Sand and Canvas; a narrative of adventures in Egypt, with a sojourn among the artists at Rome

Front matter

t\^ i eZ- 1 kkrÆZ.sf^ ■ / \l/ TH E CERVARO CAVES SAND AND CANVAS ; A NARRATIVE OF ADVENTURES IN EGYPT, WITH A SOJOURN AMONG THE ARTISTS IN ROME, By SAMUEL BEVAN. LONDON: CHARLES GILPIN, 5, BISHOPSGATE STREET, WITHOUT. MDCCCXLIX. LONDON : RICHARD BARRETT, PRINTER, MARK LANE. TO THOMAS WAG HORN, Lieut. R. N., WHO BY HIS OWN ENERGY, AND INDEFATIGABLE EXERTIONS, SUCCEEDED IN ESTABLISHING THE PRACTICABILITY OF THE OVERLAND ROUTE TO INDIA; SACRIFICING HIS TIME AND FORTUNE IN DIVESTING THE EGYPTIAN PORTION OF THAT ROUTE OF ITS VARIED DISCOMFORTS ; FACILITATING BY THE AID OF STEAM THE PASSAGE OF THE MAHMOTJDIEH AND THE NILE ; AND RENDERING SAFE, AND EVEN AGREEABLE, THE ONCE DREADED DESERT, THESE SKETCHES ARE MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.

Preface

The matter contained in the following pages has been gathered from a diary, in which the incidents of each sue - cessive day had been regularly noted down, not with any intention of subsequently submitting them to the public, but from a belief that tbe practice, if not actually instructive, is at least sure to repay tbe bttle trouble it occasions. As tbe writer had not been attracted either to Egypt or Italy, by any of the usual inducements which influence the generality of travellers, but bad been suddenly transplanted, by a somewhat singular chain of cncumstances, from the yebow fogs of the great Metropolis, to the bracing air and cloudless skies of the Desert, it was suggested that a rela tion of his experiences, might possibly present something new, even upon those countries, without encroaching upon themes already exhausted by able and experienced tra vebers.

He has not therefore, carried the reader into the midst of scenes with which he is already web acquainted, nor are his pages filled with elaborate descriptions of

PREFACE.

. churches, temples, and palacesXhe bas not indulged in rhap sodies upon the pleasant prospects which greeted him, as well as his predecessors, in a ramble through the garden of Italy, neither does he seek to parade his own opinions upon the many glorious works of art, it has been his good fortune to fall in with. >A11 that awaits the reader, is a simple narra tive of adventures dining a few months' active employment in Egypt, and a description of such places and things,^ ir Rome and other Italian cities, as are more immediately con nected with modern Art and its numerous votaries. The writer trusts that the title of the present volume is too ambiguous to allow of any feeling of disappointment being engendered in the minds of those who may take it up for curiosity's sake, and as Sand and Canvas are at the best but dry subjects, it wib be hardly fair on the part of such as consent to follow him to the end, to retaliate on the score of any previous misconception. London, December, 1848. PAGE. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

The author meets with an advertisement in " The Times" — Finds an unexpected charm in his wig — Undergoes a cross-examination — Receives his credentials — Mistakes his road, and is set right by a friend — Eats a farewell dinner at Blackwall— And finally embarks in a new line of business 1

Chapter II

Discomforts of the Channel — An unpleasant discovery — Horrors of the Rotonde — A traveller's toilette — Chalons sur Soane — Lyons — A transplanted engineer — The Rhone — Aries — The Mediterranean — Marseilles 8

Chapter III

The " Minos" — English and French appetites — Leghorn — Towting Jews — Civita Vecchia — Naples — Formalities of landing — Malta — Mr. Portenier — The " Lycurge" — Syra .16

Chapter IV

The harbour of Alexandria — Mr. Furner — Scene at the Hard — A donkey stand — Triumphal entry into the Great Square — ■ The " India agency" — The English Okella — Plague seals — Confidential talk— Mr. Raven — Hassan, the dragoman — The Bazaars — Arab shopkeepers — The Harraat — Ponipey's Pillar — The baths of Cleopatra CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter V. Page

The Cafe— Arab music— Artful expedient— The Ghawazee and Kowal— Change of costume— The lady from Beyrout— Odd procession — Showers of rose water— Arrival of the " Tagus" — The Overland Mail— Departure of the India-bound passengers— The Mahmoudieh — Atfeh 35

Chapter VI

The Nile steam boat— A deck dinner— Boulac— The Esbekier — The "Grand Eastern Hotel"— Mr. Raven's office— The transitbusiness — Loading of the camels — Departure of the caravan — The Desert— The Stations— Water 45

Chapter VII

Desert fare — The Bawaub — No. 4 Station — A siesta — The solitary tree — Pestilential breezes — A dry well — Suez — Waghorn's Hotel — The " Berenice" — Return to Cairo — A thirsty driver — Cool reception at a warm bath — The pendant rag . . .58

Chapter VIII

An Egyptian hammam — Inhuman tortures — The barber — The chiropodist — Delightful respite — Pale ale and Manillas — Raven's collection — Dr. A. — Antiquities — Mr. Bell — His African adventures — The White Nile expedition 70

Chapter IX

The Nile boat — Voyage down the river — Defensive preparations — Sudden squall — Narrow escape — Alexandria — Rival hotels — Lessons in donkeyship — Domestic cookery — The " Great Liverpool" — Physiology of the Seis 82

Chapter X

Cairo — The Turkish bazaar — Test of a sword blade — The " Little Nile" — Recollections of the plague — The Eglintoun tents — Proceedings in the " Great Square" — Astonishment of the Pasha A Mahomedan Dinner-party— Novel dishes — A Jewish wedding Impertinent curiosity— The bride's dower — A cunning Hebrew CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XI. Page

Dwarkanauth Tagore — Storm in the Mahmoudieh — A chapter of accidents — The half-drowned cadet — Arab knavery — Effects of the murrain — Donkey-chairs — A midnight gallop — Alteration in prospect — My van and its occupants — An enraged Portuguese — Disagreeable situation — Christmas-eve — Midnight interruption — Goose and Champagne 106

Chapter XII

Influx of travellers — Provision stores — The preserved " round" — New Year's-day — Melancholy opening of New Year — Visit to the Pyramids — Old Selim — A moonlight walk — The Sphynx and German sa vans — Ascent of Cheops — The interior of the Pyramids — Unceremonious intruders — Trial of skill — A crack shot . 123

Chapter XIII

The village of Sakhara — Sheik's house — The brick pyramids — Mummies — The sacred ibis — Return to Cairo — An agreeable billet — Preparation for a voyage — Disappointment — A parting — The last journey across the Desert — A dilemma — Bedouin Arabs — No. 4 Station — Departure from Cairo — Dinner at Mr. L.'s — Alexandria 140

Chapter XIV

The " Minos " again — Cafe Francais — The Enfield stage — Departure from Egypt — Change of boats at Syra — A gale in the Mediterranean — Malta — The quarantine harbour — Fort Manuel — Inquisitive guardiano — Travellers' collections — sanitary regulations and low diet— The parlatori — Resources in quarantine — Happy release 156

Chapter XV

Choice of a route — The " Ercolano " — Syracuse — The Albergo del Sole — Sicilian cobbler — The ear of Dionysius — Beautiful gardens — Museum — Messina — Ancient fresco — Tropea — Stromboli — Naples — "Hotel de New York" — Herculaneum — Pompeii — Streets — Shops — Private houses — Progress of excavation . .168 CONTEXTS. X PAGE

Chapter XVI

The Campo" Santo— Churches— The Miserere— Curious sculpture— Agnano— Grotto del Cane— Frogs — Pozzuolo — Cave of the sybil— Hot springs— Boiled eggs— Hot sand— No end of phenomena— Baiæ— Vesuvius— Resina— The hermitage— Fatiguing ascent— The crater— Coming down with a run— The " Mongibello" — Civita Vecchia — Rome I83

Chapter XVII

The Roman Douane — The Hotel Cesarj — Meditations— The Caffe Greco — Its occupants — Morning walk — Wine carts — The Ruspoli — Bellamy's toilet — Preparations for the Cervaro — The robing-room — Choice of a dress — The livery stable — Porta Maggiore — The Torre dei Schiave — A grand review — The quarries — Incantation to the sybil — The dinner — Return to Rome 199

Chapter XVIII

The " Ponte Molle " club— Technical alphabet— Moccoletti — The black board — Election of candidates — The illustrated chorus — Harmonies — Change of domicile — The Via Sistina — The Pincian promenade — Trasteverini — The French Academy — High art and its votaries — Roman models — Pifferari — Pietro Pombo — The Via Margutta — L , and his painting — Extraordinary model — Pictures and studios ....... 216

Chapter XIX

The " Greco" — Signor Giovanni — Frequenters of the Barcaccia — Pietro — The Roman cigar — Caffe du' Bon Gout — " Punch a la Romaine" — Italian eating-houses — The Lepri — Old Aurelio — Terribile — Roman bill of fare — Sweets — English errors — Dessert • — The Lepri Garden — The " Gabbione " — Its neighbourhood — Fried fish — Alessio — " Una Bomba Alia Cerito" . . . CONTENTS. XI PAGE. 280 298

Chapter XX

The tombola — Mausoleum of Augustus — The montgolfier — Curious finale — The bigliardo— Pool — Sir T. B. — An amusing acquaintance — The bewildered barber — The dog " Pincio" — Preparations for Carnival — Bombarding in the Corso — Characters — Charlatans— The Festini 247

Chapter XXI

Journey to Florence — My friend Luish — A suspicious landlady — Monterosi — Nepi — The hotel — Luish's hat — Civita Castellana — Otricoli — My washerwoman's cousin — The merchandize cart — Narni — Terni — Pie-di'-Luco — The echo — Strittura — Egg diet — Fuligno — Perugia — Boarding-houses — Florence . . . 264

Chapter XXII

The " Porta Rossa" — Journey to Bologna — The Belli Arti — Arcades — Certosa — Our fellow-travellers — The parrot — Austrian Douane — Ferrara — Padua ■ — ■ Caffe Pedrocchi — Venice — The Casa Raffaelli — Gondolas — Luish's professional pursuits — My friend D. again — Titian — Military salute — The Passeggiata

CHAPTER XXIIL

The Caffes of Venice— The " Florian "—The " Imperatore D'Austria" —Piazza — Venetian hawkers — Musicians — Merchants of Caromel — The Schiavoni — Italian cards — The Birrarie — San Moise — An accordeon player — Quintavalle — Queer fish — Dining-rooms — Serenades — Night on the Grand Canal — The Rialto — San Lazzaro — Malamocco — Chioggia— Captain Rovere in danger

Chapter XXIV

The Ducal Palace — Bridge of Sighs — The Pozzi — Campanile — View from the summit — Swifts — The pigeons of St. Marks — Departure from Venice — The Ancona steamer — The Adriatic- Vicissitudes of a sea-voyage — The unfortunate friar — Pola — Its antiquities — The hotel — Ancona — The Custom-house — Disappointment — A village in the Appenines — Fuligno — Assisi — The boarding-house — San Francesco — Musical shoemakers — Spoleto — My countrywoman — Terni — Rome CONTENTS. PAGE.

Chapter XXV

Change of domicile— Francesco— Friends from England— Picture-shops— Old painting— Artists and their patrons— Mr. Titmarsh —Anecdote of N The dinner at Bertini's— The English Academy— Table talk — Harmony — The Americans — Roman gaieties— Torlonia's— The Festini— Hospital of San Michele— The Quirinal— Via Gregoriana— Mr. Raven again— The English church — The Friends' meeting-house — Illumination of St. Peter's 333

Chapter XXVI

Tivoli — Country excursions — Ciciliano — Hospitality of the mountaineers — The Porta San Lorenzo — Visit to the Governor — Another start northward — Florence- — The Uffizii — S , and his head of Velasquez — The flood of the Arno — Mr. M. — Lord D. — Unexpected summons — Pisa — Leghorn — Genoa — The " Diligence " — Alessandria — Turin — The railway deputation' — Expedition to the Mont Cenis — Susa — Bardoneche — My friend B.'s mountain ramble — Successful "Jodeln" — The valley of the Dora Susa— Departure from Turin — Conclusion . . . SAND AND CANVAS.

Chapter I. The Author Meets With An Advertisement

IN

" THE TIMES" — FINDS AN UNEXPECTED CHARM IN HIS WIG — UNDERGOES A CROSS-EXAMI- NATION — RECEIVES HIS CREDENTIALS — MISTAKES HIS ROAD, AND IS SET RIGHT DY A FRIEND — EATS A FAREWELL DINNER AT BLACKWALL AND FINALLY EMBARKS IN A NEW LINE OF BUSINESS. On a sunny morning in the spring of 184 — , I sat lingering over the remains of a late breakfast, at my lodgings in Regent Street. My deed of partnership with Messrs. having been cancebed but a few days before, I found myself left without any ostensible means of disposing advantageously of my time, which began to hang somewhat heavily on my hands, for although, in London more especially, there are a thousand ways of killing time, it is by no means so easy to B THE

ADVERTISEMENT.

. hit upon the right method of making the best use of it. Whilst musing on this subject, my eyes wandered over the columns of the " Times " newspaper, which lay on the table before me, and having glanced over sundry announcements of " eligible opportunities," and notices of various seductive offers of " Partnership," my attention was suddenly arrested by the fobowing : " Wanted immediately, for service in a " foreign country, a gentleman of business-habits and good " address. Salary £250. per annum. Ab expenses paid. " Apply personally to Messrs. * * * *, Solicitors, Token " house Yard." Whether it was that this particular advertisement seemed to me to possess a greater claim to good faith than others in the same column, or that the words "foreign country," had some particular charm about them, I know not ; ab I can say is, that in a quarter of an hour after tbe third or fourth reading of it, I was on my way to Tokenhouse Yard, having paid a rather more than ordinary attention to the appear ance of my outer man.

Arrived at tbe office of the sobcitors, I found upon the staircase, some ten or more persons of various degrees of re spectabibty, each of whom seemed to be regarding a scrap of paper which he held in his hand. With a simdar document, THE OVERLAND OFFICE. I, in my turn was duly served, and found it inscribed, « * * * * 0f t^e Overland, 34, Cornbdl, destination Egypt." I fobowed the rest of my febow-candidates, for sucb they doubtless were, into Cornhih, although by the time we got there, I remarked that the number of them was sensibly diminished ■ but not daring to enter tbe lists with so many individuals, who, if not exactly "gentlemen," might possibly, in tbe terms of tbe advertisement, be more accustomed to " business habits" than myself, I took the precaution of waiting in ambush near the street door, until, one by one, I had counted them all out.

As I watched then faces to mark what success they might have met with, I was not very greatly surprised to hear some such expressions as " No go," "Walker," &c., and gathered considerable encouragement therefrom. Having seen the last of them out, I presented myself and paper, and was ushered through an outer office, into the presence of the great "Overland" himself, who, receiving me with a bow, inquired if I came from his sobcitors. " I do." " Then go, Sir, and get your hah cut, and return here in a quarter of an hour." This cool reception might have damped tbe courage of b THE INTERVIEW. any applicant not quite so hard up as myself, and probably if used, had its weight with many of those who had preceded me. I stood my ground however, and removing my wig, (rather an exuberant one, by Truefit,) I rammed it into my hat.

" Pray, Sir, be seated," said the " Overland." I took a chair and screwed up my corn-age for a cross examination. " Can you drive an engine ?" " I can." " Can you speak French ?" "Yes." " German and Italian ?" I nodded affirmatively. "Arabic?" I was about to assent to this query also, but suddenly recollecting that my interrogator might himself be an adept at that tongue, I seasoned my denial with the assurance that I could make myself master of it in a fortnight. " Do you understand book-keeping by doubly entry ?" Here was a poser. I have since wondered how I ever got over it. I winked at the Overland, and repbed, " I ought to." my landlady's scruples. 5 " I think you'b do, Sir," was his rejoinder • " come and breakfast with me to-morrow morning." I bowed and with drew, and whilst adjusting my wig in the outer office, I heard an order given to the head clerk to admit no more appbcants.

This I regarded as a sure earnest of an engagement, and began to feel myself a man of business again. I fancied my self a fud head tader than before, and stooped very low as I threaded some narrow archways near the Bank. How I got home, I cannot distinctly remember, but I packed my portmanteau in readiness for an immediate departure, in spite of the remonstrances of my worthy landlady, who looked on a journey to Egypt in the light of a w7anton sacrifice of my life, assuring me that I should die of the plague in less than a week after I got there, and making me promise that I would send her off a mummy immediately on my arrival. I was punctual to my appointment next morning, and it was fortunate that I was so, for * * * * was never known to be a minute behind time in any thing, and was in the act of pouring out my cup of tea when I entered bis apartment.

Had I been four minutes later, I might have whistled for my new engagement. Our breakfast over, and some prebminary matters discussed, we hastened to the office. THE CREDENTIALS. " Is that letter ready, Mr. Wateley ? Very good. Now, " Sir, here are your credentials • debver that document on " your arrival in Alexandria, to which you are booked " through, via Marseilles : cab here to-morrow morning at " eight for your despatches, take this cheque, and don't " bother me any more. Good morning !" And the " Overland" vanished into the inner office — the door was shut, and I never saw bim afterwards ! I suppose I must have stood transfixed for a few moments, for I caught a juvemle clerk grinning at me like a fiend. Feehng, that if I hesitated, I ran a chance of being recabed, and losing my new honours, I ran off to Lombard Street with the cheque ■ and had the banker's clerk asked me if it were honestly come by, I bebeve I shoidd have answered in the negative, being somewhat confused by tbe odd chain of events, brought about dming the last twenty-four hours.

As I hurried through Cheapside, on my return from tbe Bank, a hand was laid on my shoulder, and a sandbar voice inquired, " Where I was off to so fast ?" " To Cairo," I re plied, and was again making away, when my friend pobtely insinuated that I was on the wrong tack, and ought to have gone down Leadenhad Street. He was right, and in return for his information, I consented to partake of some sherry PARTING RESOLVE. and biscuit at his counting-house hard by. Here I fell in with one or two others, who, hearing of the turn my affairs had taken, insisted on my spending a last evening in their company, and carried me off to a white-bait dinner at Black wall, from which we did not return until near midnight. I was awakened early the next morning by one of my companions of the dinner-party, wbo had made up his mind to see me as far as Paris.

He reminded me of what I had somehow or other totaby forgotten, that passports might possibly be necessary, and in our hurry to secure these troublesome documents, we overlooked other matters of equal or even greater importance. I turned my back upon London with considerable pleasure, finding that the anticipation of novelty and change of scene, shut the door in the face of all the varied regrets and emotions which had accompanied my former leave-takings. I felt myself cast once more upon the world, to begin hfe as it were, over again among new scenes and fresh faces, and although I could scarcely be said to have a very distinct idea, either of my ultimate destination, or of the occupation in store for me, I felt prepared to view all en couleur de rose, and steer a straight-forward course through all difficulties.

Chapter II. Discomforts Of The Channel An Unpleasant Discovery

— HORRORS OF THE ROTONDE — A TRAVELLER'S TOILETTE — CHALONS SUR SOANE — LYONS — A TRANSPLANTED ENGINEER — THE RHONE — ARLES — THE MEDI- TERRANEAN — MARSEILLES. My friend and I embarked at Southampton about nightfab, in the " Robert Burns," but bad scarcely been an hour under weigh, before tbe breakage of a piston-key occurred, of which the necessary repair caused considerable delay. A fresh breeze too springing up, introduced us to ab tbe horrors of a Channel trip, affording tbe ladies a good pretext for im bibing sundry steaming glasses of brandy and water, which, as I sat on deck, I remarked disappearing by twos and threes down the " companion." One good lady solemnly protested that nothing should ever induce her to return to England by water. I fear it will be a long whde before she gets back again.

On landing at Havre, it occurred to me that I had entirely forgotten to cab at the Overland office for the despatches I was to carry out to Alexandria. A pretty sample this of my THE ROTONDE. talent for "business!" I was at a loss whether to go for ward or return to London for them, but finding that I had at least safely retained Mr. Wateley's letter, winch would serve as an introduction for me, I hurried my friend to the Diligence office, and secured the coupe for Paris. Here I made a halt of one night only, finding, on inquiry at the bureau of Lafitte, Caibard, that my place was duly booked to Marseides. Every one knows the misery of a pro tracted journey in the "rotonde" of a French ddigence : the wearisome imprisonment of two nights and days, rendered doubly agonizing by the horrors of a middle seat, where the unfortunate traveber, lubed perchance by fatigue into tem porary forgetfulness, seeks a pibow on the shoulder of one neighbour, to be gruntingly repidsed to that of another, equady inexorable.

I need not therefore describe the coach breakfast at Auxerre, nor how we ab fought for a pie-dish of cold water at Saulieu to lay the dust in our eyes • nor how the conductor, in a blue blouse, would insist upon squeezing himself in among us, to have a whiff at his pipe, because three out of the four in the rotonde were comely French lasses, and the only females in the vehicle. We reached Chalons sur Soane at last, though only just in time for the steamer, wliich was on the point of starting as THE ARLES STEAMER. we drove on to the quay. My unfortunate portmanteau was in fact the last article which found its way on board after me, as I made a desperate leap to the paddle box, which I succeeded in reaching with difficulty. Paying immediate court to the steward, I obtained just enough water to rebeve my face from its thick coating of white dust, and then sat down to some mutton and obves, which served, when moistened by a bottle of the Viu du pays, to restore my equanimity, though I did not feel fairly comfortable untd after a warm bath at the Hotel de Provence at Lyons.

Here I wrote a few letters, and read for the twentieth time my introductory letter to the agent at Alexandria, which consisted at the very most of five lines, and entered into no particulars of the service for which I had been engaged, referring for such, to the despatches I had so unaccountably left behind me. The fobowing morning dawned as brightly as the most fasticbous traveller could desire, and the waiter having caded me full two hours earlier than there was any occasion for, I had ample time to enjoy my matin of coffee before going down to the quay, where the Aries steamer lay at her moor ings. Here all was bustle and activity, and every one seemed so busy, that I had explored nearly the whole of the ship before any one took any notice of me, and was proceeding to A RECOGNITION. make a critical survey of the engine-room, when a surly voice inquired, "Now then, wot are you arter?"

I had scarce time to reply, before I was recognized by the querist, one of M.'s old men, promoted to the drivership of a Rhone steamer. The conversation of this man, during the time occupied in getting up the steam, afforded me no bttle amusement, for he was sub of tbe grievances of French habits and customs, and declared be should never be quite comfortable like, untd he had taken a drink of beer " out of the pewter." On emerging from the hot and greasy engine-room into upper ah, I found the deck completely covered with huge bales of merchandize, going to Beaucahe, where there is a very large annual fair. We had too a considerable number of passengers, and it was long past the right horn for starting, when we cast off, and floated quickly into the middle of the Rhone, which is extremely rapid, and carried us down at the rate of twelve or fourteen knots an hour.

We touched at many large towns in our passage down the river, and the manœuvering of our captain to effect a stoppage in the right place was somewhat curious. His order (in Engbsh) to " ease her" would be given about a furlong above the parti cular point to be made, and our vessel's head brought round towards the current, as she drifted downwards. Then sol- PONT DU ST. ESPRIT. lowed the order " go on ahead • " and thus with about half steam on, and apparently retracing om course, we generaby managed to hit the place to a nicety. The banks of the Rhone, though generaby but bttle wooded, are, in some places, highly picturesque. Here and there, an old castle in nuns, perched on a high and naked rock, forms a pretty feature in the passing landscape, though we shot so quickly by, that we had barely time to remark anything.

As we neared the Pont du St. Esprit, the river became more rapid, and when I caught sight of the bridge, with its twenty or more arches, and compared then apparent width with that of our good ship, I confess to having shared rather largely in the general feeling of uneasiness, and selected a loose table to lay hold of in the event of a smash. We shot through, however, almost before we were aware of it, clearing the sides by a foot or two only. The dexterity with which the Rhone pdots manage these large vessels in so swift a stream is really remarkable. At Avignon we put on shore many of our passengers, who preferred proceeding by " diligence" to Marseilles, and at Beaucaire we were detained an horn in discharging om bulky merchandize, so that it was dark ere we made a final halt at Aries, a town of considerable antiquity, on the left bank of the river.

There was a great THE MEDITERRANEAN. 13 scrimmage for beds on tbe part of some few of the English on board • for our countrymen, when on their travels, are very prone to betray a feebng of selfishness, wrhich astonishes, and often disgusts, our neighbours on the other side the Channel. I stuck to my trunks, which I am never satisfied to leave to the tender mercies of a porter, and on arriving at the WTetched inn, I found but one bed-room unoccupied, and this I was glad enough to appropriate, although my mattress of Indian corn was so filled with sundry unpleasant noc turnal disturbers, that I had no great reason to be elated at my good fortune. I had no time to view the antiquities of the ancient city of Aries, so was fain to satisfy myself with a sufficiently lucid description of them, to be found in Murray's hand-book.

We had a debghtful steam to Marseibes, though the change from the sweetness of the sea-breeze and blue water, to the stinks and exhalations of its closed harbour, was any thing but refreshing. From its very narrow outlet, the port of Marseilles is perhaps as bad in this respect as any in the Mediterranean. The custom-house was soon passed, for, contrary to my expectation, I had nothing to pay. How they manage to keep a watch over the whole of this large harbour, I can scarcely imagine; land where you wib, at THE MARSIGLIANS. any of its numberless steps, or jump quietly ashore from between the hulks of two big ships, and you are equady sme to be popped upon by some sleepless custom-house official. I took up my quarters at the " Hotel Paradis," agreeably to a recommendation I had received before leaving London, and a more comfortable inn I was seldom at, though at many a more expensive one.