore — Sensation among the Natives — Something about the Azores Islands- -Blucher's Disastrous Dinner — The Happy Result 47

Chapter VI

Solid Information — A Fossil Community — Curious "Ways and Customs— Jesuit Humbuggery — Fantastic Pilgrimizing — Origin of the Russ Pavement — Squaring Accounts with the Fossils — At Sea Again 55

Chapter VII

A Tempest at Night — Spain and Africa on Exhibition — Greeting a Majestic Stranger — The Pillars of Hercules — The Rock of Gibraltar — Tiresome Repetition — " The Queen's Chair " — Serenity Conquered — Curiosities of the Secret Caverns — Personnel of Gibraltar — Some Odd Characters — A Private Frolic in Africa — Bearding a Moorish Garrison (without loss of life) — Vanity Rebuked — Disembarking in the Empire of Morocco Contents. XII

Chapter VIII. Paok

The Ancient City of Tangier, Morocco— Strange Sights— A Cradle of Antiquity—We become Wealthy— How they Rob the Mail in Africa — The Danger of being Opulent in Morocco *">

Chapter IX

A Pilgrim in Deadly Peril — How they Mended the Clock — Moorish Punishments for Crime — Marriage Customs — Looking Several ways for Sunday — Shrewd Practice of Mohammedan Pilgrims — Reverence for Cats — Bliss of being a Consul-General 83

Chapter X

Fourth of July at Sea — Mediterranean Sunset — The " Oracle " is Delivered of an Opinion — Celebration Ceremonies — The Captain's Speech — France in Sight — The Ignorant Native — In Marseilles— Another Blunder — Lost in the Great City — Found Again — A Frenchy Scene 90

Chapter XI

Getting "Used to it " — Xo Soap — Bill of Fare, Table d'hote — "An American Sir!" — A Curious Discovery — The "Pilgrim" Bird — Strange Companionship — A Grave of the Living — A Long Captivity — Some of Dumas' Heroes — Dungeon ofthe Famous "Iron Mask." 98

Chapter XII

A Holiday Flight through France — Summer Garb of the Landscape — Abroad on the Great Plains — Peculiarities of French Cars — French Politeness — American Railway Officials — " Twenty Mouses to Dinner 1" — Why there are no Accidents— The "Old Travellers" — Still on the Wing — Paris at Last — French Order and Quiet — Place of the Bastile — Seeing the Sights — A Barbarous Atrocity — Absurd Billiards 105

Chapter XIII

More Trouble — Monsieur Billfinger — Re-Christening the Frenchman — In the Clutches of a Paris Guide — The International Exposition — Fine Military Review — Glimpse of the Emperor Napoleon and the Sultan of Turkey 118 CHAPTER XrV. The Venerable Cathedral of Notre-Dame — Jean Sanspeur's Addition — Treasures and Sacred Relics — The Legend of the Cross — The Morgue — The Outrageous Can- Can — Blondin Aflame — The Louvre Palace — The Great Park — Showy Pageantry — Preservation of Noted Things 130

Chapter XV

French National Burying-Ground — Among the Great Dead — The Shrine of Disappointed Love — The Story of Abelard and Heloise — " English Spoken Here" — " American Drinks Compounded Here " — Imperial Honors to an American — The Over-estimated Grisette — Departure from Paris — A Deliberate Opinion Concerning the Comeliness of American Women 139

Chapter XVI

Versailles — Paradise Regained — A Wonderful Park — Paradise Lost — Napoleonic Strategy , _ . 15 Contents. XIII

Chapter XVII. Page

War — The American Forces Victorious — " Home Again " — Italy in Sight — The " City of Palaces " — Beauty of the Genoese Women — The " Stub- Hunters " — Among the Palaces — Gifted Guide — Church Magnificence — " Women not Admitted " — How the Genoese Live — Massive Architecture — A Scrap of Ancient History — Graves for 60,000 159

Chapter XVIII

Flying Through Italy — Marengo — First Glimpse of the Famous Cathedral — Description of some of its Wonders — A Horror Carved in Stone — An Unpleasant Adventure — A Good Man — A Sermon from the Tomb — Tons of Gold and Silver — Some More Holy Relics — Solomon's Temple Rivalled 171

Chapter XIX

"Do Vou Wis zo Haut can be? " — La Scala — Petrarch and Laura — Lucrezia Borgia — Ingenious Frescoes — Ancient Roman Amphitheatre — A Clever Delusion — Distressing Billiards — The Chief Charm of European Life — An Italian Bath — Wanted : Soap — Crippled French — Mutilated English — The Most Celebrated Painting in the World — Amateur Raptures — Uninspired Critics — Anecdote — A Wonderful Echo — A Kiss for a Franc 183

Chapter XX

Rural Italy by Rail — Fumigated, According to Law — The Sorrowing Englishman — Night by the Lake of Como — The Famous Lake — Its Scenery — Como compared with Tahoe — Meeting a Shipmate 199

Chapter XXI

The Pretty Lago di Lecco — A Carriage Drive in the Country — Astonishing Sociability in a Coachman — A Sleepy Land — Bloody Shrines — The Heart and Home of Priestcraft — A Thrilling Mediæval Romance — The Birthplace of Harlequin — Approaching Venice 207

Chapter XXII

Night in Venice — The " Gay Gondolier " — The Grand Fete by Moonlight — The Notable Sights of Venice — The Mother of the Republics Desolate 217

Chapter XXIII

The Famous Gondola — The Gondola in an Unromantic Aspect — The Great Square of St. Mark and the Winged Lion — Snobs, at Home and Abroad — Sepulchres of the Great Dead — A Tilt at the " Old Masters " — A Contraband Guide — The Conspiracy — Moving Again .. 228

Chapter XXIV

Down Through Italy by Rail — Idling in Florence — Dante and Galileo — An Ungrateful City — Dazzling Generosity — Wonderful Mosaics — The Historical Arno — Lost Again — Found Again, but no Fatted Calf Ready — The Leaning Tower of Pisa — The Ancient Duomo — The Old Original First Pendulum that Ever Swung — An Enchanting Echo — A New Holy Sepulchre — A Relic of Antiquity — A Fallen Republic — At Leghorn — At Home Again, and Satisfied, on Board the Ship — Our Vessel an pbject of Grave Suspicion — Gen. Garibaldi Visited — Threats of Quarantine Contents. PAGE 255 266 327

Chapter XXV

The Works of Bankruptcy — Railway Grandeur — How to Fill an Empty Treasury — The Sumptuousness of Mother Church — Ecclesiastical Splendor — Magnificence and Misery — General Execration — More Magnificence — A Good Word for the Priests — Civita Vecchia the Dismal — Off for Rome

Chapter XXVI

The Modern Roman on His Travels — The Grandeur of St. Peter's — Holy Relics — Grand View from the Dome — The Holy Inquisition — Interesting Old Monkish Frauds — The Ruined Coliseum — The Coliseum in the Days of its Prime — Ancient Play-bill of a Coliseum Performance — A Roman Newspaper Criticism 1700 Tears Old

Chapter XXVII

'Butchered to Make a Roman Holiday" — The Man who Never Complained — An Exasperating Subject — Asinine Guides — The Roman Catacombs — The Saint Whose Fervor Burst his Ribs — The Miracle of the Bleeding Heart— The Legend of Ara Cœli 284

Chapter XXVIII

Picturesque Horrors — The Legend of Brother Thomas — Sorrow Scientifically Analyzed — A Festive Company of the Dead — Tlie Great Vatican Museum — Artist Sins of Omission — The Rape of the Sabines — Papal Protectiou of Art — High Price of " Old Masters " — Improved Scripture — Scale of Rank of the Holy Personages in Rome — Scale of Honors Accorded Them — Fossilizing — Away for Naples 298

Chapter XXIX

Naples — In Quarantine at Last — Annunciation — Ascent of Mount Vesuvius — A Two-Cent Community — The Black Side of Neapolitan Character — Monkish Miracles — Ascent of Mount Vesuvius Continued — The Stranger and the Hackman — Night View of Naples from the Mountain-side — Ascent of Vesuvius Continued 308

Chapter XXX

Ascent of Vesuvius Continued — Beautiful View at Dawn — Less Beautiful View in the Back Streets — Ascent of Vesuvius Continued — Dwellings a Hundred Feet High — A Motley Procession — Bill of Fare for a Pedler's Breakfast — Princely Salaries — Ascent of Vesuvius Continued — An Average of Prices — The Wonderful " Blue Grotto " — Visit to Celebrated Localities in the Bay of Naples — The Poisoned " Grotto of the Dog " — A Petrified Sea of Lava — The Ascent Continued — The Summit Reached — Description of the Crater — Descent of Vesuvius 315

Chapter XXXI

The Buried City of Pompeii — How Dwellings Appear that have been Unoccupied for Eighteen Hundred Tears — The Judgment Seat — Desolation — The Footprints of the Departed — "No Women Admitted" — Theatres, Bake-shops, Schools, etc. — Skeletons Preserved by the Ashes and Cinders — The Brave Martyr to Duty — Rip Van Winkle — The Perishable Nature of Fame Content***.. XV

Chapter XXXII. Page

At Sea Once More — The Pilgrims all Well— Superb Stromboli— Sicily by Moonlight — Scylla and Charybdis — The " Oracle " at Fault — Skirting the Isles of Greece — Ancient Athens — Blockaded by Quarantine and Refused Permission to Enter — Running the Blockade — A Bloodless Midnight Adventure — Turning Robbers from Necessity — Attempt to Carry the Acropolis by Storm — We Fail — Among the Glories of the Past; — A World of Ruined Sculpture — A Fairy Vision — Famous Localities — Retreating in Good Order — Captured by the Guards — Travelling in Military State — Safe on Board Again 337 CHAPTER XXXnL Modern Greece — Fallen Greatness — Sailing Through the Archipelago and the Dardanelles — Footprints of History — The First Shoddy Contractor of whom History gives any Account — Anchored Before Constantinople — Fantastic Fashions — The Ingenious Goose-Rancher — Marvellous Cripples — The Great Mosque — The Thousand and One Columns — The Grand Bazaar of Stamboul ,. 354

Chapter XXXIV

Scarcity of Morals and "Whiskey — Slave-Girl Market Report — Commercial Morality at a Discount — The Slandered Dogs of Constantinople — Questionable Delights of Newspaperdom in Turkey — Ingenious Italian Journalism — No More Turkish Lunches Desired — The Turkish Bath Fraud — The Narghileh Fraud — Jackplaned by a Native — The Turkish Coffee Fraud ..,.. 368

Chapter XXXV

Sailing Through the Bosporus and the Black Sea — " Far- Away Moses " — Melancholy Sebastopol — Hospitably Received in Russia — Pleasant English People — Desperate Fighting — Relic Hunting — How Travellers Form " Cabinets " 381

Chapter XXXVI

Nine Thousand Miles East — Imitation American Town in Russia — Gratitude that Came Too Late — To Visit the Autocrat of All the Russias 387 CHARTER XXXVII. Summer Home of Royalty — Practising for the Dread Ordeal — Committee on Imperial Address — Reception by the Emperor and Family — Dresses of the Imperial Party — Concentrated Power — Counting the Spoons — At the Grand Duke's — A Charming Villa — A Knightly Figure — The Grand Duchess — A Grand Ducal Breakfast — Baker's Boy, the Famine-Breeder — Theatrical Monarchs a Fraud — Saved as by Fire — The Governor-General's Visit to the Ship — Official "Style " — Aristocratic Visitors — "Munchausenizing " with Them — Closing Ceremonies 390

Chapter Xxxviii

Return to Constantinople — We Sail for Asia — The Sailors Burlesque the Imperial Visitors — Ancient Smyrna — The " Oriental Splendor " Fraud — The " Biblical Crown of Life " — Pilgrim Prophecy-Savans — Sociable Armenian Girls — A Sweet Reminiscence — "The Camels are Coming, Ha-ha I " Contents.

Chapter XXXIX

pAGI Smyrna's Lions— The Martyr Polycarp— The " Seven Churches —Remains of the Six Smyrnas— Mysterious Oyster Mine— Oysters Seeking beenery— A Millerite Tradition— A Railroad Out of its Sphere ■*"-

Chapter XL

Journeying Toward Ancient Ephesus— Ancient Ayassalook— The Villanous Donkey— A Fantastic Procession— Bygone Magnificence— Fragments of History — The Legend of the Seven Sleepers *18

Chapter XLI

Vandalism Prohibited — Angry Pilgrims — Approaching Holy Landl — The " Shrill Note of Preparation — Distress About Dragomans and Transportation — The "Long Route" Adopted — In Syria — Something about Beirout -A Choice Specimen of a Greek " Ferguson " — Outfits — Hideous Horseflesh—Pilgrim " Style "—What of Aladdin's Lamp? 430 CHAPTER XLH. "Jacksonville," in the Mountains of Lebanon — Breakfasting above a Grand Panorama — The Vanished City — The Pecuhar Steed, " Jericho " — The Pilgrim's Progress — Bible Scenes — Mount Hermon, Joshua's Battle- Fields, etc.— The Tomb of Noah— A Most Unfortunate People 438

Chapter XLIII

Patriarchal Customs — Magnificent Baalbec — Description of the Ruins — Scribbling Smiths and Joneses — Pilgrim Fidelity to the Letter ofthe Law — The Revered Fountain of Baalam's Ass 445

Chapter XLIV

Extracts from Note-Book — Mahomet's Paradise and the Bible's — Beautiful Damascus, the Oldest City on Earth — Oriental Scenes within the Curious Old City— Damascus Street Car — The Story of St. Paul— The "Street called Straight " — Mahomet's Tomb and St. George's — The Christian Massacre — Mohammedan Dread of Pollution — The House of Naaman — The Horrors of Leprosy 454

Chapter XLV

The Cholera by way of Variety — Hot — Another Outlandish Procession — Penand-ink Photograph of "Jonesborough," Syria — Tomb of Nimrod, the Mighty Hunter — The Stateliest Ruin of All — Stepping over the Borders of Holy Land — Bathing in the Sources of Jordan — More " Specimen "- Hunting — Ruins of Cesarea-Philippi — " On This Rock Will I Build my Church "—The People the Disciples Knew— The Noble Steed " Baalbec " — Sentimental Horse Idolatry of the Arabs 465 CHAPTER XLVT. Dan — Bashan — Genessaret — A Notable Panorama — Smallness of Palestine Scraps of History — Character of the Country — Bedouin Shepherds Glimpses of the Hoary Past — Mr. Grimes's Bedouins — A Battle-Ground of Joshua — That Soldier's Manner of Fighting — Barak's Battle The Necessity of Unlearning Some Things — Desolation _.no Contents. XVII 551 558

Chapter XLVII

Jack's Adventure— Joseph's Pit — The Story of Joseph — Joseph's Magnanimity and Esau's — The Sacred Lake of Genessaret — Enthusiasm of the Pilgrims — Why We did not Sail on Galilee — About Capernaum — Concerning the Saviour's Brothers and Sisters — Journeying toward Magdala 488

Chapter XLVIII

Curious Specimens of Art and Architecture — Public Reception of the Pilgrims — Mary Magdalen's House — Tiberias and its Queer Inhabitants — The Sacred Sea of Galilee — Galilee by Night 503

Chapter XLIX

Tho Ancient Baths — Ye Apparition — A Distinguished Panorama — The Last Battle of the Crusades — The Story of the Lord of Kerak — Mount Tabor — What one Sees from its Top — A Memory of a Wonderful Garden — The House of Deborah the Prophetess 51-1

Chapter L

Toward Nazareth — Bitten By a Camel — Grotto of the Annunciation, Nazareth — Noted Grottoes in General — Joseph's Workshop — A Sacred Bowlder — The Fountain of the Virgin — Questionable Female Beauty — Literary Curiosities 525

Chapter LI

The Boyhood of the Saviour — Unseemly Antics of Sober Pilgrims — Home of the Witch of Endor — Nain — Profanation — A Popular Oriental Picture — Biblical Metaphors Becoming steadily More Intelligible — The Shunem Miracle — The " Free Son of The Desert " — Ancient Jezreel — Jehu's Achievements — Samaria and its Famous Siege 537

Chapter LII

A Curious Remnant of the Past — Shechem — The Oldest " First Family " on Earth — The Oldest Manuscript Extant — The Genuine Tomb of Joseph — Jacob's Well — Shiloh — Camping with the Arabs — Jacob's Ladder — More Desolation — Ramah, Beroth, the Tomb of Samuel, the Fountain of Beira — Impatience — Approaching Jerusalem — The Holy City in Sight — Noting its Prominent Features — Domiciled Within the Sacred Walls

Chapter LIII

" The Joy of the Whole Earth " — Description of Jerusalem — Church of the Holy Sepulchre — The Stone of Unction — The Grave of Jesus — Graves of Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea — Places of the Apparition — The Finding of the Three Crosses — The Legend — Monkish Impostures — The Pillar of Flagellation— The Place of a Relic— Godfrey's Sword—" The Bonds of Christ " — " The Center of the Earth " — Place whence the Dust was taken of which Adam was Made — Grave of Adam — The Martyred Soldier — The Copper Plate that was On the Cross — The Good St. Helena — Place of the Division of the Garments — St. Dimas, the Penitent Thief — The Late Emperor Maximilian's Contribution — Grotto wherein the Crosses were Found, and the Nails, and the Crown of Thorns — Chapel of the Mocking — Tomb of Melchizedek — Graves of Two Renowned Crusaders — The Place of the Crucifixion Contents.

Chapter LIV. Page

The " Sorrowful Way " — The Legend of St. Veronica's Handkerchief — An Illustrious Stone — House of the Wandering Jew — The Tradition of the Wanderer — Solomon's Temple — Mosque of Omar — Moslem Traditions — " Women not Admitted " — The Fate of a Gossip — Turkish Sacred Relies — Judgment Seat of David and Saul — Genuine Precious Remains of Solomon's Temple— Surfeited with Sights — The Pool of Siloam— The Garden of Gethsemane and Other Sacred Localities 574

Chapter LV

Rebellion in the Camp — Charms of Nomadic Life — Dismal Rumors — En Route for Jericho and The Dead Sea — Pilgrim Strategy — Bethany and the Dwelling of Lazarus — "Bedouins!" — Ancient Jericho — Misery — The Night March — The Dead Sea — An Idea of What a "Wilderness " in Palestine is — The Holy Hermits of Mars Saba — Good St. Saba — Women not Admitted — Buried from the World for all Time — Unselfish Catholic Benevolence — Gazelles — The Plain of the Shepherds — Birthplace of the Saviour, Bethlehem — Church of the Nativity— Its Hundred Holy Places — The Famous " Milk " Grotto — Tradition — Return to Jerusalem — Exhausted. . . . 586

Chapter LVI

Departure from Jerusalem — Samson — The Plain of Sharon — Arrival at Joppa — House of Simon the Tanner — The Long Pilgrimage Ended — Character of Palestine Scenery — The Curse 604

Chapter LVII

The Happiness of being at Sea once more — "Home" as it is in a Pleasure- Ship — "Shaking Hands" with the Vessel — Jack in Costume — His Father's Parting Advice — Approaching Egypt — Ashore in Alexandria — A Deserved Compliment for the Donkeys — Invasion of tlie Lost Tribes of America — End of the Celebrated "Jaffa Colony " — Scenes in Grand Cairo— Shepheard's Hotel Contrasted with a Certain American Hotel — Preparing for the Pyramids 609

Chapter LVIII

"Recherche " Donkeys — A Wild Ride — Specimeus of Egyptian Modesty — Moses in the Bulrushes— Place where the Holy Family Sojourned — Distant view of the Pyramids — A Nearer View — The Ascent — Superb View from the top of the Pyramid — " Backsheesh ! Backsheesh I " — An Arab Exploits — In the Bowels of the Pyramid— Strategy — Reminiscence of "Holiday's Hill"— Boyish Exploit — The Majestic Sphynx — Things the Author will not Tell — Grand Old Egypt. 618