A Visit to Colombia in 1822 and 1823, by Laguayra and Caracas, over the Cordillera to Bogota, and thence by the Magdalena to Cartagena

Front matter

JMtivn ly T.Jiirch ircm a sketch hy W" Ihi.ins /*. A- I FASS OF 1ACA1S1KEA. A VISIT TO COL031BIA, US? fll XJSABSf 1S83 & asss» BY LAGUAVHA AND CARACAS, OVER THE CORDILLERA TO BOGOTA, AND THENCE BY THE MAGDALENA TO CARTAGENA. BY COL. WM. DUANE, OF PHILADA. PHILADELPHIA . PRINTED BY THOMAS H. PALMER, FOR THE AUTHOR 1856. Eastern District of Pennsylvania, to wit : BE IT REMEMBERED, That on the 5th day of June, in the fiftieth year of the Independence ofthe United States of America, A. D. 1826, William Duane, of the said district, hath deposited in this office the title of a book, the right whereof he claims as author, in the words following, to wit : " A Visit to Colombia, in the Years 1822 and 1823, by Laguayra and Caracas, over the Cordillera to Bogota, and thence by the Magdalena to Cartagena.

By Col. Wm. Duane, of Philada." In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, intituled " An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned." And also to the act entitled, " An act supplementary to an act, entitled, ' An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned,' and extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching, historical and other prints." D. CALDWELL, Clerk of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

Preface

. THE Visit to thc Colombian Republic was made on behalf of persons in the United States, having claims against the government, of which other agents had not procured the liquidation. It was supposed that I should be more likely to accomplish that ob ject, and the business required that the first steps should be at Ca racas. I proceeded thither, and thence across the Cordillera to Bo gota, where I accomplished the settlement to a considerable amount. The parties in seeking to outwit each other embarrassed themselves; they however at length received the amount settled by me — but contrived to cheat me out of ray commissions. The fact would not be noticed, were it not possible, that an entire silence might be con strued into acquiescence in a transaction of transcendant knavery, meanness, and ingratitude.

Thirty years ago I became acquainted with some men of virtue and intellect, who were preparing the way for that revolution in South America, which is now realized. Those intimacies had, by exciting my sympathy, led me to bestow more earnest attention on the history, geography, and the eventual destiny of those countries. I perceived the commercial and political importance of those rich regions to the United States — countries possessing every thing that nature had bestowed on the other parts of the globe, and much more which none else possessed. A new creation springing out of chaos ; inviting the republic, which had only a few years preceded, to com municate its institutions, exchange its useful products, and promote a family of republics, whose institutions must eventually regenerate humanity.

A free press enabled me to communicate my anticipations and conceptions, which I continued to make known, even though laughed at — and by persons too who are now as zealous friends, as they were

PREFACE.

. before sceptical, hostile, and— worse. The generous love of liberty in a free nation, however, triumphed over insidious and open enmity to the new republics, and procured for my essays and my opinions a more rational reception; the government of Colombia thought my efforts worthy of a vote of thanks ; and the kindness and hospitality which I experienced in a long journey of thirteen hundred miles, afforded me ample vengeance for the sneers of those who have now become the admirers of a revolution, which they before reviled or deprecated. No labour has been attempted in this work ; a mere conversational narrative, such as I should give to a circle of private friends, is all that I pretend to. I had proposed to comprise my volume within five hundred pages, but it has swelled to a hundred and twenty more ; and I find I have not said one half of what my opportunities and materials would enable me to say — on the internal state of the country — its commerce, domestic and foreign — its constitution — laws and policy — its statesmen and its parties — finances— public economy — colonization— arts.

I meant to have said something about the Amphyctions of Panama, with the origin of which I was ac quainted before any other person now living in the United States — and I proposed to bestow a chapter on the grand work ofthe strait of Panama, to effect which I have made proposals to the Colombian government (sustained by capitalists) — and which, if accomplished, as I know it is practicable, would render the communication between the two oceans as free and more secure than the passage of the straits of Sunda or Gibraltar. When this sheet was going to the press, advices have been receiv ed of a gust of civil war, at Valencia, in which the reputation of a hero of the revolution is involved. The occurrence is to be lament ed, though the consequences carry nothing serious to the republic. The cause of this rumor may be found in the federative spirit the spirit of party — and the blind passions of personal envy and personal disappointment, incident to all revolutions, and which are possibly necessary to complete the career of the revolution, and es tablish the power of the laws, where the passions only had prevailed for so many ages. Circumstances dependant not on myself, will determine whether I shall publish any more on the subject. CONTENTS.

PREFACE.

• • Page 3

Chapter I

Voyage to Laguayra ••• 9 CHAPTER n. Residence in Laguayra and incidents there •••••••«•••••••••• •• 24 CHAPTER in. Further anecdotes, and departure for Caracas •••• •••••• 57 i

CHAPTER IV.

Caracas — first impressions— manners — oriental style of building 52

CHAPTER V.

Plaza Mayor — market — college — library— ecclesiastical affairs 69

CHAPTER VI.

Religious processions— visit to the country — military parades 87

CHAPTER VII.

Bolivar's birth-day — musical party — a coffee plantation 101 CHAPTER Vin. Departure, preparations for — hints to travellers 114

CHAPTER IX.

Cross the Guayra— cavalcade — the route to San Pedro — San Mateo 128

CHAPTER X.

Sugar-mill at the Hacienda of the President Bolivar — pass of La Cabrera — Paez 143 CHAPTER Xr. Lake of Valencia — strategy at Naguanagua t.. VI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XII.

Grenadiers of Colombia— Senator Peiialver— barbarity of Boves«« Page 177 CHAPTER XIU. Carabobo — Captain Spence and Morales • • 190

CHAPTER XIV.

San Carlos— El Altar— buttress tree • ••• 20**

CHAPTER XV.

Barquisimeto — Alcalde — dismal plain — Tucuyo • 218

CHAPTER XVI.

Humacaro Baxo — knavish Alcalde — wild country. • ..»...•••••.«•••••••• 236 CHAPTER XVn. Obispos — Carache — Santa Ana — treaties there 249

CHAPTER XVIII.

Truxillo — Gen. Clemente — soldier's widow — Mendoza — Christmas day 262

CHAPTER XIX.

Motatan river — Timothes — curate — tournament— Erica — the Virgin of Chinchinquira •••••••••••• 280

CHAPTER XX.

Hospitality at Muchachees — Merida — Gov. Paredes — Sierra Nevada 294

CHAPTER XXI.

Exido — Lagunillas — Natron Lake — turbulent Chama"**. •••••••• 307

CHAPTER XXII.

Bayladores — agriculture — Col. Gomez — Gritja — ruse de guerre — Post-house at ElCobre 320

CHAPTER XXIII.

Army magazines — Challomar — a bivac — Gen. Urdaneta— Capacho— Cucuta 336

CHAPTER XXIV.

Fandango — Saltikal post-house — Indian rancho, happy condition — Pamplona 351

CHAPTER XXIV.

Military depot — arsenal — military drills— training horses — Volcan de Agua — good Franciscan 372

CHAPTER XXV.

Goitre— Capitanejo— bridge— videttes— Suata— Senora Calderon — Sativa CONTENTS. VII

CHAPTER XXVI.

Boyacca — traditions — Serinza — a French traveller Page 399 CHAPTER XXVn. Santa Rosa — beautiful town and plain — hospitality — handsome population — Paypa — loa diabloajizuloa • • 415

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Peeling winds — sublime wilds — Virgin of Chinchinquira, becomes a patriot — -bull teazing 428

CHAPTER XXIX.

Fra. Garcia — Tunja — Seiior Soto — education 442

CHAPTER XXX.

Suesca — Hacienda — plain of Bogota — approach to the city — Plaza Mayor. • • 455

CHAPTER XXXI.

Cathedral — palace — market — Calle Real — artisans 471

CHAPTER XXXII.

Cataract Taquendama — Suacha — Franciscan monastery. 490

CHAPTER XXXIII.

Geographic sketch — political distribution of the Republic............. 501

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Congress of 1823 — state of the Republic, foreign relations 513

CHAPTER XXXV.

Affairs of interior • 526

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Financial Report — Report ofthe War Department — Naval Report 546

CHAPTER XXXVII.

Leave Bogota — Quindiu, Guaduas, Honda — hints to travellers 569 CHAPTER XXXVHI. Rapids — passage of the Magdalena — Mompox 586

CHAPTER XXXIX.

Leave Mompox — Teneriffe — anecdotes — Barranca Nueva — the digue — Turbajo — Cartagena. • 602

Appendix

.— No. I. Fundamental law of Angostura, 1819 623 No. n. Fundamental law of Cucuta, 1821 625 No. III. Itineraries! •-•••-■ ••-■■■-■ to #-*••-■*•• ............... THE PLATES. The Pass of Cabrera, to face the title. The Fall of Taquendama, to face Chap. A VISIT TO COLOMBIA

CHAPTER I.

Embarcation, and reception on board. — A sister of Bolivar occupies same cabin. The mess a variety of cheerful and agreeable company. — Pass Sandy Hook, 3d Oct. — joined by the Vincador, our consort — make sail S. E. — character and force of both ships. — The horse latitudes — conjectures concerning. — Ship put in fighting trim. — Anecdote of Senora Bolivar. — See Sombrero 14th, afternoon — passed close to Orchilla — glimpse of Cape Codera. — Coast as approached Caravallada — historical anecdote of its spirited population. — Foundation of Laguayra. — The Sierra Avilla seen, and the Silla — aspect ofthe mountains in front. — Palm trees at Maquiteia — and town. — Casemates of Laguayra constantly beaten by the surf — prison and grave of patriots. — Anchor on 1 8th with fourteen fathoms cable out — salute, and salute returned. — The U. S. corvette Cyane, Capt. Spence — his manly conduct — land the 18th. — A harbour easily formed here secure against all storms. — Find acquaintances unexpectedly.— Kindness of American consul, and Commodore Daniels — introduced to Commandant — quarters. — Oriental style of building and living. — Politeness of a friend. — Baggage not examined. — Mode of carrying ashore — paying porters.

THE Colombian Government, through their agent, Com modore Daniels, had purchased the beautiful corvette Her cules, built by Mr. Eckford of New York, in the fall of 1822 : the Commodore, understanding I was about to visit Colombia, with his accustomed generosity, offered me a pas sage, which was extended with the same kindness to my daughter Elizabeth, and stepson Lieut. R. Bache, ofthe U. S. Artillery. We were at New York in time, and embarked at noon on the second of October, 1822 ; and the same evening anchored within Sandy Hook. o The experience and kindness of the commodore had anti cipated every thing that could render our passage and ac commodations pleasant. The state cabin had been appropriated to Stnora Antonia Bolivar and her daughter Jose phine; the other two births, one to Elizabeth, and one to myself.

Young Pablo, the son of Stnora Antonia, and Lieut. Bache, were lodged in the two births next contigu ous. The state cabin was also the mess-room, and besides the Commodore and those above mentioned, the mess con sisted of Captain Austin, who navigated on the part of the owners ; the ship's husband ; and such of the officers and passengers on board, in rotation, as the space would con veniently admit. We had a great variety of characters, and (what does not always happen on board crowded ships) there was not a single squabble nor dispute during the voyage ; good humor, and an unstudied disposition to afford every ser vice that could be agreeable, rendered the passage rather a party of pleasure on a river than a voyage at sea in a ship of war. Capt. Austin, who was to deliver the ship at Laguayra, united the literary character with the seaman, and left no thing on his part undone to contribute to the general comfort and pleasure.

The officers who occasionally dined with us gave a diversity to our company, and there appeared to be no sort of contention but who should be most obliging and attentive. Our fare, to the hour we landed, was in every respect equal to what we should expect at the best hotel in New York ; and the wines were equally excellent and abundant. The first dawn of the 3d of October found us under top sails outside Sandy Hook, of which we very soon lost sip-ht. About 11 o'clock descried a sail, which proved to be the Vincador, Colombian sloop of war, Capt. Shannon, who had been cruizing for. us several days. After the usual communications between the ships, made sail our course to the S. E. till otherwise ordered. The corvette being to be delivered only at Laguayra, carried the stripes and stars. The Vincador, the colors of Co lombia.

The 'Hercules, which after her transfer took the name of Bolivar, carried twenty five 32 pounders, such as are usually carried by U. S. corvettes ; besides two brass 24 pound cannon on her forecastle. Her crew consisted of 220 prime seamen, principally of the crew lately discharged from the U. S. frigate Macedonian. The Vincador carried fourteen guns, and her ordinary complement of 150 seamen, besides the like number of vo lunteers intended for other ships of the Colombian navy. On board both ships there were several experienced naval officers extra, destined for the same service ; among whom were Lieut. Christie, formerly of the U. S. navy, Mr. Mur ray, formerly of the British navy, Capts. Clerke, Swaine, &c. men experienced in naval and military service ; besides a number of tyros, candidates for appointments in the naval service.

The weather was fair and winds propitious; nor had we a rough sea or foul weather during the passage, excepting the cobbling sea and hazy atmosphere in what the sailors denominate the horse latitudes. It would seem that this agitation of the sea and clouded atmosphere are produced by the encounter of adverse currents. The waters of the great current of the Orinoco, which is the grand feeder of the Gulf stream, do not all flow to the westward, and between Cape Catoche and Cape An tonio ; much of those waters are thrown to the N. E. and pass through the channels of the Windward Islands and the Antilles ; and I suspect that the warmth which is perceptible in those currents, brought from the regions beneath the equator, meeting at those latitudes the currents from the N. W., which bring them within the cold temperature of the north, produce at once this short and broken sea, and the vapour which for two days excluded the cheering rays of the sun.

IS VISIT TO COLOMBIA. The sailors assign as the origin of the name horse latitudes, that it has been given by those who, in supplying horses to the West India islands, here often encountering a more than usually rough sea, are compelled for safety to throw their cargoes overboard. I am not aware that this is the same maritime position to which the Spaniards give the name of El Mare de los Mulas. This bickering of the waves, which appeared trifling to persons accustomed to the sea, was considered very rough weather by those whose first voyage it was. Our course was not materially interrupted, and the third day restored us to sunshine, and our dining table to a horizontal position, and the gallant ship again floated majestically on an even keel eight and ten knots an hour. Indeed, the passage resembled more the even movement of a steamboat on a spacious river, than that of a ship of war on the broad and often boisterous Atlantic.

Our consort never parted company, reporting alongside at sunrise and sunset, and sometimes exchanging visits ; which to some of the passengers was very satisfactory, under the apprehension that we might be overhauled by Spanish ships of war ; an apprehension totally unfounded, as there was no ship then in those seas of sufficient force to encounter us; and if there were, independent of the importance of our con sort, our ship was completely equipped, and was soon after putting to sea prepared for such a contingency : our flag, it was reasonable to think, would have prevented a conflict ; but if the worst should occur, we had a heavy broadside, an expe rienced and intrepid ship's company, and about a dozen gal lant officers on board, each competent to command, and who had seen some rough service and given some hard knocks.

The sailors disliking nothing so much as lounging in their hammocks, or on the spars, or the forecastle, and besides it being good for their health, the fine weather was used to put the ship in fighting trim. The routine of discipline, which is that of the U. S. navy, in the distribution of duties and the assignment of stations, was soon accomplished, and every gun had its captain, gunner, and assistants. Gangs of board ers were organized, and helmets, hangers, pikes, axes, and hand grenades distributed. The idlers (that is, all on board who are not of the ship's complement) were organized as marines, furnished with rifles, and assigned to the poop, forecastle, and tops ; and the spirit-stirring drum beat all hands to quarters. In an instant every thing was in a bustle, courses hauled up, matches lighted, water tubs placed, and every gun manned.

The silence was as emphatic and im pressive as the momentary agitation. The word fire! was echoed by the roar of the guns ; and succeeded by the same impressive silence. The guns being scaled and reloaded, the shamfight closed with a real frolic, — abundance of grog for the ship's company. To those who are unaccustomed to the " note of preparation" for military action, this mere semblance could not but be impressive. In the course of the preparation Sefiora Antonia requested the commodore to inform her where she was to take her station in case of an action ? The commodore, with per fect presence of mind, assured her that she had not been ne glected ; that no station on board in time of action was more important than the charge of the magazine, which was never entrusted but to the most worthy and confidential ; that this charge would be committed to herself, and Miss Josephine and Miss Elizabeth should be her assistants.

She appeared for an instant satisfied, but the commodore adding ; that the ma gazine was below the range of shot, and therefore perfectly out of danger, the countenance of the good lady, before per fectly composed, appeared to be lighted up by indignation, and her eye sparkling, she exclaimed — " No ! no, Senor Commodore ! no quiero ! — mi nombre es Bolivar, y mi lugar es en frente del peligro." No ! no, Mr. Commodore, this must not be ; my name is Bolivar, and when there is danger my station is in front. It was the emotion ofa moment ; the expression was ani mated, and the effect electrical ; it was not until the commo dore assured her of a station near himself on the quarter deck, in case of any adventure, that she was reconciled. To me the incident was the more remarkable, because when the sea chanced to be agitated in the horse latitudes at night, or the ship leaned with a stiff breeze, her hours were devoted to unceasing prayer ; the holy rosary was repeated, and the responses by her amiable daughter, as long as the ship was any way disturbed in its motion.

On the evening of the 14th of October the island of Som brero was distinctly marked on our starboard bow ; and we changed our course to the westward. On the morning of the 15th Saba rose ahead, apparently about the size and shape of an inverted teacup ; by one o'clock it was largely defined to the S. S. E. about ten miles, and as we passed at ten knots an hour, under our upper sails, the figure constantly changed. About five o'clock St. Christophers and Ne vis were in sight, and, in the dim distance, St. Eustatia with its double summit S. W. The whole groupe of islands in that direction, bore the appearance of headlands to a continuous continent, and as if stretching from S. E. to N. W. This navigation is so well known, that nothing novel eould be said about it ; what has been said is intended rather to show the good judgment by which the track was chosen, the facility of the passage, and the short time in which it was performed.

Our course lay by the northward of the celebrated ledge, at the extremity of which is Bird-island ; and then parallel with its west side, our course nearly south. On the 16th we heard the surges beat against the steep solitary rock of Orchilla, distant about three miles on our larboard ; the boisterous surf seemed to rage in eternal anger at its base. At half past four we had the first glimpse of terra firma on our larboard bow. The atmosphere was loaded with a sieepy vapor, which appeared like a curtain hung horizontally about one hundred feet above our topmast heads ; the space beneath dimly but distinctly lighted, so that we could discern Cape Codera as if growing out of the sea as we approached land ; after some time it presented its rounded summit and steep north lace to the ocean ; and on the south side inclined gradually to the margin of the shore, where the view was concealed by clouds of vapor of different light and shade.

The lake of Ticaragua lies to the eastward of Cape Codera a few leagues, it is an oval bason of twenty by fifteen miles, formtrly open to the sea like the Cinegas of Maracaibo and La Hacha, but now only accessible in small boats. This Cinega receives the waters of many valleys, and particularly those ol the Tuy and Caracas. The evapora tion from these waters I presume intercepted the view, and gave the position an appearance of an inland gulph or the mouth ofa vast river. A little farther west lies the dark base of the Sierra, which seems placed like a barrier against the ocean, which perpetu ally beats like a battering ram against its feet, and retiring only to return again with never exhausted force. The coast from Cape Codera to Laguayra, about eighty miles apart, has an ample curve, more apparently regular than real ; nor do the mountains rise so abruptly and precipitous within the Cape, as nearer to and in front of Laguayra.

The coast is rugged and rocky, westward ofthe Cape ; farther west there is some space between the sea and many recesses in the line of mountains, upon which scenes ofa highly picturesque character are open to the sea : many small plantations covered with verdure, and trees too minute to tell their character or class ; rocky cliffs again appear ; and not less than seventeen small rivers issue from the Sierra, some of which carry boats two or three miles inland through those narrow valleys, that seem crevices in the mountain, and along the margin of which are fine fields of sugar cane and cacao plantations ; near Caravellada, the position at first selected for a port on this coast, cultivation is more extensive, and the coast is composed of detached hills which bear their verdure to their summits.

De Pons has given a concise account ofthe cause of its abandonment, which becomes of more interest from the events that have since taken place, than when he. narrated it, as it corroborates the declarations of intelligent men, that notwith standing the iron despotism of the Spanish government, and the more galling tyranny of its deputies, there was always in S. .America a latent spirit which required only a spark to kindle it into a general blaze. Caravellada was established by Losada in 1568, and had a cabildo or corporation : the members of cabildos throughout America were elected by the people. In 1586, Roxas the governor undertook to di vest the people of the right of election, and appointed alcaldes himself, ordering the four regidors to be arrested. The peo ple assembled and came to an unanimous resolution to abandon the place, and they fulfilled their engagement, retiring to Caracas, Valentia, and other places.

The affair being made known in Spain, the regidors were released, and the inhabitants invited to return ; they never returned ; but some of them selecting the position of Laguayra, it be came the port of entry and clearance for Caracas, and has continued to be. The places of note west of Laguayra are Catia, Arrecifes, La Cruz, Coroni, Ocumare bay, Turia mo, Barbaruta, and Porto Cabello. The veil which appeared suspended above us, now seemed to rise and expose the summit of the first ranges of the Sierra, holding vast fleeces of snow-white clouds behind them, and concealing ranges in yet greater elevation and remote succes sion, which soon appeared in more distinctness, but still clad with clouds in the utmost distance. The line of the Sierra Avilla, which is the mountain that separates Caracas from the coast, was now clearly defined, but the Silla, like a coy damsel of the region, still retired her head, scarcely con cealed by a gauzy veil, the skirt of which flared in the air to the south-west.

A brighter light above, and the shadows of the mountain upon the glassy waters followed, and pre sented a most sublime spectacle — still further adorned by the lofty Silla, which had now cast its veil of clouds away, and exposed its double summit to the admiring visitor. Along the mountain foot a white vanishing line appeared— it was the beating surf, not yet to be distinguished by the ear. No level space for human foot was visible between the steep declivity and unceasing surge. Drawing still nearer, the eye is engaged by a brighter steady white line on the sea verge ; and behind, the appearance of a longer, higher range, of less distinctness — it is the long rampart that marks the port and the town of Laguayra, which seems stuck up against the face of the steep. Attracted to the right, a small promontory thrust into the sea, appears covered with Palmyra palms, which half conceal houses in the rear, on higher ground.

It is Maquiteia, a handsome village about half a mile west of Laguayra. Before the eye is satisfied in con templating this refreshing tropical picture, the objects appear more distinct and enlarged ; but the face of the mountain between Maquiteia and Laguayra displays a dreary and desolate aspect, of dusky and grey shades ; projecting rocks and broken red and yellow soil, sterile and destitute of verdure, as if the ocean had been pelting at it for ages, and left it alike bare of fruits and of vegetation. There are however, scattered on distant spots, three or four species of Cactus, im perceptible in the distance ; and some Agaves or American Aloes, have seized upon some " coigns of vantage," and with giant arms hold places in their native soil. The whole line of coast from Cape Codera is now displayed, and west of Maquiteia, about three miles, stands Cape Blanco, but with less altitude than made it formerly remarkable : it was sometimes spoken of as the west horn "» of a bay, of which Codera was the east ; but without any ether than a remote similitude.

The Silla is now also more distinct, and the form of its summit, which has been named from a distant resemblance to a saddle, here gives its shape distinctly ; the eastern summit being the highest, is said to resemble the fore part or pommel of a saddle, and the western or lowest summit compared to the cantle or hind part of the seat. The shore is no longer still nor silent, the roar of the beating surf is unceasing ; and there appears a space between the surge and the mountain which presents a picture as minute, busy, and agitated as an anthill whose inmates are disturbed. Men and mules are the actors in this busy scene ; a spacious causeway, the product of very great arid judiciously applied labour, leads from the postern or Caracas gate to Maquiteia, and is also the high road to Caracas.

As seen from the dis tance, it appears no broader than a ribbon, though it is, in many places, 60 and 100 feet broad, and is constructed about ten feet above the ordinary water line. As the sun gained the south-west, the shadows of the Sierra slanted along the coast to the eastward, and left the horizon bright and clear, and, about two o'clock of the 18th, we came to anchor with 14 fathoms of cable out, in a position about equidistant from Laguayra and Maquiteia, and a mile from the shore. The three fortifications behind the town, the works in front, and the village of Palms on our right, were now perfectly distinct, and proportionably interesting. The warmth of the glowing sun, the bright at mosphere, and the grove of palms, gave to me an Ori ental resemblance ; and all appeared to more advantage, except the battered aspect of the Sierra, on nearer approach.