Recollections of Travels in the East; forming a continuation of the Letters from the East

Front matter

RECOLLECTIONS OF TRAVELS IN THE EAST. BY THE SAME AUTHOR. STRATTON HILL; a Tale of the Civil WARS. By the Author of " Letters from the East." In 3 vols. post stvo. " Tins novel is a spirited and striking memoir of these eventful times, as well as finely desc.iplive of Cornwall." — Literary Gazette. " A production of the very highest order of composition, and amusing and instructive in the highest degree.** — Spirit and Manners ofthe Age. TALES of the WEST OF ENGLAND. By the Author of " Letters from the East." In 2 vols. post 8vo. 21s. Contents : — The Valley of the Lizard — the Miner — the Exile — the Legend of Pacorra — Wesley and his Disciple — St. Martin's Isle and the Power of Affection. LONDON : PRINTED BY SAMUEL, EENTI.EV, Dorset Street, Flert Street. RECOLLECTIONS OF TRAVELS IN THE EAST; FORMING A CONTINUATION OF THE LETTERS FROM THE EAST.

BY JOHN CARNE, ESQ. OF QUEEN'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 1830. TO HIS FRIEND, ALLAN CUNNINGHAM, Esq. THESE FEW AND SIMPLE RECOLLECTIONS ARE INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Valley of Zabulon. — Hill-country of Juda. — Poor vil ia_e. — Healthiness of the climate. — Ignorant priests. — Church at Tiberias — Ill-fated English merchant. — Jews at the Lake of Galilee. — Plain of Gennesaret. — Moun tains of Gilboa . • • Page 1—19

Chapter II

A Syrian town. — Dwelling of a native Prince. — House of a Syrian family. — Their mode of living and of enter taining the Author and his companions. — Departure thence. — Dreary appearance of the country. — Wretched village. — Ruined temple. — Village of El Furkah. — De vastation of the neighbourhood by war — Greek priest and his solitary dwelling. — Ancient Dan of the Jews. — Source of the River Jordan. — Wildness of the scene. — Ancient waters of Merom. — Bridge of Jacob . 20—41

Chapter III

Mount Carmel. — Bold and romantic scenery. — Spot where Elijah slew the prophets of Baal. — The river Kishon. — Squalid hut, in which the Author's party passed the night.— Insolence of the inhabitants —Wild CONTENTS. VIII minstrel.— Profligacy of the Arabs. — Departure from them. — Spot where the Prophet Elias lived — Awful aspect of the scene — Carmelite monastery here.—Re mains of monasteries in the neighbourhood. — Village of Nain.— Village of Endor.— Fortress formerly held by the Crusaders Mean hamlet on the sea-shore.— Dwelling of the Sheich.— His family.— The Sheich's morning prayers —Character of Oriental females.— Religious character of the men Attachment in misery of four young Turkish women. — Different sentiments enter tained by Greeks in similar circumstances. — Ruins of Cesarea. — Feelings on journeying towards Jerusalem 42—72

Chapter IV

Arrival at Ramla. — Picturesque ruins. — Difficulty in procuring a lodging. — Night in the public bazaar. — Life of a trader in this place. — The party resume their jour ney at daybreak. — Village of Lydda. — Barren hills. — Ruins of ancient edifices. — Small valley. — Wretche peasants dwelling in it. — Turkish mosque on the spot where the prophet Samuel was buried. — Attachment of the Turks to the burial-places of memorable characters in Scripture. — Ramah. — Ancient oak . . 73 — 88

Chapter V

Abou Gosh, the notorious Arab chief. — Extraordinary certificate — Altercation between a Missionary and a Rabbi, in the valley of Jehoshaphat. — Pillar of Absalom. — Enthusiasm of the Missionary. — Interesting scene with the descendants of the ancient Rechabites. — Peo ple of Bethlehem. — Insurrection there. — Triumph of Abou Gosh. — Antonio, the Catholic guide. — French physician in Syria.— His intimate knowledge of Oriental CONTENTS. IX manners, passions, and enjoyments. — His house and manner of life. — Singular adventures in the East of a London merchant .... 89 134,

Chapter VI

Sepulchres of the rulers of Israel. — Picturesque country — Groups of female peasants Valley of Ajalon. — Hopelessness of all attempts to convert the Israelites to Christianity. — Refuge from the rain in a cave. — Ar rival at the western gate of Jerusalem Silence of the city. — The Jewish quarter. — Bathing-house. — Young Jewesses. — The bazaar. — Fondness of the Jews for wine. — Hamlet among the rocks. — Scene of the groves and al tars raised by Solomon to false gods. — Grove of Moloch. — Sounds heard from the city, — Group of Jews at a fountain ..... 135 — 155

Chapter VII

Plain of Rephidim. — Tomb of Rachel. — Cave of Machpelah at Hebron. — Funeral processions of the Turks. — Degradation of the Jews. — Oriental ceme teries Area of the Mosque of Omar. — Dangerous ad venture of the Author in intruding there. — Ceremony of washing the feet of the Pilgrims. — Adoration at the Holy Sepulchre. — Mixture of enthusiasm and cupidity on the part ofthe devotees, particularly of the Author's servant.— History of this man . . 156—174

Chapter VIII

Sepulchre of the Virgin Mary. — Illumination of the interior. — Chant of the Monks.— Crowd of Pilgrims — Greek, Catholic, and Armenian altars — Indecorous ri- CONTENTS. X valry of the priests.— Discourse with two Catholic priests. —Tombs of Anna and Joseph.— Difference of feeling at the tomb of the Virgin, and on Calvary.— Narrowness of the streets in Jerusalem.— An ancient pool.— View of the city from an eminence.— Visit to Jerusalem of a noble English Lady, in male disguise.— The Author's apartment in a Convent.— A volume of Lord Byron's Works found there.— Narrow escape.— Visit to the Superior of the Convent . ... 175—193

Chapter IX

The Wilderness. — Pilgrims to the Holy Land. — Arab village. — Remains of the house of Zacharias, and of the Sepulchre of Elizabeth. — Difference in the demeanour of the pilgrims. — Wretched dwellings in the Arab hamlet. — Avarice and guile of the Armenian fathers. — Death of a wealthy merchant in the Convent. — Cruelty towards his servant. — Desert of the Evangelist. — Site of the an cient city of Tekoa, where the prophet Amos lived. 194—209

Chapter X

Circuitous route to the sea-coast. — Scanty grove on the Mount of Olives. — Village of Emmaus, and Chris tian church there. — Plain of Ramla. — Reception at the town. — Visit to the Governor.— His singular story. — Massacre of the Mamelukes . . . 210 — 223 EGYPT.

Chapter XI

City of Cairo.— The Pyramids.— The Nile.— Cafila of slaves. — Dongola woman bought by a Turkish merchant. CONTENTS. XI — Female dominion in Turkey. — European adventurers at Cairo. — Disastrous adventures, and apostacy of an American. — Devotion in the wilderness. — Campaign in Senaar 227—256

Chapter XII

Hassan, the Bedouin chief. — His attack and plunder of a caravan. — His capture and execution. — Desolation of his wives and children. — Dispersion of his tribe. — Al lusion to the Author's captivity in the tents of Hassan. — Wanderings of the Israelites. — Scene, of their en-< campments. — Their numerous sufferings. — Region of Paran. — Progress to the Red Sea. — Scene of the mira culous passage .... 257 — 283

Chapter XIII

Character of Mahmoud Ali Security throughout his dominions. — Favourite palace of the Prince. — Splendid kiosque in the garden. — Bath there. — Diversion of Mahmoud. — His attachment to European habits. — Eng lish lady at his table. — His favourite wife. — His cruelty towards a young Frenchman. — His prodigality of the lives of his people. — A French colonel. — French baker at Cairo. — Oppressive taxes. — Severe laws respecting sugar. — Grove of palm-trees. — Alarm of an Arab camp. — Hospitality ofthe Turks. — Striking example of this. — Vicissitudes of fortune sustained by the Emir Busheer. — Young Druse females. — Illustration of Scripture costume. — Greek war. — Residence in a Druse town. — Greek refugees. — A speculative Greek. — His coffee-house. — Costume and general appearance of the Druse soldiery. ■Call of the Muezzin. — Lady Hester Stanhope's Arab CONTENTS.

XII cook. — The Emir defeated by the Pacha of Damascus. — Sir Sydney Smith's advice to the Emir. — Flight ofthe lat ter. — His interview with Mahmoud at Cairo 284—324

Chapter XIV

A Scotch renegade. — His prosperous fortune. — Chica nery of an Armenian bishop. — Interview with this dignitary. — Fraud ofthe noted Gearv^. — His luxurious mode of living on the funds of the Bible Society. — A few words on the Apocrypha question . 325 — 339

Chapter XV

Sabbath in Cairo. — Christian service administered by a Jewish missionary.— Scene of the encampment of the host of Israel. — Mounts Sinai and Horeb.— Spot where Aaron reared the first altar. — Cave where Elijah took refuge from the revenge of Jezebel.— Savage aspect of the vicinity. — Different manner of the Divine miracles in Syria and Palestine.— Natural basin in which the golden calf was cast.— Waters of Mara . 340—348 RFXOLLECTIONS OF THE EAST

Chapter I. Valley Of Zarulon

The valley we had now traversed for some hours was the most extensive, save that of the Jordan, we had yet seen, and was full of in terest — it was that of Zabulon, and was inclosed by high mountains on the right and left. The valley was partially cultivated ; here and there were small fields of Indian-corn and barley, and hamlets were scattered few and far between. The whole appearance of the country was less barren than what we had seen on the preceding j; days, and discovered in many parts a wild and luxuriant richness, the wantonness of Nature, that might, with industry, have been turned to the most productive account. But a supine, inactive, and desponding feeling is felt or shown by most of the half-barbarous inhabitants, who fear, with justice, that the fruits of their labours may be suddenly reaped by any of the op pressive or marauding chiefs who have the strongest hand at the moment.

This and many adjacent districts were an ciently termed " the hill country of Juda ;" a denomination which is quite descriptive of their present appearance. In the course of a few hours, passing near a small village, and being exhausted with the heat, we resolved to seek some rest and refreshment during the sultriest part of the day, and entered one of the cottages. The people began eagerly to set before us the best cheer they could command, in the prospect of being well remunerated. A dish of fried eggs, some butter and milk, soon made their appearance, all good of their kind ; and we afterwards gladly availed ourselves of the shelter of the hut to take a short repose. The village consisted of about a dozen poor and scattered mud cottages, each with a small por tico in front ; it stood at the foot of the moun tain, which here descended in steep and naked crags ; patches of verdure were sprinkled thinly around the dwellings.

A few goats and sheep, fowls, &c. conveyed an idea of some degree of comfort, which, however, was seldom enjoyed by these poor people, who, compelled to sell the animals, as well as chief part of their pro duce, live themselves on the coarsest food. The climate in this land must be in general healthy, as would appear by the many old men that are met in the apparent enjoyment of health and strength. This seems to have been the case in the times of Scripture, from the frequent men tion of individuals who were well stricken in years, and still retained a good portion of their mental and bodily energy. Can there be a finer picture than that of one of the patriarchs, loaded with years, his beard and hair white as snow, but, with firm step and undaunted resolution, passing from place to place, or entering on long H journeys, with his children's children around him ; his memory not failing, and refreshing slumber not passing from his eyes, or the warm affections from his heart ?

In about two hours we again proceeded ; the valley grew wider as we advanced, the moun tains on each side more rugged, and the habitations ceased altogether, as the country became of a wilder aspect. The absence of dwellings was a pleasure rather than a dearth to the eye, so wretched was their appearance. Their interior was furnished only with a few wooden utensils of the rudest kind, some coarse mats to sleep on, and equally squalid coverings above. The Chris tian part of the population fares little worse than the Mahometans ; in almost every one of their villages a poor and ignorant priest resides, who receives a support, chiefly in provisions, with little money, just sufficient to maintain him in a state of comfort not at all superior to that of his flock. These priests are mostly low and il literate men, who are sent from different mo nasteries in Italy ; for few who were of superior manners or education, or possessed a luxurious abode at home, would voluntarily become exiles to such distant and dangerous scenes, where they are cut off from all society, and condemned to live a nearly barbarous life.

The dwelling of the pastor is not to be distinguished from the rest, nor is the traveller guided there, as in more civilized countries, with the certainty of finding hospitality and entertainment. A small edifice, used as a church, but scarcely to be remarked as such from any external signs, sometimes stands beside the priest's house ; but in many cases where the situation is precarious, no place of public worship is to be found. In such vicinities, the pastor's duty is confined to the dwellings of his flock. Some of these poor men do not hesitate to labour in the fields, or to do any thing to vary the monotony of their life, at which, however, they seldom murmur: an occasional journey on foot, or on a mule, to the convents of the capital, is an event of great interest to them, and they never fail to find the most cordial hospitality in the cottages by the way.

They visit each other also on occa sions, and the expense of entertaining the strangers falls on the villagers, who consider it as a sacred right, attached as they are, even amidst their wretchedness, to their priesthood. The Christians at Tiberias are visited every year on St. Peter's day by many of the bre thren from the country, as well as from the Catholic convent at Jerusalem, who perform high maSs in the small church on this me morable occasion, and remain several days in the town, well entertained. The church is not a very imposing building, compared to the mosque, which is really a handsome one, and surprises the traveller who sees it in so miserable a town. It cannot boast, however, of so illustrious a site as the former, which is built on the identical spot where St. Peter threw his net, and found the miraculous draught of fishes.

It is strange they do not also point out the spot on the bosom of the lake where he was about to perish in the waves. At this place we arrived at last, after tra velling four hours from the village where we had rested. Among the strangers who come from various parts to reside at this spot, was an ill-fated Englishman, who found his way here about two years since. Neither superstition nor enthusiasm had any part in this journey. He was a merchant, who, having been unfortunate in his affairs at Malta, resolved, in the true spirit of enterprise, to come to the East. He obtained an appointment under the Pacha of Acre for the making of indigo, and the situation of the undertaking was fixed at this town. He came here with sanguine anticipations of making a fortune, or at least of supporting himself handsomely.

A dwelling was given him that had been pre viously inhabited by, a Turk, near the edge of the lake, and it was more than sufficiently spacious for either his wants or luxury ; for he was alone, having left his wife and children at Malta. The sultry season soon after com menced, and in his letters to a friend he com plains feelingly of his situation. The indigo concern went on slowly, and poor Mr Betts, for that was his name, was only allowed six piastres a day for all his expenses by the Pacha. This sum, though it may appear small, being about four shillings English, was amply sufficient in a country so cheap, and where fruits, provisions, and wine bore a very low price ; yet his golden dreams were too slowly accomplished, and soon began to be forgotten in the hard realities that pressed around him.

The Pacha, a capricious despot, was disappointed at the tardy progress of the scheme, and wrote angry and sometimes threatening letters. It was in vain to represent to him the real state of things, the difficulty, at that season, of always procuring a sufficient quantity of the material, and the stupidity, as well as obstinacy of the people employed. Betts, a shrewd and enterprising, though an uneducated man, felt the difficulties of his situation, and looked forward to their increase and aggravation instead of abatement by the progress of time. Alone in his Eastern dwelling, unable to speak the language but through an interpreter, and cut off from society, he yet appears to have found some solace in the beautiful and hallowed scenery around him. It was the first time in his life, probably, that his mind had ever been susceptible of these feelings, and it was solitude and circumstances alone that drew them forth.

In some of the passages of his letters, he says, "I am quite alone, and have few luxuries except a quantity of fruit, melons in particular, which the excessive heat in this flat and close situation obliges me to eat every hour : the heat is dreadful, and my prospects are gloomy enough ; yet there are charms about the place which, under happier circumstances, I should enjoy greatly." Many of the people, unfortunately, looked upon him with a suspicious eye ; they disliked the innovation of this new concern, and still more that a foreigner should have the management of it ; so that, perhaps, any situation at that time would have appeared preferable to the one he held at Tiberias. How much our feelings are always governed by circumstances ! To the traveller who came here, every hill and valley of the scene was delightful ; his step lingered as long as possible, and felt at the last the strongest regret at leaving it.

The unfortunate merchant would have been glad to take wing, and have fled from its neighbourhood for ever; for he now began to regard every thing with a jaundiced eye. Indeed he had cause, for his employer the Pacha was a man that made small delay between the word and the deed, and was known to have a strong penchant for taking off heads when things went cross with him, or of punishing rather sum marily in other ways, even if he did not carry his displeasure so far. Like poor Belzoni, when his plan of irrigating Mahmoud Ali's gardens at Cairo miscarried, and one of the chief ser vants of the latter had his thigh broken by the breaking of the machine, Mahmoud instantly re solved to have his head, and it would not have been an hour longer on the Italian's shoulders, had not his friend and patron, the English con sul, earnestly interceded.

The merchant at Ti berias made occasional excursions to different parts of the lake : had he been better versed in its history and antiquities, he might have turned his protracted stay to better account and inte rest, for not a single spot in the land, save the capital, offers so many resources to an inquiring mind. Amongst the Jews who reside here, are men deeply versed in their own traditions, and who have travelled, the Poles in particular, over most parts of Europe, and others who have traversed great part of Asia, in pursuit of their calling, before they quitted it to come and re side here. After the hot season had passed, Mr. Betts found his condition more comfortable ; for the low situation of the town, at the foot of hills, and on the water's edge, exposes it to the fiercest heats.

The infection to which, at this season, it is subject, is very little inferior in torment to that of the Egyptian plague. Myriads of enormous insects, which appear, beyond all doubt, to be the lineal descendants of those which, we are told, filled the air, covered the repast, and made sleep an utter stranger in the land, swarm also here, and sleep is driven from the banks of the lake. Far on the opposite side of the mountains, is pointed out the site of the an cient town of Bethsaida: some low fragments of walls have been thought to be all that remains of the city " that was once lifted up to heaven, but now utterly cast down." The Jews, however, seem to dwell happily here. I have never seen more calm or contented countenances than these people wore, settled at last on the shores of their beloved lake.

It is not necessary to believe this people attached to the picturesque, but there certainly was a strong feeling of patriotism and nationality in this : to leave for ever the scenes where they had gained their pelf, where they had wandered for years, bartering and trafficking with all nations, a life of constant excitement. They had dwelt in cities, in deserts, in hamlets, and had pursued, with an undeviating hope, the great end of a Jew's existence — money : they had now abandoned all, and turned their backs on bargains and wanderings ; and the silks and satins, shawls and costly things of the East, that had been to them very dear as sources of profit, moved them no more. They passed into a state of utter quiescence, a life of contemplation, and of looking forward to the end of their career, when on their loved soil their foot alone should be triumphant.

Was it zeal only, or a feeling of satiety with the world, that urged this retreat? both perhaps were blended together : for an Oriental, however rest less and active his disposition, seldom chooses, like the European trader, to die in harness : but loves to steal forth, ere his career is closed, and devote some part of it to contemplation and peace. It would have been fortunate if the two sons of our entertainer had followed his example, and had come also to be happy and die at the lake of Galilee. It proves the uncertainty of our hopes and purposes : when the rich old merchant told his children his fixed intention to go on this distant journey, they remonstrated with him. " Why would he go thus into exile at his advanced age, and leave his family and friends, and luxurious dwelling, for a distant scene and unwholesome climate, though it was in their own ancient land?"

He was deaf to all their entreaties, and taking his young wife with him, and his servants, he bade farewell to the place where he had always resided, and grown very rich, and seen his sons also become rich and prosperous merchants, and held in esteem by all who knew them. The journey was long and tedious, for his advanced age only enabled him to proceed by short stages ; but the pro spect of resting beside this sea, was, to the aged Israelite, like that of a long-lost home to the exiled man ; and he looked on it at last, and was comforted for the loss of all he had left behind. He had not left his dwelling many months, ere the dreadful earthquake, that laid the greater part of Aleppo in ruins, took place, and his two sons and all their families perished. Their splendid houses and gardens, for they lived luxuriously, sank in the common destruction.

Their loss was very unfortunate for tra vellers, as they were liberal-minded men, lived in excellent style, and were very glad to see English, French, or any Europeans at their table, and visited with the Consuls. The aged father sorrowed deeply over this loss, yet could not help being struck with the mysteriousness of Providence ; his coming to the land of pro mise had saved him, like Lot of old, when he fled from the cities of the plain to avoid a similar destruction. Had he lingered still in his dwelling at Aleppo, and listened to the en treaties of his children, he had perished with them, as they had all resided near each other. He had wished that they should come also and dwell beside him in this revered place ; but it seems they were too fond of this world and its pleasures, and the growing wealth it af forded, to come and lead a life of contemplation and peace.

What might suit extremely well with their venerable parent, whose long white beard, tall stature, and wasted form, made him a very impressive personage, would hardly be so welcome to young and luxurious men. They considered, no doubt, that their well filled warehouses, long trains of loaded camels, and cool gardens and dwellings, were far preferable to the sultry and treeless region of the lake. But to return from this digression to the ill-fated Englishman. Soon afterwards he un dertook a journey to Jerusalem, which he had long had an anxious desire to see ; and though the distance, in England, would be run over by a mail-coach in eight hours, it might well be termed a journey, in this still primitive land, of three good days' duration. It was during the feast of Easter, and the sight of the pilgrims who came to the town, made him at this time, perhaps, resolve Q.n setting out.

His mind was singularly struck, and affected by the sight of the sacred places and the ceremonies that took place there ; and he said, that he returned another man to his abode on the lake ; that he had thought little of religion till he saw the Sepulchre, and the feelings that arose there nothing could ever erase. The hard and ad verse circumstances of his condition predisposed him, probably, to these emotions and sentiments, which, however, were a real consolation to him. His loneliness was now cheered by the arrival of his family from Malta, and the society of his wife was a delightful break on his weary hours ; the despondency of his views began to give way to brighter gleams of hope. They could not, of course, indulge in many luxuries ; the six piastres a day was the whole they re ceived for their united support.

The indigo concern still languished, and success, such as had been anticipated, seemed as remote as ever. Thus situated, however, this unfortunate family, now united, might have lived in comparative comfort, had not an event taken place as cruel as it was unexpected. The merchant, either through over-exertion about his business, or the heat of the season, caught a fever. There was no medical aid in the place that could be depended on, or was likely to be of service to him. He believed it would terminate fatally, and his feelings must have been as acutely painful as it was possible for any man's to be, at the prospect of leaving his wife and children unprovided for, and without a friend, in so remote and hostile a place. He died at the end of a few days, and was buried in the Christian burial-ground, attended only by his disconsolate widow, and a few of the kinder Catholics.

Some said that he had been poisoned by the natives out of envy or hatred, but this was scarcely to be believed. It was a mournful end of a very unfortunate enterprise. The widow and her children, lekving the desolate dwelling, found their way to Acre, where they continued for some time in great distress. The Consul of c Barout proved at last their only friend, reliev ing them by his own generosity ; and even pre vailed on the young Pacha, in consideration of the services of the husband, to allow some re lief to his survivors. After remaining above a year in that town, they succeeded in procuring a passage from a country, that, in its own figu rative expression, had only " heaped sorrow, like ashes, on their heads." No part of the environs of this celebrated sea delighted us more than the plain of Gennesaret, over which we passed a few days after.

It is one of the loveliest tracts in the whole land, covered with a wild rank verdure, and watered by a single stream, that issues from a large pool in the middle of the plain. Boldly and beautifully the mountains inclosed it on two of its sides : the sun was resting redly on their verdant declivities, and on the wide and silent area beneath, on which no trace of cultivation was visible. This region was evidently the favourite residence, or place of visitation, of the Re deemer; and here, it is said, his steps came more frequently than to any other part of the land. Where the stream finishes its course, is still pointed out the site of one of those cities on which the curse fell. On the following morning, ere the sun had risen, we pursued our way through a territory unrelieved by a single shrub, or blade of verdure; where for many leagues no trace of a habitation was visible.