Goldfields and Chrysanthemums. Notes of travel in Australia & Japan

Preface

. "\ ~\ 7"HEN on a long journey, I have always kept a diary, but I have found if it is not printed it is not read ; and I have been urged by many friends to publish the account of our travels in Australia and the East. It is with some trepidation I launch my frail barque on the ocean of literature. But if my book helps to wile away an hour or so, I shall be rewarded for my trouble. CATHERINE BOND. Wargrave, January 1898. CONTENTS. Chapter. Page. i. The Voyage to Australia .... i ii. Western Australia ..... 10 in. Coolgardie and the Goldfields . . 22 iv. Our Journey to Norseman — Camping Out 35 v. The Return Journey to Coolgardie and Perth, en route for Melbourne . . 51 vi. Melbourne ....... 62 vii. Good-bye to Melbourne .... 73 viii. Voyage to Japan ...... 79 ix. Timor to Hong Kong ..... 93 x. Shanghai 104 xi.

Japan . . . • .... 112 xii. Kioto ........ 134 xiii. Tokio .... ... 151 xiv. Chrysanthemums ...... 181 xv. Yokohama ....... 187 xvi. Hong Kong and Canton .... 201 xvii. Singapore ....-•• 218 xviii. To Ceylon 231 xix. Newera Eliya .... . Goldfields S_? Chrysanthemums.

Chapter I. The Voyage To Australia

N the morning of April ioth, 1896, we found ourselves at Charing Cross Station, awaiting the departure of the Orient Express. We were surrounded by members of our family and friends, and it is with mingled feelings we bid them Good-bye to start on a prolonged trip to Australia and the East. The last farewells are said, the train is off, and we are cut adrift from our children and friends for many long months. As we speed towards Dover, we think more of those we have left behind than of the far-away lands we are to visit. We have a pleasant journey to Naples, where we arrive on 12th April. In the leaves of my diary I pass hurriedly over our life on board ship, recounting only a few incidents day by day, for while a voyage to Australia is full of interest and pleasure, it is now so frequently taken, that it is in the scenes of distant lands I shall hope to interest my readers.

Monday, 13th. — We got on board very comfortably, after lunching in the train. The refreshment-place at the station at Rome is really very good, and we had a nice B luncheon basket put up for us there. The Ormuz looked quite an old friend as we came up to her, and we felt so glad we were not going in a strange ship, though of all the officers on board in 1889 only the doctor is left. There are not many passengers, but they look nice. We did not sail till long after midnight on Sunday, and for the first few hours it was rough, and when I got on deck I was very glad to find my comfortable chair and an interesting book. F. is always well, and as soon as he is at sea he is happy; but, for myself, I am not sure that I love a ' life on the ocean wave,' or ' a home on the rolling deep.' In the afternoon we were in the Straits of Messina, and it was smooth and quite lovely, and we enjoyed a walk on deck and our dinner after.

The band played in the deck saloon after dinner, and we went to our berths with open ports and had a good night. Tuesday, i\th. — After a good night I am better. The day is not a very pleasant one, but I sit on deck and write some letters. Wednesday, i$th. — The weather is not very good, we are on deck all day, and later on it improves, and the sea becomes blue and smooth, without any white waves, and people begin to get lively! Thursday, 1 6th. — Up at 7 o'clock, and after a de licious salt bath go on deck and see Port Said in the distance. The day is beautiful, and the air is fresh and invigorating. There is the usual amusing crowd at Port Said, and the coaling soon begins, so we go on shore and walk by the dusty bazaars till we are tired out, for it is very hot and we are only too glad to get back to the Ormuz, which seems clean and quiet after all the dust, dirt, and noise.

After lunch we enter the canal, which I always find so interesting, and it is quite cool. On the horizon we see a beautiful mirage, and when the sun sets it is reflected on the water most perfectly. Then the moon rises bright, silvery, and beautiful, bathing everything in its lovely light. Friday, lyth. — We get out of the canal about 8 o'clock, and some of the passengers leave us for Cairo. A lovely sail down the Gulf of Suez with a sea of amaranthine blue and such a delicious air, and with a range of mountains on either side. Saturday, 18th. — In the Red Sea, but not too hot — 75° in my cabin. Now we begin to make the acquaint ance of the passengers, and the time passes pleasantly away. The Captain is most kind, and does everything he can for their comfort and enjoyment. Sunday, lgth. — It has been a hot night and a hot breeze all day.

Service at 10.30 ; the singing very hearty. I have made the acquaintance of some dear children on board and read to them, ana they quite enjoyed it. We are doing about 350 miles a day and getting well on our voyage. Col. and Mrs. B., who are amongst our fellow-passengers, are quite delightful, and we have many pleasant talks together. Monday, 20th. ■ — I had the top bunk in my cabin moved up to-day, and so shall sleep more comfortably. 88° in my cabin this morning. We passed those beautiful islands, the ' Twelve Apostles,' about breakfast time, and they looked so grand! Later it is 91° in my cabin (the waters of the sea 84°), and keep in the deck saloon all day, as it seems cooler there. Towards night we pass ' Perim,' and signal and are answered. Also see a beautiful meteor. Tuesday, 21st — A bad night, as the heat is so trying ; but the day is cooler and it goes down to 85°.

The captain and officers are now more at leisure. It has been hard work for them since Port Said, and double watches. One of the lady passengers has been very ill from a chill taken in the canal. Wednesday, 22nd. — A very hot day, and every one seems to feel it and is listless. It is impossible to be energetic in such heat. You can simply live out your day, and that is all. We have a very pleasant man at our table who travelled with us from Rome to Naples, and partook of our lunch. He is clever and interesting, and quite an addition. After dinner there is a concert, and O'Gorman and Tennyson, who are going out to a music-hall in Melbourne, are a great attraction, and sing some very amusing songs, also acting them. Thursday, 2yd. — The night has been hot and up to 88° again in my cabin, and I am glad to get on deck early.

The days begin to seem long, and one feels so weak with the unaccustomed heat, though our ship is a most comfortable one, with such a cool, large deck. Friday, 24th. — Another lovely smooth, hot day, with the sea like oil, and the flying fish skimming across it in all directions. I feel overcome with sleep, and not able to do anything but read. What would one do without books on such a voyage ? They do so help to pass away the time. Saturday, 25th. — It seems a shade cooler, and the various invalids are better. Yesterday even Lady T. gave in, and sat in her chair and read all day, and she is usually so full of energy. I am enjoying some of Marion Crawford's books. It is too hot to work. It is so amusing to watch the passengers, they are all so different, and it is quite a little world in its way.

Lady C. is a little shocked with the freedom of the colonial girl ; but I tell her there is no harm in it. The greater freedom is an outcome of the life in the colonies, and the few girls on board are all as nice as possible. How strange it seems to sail day after day on this beautiful ocean, and, but for the great heat when one goes below, it would be perfect ; for on deck one really can keep cool, and the evenings are quite lovely, sailing in beautiful moonlight over a perfectly calm sea, and with the waves of phosphorus falling back from the ship as she glides through them. Sunday, 26th. — Another beautiful day, but very hot, and we have church on deck. About sixty people attend, the Captain reads prayers, and the First Officer reads the lessons. Monday, 2jth. — Up at 6 o'clock and on deck in time to get the first sight of Colombo, which looks so pretty as we approach.

After breakfast we go on shore, Miss G. going with us, as she is travelling alone. We go to the ' Oriental ' as a matter of course, and sit and try to get cool in a quiet nook looking over the pretty garden, the greeness of which is most pleasant after being at sea so long. After some iced milk, which is refreshing, we visit the numerous bazaars in the Arcade, where every one wants you to come and buy. There was heavy rain last night, and the air is cool and pleasant. Nearly all our fellow-passengers are on shore, and many of them are going out to Mount Lavinia to luncheon. The carriages here are mostly low, comfortable dog-carts, with a small seat in front for the driver. Sir A. C. goes with us, and we have a lovely drive over the pretty red road, under palms, bananas, man goes, the papiah-fruit tree, the jack-fruit and the bread fruit ; the acacias are gloriously in flower, and the ' frangipani ' or ' temple tree ' is fully in blossom and filling the air with its delicious perfume.

The bougainvillia, the hibiscus, and many brilliantly flower ing shrubs and trees, all add a gorgeousness to the scene, and the gaily dressed, good-looking Cingalese, much bejewelled, add to the beauty. They look so happy and so contented, and the little brown children, many devoid of any clothing save a necklace or waistlet of beads, don't shock one in the least, but seem a part of nature's beauty. At Mount Lavinia the blue sea, with cocoanut palms hanging over the water, and the goiden sands, form a picture not to be for gotten. Our friends meet us at the hotel and we lunch together, and afterwards sit about enjoying everything. There are the usual pedlars there with their precious stones, silks, tortoise-shell ornaments, &c. &c. ; but I have gone through all this before and am not to be tempted, though some of the unwary passengers fall an easy prey.

After driving back to Colombo, F. and I have Jin riki-shas up and down the 'Galle Face,' and the breeze is most pleasant, though afterwards it makes one's face burn terribly. The hotel is very full, and we all dine at separate tables. We don't go on board till after ten o'clock, and are very tired and hot, and glad to rest where no mosquitoes can touch us. But we can't go down to our cabins till much later as the places are locked up, and everything put away out of the coal dust, and my maid is not on board yet. We pass a very hot night, and there is not much sleep to be had ; but a violent storm of thunder and lightning and a torrent of rain cools the air. As we sail along it becomes rather rough. Tuesday, 28th. — It is fine, 'though heavy showers drive us into the deck saloon every now and then.

We were much amused yesterday by Sir A.'s anxiety to procure some green cocoanuts, as he remembered when he was a young man the delight of drinking the fresh milk, and we were invited to come and partake ; but I am afraid the beverage was not really appreciated by any of us. After a day in Ceylon every one feels tired out, and we mostly sleep in our chairs, it is terribly hot. My face has been very painful from the heat and wind, but bathing it in carbonate of soda and verv hot water relieves it wonderfully, and I have a good night. We are all getting very tired of the ship's food ; but this is always the case. Everything seems to lose its taste. I believe a lady housekeeper on board would be an excellent thing, to arrange the dinners, and to direct the cooking, to see that the dishes are properly flavoured and properly cooked.

As it is, the waste is so great, as you try one dish after another and send the food away almost untouched; and yet this ship is very superior to most ships, and we are certainly having a splendid voyage. Friday, May ist. — The weather is not so fine, and as the rains are heavy, now and then ports have to be closed. One girl had a sea on her head while raking her bath this morning. Last evening there was a concert in the saloon. There is a good deal of musical talent on board, and people are so kind and good natured in singing and playing. Sunday, yrd. — Still very hot, and there are several invalids, as the weather is rather rough and trying. Not many attend at church, but the singing is hearty. Monday, \th. — A little smoother, and people are more lively, but later in the day it rains heavily, and we go about the deck seeking for dry places for our chairs.

It is so much cooler, that I have to close my port at night, and people are putting away their white and tropical clothes, as now we shall get into winter again. We begin to get the roll ofF the Australian coast, which one knows so well. In the evening there is a concert on the third-class deck, which was very much enjoyed. Tuesday, $th. — It rolled badly all night, but the day is a lovely one, and it is so pleasant on deck. I have not seen a ship since we left Colombo nine days ago, and it becomes a little monotonous. Wednesday, 6th. — We have a busy day, arranging all our clothes, as we land at Albany, and we intend leaving some of our boxes there while we go on to Perth. It rains again and becomes very rough, and some of the passengers are quite undone. Thursday, jth. — I feel quite sad that this will be our last day in the dear old Ormuz, and we shall leave her with much regret.

We have made so many pleasant acquaintances and some few friends. In the evening we sight the coast of Australia just before dinner. We have a cool, pleasant night, and get into the pretty bay of Albany about 7.30. Everything looks fresh and green, and we enjoy the smooth stillness of the water in this almost inland lake surrounded by mountains. Unfortunately it rains heavily.

Chapter II. Western Australia

Friday, 8th. — We make our adieux with some fore bodings, for what we hear of Western Australia does not impress us very favourably, and we feel as though we were saying ' good-bye ' to all comfort and civilis ation. There are several mining engineers on board, some from South Africa, who land with us, and also a great many second and third-class passengers. We get into the tug, which is dirty and wet, and arrive at the end of the long wooden pier, in torrents of rain, and are drenched by the time we reach the custom-house — a large wooden shed. After sitting here for half-an-hour or more on the top of a box, the cabin luggage is brought in. F. has gone to an hotel to engage rooms, and I get the boxes through without any trouble. The customs-house officer is very kind and obliging, and I am quite ready when F. comes back to go with him to the hotel.

We can only get one small bedroom, but as a great privilege are allowed two jugs and basins. We have a good lunch, and then return to the custom-house to get the heavy luggage through, leaving two of our largest cases in bond till we return to Albany, on our way to Melbourne. The people here are good-looking, and most pleasant, and they all look so happy, and give us quite a welcome. The post office is a fine building, and there are several hotels and good roads. As the accommodation is so limited we should like to go on to Perth, but find it impos sible, as there is no through train till Sunday afternoon, so we must make the best of it here. As we come out of the luncheon-room we meet Mr. Chapman, who stayed with us at Brighton some time since, and he was so surprised to see us. F. was very glad to meet him, and to hear the Australian news.

He is on his way to Melbourne from the goldfields. Mr. Collins and Mr. Rowe dined with us. I could not help being amused when I went to dress for dinner to find the hot water I had asked for in a galvanised iron pail ; I suppose I must be thankful to get it in anything, for this is certainly ' good-bye ' to all luxuries — must I say all comforts ? I am afraid so. We have only one chair in oui bedroom, and in the writing room next door there is only one ; in the balcony outside, from which there is a pretty view over the bay, there are a few seats ; just now it is too wet and cold to sit there. There is a drawing-room nicely furnished, but the cords of the Venetian blinds are broken, and you can get no light by day, and the windows are difficult to open from want of use, so it is very stuffy.

The cooking is fair, the cook being a Chinaman, and the things are clean, and the waiting good. Saturday, gth. — The weather has improved, and it is a really fine day. The land-locked harbour looked lovely in the bright sunshine, with the hills rising from the shore covered with the Australian bush. We have some delicious fresh fish for breakfast, and go for a walk along the bay. It is just like a fine day in the English October, with the air so crisp and pleasant, and we find a great deal to interest and to admire. There are beautiful masses of granite about the hills, and also some pretty flowers, and we wander into an empty bungalow that is being repaired, and have an interesting talk with the workman. There is a good hospital here, and some say this will be the ' sanatorium ' for the gold-fields.

After lunch we drive to Middleton Beach, and along the sands close to the water for some miles — here is another natural harbour, protected by islands, — and we see the place where one of the early explorers found a good spring of fresh water ; our coloured driver says it was Captain Cook, but I am doubtful. Inside this bay there is a lake, and we then get into the bush which is gay with flowers and flowering trees, and the air is lovely. When we get back to the town we drive up to the fort, and from there we get an extensive view of the bay and its surroundings. We watch the Oceana sail away ; she came in this morning with a crowd of passengers from Melbourne, so that the hotel is now crammed, and although we find our small room terribly cramped and filled with luggage, we may be thankful we have even that.

The maid has to sleep in the laundry, and there are men on the tables in the billiard-room and dining-room, as there are no bed-rooms available, and yet they won't run a train to take these poor people on. Sunday, 10th. — No hot water, no bath, and breakfast very late ; when it comes we enjoy the fresh fish, which is always good here. We go to a very nice little church, ' St. John's,' but there is a small congregation ; the service and sermon so refreshing. Mr. Collins lunches with us, and at 5 o'clock we see him off for Perth. The distance is 250 miles, and they are not due there till 11 o'clock to-morrow. No sleeping carriages, and every seat taken ; what a trying night they will have ! As it is Sunday we have no dinner, but tea at 6 o'clock, so we find the evening a very long one. Our train starts at 7.30 to-morrow, and as we shall have to be up early, we retire early.

Albany is a place that must become important. It is beautifully situated, the air is most invigorating ; but good hotels are badly wanted. It is cruel to keep all these unfortunate travellers here, and not to give them proper accommodation. Either the trains should meet the boats, to take people on, or they should be housed and fed properly while waiting. Monday, 11th. — Up at 5 o'clock, our breakfast is late, and we fare very badly as we must get to the station in time, though, had we known our train would be so late we should not have hurried so much, for we had to wait about the station quite a long time while the train was being collected and harnessed. We left some of our boxes at the hotel, for we did not want to take much luggage on, as we think of returning in about a fortnight or three weeks for Melbourne.

Every one is very sleepy, and evidently there is no hurry. I am afraid with the ' Western Australian ' of the ' old times ' this is the chronic state, and they are not prepared for the hurry and bustle consequent on the rush for the ' goldfields.' I was very much amused at luncheon on Saturday, by the remarks of a young man who sat next to me. He wore pince-nez, and did not look in accord with his surroundings. He informed me he did not think much of W. A., he had been in the country for six weeks, had been to the 'gold-fields,' had been ill all the time, and was going back to England as fast as a ship would take him ; and he agreed with the man who called it, ' a land of sin, sand, sorrow, sickness, and shilling drinks.' I wonder what our verdict will be ? It is a lovely morning, and the sea is blue and beautiful and as calm as a mirror.

We plunge, as soon as we start, into the Australian Bush, where we see the scarlet bottle brush, and other lovely flowers. The delicious bironia is not out yet. There is a great deal of the palm grass, or c black boy,' as it is called, from its resemblance in the distance to the natives ; and also quantities of small sandal wood, which is largely exported for the East, mostly to Japan for making boxes. At 1.30 we stop at Kattaning for luncheon — soup, boiled mutton, and pudding. An hour is allowed for this meal. The land along the line is laid out in ' townships,' but few houses are built. The scenery is very monotonous, always the same bush, and very little life is seen, though we are told there is some game further in; there is a close season for Europeans, but the blacks are always allowed to hunt for their living.

Later in the day the country becomes prettier and more undulating. A fellow pas senger amuses me very much. There is only one first class carriage, and she shares it with us ; she is of the Puritan type, and comes from Victoria, and has a great contempt for everything in this part of the country, and sniffs at all she sees and hears, and sits with her hands folded in self-complacency. The train goes very slowly, and occasionally stops to take up any passenger who may stand in the line holding up his hand. We arrive at Beverley at 8.50, and finding we cannot get accommodation at the Railway Hotel, we go to the ' Freemasons' Arms,' a few yards off, though we have much difficulty in getting our luggage taken there by the porters, and have to appeal to the station-master, who orders them to do so.

We find this little inn much better, it is very clean, and our supper of grilled chops and eggs is most appetising ; the landlord most obliging, his wife cooks, and his daughter waits ; and though we have only a small bedroom, we manage very comfortably, but the night is a short one, as the train starts at 6.30. The breakfast of bacon, eggs, and coffee is excellent, and as we walk to the station in the starlight, we feel quite thankful that we have fared so well. The morning is cold, and I am glad of a warm cloak. When we start again we soon see we are in a more cultivated district, from the fields and houses we pass. We stop at about two miles from the station to let down a decent-looking woman, who came into our carriage. She informs us she is going to the funeral of a nephew. These trains are certainly for the accommodation of people who live on the line, and long-distance people must have patience.

The distance from Albany to Perth is only about two hundred and fifty miles, and we don't arrive at our destination till 11.30 a.m., having been travelling since 7.30 a.m. yesterday. We stop at a station for some time to get hot coffee and rolls. The sanitary arrangements at the hotels and stations could not be worse. I believe all the ill-health of the people is owing to this, as the climate is really beautiful, but, alas ! typhoid is rampant everywhere. When we arrive at Perth we find Mr. Fawcett waiting for us, and we are so glad to see him. He takes us to the Metropole Hotel, where we have good rooms. After lunch we have a drive along the Swan river, which is wide and pretty. There are evidences of a great increase in the place, road-making, and building goes on in all directions. We stop at Osbourne, where there is a fine view of the river and the ocean, and order tea out on the verandah.

But when it is brought to us, it is so uninviting we leave it untouched. We drive in a wagonette and pair, and in some places the roads are deep in sand, so it is quite difficult for the horses to draw us. Bananas grow here in great quantities. It is very hot in summer, but just now cool and delicious. We are late for dinner which is at 6 o'clock. The menu is the same as at luncheon, only cold, as we are late ; and as the cooks are intoxicated, we can't get any thing done, and have to fall back on sago pudding. The noise in the evening was terrible ; the drinking-bars are under our rooms ; I think there are three, and they are kept open very late. Mr. Collins and some other fellow-passengers came in for a cigar after dinner. They are all going off to different gold-fields, in different directions.

They are staying at an hotel opposite, and give an amusing account of their experiences. There are two or three beds in each room, and all filled, and many sleeping on the floor. The hotel-keepers here are coining money. Wednesday, 13th. — Such a lovely day, and our room has been comfortable, so we have had the best night since we landed. After breakfast F. goes out with Mr. F., and having written my letters, I take the maid out, as I am really afraid to leave her — she is so flighty, and has given me so much trouble. I have talked most seriously to her, but I am afraid without producing any effect — she is quite hardened, and I wish so much I had not brought her; she is very useless, and only an anxiety. After luncheon we go to Government House and leave our introduction and write our names, and then walk about the Botanical Gardens, which are pretty, though small.

To-night we try dining at the ' Shamrock,' where we have the luxury of a clean cloth, though I don't think the food is much better than at our own hotel. Thursday, 14//.. — The gentlemen go out to see about getting a buggy and horses for our trip to the mines. All fodder here is frightfully dear. At Perth, which is only twelve miles from the sea, it is i\d. per pound ; at Coolgardie it is 3*/. per pound, and water 2d. a gallon — so that it costs a great deal to keep horses. Other things are in proportion. Apples and pears in Perth are 6d. each ; eggs, 2.. 6d. per dozen. To-day my troublesome maid leaves me. It is quite c a relief. After lunch we take the train to Freemantle, which is twelve miles from Perth. It is pretty all the way, and in many places they are cutting down the trees and clearing for building.