Travels in Buenos Ayres, and the adjacent provinces of the Rio de la Plata. With observations, for the use of persons who contemplate emigrating to that country; or, embarking capital in its affairs

Front matter

TRAVELS IN BUENOS AYRES, AND THE ADJACENT PROVINCES OF THE RIO DE LA PLATA. r /'/y/s///,: c %#vma& <•/ • 1%r///.v, c/.y /'/>,>. Samui ( ,->■■'/ /yO^'^ /-/'■■■ w&. ■■ ■ ■■■ ■ - ■ - — . TRAVELS IN BUENOS AYRES, AND THE ADJACENT PROVINCES or THE RIO DE LA PLATA. WITH OBSERVATIONS, INTENDED FOK THE USE OF PERSONS WHO CONTEMPLATE EMIGRATING TO THAT COUNTRY; OR, EMBARKING CAPITAL IN ITS AFFAIRS. By J. A. B. BEAUMONT, Esq. LONDON : JAMES ItIDGWAY, PICCADILLY. MDltCXXVIll. LONDON : PRINTED BY T. BB.ETTELL, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARKET. TO JOHN LORD NORTHWICK, &c. &c &c. T HIS BOOK IS MOST RESPECTFULLY*" INSCRIBED, BY THE AUTHOR. P R E F A C E. In bringing a remote country under consideration, as suited for the employment of European capital and enterprise, it is the bounden duty of the narrator to set forth not merely the natural advantages and capabilities which the country may possess, but the local obstructions, of whatever kind, which are likely to defeat the calculations of the capitalist and the emigrant.

The neglect of this salutary rule has been productive of immense sacrifices and disappointment to those who have ventured their property and their persons in Buenos Ayres. The writer of these pages and some of his friends have been considerable sufferers from partial representations ; they have themselves largely contributed to draw the attention of the British public to the advantages of Buenos Ayres for agricultural emigrants : but he has now seen the country, and the Acts of its Government, with his own eyes — he has bought his experience at

Preface

. VIII a high price ; and he thinks it a duty which he owes to his countrymen and the public, to offer them the benefit of that experience. The natural capabilities of the country are of the first order, and these must endure ; but the obstructions to their present de velopment, owing to moral and political causes, are such as to demand serious attention. As this book aims at no higher merit than to give useful information to persons who contemplate emigrating to that country, or embarking capital in its affairs, all unnecessary expenses are avoided — large print, broad margin, fine paper, and showy embellishments are not befitting the occasion. There is nothing in the country to court the eye of taste, or inspire the pen of imagination ; the sublime and the beautiful are strangers to its scenes : it contains no traces of ancient greatness, nor records of former worth ; but it is a country which presents an almost unbounded field for the support of man, and which nothing but the misdoings of his own race can render unavailable. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Departure from England — Voyage to the Rio de la Plata — Entrance qf the River — Blockade — Detention at Monte Video — Events there Page 1 — 9

Chapter II

Historical Sketch qf the Rio de la Plata Provinces — First Discovery — Settlements formed by the Spaniards — by the Jesuits — Expulsion qf the Jesuits — Declaration qf Independence — Disunion qfthe Provinces — Insecurity of Property — Geographical Sketch qf the Rio de la Plata Provinces — Fertility — Salubrity — Suitableness for Emigrants — Commercial Capabilities — The Rio de la Plata — Its main Branches — The Parana and Paraguay — The Uruguay — Inundations — Soil — Mineral Productions — Vegetable Productions — Wild Animals — Beasts qf Prey — Birds — Insects — Reptiles — Fishes — Seasons — Winds — Climate — Meteorological Observations. . . 10 — 50 A X CONTENTS.

Chapter III

The Aboriginal Inhabitants — The Creole Inhabitants — The Gaucho— The Peon— The Slave— Cattle Farms, Mode of conducting them — Commerce — Manners and Customs qfthe Rural Population Page 51 — 66

Chapter IV

Division into Provinces — Banda Oriental — Buenos Ayres, the City, Buildings, Fort, Plaza, Town-hall, Cathedral, Churches, Nunneries, Hospitah, Custom-house, Duties on Exports and Imports, Post-ojfi.ce, the Mint, Hotels, Theatre, Butcheries, Washing, Public Walk, Amusements, Weights and Measures, Coin — Entre Rios — Corrientes — Parao-nay—Santa Fe — Cordova — Mendoza — San Luis — San Juan — Rioja — Catamarca — Santiago del Estero — Tucuman- — Salta — Jujuy — Upper Peru, Potosi — Cochabamba — Charcas — La Paz 67 — 98

Chapter V

Character qf the Buenos Ayrean Government — Want of Money and Men — Loans and Emigrants — Decrees qf the Government for the Encouragement qf Emigration — Offers qf Assistance to Emigrants, and of Indemnity to persons who assist others to Emigrate — The Government invite Mr. Barber Beaumont, qf London, to superintend the Emigration on their behalf— Privileges offered to Settlers — Settlement at San Pedro— Rio de la Plata Agricultural Association — Settlement in Entre Rios — Intrigues to detain the Emigrants at Buenos Ayres Means used to induce them to enter the Navy and Army — Obstacles opposed to their success — Forbidden to work CONTENTS. XI on their Land — Misapplication qf their Stores and Funds — Their Tools and Implements taken from them — Con- Strained to return to Buenos Ayres — Plunder qf the Wreck of their Property — Mining Frauds — Joint Slock Companies Page 99 — 131

Chapter VI

Different Modes of travelling in the Provinces — Over-land Journey from Monte Video to Buenos Ayres — Board and Lodging on the Road — Ostrich Hunting — Patriotic Army — Tiger Hunting — Las Vacas — Voyage to Buenos Ayres — Arrival at Buenos Ayres — Emigrants kept in Idleness at and near Buenos Ayres — Their Stores dissipated, and their Funds misapplied, by the Government Agents — Journey to Ensenada — Audience with the President, Don Bernardino Rivadavia 132 — 160

Chapter VII

Persecution and Pillage qf the Entre Rios Settlers by the Provincial Authorities — Journey over land to the Entre Rios .Settlement — San Pedro — Santa, Fe — Bajada — Gitalaguaychu — Arrival at the Settlement — Projected Robbery- Flight back to Buenos Ayres — Voyage up the Uruguay to the Entre Rios Settlement — Alarms — Scenery of the River — State of the Settlement — Removal qfthe Settlers — Arrested by the Provincial Bands — Imprisonment at Arroyo de la China — Illustrations of Judicial and Military Proceedings — Arrivals — Welcome of the Governor — Rejoicing's — Loyalty and Rebellion — Extortionary Tricks qf the Authorities — False Charges — Mock Trial — Heavy Fines on Acquittal — Release on extraction qf the last Dollar — Passports — Voyage backto Buenos Ayres 161 — CONTENTS. XII

Chapter VIII

Journey to San Pedro — Post-houses— Thistles on Fire — San Andres — Areco — Arrecife — San Pedro — Native Inhabitants — English Settlers — Amusements — Dance qf Death — Return to Buenos Ayres by the Lower Road — San Jose de Flores — San Isidro — La Punta de San Fernando — El Tigre — Police — Robbers — An Execution — Dog Days — Anniversary qf Independence — Arts and Sciences — Naval Affairs — Insecurity qf Property — Departure from Buenos Ayres — Rio Janeiro— Arrival at Falmouth Page 19**— 236

Chapter IX

Concluding Observations — Effects qf the War, and bad Faith qf the Government — Disunion qf the Provinces — The War carried on by Buenos Ayres alone — Probability qf continued War among the Provinces, for the Banda Oriental, and with the Indians — Moral and Political Obstructions to the Success qf Europeans — Causes ofthe Failure qf the different Associations — Captain Head^s and Mr. Miers's Works — Want qf Legal Protection — Irresponsibility qf Agents — Insecurity of Consignments — Agreements inoperative — Emigration — Increased Difficulties of Buenos Ayres — Abdication of Don Rivadavia from the Presidentship — New Loan — F sty per Cent, per Annum offered 237—261 Appendix — 'Treaty between Great Britain and Buenos Ayres 263 — 270 Erratum. — Iu page 63, line 7, for one square league anil a halt*, reuel three quarters of a league. TRAVELS IN BUENOS AYRES, ¥■

Chapter I

Departure from England — Voyage to the Rio de la Plata — Entrance qf the River — Blockade — Detention at Monte Video — Events there. On the 19th of March, 1826, I left Plymouth Sound, in the Countess qf Morley, having under my care two hundred emigrants bound for the Rio de la Plata. They were chiefly men of the labouring class, with their families, who proposed to settle on the lands of the Rio de la Plata Agricultural Association, in the province of Entre Rios ; an Association projected under the auspices of the Buenos Ayrean Government, of which a full account is given in the fifth chapter. Before our sailing, news arrived of the blockade of Buenos Ayres by the Brazilian squadron. An anxious inquiry was in consequence made, whether it was probable that this squadron would impede the English emigrants in thenprogress (they being neutrals) ; and the general opinion among the London merchants trading to Brazil and Buenos Ayres was, that the emigrants would not be impeded, and B ENTRANCE OF that the dispute between Buenos Ayres and Brazil would be settled before the arrival of the emigrants: besides this, the agent of the Association, at Buenos Ayres, wrote that he had licences for all the vessels of the Association to pass the squadron ; and a copy of one of these licences, signed by the Brazilian Admiral in chief, Lobos, and the General in chief, the Viscount Laguna, had been received in London.

It was also considered that the poor people had left their employments, and sold their few goods, and that it would be cruel to turn them ashore destitute, upon a risk deemed so improbable as that of their being impeded ; while even if that event occurred, they were sure of being well received at the next port, Rio Janeiro, where great encouragement was offered to emigrants; and from which, when the blockade was over, they might, if they thought fit, remove to the Entre Bios Settlement, or to Buenos Ayres. The possibility of their being impeded by the squadron was, however, pointed out to the passengers, and some few declined the voyage, but no fears were entertained by the majority. They set sail with a fair wind, amidst the acclamations of their friends, and best wishes for their success.

The behaviour of the people, during the voyage, was exemplary ; with the exception of three or four black sheep, for such will always be found in a large flock, no men could behave better : and if ever there was a body of agricultural emigrants from this country who were likely to succeed, and deserved to do so, these were the men. Every thing had been done to secure their health and comfort while on the voyage, and with success. They were con tented and happy ; dancing, wrestling, cudgelling, and other diversions were encouraged to amuse them. Every Sunday, prayers and a sermon were read for their edification. The voyage was altogether an agreeable one, and wholly free from bad weather ; and at the end of nine weeks, at break of day, we found ourselves at the mouth of the great Rio de la Plata.

On the morning of the third day afterward we THE RIVER. 3 arrived off Monte Video, and were boarded by a pilot, from whom we learnt that the blockade, wliich at first was little more than nominal, had become strict ; that the blockading squadron had been joined by a number of additional ships ; and that many vessels which had attempted to break the blockade had been carried to Rio Janeiro as prizes. This threw a cloud over the cheerfulness which had until then prevailed. We bore up for Monte Video, however, and dropt anchor under the hill of that name, forming the western point of the bay; the fortified city occupying a peninsula which is at its opposite horn or extremity. The captain and myself were soon after landed at the town, where I was cordially received by Don Francisco Juanico, a Spanish merchant of great influence and high character.

He expressed his fears that we should be obstructed in our progress up the river ; but he lost no time in introducing me to the official persons who might remove or lighten the difficulties in which we were placed, and seconded my applications by all the means in his power. Mr. Hood, the British Consul, I was first introduced to. By General Muller, the Deputy Command ant, whom I next saw, I was very graciously received, and promised all the good offices in his power. General Majesse, the old Commandant, promised nothing, but re ferred me to the Admiral. I wrote accordingly to the Admiral, and not obtaining an answer (a form not thought necessary among the public functionaries in this quarter, if they do not like the subject of correspondence), I went on board his ship to crave a personal interview.

This, however, was too much to grant ; but from his officers, who were chiefly North Americans, with some English, I received every polite attention, and I was encouraged to hope that we should be permitted to proceed to our settlement in two Brazilian schooners, which would be provided, to prevent our stopping at Buenos Ayres. Many days were consumed in references from one authority to another without any pro- DETENTION gress being made. In the meanwhile, the people on board were not suffered to come ashore ; an armed schooner or gun-boat was constantly alongside our ship ; the people were naturally anxious, but they were still orderly and obedient. At length our negotiation took a decided turn for the worse, aud a peremptory refusal was declared to our being suffered to proceed up the river.

It was in vain that I pleaded our licence from their Admiral and General ; that these emigrants were not proceeding to the province of Buenos Ayres, but to that of Entre Bios ; that they were mere agricultural labourers, and as Englishmen, by treaty were exempt from any military service ; and by contract, that they were declared free from taxes or any contribution to the Republicans for ten years. The answer was irresistible : — " All this has been said before ; but, as a matter of fact, we find that very few of your emigrants have settled in Entre Rios ; that, in the present state of that province, they cannot settle there ; that the bulk of them are at Buenos Ayres ; and that many of them are officers in our enemy's navy and army, and are actually fighting against us. One of your vessels, the Harmony, has been converted into a ship of war by the government of Buenos Ayres; and we have positive knowledge, that the arrival of the Countess qf Morley is looked forward to at Buenos Ayres as an addition to their navy."

All this I found to be too true to be debated further with any benefit, and I accordingly prepared to make the best of the alternative which was proposed, when they added : " If your emigrants will vary their course to Rio Janeiro, their condition will be much improved ; they will be away from the seat of war, and there is an excellent market at Rio Janeiro for English industry, particularly for that of agriculturists and mechanics ; the Emperor is most anxious to encourage English settlers in his dominions; there is an imperial decree, offering free grants of land to emigrants who are able to cultivate it, and aid and support for them until they AT MONTE VIDEO. 5 can get returns for their labour. The emigrants may proceed there in your ship, or we will convey them in ships of our own, and supply them with every necessary free of expense.

They might stop here at Monte Video, but this place is already over-stocked with Europeans, and European goods, in consequence of the blockade ; and as the city is besieged, the emigrants would have to be shut up within it.'1 Under all circumstances, I was not long in making up my mind, that the best thing that could be then done for the emigrants would be, to proceed to Rio Janeiro and accept the Emperor's offers ; with which, if they were not satisfied, they might, as soon as the blockade was removed, and which all parties then thought would be done in a few weeks, or months at farthest, proceed to their original destination. I accordingly proposed the alternative to the men who were ashore, and they were well satisfied with it; but when I went aboard, to my surprise and dismay, I found the people in a sad state of excitement.

They had been artfully worked upon, and told that they were sold to the Brazilians ; that if they ventured on board the black ship (the unfortu nate colour of the frigate offered for their use), they would be forced to enter as soldiers, or to become slaves along with blacks. The confusion of tongues that saluted my going on board was intolerable ; the women were about my ears in an instant. ; the prospect of having their husbands taken from them for soldiers or slaves was too much for even feminine softness to bear. Questions and invectives poured down so thick, that it was impossible to edge in an answer, much less an argument, until they had fairly tired themselves out. Eventually, however, they were convinced that they had been imposed upon by interested advisers, and became willing to land at Rio Janeiro, provided they were taken there in their own ship ; but they flatly refused to go on board the Black Ship, for which they had been led to entertain an unconquerable aversion.

It is unnecessary to DETENTION detail the difficulties and contentions which followed. The end of all was, that the captain refused to proceed to Rio Janeiro, but determined on returning direct to England, with as many of the passengers as would stay with him. About fifty of the emigrants got on shore at Monte Video, in order to remain in the country, the remainder chose to return with the captain ; and on July 7th, 1826, I had the mortification to see our ship weigh anchor, hoist her sails, and bend her course back for England with one hundred and fifty of the emigrants on board. Thus, after having, at a great expense, safely conducted a large body of effective agricultural labourers and their families from the Old World, where their services were not wanted, and many of them were actually paupers, to the New World, where they were in active requisition, all that had been done for their welfare was reversed.

After being kept sailing about in idleness for six months, they were relanded at Plymouth, and, as I have since had the consolation to find, in excellent health ; and although disappointed, many of the people have since declared their sorrow at having re turned, and their willingness to make another trip. For the most part they were reconveyed from the ship to their respective homes at the expense of the Association. The vexation which this unfortunate event gave me, was aggravated by the intelligence that the Buenos Ayres government had deceived us ; that they would not allow any settlement of Englishmen to succeed within their territory ; that all they wanted was our money and men, both of which they would turn to their own account ; that the settlers in the province of Entre Rios were exposed to the greatest hardships ; that they had been despoiled by their pretended friends the Republicans, even more than by the nominal enemy of the Province, the Imperialists; and that it was impossible for any settlement in that province to succeed so long as the war continued, for that there was no security AT MONTE VIDEO. 7 for property or even life.

It was said, that the inhabitants were reduced to feed on horse flesh, but this I afterwards found to be an exaggeration. My first task, however, was to provide for the emigrants who had landed at Monte Video, and to procure employment for them. A more inauspicious time could not have hap pened for the latter purpose, seeing that the town was filled with Europeans, who arrived with the ships brought in by the blockading squadron, and that it was surrounded by a besieging army, which destroyed the labours of the agriculturists. Nevertheless, I had the satisfaction of procuring eligible employment for all who desired it ; and on my return to Monte Video ten months afterwards, I found several of the emigrants in thriving circumstances, and none unpro vided for. My next task was to prosecute my journey from Monte Video, in order that I might see with my own eyes the actual condition of the settlement in Entre Rios ; and if it were necessary and practicable, procure means of removing the settlers to a place of greater safety and benefit.

The pursuit of a task of this kind in a country cf strangers, among contending and lawless troops (I will not say armies), was made up of difficulties, and was not unmixed with dangers. My inquiries and discussions with the natives had to be carried on in the Spanish and Portuguese languages ; and, although I had previously made a tour of Sjiain and Portugal, my acquaintance with those languages, particularly the Portuguese, was insufficient, on my first arrival, for the purposes I had in hand. In this, and in all perplexities, however, I was indebted to a stranger for the most effectual assistance ; Don Francisco Juanico interested himself warmly in the difficulties of my situation, and became my friend and adviser ; his intimate knowledge cf the country, his great experience as a merchant, and (although then retired from office) as a magistrate, and the high esteem in which he was held by all classes, qualified him to be a most DETENTION valuable counsellor and guide to me.

The unbounded con fidence which I placed in his honour and ability I had never reason to repent. This gentleman, after I had been a short time in Monte Video, invited me to take up my abode in his house, and the generous sympathy and kind attention which I experienced from his amiable family, were such as must ever claim my warmest gratitude. It was in the circle of this family, when worn out with the delays and evasions and triflings of office — when tormented by the clamour of the disappointed emigrants — when broken in spirit by the failure of our enterprise, which the protracted war and blockade seemed to render inevitable, that I found solace and relief. This gentleman's house was the resort of the most considerable persons who assembled at Monte Video. The English Admiral, Sir Richard Otway, and his officers, Captains Lord Thynne and Sir John Sinclair ; the French Admiral, and his officers ; the French Consul ; and the wife of the Anglo-Brazilian Admiral Norton, were among the distinguished guests of the family.

I also experienced an agreeable relief in the society of the officers of the Brazilian Admiral's ship ; they were chiefly English and North Americans : the blockade likewise brought me into contact with some captains of merchant ships, who were detained prisoners by the blockading squadron, and were under orders to take their trial at Rio Janeiro. Among the latter was Captain Mundell, master and owner of the Brig Monarch of Liverpool. His was one of the first British vessels detained ; he was a very merry companion, and over the bottle was by no means sparing in his invectives against the Brazilians, who had already so much injured him by the detention of his vessel at Monte Video, and who proposed to do so still further by a trial at Rio Janeiro, in which, if he were acquitted, the delay, which he was aware attended all South American proceedings, must cause a serious loss to him.

He frequently vociferated to his companions, the officers of the Brazilian AT MONTE VIDEO. 9 fleet, that he would not be taken alive to Rio Janeiro, and that he would get back his ship in spite of their whole fleet ; but being very much liked among them, and having the character of an off-hand sailor, they considered what he said as a joke or idle bravado. He was subsequently sent away for Rio Janeiro in his ship, with two of his seamen, under the care of a prize-master and six Brazilian sailors ; but one fine night, on nearing the island of St. Catherine's, he surprised and mastered the crew, who were sleeping in full confidence of security. He then put them one by one into the long-boat, with a supply of provisions and a compass, and bade farewell to the prize master, who was one of our companions at Monte Video, giving him at parting a good-natured piece of advice, not to go to sleep in future when he had English prisoners on board : he then steered for Old England, where I was glad to hear of his safe arrival shortly afterwards.

I verily believe that most of the officers of the Brazilian fleet received information of this escape with secret pleasure, though they lost the prospect of prize-money, and were exposed to blame and ridicule on the occasion.

Chapter II

Historical Sketch qf the Rio de la Plata Provinces — First Discovery — Settlements formed by the Spaniards — by the Jesuits — Expulsion qf the Jesuits — Declaration qf Independence — Disunion qfthe Provinces — Insecurity qf Property — Geographical Sketch qf the Rio de la Plata Provinces — Fertility — Salubrity — Suitableness for Emigrants — Commercial Capabilities — The Rio de la Plata — Its main Branches — The Parana, and Paraguay — The Uraguay — Inundations — Soil — Mineral Productions — Vegetable Productions — Wild Animals — Beasts qf Prey — Birds — Insects — Reptiles — Fishes — Seasons — Winds — Climate — Meteorological Observations. The Rio de la Plata was first noticed by Europeans in the year 1515, when an expedition of discovery, fitted out by the court of Spain, and commanded by Juan de Solis, touched on the north coast between Maldanado and Monte Video.

The commander going on shore at the mouth of a river which has since borne his name, was, with a few follow ers, killed by the natives. The coast was then immediately abandoned ; but in the year 1527, a fresh expedition, under the Venetian captain, Gaboto, entered the river, and anchored opposite the present site of Buenos Ayres, at the same time that a Spanish captain, Garcia, was making discoveries in other parts of the river. They both expected to find rich mines of silver and gold in the country, in consequence of the natives appearing with plates of those metals, which they exchanged for trifles brought by the Europeans. HISTORICAL SKETCH, &c 11 Whence also arose the name of the river of Plate; but it was not until the year 1534 that the first settlement was formed at Buenos Ayres, and the building of a town commenced there.

In the following year a fortified port was established in Paraguay, which was the origin of the city of Asuncion. These and other settlements were not formed without many contests with the Indians, who frequently massacred the whole of the Spaniards left on them. The chief attention of the Spaniards seems to have been directed to forming settlements in Paraguay, as facilitating their communication with the mines of Peru. The history of the country for the fifty years which followed, is a series of acts of hypocrisy and violence ; the professions of friendship of the Spaniards on the one hand, resolving into acts of spoliation and enslavement, and the shows of submission by the natives on the other, terminating in surprises and massacres whenever opportunity offered : many thousands of Spaniards were killed by the natives ere they established the superiority of the Spanish power.

It is no more than justice to the Spaniards of that generation, however, to say, that when their power became undisputed they used it with mercy and benevolence ; they clothed and instructed the Indians who settled among them, supported them when helpless, gave them land to cultivate for their separate use, allowed them two or more days in the week to themselves, and after a service of two years considered them free and their equals. This was the work of the laity alone ; it was done without expense to the government, and in the course of fifty years, while this order of things continued, almost all the towns which are now existing were founded. But at the end of the sixteenth century a different feeling arose ; superstition offered its aid, the imaginations of the Indians were successfully practised upon by the Jesuits, who were sent over to instruct them, and who formed multi tudes of them into separate communities of a joint religious, military, and manufacturing character, called " Missions."

EXPULSION OF All the rites and ceremonies of the Romish church were displayed in full pomp to the eyes of these poor Indians. They were also marched to their labour in procession to the sound of bands of music, and the chaunting of hymns ; similar forms accompanied tlieir return. All their motions were restricted and watched ; all they produced was thrown into a common stock ; rations and clothes were given out equally to the industrious and the idle, the able and the imbecile ; no reward arose out of good conduct, nor punish ment followed upon bad, unless it were a great theft, or disobedience to their superior. Both parents and children were uninstructed in the moral duties, but were compelled to endure religious austerities, and practise numerous ceremo nies. The strict performance of these ceremonies, and passive obedience to their superiors, were the great duties inculcated.