War in Bulgaria: a narrative of personal experiences ... With plans and maps

Chapter I

Start for Sofia — Volunteers for the war — Adrianople — Captain Fred Burnaby — An arduous project — In and out of Plevna — Dangers ahead — Tatar Bazardjik — A Turkish mail — Pack-horses and Arabas — Campaigning baggage — Portable effects — Chairs and tables— Turkish Compassionate Fund — Alarming rumours — Horse-dealing — " Imaum " — Domestic arrangements — Pass of Ichtiman — News from the front— Flying Circassians — A sinking ship — General exodus — Thirst for plunder — Defence of Ichtiman — The Sofia plain — The town and garrison — Correspondents — Lady Strangford .....

Chapter II

Major Campbell — Dismal prospects — An insufficient army — The relief of Plevna — Shefket Pacha — Abandonment of Plevna — Advice of Shefket — Arrival of the Russian Guards — Plevna invested — The advance of Gourko — Collapse of Shefket — Gorni Dubnik — Mehemet Ali's army — The Orkhanie Pass — Turkish redoubts — The Russian advance — Kamarli — A cowardly Pacha — A fatal error — The heights above CONTENTS. VI PAGE 11 2G Etropol — Lotikova and Retza — A dangerous retreat — Extraordinary desertions — Valuable materiel — At tack of Gourko — Precarious position — Scattered forces — New battalions — No depots — The late levies — Untrained troops ......

Chapter III

A good purchase — Heavy weights — Dr. Sarell — Cossack raid — An early start — Circassian patrols — Colonel Maitland, R.A. — A distant gun — Pressing onward — Want of condition — Musketry fire — A wounded Pacha — Pushing to the front — Araba Konak — General action — Critical position — Captain James — A scene of slaughter — A welcome meeting — The military situation — The wooded crest — Ill-directed fire — Dangerous Mustaphiz — Courage of Mehemet Ali — A narrow escape — Critical moments — Friends worse than enemies — The gallant English doctor — Position in the wood — Hasty entrenchments — Circassians wounded — Disobedience of orders — The Marshal's quarters — A hot night — Demoralized domestics — Charles, the French artilleryman .

Chapter IV

A safer camp— Improved position — A masked battery — Sudden attack — The Marshal seeks death — Exposed position — Heavy artillery fire — A charmed life — British cheerfulness — Sweep the ridge — A novel plan — Use of petroleum — Too late — A storm of rain — A last opportunity — Turkish delays — A Russian reconnoitring party — Dense fogs — Redjib Pacha — Reorganization — Wasted force — A chance for Plevna — Servian treachery — Sham battalions — CONTENTS. VII PAGE Turkish cavalry — Irregulars — A dangerous path way — Desertion — Severe measures — Fourteen men shot ......... 41

Chapter V

A veracious despatch — Probable consequences — A renowned battalion — Islan Bey — High elevation — Arabs — Protection for the men— A picked force — Disgrace of the Marshal — Shakir Pacha — Called to the telegraph — A change of commanders — Clear weather — Russian earth-works — Approach to Yildiz Tabia— A commanded position — A dead-lock — Try to aid Osman— A last hope — Intense cold — Extreme suffering — Frozen to death — Russian deserters — Colonels Allix and Baker — " Thanks to God and the Padishah " — The Tchuriak Pass — My great anxiety — Fresh vigilance — Captain Burnaby's plan — Wise counsel — Stafford House — Inactivity — Strigli — A dismal scene ........ 54

Chapter VI

The fall of Plevna — Necessary movements in consequence — Concentration on Adrianople — Weakness of the Balkan line — Proposed retreat — Advance of Suleiman — Arrival of new battalions — Camp exposed — A voluntary truce — Shakir Bey — Dr. Gill — Trying duties — Danger looms towards Tchuriak — Watch but cannot guard the pass — Russian preparations — Suleiman at Sofia — A diminished army — Russians and Roumanians from Plevna . . . .69

Chapter VII

Yildiz Tabia — Reconnaissance of Tchuriak — Potop — Vague reports — Arab cavalry — Cossack vedette — CONTENTS. VIII PAGE The Russians on the alert — A skirmish — A new road — Daily patrols — Russians south of the Balkans — A Circassian village — Want of guides — Appeal to Suleiman — Reconnoitre the left — Ominous movements — The coming storm — Christmas on the Balkans — Frozen to death — Circassian bad faith — A diminished army — Warning from Lotikova — Watch and ward ....... 78

Chapter VIII

Dark clouds — The Russian advance — Cavalry skirmish — Bad battalions — My Bosnians and Albanians — The gathering column — A slippery road — An advanced guard — Cowardly fugitives — Authentic intelligence — Repulse of the Cossacks — Omar Bey — News from Tashkessen — An important Khan — Icy slope — Russians and the Geneva Convention — Anxiety of the doctors — Russian camp-fires — Severed communications — Expected attack — Midnight arrangements — A ride in an ambulance — The snowy mountain-path — Necessity of immediate action — Telegraphic communication — A painful descent — On the verge of the precipice — A narrow escape .... 89

Chapter IX

A difficult situation — The Tashkessen position — Dawn of day — A doubtful reinforcement — The rocky hill — Cavalry posts — Advance of the Russian column — A ruse— Long shots— A day gained— Sick and wounded — Mountain guns — An awkward hill — Rocky defences — A Bulgarian village — Anxious watch — Lost cavalry — Distant musketry — Threaten- CONTENTS. IX PAGE ing Cossacks — Meat for the soldiers — A welcome reinforcement — A Russian battery — A good Albanian battalion — Close quarters .... 104

Chapter X

Heavy snow-storms — An aged Mahomedan — A hopeless position — Colonel Baker — Dangerous delay — Circassian cavalry — A false oath — A sinking ship — The Arab horsemen — Russian errors — Crossing the Balkans — Threatened attack — Advance of the Russian cavalry — Ahasty retreat — Wonderful stupidity: — Danger at last — Bulgarian treachery — Preparations for retreat — Overwhelming forces — The Servian advance — A dangerous staff-officer — A night reconnaissance — An important report — A warning for Shakir 116

CHAPTER XL

Break of day — Report from the outposts— Line of battle — A grand scene — Outflanked and overwhelmed by numbers — Disposition to meet the coming storm — Change of position — Strength of Turkish force — Cautious Russian left — Send for reinforcements — A tempting gap — Twelve to one — A demonstration on the Kamarli heights — Infantry engaged — A gleam of hope — Shout for the Czar — Appeal to Allah — Russian mistakes — A timorous commander — Retreat of the Eski Cheir — Hadji Mehemet — Occupy the main position — Russian repulse on the right — Artillery at the Khan — A serious contretemps — Skulkers — A moment of disorder — Different ammunition — Short of cartridges — A slight lull — Fresh appeal for reinforcements — A central position for command — A CONTENTS. X PAGE welcome haze— Cavalry on the plains — A trying despatch — A profound secret — Incessant fighting — Visit the left— Terrible losses— Islan Bey— Dr. Gill, as usual, in front — Anxiety for Colonel Baker — Bosnia and Albania — The last attack — The Turkish cry of victory ....... 130

Chapter XII

A complete Russian repulse — A painful muster — Extraordinary losses — Expenditure of ammunition — An unmolested retreat — Night march after the battle — No chance of halting — Anxious moments for the Kamarli army — Dummy sentinels — A singular incident — The Russian Parlementaire with appeal to surrender — Successful retreat — Arrival at Petric — Lady Strangford's refuge — A sad impediment — Petric — Difficulties with the guns — Dr. Gill to the front — First appearance of the Russians — Colonel Allix's report — An evening skirmish — A message to the Russian Guard — A difficult night march — T urkish wounded— Singular bivouac — Sustenance for the men — Turkish inconsistency . . .158

Chapter XIII

Village of Matchka — An ancient ruin — Disorderly marches — A good position — Otlukoi — Waste of precious moments — A state of doubt — Proposed attack — Its advantages — Reconnaissance instead — Preparations — Difficulties — The situation at daybreak — Awkward position — Feeling for the enemy — A firm resistance — No support — A turning movement — Russian reinforcements — Curious incident — Extreme range — Danger of close formations — Heavy CONTENTS. XI PAGE 199 casualties — Russians outflanked — Fall back in disorder — Covering the retreat — Destruction of the village — A delay — The village in flames — Untrust worthy Mustaphiz — Anxiety for Colonel Allix — Success of the reconnaissance ..... 175

Chapter XIV

The Russians entrench — Sufferings of the soldiers — Thanks of the Sultan — Arrival of Suleiman — Dearth in plenty — Religious prejudices — Loss of the Shipka force — Orders for retreat — Military stores — Usual confusion — The night march — The armistice — Change of plans — Regain former position — Russian carelessness — Surprise of Bulgarians . . .192

Chapter XV

Communication with the Russians — Matchka destroyed — An agreement — Proof of Russian designs — Hostility to England — Russians repudiate the armistice — Preparations for retreat- — Want of experience — No orders — Arrival of despatch — A cold and slippery night — Dr. Atwood missing — A halt — Tatar-Bazardjik — Fuad's division — Suleiman's house — Golden moments — Probability of a march through the Rhodope mountains — Advance of Skobeleff and Radetzky — Lines of retreat — Iskender at Philippopolis .

Chapter XVI

Sabit's division — Movements of other armies — Suleiman's loss of influence — Danger looming — Distrust of Suleiman — The wounded officer — The bridge of CONTENTS. PAGE 210 222 234 Bazardjik — A good administrator — Fighting units — Recruits and old soldiers— Fresh delays — Order of retreat — Osman retires first— Proper order of march

Chapter XVII

Arrival of Suleiman at Beykeui — Sudden alarm — Fuad at Bazardjik — A necessary precaution — Arrangements for the march — The bridge of Bazardjik — Bulgarian murder — Prompt justice — A difficult task — The retreat of Fuad's division — Fires in the town — Spread of the fire — Dangerous preparations — Riding through the flames — The retreat of the cavalry cut off — Burning of the bridge — Perilous position of the stragglers — Cavalry rear-guard ....

Chapter XVIII

The march from Bazardjik — Cavalry engagement — Transport trains — The road to Philippopolis — Dread of water — Serious delays— An alarm — The enemy's cavalry — A change of plans — A fatal halt — False tactics — Suspicion of treachery — Last armies — Serious suspicions — Dearth of food — An outlet for escape — A mountain route — Intense depression

Chapter XIX

Obstinacy of Suleiman — Wasted hours — The main body of the Russians cling to the mountains — The line of Philippopolis — Panic-stricken transport — A difficult passage — Engagement in the distance — A vintner's house — A despatch from Suleiman — Abandonment of Philippopolis — Straggling brigades — Crowds of refugees — Blocked with transport — Absence of CONTENTS. XIII PAGE 24G 202 276 orders — The mountains of the Rhodope — Suleiman at Stanimaka — No news from Fuad — Commence en trenching — A heavy cannonade — Suleiman in despair — The Austrian map — Retreat of Osman — A chance for attack — No help for Fuad and Shakir — Cossacks on the road — Driven into the mountains

Chapter XX

Council by the camp-fire — Plan of retreat — Rear-guard again — Left alone— A critical march — Gross negligence — With the rear-guard — A tedious night-march — Bivouac fires — A sleep in a cottage — A worn-out veteran — A blocked road — An uphill battle — Want of energy — Passive resignation — Disorderly march — A distant enemy — A disconsolate general — Departure of Suleiman — Last orders — A dangerous position—An useful defile — Endless difficulties — A last chance — Worn-out with fatigue . . . .

Chapter XXI

Want of guides — Hopeless depression — Impassable road — Abandonment of guns — A trying night — Want of sleep — Reach the pass — Inefficient cavalry — A slippery path — Safe at last — Mountain paths — Lost baggage — A Mahomedan district — Irregular marches — Scanty fare — A dangerous delay — A magic bag .

Chapter XXII

Danger of starvation — A gipsy girl — The river Arda — A false alarm — A useful horse — A day of rest — A hospitable village — Condign punishment — A lost brigade — The last mountain range — First view of CONTENTS. PAGE the sea— The 5th Brigade— The fate of Fuad— Russians march on Gallipoli — Dearth of news — The lines of Buyuk-Tchekmedji — The Danube boundary — Redif Pacha — E nglish foresight — The plan of Blum Pacha — More delays — Undefended capital — The lines of Boulair — A race for the capital — Useful shelter-trenches — ■ Our strategical position — The action of England — Overwhelming odds . . . 287

Chapter XXIII

The "Selimia" frigate — Lost telegram — An archbishop's house — Bulgarian acolytes — Poisoned by arsenic — The bay of Lagos — A transport in the offing — Beating to windward — Lost effects — Golden moments — Crowded ship — Refuge in prayers — The island of Samothrace — Amicable relations — A census by oranges — A gale of wind — Anchoring in the Dardanelles — Telegraphic despatches . . .301

Chapter XXIV

The English fleet — Its return to Besika — Raw troops — Buried in the mud — An inspection of the fortifications — The position of Boulair — Called to Constantinople — Sailing down the Dardanelles — Council of ministers — The capital may be saved — A Russian trick — Treacherous diplomacy — Captured trains — The Russian advance — Abandonment of the lines — Start for England 314

Chapter XXV

Military and political prophecies — A reorganized army — Short service — Regulars and Reserves — The Mustaphiz — Distrust of Christians — The battalion unit — CONTENTS. XV PAGE Depot battalions— Untrained troops — The strain of war — Patriotism or religion — Absence of fanaticism — Military virtues — Intrigues and jealousies — Countless hosts — Enemies on all sides — Roumania saves Russia — Dearth of military commanders — Russian troops in the Crimea— Military intelligence — Loose order — Superiority in cavalry — Army supply 324

Chapter XXVI

A rough-and-ready system — A lesson for England — Poverty of military strength — Comparative arms — The reserve system — Offence and defence — Russophobists — Our Indian Empire — Preparations for the future — Regulars and Militia — War materiel — Cumbrous system — Faults of the Turkish system — Red-tapeism — Want of foresight — Turkish Staff College — Regimental experience — Grand manœuvres — Financial considerations — Armies and battalions — The French model — England and France — Minor operations of war ....... 338

Chapter XXVII

Use of the spade — Turkish and Russian losses — Working pay — A front attack — Shelter-trenches — Gun-pits — Attack and defence — Turning movements — Columns and lines — Wagons or pack transport — Entrenching tools — Loss of marching power — Toy spades — The English navvy ....... 352

Chapter XXVIII

Larger organizations — Corps-d' armee, divisions, and brigades — A too large unit — British Field Organization CONTENTS. XVI PAGE — A Misnomer — A School of instruction — A regimental system — A severe strain — Organization of the Turkish battalions — Company columns — Am munition supply — Wild fire — Breech-loaders — Expenditure of ammunition ..... 361

Chapter XXIX

Tents and tentes-d' abri — Bivouacs — Comparative health —An easy supply system — Sick and wounded— Infantry packs — The fez as a head-dress — Importance of boots — The Henry-Martini rifle — Cheap cartridges — Range of modern fire-arms — Turkish and Russian cavalry — Mounted riflemen — Russian dragoons — Turkish and Russian artillery — Krupp field-gun — Heavy calibres — Breech-loaders and muzzle-loaders — Massing artillery — Uniform calibre — Auxiliary departments ..... 372 CONCLUSION. The Treaty of Berlin — Aggressive policy of Russia— Eastern Roumelia and Bulgaria — Russian designs on India — Intrigues with Austria — Extension of territory south of the Oxus — Merv and Kizil Arvat — English and Russian prestige in the East — Danger to Indian finance — A bold English policy — Settlement of the Afghan Question — A secure frontier-line — An opening for commerce .....

Chapter I

Start for Sofia — Volunteers for the war — Adrianople — Captain Fred Burnaby — An arduous project — In and out of Plevna — Dangers ahead — Tatar Bazardjik — A Turkish mail — Pack-horses and Arabas — Campaigning baggage — Portable effects — Chairs and tables — Turkish Compassionate Fund — Alarming rumours — Horse-dealing — " Imaum " — Domestic arrangements — Pass of Ichtiman — News from the front — Flying Circassians — A sinking ship — General exodus — Thirst for plunder — Defence of Ichtiman — The Sofia plain — The town and garrison — Correspondents — Lady Strangford. On the morning of the 27th of November all my preparations were completed, and I again found myself at the railway station at Sirkedji-Iskelessi, from which the trains depart for Adrianople. The staff which I took with me comprised Colonel Allix, who had been attached to me throughout the whole of the campaign on the VOL. II.

B Lorn, and Colonel Charles Baker, V.C., another officer of the Imperial Ottoman Gendarmerie. Several officers of the Gendarmerie had volun teered their services in the front to the Turkish Government, but arrangements for their employ ment had not yet been completed with Mehemet Ali Pacha, and they remained at Constantinople, intending to shortly follow in our steps. We slept that night at the American hotel at Adrianople, and again proceeded by train on the following morning, with the idea of remaining for the night at Tatar-Bazardjik. At the Adi'ianople railway station I found my old friend, Captain Fred Burnaby, with his familiar attendant, Radford — a stout soldier of the House hold Cavalry, who had followed his master's fortunes through many of those interesting jour neys which the pen of the latter has so ably recorded.

Captain Burnaby intended to go first to Philip popolis, and then to follow us on to Sofia, in order to see Mehemet Ali. He was bent upon the most arduous project — nothing less than making his way across the Balkans, and passing through the Russian lines to Plevna. A few weeks before, this operation might perhaps have been feasible. CAPTAIN F. BURNABV. When Plevna had been only lightly invested, before its relief by the army sent forward under Shefket, Mr. Gay, the correspondent of the Daily Telegraph, succeeded in escaping with a small escort from the partially-beleaguered posi tion ; but since that time the Russian lines, under the superintendence of Todleben, had been drawn closely round the great entrenched camp of Osman. The attempt seemed to me so utterly impossible that I strongly endeavoured to dis suade my friend from his projected journey.

The chances were that, even if he succeeded in crossing the Balkans, he would be sure to fall in with some parties of Russian cavalry, and, if captured under such equivocal circumstances, he might expect hard treatment, if not serious danger of life, from the Russian commanders ; besides which, the position would be very humiliating. If he were fortunate enough to escape these dangers, and to arrive in the vicinity of Plevna, it seemed perfectly impossible that he could succeed in passing through the closely-drawn Russian lines which watched the position on every side. Even if, by a miracle, he were successful in penetrating them, he would, in all probability, be shot on his advance towards those of the Turks. b Captain Burnaby would not as yet abandon the contemplated enterprise, but he agreed that he would lay the matter fully before Mehemet Ali, and be guided to a great extent by his opinion.

Before leaving Constantinople, we had heard that a sort of mail-coach left Bazardjik every morning, which, passing by way of Ichtiman, reached Sofia in the afternoon ; but on arriving at Bazardjik we found that these journeys were only intermittent. We also learnt that the post-horses employed were so fully engaged that we should have to remain there for one clear day before a carriage could be obtained. This day was spent in arranging our baggage, and in an attempt to purchase horses, which were much required. Until the latter part of the campaign on the Lorn, we had been accustomed to employ araba transport for the carriage of our baggage and household effects ; but this system had proved so uncertain that I had eventually abandoned it, and trusted entirely to pack animals. Pack animals on a campaign have immense advantages.

They can follow you over any country, and, if the horses are good and the loads are light, they will travel almost as fast as the ordinary riding pace of a journey ; but much depends upon the care with which they have been CAMPAIGNING EQUIPAGE. selected, and the attention which has been paid to the pack-saddles, the boxes which are slung on them, and the numerous little details of equipment. The Turkish pack animal is expected to carry a load of about 240 lbs., but with this weight it is impossible to expect quick travelling. From the nomadic habits of Turkish officers and officials, they have succeeded in inventing leathern cases something between a box and a portmanteau, very well suited for pack-travelling ; but I had brought out with me from England boxes constructed upon a system which was even superior.

They consisted of tin cases, which sank into wicker covers. These covers prevented the tin case from being damaged* The boxes themselves were perfectly water-tight and light, and, when taken out of the covers at the end of the journey, the latter inverted formed excellent seats. They formed the perfection of boxes for travelling on pack animals. Pack-horses on a campaign have a further advantage over all transport on wheels. While carts constantly get blocked on the roads by advancing or retiring military trains, the pack animal, if thus getting into the line, can be led out into the fields, and still make his way to the front. Although the winter had now thoroughly set in, and consequently a considerable quantity of rugs, wrappers, and warm clothing was necessary, I reduced my baggage to a lower limit than that which had followed me during the past campaign.

Two pack animals caiTied all my effects, but by clint of experience and careful arrangement I had all that was necessary for the furnishing of the small bell-tent which, in the future, was all that we could hope to obtain. I possessed even the luxuries of a bedstead, a table, and a chair. The former I strongly advise all travellers in wild countries to take with them. The advantage to health of sleeping a little way off the ground is so considerable that the small additional weight which the carriage entails should not be seriously considered. White of Aldershot had supplied me with a most admirable folding-chair, upon what he called the French pattern. In appearance it was really fit for a place in any drawing-room, it folded into small compass quickly and readily, and was so durable that I sit in it as I write these lines, after its passing through two arduous campaigns.

We carried with us a certain number of those stores which were most likely to be useful, and made arrangements that fresh supplies should be forwarded regularly to Sofia. RUMOURS OF RUSSIAN ADVANCE. At Bazardjik we put up at an hotel kept by a civil Frenchman, and managed by a bustling Frenchwoman, who did her best to make us all as comfortable as possible. We met here Colonel Blunt, of the Imperial Ottoman Gendarmerie, busily engaged in the charitable work, under the Turkish Compassionate Society, of aiding the numberless refugees that had been disturbed in their homes north of the Balkans, and who were now pouring down to the south with perfectly vague ideas as to where in the future they would find a refuge. Alarming rumours were being spread as to the recent advance of the Russians north of the Balkans, and it was even declared that they had penetrated the mountains only thirty miles from Bazardjik.

These were, of course, merely vague reports, but they sufficed to startle and alarm the peasantry of the district, and to swell the train of fugitives which was so rapidly pouring southwards. I succeeded in purchasing a little pony which would act as pack-horse, from Colonel Blunt, but although we had heard that Bazardjik was swarm ing with pack animals, which could be purchased at very low prices, we found that our advent had immediately raised their value. As I was anxious to push on to Sofia quickly, and the latest arrivals from that town reported that the purchase of horses could there be more easily effected, we determined to wait. We started the next morning before daybreak in two carriages, which, by constant applications to the Caimakam, I had at last succeeded in securing. Mr. Masters, who was also working in aid of the refugees, shared one of the carriages with Colonel Baker, as he was anxious, in pur suance of his duties, to arrive as soon as possible at Sofia.

I had with me my old Turkoman horse " Imaum." Having followed my fortunes in wilder districts, he had since carried me con stantly throughout the campaign on the Lorn. I also owned a pony which I had secured at Sarna sufflar, and which had proved so useful that I had been loth to part with him at our general sale of horses at Yenizaghra. These two had come on by train with us to Bazardjik, and my servant Reilly rode the one, whilst a cook of non descript nationality, whom I had brought from Constantinople, mounted the pony. We learnt that from the want of post-horses, we should not be able to proceed farther than Ichtiman before night, and that long stage could FLYING CIRCASSIANS. easily be accomplished by the horses and the servants. The road from Bazardjik to Sofia is a fairly good chaussee.

About ten miles from Bazardjik the ascent of the pass commences. The road then runs through the mountains for a considerable distance before descending into a vast plain. The small town of Ichtiman lies in that plain at about five miles from the foot of the hills. We found the road through the pass in a very dila pidated condition, but villagers were working at it, although the repairs that they were making were evidently of a very temporary nature. Our news from the front up to this time was of a desultory and contradictory character. It was hopeless to expect to form any opinion as to the condition of affairs prior to our arrival at Sofia ; but during this day's journey I was struck by scenes of very ominous import. At every few miles we met long trains of arabas containing the wives and families of Circassians, and es corted by large numbers of able-bodied horse men of this nationality.

Much has been said and written about the bravery of the Circassians, and during our ex perience on the Lorn we had certainly come across many very extraordinary instances of individual courage amongst them. As rats are always sup posed to desert a sinking ship, so I had always remarked, that when the fortunes of the day looked critical, the Circassians were invariably to be found making their way towards the rear. I calculated that between Tatar-Bazardjik and Ichtiman, we must have passed at least 1000 Circassian horsemen, nearly all armed with the Government Winchester rifles, and all capable of taking part in the campaign against the Russians. I judged from this exodus that they at least began to think that the campaign was turning adversely to the Turkish arms. The desertion of these men in such large num bers had a most prejudicial effect upon the country generally.

Not only did they give the alarm to all the villages that they passed through, but to gratify the thirst for plunder, which seems to be inherent in their natures, they purposely en deavoured to produce a panic in order to induce the villagers to desert their homes, and thus to give an opportunity of robbing the house hold effects which were left behind in the flight. O I carefully examined the defensive capabilities of the Ichtiman Pass. The best point for defence was that which looked down over the Ichtiman SOFIA plain, but this spur of the Balkans is so low, and so constantly penetrated by village paths, that, like the rest of the higher chain, it forms a very delusive line for the defence of the frontier. On our arrival at Ichtiman we found the place crowded with refugees and Circassians.

For hours the line of arabas passed our little hotel without a moment's cessation. Small military parties conducting wounded to the rear, proved that hostilities were then going on in parts of the Balkan range which were not very remote from this spot. We started again on the following morning on our way to Sofia. After running for a short distance through the plain, the chaussee passes through some low mountains and then descends into the broad rich Sofia valley. Across this valley, which is about twenty miles in width, and to the north, lies the range of the Balkans, whilst south of Sofia a mountain of even greater height rises up above the town. Away to the south, as far as the eye could reach, great blocks of snowy peaks were visible. The road lay under the moun« tains to the left of this Sofia plain.