A Journey to Marocco, in 1826

Front matter

A JOURNEY TO MAROCCO .. B eajjLclerk puajQt. * Qji Btune iij -».i.t_. A young Caid, an elderly one, euid a Soldier, c" [he Aam 1 a ijs ['iiniM i'v .iv-*!tiih n. '., .1. __.tmi.rtet KCu A JOURNEY TO MAROCCO, In 1826. BY CAPTAIN G. BEAUCLERK, TENTH INFANTRY. LONDON: PRINTED FOR POOLE AND EDWARDS, 12, AVE-MARIA LANE, AND WILLIAM HARRISON AINSWORTH, 27, OLD BOND STREET. 1828. TO THF. MOST NOBLF. REGIMENT OF ROYAL WELCH FUSILIERS THIS WORK IS DEDICATED BY CAPT. G. BEAUCLERK, AN ADMIRER, AND LATELY A SHARER, OF ITS LASTING HONOURS. TO THE OFFICERS OF THE 5til!" REGIMENT, OR ROYAL WELCH FUSILIERS. MY DEAR BROTHER OFFICERS, Permit me from feelings of personal attachment to you, and of pride at having been bred a soldier beneath the colours of so pre-eminently distinguished a corps as the Royal Welch Fusiliers, to dedicate to your friendly patronage the following pages.

Convinced as I feel, of the reciprocity of our attachment, I shall, without awaiting your consent, present you with the first-born of my pen, though I do not require you, in your situation as godfathers, to be answerable for its errors, until its merits or demerits are confirmed by the public, or until it has arrived at years of discretion, and is fit to go alone; an indefinittide of age both in books and men, which would prove very detrimental to the peace of patrons and god fathers. As a soldier and a friend, I am, at all events, more likely to find favour in the eyes of my profession, as I trust your partiality will grant me many indulgences, which I can hardly hope for from a more severe tribunal. But let my sentence in the court of criticism be what it may, it will be ample compensation for the pains of writing my journal to find that I have succeeded in pleasing you, though but a slight return for the many acts of kindness for which I must ever remain your insolvent, but truly attached and grateful debtor. G. Beactclekk. Cork, December 1, 1827.

Preface

. In venturing to appear before the Public in the new character I have assumed, in despite of the many alarming predictions of those whose spirit of adventure is guided by grandmama's careful admonitions, to " look well before you leap," and " never to get wet feet," neither of which are very likely to help you over a ditch, I deem it necessary to make an apology, first, to the above mentioned ladies for my neglect of their very dry and wholesome advice ; and secondly to my readers, for what may at first sight appear a still bolder adventure, namely, my undertaking to tread in the foot-steps of that correct writer of Travels, Ali Bey, who has not only reaped the harvest before him, but gleaned it too so carefully, that hardly anything remains for me to tell but " The tale of a Straw." Induced, however, by a wish to detail what I consider interesting or useful to a country in close alliance of friendship with the States of Marocco, not to say any thing of that feeling of literary vanity all have, but few dare to own, I have deter mined, as the vulgar expression is, " to put my foot in it," contrary to the above maternal injunc-

PREFACE.

. VU tions, hoping that if I do alight in the mire, I shall still find a passing friend who will again set me on my legs, knowing however, that there are also some who will not scruple to push me deeper in. Notwithstanding the mysterious in consistency of Ali Bey's profession of Ishmailism, and his complete exposition of all that a Maho metan holds sacred and concealed from the eyes of an unbeliever, even to the holy relic,* of which he talks in such veneration, with an exclamation of wonder, " at the wisdom of divine Providence in thus enriching (by the donations of devotees) one whole family, by a single tuft of hair," the strictest reliance may be placed in the truth of his narrative concerning those parts of Marocco through which I have travelled, where his name is well known. The authenticity of this part of his work is of consequence, more on account of his eastern travels, than those in Ma rocco.

Besides the disadvantages of having to avoid repeating whatever he may have detailed, which I have strictly endeavoured to do, (except indeed where my view of any thing has differed from his) I have also to contend against those of long-suffering from ill-health, during my residence in Barbary, and the want of that finished educa- * Mahomet's hair shewn at Constantinople as a relic— Vide Ali Bey's Travels. vtn

PREFACE.

. tion which my errant style of life has prevented my attaining. At the early age of thirteen, I ex changed the pen, or rather uncut quill, for the sword, and during the last nine years, I have had the honour to serve his Majesty in two different services, in various parts of the globe. Hope not, therefore, reader, to be rocked into an easy slumber by long and learned quotations from profane wri ters, tending to prove what can alone be interest ing to dusty book-worms and musty antiquarians ; but, if you are content to accompany me in my vagaries as a citizen of the world, and take the rough and smooth as it may occur, jump up behind me on my mule's back ; his paces are irre gular, 'tis true, but though he may often stumble, I trust we shall find that he reaches his journey's end without falling to the ground.

Chapter I

The Object of the Mission. — Arrival at Tangiers. The Sultan of Marocco having, in July 1826, made application to the Lieutenant-Governor of Gibraltar for medical assistance, Dr. Brown, of the Royal Medical Staff, was appointed to this service. As the Sultan had written to Sir George Don, the Lieutenant-Governor, under his own hand, (through Mr. Bennoliel, a Jewish agent, and a man of great wealth and respectability at Gibral tar,) it was supposed that the urgency of the request was to be attributed, either to some serious illness under which the Sultan himself laboured, or to the fact of his being engaged in some war, which would render medical assistance valuable. Dr. Brown, therefore, prepared to depart with all possible despatch ; and having received Sir George Don's permission for two officers of the garrison to accompany him on his mission, he invited for that purpose Captain Beale, of the Royal Welsh Fusiliers, and Mr. Murray, of the sixty-fourth regiment.

Owing, however, to the shortly-expected departure of another mission from Naples, for Marocco, as well as to some private business which demanded his presence at Gibraltar, Captain Beale chose rather to avail himself of the opportunity of accompanying the latter mission at a later pe riod. Partly, therefore, to these circumstances, but more, perhaps, to Captain Beale's per sonal kindness, am I indebted for that cession of his right in my favour, which has enabled me to present the following pages to the Public. The suffering anj! fatigue which we afterwards under went, prevent me from feeling regret that my friend's kindness should have been the means of ultimately depriving him of the power of following us. Being supplied with all things necessary for our journey, with that liberality for which the heads of our government departments are so conspicuous, and which, throughout every branch of the state, conduces, in so eminent a degree, to the effectual accomplishment of all British undertakings, we only awaited a westerly breeze to transport us to Tetuan, on the Barbary coast, whence we were to proceed to Marocco.

A Levant wind springing up, however, on the morning of our intended de parture, we resolved to alter our course, and make for Tangiers ; and we embarked on board our felucca, accordingly, on the morning of the 18th of July. We had now to submit to the censur able delay for which Mediterranean mariners are J0URNEV TO MAROCCO. proverbial ; and it was not until about two o'clock p. m. that two fresh passengers came on board in the persons of two Moors : the one a resident merchant at Gibraltar, El Hadge Hadoud Kis souse, proceeding to Rabat, his birth-place, on business : and the other, a suitor from Madrid ; where, poor simple soul, he had been vainly en deavouring to obtain redress from the Spanish government, for an injury done to the Sultan by the capture of one of his Highness's vessels, by a piratically-inclined Guarda Costa, or custom house vessel.

We at length got under weigh, but the Levant wind dying away, we were taken aback by a slight south-easter from the Straits, before we had reached Cabrita Point, and to avoid being back-strapped,* we were compelled to stand for the anchorage. Towards the middle of the night, * A term used by sailors to express one of the most annoying dilemmas in which our homeward-bound vessels can be plaord. Ships sailing from Gibraltar with a light westerly wind, should be cautious to hug well the Spanish coast, until they have cleared the bay ; for if they stand out into the eternal in-running current of the Straits, and then lose the wind, or get taken aback by a westerly one, their doom is inevitable : away they go ; carried at the mercy of the current behind the rock towards Malaga ; whence they cannot return until a strong Levanter come to their aid.

A delay of four or five weeks is the penalty frequently paid by neglectful or presumptuous captains of vessels, who, if unacquainted with the station, are sure to fall victims to their self-sufficiency, and neglect of good advice. The safest plan to follow, is to remain in harbour until the westerly wind is a con firmed one, as it often comes on for three or four hours only, as though for the purpose of playing the sailors a trick, and enticing them from their anchors. B the Levant wind again enticed us from the harbour, and deserted us again at three o'clock in the morning ; but after making use of our sweeps in shore, we anchored, at four o'clock, within two miles and a half of Tarrifa light-house. We had left Gibraltar in full expectation of ending our voyage before daylight the next day, and having, consequently, come away unprovided with the necessary provisions for a longer passage, our boat was hoisted out, and despatched to Tar rifa for a supply.

On approaching the town, we were hailed by a smart gentleman in a pink waist coat, flourishing a gold-headed rattan, when the following colloquy ensued : — " Where are you from ?" " Gibraltar : bound to Tangiers; having on board English officers proceeding to the court of Marocco." "What do you want here?" " Fresh provisions for a day, and liberty to land for a few hours." " You cannot do the latter, as there is a quarantine of eight days from Gibraltar, but the provisions shall be supplied you, on promise of payment of two dollars harbour dues." Against this, however, our captain loudly exclaimed, as an imposition of "Pink Waistcoat's," as his vessel was anchored in the Straits, far from Tarrifa harbour. It happened, fortunately, that Mr. Murray had but lately left Cadiz, where he had become very intimate with the officers of the French garrison, one of whom was Governor of of the garrison of Tarrifa, to whom he sent a note, by a French corporal standing on the beach, requesting permission to land.

In a short time our dunning friend of the customs returned with the corporal, and apprised us we had leave to land; accompanying this intimation with sundry hints about the two dollars, to which no one seemed anxious to pay any attention. The French commandant, a tall handsome young man, received us with great courtesy, and pressed us to stay to dinner, which, however, we declined, as we intended only awaiting the return of the eddy tide to sweep our felucca farther to windward. After a short conversation, therefore, we took our leave, and the commandant's aid-de-camp, a young officer of most pleasing manners and ap pearance, attended us to the victualler of the troops, who supplied us, by his order, with the necessary provisions, which were prepared for us whilst we partook of some refreshment with the officers.

We then returned to the beach, and, having thanked our kind providers, pushed off in our boat for the felucca. Here I cannot help bearing testimony to that very gentleman-like and ready politeness which so distinguishes a French military man ; and to those at Tarrifa, in particu lar, I beg leave, in the name of my companions, to offer our sincerest thanks for the kind atten tions we experienced on this occasion. No sooner were we in the boat, than our sailors complained to us that a Spanish Guarda Costa had gone alongside of the felucca in our absence, under pretence of searching her for tobacco, the captain of her declaring that he would not leave her until he had searched our baggage, and insisting on one of his own men accompanying our sailors in the boat which had come to convey us to the felucca.

Hereupon they pointed to a half starved ragged-looking fellow sitting in the bow of the boat, whom I asked, if he thought he could swim from the felucca to the shore. The fellow seemed as much alarmed at this question as if I had been in the very act of throwing him over board ; and when taxed by the Genoese boatmen with piracy, he frankly acknowledged that his companions and he were often obliged to rob vessels, as " the king of Spain was but an indif ferent paymaster." This confession was rather alarming. I there fore inquired the number and strength of our visitors, which I found to consist of nine men, armed with one six-pounder, and a few rusty old muskets ; and then addressing our Genoese in French, I bade them prepare for resistance in case of need, representing to them that we were thirty in alls having superior arms, and that all we had to fear was the possibility of the vessel pushing off, and making use of herswivel, which a hammer and nail would easily render impracticable.

Our crew readily acquiesced in the pro priety of what I said, and indeed seemed anxious to convince us in what slight estimation they held the Spaniards. Thus determined, we soon reached the felucca, along side of which lay the Guarda Costa, with two men only in her, the rest being on board our vessel. As I jumped on board, I observed a Spaniard standing near the companion, whom, with no little inclination to throw the fellow overboard first, and then expostulate with him, I thus addressed :— " Who are you ?" " Captain of the Guarda Costa, Senor," replied he. " What is your business here, then?" " I thought you were a smuggler, and therefore came on board to search for tobacco." " Well," said I, " you are, I presume, now convinced of your error ; and as to your examining our baggage, look at this red coat, and at the English ensign waving over your head, and then search at your peril."

So saying I retired below, and having loaded my pistols, returned on deck, and asked the captain of the Guarda Costa what papers he could exhibit in proof of his not being a pirate. To this he replied by producing a bill of health, dated three days back, from the Health Office at Cadiz. " Now," said I, " do you not see that we should be fully justified in looking upon you as a pirate, and as such, in throwing you overboard ?" The captain seemed at length greatly alarmed at the turn which the conversation was taking, and strenuously protested his innocence, as a proof of which he pointed to a larger vessel to the eastward, to hi ch he was attached. I then quietly told him to leave the felucca immediately, and that, as I much questioned his right to board any vessel under English colours, for the purposes which he had avowed, I should take the earliest opportunity of reporting the circumstances to his government through the Spanish consul at Tangiers.

He then only begged that our captain would give him a certificate of his not having done him any injury, and this request being ac ceded to, he jumped on board his own vessel, and pulled away. It was at this time a perfect calm, so that, had we captured the Guarda Costa, the larger vessel in the offing might have come to her assistance : but had there been a good breeze at the time, we might have easily carried her off to Tangiers as a prize, in which I imagine we should have been perfectly justified. The Guarda Costa had no sooner left us, than we observed him of the waistcoat waving to us from the beach, and calling to our boat, for the payment of the two dollars harbour-dues before-mentioned. Our captain seemed, at first, disposed peremptorily to refuse compliance with this exaction ; but ob serving signals making to the other vessel in the offing, he deemed it more prudent to submit with a good grace.

Having again weighed anchor, we succeeded, by the help of the eddy-tide and our sweeps, in reaching Tarrifa anchorage, where, as we had now paid the dues, we determined to await the springing up of the night breeze. The evening was one of those delicious specimens of nature's repose, which we often witness in southern climes. All the elements lay hushed in peaceful unison ; the most perfect tranquillity prevailed around ; and the fiery orb of heaven sat enthroned in the blue ethereal, in unclouded majesty of brightness. The glassy mirror of the Straits reflected on either side the mighty herculean pillars, on whose rugged heads the departing sun was shedding his rosy light, while the deep ravines and valleys below were darkening into purple shades. Near us lay the town of Tarrifa, sloping from the heights to the water's edge, and surrounded by an ancient Moorish wall, turreted at irregular distances ; while groups of young girls were bathing and sporting in the water, in primitive innocence, unheeding the distant gaze of men, whose good breeding in this country prevents their too near approach on these occasions.

Mo desty consists not in mere outward forms, nor the breach of it in the performance of that which in one country is considered indecorous, and in others is naturalized by custom. Throughout the whole of the Mediterranean this natural and healthy amusement is practised without any de moralizing effect, except, indeed, at Malta, where the promiscuous bathing of the two sexes takes place during the evening, and a greater part of the night, with bands of music attending in the boats. The women of Tarrifa are very beautiful, par taking more than their country-women in general of that mixture of Moorish features so observable in all the inhabitants of the southern provinces of Spain. Following the custom of their semi ancestors of the Moorish tribes, they still continue to veil their faces from public view when walking, shewing one eye only, which, however, has from habit learned to do very efficient duty for the other, as well as for the mouth, though the use of the latter in Spain has become almost super fluous from the intelligent language of the fan.

If then the fan even be eloquent, imagine the power of the rosy abode of speech, giving utterance to a language, the very offspring of romantic love ! The town of Tarrifa presents nothing beyond its female attractions, which can be deemed worthy of notice. It is commanded by the heights around, but fortified towards the sea by a long-tongued battery, stretching out into the Straits on a bed of rocks, at the end of which stands a light-house, supported by an incon siderable tax levied on all vessels which have occasion to feel its beneficial effects. A light breeze springing up from the eastward at six o'clock, we weighed anchor for the last time, and passed Tarrifa light-house. As the refracted sun sank slowly into the western ocean before us, the wind freshened, and, at about ten o'clock, we cast anchor in Tangiers bay ; but the gates of this town being always closed at sun-set, we were not able to disembark, and we therefore spread an awning on deck, and there laid ourselves down to rest, preferring the open air, to the stench of cockroaches in the cabin below.

Early the follow ing morning we obtained permission to land, and accordingly quitted our felucca, and hastened on shore, where we were kindly received, and en tertained during our stay, by Mr. Douglass, the Consul-general for Marocco, who extends his hospitality, impartially, to all who visit Tangiers.

Chapter II

Tangier* and its Vicinity Described. — A Visit to the Jews' Houses. — Account of the Paschal Dance, and of a National Military Recreation. — The Horses of Tangiers. — The Moorish Gun. Tangiers, or as the Moors call it Tangha, is but little remarkable from the sea. The similarity of the low, flat-roofed, white-washed houses, stretching one above another, like tombs, up the side of a hill, gives it a very monotonous appearance. It is situated on ground that forms a sort of amphitheatre ; and on the heights to the north, stands the castle, an extensive ruin, inhabited by the Basha and the storks. The town boasts of no other public building worthy of notice, except the large mosque, which has a square minaret or tower, the exterior of which is prettily inlaid with small coloured glazed tiles, disposed in a variety of patterns.

In the course of the morning we waited on the Basha, who received us very courteously in an arched passage leading to his apartments. He is a tall handsome man, with a very intelligent countenance, and a soft polite address. He in formed us that the mules which we should require for our journey would not be ready for three days, as it would be necessary to send to Tetuan for them, whither they had been despatched for our use, under the idea that we should have disembarked at that place. He begged that in the meantime we would not scruple to ask for any thing we might require, which he assured us we should be immediately supplied with. The conversation then turned upon the state of his health, which he expressed hopes might be ameliorated by the doctor's assistance ; but he afterwards confessed that he had never taken the pills which were sent him.

We then took our leave, and on our arrival at the consulate, we found a Moor bearing us a present of a sheep, some fowls, eggs and wax-candles ; which supply was sent us daily while we remained at Tangiers. On our road from the castle we were joined by our friend Hadge Hadoud Kissouse, with whom we had become very intimate in our passage from Gibraltar, and who, from his knowledge of the Spanish language, was extremely useful to us. He invited us to accompany him, in the evening of the following day, to the house of a friend of his, for the purpose of hearing some Moorish music ; and it being our wish to see as much as possible of Moorish society, we promised to avail ourselves of his invitation. Meantime, to fill up the remainder of this day, Mr. Douglass having been kind enough to supply us with mules, we accompanied that gen tleman in a ride which he took daily, and which afforded us the opportunity of seeing a little of the country.

The soil in the immediate vicinity of Tangiers, owing to its contiguity with the sea, is formed of a deep white sea-sand, which accu mulates with great rapidity. It is here the inha bitants bury their dead, over whom the richer relatives of some of them raise small arched tombs. As we got further into the country, we found a rich, dark-coloured soil, bearing a most abundant crop of Indian wheat. Not a single tree was to be seen for miles, except at a few private gardens ; but the ground rises and falls in soft undulations, and requires the addition of wood only, to make it a beautiful country. To this barrenness, how ever, there is one exception, about three miles from Tangiers, at a place called Mount Washing ton, so denominated from the circumstance of its having been tenanted and much improved by the Consul of the United States.

This spot we did not at this time visit, but as I have myself seen it on a former occasion, I do not scruple to mention it here. It is a charming seclusion, richly wooded with a great variety of forest and fruit trees. The house has been permitted to fall to decay, but its situation commands a most extensive view of the Straits from end to end, with the bold mountainous shore of Spain in front. Close to the house is a spring of most excellent water, which nourishes a garden abounding with fruit ; and the neighbouring hills are overrun with that beautiful shrub, the large white gum-cistus, which here, as well as in Spain, it is most difficult to eradicate. The Moors have no idea of sylvan scenery; the Basha might otherwise, at a very trifling expense, make this one of the most enchanting places imaginable' for sum mer retirement.

On the morning of the 18th July, we visited some of the Jews' houses. The interior of them is kept particularly clean, by means of continual white-washing, the dazzling brightness of which is very detrimental to the eye-sight. The floors of these residences are often paved with small coloured tiles, like those made in Holland ; and the houses generally consist of four rooms, one story high only, built long and narrow, and so arranged as to inclose a small square yard. The doors are placed in the middle of the interior walls of the quadrangle, and act in the double capacity of doors and windows. At the ends of the rooms are ranged the beds on a raised wooden platform, and in the centre of the floor are mats made of coloured rushes, whereon sit, with their legs tucked up, the inmates of the houses.

The Jews in Tangiers, unlike those in other towns in Barbary, live intermingled with the Moors. They for the most part have the benefit of a regular education, and generally acquire a very competent knowledge of the Spanish langage. Their women are kept under no restraint, and are exceedingly courteous to strangers. They have generally bad figures, but pretty faces ; indeed many of them are very beautiful. Their complexion is high coloured, but their skin very fair. The com plexion of the Moorish women is of too dead a white to be pleasing, though their features are regular. They both paint the edges of their eyelids with black, which sets off the white of the eye to great advantage, and imparts a rich lan guid look to those already too bewitching weapons. Mr. Murray and myself were also looked upon as disciples of Æsculapius, and many was the fair round arm whose throbbing pulsation generally indicated a high state of fever beneath the pressure of our healing hands, whilst the rosy thermometer of the heart seldom failed to exhibit in the crimsoned cheek its sympathy for the im prisoned wrist.

On our return homewards after this visit, we were astonished at hearing a most uncouthly wild noise, and, on our arriving opposite the consul's house, we discovered a group of black men, dancing in the most fantastic manner, drawing up one leg close to the body, and then sinking quite down to the ground. The dance was accompanied by a song, and the music consisted of large double iron castanets, which each man played with his hand, and an earthen jar covered with sheep-skin, which served as a drum. It is im possible to conceive any thing more discordant to the ear than the din with which these negroes were, apparently, so much delighted. The moment they descried us coming up the street, they rushed up, and surrounding us, they danced away with all their might, and at a particular part of the air, they all sank down to the ground, and held out their hands for money.

This application was im mediately complied with, and, for myself, I was glad to get free of them at so cheap a rate ; for, to confess the truth, I felt rather nervous at being thus suddenly encircled by sixteen creatures, who in their appearance and ferocious manners more resembled demons than human beings. I was afterwards informed that it was in honour of the Paschal Feast, which had then just concluded, that these blacks danced about the streets. In the evening we walked down to the beach, to witness a national amusement called the Lab el Barode, or the firing of powder. It is practised as follows. Mounted soldiers, in parties of five or six, gallop up and down a space of about two hundred yards, and fire off their long unwieldy guns, loaded with a large quantity of powder, for the purpose of producing a loud discharge.

Quitting their hold on the bridle, which they totally disregard, and spurring their horses till their sides are streaming with blood, they set up a sort of yell or war-whoop, and placing the butt of the gun on the middle of the chest, they discharge in the air at random, half turning their heads and shutting their eyes, like Gil Bias in his first expedition with the robbers. Sometimes, however, they fire their guns amongst the legs of their neighbours' horses, and it is considered as a great compliment to any stranger who may be looking on, to be fired at as they ride by within a few paces of him. This compliment is frequently conferred with so little discretion, that it is a great chance if the face of the individual so honoured be not blackened with the powder. The game, upon the whole, may be said to present Three Ivlcorr; riiir_.g of. a LtaJj elBaxrjdjg Prm..e_. by :!*^i-."____iaj_j-,C--raiE' iiX-LecS-Ci rather an imposing spectacle ; the elegance of the costume, the animation of the riders, and the dexterity with which they whirl their long guns about their heads after they have fired them off, combine to render it a pleasing sight ; though it is difficult to avoid something like a sensation of disgust at seeing old men, with long venerable beards, vying with each other in so childish a pastime.