Following the Equator. A journey around the world

Front matter

FOLLOWING THE EQUATOR A JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD BY MARK TWAIN SAMUEL L. CLEMENS HARTFORD NEW YORK AMERICAN PUBLISHING CO. DOUBLEDAY & McCLURE CO. MDCCCXCVII COPYRIGHT iSg? BY OUVIA L. CLEMENS (ALL RIGHTS RESERVED! THIS BOOK Us affectionatelg Knecrtbeo to MA' YOUNG FRIEND HARRY ROGERS, WITH RECOGNITION OF AVHAT HE IS, AND APPREHENSION OF AA'HAT HE MAT BECOME UNLESS HE FORM HIMSELF A LITTLE MORE CLOSELY UPON THE MODEL OF The Author. THE PUDD'NHEAT) MAXIMS. THESE WISDOMS ARE FOR THE LURING OF YOUTH TOWARD HIGH MORAL ALTITUDES. THE AUTHOR DID NOT GATHER THEM FROM PRACTICE, BUT FROM OBSERVATION. TO BE GOOD IS NOBLE ; BUT TO SHOW OTHERS HOW TO BE GOOD IS NOBLER AND NO TROUBLE. CONTENTS - - .

Chapter I

The Party — Across America to Vancouver — On Board the Warrimo — Steamer Chairs — The Captain — Going Home under a Cloud — A Gritty Purser — The Brightest Passenger — Remedy for Bad Habits — The Doctor and the Lumbago — A Moral Pauper — Limited Smoking — Remittance-men .... 25

Chapter II

Change of Costume — Fish, Snake, and Boomerang Stories — Tests of Memory — A Brahmin Expert — General Grant's Memory — A Delicately Improper Tale 35

Chapter III

Honolulu — Reminiscences of the SandAvich Islands — King Liholiho and His Royal Equipment — The Tabu — The Population of the Island — A Kanaka Diver — Cholera at Honolulu — Honolulu, Past and Present — The Leper Colony 48

Chapter IV

Leaving Honolulu — Flying-fish — Approaching the Equator — Why the Ship Went SIoav — The Front Yard of the Ship — Crossing the Equator — Horse Billiards or Shovel Board — The Waterbury AA'atch — AA'ashing Decks — Ship Painters — The Great Meridian — The Loss of a Day — A Babe without a Birthday 05

Chapter V

A Lesson in Pronunciation — ReA'erenee for Robert Burns — The Southern Cross — Troublesome Constellations — Victoria for a Name — Islands on the Map — Alofa and Fortuna — Recruiting for the Queensland Plantations — Captain AA'arren's Note- Book — Recruiting not thoroughly Popular CONTENTS. 8

Chapter VI

Missionaries Obstruct Business — The Sugar Planter and the Kanaka — The Planter's View — Civilizing the Kanaka — The Missionary's View — The Result — Repentant Kanakas — Wrinkles — The Death Rate in Queensland 83

Chapter VII

The Fiji Islands — StiA'a — The Ship from Duluth — Going Ashore — MidAvinter in Fiji — Seeing the GoA'ernor — A\*hy Fiji was Ceded to England — Old time Fijians — Convicts among the Fijians — A Case AA'here Marriage Avas a Failure — Immortality Avith Limitations 91

Chapter VIII

A Wilderness of Islands — Two Men Avithout a Country — A Naturalist from New Zealand — The Fauna of Australasia — Animals, Insects, and Birds — The Ornithorhyncus — Poetry and Plagiarism 99

Chapter IX

Close to Australia — Porpoises at Night — Entrance to Sydney Harbor — The Loss of the Duncan Dunbar — The Harbor — The City of Sydney — Spring-time in Australia — The Climate — Information for Travelers — The Size of Australia — A Dust- Storm and Hot Wind 109

Chapter X

The DiscoA'ery of Australia — Transportation of Convicts — Discipline — English La aas. Ancient and Modern — Flogging Prisoners to Death — Arrival of Settlers — New South AVales Corps — Rum Currency — Intemperance EveryAvhere — $100,000 for One Gallon of Rum — Development of the Country — Immense Resources 110

Chapter XI

Hospitality of English-speaking People — Writers and their Gratitude — Mr. Gane aud the Panegyrics — Population of Sydney — An English City Avith American Trimming — "Squatters" — Palaces and Sheep Kingdoms — Wool and Mutton — Australians and Americans — Costermonger Pronunciation — England is " Home" — Table Talk — English and Colonial Audiences 124

Chapter XII

Mr. X., a Missionary — Why Christianity Makes SIoav Progress in India — A Large Dream — Hindoo Miracles and Legends — Sampson and Hanuman — The Sandstone Ridge — AVhere are the Gates? CONTENTS. 9

Chapter XIII

Public Works in Australasia — Botanical Garden of Sydney — Four Special Socialties — The Government House — A Governor and His Functions — The Admiralty House — The Tour of the Harbor — Shark Fishing — Cecil Rhodes' Shark and his First. Fortune — Free Board for Sharks 137

Chapter XIV

Bad Health — To Melbourne by Rail — Maps Defective — The Colony of Victoria — A Round-trip Ticket from Sydney — Change Cars, from Wide to Narrow Gauge, a Peculiarity at Albury — Customs-fences — "My Word" — The Blue Mountains — ■ Rabbit Piles — GoA'ernment R. R. Restaurants — Duchesses for AVaiters — ' ' Sheep-dip " — Railroad Coffee — Things Seen and Not, Seen 151

Chapter XV

Wagga-Wagga — The Tichborne Claimant — A Stock Mystery — The Plan of the Romance — The Realization — The Henry Bascom Mystery — Bascom Hall — The Author's Death and Funeral 156

Chapter XVI

Melbourne and its Attractions — The Melbourne Cup Races — Cup Day — Great CroAvds — Clothes Regardless of Cost — The Australian Larrikin — Is He Dead ? — Australian Hospitality — Melbourne Wool-brokers — The Museums — The Palaces — The Origin of Melbourne Kil

Chapter XVII

The British Empire — Its Exports and Imports — The Trade of Australia — To Adelaide — Broken Hill Silver Mine — A Roundabout road — The Scrub and its Possibilities for the Novelist — The Aboriginal Tracker — A Test Case — Hoav Does One Cow-Track Differ from Another ? 170

Chapter XVIII

The Gum Trees — l*nsociable Trees — Gorse and Broom — A Universal Defect— An AdA'enturer — Wanted £200, got £20,- 000,000 — A Vast Land Scheme — The Smash-up — The Corpse Got Up and Danced — A L'nique Business by One Man — Buying the Kangaroo Skin — The Approach to Adelaide — ■ Everything Comes to Him avIio Waits — A Healthy Religious Atmosphere — AVhat is the Matter Avith the Specter? .... CONTEXTS.

Chapter XIX

The Botanical Gardens — Contributions from all Countries — The Zoological Gardens of Adelaide, — The Laughing Jackass — The Dingo — A Misnamed Province — Telegraphing from Melbourne to San Francisco — A Mania for Holidays — The Temperature — The Death Rate — Celebration of the Reading of the Proclamation of 1836 — Some old Settlers at the Commemoration — Their Staying Powers — The Intelligence of the Aboriginal — The Antiquity of the Boomerang . . . . 184

Chapter XX

A Caller — A Talk about Old Times — The Fox Hunt — An Accurate Judgment of an Idiot — Hoav We Passed the Custom Officers in Italy 195

Chapter XXI

The " AVeet-AVeet " — Keeping down the Population — Victoria — Killing the Aboriginals — Pioneer Days in Queensland — Material for a Drama — The Bush — Pudding Avith Arsenic — Revenge — A Right Spirit but a AA'rong Method — Death of Donga Billy 206

Chapter XXII

Continued Description of Aboriginals — Manly Qualities — Dodging Balls — Feats of Spring — Jumping — AA*here the Kangaroo Learned its Art — Well Digging — Endurance — Surgery — Artistic Abilities — Fennimore Cooper's Last Chance — Australian Slang 214

Chapter XXIII

To Horsham (Colony of Victoria) — Description of Horsham — At the Hotel — Pepper Tree — The Agricultural College, Forty Pupils — High Temperature — Width of Road in Chains, Perches, etc. — The Bird with a Forgetable Name — The Magpie and the Lady — Fruit. Trees — Soils — Sheep Shearing — To StaAA'ell — Gold Mining Country — $75,000 per Month Income and able to Keep House — Fine Grapes and AVine — The Dryest Community on Earth — The Three Sisters — Gum Trees and AVater . . . 223

Chapter XXIV

Road to Ballarat — The City— Great Gold Strike, 1851 — Rush for Australia — "Great Nuggets" — Taxation — Revolt, and Victory — Peter Lalor and the Eureka Stockade — "Pencil Mark" — Fine Statuary at Ballarat — Population — Ballarat English CONTENTS. 11

Chapter XXV

Bound for Bendigo — The Priest at Castlemaine — Time SaA'ed by Walking — Description of Bendigo — A Valuable Nugget — Perseverence and Success — Mr. Blank and His Influence — Conveyance of an Idea — I Had to Like the Irishman — Corrigan Castle, and the Mark Twain Club — My Bascom Mystery Solved 241

Chapter XXVI

Where NeAv Zealand Is — But Few Know — Things People Think They Know — The Yale Professor and His Visitor from N. Z. 251

Chapter XXVII

The South Pole Swell — Tasmania — Extermination of the NatiA'es — The Picture Proclamation — The Conciliator — The Formidable Sixteen 256

Chapter XXVIII

When the Moment Comes the Man Appears — AA*hy Ed. Jackson called on Commodore Vanderbilt — Their IntervieAV — Welcome to the Child of His Friend — A Big Time but under Inspection — Sent on Important Business — A Visit to the Boys on the Boat 268

Chapter XXIX

Tasmania, Early Days — Description of the Toaa'ii of Hobart — An Englishman's Love of Home Surroundings — Neatest City on Earth — The Museum — A Parrot with an Acquired Taste — Glass Arrow Beads — Refuge for the Indigent too healthy . . 279

Chapter XXX

Arrival at Bluff, N. Z.— Where the Rabbit Plague Began — The Natural Enemy of tlie Rabbit — Dunedin — A Lovely Toavii — A Visit, to Dr. Hockin — His Museum — A Liquified Caterpiller — The Unperfected Tape AA'orm — The Public Museum and Picture Gallery 285

Chapter XXXI

The Express Train — "A Hell of a Hotel at Maryborough " — Clocks and Bells — Railroad Service 290

Chapter XXXII

Description of the Town of Christ Church — A Fine Museum — Jade-stone Trinkets — The Great Moa — The First Maori in XeAV Zealand — AVomen Voters — "Person" in Xew Zealand LaAv CONTENTS. Includes Woman — Taming an Ornithorhyncus — A A'oyage in the Flora from Lyttelton — Cattle Stalls for Everybody — A Wonderful Time 297

Chapter XXXIII

The Town of Nelson— "The Mongatapu Murders," the Great Event of the Town — Burgess' Confession — Summit, of Mount Eden — Rotorua and the Hot Lakes and Geysers — Thermal Springs District — Kauri Gum — Tangariwa Mountains . . 305

Chapter XXXIV

The Bay of Gisborne — Taking in Passengers by the Yard Arm — The Green Ballarat Fly — False Teeth — From Napier to Hastings by the Ballarat Fly Train — Kauri Trees — A Case of Mental Telegraphy 312

Chapter XXXV

Fifty Miles in Four Hours — Comfortable Cars — Town of AA'auganui — Plenty of Maoris — On the Increase — Compliments to the Maoris — The Missionary Ways all Wrong — The Tabu among the Maoris — A Mysterious Sign — Curious AA*ar-monuments — AArellington 318

Chapter XXXVI

The Poems of Mrs. Moore — The Sad Fate of William Upson — A Fellow Traveler Imitating the Prince of Wales — A Would-be Dude — Arrival at, Sydney — Curious Town Names with Poem 324

Chapter XXXVII

From Sydney for Ceylon — A Lascar Crew, — A Fine Ship — Three Cats and a Basket, of Kittens — Dinner Conversations — Veuve Cliquot Wine — At Anchor in King George's Sound Albany Harbor — More Cats — A Vulture on Board — Nearing the Equator again — Dressing for Dinner — Ceylon, Hotel Bristol — Servant Brampy — A Feminine Man — Japanese Jinriksha or Cart — Scenes in Ceylon — A Missionary School — Insincerity of Clothes 331

Chapter Xxxviii

Steamer Rosetta to Bombay — Limes 14 cents a Barrel — Bombay, a BeAvitching City — Descriptions of People and Dress — Woman as a Road Decoration — India, the Land of Dreams and Romance — Fourteen Porters to Carry Baggage — Correcting a Servant — Killing a Slave — Arranging a Bedroom — Three Hours' Work and a Terrible Racket — The Bird of Birds, the Indian Ctoav CONTENTS. 13

Chapter XXXIX

God Vishnu, 108 Names — Change of Titles or Hunting for an Heir — Bombay as a Kaleidoscope — The Native's Man Ser- A'ant — Servants' Recommendations — How Manuel got his Name and his English — Satan — A Visit from God . . . 357

Chapter XL

The Government House at Malabar Point — Mansion of Kumar Shri Samatsin Hji Bahadur — The Indian Princess — A Difficult Game — Wardrobe and Jewels — Ceremonials — Decorations when Leaving — The Towers of Silence — A Funeral . 369

Chapter XLI

A Jain Temple — Mr. Roychand's Bungalow — A Decorated Six- Gun Prince — Human Fireworks — European Dress, Past and Present — Complexions — Advantages with the Zulu — Festivities at the Bungalow — Nautch Dancers — Entrance of the Prince — Address to the Prince 379

Chapter XLII

A Hindoo Betrothal, midnight, Sleepers on the ground, Home of the Bride of Twelve Years Dressed as a Boy — Illumination — Nautch Girls — Imitating Snakes — Later — Illuminated Porch Filled with Sleepers — The Plague 386

Chapter XLIII

Murder Trial in Bombay — Confidence Swindlers — Some Specialties of India — The Plague, Juggernaut, Suttee, etc. — Everything on Gigantic Scale — India First in EA'erything — 80 States, more Custom Houses than Cats — Rich Ground for Thug Society 392

Chapter XLIV

Official Thug Book — Supplies for Traveling, Bedding, and other Freight — Scene at Railway Station — Making Way for White Man — Waiting Passengers, High and Loav Caste, Touch in the Cars — Our Car — Beds made up — Dreaming of Thugs — Baroda — Meet Friends — Indian Well — The Old Town — Narrow Streets — A Mad Elephant 400

Starting for Allahabad — Lower Berths in Sleepers — Elderly Ladies have Preference of Berths — An American Lady Takes One Anyhow — Hoav Smythe Lost his Berth — How He Got Even — The Suttee 417

Chapter XLIX

Pyjamas — Day Scene in India — Clothed in a Turban and a Pocket Handkerchief — Land Parceled Out — Established Village Servants — Witches in Families — Hereditary Midwifery — Destruction of Girl Babies — AA'edding Display— Tiger-Persuader — Hailstorm Discourager — The Tyranny of the Sweeper — Elephant Driver — Water Carrier — Curious RiA'ers — Arrival at Allahabad — English Quarter — Lecture Hall Like a Siioavstorm — Private Carriages — A Milliner — Early Morning — The Squatting Servant — A Religious Fair 459

Chapter L

On the Road to Benares — Dust and Waiting — The Bejeweled CroAA'd — A NatiA'e Prince and his Guard — Zenana Lady — The Extremes of Fashion — The Hotel at Benares — An Anuex a Mile AAvay — Doors in India — The Peepul Tree — AA*arning against Cold Baths — A Strange Fruit — Description of Benares — The Beginning of Creation — Pilgrims to Benares — A Priest Avith a Good Business Stand — Protestant Missionary — The Trinity Brahma, Shiva, and Vishnu — Religion the Business at Benares 475

Chapter LI

Benares a Religious Temple — A Guide for Pilgrims to Save Time in Securing Salvation 4,S4

CHAPTER LIL

A Curious Way to Secure Salvation — The Banks of the Ganges — Architecture Represents Piety — A Trip on the River — Bathers and their Costumes — Drinking the Water — A Scientific Test of the Nasty Purifier — Hindoo Faith in .he Ganges — A Cre- CONTENTS. 15 mation — Remembrances of the Suttee — All Life Sacred Ex cept Human Life — The Goddess Bhowanee, and the Sacrifi cers — Sacred Monkeys — Ugly Idols Everywhere — Taa'o White Minarets — A Great View with a Monkey in it — A Picture on the Water 496 CHAPTER LIU. Still in Benares — Auother Living God — Why Things are Wonderful — Sri 108 — Utterly Perfect — How He Came so — Our Visit to Sri — A Friendly Diety — Exchanging Autographs and Books — Sri's Pupil — An Interesting Mail — Reverence and Irreverence — Dancing in a Sepulchre 507

CHAPTER LIV.

By Rail to Calcutta— Population — The "City of Palaces"— A Fluted Candlestick — Ochterlony — Newspaper Correspondence — AA'erage Knowledge of Countries — A Wrong Idea of Chicago — Calcutta and the Black Hole — Description of the Horrors — Those Who Lived — The Botanical Gardens — The Afternoon Turnout — Grand Review — Military Tournament — Excursion on the Hoogly — The Museum — What Winter Means in Calcutta 517

CHAPTER LV.

On the Road Again — Flannels in Order — Across Country — From Greenland's Icy Mountain — SAvapping CiAilization — Xo Field A\*omen in India — How it is in Other Countries — CanA'ascovered Cars — The Tiger Country — My First Hunt — Some Wild Elephants Get Away — The Plains of India — The Ghurkas — Women for Pack-Horses — A Substitute for a Cab — Darjeeling — The Hotel — The Highest Thing in the Himalayas — The Club — Kinchinjunga and Mt. Everest — Thibetans — The Prayer Wheel — People Going to the Bazar 524

CHAPTER LVI.

( )n the Road Again — The Hand-Car — A Thirty-five-mile Slide — The Banyan Tree — A Dramatic Performance — The Railroad Loop — The Half-Avay House — The Brain Fever Bird — The Coppersmith Bird — Nightingales and Cue OayIs 535

CHAPTER LVII.

India, the Most Extraordinary Country on Earth — Nothing Forgotten — The Land of AA'onders — Annual Statistics EveryAvhere about Violence — Tiger vs. Man — A Handsome Fight — Annual Man Killing and Tiger Killing — Other Animals — Snakes — Insurance and Snake Tables — The Cobra Bite — Muzaffur- CONTENTS. 16 pore — Dinapore — A Train that Stopped for Gossip — Six Hours for Thirty-five Miles — A Rupee to the Engineer — Ninety Miles an Hour — Again to Benares, the Piety Hive — To LucknoAV 544

CHAPTER LVIII.

The Great Mutiny — The Massacre in CaAvnpore — Terrible Scenes in Lucknow — The Residency — The Siege 549

CHAPTER LIX.

A Visit to the Residency — CaAvnpore — The Adjutant Bird and the Hindoo Corpse — The Taj Mahal — The True Conception — The Ice Storm — True Gems — Syrian Fountains — An Exaggerated Niagara 567

CHAPTER LX.

To Lahore — The Governor's Elephant — Taking a Ride — No Danger from Collision — Rawal Pindi — Back to Delhi — An Orientalized Englishman — Monkeys and the Paint-pot — Monkey Crying over my Note-book — Arrival at Jeypore — In Rajputana — Watching Servants — The Jeypore Hotel — Our Old and New Satan — Satan as a Liar — The Museum — A Street SIioav — Blocks of Houses — A Religious Procession 582

CHAPTER LXI.

Methods in American Deaf and Dumb Asylums — Methods in the Public Schools — A Letter from a Youth in Punjab — Highly Educated Service — A Damage to the Country — A Little Book from Calcutta — Writing Poor English — Embarrassed by a Beggar Girl — A Specimen Letter — An Application for Employment — A Calcutta School Examination — Tavo Samples of Literature 597

CHAPTER LXII.

Sail from Calcutta to Madras — Thence to Ceylon — Thence for Mauritius — The Indian Ocean — Our Captain's Peculiarity — The Scot Has One too — The Flying-fish that Went Hunting in the Field — Fined for Smuggling — Lots of Pets on Board — The Color of the Sea — The Most Important Member of Nature's Family — The Captain's Story of Cold Weather — Omissions in the Ship's Library — Washing Decks — Pyjamas on Deck — The Cat's Toilet — No Interest in the Bulletin — Perfect Rest — The Milky Way and the Magellan Clouds — Mauritius — Port Louis — A Hot Country — Under French Control — A Variety of People and Complexions — Train to Curepipe — A Wonder- CONTENTS. 17 ful Office-holder — The Wooden Peg Ornament — The Promi nent Historical Event of Mauritius — "Paul and Virginia" — One of Virginia's Wedding Gifts — Heaven Copied after Mau ritius — Early History of Mauritius — Quarantines — Population of all Kinds — What the World Consists of— Where Russia and Germany are — A Picture of Milan Cathedral — Newspapers — The Language — Best Sugar in the AVorld — Literature of Mauritius 609 CHAPTER LX1II.

Port Louis — Matches no Good — Good Roads— Death Notices — AVhy European Nations Rob Each Other — What Immigrants to Mauritius Do — Population — Labor Wages — The Camaron — The Palmiste and other Eatables — Monkeys — The Cyclone of 1892 — Mauritius a Sunday Landscape 622

CHAPTER LXIV.

The Steamer "Arundel Castle" — Poor Beds in Ships — The Beds in Noah's Ark — Getting a Rest in Europe — Ship in Sight — Mozambique Channel — The Engineer and the Band — Thackeray's " Madagascar " — Africanders Going Home — Singing on the After Deck — An Out-of-Place Story — Dynamite Explosion in Johannesburg — Entering Delagoa Bay — Ashore — A Hot Winter — Small ToAvn — No Sights — No Carriages — Working Women — Barnum's Purchase of Shakespeare's Birthplace, Jumbo, and the Nelson Monument — Arrival at Durban 630

CHAPTER LXV.

Royal Hotel Durban — Bells that Did not Ring — Early Inquiries for Comforts — Change of Temperature after Sunset — Rickshaws — The Hotel Chameleon — Natives not out after the Bell — Preponderance of Blacks in Natal — Hair Fashions in Natal — Zulus for Police — A DriA'e round the Berea — The Cactus and other Trees — Religion a Vital Matter — Peculiar Views about Babies — Zulu Kings — A Trappist Monastery — Transvaal Polities — Reasons why the Trouble came About . 644

CHAPTER LXVI.

Jameson over the Border — His Defeat and Capture — Sent to England for Trial — Arrest of Citizens by the Boers — Commuted Sentences — Final Release of all but Two — Interesting Days for a Stranger — Hard to Understand Either Side — What the Reformers Expected to Accomplish — How They Proposed to Do it — Testimonies a Year Later — A " Woman's Part " — The Truth of the South African Situation — "Jameson's Ride" — *f A Poem 654 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER LXVII.

Jameson's Raid — The Reform Committee's Difficult Task — Possible Plans — Advice that Jameson Ought to Have — The War of 1881 and its Lessons — Statistics of Losses of the Combatants — Jameson's Battles — Losses on Both Sides — The Military Errors — How the AYarfare Should Have Been Carried on to Be Successful 667 CHAPTER LXVI1I. Judicious Mr. Rhodes — What South Africa Consists of — Johannesburg — The Gold Mines — The Heaven of American Engineers — What tlic Author Knows about Mining — Description of the Boer — What Should be Expected of Him — What Was — A Dizzy Jump for Rhodes — Taxes — Rhodesian Method of Reducing Native Population — Journeying in Cape Colony — The Cars— The Country — The Weather — Tamed Blacks — Familiar Figures in King William's Town — Boer Dress — Boer Country Life — Sleeping Accommodations — The Reformers in Boer Prison — Torturing a Black Prisoner 686

CHAPTER LXIX.

u\n Absorbing Novelty — The Kimberley Diamond Mines — Discovery of Diamonds — The Wronged Stranger — Where the Gems Are— A Judicious Change of Boundary — Modern Machinery and Appliances — Thrilling Excitement in Finding a Diamond — Testing a Diamond — Fences — Deep Mining by Natives in the Compound — Stealing — Reward for the Biggest Diamond — uV Fortune in Wine — The Great Diamond — Office of tbe De Beer Co. — Sorting the Gems — Cape Town — The Most Imposing Man in British Provinces — Various Reasons for his Supremacy — How He Makes Friends 699 COXCLCSION. Table Rock — Table Bay — The Castle — GoA'ernment and Parliament — The Club — Dutch Alansions and their Hospitality — Dr. John Barry and his Doings — On the Ship Norman — Aladeira — Arrived in Southhampton IWGIWIONS BY Dan Beard, A. B. Frost, B. W. Clinedinst, Frederick Dielman, Peter Newell, F. M. Seinor, T. J. Fogarty, C. H. Warren, A. G. Reinhart, F. Berkeley Smith, C. Allan Gilbert.

The pttbliskers acknowledge the courtesy extended by Walter 17. Chase, Boston, Major J. B. Pond, New L'ork, and /■'. R. Reynolds, Manchester, England, in furnishing many of the photographs reproduced in this volume. PAGK 1 Portrait op Author (By Walter G. Chase). . . Frontispiece 2 They Passed in Revieav 24 3 Head Piece 25 4 EArEN the Gulls Smiled 26 5 " AVhen I avas a Youth," 32 6 The Remittance Man, 34 7 An Aavkavard Pause (FuU Page) 39 8 The Climax 43 9 " A\*E AA*ORKED UNTIL THREE," 47 10 Facsimile Page from the Author's Note-book, (Full Page) 49 11 Royal Equipments 53 12 Something Touched his Shoulder, . . (Full Page) 56 13 Watching for the Blue Ribbon, 66 14 The Blue Ribbon (Full I'ug,) 67 15 " Horse Billiards," 68 16 Diagram 68 17 I Beat Her Brains Out 72 18 A Day Off 74 19 Out of Repair 79 20 Southern Cross 80 21 The Kanaka's Departure 84 22 The Kanaka's Return, 85 23 A Civilized Savage, ... 90 24 Suva 92 25 Boats Came from Shore 93 26 Natives ILLUSTRATIONS; PAGE 27 In Town 94 28 Out of Town 94 29 The Rigors ok Winter 95 30 Off Goes His Head, (Full Page) 108 31 Was Never in the Ark 105 32 The Naturalist 108 33 View in Sydney Harbor 113 34 A Comparative Mai-, 116 35 A Dust Storm 118 36 New South Wales Coups 123 37 Heedless Man, 125 38 Squatter Life (Full Page) 127 3!)

A Difference 131 40 Hanuman Moving the Mountains, . . (Full Page) 135 41 Sydney's Four Entertainments, . . (Full /'age) 140 42 "Got it out of a Shark," (Full Page) 147 43 The Oddest Thing in Australasia 152 44 Things Not Seen 155 45 "Hello, Mark," (Full Fage) 166 46 Sunrise Blue Mountains, 169 47 The British Empire (Full Page) 171 48 A Test Case 175 49 "Here I am Yet," 178 50 "Not Wanted Here," . . 183 51 Laughing Jackass, 185 52 The White Man's World (Full Page) 187 53 The Old Settlers, (Full Page) 191 54 Adam at Practice 194 55 "Which Fox?" (Full Page) 198 56 "We Marched by the Crowd," . . . (Full Page) 203 57 Royal Letter, 205 58 The White Man's Appliances 208 59 The Usual Spirit, 211 60 His Place in Art, 218 61 "No Feeling In It," 220 62 An Aboriginal Athlete, 222 63 A Wide Space 224 64 The Three Sisters, 228 65 Ballarat Statuary, (•Fid' Page) 236 66 "Do You Remember that Trip?" . .

(Full Page) 240 67 All Through His Influence 243 68 The Club Badge 247 69 The Faculty Read Up, 251 70 The Scheme Worked, 253 71 "What Do You?" 254 72 "Close to Aus — " 254 73 He Looked Dazed, ......... ILLUSTRATIONS. 21 PAGE 74 The Governor's Proclamation, .... {Full Page) 258 75 The Last of Her Race (Full Page) 266 76 "Go 'avay from Here!" 274 77 Relics of Convict Discipline (Full Page) 278 78 Lake Manapouri 286 79 Monument to Maori Robber, 287 80 A Theological Student, . 292 81 Australian Bells 295 82 Carved Canoe Proav 298 83 Cattle Stalls on the Flora 303 84 A Change of Boats 304 85 Hot Springs and Geysers, (Full Page) 309 86 Protecting the Ladies, (Full Page) 313 87 Maori Women avith Feather Roues. ..... 319 88 Nose Rubbing, Form of Salutation 320 89 So Like the Prince, 327 90 Woolloomoolloo 330 91 What the Sailors Believe, ... .... 332 92 Servant Brompy (Full Page) 338 93 Abused Creatures, (FuU Page) 342 94 Suppressed Vanity 344 95 A. Road Decoration 347 96 Fourteen Followed (Full Page) 349 97 Oppressively Sociable 355 98 Indian Croay, 356 99 Manuel .... 362 100 "Satan see God Our," 368 101 Kumar Schri Samatsinii.ii Bahadur, 370 102 One of the Towers of Silence, . . .

(Full Page) 373 103 A Parsee 378 104 The Passers By 3K2 105 Midnight in a Bombay Street 387 106 A High-Priced Nautch Girl 388 107 Nautch Dancing 389 108. A Railway Station (FuU Page) 402 109 A Mad Season . (FuU Page) 409 110 Roadside Views 410 111 A Prize Winner 413 112 "Well, Sob, What Will you Haa'e," . . (FuU Page) 418 113 " He Had it Upside Doavn," .... . . 420 114 "You Don't say, Sir!" (Full Page) 423 115 He Lighted Me up the Stairs, 425 116 Smythe's Rea-enge 450 117 He Stole Blankets (Full Page) 458 118 A Street Sprinkler 463 119 A South African Styl::, . . 464 120 "It AYorried Me," ILLUSTRATIONS. 22 PAGE 121 A Religious Fair (Full Page) 472 122 Religious Fakeers 474 123 They Spoke of it avith Rapture 479 124 Do it Reverently, 485 125 The Well of Fate, (Full Page) 487 126 Considering the Matter, 493 127 Benares (Full Page) 495 128 The Purifying Waters of the Ganges, . .

(Full Page) 498 129 Extra Expense 501 130 AIonkey Antics 503 131 Page froai Bahadur's Book, 512 132 Title Page of Bahadurs Book 513 133 A Picinic in a Sepulchre 516 134 Mushy AVeather, .... 523 135 India 525 136 Austria, .... 526 137 France, 527 138 A Cab Substitute, '. . (Full Page) 531 139 Mt. KlNCHINJUNGA (Full Pug,) 533 140 The Prayer Wheel 534 141 We Played avith the Train, .... (Full Page) 537 142 The Loop (Full Page) 541 143 AVhere the AYomen and Children Lodged, . (Full Page) 559 144 The Bailie Guard Gate {Full Page) 563 145 AIouldering AIemorials, ... .... 565 146 Ruins of the Residency, (Full Page) 566 147 The Residency Gateavay (FuU Page) 568 148 An Exaggerated Niagara and the Taj, . (Full Page) 576 149 An Honest Critic . (Full Page) 585 150 City Gate —Jeypore (Full Page) 592 151 Sahadat Khan 593 152 Street Scene in Jeypore (Full rage) 595 153 " I avas Embarrassed," (FuU Page) 601 154 Types 608 155 A Female Uncle 610 156 A Cat Would Like that Place, (ill 157 "The Mate's Shadoav Froze to the Deck," .