What I saw in California; being the journal of a tour, by E. Bryant [Abridged.] To which is added, California as it is, and as it may be; a guide to the gold regions. By Dr. Wierzbicki ... With a map, etc

Front matter

WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA, AND CALIFORNIA AS IT IS Is,, AS IT MAY BE. PRICE HALF- A- CROWN. TASMANIA : HENRY DOWLINC, J UN., LAUNCESTON. BE HAD OF ALL BOOKSELI. WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA: BEING THE JOURNAL OF A TOUR, BY EDWIN BRYANT, ESQ., LATE ALCALDE OF SAN FRANCISCO TO WHICH IS ADDED CALIFORNIA AS IT IS, AND AS IT MAY BE ; A GUIDE TO THE COLD REGIONS, BY DR. WIERZBICKI, SAN FRANCISCO. ©Saitfi a iHap of H)r (Soltr JSrgion. LAUNCESTON : HENRY DOWLING, JUN., BOOKSELLER AND PRINTER: WALCH & SON, HOBART TOWN. 1850. *,* The following pages are reprinted from the latest published works on Cat fornia. The first part is from the journal of Mr. Bryant (published in Adv in 1848, and subsequently, in 1849, in London). Mr. Bryant was formerly al at San Francisco, and journeyed overland from the United States, The present reprint commences at that point in Mr. Bryant's interesting memoir when h. made the valley of the Sacramento.

The second part of the work comprises tttf greater portion of a pamphlet by Dr. Wierzbicki, published in San Francisc-j city: so lately as September last. It is believed that this publication will supph desideratum so much needed in the Australian colonies, to meet the numerous en quiries with reference to the new State of California. Launceston, May, 1850. LAUNCESTON : HENRY DOWLING, PRINTER. CONTENTS. WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA. CHAP. I.— p. 1. Geographical sketch of California — Its political and social institutions — Colorado river — Valley and river of San Joaquin — Former government. CHAP. IT.— p. 4. First settlement of the missionaries — Population — Characteristics of white population — Employments — Pleasures and amusements — Position of women — Soil — Grasses — Vegetable productions — Agriculture — Fruits — Cattle — Horses — Wild animals — Minerals — Climate — Flora — 'Water-power — Timber — Religion.

CHAP. III.— p. 16. First view of the Sacramento valley — A body of California Indians — Live-oak acorns — Arrive at Johnson's — Californian newspaper — Soil of Johnson's rancho — ■ His crop? — Price of flour — Soil of the Sacramento valley — Sinclair's rancho — A white woman — Sutter's fort — New Helvetia — Interview with Captain Sutter. CHAP. IV.— p. 24. California Indians — Captain Sutter — Difficulties in making his first settlement in California — Labouring Indians — Propensity for gambling — Captain Sutter's coin — Captain Sutter's wheat crops in 1846 — Dine with Captain Sutter; description of the dinner — Oppressive impost-duties of the Mexican government. CHAP. V.— p. 33. Resume my travels — Leave New Helvetia for San Francisco — Coscumne river — Mickelemes river— Ford of the San Joaquin — Extensive plain — Tule marshes — Large droves of wild horses and elk — Arrive at Dr. Marsh's — Vineyard — Californian grape — Californian wine — Aguardiente — Mormon settlements — Arrive at mission of San Jose — Ruinous and desolate appearance of the mission — Foul lodgings.

Appendix

.— p. 124. CALIFORNIA AS IT IS. Chap. I. — The country and its resources 133 Chap. II. — The gold region 141 Chap. III. — Mining — Advice to miners 144 Chap. IV. — Towns of California 156 Directions for entering the harbor of San Francisco .. .. 163 Regulations for the harbor and port of San Francisco . . . . 164 WHAT I SAW IN CALIFORNIA, IN 1846 AND 1847.

Chapter I

Geographical sketch of California — Its political and social institutions — Colorado river — Valley and river of San Joaquin — Former government. The district of country known, geographically, as Upper California, is bounded on the north by Oregon, the forty-second degree of north latitude being the boundary line between the two territories ; on the east by the Rocky mountains and the Sierra de ios Mimbres, a continuation of the same range ; on the south by Sonora and Old or Lower California, and on the west by the Pacific Ocean. Its extent from north to south is about 700 miles, and from east to west from 600 to 800 miles, with an area of about 400,000 square miles. A small portion only of this extensive ter ritory is fertile or inhabitable by civilized man, and this portion consists chiefly in the strip of country along the Pacific Ocean, about 700 miles in length, and from 100 to 150 in breadth, bounded on the east by the Sierra Nevada, and on the west by the Pacific.

In speaking of Upper California, this strip of country is what is generally referred to. The largest river of Upper California is the Colorado or Red, which has a course of 1000 miles, and empties into the Gulf of California in lat. about 32c north. But little is kuown of the region through which this stream flows. The report of trappers, however, is that the river is canoned between high mountains and precipices a large portion of its course, aDd that its banks and the country generally through which it flows are arid, .7 GEOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. sandy, and barren. Green and Grand rivers are its principal upper tribu taries, both of which rise in the Rocky mountains and within the territories of the United States. The Gila is its lowest and largest branch, emptying into the Colorado, just above its mouth.

Sevier and Virgin rivers are also tributaries of the Colorado. Mary's river rises near latitude 42° north, and has a course of 400 miles, when its waters sink in the sands of the desert. This river is not laid down on any map which I have seen. The Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers, have each a course of from 300 to 400 miles, the 3rst flowing from the north and the last from the south, and both emptying into the Bay of San Francisco at the same point. They water the large and fertile valley lying between the Sierra Nevada and the coast range of mountains. I subjoin a description of the valley and river San Joaquin, from the pen of a gentleman (Dr. Marsh) who bas explored the river from its source to its mouth : "This noble valley is the first undoubtedly in California, and one of the most magnificent in the world.

It is about 500 miles long, with an average width of about fifty miles. It is bounded on the east by the Great Snowy mountains, and on tbe west by the low range, which in many places dwindles into insignificant hills, and has its northern terminus at the Strait of Carquines, on the Bay of San Francisco, and its southern near Colorado river. " The river San Joaquin flows through the middle of the valley for about half of its extent, and thence diverges towards the eastern mountain, in which it has its source. About sixty mile3 further south is the northern end of the Buena Vista lake, which is about one hundred miles long, and from ten to twenty wide. Still farther south, and near the western side of the valley, is another and much smaller lake. " The great lake receives about a dozen tributaries on its eastern side, which all rise in the great range of the Snowy mountains.

Some of these streams flow through broad and fertile valleys within the mountain's range, and from thence emerging, irrigate the plains of the great valley for the distance of twenty or thirty miles. The largest of these rivers is called by the Spanish inhabitants the River Reyes, and falls into the lake near its northern end ; it is a well-timbered stream, and flowa through a GEOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. country of great fertility and beauty. The tributaries of the San Joaquin are all on the east side. " On ascending the stream we first meet with the Stanislaus, a clear, rapid mountain stream, some forty or fifty yards wide, with a considerable depth of water in its lowest portion. The Mormons have commenced a settlement, called New Hope, and built some two or three houses near the mouth. " There are considerable bodies of fertile land along the river, and the higher plains afford good pasturage.

"Ten miles higher up is the river of the Tawalomes; it is about the size of the Stanislaus, which it greatly resembles, except that the soil is somewhat better, and th3t it particularly abounds with salmon. "Sene thirty miles farther comes in the Merced, much the largest of the t ibutaries of the San Joaquin. The lands along and between the tribu .aries of the San Joaquin and the lake of Buena Vista form a fine pastoral region, with a good proportion of arable land, and a very inviting field for emigration. The whole of this region has been but imperfectly explored ; enough, however, is known, to make it certain that it is one of the most desirable regions on the continent. " In the valleys of the rivers which come down from the Great Snowy mountains, are vast bodies of pine, and red-wood, or cedar timber, and the streams afford water-power to any desirable amount.

"Tbe whole country east of the San Joaquin and the water communi cation which connects it with the lakes, is considered, by the best judges, to be particularly adapted to the culture of the vine, which must necessa rily become one of the principal agricultural resources of California." The Salinas river empties into the Pacific, about twelve miles above Monterey. Bear river empties into the Great Salt lake. The other streams of California are all small. Besides the Great Salt lake and the Utah lake, there are numerous iraall lakes in the Sierra Nevada. The San Joaquin is connected vith Tule lake, or Lake Buena Vista, a sheet of water about eighty niles in length and fifteen in breadth. A lake, not laid down in ly map, and known as the Laguna among the Californians, is situated b FIRST SETTLEMENT OF THE MISSIONARIES. about sixty miles north of the Bay of San Francisco.

It is between forty and sixty mile3 in length. The valleys in its vicinity are highly fertile and romantically beautiful. In the viciuity of this lake there is a mountain of pure sulphur. There are also soda springs, and a great variety of other mineral waters and minerals. Tbe principal mountains west of the eastern boundary of California (the Rocky mountains) are the Bear river, Wahsatch, Utah, the Sierra Nevada, and the Coast range. The Wahsatch mountains form the eastern rim of the "great interior basin.;' There are numerous ranges in this desert basin, all of which run north and south, and are separated from each other by spacious and barren valleys and plains. The Sierra Nevada range is of greater elevation than the Rocky mountains. The summits of the most elevated peaks are covered with perpetual snow.

This and the Coast range run nearly parallel with the shore of the Pacific. The first is from one hundred to two hundred miles from the Pacific, and the last from forty to sixty miles. The valley between them is the most fertile portion of California. Upper California was discovered in 1548, by Cabrillo, a Spanish navi gator. In 1578, the northern portion of it was visited by Sir Francis Drake, who called it New Albion. It was first colonized by the Spaniards in 1768, and formed a province of Mexico until after the revolution in that country. There have been numerous revolutions and civil wars in California within the last twenty years, but up to the conquest of the country by the United States in 1846, Mexican authority has generally been exercised over it.

Chapter II

First settlement of the missionaries — Population — Characteristics of white population — Employments — Pleasures and amusements — Position of women — Soil — Grasses — Vegetable productions — Agriculture — Fruits — Cattle — Horses — Wild animals — Minerals — Climate — Flora — Water-power — Timber — Religion. It was during the month of November 1602, the sun just retiring behind the distant highland which forms the back-ground of a spacious harbor ESTABLISHMENT OF MISSIONS. 5 at the southernmost point of Alta California, that a small fleet of vessels might have been seen directing their course as if in search for a place of anchorage; their light sails drawn up, while the larger ones swelling now and then to the action of the breeze, bore them majestically along, forcing their way through the immense and almost impenetrable barrier of sea weed to a haven, which at the remote period stated was considered the unexplored region of the north.

The fleet referred to hauled their wind to the shore, and passing a bluff point of land on their left, soon came to anchor; but not until the shades of night had cast a gloom over the scene so recently lighted up with the gorgeous rays of a setting sun. This was the commencement, or rather preliminary mark of civiliza tion in this country, by the Spaniards, (if so it can be called,) and on the following morning a detachment was landed, accompanied by a friar, to make careful investigations of the long ridge of highland which serves as a protection to the harbor from the heavy north-west gales. They found, as reported, an abundance of small oak and other trees, together with a great variety of useful and aromatic herbs ; and from its summit they beheld the extent and beauty of the port, reaching as they said full three leagues from where the vessel lay at anchor.

A large tent was erected ou the sandy beach to answer the purpose of a church, where the friar might perform mass, and by directions of the commanding officers, the boats were drawn up for repairing, wells were dug, parties were sent off to cut wood, while guards were placed at convenient distances to give notice of the approach of any hostile force. The latter precaution was hardly carried into effect, ere a large body of naked Indians were seen moving along the shore, armed with bows and arrows. A friar, pro tected by six soldiers, was dispatched to meet them, who, making signs of peace by exhibiting a white flag and throwing handfuls of sand high into the air, influenced them to lay aside their arms, when affectionately em bracing them, the good old friar distributed presents of beads and neck laces, with which tbey eagerly adorned their persons.

This manifestation of good feeling induced them to draw near to where the commander had landed with his men, but perceiving so large a number, they retreated to a neighboring knoll, and from thence sent forward to the Spaniards ten ESTABLISHMENT OF MISSIONS. aged females, who, possessing apparently so much affability, were pre sented immediately with gifts and instructed to go and inform their people of the friendly disposition cherished for them by the white strangers. This was sufficient to implant a free intercourse with the Indians, who daily visited the Spaniards and bartered off their skins and furs in exchange for bread and trinkets. But at length the time arrived for the fleet to depart, and they proceeded northward, visiting in their course Monterey and Mendocino, where the same favorable result attended the enterprise as at other places, and they returned in safety to New Spain.

So successful had been the character of this expedition throughout the entire period of its execution, that an enthusiasm prevailed in the minds of the Spaniards, which could only be assuaged by an attempt to conquer and christianise the inhabitants of that distant portion of the American continent. Many were the fruitless results of the Spanish adventurer — numerous were the statements of his toil and labor, til! at length a formidable attempt, under the patronage and protection of Don Gaspar de Portola and Father Junipero Serra, successfully achieved the desired object for which it was planned and executed. At San Diego, where, a centuiy and a half before, the primitive navigators, under Cortez communed with the rude and unsophisticated native — there, were the zealous devotee erected his altar on the burning sand, and with offerings of incense and prayer hallowed it to God, as the birth place of Christianity in that region — upon that sainted spot commenced the spiritual conquest; the cross was erected, and the holy missionaries who accompanied the expedition entered heart and soul upon their religious duties.

Successful in all they undertook, their first establishment in a short time was completed, and drawing around it the converted Indians in large numbers, the rude and uncultivated fields gave place to agricultural improvement — the arts and sciences gradually obtained foundation where before all was darkness, and day after day hundreds were added to the folds of the holy and apostolic church. Thus tri umphantly proceeded the labors of the Spanish conquerors! In course of time other institutions were founded at Santa Barbara, Monterey, and DESTRUCTION OF THE MISSIONS. San Francisco, where at each place a military fortress was erected, which served for their protection, and to keep in check such of the natives who were disinclined to observe the regulations of the community. The natives formed an ardent and almost adorable attachment for their spiritual fathers, and were happy, quite happy, under their jurisdiction.

Ever ready to obey them, the labor in the field and workshop met with a ready compliance ; and so prosperous were the institutions that many of them became wealthy in the increase of their cattle and great abundance of their granaries. It was no unusual sight to behold the plains for leagues literally spotted with bullocks, and large fields of corn and wheat covering acres of ground. This state of things continued until the period when Mexico underwent a change in its political form of government, which so disheartened the feelings of the missioraries, that they became regardless of their establishments, and suffered them to decline for want of attention to their interests. At length, civil discord and anarchy among the Californians prepared a more effective measure for their destruction, and they were left to the superintendence of individuals who plundered them of ail that was desirable or capable of removal.

Thus, the govern.__.3nt commenced the robbery, and its hirelings carried it out to the letter, destroying and layiug waste wherever they were placed. In order to give the inhabitants a share of the spoils, some of them were permitted to slaughter the cattle by contract, which was an equal division of the proceeds, and the contractors vere careful when they delivered one hide to a mission, to reserve two for themselves, in this wny following up the example of their superiors. r i This important revolution in the systematic order of the monastic insti tutions took place in 1836, at which period the most important of them possessed property, exclusive of their lands and tenements, to the value of two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. At the present day they have but a little more than dilapidated walls and restricted boundaries of terri tory.

Notwithstanding this wanton devastation of property, contrary to the opinion of many who were strongly in favor of supporting these religious institutions, the result proved beneficial to the country at large. Individual enterprise succeeded as the lands became distributed, so that STATISTICS. the Californian beheld himself ao longer dependent on the bounty of his spiritual directors, but, on the contrary, he was enabled to give support to them, from the increase and abundance of his own possessions. Subsequent to the expulsion of the Mexicans, numbers of new farms ■were created, and hundreds of Americans were scattered over the country. Previous to 1830, the actual possessions of horned cattle by the rancheros did not exceed one hundred thousand ; but iu 1842, accordicg to a fair estimate, taken by one on the spot, the number had increased to four hundred thousand ; so that the aggregate is equal to that held by the missions when in tbeir most flourishing condition.

The present number is not much, if any, short of one million. Presuming a statistical knowledge of this country, before and after the missionary institutions were secularized, may be interesting, I will insert the following returns of 1831 and 1842, to contrast the same with its present condition : — let. In 1831 the white population throughout Alta-Califor_iia did not exceed 4500, while the Indians of the the twenty-one missions amounted to 19,000; in 1842 the former had increased to 7000, and the latter decreased to about 5000. 2nd. In the former year the number of horned cattle, including individual possessions, amounted to 500,000 ; in the latter to 400,000. 3rd. At the same period the number of sheep, goats, and pigs, was 321,000; at the latter, 32,000. 4th. In 1831 the number of horses, asses, mules, &c, was 64,000; in 1842 it was 30,000. 5th.

The produce in corn, &c, had decreased in amuch greater proportion — that of seventy to four. The amount of duties raised at the custom-house in Monterey, from 1839 to 1842, was as follows, viz, 1839 85,613 dollars. 1840 72,308 „ 1841 ,. .. 101,150 „ 1842 73,729 „ The net amount of revenue seldom exceeded in any year, eighty POPULATION. thousand dollars ; so that when a deficiency took place, to supply the ex penditure of government, it had been usual to call upon the missions for aid. Tbe value of the hides and tallow derived from the annual matanzas, may be estimated at 372,000 dollars. These two commodities, witb the exception of some beaver, sea-otter, and other furs, comprise the most. important part of the esportations, which, in addition, would augment the value of exports to 400,000 dollars.

The permanent population of that portion of Upper California situated between the Sierra Nevada and the Pacific, I estimate at 25,000. Of this number, 8000 are Hispano-Americans, 5000 foreigners, chiefly from the United States, and 12,000 Christianized Indians. There are considerable numbers of wild or Gentile Indians inhabiting the valley of the San Joaquin, and the gorges of tbe Sierra, not included in this estimate. They are probably as numerous as the Christian Indians. The Indian population inhabiting the region of the Great Salt Lake, Mary's river, the oasis of the Great Desert Basin, and the country bordering the Rio Colorado and its tributaries, being spread over a vast extent of territory, are scarcely seen, although the aggregate number is considerable. The Californians do not differ materially from the Mexicans, from whom they are descended, in other provinces of that country.

Physically and intellectually, the men, probably, are superior to the same race farther south, and inhabiting the countries contiguous to the city of Mexico. The intermixture of blood with the Indian and negro races has been less, although it is very perceptible. The men, as a general fact, are well made, with pleasing, sprightly countenances, and possessing much grace and ease of manners, and viva city of conversation. But hitherto they have had little knowledge of the world and of events, beyond what they have heard through Mexico, and derived from the super-cargos of merchant-ships and whalemen touching upon the coast. There art ao public schools in the country — at least I never heard of one. There are but few books. General Vallejo has a library with many valuable books, and this is the only one I saw, although there are others; but they are rare, and confined to a few families. b CHARACTERISTICS.

The men are almost constantly on horseback, and a3 horsemen excel any I have seen in other parts of the world. From the nature of their pursuits and amusements, they have brought horsemanship to a perfection challenging admiration and exciting astonishment. They are trained to the horse and the use of the lasso, (riata, as it is here called) from their infancy. The first act of a child, when he is able to stand alone, is to throw his toy-lasso around the neck of a kitten ; his next feat is performed on the dog ; his next upon a goat or calf; and so on, until he mounts the horse, and demonstrates his skill upon horses and cattle. The crowning feat of dexterity with the riata, and of horsemanship, combined with daring courage, is the lassoing of the grisly bear. This feat is performed frequently upon this targe and ferocious animal, but it is sometimes fatal to the performer and his horse.

Well drilled, with experienced military leaders, such as would inspire them with confidence in their skill and prowess, the Californians ought to be the finest cavalry in the world. The Californian saddle is, I venture to assert, the best that has been in vented, for the horse and the rider. Seated in one of these, it is scarcely possible to be unseated by any ordinary casualty. The bridle-bit ia clum sily made, but so constructed that the horse is compelled to obey the rider upon the slightest intimation. The spurs are of immense size, but they answer to an experienced horseman the double purpose of exciting the horse, and of maintaining the rider in his seat under difficult circumstances. For the pleasures of the table they care but little. With his horse and trappings, his sarape and blanket, a piece of beef and a tortilla, the Cali fornian is content, so far as his personal comforts are concerned.

But he is ardent in his pursuit of amusement and pleasure, and these consist chiefly in the fandango, the game of monte, horse-racing, and bull and bear-baiting. They gamble freely and desperately, but pay their losses with the most strict punctuality, at any and every sacrifice, and manifest but little concern about them. Th*y are obedient to their magistrates; and in all disputed cases decided by them, acquiesce without utter ng a word of complaint. They have been accused of treachery and insincerity. Whatever may have been the grounds for these accusations in particular instances, I know not; but, judging from my own observation and experience, they are as free from these qualities us our own people. Production.' — AGiucuI.TUftiL 11 While the men are employed iu attending to the herds of cattle and horses, and engaged in their other amusements, the women (I speak of the middle classes on the rancbos) superintend and perform most of the drudgery appertaining to house-keeping, and the cultivation of the gardens, from whence are drawn such vegetables as are consumed at the table.

These are few, consisting of frijoles, potatoes, onions, and chiles. The assistants in these labors are the ludian men and women, legally reduced to servitude. The soil of that portion of California, between the Sierra Nevada aud the Pacific, will compare, in point of fertility, with any that I have seen elsewhere. As I have already described such portions of it as have come under my observation, it is unnecessary for me here to descend to parti culars. Wheat, bailey, and other small grains, with hemp, flax, and tobacco, can be produced in all the valleys, without irrigation. To produce maize, potatoes, and other garden vegetables, irrigation is necessary. Oats and mustard grow spontaneously, with such rankness as to be con sidered nuisances upon the soil. I have forced my way through thousands cf acres of these, higher than my head when mounted on a horse.

The oats grow to the summits of the hills, but they are not here so tall and rank as in the valleys. The varieties of grasses are greater than on tbe Atlantic side of the continent, and far more nutritious. I have seen seven different kinds of clover, several of them in a dry state, depositing a seed upon the ground so abundant as to cover it, which is lapped up by the cattle and horses and other animals, as corn or oats, when threshed, would be with us. All the grasses, and they cover the entire country, are heavily seeded, aud when ripe, are as fattening to stock as the grains which we feed to our beef, horses, and hogs. Hence it is unnecessary to the sustenance or fattening of stock, to raise corn for their consumption. Agriculture is in its rudest state. The farming implements which have been used by the Californians, with few exceptions, are the same as were used three hundred years ago, when Mexico was conquered by Corte£.

A description of them would be tedious. The plough, however, which merely scratches the ground, is the fork of a small tree. It is the same HORSES. pattern as the Roman plough, two thousand years ago. Other agricultural implements are of the same description. The Americans, and other foreigners, are, however, introducing the American plough, and other American farming tools, the consequence of which has already been, to some extent, to produce a revolution in agriculture. The crops of wheat and barley, which I saw about the 1st of June, while passing through the country on my journey to the United States, exceeded in promise any which I have seen in the United States. It was reported to me that Captain Sutter's crop of wheat, for 1847, wouM amount to 75,000 bushels. The natural vegetable productions of California will be sufficiently noticed in the course of this work for the reader to form a correct esti mate of the capabilities of the soil and climate.

It is supposed by some, that cotton, sugar, and rice, could be produced here. I do uot doubt that there are portions of the country where these crops would thrive; but I question whether, generally, they could be cultivated to advantage. Nearly all the fruits of the temperate and tropical climates are produced in perfection in California, as has before been stated. The principal product of the country has been its cattle and horses. The cattle are, I think, the largest and finest I ever saw, and the beef is more delicious. There are immense herds of these, and their hides and tallow, when slaughtered, have hitherto composed the principal exports from the country. If I were to hazard an estimate of the nun_ber of hides annually exported, it would be coujectural, and not worth much. I would suppose, however, at this time (1847) that the number would not fall much short of 150,000, and a corresponding number of arrobas (25 pounds) of tallow.