What I saw in California: being the journal of a tour by the emigrant route and south pass of the Rocky Mountains, across the continent of North America, the Great Desert Basin and through California in the years 1846, 1847

Front matter

WHAT I SAW II CALIFOEIIA: BEING THF, JOURNAL OF A TOUR, BY THE EMIGRANT ROUTE AND SOUTH PASS OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ACKOSS THE CONTINENT OF NORTH AMERICA, THE GREAT DESERT BASIN, AND THROUGH CALIFORNIA, IN THE YEARS 1846, 1847. All vvuicn I saw, a.vd part of which I was." — Dryden. BY EDWIN BRYANT, LITE ALCALDE OF ST. FRANCISCO. SEVENTH EDITION. WITH AN APPENDIX, COHTAININO ACCOUNT* OF THE GOLD MINES, VARIOUS ROUTES, OUTFIT, ETC, ETC. NEW-YORK : P. APPLETON & COMPANY, 200 BROADWAY. PHILADELPHIA : GEO S. AITLETON, 1C4 CHESNUT-STREET. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1644,, By D. APPLETON & COMPANY, n the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. > TO ROBERT FRAZER, SEN., ESQ. OF LEXINGTON, KENTUCKY €l)iB -Oolnme 18 MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BT HIS FRIEND THE AUTHOR. -v

Preface

. In the succeeding pages, the author has endeavored tc furnish a faithful sketch of the country through which he travelled — its capabilities, scenery, and population. He has carefully avoided such embellishment as would tend to impress the reader with a false or incorrect idea of what he saw and describes. He has invented nothing to make his narrative more dramatic and amusing than the truth may render it. His design has been to furnish a volume, entertaining and instructive to the general reader, and reliable and useful to the traveller and emigrant to the Pacific. If he has succeeded in this, it is as much as he can hope. The facts in reference to those military and naval operations in California which did not come under his personal observation, have been derived from authentic sources. THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Leave Louisville— Independence, Mo.— New-Mexican teamsters— Outfitting— Masonic celebration — Improbable rumors — Mormons — Indians- Marvellous stories • Page 13

Chapter II

Appearance of the country — Vexatious difficulties of starting — First camp —Violent thunder-storm— Four-footed tragedian— First view of the prairies — Soil — Flowers — Emigrant camp — Frontier family — Thunder-storm on the prairie — Lodgings on the frontier — More of the Mormons — Rainbow on the prairies — Indian Creek — Place of organization — Straying of cattle and horses — Election on the prairies — Shawnee Indians, 19

Chapter III

Leave Indian Creek — " Catching up" — A corral — Droves of mules from New Mexico — Santa F<§ traders returning — Dismal accounts of the journey — Leave the Santa Y6 trail — Wild onions — Difficult crossings — Potawattomie Indian — Ex-governor Boggs and other emigrants come up — Reasons assigned for emigration — Solitude of the prairies? — More Indians — First news of war with Mexico — Signs of dissolution of the party — An adventure almost — Extreme heat — Sufferings of cattle — Division — Kansas River — A luxury in the wilderness — New-comers — Rumors of war confirmed, 32

Chapter IV

Methodist Mission on the Kansas — Soldier Creek — Lustration — A ruined Indian town — A rose in the wilderness — Another division — Kansas Indian towns — Ki-he-ga-wa-chuck-ee — Prairie potato — Mountain trappers — Beauty of scenery and fertility of soil — Vermilion Creek — Brilliant meteor — Big Blue River — Prairie-pea — Legislation on the prairies, ... 45

Chapter V

Terrible storm — More legislation — Alcove spring — Honey — A death and funeral — Boat-launch— Blue River Rover — Soil and scenery along the Blue — Fresh graves — Pawnee country — Quarrels in camp — Withdrawal of the Oregon emigrants — Indian hunters — Indian appetites — More fighting— Antelopes— False buffalo-chase — Blacksmithiug ou the plains, 60

Chapter VI

Sickness among the emigrants— Effects of ft-avel and exposure upon the appearance and habits of our party— Method of travel— The Little Blue River— Change in the soil— A break-down— Platte River— Soil of the Platte bottom— Human bones— Buffalo bones— Post-offices— Islands of CONTENTS. the Platte — Bois de Vache — Mackinaw boats — Prairie-dog town — Rocky Mountain hunters, and boatmen — The bluffs of the Platte — Immense fungi — First buffaloes — Men in search of a doctor — Disposition among emigrants to take large doses of medicine— Effects often fatal — Barbarous surfrical operation — Distressing scene — Funeral — Wedding — Birth, ... 74

Chapter VII

Country becomes more arid and sterile — Return party from Oregon — Herds of buffalo — Dead oxen — Chalybeate spring at the ford of the Platte — Killing buffaloes — Buffalo meat — Resignation of Colonel Russell and other officers — Determination to change our mode of travel — Ash Hollow — General post-office — Grave opened by wolves — Chimney Rock in the distance — Court-House Rock — Fœtid water and tainted atmosphere — Quicksands — Near view of Court-House Rock — A mau in a fright — Near view of Chimney Rock — Scenery at Chimney Rock — Horse-trading — Furious storm — Scott's Bluff — First view of Rocky Mountains — Horse Creek — Fort Bernard — Fort Laramie — Sioux Indians — Beauty of the Sioux women — Sioux Lodges, 92

Chapter VIII

Procession of the Sioux — Purchase of mules — Extreme high prices for coffee, sugar, tobacco, flour, etc. — Shooting-match with the Sioux Indiaus — A return party from California — Denunciation of the country by them — Resume the journey on pack-mules — Vexatious of mule-packing — Canon of the Platte — First appearance of wild sage — View of the Rocky Mountains — -Another Oregon return party — Swarms of crickets — An extinct volcano — Green peas — A good supper — Frost in the mountains — Effects of earthquakes — Hunters and trappers: their numbers, habits, etc. — Celebration of the 4th of July — Gnats and mosquitoes — Joined by Mr. Buchanan — Alkaline lakes — Impure water, its effects — Sweet-water Mountains, Ill

Chapter IX

Independence Rock — Sweetwater River — Devil's Gate — A solitary traveller — Distant view of Wind River Mountains — Chalky Lakes — Deleterious effects of milk — Sickness in emigrating parties — Another return party from California — Buffalo-chase — Mortality among tho oxeu of tho emigrants — Wolves in chase of diseased oxen — .South Vase of the Rocky Mountains — Pacific Springs — Last view of tho Atlantic elope — Jacob's Tower — Little Sandy River— Troublesome visiters — The Mirage— Big Sandy River — Greenwood's Cutoff— Curious incident — Snake Indian huutiug-party, 125

Chapter X

Green River — Terrific storm— Desolate scenery — Black's Fork— Rainbow bluffs— Remarkable butte— Arrival at Fort Bridger— Messrs. Hastings and Hudspeth — Traders and trappers from Taos — Capt. Walker — Calilurnian horses—- Snow showers on the mountains — Resume our march by the new route via the Great Salt Lake — Cold weather — Ice in July — Bear Kivtr Difficult passage through the mountains — Elephant statue, CONTENTS

Chapter XI

More extreme cold weather — Ogden's Hole — Utah Indians — Weber River — Canons — Indian visiters — Disgusting practico — Great fires in the mountains — First view of the great Salt Lake — Salmon-trout — Great Salt Lake — A sunset on the lake — Broke my thermometer — Indian chase- Warm sulphur springs — More Indian visiters — Indian fruit-cake — Grasshopper jam — Mode of taking grasshoppers by the Indians, 150

Chapter XII

Utah Outlet and Lake — Enter the desert — Utah language — Col. Russell's nine-shooter — Digger Indians — Utter sterility, 163

Chapter XIII

March over the great Salt Desert — Preparations — Singular illusion — Volcanic debris — Distant view of the great Salt Plain — Utter desolation — The mirage — Gigantic phantoms— Fata Morgana — Spectral army — Tempest on the Salt Plain — Clouds of salt — Instinct of mules — Mule-race — Excessive thirst — Arrival at oasis, and spring — Buchanan's well, 169

Chapter XIV

The oasis — Anxiety respecting our animals — Prodigious tall grass — Deserted Indian huts — Old trail of lost wagons — Desert valley — Extinct volcanoes — Mountain spring — Elevated camp — Vast extent of the Salt Plain — Sublimity of scenery — Moonlight view — Sunrise — Indian picket or game-trap — Another oasis— Altercation — Extreme heat of the sun — Wells in the desert— More desert valleys — Stream of running water — View of Mary's River, and valley — Indian signal-fires, „ 182

Chapter XV

Mary's river Indians — Their fleetness — Mary's river — Unexpected and singular meeting — Applegate's exploring party from Oregon — Energy of the emigrant population on the Pacific — More Indian visitors — Large herds of antelopes — Flora of Mary's river — A merry Indian — Indian fish-trap — Extensive boiling springs — Rain in the desert — Large body of Indians — Indian foot-race with our mules 194

Chapter XVI

Refreshing rain — Dense smoky vapor — Scarcity of provisions — Horses giving out — Dismal journey — Soup of fresh-water shellfish — Agreeable meeting — Obtain a supply of provisions — Merry Digger Indian visiters — An Indian coil — Petrifactions — Sink of Mary's river — Bitter waters — The desert between Mary's and Truckee river — Toilsome march — Unexpected refreshment — Remarkable boiling springs, 206

Chapter XVII

Mirage— Phantom cataract— Signs of water— Truckee river— Insanity produced by apprehension and excitement- -Enter the California mountains—Mountain forests— Mountain valley— Truckee river Indians- Cold nights— Mountain lake-Origin of the name of Truckee river and lake— Scenery of the Sierra Nevada— Log-cabiu erected by emiorants in CONTENTS. distress — Mountain raspberry — Pass of the Sierra — Uber valley — Spring in August — An attack by hornets — Beautiful encampmont — Human skull, 218

Chapter XVIII

Bear Valley — Provisions exhausted — California quail — Manzanita — The pine-nut — Deep hollow — Evergreen oak — First view of the Sacramento valley — A body of California Indians — Live-oak acorns — Arrive at Johnsou's — Indian dandy — Cheering and astonishing news from Mexico — Obtain food — A Californian newspaper, 234

Chapter XIX

Soil of Johnson's rancho — His crops — Price of flour — Soil of the Sacramento valley — Sinclair's rancho— A white woman — Sutter's Fort — New Helvetia — Interview with Captain Sutler — Reflections upon our journey — Table of distances from Independence to Sau Francisco, ...244

Chapter XX

Account of tho disasters to the emigrating parties of 1846 — The Oregon emigrants— Causes of delay which resulted in fatal consequences — Generosity of the people of San Francisco, and Capt. Sutter — John Sinclair's statement — Dreadful sufferings of the first party who crossed on the snows — George McKiustry's statement — Journal of one of tho sufferers — List of those who perished — Particulars of the dnath of George Donner and wife — Keysburg's cannibalism — Interment of the bones by Gen. Kearuy's party in June, 1847, 249

CHAPTER XX

f. California Indians — Captain Sutter — Difficulties in making his first settlement iu California — Laboring Indian's — Propensity for gambling — Captain Sutter's coin — Account of their games — Food of tho Indians — Captain Sutter's wheat crops in 1H46 — Scarcity of flouring-mills — Water-power — Hemp — Dine with Captain Sutter; description of tho dinner — Oppressive impost-duties of the Mexican government — Indian rancherias — Indian orgies — Sacramento river — Salmon — New Helvetia — Indian sweat-house — Reported Indian invasion by the Walla- Wallas — Description of tho Walla-Wallas, 265

Chapter XXII

Geographical sketch of California — Its political and social institutions — Colorado river — Valley aud rivur of San Joaquin — Former government — Presidios — Missions — Ports and commerce, 275

Chapter XXIII

Leave San Francisco for Sonoma — Sonoma creek — " Bear men" — Islands in the bay — Liberality of Uncle Sam to sailors — Sonoma— Beautiful country — General Vall6jo — Senora VallÆjo — Thomas O. Larkin, U. S. Consul Signs of rain — The seasons in California — More warlike rumors from the south — Mission of San Rafael — An Irish rauchero — Sausolito — Return to San Francisco — Meet Lippincott— Discomfort of Californian houses, "*°b CONTENTS.

Chapter XXIV

Resume my travels— Leave New Helvetia for San Francisco— Coscumne river— Mickelemes river— Ford of the San Joaquin— Extensive plain— Tule marshes— Large droves of wild horses ate elk— Arrive at Dr. Marsh's— Vineyard— Californian grape— Californian wine— Aguardiente — Mormon settlements on the San Joaquin — Californian beef- Cattle— Grasses of California— Horses — Breakfast— Leave Dr. Marsh's Arrive at Mr. Livermore's — Comforts of his dwelling — Large herds of cattle — Sheep — Swine— Californian senora — Slaughtering of a bullock — Fossil oyster-shells — Skeleton of a whale on a high mountain — Arrive at mission of San Jose" — Ruinous and desolate appearance of the mission — Pedlers— Landlady — Filth — Gardens of the mission — Fruit orchards — Empty warehouses and workshops — Foul lodgings, 299

Chapter XXV

Armies of fleas— Leave the mission — Clover — Wild mustard — A carreta — Family travelling — Arrive at Pueblo de San Jose^ — Capt. Fisher — Description of the Pueblo — The embarcadero — Beautiful and fertile valley of the Pueblo — Absence of architectural taste in California — Town squirrels — Fruit garden — Grapes — Tropical fruits — Gaming rooms — Contrast between Californian and American gamesters — Leave San Jose" — ■ Beautiful avenue — Mission of Santa Clara — Rich but neglected lands — ■ Effects of a bad government — A senora on the road-side — Kindness of Californian women — Fast riding — Cruel treatment of horses — Arrive at the mission of San Francisco — A poor but hospitable family — Arrive at the town of San Francisco — W. A. LeidesdorfF, Esq., American vice-consul — First view of the Bay of sSan Francisco — Muchachos and Muchacas — Capt. Montgomery — U. S. sloop-of-war Portsmouth — Town of Sau Francisco ; its situation, appearance, population — Commerce of California — Extortion of the government and traders, 313

Chapter XXVI

Climate of San Francisco — Periodical winds — Dine on the Portsmouth — A supper party on shore — Arrival of Commodore Stockton* at San Francisco — Rumors of rebellion from the south — Californian court — Trial by jury — Fandango — Californian belles — American pioneers of the Pacific — Reception of Commodore Stockton — Sitga — Captain Fremont leaves San Francisco for the south — Offer our services as volunteers, 325

Chapter XXVII

Sketch of the Bear revolution, and first conquest of California by the American troops— Capture of Lieut. De Arce— Capture of Sonoma, by Capt. Merritt and party, on the 14th of July— Proclamation of William B. Ide— Barbarous and brutal murder of Cowle and Fowler— Four fingered Jack— Capt. Ford's engagement with the Californians : defeat of tho latter— Flight of De la Torre— Proclamations of Castro-Capt iremont joins the revolutionists at Sonoma, on the 25th of July— Commodore Sloat s arrival in California-Raising of the U. S. flag at Monterey, I5an Francisco, Sonoma, and other places— Proclamation of Com. Sloal CONTENTS. 11 — Capt. Fremont occupies San Juan — Castro retreats to the South — Los .Angeles captured by Com. Stockton — Com. Stockton's proclamation, 333

Chapter XXVIII

Boat trip up the bay and the Sacramento to New Helvetia — An appeal to the alcalde — Kanackas— Straits of San Pueblo and Pedro — Straits of Carquinez — Town of Francisca — Feather-beds furnished by nature — Mouth of the Sacramento — Islands — Delaware Tom — A man who has forgotten his mother tongue — Salmon of the Sacramento— Indian fishermen — Arrive at New Helvetia, 340

Chapter XXIX

Disastrous news from the south — Return of Colonel Fremont to Monterey — Call for volunteers — Volunteer our services — Leave New Helvetia — Swimming tho Sacramento — First fall of rain— Beautiful and romantic valley — Precipitous mountains — Deserted house — Arable land of California — Fattening qualities of tlie acorn — Lost iu the Coast Mountains — Strange Indians — Indian women gathering grass-seed for bread — Indian guide — Laguna— Rough dialogue — Huntere' camp — " Old Greenwood" — Grisly bear meat — Greenwood's account of himself — His opinion of the Indians aud Spaniards — Retrace our steps — Severe storm — Nappa valley — .Arrive at Sonoma — More rain — Arrive at San Francisco— Return to New Helvetia, 346

Chapter XXX

Leave New Helvetia — Pleasant weather — Meet Indian volunteers — Tule-boats — Engagement between a party of Americans and Californians — Death of Capt. Burroughs and Capt. Foster — Capture of Thomas O. Larkin — Reconnaissance — San Juan Bautista — Neglect of the dead — sLarge herds of cattle — Join Col. Fremont, 358

Chapter XXXI

California battalion — Their appearance, and costume — List of tho officers — Commence our march to Los Angeles — Appoarance of the country in the vicinity of San Juan — Slaughter of beeves — Astonishing consumption of beef by the men — Beautiful morning — Ice — Salinas river and valley — Californian prisoners — Horses giving out from fatigue — Mission of Sau Miguel — Sheep — Mutton — March on foot — More prisoners taken — Death of Mr. Stanley — An execution— Dark night — Capture of the mission of San Luis Obispo — Orderly conduct and good deportment of the California battalion, 365

Chapter XXXII

Tremendous rain— Mission of San Luis Obispo— Gardens — Various fruits- Farm— Cactus Tuna— Calinche— Pumpkins— Trial of Tortoria Pico- Procession of women — Pico's pardon — Leave San Luis — Surf of the Pacific Captain Dana — Tempestuous night— Mission of St Ynes — Effects of drought— Horses exhaustod— St. Ynes mountain— View of the plain of Santa Barbara and the Pacific— A wretched Christnras-day— Descent CONTENTS. of St. Ynes mountain — Terrible storm — F-ightful destruction of horses — Dark night — What we are fighting for — Ajrive at Santa Barbara — Town deserted, 375

Chapter XXXIII

Santa Barbara — Picturesque situation — Fertility of the country — Climate — Population — Society — Leave Santa Barbara — Riucon — Grampus — Mission of St. Buenaventura — Fine gardens — Meet a party of mounted Californians — They retreat before us — Abundance of maize — Arrival of couriers from Com. Stockton — Effects of war upon the country — More of the enemy in sight — News of the capture of Los Angeles, by Gen. Koamy and Com. Stockton — Mission of San Fernando — The Maguey — Capitulation of the Californians — Arrive at Los Angeles — General reflections upon the march — Meet with old acquaintances, 384

Chapter XXXIV

Military operations of General Kearny and Commodore Stockton — Their reports to the Secretaries of War and Navy — Battles of San Pasqual and San Gabriel, 394

Chapter XXXV

City of Angels— Gardens — Vineyards — Produce of the vine in California General products of the country — Reputed personal charms of the females of Los Angeles — San Diego — Gold and quicksilver mines — Lower California — Bituminous springs— Wines — A Kontuckian among the angels— Missions of San Gabriel and San Luis Rey — Gen. Kearny and Com. Stockton leave for San Diego — Col. Fremont appointed Governor of California by Com. Stockton — Com. Shubrick's general order— Insurrection in the northern part of California suppressed — Arrival of Col. Cook at San Diego, 4O5

Chapter XXXVI

Leave Los Angeles for San Francisco— Don Andres Pico— A Californian returning from the wars— Domestic life at a rancho— Women in favor of peace— Hospitable treatment— Fandango— Singular custom— Arrive at banta Barbara— Lost in a fog— Valley of the Salinas— Californians wanting Yankee wives— High waters— Arrive at San Francisco, 417

Introduction

.

Leave Louisville — Independence, Mo. — Now-Mexican teamsters — Outfitting — Masonic celebration — Improbable rumors — Mormons — Indians — Marvellous stories. With my travelling companions for a journey over the Rocky Mountains to California, (Mr. R. T. Jacob and Mr. R. Ewing,) I left Louisville, Ky„ on the 18th of April, 184G ; and arrived at Independence, Mo., the starting-point, on the 1st of May. The town of Independence is situated about six miles from the Missouri river, on the southern, or left-hand side as you ascend it. The surrounding country is undulating, picturesque, and highly fertile. The growth of timber is various, and all indicative of a fat and exuberantly productive soil. Its population is about one thousand ; and, at this season, every man seems to be actively and profitably employed.

It has been for some years the principal outfitting point for the Santa F6 traders, and will probably so continue. Many of the houses around the public square are constructed of brick, but the majority of the buildings are frames. I noticed, among the busy multitude moving to and fro through the streets, a large number of New-Mexicans, and half-breed Indians, with their dusky complexions and ragged and dirty costumes. They were generally mounted on miserably poor mules or horses, and presented a most shabby appearance. Long trains of oxen,

INTRODUCTION.

. sometimes as many as ten or fifteen yokes, strung together and pulling huge tentedwagons, designed for some Santa Fe trading expedition, were moving about the streets, under the direction of numerous drivers, cracking their whips and making a great noise. Ox-teams seem to be esteemed as preferable, in these journeys, to either mules or horses. Following the example of others more experienced in these matters than ourselves, we determined to procure oxen, instead of mules, for our wagon, as originally we had intended. Accordingly I purchased three yokes of oxen, which it was believed would be a team sufficiently powerful for the transportation of our baggage and provisions. The average price paid per yoke was $21.67, which was considered very cheap. The streets were filled with oxen offered for sale by the neighboring farmers, but few of them were in good condition or well trained.

This was the case in regard to those we purchased ; but they were all young cattle, and improvable. Young and medium -sized cattle should be selected for a journey over the plains and mountains, in preference to the heavy-bodied and old ; the latter almost invariably become foot-sore, and give out after travelling a few hundred miles. We engaged a man, who had spent some time in the Rocky Mo'untains as a servant of the trading and trapping companies, for our driver and cook, and the cattle were placed under his charge to be educated. Although we had made many purchases in St. Louis, we found upon consultation after our arrival here, that there was a long list of small articles necessary for the journey yet to be procured. These I obtained at reasonable rates, of Messrs. Wilson & Clarke, who keep a general furnishing store for these expeditions.

Other mercantile houses in the place were also well supplied, and sold their wares at fair prices. The masonic lodges of Independence commemorated the departure of their brother masons, connected with the Santa Fe and emigrating parties, by a public procession and an ad dress, with other religious exercises. The lady-masons, that is, the wives of the members of the fraternity, walked in the procession to and from the church. A large audience was

INTRODUCTION.

. collected to hear the address, and participate in the exercises. The address was delivered by Mr. Reese, the grand-master, or principal masonic officer in the place. It was appropriate to the occasion, except, as I thought, that it was rather over strained in pathos. The orator, at the close of his discourse, consigned us all to the grave, or to perpetual exile. He was responded to in suitable and eloquent terms, on behalf of the Santa Fe traders and the emigrants to Oregon and California, by Col. Waul and Col. Russell. After the addresses, an original hymn, written for the occasion, as I understood, was sung with much feeling by the whole audience, to the tune of " Old Rosin the Bow." These farewell ceremonies were con cluded by an affecting prayer and benediction. The ladies of the auditory, I thought, were the most interested in and excited by these proceedings.

Some of them wept, and man ifested strong emotions. It rained heavily and incessantly the whole day on the 3d, and the unpaved streets of the town were so muddy and so much inundated with water, that walking about was quite out of the question. We therefore confined ourselves to our room in the hotel, where we had scores of visiters; who, finding it impossible to do any thing else, lounged and talked over the various rumors connected with the several expeditions. One of these rumors was, that five thousand Mormons were crossing, or had crossed, the Kansas river ; that they marched with ten brass fieldpieces, and that every man of the party was armed with a rifle, a bowie-knife, and a brace of huge revolving pistols. It was declared that they were inveterately hu.-.tile to the emigrant parties; and when the latter came up to the Mormons, they intended to attack and murder them, and appropriate to themselves their property.

Another rumor was, that the Kansas Indians had collected in large numbers on the trail, for the purpose of robbery and murder. A third was, that a party of five Englishmen, supposed to be emis saries of their government, had started in advance of us, bound for Oregon ; and that their object was to stir up the Indian tribes along the route, and incite them to deeds of hostility

INTRODUCTION.

. towards the emigrants; to attack their trains, rob, murder, and annihilate them. All these reports were sufficiently appalling to deter prudent men from incurring the dangers which they suggested, had there been any foundation for them to rest upon. Similar rumors will probably be current every year, about the time that emigrants are organizing their companies to start west. Amono* the gentlemen who honored us with their company dunno* the day, were — Mr. Webb, editor of the " Independence Expositor," to whom I was indebted for several acts of kindness ; Mr. Lippincott, a gentleman from New York, visiting- California for commercial purposes ; and Mr. Curry, late one of the editors of the " St. Louis Reveille," who will be our fellow traveller over the plains and mountains. Many tales of Rocky Mountain adventure, some of which were sufficiently dismal and tragical for the most horror-tinctured taste, others con trasting as widely therefrom as possible, were related.

The merits of the countries bordering the Pacific were discussed : by some they were denounced as abodes suitable only for the condemned and abandoned of God and m.an ; by others they were extolled, as being scarcely inferior in their attractions to the Eden described in the history of the creation, and present ing such fascinations as almost to call the angels and saints from their blissful gardens and diamond temples in the heavens. Such are the antipodes of opinion among those who rely upon second-hand testimony for their information, or are governed by their prejudices, in reference to this subject. A story was told in regard to the climate of California, which, because it serves to illustrate the extravagances above referred to, I will endeavor to recite. It was of a man who had lived in California, until he had reached the advanced age of two hun dred and fifty years!

Although that number of years had passed over him, such were the life-giving and youth-preserving qualities of the climate, that he was in the perfect enjoyment of his health, and every faculty of mind and body which he had ever possessed. But he was tired of life. Having lived so lom* in a turbulent and unquiet world, he anxiously desired some

INTRODUCTION.

. new state of existence, unincumbered with its cares, and unruf fled by its passions and its strifes. But notwithstanding all his efforts to produce a result which he so much wished, and for which he daily and hourly prayed to his Maker, health, and vigor, and life still clung to him — he could not shake them off. He sometimes contemplated suicide ; but the holy padres, to whom he confessed his thoughts, admonished him that that was damnation : he was a devout Christian, and would not disobey their injunctions. A lay friend, however, (his heir, probably,) with whom he daily consulted on this subject, at last advised him to a course which, he thought, would produce the desired result. It was to make his will, and other arrangements, and then travel into a foreign country. This suggestion was pleasing to our venerable Californian patriarch in search of death, and he immediately adopted it.

He visited an adjoining country ; and very soon, in accordance with his plan and his wishes, he took sick and died. In his will, however, he required his heir and executor, upon pain of disinheritance, to transport his remains to his own country and there entomb them. This requisition was faithfully complied with. His body was interred with great pomp and ceremony in his own cemetery, and prayers were rehearsed in all the churches for the rest of his soul. He was happy, it was supposed, in heaven, where, for a long series of years, he had prayed to be ; and his heir was happy that he was there. But what a disappointment ! Being brought back and interred in Californian soil, with the health-breathing Cal ifornian zephyrs rustling over his grave, the energies of life were immediately restored to his inanimate corpse !

Herculean strength was imparted to his frame, and bursting the prison walls of death, he appeared before his chapfallen heir reinvested with all the vigor and beauty of early manhood ! He submitted to his fate, and determined to live his appointed time. Stories similar to the foregoing, although absurd, and so intended to be, no doubt leave their impressions upon the minds of many, predisposed to rove in search of adventures and Eldorados. A party of gentlemen from Baltimore, bound for Santa Fe on a pleasure excursion, among whom were Messrs. Hoffman, 2*