Two Thousand Miles of Wandering in the Border Country, Lakeland and Ribblesdale, etc

Front matter

TWO THOUSAND MILES OF WANDERING IN THE BORDER COUNTRY, LAKELAND, AND RIBBLESDALE. LEEDS : PRINTED BY GOODALL AND SUDDICK, COOKRIDGE STREET. (Lido Ox>usan& tTltles OF tDanbering m the 25orber Countrg, fafeelanb anb Hibblesbale. MELROSE ABBEY BY MOONLIGHT By Edmund Bogg Member of the Yorkshire Archæological Society; AUTHOR OF "FROM EDENVALE TO THE PLAINS OF YORK," "A THOUSAND MILES IN WHARFEDALE. ETC. THREE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ILLUSTRATIONS. publishers : LEEDS : Edmund Bogg, 3, Woodhouse Lane YORK : John Sampson, Coney Street. 1898. <FX

Preface

. Ke) >'j\p ~l'——~jA X gathering into book form these series of sketches, the outcome \v'^-A K-^' J °f a" our interesting holiday tramps and leisure hours from '•&3Sk I ky^V *i business during the past four years, in connection with the >• yjÆj \^^Q\\ wide border of our native land, we did not anticipate the Lk4J/g ' * ■ volume growing to such proportions, for it was stipulated ,iW][^[ y*$g *= *= i f y )^f/^ f M \'/~-'^rs at the commencement, in our circular to subscribers, that MM \ m lm>M ivr 1 M lrwcv0 limitation was four hundred pages, but the attraction and rut ia ' tt°tt breadth of the subject, and the love one felt in its pursuit, „ ? Wi sr") outweighed in balance the commercial aspect, and drew us on and on, like a bee flitting from flower to flower, until the work 7^*0 has swollen to the extent of 630 pages.

Lines of demarcation past four years, in connection with the native land, we did not anticipate the such proportions, for it was stipulated may define a border physically, but to examine the deep mine of wealth along this borderland, and study on the battleground of 2,000 years, and learn the power and grit of men who have broken the despotic rule of tyrants, and helped in the formation of nations, especially those two nations whose influence extends from centre to circumference, there is no limitation. One motive of ours is to excite a desire in the hearts of our countrymen to visit this borderland, haunted by legend, romance, tradition, and ballad lore, and see the beaut)- and grandeur of those extensive scenes, those saintly piles Preface. IV that time and age hath decked so lovingly, where moor, heath, stream, vale, and wood abound ; each may have been an epic poem, where jealousies and ambitions ruled the holier thought.

The land of the reiver and moss-trooper, where still moulder those numerous castles and peel towers, resonant with echoes of vanished heroes, built for defence and shelter during the continual foray and raid, when the law ran — That they should take who hath the power Anil they should keep who can." Such a state of things always kept the borderers of the two nations in harness. The hour was not known by day, or more frequently by night, when they would have to sally forth to defend the homestead and save their cattle. Scott says of Branxholme : — Thirty steeds both fleet and wight Stood saddled in stable day and night, Barbed with frontlet of steel I trow, Anti with [edwood axe at saddle bow. Many of the yeoman farmers between Berwick and Carlisle, and along the Tyne valleys, have sword, spear, shield, &c, that their forbears used in defence of their home, goods, and cattle, hung on the same pins on their kitchen walls.

Ofttimes were the borderers in this state — Lock the door, Larriston, lion of Liddlesdale Lock the door, Larriston, hold them at bay ! People of to-day know more about the continent, and even the uttermost parts of the earth, than they do about their own native land. I hope our humble efforts will divert their thoughts to those scenes and incidents of the Border, which, for interest and beaut}*, nothing in the wide world can surpass. I feel under a debt of obligation to Mr. G. T. Lowe and Mr. L. Moore for their contributions, and to Mr. Hamilton for his kindly advice and interest during the greater part of our work. Yours truly, EDMUND BOGG. PAGE to 29 -<»X CONTENTS. .K^

Chapter II. — Continued

Way to the Borders ; The Midland route : The Carlisle and Edinburgh Express ; Wild Scenery around Ribblehead ; The Eden River ; The Tees Country ; Distant Peep of the Lake Hills ; Enchanting prospect ; Carlisle and its Memories ; Border Hills and Roman Wall ; Scenery and Historic Associations The North-East Route : Vale of the Wharfe ; Harrogate ; Ripon and Fountains Abbey ; York : a Retrospective Sketch ; Magnificent Cathedral ; The Vale of Mowbray ; Thirsk ; Northallerton ; The Battle of the Standard ; Darlington : its Ancient Features ; Hugh Pudsey, George Stephenson, and Joseph Pease ; Houghton-le-Skerne ; A Sorrowful Scene ; Croft, Hurworth, and Sockburn ; Sir John Conyers and the monster worm's deadly combat ; Stockton on-Tees ; Middlesbrough : its Rapid Rise and Commercial Importance — Footnote, page 12 ; Sir John Conyers, Bart., the last of his line ; William, the last of the illustrious Umfrevilles ; Relics of the Ancient Priory Church of Victory ; Solemn Thanksgiving ; A Glorious Trophy ; The Black Rood of Scotland ; A Famous Churchman, Bishop, Count Palatine, Patriarch, and King; Hugh Pudsey, a powerful Prelate and great Builder ; Interior of Castle ; Immense Fireplace ; The Great Hall ; Historic Personages ; Ancient Chapel ; The Black Staircase ; A magnificent Norman Arch ; The Upper Storey ; Faces and Phan toms from an Old World ; The Origin and Meaning of Durham ; The Body of St. Cuthbert brought from Lindisfarne to Dur ham ; A Weary Pilgrimage ; The Rapid Rise of the City ; Harsh Rule of the Normans ; Robert Cumyn ; Saxon Vengeance ; A Terrible Retribution ; Awful Anger of the Conqueror ; Marks of his Devastation ; Walcher of Lorraine ; His Favourites ; Murder of Liulf, the Saxon Chief ; Conference at Gateshead ; Fearful Retaliation ; Outbreak of an Oppressed People ; The Bishop is Slain ; Odo of Bayeaux, with a large Army, enters Durham ; Description of the Antiquated Middlesbrough I to 12 City; Bygone Eccentric Characters : Tommy

CHAPTER II.

Durham : Key to the Border Kingdom : its sine situation, magnificent Cathedral ; The antique Sanctuary Knocker; The Sanctuary ; Sly, John Thomas Longstaffe, Brush, the Electioneer ; the Brotheis Humphrey and Tommy Boxer, Willy Walker, John Bolton, Hickey- Bacca L11,ck' and T°'"n'y 11c inson ... .. .. ... ... 13 St. Cuthbert's Cross and Shrine ; Interior of the Cathedral ; Magnificent Architecture ; A Vision of the Past ; Nine Altars Chapel ; Tomb of St. Cuthbert ; His Gorgeous Shrine ; The Saint's Antipathy to Females ; The Burial of Anthony Bek in the Nine Altars Chapel ; An unrivalled example of Early Transition Architecture ; A Charmed Oratory ; The Tomb of the Venerable Bede ; Muti lated Effigies ; Beautiful Figure of Bishop Hatfield ; His Altar Tomb, etc. ; The Castle ; Entrance Portal ; its Aged Porter ; Visions of the Past : Princes, Bishops, and their Attendants ; Martial Fame and Pagean try ; The Incorruptibility of St. Cuthbert's Body ; The Glory and Romance of Bygone Durham ; Neville's Cross ; An Important

Chapter III

The Valley of the Wear : A Winter Scene ; Carnival on the Ice ; St. Oswald's Well and Church ; The Burial-place of Baron Brown. Poet Laureate of Durham— a harmless character ; His Hoaxing Friends ; The Palmer s Close ; Elvet Bridge ; Chapels of St. James and St. Andrew ; Legend of a Wandering Spirit ; Old Elvet ; Mountjoy Hill ; Houghall ; Hamlet of Butterby : its Situation ; Antiquity of the spot ; A Rendezvous of the Durhamites ; Hutchinson Alderson, Bellman of Durham, and Mock Parson of Butterby ; His Eccentricities and Rise to Importance ; Croxdale Hall and the Galvins ; Brancepeth Castle and the Nevilles ; The VI The Chapter III. — Continued. tage. Chapter IV. — Continued. page.

Baron's Hall ; Church of St. Brandon ; Venerable Bede's Chair ; The Death Scene Neville's Cross ; Beaurpaire ; Aldin Grange Bridge ; David of Scotland Captured by Sir John de Coupland ; The Sign of -'The Pot and Glass," a notorious tippling place ; Old Cocken Hall ; Finchall Priory ; St. Godric the Hermit : His Daily Penance ; Lumley Castle : its Appearance and Position ; A Night Scene ; Ancient Ancestry of the Lumleys ; Chesttr-le-Street ; A Roman Station ; The Church ; Ezelric the Bishop ; Discovery of a Treasure Trove ; The present Church, built by Bishop Bek ; The Aisle of Tombs ; Crumbling Memorials of an Ancient Family ; Chester-New-Brigg ; " Charles Swineburn's Leap " ; Lampton Castle ; The D'Arcy's ; The "Lampton Worm" (see footnote for Legend) ; Village of Birtley ; Salt Mines ; Shotley Bridge ; The Pranks and Crimes of " Mad Maddison " ; His End on the Scaffold ; \ illage of Lamesley ; Ravensworth Castle ; Hylton Castle ; Dim Traditions of the Hyltons ; Legend of the " Kaw'd Lad o' Hylton " ; The Coal-fields of Durham ; Pictures of Pitmen Fifty Years Ago ; Their Love of Flowers ; Billy Purvis, a famous Show man ; His Travelling Theatre and Orchestra ; Death and Burial in old Hartlepool Church yard ; His Tombstone, erected by John and George Sanger ... ... ... ... 301045 of the Saint ; Jarrow Slake ; A Degrading Punishment.. ... ... ... 461059

Chapter V

Newcastle-on-Tyne : Blackgate : Fine Specimen of Norman Work ; James Bruce : an Interesting Character : His Reminiscence of Newcastle ; The Castle Garth : a Rendezvouses the Pedlars ; The Side ; Gigantic Arch ; The Swing Bridge ; The High Level Bridge ; Hudson, the Railway King; George and Robert Stephenson, Thomas Girtin, Grainger, etc. ; Beautiful Architecture ; Noble Tower of St. Nicholas ; Pandon Gate ; A Mediæval City ; The "Chares"; Great Fire of 1S54 ; Old Newgate; Saint Andrew's Church ; Low Friar Street and Friar's Green ; The Veteran ; The Belle of Friar's Green ; Roman Wall and Military Road ; The West Gate ; The Shrine ofthe Virgin at Jesmond ; the New Castle, built by Robert, Son of the Conqueror ; Church of St. Nicholas : its Architecture ; Anecdote of Sir John Marly ; Relics of Roman and Saxon Rule ; Architecture of Norman and Mediæval Ages ; Triumph of Engineering Skill ; The Stone and Iron Ages ; Fludson in Prosperity ; Famous Men of Newcastle, past and present ; A Sunday Tramp to Blaydon, Ryton, Wylam, Prudhoe, Ovingham, and Bywell ; Groups of Miners, etc. ; Ryton ; Ancient Rectory ; A Memorial of Bernard Gilpin ; Legend of David, King of the Scots ; Heddon-on-the-Wall ; Wylam Hall ; North Wylam ; Memorial to William Iledley ; Prudhoe Castle : Romantic Situation ; Home of the Umfrevilles ; (Footnote : the First Locomotive) ; In Bewick and Stephenson Country ; Bywell Bridge ; A Lovely Scene ; The Old Keep ; Charming Bend of the Tyne ; Bywell Churches and Cross ; Traditional Story ; Return to Newcastle ; The Old Mansion House on Fire ; is Destroyed ; The Fire as seen from a Girder on the High Level ; Startling Contrasts ; Romance of Mediæval Times ; Quaint Narrative by Froissart ; An Immense Army ; Newcastle Assaulted ; Earl of Moray Captured ; Rivalry between the Houses of Percy and Douglas ; Skirmish before the Castle Walls; The Doughty Douglas Captures Lance and Pennon from the Gallant Hotspur (Old Ballad) ; Battle of Otterburn Field ; Death of Douglas ; Percy made Prisoner; "Jock o' the Syde"; Liberated from Newcastle Gaol by Hobbie Noble ; Ballad relating to it 60 to 75 CHAPTER IY. 1 Estuaries ofthe Wear and Tyne; Situa tion of Monkwearmouth ; Present Aspect ; The Venerable Church of Saint Peter ; Hoary Relics ; Ancient Landmark ; Benedict Biscop ; Bede the Venerable ; Startling Contrasts ; Im mense Bridges ; Scenes on the River ; Sunder land ; Along the Coast ; Boldon Church ; The "Boldon Buke "; South Shields: its Appearance ; The Tyne River ; A Huge Drama ; The Din of Commerce ; A Murky At mosphere: Mouth of the Tyne; Marsden Rocks; Tynemouth Castle and Priory ; Saint Oswin's Shrine ; A Burial Place of King and Princes ; A Grand Requiem ; The Wizard's Cave ; Adventure of Walter, Son of Sir Robert the Knight ; Cullercoates ; Seaton Delaval : An cient Lineage of the Delavals ; The Old Chapel ; Monkseaton ; Blyth and Newbiggin ; Church of Saint Bartholomew ; A Venerable Relic ; The View West from the Mouth ofthe Tyne ; The

Two Shields' : Picturesque Con fusion ; Memorial of Lord Collingwood ; Aspect of North Shields ; A dingy Thoroughfare ; A Sail up the Tyne by Night ; A weird, unearthly Scene ; Strange-looking Figures ; Evil Smelling Vapours ; The " La France" ; A Gossiping Scotchman ; A Vast Hive of Industry ; A Magician's Land ; Jarrow Church ; Hallowed Ground; Home of the Venerable Bede ; Scenes from the Past ; Strange Con trast ; Relics of Pre-Conquest Days ; The

Chapter VI

Northumberland : Killingworth ; Blackdon Park ; Ridleys of Border Fame ; "Ville of Plessis"; The Wansbeck ; Hartburn Beck; Billsmoor ; Mitford : its Church, Castle, and Contents. XV Chapter XXVII. — Continued. page. Locher Moss ; Caerlaverock Castle : Arms of the Maxwells ; A Roman Station ; Llywarch- Hen ; Herbert Lord Maxwell ; Besieged by Edward the First ; Roger Kirkpatrick ; An Old Legend ; James Lindsay Murders Roger Kirk patrick ; Is taken and Executed ; By the of the Solway ; Clarensfield and the Village of Brow ; RuthweU Kirk ; Tall Saxon Cross ; Cummertrees ; A Question of Colour ;- Fairy Dells and Golden Gorse ; Annan ; The Castle; Alexander the Second ; Robert Bruce; Edward Baliol ; Douglas ; Battle Hill ; Dornock Churchyard ; Annan Hill ; Inroll of the Tide ; Chapter XXVII. — Continued. page.

Edward Irvine ; Friend of Thomas Carlyle and Hugh Clapperton ; Schoolmaster at Kirk caldy ; Removes lo Glasgow ; Assistant to Dr Chalmers ; Takes Charge of the Cale donian Chapel, London ; Marvellous Orations; Overwhelming Congregations ; Is Expelled ; Presbytery of Annan ; Death at Glasgow ; Burial in the Crypt of the Cathedral ; Monu ment to his Memory in Annan ; Memories of Old Border Warfare ; The Kirtle, Esk, and Eden ; Salmon Fishers ; Rockcliffe ; Carlisle ; Delightful Recollections ; At the Portal of an Old Border Region .. ... ... 35010364

Part II. Chapter

I. page. Chapter 11. — Continued. PAGE.

Carlisle ; British Occupation ; A Roman Fort ; King Arthur ; Uter Pendragon ; " Bridal of Triermaen"; The Round Table ; Magnificent Tournament ; Gyneth ; Merlin ; Roland de Vaux, Baron of Triermain ; Castle Rock ; Vale of St. John ; The Banquet ; Knights of the Round Table ; The Flower of Kings ; A Goodly Array of Warriors ; The Body of King Arthur ; Glastonbury; The Dying King; Sir Bevidere the Faithful ; Island Valley of Avillion ; Egfrid, King of Northumbria ; St. Cuthbert and St. Herbert of Derwentwater ; The Venerable Bede ; A Warning ; Danes Destroy Carlisle ; The Keep, built by the Red King ; City Girded with Walls ; An Abode of Kings and Queens ; Surge of War ; Edward the First ; Mary Stuart ; Bonnie Prince Charlie ; Kinmont Willie Rescued by Scott of Buccleugh ; Arrested in Violation of Border Law ; A Stormy Night ; Alarm-bells ; Kinmont Willie's "Good-night"; " The Starkest Man in Teviotdale "; Buccleugh Imprisoned ; Sent to England ; Before Elizabeth ; A Noble Reply ; Gateway to the Inner Ward ; The Roman Well ; Dismal Prison House ; Instruments of Torture ; A Loquacious Guide ; Weeping-stone ; A Skeleton in the Walls ; Story of the Sentry ; Cathedral ; Impressive Ceremony ; The Oath of Fealty ; Robert Bruce Excommunicated : Edward Dies at Burgh-on-Sands ; Walter Scott Married to Miss Carpenter ; Merry Carlisle ; A Transformation ; The City Gates ; " Flying Scotchman "; Stanwix, the Site of a Roman Station 1 to II Wall ; Cause of its Destruction ; Historical Value of the Remains ; The Masonry and Dimensions ; Forts, Mile-castles, and Turrets ; Notitia ; Three Parts for Consideration ; Authorship of the Wall ; Claims of Hadrian and Severus; Date of Construction ; Western Portion from Bowness to Carlisle ; Fosse in Evidence of the Wall ; Wallby, Bleatarn, and Old Wall ; Castlesteads and Cambeck Bridge ; The Kingswater ; Craggle Hill ; Hare Hill ; Highest Existing Portion at Banksburn ; Amboglanna or Burdoswald ; High Bank of the Irthing and Probable Site of Bridge ; Thirlwall Castle ; Spade Adam Waste ; Magna or Caervoran ; Nine Nicks of Thirl wall ; Æsica or Great Chesters ; Haltwhistle ; Cawfields Mile-castle ; The Northumbrian Lakes ; Crag Lough and Whinshields ; Hot bank Farm ; Housesteads or Borcovicus ; Sewingshields ; Procolitia or Carrowburgh ; Discovery of Roman Well by Local Farmer ; Walwick and Foundations of Wall in High road ; Chesters or Roman Cilurnum ; Roman Bridge over North Tyne at Chollerford ; Foundations in Road to Errington Arms ; Heddon-on-the-Wall ; Dene House ; Dr. Buice's Wallet Book ; Wallsend ; Ancient Inscriptions ; Earl of Carlisle and Mr. John Clayton ; Society of Antiquaries of Newcastle on-Tyne ... ... ... ... ... 12 to 21

CHAPTER III.

Hexham : Bishop Wilfrid ; Building of the Abbey; Magnificent Architecture: Destroyed by the Danes: Bishops Eata and Tilfrith ; Prior Richard ; St. Mary's and St. Peter's ; Thomas, the Second Archbishop of York Restores the Cathedral ; Monastery of Augustine Canons ; Career of St. Wilfrid ; Strict Obedience to the Romish Church ; Acca, Bishop, Scholar, and Singer ; Bede the Venerable ; St. John of Beverley, and John of

CHAPTER II.

The Roman Wall ; The Picts' Wall as a Barrier; Nature of the Rampart and Consequent Theories Advanced ; Situation. Extent and Surface of Country ; Forts older than the c Chapter III. — Continued. page.

Hexham ; Battle of Hexham ; Battle Hill ; Flight of King Henry ; Deepdene ; Queen Margaret's Cave; A Fete Day; Fine View of the Old Town ; Edwardian Tower ; Market Hall; Abbey Church ; Saxon Crypt; Roman Altar ; Prior Richard's Tomb ; Frid Stool or Sanctuary Chair ; Laws of the Sanctuary ; A City of Refuge ; Abbey Gateway ; The Abbey Suppressed ; Pilgrimage of Grace ; Disaster and Ruin ; Edward Jaye ; Dilston Castle ; "Devil's Water"; Allandale ; Nunsburgh ; Lennel's Bridge ; The De-Dyvelstons ; An Old Border Family , Langley Castle and the Tyndalls ; Adam de Tynedale ; Margaret of Silesia ; Anne of Luxemburg ; William Tyndall, the Reformer ; Claxtons ; Radcliffes of Derwentwater and Dilston ; Their Ad herence to the Ill-fated Stuarts : Earl of Derwentwater Beheaded on Tower Hill ; Expression of Grief ; Traditions of the District; The Earl Buried in Family Vault at Dilston ; Lady Derwentwater ; Sorrowful Tenantry ; "Lady's Rake" ; Charles Radcliffe Executed ; Estates Confiscated ; Description of Dilston ; Family Chapel and Vault of the Radcliffes ; Corbridge ; A Noble Bridge ; Tremendous Flood ; Bloody Acre ; A Huge Skeleton; "The Angel"; An Ancient Peel ; Roman, Saxon, and Norman Relics in the Church ; Types of Architecture ; Beaufront Castle ; Aydon Peel ; Peter de Valli bus ; "Jack's Leap"; A Deep Ravine; Flalton Tower ; John de Halton (see foot note, page 31) ; The Carnabys of Halton Tower ; The Chapel, Norman Chancel Arch ; Roman station of Ilunnum, site of the Roman Wall ; Cocklaw Tower ; St. Oswald's Chapel ; Battle of Hefenfelth ; King Oswald victorious ; Ceadwalla the Pagan slain ; Story of the Cross ; Prayers on the battlefield ; Cholleford Bridge ; Ruins of Cilurnum ; A City of the Past ; The High way of the Conqueror ; Frontier of the Roman World ; An incident at Cholleford Bridge ; T'he George ; Four Stones ; Story of the Earl of Derwentwater ; Haydon Bridge ; Cruel Syke ; Martin, the Artist ; Bardon Mill ; Langley Castle ; Ridley Hall ; River Allen, its source on Alston Moors ; Stanward le Peel ; Willimoteswick ; Unthank Flail ; The Ridleys ; Bishop Ridley ; The Wall again Sewin shields ; Tradition of King Arthur ; The Roman Sentinel ; Cat Gate ; Borcovicus ; Tungrian Cohort ; Temple of Mithras ; Hot Bank ; An old Border Family ; A funeral cortege ; Northumbrian Lochs ; Highest point of the Wall : a landmark in the World's History; The Mighty Cæsars; The Eternal City, a misnomer ; Burnt Deviot ; Smug glers and Reivers ; Haltwhistle ; Feud between the Armstrongs of Liddlesdale and Ridleys of Tynedale ; Castle Hill ; Holy Cross ; Altar tomb of the Ridleys ; Bellister Castle and the Blenkinsops ; Wryden Scarr ; Chapter III. — Continued. page.

Sunhill ; Rowport ; Lambley ; Benedictine Convent ; Around the source of the South Tyne ; Murder of Nicholas Featherstonehaugh ; Ancient Ballad : Featherstone Castle ; A noted Border Family of that name ; Blenkinsop Castle ; A tradition of Bryan Blenkinsop An omen of death ; River Tippal ; Thirlwall Castle ; An eerie picture ; Wall and Vallum ; Gathering cry of the Thirlwalls : "A Thirl wall !" 22 to 41

CHAPTER IV.

Irthing Valley: Source of the Irthing ; Tarnbecks ; Gilsland : Gilles-Beuth ; Gospatric ; De Vallibus or Vaux ousts the Lord of Gilsland ; Is slain by De Vaux ; Builds the Priory of Lanercost ; Etymology of name Gillesland ; First Meeting of Sir Walter Scott and Miss Carpenter ; The Popping-stone ; Guy Mannering and the Bridal of Triermain ; Mump's Ha' ; Dandie Dinmont ; Meg Merrilees ; Fighting Charlie ; Stagshawbank Fair ; Evil reputation of Mump's Ha' ; A lonely ride ; Fighting Charlie waylaid — " Too's oot Noo' ; Upper Denton Churchyard ; Tombs of Margaret Carrick and Margaret Teasdale ; Castle of Triermain ; Vaux and Tryermain ; Bewcastle, Ancient Cross ; Bewcastle Thieves ; Sutor Wat and the Captain of Bewcastle ; Hobby Noble ; Burdoswald ; Fine situation ; Earl of Carlisle ; Priory of Lanercost ; Norman Gateway ; Edwardian Tower ; Historic Borderers — De Vallibus, Roland de Vaux, Dacres and Howards ; The venerable Vicar ; The Tomb of Roland de Vaux and Humphrey Dacre ; Magnificent Altar Tomb of Lord Dacre ; The First Edward visits Lanercost on three occasions ; Royal Game ; Forest of lnglewood ; The Pope's Legate — Peter, Cardinal of Spain ; Duncan Macdoil captures Thomas and Alexander, brothers of Bruce; Are Executed at Carlisle ; Scottish Raids on Lanercost ; A Woodland Path ; Naworth Castle ; The Gateway ; Arms of the Dacres and Howards ; William Howard, alias Bauld Willie and Belted Will ; Position of Castle and its Defences ; Courtyard and Banqueting Hall ; Rare Portraiture ; Belted Will's Chapel and Library ; Secret Room ; Stories of Belted Will ; Jedworth's Justice ; The Gallows ; An Aged Oak ; Kindness of the Carlisles ; Brampton ; The Moat ; River Gelt ; How Mill ; The Gloaming ; Hayton ; Castle Hill ; Rich Melody; Little Corby; Warwick Bridge and Village ; Holme-Eden Church 42 to 56

CHAPTER V.

The Eden Country : Wetheral ; A Panting Fiend ; Churchyard ; Ancient Yew ; Sir Richard Salkeld ; The Howard Chapel ; Wetheral Abbey ; Scotsby ; Cumwhinton and Wrea, River Petteril ; Greystoke Park ; Brisco ; A Rural Post Office ; Wetheral Caves ; Contents. XVII An Chapter X .—Continued. page.

Chapter VII

page A Prince turns Hermit ; Midday Picture ; Armathwaite ; A Rural Church ; Famous Fishing Place ; Armathwaite Mill ; A Delight ful Spot ; Lazonby and Kirkoswald ; Saxon and Danish Occupation ; A Feud of Centuries ; The Bridge ; Church of St. Oswald ; Nature's Cathedral Aisle — God's Gothic ; St. Oswald's Well ; A Place of Baptism ; Shields of the Howards, Musgraves, and Baron's Dacre ; Kirkoswald Castle; Hugh de Morville; Kirkoswald Village ; Tudor Mansion ; The Raven ; Nunnery Walks ; The Croglin ; Description of the Ravine ; Glory of Sunset ; A sweet Sabbath Morn ; Crossfell ; Del- Raffen ; The Fish Poacher ; Glassonby ; Addingham Church ; Saxon Cross ; Old Parish Chest ; A deep-rooted Tradition ; Long Meg ; A Druidical Circle ; Pagan Gods — Woden and Thor ; A Veil of Mystery ; The Smaller Circle ; Hunsanby ; Old Bridge and Village Pound ; Winskill ; The Well ; A Trysting Spot ; Fairies and Elfin People ; Briggle Beck ; Burial Mounds ; Langwathby ; A Rustic Village ; Large Green ; Shepherd s Inn ; Little and Great Salkeld ; Fine Norman Barnard Castle : Fitz-Barnard ; Barnard Baliol; John Baliol; Anthony Bek, Bishop of Durham ; The Nevilles ; Richard III. and Anne of Warwick ; Sir George Bowes ; Robert Carr ; The Vanes ; Ruins ; Magnificent Prospect ; Gallowgate ; Throttghgate ; Cromwell ; The King's Head; "Nicholas Nickleby " ; " Master Humphrey's Clock " ; " Mr. Newman Noggs"; The Parish Church; NormanFont and Doorway ; Streatleam Castle ; Staindrop, Large Green ; The Church ; Tomb and Effigies of the Nevilles ; Ralph Neville and his Two Wives; Henry, 5th Earl of Westmoreland ; Duke of Cleveland ; King Canute ; Raby, a Mediæval Castle ; The Nevilles ; Norman Chivalry ; Richard Neville, King-Maker ; Middleham and Brancepeth, see Footnote, page 86 — Power of the King-Maker; Remarkable Men and Memorable Deeds; Battle of Neville's Cross ; Aymer de Neville ; Robert Neville, Peacock ofthe North : Downfall ofthe Family ; Rising of the North ; Old Richard Norton An ill-fated Banner ; Old Ballad ; Langley Dale ; Winston on-Tees ; Gainford : An Old World Border Line ; Norman Church ; The Saxon Structure built by Egfred ; Relics, ele; Base of Ancient Cross ; Tudor Manor House ; The Columbaries ; St.

Lawrence Chapel ; Old Richmond; Bereford; Robert-de-Bereford; Celtic Dyke and Rampart, Memorials of Roman Occupation; Ovington; Ulf and the Ulmington Family ; Charming Green and Maypole ; Barningham ; Cat Whipping ; Wycliffe ; Home of John Wycliffe the Reformer ; Picturesque Church ; Interesting Rectory ; Portrait of the Reformer by Sir Anlonio Moore ; 1 he Old Mill ; The Ashes of the Reformer ; Rokeby ; Greta Bridge ; Morrit Arms ; Ancient Font ; Brignall Banks ; Guy Denziel ; The George ; Mortham's Tomb, Tees Marble ; Immense Elm Trees ; Mortham s Tower, Legends, etc. ; Bertram's Cave ; Dairy Bridge ; Meeting of Greta and Tees ; Hallowed Ground ; "The Felon Sow of Rokeby"; Ralph de Rokeby ; Friar Middleton ; Peter Dale ; Watling Street ; Margery of Rokeby ; Fiiar Theobald captures the Sow ; A Noble Victory ; Rejoicing at Richmond ; Marble Bed of the Tees ; Churning of Centuries ; A Charming Spring Day ; Eggleston Abbey ; The Hermit ; Thomas Rokeby ; Fairy Thorsgill ; Thor. the Viking; The Abbey's Dedication; " Kyrie Eleison " ; "Gloria in Excelsis"; "Ihe Credo"; "Agnus Dei"; "Mea Culpa " ; The Benediction ; The Vespers ; Barbaric Splendour and Pageantry ; The Nevilles, the Percys, the Fitz-Hughs.

Bowes and Rokebys ; A Favourite Sketching Ground ; Monk's Mill ; Barnard Castle and Bowes Museum ; Watling Street ; Roman Legions ; An Old Coach Road ; Bowes, Description ; Dotheboys Hall; "Nicholas Nickleby". Stainmoor ; Unicorn Inn : Old Coaching House ; The Interior of the Inn ; A Gossip Doorway ; Dick Whittington ; Scenes on the Eden ; Where the Eden and Eamont meet ; A Moonlight Scene ; Edenhall Village ; The Vicarage ; Church of St. Cuthbert ; King Ceowlyn ; Ancient Brasses ; Crests and Shields of the Musgraves ; The Giant Caves ; Sir Lancelot and Tarquin ; Ewan Cesario ; Eden Hall Park ; Fallow Deer ; The Musgraves ; Enormous Cedars ; Fairies' Well ; " Luck of Eden Hall " ; Legends relating to the Cup ; Ladye Isabel ; The Page-Boy ; A Weird Woman ; The Leech ; Ballads of the " Luck " Drinking Match of Edenhall 57 to 73

CHAPTER VI.

Old World Border : Opening remarks ; Anglo-Norman Strongholds ; Daniel Dover ; Culgaith ; Skirwith Abbey ; Blencarn.

Middle tongue and Mill Rigg Becks ; Knock Fell and Duston Pike ; The Helm Storm ; A Thing of Straw ; Milburn Forest ; Crossfell, The Penine Range ; Source ofthe Tees ; The Snout and Wheel ; High F'orce ; Mickle Fell ; Wynch Bridge ; Bowlees ; Newbiggin ; Middleton ; Hudeshope Beck ; Relics of a Norman Church ; Fair Days ; The Lune ; Laithkirk ; Craigcairn ; Mickleton ; The Tees at Eaglestone Bridge ; Romaldskirk ; A Typical Village ; Imposing Church ; Effigy of a Fitzhugh ; The River Balder ; Cotherstone Castle, Home of the Fitzhughs ; A Long standing Feud between this Family and lhe Kerrs ; Traditional Story ; Mabel Kerr ; A Night Attack ; Cotherstone Destroyed ; Story of the Dying Chief ; Return of the Victor to the Valley of the Jed ; Percymyre Castle ; Marwood Chase ; Old Ballad ; Cotherstone Village ; Lartington ; Beautiful Deep-dale 74 to 82 Chapter VII. — Continued. page. with the Villagers; Widow Railton; "The George " ; Phantoms of the Past ; Charles Dickens ; Pembroke College and Bowes Grammar School ; A Parish Meeting ; The Debate ; Thirsty Orators ; Bowes Church ; Roman and Norman Relics ; South Doorway ; Story of Edwin and Emma ; A Pattern of True Love ; Bowes Castle ; Alan of Brittany ; Roman Station ; Mill on the Greta ; Dotheboys Hall ; Squeers ; Nicholas Nickleby ; Stainmoor ; A Wild Walk ; Resort of Highwaymen ; God's Bridge; Toll Bar; Spittal-on-the-Moor; Ancient Hostel ; Pack Horse Days ; Knight Templar ; Roi, or Rere Cross ; Cross of Kings ; Penine Range : Nine Standards ; Mallerstang ; Wild Boar's Fell ; Ghosts and Warlock ; A Legend of Stainmoor ; Fitz-Barnard ; The Saxon Chieftain ; The Headless Rider ; The Key of Stainmoor ; " Slip Inn " ; Church Bells S3 to 107 Chapter IX. — Continued. page.