Letters from the East

Front matter

a s .g fe p © P a. pa aa ta <! B Sh 3 h g U LETTERS FROM THE EAST. r.y JOHN CARNE, Esq. OF QUEEN'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE. LONDO N: HENRY COLBURN, NEW BURLINGTON STREET 1826. LONDON : PRINTED BY S. AND R. BENTLEY, DORSET STREET. TO SIR WALTER SCOTT, BART. THIS VOLUME IS, BY HIS PERMISSION, INSCRIBED, WITH EVERY SENTIMENT OF THE HIGHEST RESPECT, BY THE AUTHOR.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. A portion of the following work has already appeared in the New Monthly Magazine. The Letters smm Greece are now first printed. ■95 CONTENTS.

Letter I

Voyage from Marseilles to Pera. — Island of 2ea. Grecian coast. — Pass the Dardanelles. — Turkish villages. — View of Constantinople. — Anchor at Buyukdere'. — The Seraglio. — Land at Galata. — Massacre of the Greeks. — Beautiful village of Therapia. — Execution of two Greeks of rank. — Purchase-money of a beautiful slave. — Fine presence of the Turkish race. — Their indolence. — Character of the Turks. — Thei ruling passion. — Feast of Beiram. — Game of the jerrid Cemetery. — Boats of the Bosphorus. — Visit to the Islands of Chalet and Prinkipo. — Picturesque scenery. — Tour of the walls of Constantinople. — Anecdote of Mahmoud II. — Sacred fish. — The Atmeidan or great square. — Exterior of the mosque of Saint Sophia. — Gate of the Seraglio. — The Bezestein bazaar. — What merchants and pilgrims are seen in the bazaars. — The Author and his friends arrested by Turkish soldiers near Therapia. — Romantic appearance of their camp. — Hospitable reception in the Pacha's tent. — Curious account of the whirling dervishes. — Procession of the reigning Sultan described. Page CONTENTS. VIII

Letter II

The howling dervishes at Scutari. — Wandering dervishes and Santons. — Conclusion of the fast of Ramadan, when the Beiram commences. — Illuminated minarets. — Children extremely beautiful. — Population of Constantinople and the suburbs. — Devotion of the Turks. — Their life and habits unvarying. — Table and domestic economy. — The Greek quarter ofthe Fanal deserted. — 'Affecting events at Parga. — Massacre at Smyrna. — Aqueducts of Justinian and Bourgas. — Forest of Belgrade. — Delightful scenery of the shores of the Bosphorus. — Condition of Turkish women. — Effects of opium, and of a blind indulgence in it. — Tobacco and coffee of excellent quality. — Palace of the British Embassador. — English ladies of distinction. — Honourable conduct of the common Turks in • the Capital. — Amusing anecdote. — Number and character of the Janizaries. — Death of Sultan Selim III. Page 26—45

Letter III

The Author sails from Constantinople. — The site of Abydos. — A young traveller perishes of a fever, brought on by the exertion of swimming across to Sestos. — Englishmen who established a cotton manufactory at Tebriz. — The Author's servant Michele Milovich. — His zeal. — Appearance of the Isle of Scio. — Visit the Consul's house in that fine Island. — Character of the Sciotes. — General massacre in Scio. — Twenty thousand Sciotes perished. — Supposed school of Homer. — Convent of Nehahmonre. — Productions of Scio. — Fine climate. — Quit the Island. — Arrival at Smyrna. — Intermarriages of Europeans with the Smyrniotes. — Oriental burying-ground. — Villas of European merchants at Bournabat. — Storks ; pigeons flying round the remains of Balbec. — Table d'hote. — CONTENTS. IX 6fi 79 Crew of a Ragusan ship put to death. — The beau idiot exemplified in a Greek face. — Curiosity and versati lity of the Greeks. — Calm conduct on the approach of a violent death. — Heart-rending anecdote of a Gre cian wife. — Passage to Alexandria. — Boarded by the Greek squadron. — Fellow-passengers described. — View of Alexandria. — Pompey's pillar seen above the city. Page 46

Letter IV

The Author lands in Egypt. — Insects and flies. — Song of a Turk. — Hire donkeys for an excursion. — Pompey's pillar of the Corinthian order. — Height of Cleopatra's Needle ; its hieroglyphics. — Ruins of the ancient Alexandria. — Resort of the Frank coffee-houses. — Fortifications of the city. — Mahmoud Aly, the Viceroy or Pacha, massacres the Beys of the Mamelukes. — Canal of Cleopatra completed. — Personal appearance of the Viceroy of Egypt. — Wages paid for the forced labour of Egyptians and Arabs. — Description of Rosetta. — Nuptials ofthe Consul's daughter at Damietta Eastern etiquette. — The Author navigates the river Nile. — Villages and Minarets on its shores. — The town of Foua. — The Muezzin's call to prayers. — Still waters of the Nile. — Excellence of the provisions served on board. — Passengers in the bark described. — The aged Reis commanding the vessel falls overboard, and is drowned in the Nile.

Page 67 An Arab village of unburnt brick ; dinner obtained in it. Names of the Arabs imprinted on their wrist Their cookery. — Enter Boulac, the port of Grand Cairo. — Sorrow of the ill-fated Reis's family. — Strong emotions of the Arabs. — Visit to Mr. Salt, the Consul-general Ancient look of Grand Cairo. Mounds of rubbish around it Population. — Architecture and economy of this capital. — Style of living of the European inhabitants. — Fruits and luxuries. — Clouted CONTENTS. X cream vended as a substitute for butter — Cutting of the bank of the Nile, August 16th — Concourse and festival on this occasion witnessed by the Author — Gushing of the waters through the opening in the dykes Largesse thrown into the torrent by the Kiaya Bey causes the drowning of some of the scram blers Blessing of this annual flood. — Cairo gradually flooded by this great national and agricultural operation. Page 68 — 90.

Letter V

Burial-ground of the Mamelukes The tombs of the Caliphs Mystery of an Egyptian wedding. — Ancient wall of Cairo. — Mount Mokatam, and the Citadel. — Narrow pass, skirted by rocks, in which the three hundred Beys were slain when on a visit to the Citadel. — Conduct of Ibrahim Pacha. — Asses hired by the hour. — The descent to Joseph's Well. — Hall and Granaries of Joseph. — The Author accompanies M. Caviglia to the Pyramids. — Gizeh. The allaying of thirst a primary object. — Causeways across the inundated country. — Distant view of the Pyramids. — Sups in a cavern. — M. Caviglia's excavations. — Subterraneous communication sought for. — The enormous Sphynx. — The Author ascends the great Pyramid. — Beholds the desert and the course of the Nile. — Height of the Pyramids * first impression on the mind on seeing them. — Descends into the great Pyramid. — Celebrated Sarcophagus. — Belzoni's chamber in the rock. — An Arabian Santon residing at the Pyramids. — The sacred trees. — Sunset beheld in the Desert. — Bedouins. — Reflections on the Author's intended route and its perils. — The Pyramids of Saccara in sight. — Bathing. — The inundation extended. — Agriculture. — An Arab funeral. — Market at Cairo for the sale of Circassian women High value. — Family of a rich Jew visited by the Author. Page 91 — CONTENTS. XI ■124 135.

Letter VI

Departure from Grand Cairo for Upper Egypt Sail in a,cangia on the Nile. — Town of Benesuef. — Pure atmosphere in an Oriental country Civilities of a Turkish officer — Town of Miniet ; sugar manufactory of Mr. Brine His English garden Indolence of the Africans. — Death of Mr. Brine Monfalut Almek dancing-girls. — Siout the provincial capital Girge\ A Greek doctor of Ibrahim's army at Sen naar. — The second Beiram. — A Coptic convent. — Pre cipitous shore of the Nile. — The sceptical barber. — Visit to the temple of Tentyra. — Hieroglyphics. — The Zodiac removed from Tentyra to Paris. — Mode of propitiating the waters when the overflowing is scanty. Page 113- Keneb, a commercial town of Upper Egypt. — Supposed site of Coptos. — Ancient columns removed to support a village mosque. — Devoutness of the people Fune ral at Koft. — Scenery ; range of Libyan and Arabian mountains on either side of the Nile. — Luxor : ruins of the great Temple. — Twelve enormous granite figures fixed by the water's edge. — Obelisks, with a fine specimen of hieroglyphics — French residents at Luxor. — Suleiman Aga, commandant at Esneh. — Stu pendous ruins of Thebes. — Dimensions of the Temple of Karnac. — The avenue of Sphynxes. — Magnificent portico. — The Thebais. — Obelisk broken down by Drouetti. — Superstition of the Arabs respecting these ruins. — Night-scene of great interest. Page 125-

Letter VII

The Author visits the Memnonium. — The hieroglyphics warlike. — Columnar statues of Osiris — Great statue at Kurnu. — Ruins of Medinet Abou. — Elegant palace. — The Temple. — Cemetery of Thebes. — Devastations as to the ancient mummies. — The colossi of Memnon, CONTENTS. 154, seated amidst the inundation Heat nearly insuffer able. — Gradual change of complexion, until black is found the general colour. — Temple of Etfu or Apolli nopolis. — Greek adventurer. — Early marriages. — Es sonan and the site of Syene. — Island of Elephantine. Observation regarding Palestine. — Visit to the Isle of Philæ. — Its lonely situation in the Nile near to the desert. — Importunities of a Berebere. Delay in Ele phantine. — The Cataracts insignificant. — Return to Thebes. — Deserted monastery. — Tombs of the Kings ; curious-chiselled and painted allegories on the walls of the fourteen chambers. — Renegades in Ibrahim Pacha's army. — The Arabian Nights' Entertainments inspected by two Arabs. — Fakir, or Arab priest, de scribed. — The dying girl. — What feelings of pity are excited by such impi*essive scenes. Page 136

Letter VIII

Arrival at Aboutige. — Author's ride to Monfalut. — An Arab fair. — Hamlet of Copts within an inclosure of walls. — Books in the Coptic character. — Enters the city of Siout. — Caravan of black slaves for the market of Cairo. — Game at quarter-staff. — Radamouni. — Ruins of Hermopolis. — Antinoe built by Hadrian. — Lands near Saccara. — View from the top of these pyramids. — Renovated verdure on the fall ofthe inundation — Climate too sultry for continued land-journeys. — Resides in the house of M. Asselin at Cairo. — French Mamelukes seen in this city, who formerly preserved the Pacha's life.— Tomb of Burckhardt. — Tales of wonder told in the coffee-houses of Cairo. — Travelling narrators of stories. — Daughter of the Swedish Consul shot by a fanatic soldier. — Passage of caravans through Cairo towards Mecca, highly interesting. — Books scarce. — Singular exhibition of drollery. — The Pacha's palace at Shonbra A Frank physician is readily admitted into a Harem.— Pleasant CONTENTS.

XIII site of Old Cairo. — Hadgis, or pilgrims. — Ordeal experienced at the warm-baths of Cairo. — European party which accompanies the Author to visit Mount Sinai. Page 155—171

Letter IX

Sensations felt in travelling on a camel. — Life of the wandering Arabs not without a strong charm and interest A German missionary from Cambridge carrying bibles to Mount Sinai, in terror of a night attack. — Arrival at Suez. — Shore of the Red Sea. — The fish delicious Pools called the fountains of Moses Varied scenery of the desert in plain and mountain. — Valley of Paran and its fountain Singing of a German servant displeasing to the Arabs Dews at night Group of Arabs ; their songs Salutation by passengers in the desert. — Tea, a luxury desirable in these deserts Wild glen. — Costume of the Arabs. — Grandeur of scenery around the convent of Sinai Winding valley in the approach to Mount Sinai This mount not conspicuous above the neighbouring mountains. — They reach the convent of Saint Catherine. — Welcomed by Jouma, their Arab guide. — Travellers hauled up by the monks with ropes cast from the window. — Reflections on the comparative nature of human happiness. — Matins of the Greek monks. — Their table, health and innocence. — Fine church and tomb of St. Catherine, which merely contains a waxen image. — Rich altar. — Curious manuscript dehvered up to the Sultan. — The Monks fear assassination by the Arabs. — Bread and cakes cast out to propitiate them. — Buonaparte's present of two pieces of cannon for the convent's defence. Page rs-fe— 191

Letter X

Tradition as to Moses. — Aged Monk. — The four summits of Mount Sinai. — Enthusiasm of the missionary CONTENTS. on ascending the Mount Monastery from which the Arabs expelled the inmates Night spent in its de serted chambers They ascend St. Catherine's, sur mised to be Mount Horeb.— Rock of Meribah ; local evidence of the miracle — The Author and party cap tured by Bedouins on their return to the convent, in which they had left their arms.— Anxious night passed near the fire of the sleeping captors. — The three tra vellers carried off to the wilderness of Paran Mount Paran described The chief, Hassan, conducts them through the narrow defiles of Paran — Hospitable entertainment by Hassan's friends Black goat Volleys fired upon the Monks in their secure convent. — Remarkable prints.— Secluded life ofthe Monks. Page 192—209.

Letter XI

The party reach Hassan's encampment — Jealousy which the tribe entertained of the Monks of St. Catherine. — Imaginary Book of Might — The two wives of Hassan. Manners of the Bedouins Their friendship for each other. — The captives are visited by the younger wife of the chief. — The Missionary fearful of her visits Ibrahim, an Arab chief, intercedes for the prisoners with Saleh, the chief of the whole territory. — Council of thirty Sheiks assembles. — Hassan overpersuaded to set them free. — Saleh's curious dispatch to Cairo. — Hassan conveys the liberated party to Cairo. — Hassan run away with by a camel Scene of the miraculous passage of the Red Sea Valley of Hirondel. — Locusts described Rejoined by Michel, and Franco, the German servant Meet with pilgrims returning from Mecca They ford the Red Sea to Suez The plan which had been formed for their rescue — Kind reception by the Aga at Suez. — Lights of a caravan at night — In ten days reach Cairo.

Hassan preserved from vengeance ; amicable parting. CONTENTS. XV .227 •248 —Sail in a cartgia for Alexandria Hospitality of Mr. Lee, the Consul at Alexandria. The Author departs for Palestine. Page 210-

Letter XII

The Author sails from Alexandria Voyage of a Rabbi to Palestine when on the point of death Indifference of a Turk to the inconveniences of the voyage Mount Carmel in sight. — Lands at Caifa. — Catholic priest expelled from the ruined convent. —Procures a passport for Acre. — Meets the Missionary at Acre, who proceeds with the Author to Tyre. — Lodges in a lonely khan Population of Tyre- — Proceeds to Sidon. — Marilius, the house of Lady H. Stanhope. — Her domestic economy Her spirit changed since she quitted Palmyra Her influence. — Her former adventurous journey when she became Queen of Palmyra. — She shuns Enghsh society. — French artist shot by Arabs. — Arrival at Beirout, a pleasant town of Syria War betwixt the Pachas of Acre and Damascus Mr. A. the Enghsh Consul Granite pillars seen along the margin of the sea. — Faccardine, a Prince of the Druses. — The rainy season Visit paid to the Emir Busheer • personal description of this ruler of Mount Lebanon. — Prophecy which is credited respecting the conversion of Christians to the faith of Mahomet. — Feasting at Beirout The Author repairs to the town of Dalil Camar Race of the Druses Convents of Lebanon Returns to Tyre. — Passes a night in a village near Acre, in the Sheik's house. Page 228-

Letter XIII

The Author ascends Mount Carmel. — The River Kishon, and plain of Esdraelon. — Mounts Tabor and Hermon seen in front. — Fertility of Palestine. — In- CONTENTS. XVI ■268 vitation given him by Arab Gipsies. — Population of Nazareth is Christian. — Church and convent of Spanish priests. — The workshop of Joseph. — School which was attended by the Saviour. — Table of rock. — Precipice ; Tradition regarding it. — Romantic seclusion of this town. — Flat top of Mount Tabor. — Cana, and its vessels for water.— Fish of the Lake of Tiberias. — Site of Cæsarea. — Arrival at Jaffa. — Anecdote of the Consul, Signor Damiani. — Residence of Simon Peter the tanner. — Convent at Ramha. — First prospect obtained of Jerusalem. — Oriental luxuries exchanged for a cell in the Convent. — The Author perambulates the environs. — Rocky valley of Hinnom. — Mount of Olives. — Valley of Jehoshaphat. — The Armenian quarter. — The Convent receives great presents from Pilgrims. — The Jewish quarter of the city. — Population of the Holy City. — Mount Olivet higher than Zion. — The Modern Tower of David. — Situation of Mount Calvary. — Beautiful Mosque of Omar. — Site of Solomon's Temple. — Christians not permitted to approach it. — The Mosque of David. — Father Giu seppe and the Franciscan Monks. — Visit to the Holy Sepulchre. — The sacred tomb. — Paintings of the As cension, and Appearance to Mary in the garden. — Demeanour of the Pilgrims. Page 249

Letter XIV

The ascent to Mount Calvary.— The summit is crowned by the sacred Church. — Spot on which stood the Cross. — Night spent in the Church. — Solemn music. — Impressiveness of the place after midnight. — Computation of the number of Pilgrims. — Audience of the Armenian Patriarch. — Procession of the three orders of Monks round the tomb. — Altercation near the Holy Sepulchre. — Father Paolo Tiliungi. — The Author proceeds to Bethlehem. — Monastery of St. Elias. — CONTENTS. XVII -286 ■306 Site of the stable in which the Redeemer was born. — The study of St. Jerome. — Shells of mother of pearl. — Reservoirs formed by Solomon. — Hebron ; cave in which Abraham and Isaac were interred. — Tedium evinced by the Monks at Jerusalem. — Visit to the Dead Sea not permitted. — The pool of Bethesda. — Judgement-hall of Pilate. — Historical considerations respecting the real site of certain ancient spots.—Re volting ceremony.— The Fountain of Siloe".— Magnificent cavern. — Anecdotes. Page 269-

Letter XV

View of the Dead Sea from Jerusalem.— The brook Kedron. — Circuit of the City. — Topography of the ancient and modern town. — The garden of Gethsemane. — Church built by the Empress Helena. — Pillar of Absalom. — Village of Siloa. — Mount of Judgement. — Tombs of the Kings. — General appearance of Jerusalem. — Nature of the neighbouring hills. — The Wilderness. — Danger of a charcoal fire. — Franciscan Convent. — Valley of Elah. — Scenes of the ancient engagements. — The Governor of the City visited by the Author. — Visit to Bethphage and Bethany. — Tomb of Lazarus. — The River Jordan. — Condition of the Jews. Page 287-

Letter XVI

Hill and Cave of Engedi. — The Wilderness of Ziph traversed without a guard. — The Author visits the Cave of Engedi, inhabited by Ibrahim, an Arab. — Convent of St. Saba. — Character and conversation of Michel. — Cakes kept at the Convent to appease the Arabs.— Occupation of a venerable Greek. — Foxes ; a large bird shot. — A human body covered with bitumen. — The Author proceeds by night towards the Dead Sea. — Passes an Arab encampment. — Sueb CONTENTS. XVIII •326 ■352 ceeds in reaching the Dead Sea. — Its wild and gloomy aspect. — Mountains of Judæa and Arabia Petræa. — Length and breadth of the Lake. — Awful precipices around the Dead Sea. — Distant view of Jericho. — Desert. — Arrival at Jericho. — Fountain. — Quarantina Mountain. — Description of the Jordan. — Return to Jerusalem. — Ibrahim rewarded. Page 307

Letter XVII

Privileges of the Catholic and Greek Monks. — Procession to the tomb of Lazarus. — Pilgrims. — Hill of Michmash. — Sepulchres of the Jews. — Reflections on the modern Jews. — A zealous Monk, and a solitary Greek. — Scene of the death of Hezekiah Situation ofthe Mosques. — Village of Lazarea. — Second visit to the Monks of St. Saba. — The Monastery described. — Ibrahim, and the Cave of Engedi. — Caves in the Wilderness of Ziph, and bones there discovered. — The Greek Monks. — Money paid for the purchase of images, and for entertainment. — Solitude of the Monks. — Party of Armenians Feast of Easter. — Ceremony of the Holy Light. — The Synagogue. — Jewish ceremony. Page 327-

Letter XVIII

The war prevents an immediate visit to Damascus. — Effects of the war remarked upon at Acre. — A trench dug to strengthen the Fortifications. — Cruelty of Djezzar. — History of the Jewish Minister, put to death by Selim Pacha. — Khan at Ebilent*. — Field where the Disciples plucked the ears of corn. — Mount of Beatitudes. — Town of Tiberias. — Jews, who retire in advanced years to die in Palestine. — Lake of Tiberias. — Passage of the Jordan through the Lake. — Mountain of Bethulia. — Castle and Rock of Safet. CONTENTS. XIX —Friendly reception by a Shiek, when benighted.— Pipe of the Syrian shepherds. — Town of Hasbeia. — Action ; village of Rasheia destroyed.— Hill of Gibl Sheich covered with snow. — Damascus seen peering over an extensive wood. Page 353 — 373

Letter XIX

The Author visits the Spanish Convent. — Resides in Damascus. — Its extent. — Manners and costume of the Inhabitants. — Luxury. — Exquisite fruit and conserves. — Mourning in the Cemeteries. — The Great Bazaar. — Christian travellers not allowed to enter the Mosque. — Want of wines. — Rich commodities. — Kiosque. — Plain of Damascus. — The River Barrady. — Architecture and pavement. — Chaboiceau, a physician. — Amount of Christian population. — Amusing anecdote of a barber. — The Coffee-houses described. — Catholic Convent. — Pacha of Damascus. — Mountain of Ashloon, and road to Palmyra. — Attractions of an Eastern climate, and influence of its manners. — Costume of the Arabs. — Departure for Balbec. Page 374, — 392

Letter XX

Village of Zibolaneft — Demetrius, a Greek servant. — Ruins of Balbec. — Dimensions of the Temple. — Corinthian Capitals. — Sculptures. — Circular marble edifice. — The ancient quarry. — Sunrise, splendid amidst the ruins. — Lalla Rookh contains a faithful description. — Ascent of Lebanon. — The Author revisits Beirout. — Plunder during the warfare. — Silver horn worn by the women of Lebanon. — Young Swiss Missionary, his unlucky adventures. — Remarks upon the missions to the East.— Bishop Eusebius. — Travelling enthusiasm of a Roman Count.— Missionary's endeavour to convert the Prince of the Druses. — Snow on Mount Lebanon.— Beauty of Mount Carmel. Page 393—41 CONTENTS. XX •435 ■!'•

Letter XXI

Healthiness of Syria.— Longevity. — Emir Busheer, Prince* of the Druses, and his troops. — His admiration of Sir Sydney Smyth, and of Lady H. Stanhope.-^ Character of this " Queen of the East."— The Dragoman in love with her Ladyship's companion. — Unguarded behaviour of an English traveller. — Conversation of Lady Stanhope. — Her encounter with the Arab Sheik. — Fete given by her at Palmyra. — Tax upon travellers who visit the ruins. — Arab soothsayer. — Villa of Marilius.— Its stud. — Generosity and hospitality of the illustrious Lady. — Her eccentricity. — Two Enghsh Ladies visit her. — Christians forbidden to approach Mecca. — Village of Antoura, in which Mr. Wortley Montague resided. Page 412

Letter XXII

The Author's distressing voyage in an open boat. — Arrives off Cyprus. — Port of Larnica. — The European Consuls. — Excesses committed in Cyprus. — The Consul prepares to defend his house. — A Greek constrained to embrace Islamism. — Tragical situation of a Greek family. — Visit to the interior of the Island. — Cytherean groves, and village of Cytherea. — Monastery of St. Chrysostom. — Castle in ruin. — The Author received at Nicosia by Archbishop Cyprian. — Affecting anecdote of this Prelate .^Mosque of Nicosia; the Imaun expounding the Koran. — The Governor's palace. — Cruel execution of the principal Greek inhabitants. — Boast of a Sclavonian soldier. — Women of Cyprus. — Audience of the Governor. — His violence in discourse. — Visit paid to a General of the Egyptians. — Image of the Virgin in the Greek Convent. — The Author's farewell to the ill-fated Cyprian. — Massacre of the Archbishop and his chief Clergy. Page CONTENTS. XXI

Letter XXIII

The Author proceeds to the ancient Idalium. — Isolated family of Lepers. — Return to Larnica. — The Consul and his Family. — Demetrie's hoard of reliques. — The Author parts from his travelling acquaintance. — Sails from Cyprus. — Companions on ship-board. — Demetrio, a devout Sclavonian. — Long and boisterous voyage. — Want of sea-store. — Monks fearful during the storm. — A calm. — Despair of the passengers. — Delight experienced on landing in the Island of Rhodes. — Catholic Convent. — Fortifications of the city. — The town and harbour. — Superb climate. — Char ges-d' affaires. — Enghsh Captain, who embarks Turkish troops. — Sentiments of a Spanish Monk.— Villas. — Scenery of Rhodes. — The rose and myrtle. — Population and extent. — Cheap living. Page 464—485

Letter XXIV

Mountain in the Island of Rhodes The Author's perambulation. — Deceitful moment of tranquillity. — He sets sail. — Embayed, amidst islets and rocks Lands at Navarino. — Island and Castle of Sphacteria. — French Officers defeat an attempt of the Turks from Modon to surprise the Fortress of Navarino. — Wines of the Morea. — Turkish garrison put to the sword. — Description of Neo Castro, and of Sphacteria. — The Author proceeds into the Interior. — Unfortunate Sciote refugees. — Their miserable plight. — Popularity of the French merchants. — Village magistrate, want of repose after fatigue. — Depopulated Turkish village. — Messenian valley described. — Monastery and villages. — Site of Messene. Page 486—507

Letter XXV

Mount Ithome\ — Peril and wanderings.— The Author takes shelter in a lone cottage. — Eagerness of the CONTENTS. XXII country people to plunder the Turks. — Mainotes. — The Eurotas. — Mountain prospect. — Cruel acts. — In vitation from some Mainotes refused. — Gates of Tri polizza. — Party at night. — Lodging procured in the house of a soldier. — The Author removes to the house of Kyr Nicolai. — Description of Tripolizza. — Palace of a slaughtered Turk. — Turkish orphans. — Extraordinary capture of Tripolizza.— Greek Senate. — Approach of Raschid Pacha. — Costume of the Greek soldiers. — The Mosques and Minarets. — Military Priests. — The Koran burned. — French surgeon.— Resemblance of the Mainotes to the Scotch Island ers. — The Italian artillerist, his character. — Lively detail of a Coffee-house. — Beautiful women from the Greek Islands. Page 508 — 529

Letter XXVI

Distressing scenes at Tripolizza. — Unfortunate Aga. — European volunteers. — Death of an enthusiastic Englishman. — History of a Turkish widow. — Excesses in Tripolizza. — The Author's visit to the plain of Mantinea. — Site of Mantinea. — Climate. — English gentleman's adventures. — Greek merchants. — Colocotroni. — Courschid Pacha's ladies ransomed. Page 530 — 552

Letter XXVII

Advance of Courschid Pacha, to Argos. — Alarm of the Government. — Turkish etiquette overthrown. — Situation of the Turks. — Supineness of the Turkish army. — Resolve of Bobolina, a Greek lady, to slay her sister. — Timely firmness of Colocotroni. — The Aga Ali Cochi. — Visit to the Palace of a Turkish Commander. — The Author quits Tripolizza. — Argos burnt. — Hamlet in the mountains.— Flight of the Turkish widow. — Author's route to the Coast described. — He sails £pr Zante. — Wretched condition

Appendix

. XXIII ■578 ■593 of travellers in the Lazaretto.— Release from Qua rantine — Parting with the faithful Michel.— The Author's arrival in England. Page 552-

APPENDIX.

. Visit to Palmyra, communicated by a Friend of the Author. — The traveller quits Damascus. — The Desert described. — Achmed, his Arab guide. — Mountain of Ashloon. — Arabs and their flocks. — Their costume. — Reception at Carieteen. — Halt in the Desert. — Coolness of the nights. — Arrival at Palmyra. — The great Scheik. — The celebrated ruins explored. — Their resemblance to those of Thebes. — Estimated circumference of the ancient edifices. — Height and diameter ofthe columns. — Historical disquisition respecting the era when this city was built. — Tadmor. — King Rezon. — Sepulchral monuments. — Mummies. — The Castle Hill.— Valley of Salt.— Sulphureous springs. — Supper of goats'-flesh. — Brandy not forbidden by the Prophet. — Account of the Bedouin tribe, and the Scheik of Palmyra. — Beauty of the Palmyrene women. — The great Lady. — Farewell view of the Temple of the Sun. — Return to Damascus. Page In the press, BY THE SAME AUTHOR, LETTERS, WRITTEN DURING A TOUR THROUGH SWITZERLAND AND ITALY, IN THE YEAR, 1825.

Letter I. Constantinople

We arrived at Pera near Constantinople, after a very good passage of eighteen days from Marseilles, without much incident. The worst part of it was a calm of four days, that came on as we lost sight of Sardinia : during which the utter want of interest and variety brought a most wearying vacuity upon the mind, as we sat upon the deck, sick, gazing only on the sea and sky, and the waste of waters heaving around. On the fifth day a beautiful breeze sprang'up, and sickness and weariness fled away. The Morea came in sight, and we j* saw a sunset equal to some I have seen in England. But one lovely evening, the island of Zea was on one side, and a very pretty Greek town of white houses with flat roofs on its declivity, and a church at the bottom, with its town, just like one of our country village churches : the high and romantic land of Greece, very barren, was on the other side ; over which the sun sank gradually with in describable splendour.