From Edenvale to the Plains of York: or, A thousand miles in the valleys of the Nidd and Yore, etc

Front matter

From Edenvale TO THE Plains of York OR, A Thousand Miles in the Valleys of the Nidd and Yore. Old* York. From a Sketch taken$o years ago. By Edmund Bogg, Author of " Nidderdale and the Vale of the Nidd," " A Thousand Miles in Wharfedale," &c, &>c. Member of the Yorkshire Archæological Society, (s'c. Beautifully Illustrated with upwards of 200 Specially Designed Pictures, By Gilbert Foster, Percy Robinson, Albert Haselgrave, Frank Dean, Owen Bowen, Edmund Bogg, and others. LEEDS : Edmund Bogg, 3, Woodhouse Lane. YORK : John Samp60n, Coney Street.

Preface

. To the many friends I have made during my visits into the two river vales I respectfully dedicate this book, and in so doing I hope that the work will not have been in vain, but will, by pointing out the many beautiful spots and historic places, be the means of inducing numerous people to tour through the dales, which, by so doing, will, in a greater or lesser degree, prove beneficial both to the visitor apd the inhabitants of the dales. I have to apologise in only having briefly touched on certain places, particularly in the lower portion of the Yore valley and in the neighbourhood of York, but the volume having grown far beyond my original intention, I was obliged to treat briefly what otherwise 1 should have devoted many pages to. To all friends and correspondents who have in any way assisted to the success of the work I offer my sincerest thanks, and to the kind and unremitting attention of one gentleman in replying to my various enquiries, when seeking for information, I feel most deeply obliged. In taking leave of my readers, I trust they will have the same pleasure in reading, as I have found in collecting, the matter. EDMUND BOGG. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page. Chapter IV

— Continued. page. Richard Harrison ; Tockwith Village ; Bil ton and Sinningthwaite ; Bilton Church, &c. ; Its ancient features ; Skewkirk Ferry ; Kirk Hammerton ; The old Saxon Church ; Green Hammerton ; A Village Feast ; Original Characters ; The Upland Country 42 to 52 A brief description of the interesting places in the vales of the Yore and the Nidd ... ] 1 to 6 CHJ..PTER II. A Retrospective Sketch ; The Brigantes ; Druidism ; Queen Cartismandau ; Caractacus, a prisoner, is taken to Rome ; The subjection of the Brigantes by Rome ; The invasion of the Saxons and the dispersion of the old Celtic race ; Gregory the Great and the tale of the Slave Market ; The conversion of Saxons by the Romish Church ; Edwin, Prince of Deira ; The destruction of the Heathen Gods, Woden and Thor, and the Baptism of the Angles by Paulinus in the Swale and the Yore ; The Battle of Heathfield and death of Edwin ; Winwoed Field and the death of Penda ; Noble and shining lights in the Saxon Church ; The invasion of the Danes and capture of York ; Rule in Northumbria ; Harold of Westfold : a tradition ; Siward the Jarl : a dramatic death scene ; Troubles in Northumbria during the rule of Tosti ; Is expelled, &c. ; Unfurls the Viking standard ; Joins Hardrada ; Invades Northumbria ; The Battle of Stamford Bridge ; Hardrada and Tosti are slain and the Norwegian fleet dispersed ; The conquest of England by the Normans ; Battle of Hastings and death of Harold ; The Rebellion of the Anglo-Danish people in Northumbria ; Capture of York and re-capture by the Normans ; Retaliation and devastation of Northumbria by the conquerors ; Uprearing of mighty strongholds ; Death scene and burial of the Norman King 7 to 32

CHAPTER V.

The Ouseeurn Villages : A vivid description of bygone times 53 to 64

CHAPTER VI.

Whixley ; Christopher Tancred, his curious will, &c. ; The Church ; Allerton ; The Mauleverers ; The Hall ; The Church and Tombs of the Mauleverers ; The Vale of York, &c. ; Thornville Hall, formerly the abode of Colonel Thornton ; Famous Race on Knavesmire ; Tale of the Miller, &c. ; Hunsingore ; A Parson in the Stocks ; Cowthorpe Oak ; Anecdotes of the Village and Church ; Guy Fawkes ; Ingmanthorpe ; A Submerged Forest ; Farmer Smith's old Grey Mare 65 to 75

CHAPTER VII.

The Crimple Country ; Almes Cliff ; Brackenthwaite ; Harry Buck the Wise Man ; King Charles, &c. ; Pannal ; A rural Village ; Description of the Church ; Pannal Hall and the Tancreds ; Follifoot ; A Village Picture ; Spofforth : Its early History ; The Wars of the Percys : Otterburn and Shrewsbury ; Death of Hotspur and capture of Douglas ; Battle of Bramham Moor ; Defeat of the Rebels ; A Percy slain by the mob at Topcliffe ; Spofforth Castle and the Church, &c. ; Blind Jack's Grave ; North Deighton ; A June Eve ; Ancient Burial Mounds ; Kirk Deighton ; A scene of beauty ; The Church ; The Tomb of Merleswyn and the De Ross Family ... 76 to 90

Chapter III

Nunmonkton : Its origin ; The Church of St. Mary ; The village and neighbourhood ; Newton-on-Ouse ; Benineroush ; In the Ainsty Country ; The Red House : a descriptive sketch ; Moor Monkton ; A Thunderstorm ; Marston Village, &c. 33 to 41

CHAPTER VIII. CHAPTER IV.

Ribstone ; A description of the Knight Templars ; Charles Brandon ; The Goodriche Family ; The Church of St. Andrew's ; Goldsborough Hall ; The Huttons, the Byerleys and Lascelles'; The Church and Marston Fight ; General description ; Flight and chase of a Cavalier bearing the ne «vs to the Garrison of Knaresborough ; Safe arrival and death of his steed ; Wilstrop Hall and vi.

CHAPTER VIII.

— Continued.

CHAPTER X

— Continued. page. PAGE. The Graveyard ; A Riverside Picture ; Clint and the Swale Family ; Burnt Yates and Darlev ; Cinder Hills ; Stumps Lane ; A Foul Murder ; A Story of Civil War ; Uarley Beck and Padside Hall ; Tradition of a Knight of the Ingleby Family ; Tipper Nidderdale in general ; A Sketch by W. H. Daykin 126 to 158 Tombs of the Templars ; Goldsborough Mill ; Grimbald Bridge ; St. Robert's Cave ; Birkham Deeps and Grimbalds Craggs ; Plumpton ; Anecdote of Gilbert de Plump ton ; The Artist's Model, an original character ; Abbey House ; Simpson's Cave and St. Robert's Chapel 91 to 101

CHAPTER IX. CHAPTER XI.

Knaresborough ; A Retrospective Sketch ; Eustace Fitz John and Hubert De Burgh ; Richard, Earl of Cornwall ; The legend of "Old Town Bay"; Edmund Plantagenet; Piers Gaveston ; A Scottish Raid ; Edward III. and his good Queen Phillippa ; The days of Chivalry; The Civil War; Knaresborough in a state of Siege ; The Surrender ; A Story of the Siege ; Description of the Castle ; The Church of Saint John ; The Slingsby Chapel and the Slingsbys ; A Melancholy Accident ; E. Hargrove ; The Historian's Grave ; Tale of Cromwell ; Sketch of old Knaresborough ; Saint Robert ; Mother Shipton ; Eugene Aram and Blind Jack, etc.; Scriven Hall; Scotton Village; The De Brus Family ; The home of Guido Fawkes ; Scotton Banks ; Nidd Hall ; Bilton Fields and Conyngham House ; The Nidd at Bilton Banks ; A Sunset Scene ... 102 t Brimham Rocks ; Fell Beck ; Tales of Barguests and other Eerie Forms ; Ancient House ; Fell Beck and Smelthouse ; Wilsill, Bishopside aud Bewerley 159 to 163

CHAPTER XII.

Pateley Bridge : Brief Description ; The Nidderdale Rant, etc. ; The Renowned Brothers Sinclair ; The Pates ; Bewerley Hall and the Yorke Family ; Fishpond Wood ; Kavensgill, Raven's Nest and Bewerley Moors ; The Sabbath Bells ; Guyscliffe ; The Folly and Tarn ; Castlestead ; Eagle Hall ; Greenhow Hill ; Stump Cross Caverns and Trollers Gill ; Old World Customs and Beliefs still existing in the Dales ; Fountains Earth, Stonebeck Down, and Stonebeck Up ; Wath Wood and Waterfall ; Pack Horse Bridge ; A Funeral Procession ; Sigsworth and Robin Hood ; A Moorland Tramp ; Merryfield Glen ; Heathfield ; Gowthwaite Hall ; The Compensation Reservoir ; Ramsgill and Eugene Aram ; Lofthouse ; Story of John Imeson ; Howstean Gorge and Tom Taylor's chamber ; A hoard of Coins ; Blayshaw Bents ; Middlesmoor ; A Scene from the Graveyard ; Dead Man's Hill and the Missing Pedlars ; Stanzas to the Nidd, by W. C. Rushton 164 to 184 102 to 125

CHAPTER X.

Harrogate : A Descriptive Sketch ; A Royal Wedding Day ; An Ancient Forest ; Celtic, Roman, and Saxon Occupation ; William the Conqueror and the Red King ; The Outlaws ; Robin Hood ; A Sketch of Forest Life ; Haverah Park, origin of its name ; A Legend ; The Destruction of the Forest ; The gradual uprearing of a Beautiful Town ; The Medicinal Springs ; Harrogate at the beginning of the present Century ; Magnificent Scene from Harlow's Hill ; The Nidd as a fishing ground ; Fishing Tales ; The Landlord Outwitted ; Killinghall ; Leaven Hall ; Ripley Bridge and the old Water Mill ; A Summer Idyll ; The Village of Ripley ; A Legend of Ancient Days ; Oliver Cromwell and Dame Ingleby ; Sir George Ripley ; The Castle and Church of All Saints ; The Ingleby Chapel and Tombs of the Inglebys ; Ancient Weeping Cross, etc.; Bishop Thornton ; Brimham Lodge and Sir Richard Gresham ; Brimham Hall ; Thornton Beck and Shaw Mills, and forward to the river again *, Hampsthwaite ; The Church and its Associations ; Blind Peter ; Village Life half a Century ago ; William Makepeace Thackeray ; Tang Beck ; A Footpath by the Nidd ; Birstwith Village ; The Beautiful Sanctuary ; A Symphony ;

CHAPTER XIII.

A Rambler's Reminiscences of Upper Nidderdale, by J. T.Lowe 185 to 191

CHAPTER XIV.

The Source of the Rivers ; A Wild Tramp ; Shaw Paddocks ; Amongst the wild hills ; The Devil's Bridge ; Hell Gill ; A famous leap ; Caught in a mountain Storm ; The Summit of High Seat ; A magnificent prospect ; The Shepherd Lord ; Source of the Eden, Swale, and the Yore ; The first bridge ; Lunds and its Primitive Church ; The Dalesman's Story ; A glorious Sunset ; Mossdale, Cotterdale, Widdale, and Shunner Fell ; Cotter Force ; Hardraw Force and the adjoining woodland . 192 to

CHAPTER XV.

page.

CHAPTER XVII.

— Continued. page. Round about Hawes, by Chas. Wilkinson ; Haw es : Brief description ; Buttertubs Pass ; Muker-on-Swale ; Hardraw Falls ; Cotter Foss and Mossdale 203 to 208 Ancient Stronghold; The Church of the Blessed Virgin and St. Alkeda ; Tomb of the Martyred Lady ; Memorial of Robert Thornton, 22nd Abbot of Jervaulx; Mid dleham Moor Fair ; Covbrdale ; Braith waite Hall ; A Solitary Wayfarer ; Coverham Bridge ; Ruins of Coverham Abbey ; Cover ham Church ; " Lady Bab " ; An Interesting Companion ; Homes of Famous Trainers ; Birds Ridding ; A Sequestered Dell ; The Old Water Mill ; Carlton ; Horse House and Bradley ; West Scrafton ; A Magnifi cent Gorge ; A Pretty Glen ; The Thunder storm and the Rainbow : a Glorious Scene ; St. Simon's Well ; East Witton ; The Village Green ; A time-honoured Hamlet ; A neglected Graveyard ; A False Alarm : a Tale of the early years of this century ; Ulshaw Bridge ; St. Oswin, Prince of Deira; Danby Mill ; The Meeting of the Waters ; Danby Hall, the Residence of Simon Thomas Scrope ; The Scrope Family ; A Famous Trial ; Thornton Stewart ; An Interesting Church ; The Ruins of Jervaulx ; The Prior and Jew : a Scene from " Ivanhoe " ; Kilgrim Bridge and its Legend 219 to 274

CHAPTER XVI.

Bainbridge : Memoir of old Forest Days ; The Horn Blower ; Semmerdale and' Semmerwater; Addlebrough ; Countersett, a charming old Hamlet ; A Legend of Semmerwater ; Carr End ; Thwaite End ; Raydale House and its Ghost Stories ; Stalling Busk and Bardale Beck ; Lost on Weatherfell ; A Gloomy Tramp ; Hawes on the eve of a great Sheep Fair ' ...209 to 218

CHAPTER XVII.

Askrigg and Nappa ; Gnangebeck and the Abbey of Fors * Askrigg and Church of Saint Oswald : Millbeck Force ; A Wild Sunset ; The Garland Races ; The Manor of Worton and Village of Thornton Rust ; Nappa Hall; Marv Stuart; A Legend of the Metcalfs; A Story of Wood Hall; The Tramp; Bear Park ; Carperby and Aysgarth Falls ; The Bridge ; The Upper Falls ; Church and Village ; Bishopdale ; Foss Gill ; The Devil's Hull: a Legend ; Newbiggin ; Street Head, etc. ; Thoralby ; Littlebum House ; A Village Merrymaking ; West Burton : a picturesque Village ; The Vale of Walden ; The Temple ; Sinningthwaite ; West Witton ; The Church of St. Bartholomew; Relics; John James, F.S.A.; Edmund Loures ; The Village Feast : a singular custom ; Chantry ; Penhill ; Polly Peachum ; An Old Ford ; Thoresby ; Story of King Olaf ; Legend of a Treasure Trove ; Bolton Castle : a Retrospect ; Queen Mary a Prisoner ; The Attempted Flight ; Lord Scrope ; The Nortons ; Death of Mary Stuart ; Castle, Bolton ; The Church of St. Oswald ; A Charming Vale ; Redmire Village ; A 19th Century Seer ; A Primitive Church ; Scarthe Nick, and the Village of Prestonunder-Scar ; The Yore at Flood ; Bolton Woods : a Glorious Scene ; Bolton Hall and the Powlets : a Singular Character ; Wensley ; A peaceful Village and its Interesting Church *, Many Relics ; The Old Elm Tree ; Drunken Barnaby ; The Shawl ; Leyburn, Bellerby, Hart Leap Well ; The Legend of Harmby and its Buried Treasure ; Spennithorne Village ; The Church of St. Michael ; Relics of the Past ; John Hutchinson and Richard Hatfield ; Sunset ; M iddleham from the Meadows ; A Dream of the Past : its Days of Prosperity ; Warwick, the King Maker ; Review of Noble Owners ; Its decline ; The Castle and Village; Ghilpatric, a Danish Chieftain ; An

CHAPTER XVIII.

Masham : Early History ; Alan, Earl of Richmond ; Roger de Mowbray ; The Scropes of Masham and Upsall ; The Fairs ; Church of St. Mary ; Remains of Ancient Cross ; Numerous Relics ; Graves of George Couitt and Julius Cæsar Ibbetson ; Clifton Castle ; Low Burton ; Binso ; Aldborough Hall ; Ancient Entrenchments; The River Burn ; The Villages of Healey and Fearby ; Remains of Druidism ; Colsterd.ile ; Kirk Gill ; A Mock Temple ; Grimes Gill Beck ; Pott Beck ; Ilton : a Magnificent Prospect ; Description ; Hackfall : Enchanting Scenes; Grewelthorpe and Mickley ; 'Ianfield and the Marmions ; A Martial Race ; Tanfield Church and the Marmion Tombs ; The Marmion Chantry ; Matthew Beckwith and Mr. Littleton ; Slenningford Hall ; Stainley Village ; East Tanfield 275 to 291

CHAPTER XIX.

The Vale of Mowbray ; A Rural Village ; St Michael's Well ; King Edwin ; Reflections ; Well, in Domesday Book ; The Church ; Interesting Interior ; The Hospital ; Ancient Cross ; Memory Pictures of Village Life 292 to 299

CHAPTER XX.

A Tramp through the Corn Country ; Bedale ; A Market Day ; Old Eli the Raven ; The Church ; Massive Tower ; Interior ; Interesting Relics ; The Hamlet of Firby : Snape

CHAPTER XXI.

— Continued. page of St. Wilfrid ; The Horn Blower ; The Minster Church ; Sharow Village ; Copt Hewick ; Blois Hall and Ancient Entrench ments ; Marton-le-Moors ; An Old Track way ; Bridge Hewick ; Givendale and Simon de Ward ; Newby Hall and Park ; Statue of John Sobieski, King of Poland ; A lament able Hunting Accident ; Sir Robert Vyner

CHAPTER XX.

— Continued. page. Castle ; Nosterfield ; Circular Entrench ments ; The Tournament ; Norton Conyers ; The Church and old-time Relics ; The late Rev. W. C. Lukis ; Melmerby, Mid dleton-Quernhow and Thomas Herbert ; The Village of Baldersby ; George Hudson, the Railway King ; Whitestonecliff, a tradition in verse ; Rainton Village ; The Village Sanctuary ; Reminiscences of a and Charles II. ; Skelton Church and Raintonian 300 to 311 Village; Markington ; Wormald Green; Stainley ; Burton Leonard and Cop grove ; Church of Saint Michael ; Saint Mungo's Well ; Staveley Village and Church ; Tit Poole, a Witch ; The Villages of Roecliffe and M inskip, &c. ; Borough bridge and Aldborough ; Review of the Past ; The Devil's Arrows ; Vestiges of Roman Occupation ; Aldborough Church ; Battle of Boroughbridge ; Old Coaching Days ; Barnaby Fair ; Picturesque Spots ; Kirby Hill ; Leeming Lane ; Kirby Hill Church ; Grafton ; Marton and Low Dunsforth ; Myton Village ; Battle of Myton Meadows ; A Scottish Raid ; A Night Visit to the Battlefield; Roger de Mowbray and Byland Abbey ; Aldwark and Linton-on-Ouse ; Newton Village and Churchyard ; Monkton and Beninborough ; York City ; Reflections : Gorgeous Pageants, &c. ; Bishopthorpe, the ancient Palace ofthe Archbishops ; Death of Archbishop Scrope ;

CHAPTER XXI.

The Western Tributaries ; The Source of the Becks ; Kirkby Malzeard ; Roger de Mowbray : The Site of an Ancient Castle ; Noble Church; Mot, or Moot Hill; Wise Men and Women ; Azerley and Galphey ; The Laver; Dallowgill; "Aud Neddy," a Singular Character ; Laverton and Winksley ; Long Tommy and Short Tommy ; A Twilight Scene ; The Skell Country ; Hungate ; High and Low Grantley ; Aldfield ; A Winter's Eve ; Markenfield Ball; A Misty Day; Fountains Abbey; The First Settlement ; Poverty of the Monks ; Increase of Riches ; Fountains Abbey : a Poem, by John H. Fearnley ; Fountains Hall ; Robin Hood and the Curtal Friar ; Ripon ; Saint Wilfrid leaves home at 14, travels from court to court, promoted to Monastery at Ripon, is banished and reappointed; St. Wilfrid's Saturday; Feast Finale 312 to

Chapter I. Nidderdale, And The Yale Of The Nidd

HE river Nidd joins the Ouse, and helps to swell the waters of that noble river, some six miles above the old City of York. On the north bank, resting on a triangle of land formed by the two rivers, stands the village of Nunmonkton. This place is a central link riveted on to the chain of the historic past. For a few miles upwards the river flows through level and monotonous lowlands, burying itself deeply in the soil, winding wearily onward, continually forming the letter S, yet much of the land abounds in rich fertility and great historic interest. On the south bank, skirting the sedgy moorlands, are Marston and Tockwith villages, linking the memory to one of England's great battlefields. Resting on the outer edge of the southern watershed is the old village of Bilton, and its time honoured church ; the construction in and around its walls marks the craft of many centuries.

On the more undulating lands north of the river rest pleasant villages, with grey church tower and tapering spire, rising out of the distant trees, their foundations dating back to the days of the Anglo kings. After passing rural Cowthorpe, where shadows cast from that aged tree have marked the passing of centuries, we soon reach Ribstone and its beautiful park. Here the river winds most sweetly under spreading branches of noble trees. The mansion stands in a charming position, the river sweeping in a semicircle past. Men from the banks of the Tiber, and those chivalrous warriors the Templars, have left their footprints on this spot. Onward with the river we pass Goldsbro' Hall and park, with its noble array of giant trees ; nearly seven centuries have passed away since the first of the family bearing that name dwelt here.

Upwards still the river glides through the old historic town of Knaresborough, where the mental eye can wander back over many scenes of bygone years. Kings, queens, statesmen, and warriors have dwelt here, of whom, now, scarce any trace remains save a broken figure or mouldering effigy, which, perchance, points to their last resting place. At this place dwelt that holy man, Saint Robert ; the weird, scheming Mother Shipton ; Eugene Aram, the dark, brooding man whose deeds have been immortalized in that tragic poem by Tom Hood ; and that wonderful man, Blind Jack, whose work and exploits will live long in the annals of his native town. Between Knaresborough and Ripley the river winds its way through a maze of wooded grandeur, which all lovers of river scenery cannot fail to appreciate. A few miles westward, on elevated moorlands, stands the fairy town of Harrogate, the health-giving breeze wafted to its doors, comes from lands of fern and heath.

After passing the old mill and bridge at Ripley, the banks of the river become less wooded. Hamsthwaite, Birstwith, aud Darley nestle near its margin in quiet pastoral peace. Soon, however, the land assumes a more rugged and barren aspect. On the right rise the grim, gaunt rocks of Brimham, from whose summits can be seen the wildness and beauty of the surrounding country. On our left is Guyscliffe, where rise huge boulders, tinted with velvet moss, and where heather, fern, and wild bracken grow, and all the interlacing herbage peculiar to a wild and romantic glen. Nestling in the bosom of the woods, is the quiet sylvan tarn. Above, the woods slope to the wild bleak moorlands, from whence can be seen the wondrous charm of the smiling vale beneath, along which the eye roams with pleasure to the distant mountains where the river fills her urn.

Passing along the edge of Guyscliffe, we soon arrive at Ravensgill, a paradise spot where nature clothes herself in richest garments. On the opposite side of the river is the curious and picturesque old town of Pateley ; high above, and overlooking the town, stand the ruins of that venerable sanctuary where generations of Dales people have worshipped, and now rest in peace near its ruined walls. " The ivy now with rude luxuriance bends Its tangled foliage through the cloistered space ; O'er the green windows' mould ring height ascends, And fondly clasps it with a last embrace." Still tramping up the dale, we pass on our right the old bridge and beauties of Wath, and reach the grey walls of Gouthwaite, whose curious gables, deep mullion windows huge fire-places, and wainscot partitions breathe of the past.

Passing through Ramsgill the birthplace of Eugene Aram, we reach Howstein. Here a rivulet rushes throu°-h a romantic vale, honeycombed with many a secret chamber. On the high moorland above is the old village of Middlesmoor. Beyond Lofthouse the river sweeps into a gaping cavern, and is lost for some three miles in the bowels of the earth. Still upwards for several miles, following the sinuous course of the stream through the silence of lonely hills, we reach the source of the river under the shade of the mighty Whernside. Scaling the crest of this mountain, we cross the high ridge of moorland which separates Bishopdale and Kettlewelldale, near to which rises the little river Cover, winding its way under the towering height of mist-clad hills, passes through many a sweet sequestered dell, and joins the Yore near to East Witton.

From the source of the Cover over Bishopdale past Semmerwater and Roedale to Hawes, is a region of wild grandeur unsurpassed, around which and far away the grey crests of mountains loom on every side, treacherous pot and ling covered holes, broad, dark, slimy gullies, in wet seasons filled to the brim with peaty water, in summer time have the appearance of dried-up river beds. Around us a ■wild mass of heather, with not one solitary vision of humanity, and no sound save that of a screaming curlew, reminding us of a bird of evil omen. A few half wild mountain sheep dart away at our approach, and here and there, half covered with ling, are the white skeletons of their comrades, bleached by the storms of winter. By chance, on this moorland, the writer once came across a small brawling torrent which suddenly ended its career in an abyss of unknown depth.

There was nothing to mark the spot to prevent man or beast falling in and finding a solitary grave, save a slight dip in the earth. The treacherous hole was nearly hidden by rank fern and lichens, and peering down into the unseen depths, a grey foamy mist could be seen rising out of the darkness, caused by the falling water striking the rocky sides and bottom of the tremendous hole. Passing Semmerwater and Roedale, with their legends, we reach Hawes, the capital of the upper dales. Some nine miles north-west of Hawes is a region of wild barren wastes of moorland, where Camden tells us is heard to murmur at a vast depth beneath the stygian rivulet " Hell Gill." Leland says there is a beck called " Hell Gill," because it runneth in such a deadly place. In the sixteenth century this was a favourite haunt of wild stags and goats of uncommon size, and at an earlier date the prowling wolf and wild boar found a safe retreat in the dreary wastes of this savage region ; yet this gloomy desolation marks the birthplace of two rivers whose after course is through vales of such remarkable beauty scarcely to be rivalled and not surpassed by any in England.

From their rise the two streams have a parallel course for some three miles, after which the Yore takes a south-easterly direction, and, a few miles below its junction with the Swale, joins the Ouse, and flows to the German Ocean. Its twin sister, the Eden, ripples its limpid waters through a vale of such romantic beauty and sweetness to the western sea, that not a more appropriate title than its name, " Eden Vale," could be found. Following the downward course of the Yore, and leaving the immense bare and barren limestone ranges ; past Hawes and forward to Bainbridge, standing on the little river Bain, where still linger memories of the old forest days. On the opposite side of the river are the sombre grey walls of Askrigg, near to which a mountain torrent leaps from the hills in a series of wild bounds to the bosom of the river, now flowing a broad stream through rich pasture land.

Passing Nappa Hall, for centuries the home of the Metcalf Bolton Wouds.— Looking Wear. EDMUND BOGG. family, we come to Aysgarth, where the river falls over a series of limestone shelves, forming cascades of remarkable beauty, whilst the side of the river is clothed with luxuriant verdure, Onward we pass over ground so rich in historic associations, and through a river vale of such rare beauty as to be almost unrivalled in this great county. Frowning on the valley and still defying the ravages of time, is the once mighty fortress of Bolton Castle, built by the Scropes. Immured within its walls was once a fair prisoner in the person of Mary, Scotland's unfortunate Queen. On either hand in our path, villages most rural appear. Castle-Bolton village, resting under the care of its once mighty fortress, forms a picture of past days.

Redmire and its old rustic church brings to our mind the lines of Grey's " Elegy." Preston under Scar is on the slope of the north side of the river, and the village and church of West Witton on the south. Through Bolton Woods we wander, where can be obtained such bewitching peeps of the river flowing deep through a rich profusion of glorious woodland, combined with the brilliant plumage and the sweet music of feathered songsters, makes she place breathe of Paradise. Past Boltou Hall and through the park to the dainty village of Wensley, with its pretty green handsome bridge and most interesting church. Some two miles further, standing on the high ridge of land north of the river, is the quaint but substantial looking market town oi: Leyburn. Opposite, on the south bank of the river, is the town of Middleham, and the ruins of its historic castle, where, in its palmy days, kings and earls dwelt in regal magnificence.

Crossing Cover Bridge and through East Witton, we arrive at the ruins of Jervaulx Abbey, with its memories of monastic days. For the present leaving many other places equally worthy of mention on either side of the river, we pass forward to Masham, leaving Swinton Park on our right. Hackfall next claims our attention. Here all is beautiful, cascades rippling through dell and dingle, mock ruins, and rustic temple, astonishing views over the beautiful vale of Mowbray and the plains of York, and to the moors and wolds beyond. Lowrer, where the river takes a sweeping curve, is the village and grey tower of Tanfield Church, once the home of the redoubtable Marmions, famous in the annals of Scottish warfare. But we must hasten on past Norton Conyers to Ripon, with its long record of ecclesiastical and civic dignity, and its glorious history of ancient days.

Some few miles away, standing by the banks of the tiny Skell, beautiful even in decay, are the monastic ruins of Fountains Abbey. Many a hall and moated grange of the past might be mentioned which we leave for the present in this briel description, and pass forward through rich, undulating meadow and cornfields to Boroughbridge and Aldborough, 2,000 years ago the capital of a people whose kingdom was the land we have been describing. Two miles further and the Yore forms a junction with the Swale, just above Lower Dunsforth. HERE is not in the broad-acred shire greater contrasts of beautiful scenery, nor a richer field for the geologist and naturalist to wander over, for the antiquarian more crumbling ruins, and mouldering tombs for the historian to muse over, more wealth of historic lore from the present era to the misty regions of the pre-historic past, for the tourist and lover of adventure nothing more grandly sublime than its dark mysterious caverns and underground torrents, and nothing more glorious than the mighty ranges of limestone hills, which rear their lofty crests in the upper dales ; whilst for the artist and poet there are to be found such variety of subjects, beautiful, dreamy vistas of river and woodland, sylvan gorges, leaping cataracts, the thatched red brick and tiled villages of the plain country, or the more rural cottage of the upper dale, stern scenery and mountain gorge, or the broader vale with its rich undulating land dotted with villages, meadows, and waving corn land, through which rolls the broad river to the old City of York. Crumbling strongholds, ancient abbeys yet replete with the beauty of their construction, all blend into harmonious subjects for the artist's pencil.