Sydney and Melbourne; with remarks on the present state and future prospects of New South Wales, and practical advice to emigrants of various classes, etc

Front matter

SYDNEY AND MELBOURNE; WITH REMARKS ON THE PRESENT STATE AND FUTURE PEOSPECTS OI NEW SOUTH WALES, AKD PRACTICAL ADVICE TO EMIGRANTS OE VARIOUS CUSSES: TO WHICH IS ADDED a Samuncg "t ttic -Koutt p.omt 63? In&ia, lEgppt, fcc B5* CHARLES JOHN BAKER, Esq. OF THE INNFR TEMFLTj BARRISTER-AT-LAW. LONDON: SMITH, ELDER AND CO. 65, COENHILL. 1S45. London : Printed by Stewart & Mukrat, Old Bailey. PBEFACE. The Author of the following pages, when contem plating emigration to one of the Australasian colonies, experienced some difficulty in deciding between them ; and he believes that other persons have felt greater hesitation, whilst many have been so per plexed by the rival pretensions of these distant Settlements, and so distrustful of the puffs which have been put forward in savour of each, and so fearful of making a wrong decision, that they have altogether abandoned their intention of emigrating, or have deferred its execution until the opportunity has been lost.

In acting upon the decision to which he himself came in favour of Port Phillip, the Author sought in vain for useful and practical in formation on many subjects connected with the colony, the voyage, and the outfit, the want of which exposed him to great trouble and expense.

Preface

. To relieve the future emigrant from much embar rassment, arising from the same causes, the Author has ventured to publish the result of his experience. This involved the necessity of giving some account of his own doings and journeyings in the colony, which, though it may carry with it some interest to a large circle of friends, yet would not otherwise have been committed to writing, much less to print. He has, however, confined the relation of his own proceedings to circumstances either necessary to give connection to the work, or calculated to impart in formation not contained in other publications. The Author would deeply regret being the means of inducing any individual to emigrate under erro neous impressions gathered from the following pages ; and he, therefore, cautions his readers not to allow their judgments to be influenced, without a careful perusal of the whole work, and weighing one passage with another.

The names of private individuals will be found occasionally mentioned ; but every expression which might possibly give offence, or hurt the feelings of any one, has been carefully avoided ; and for the harmless introduction of particular names, it is hoped that a general apology will be readily accepted. In conclusion, the reader is forewarned that he

PREFACE.

. V must not look here for any general or detailed ac count of New South Wales as a whole ; the Author's residence in the colony was too clouded by domestic misfortune, and too limited, to enable him to enter upon such a work, even had he entertained the wish to do so, or had the field not been already fully occupied. He trusts, however, that the following pages will not be altogether valueless in the prac tical advice they contain to emigrants — in their plain unvarnished description of life in Australia, so far as the Author's own experience has enabled him to give ; and in the remarks and suggestions with which they are interspersed. It is right, however, to add, that a much more complete work would have been published, had the intention to write been originally entertained. Notes might then have been made upon various subjects, which are now too faintly remembered to commit to print with any assured accuracy.

Charles John Baker. 4, Verllam Buildings, Gray's Inn, April, 1845. Note. — Besides directing attention to the Map, it may be well to mention, that the title of " Port Phillip" has been in common use extended from the harbour of that VI

PREFACE.

. name to the whole province of Australia Felix — that Port Phillip, or Australia Felix, is the most southern district of the colony of New South Wales; whilst New South Wales itself is a portion of the Island of Australia, or as it is called by some, from its vast extent, and its containing various other colonies or settlements, the Continent of Australia; and that Australia is the principal member of Australasia, or the Australasian group, winch comprises also . Van Diemen's Land, New Zealand, and the other adjacent Islands. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Thi Y -"age -and Melbourne. Departure from Plymouth — Reasons for Embarking at tbe Port whence the Ship nnallv sails — Cautions on taking a Passage — Advice in the choice of a Cabin and its fitting up — Clothes and other Articles necessary for the Voyage — Cape Otway — Reflections upon nearing our Destination — Summary of Shipboard Life — Arrival at Port Phillip — The Harbour — Steam-boat to Melbourne — Wharfage Dues, and other Charges — Store-houses — Advice as to Lodgings — First Impressions — Wonderful Progress of tbe Settlement — The Buildings — Tbe different classes of Settlers — Cost of Living — House-rent and Building — Not advisable to take out a House — Water and Fire-wood — Suggestions of Improved Modes for supplying them — Medical Advice and Medicine — Meat, Poultry, Fish, Bread, and other articles of consumption — Simplicity of Living — Society — Music ; its Charms — Public Amusements, and Places of Interest to Visit— The Law Court, the Judge and Crown Prosecutor, the Counsel, the Attorneys — Auctions — Streets of Melbourne, their neglected State — Children drowned in the Ruts — The Dust, and a Dust Storm Page CONTENTS.

Chapter II

The Bush. Equestrian Expedition to a Friend's Station in tbe Interior — Liability of Strangers to lose their way in the Bush — Instances — The Tide — A Military Encampment — Attempt to make Soldiers of the Aborigines — Dismantled Hut of a Receiver of Stolen Goods — Bushrangers — Account of the Gallant Capture of three of them, a fourth being killed — Halt for the Night at the Hut of a married Gentleman — The Hostess, a niece of Mungo Park — "An Interior " — Supper and Shakedowns — Description of the Premises — Continuation of the Ride — Visit to two other S'ations — Arrival at Friend's Station — Walk with a Gun aud Spaniel — Provoking Mistake — Sunday in tbe Bush — State of Religion — A Kangaroo Hunt — The Extent, Variety, and Beauty of the Station — The " Mobs " of Cattle — Ride Back to Melbourne — Fording tbe Yarra- Yarra — Australian Horses — Their spare Fare, long Fasts, and great Endurance — Eight Thorough-breds on board the Author's Ship to Port Phillip ; their Treatment — Death of three 37

Chapter III

The Bush. Another "Mount" — Mr. Powlett, a Commissioner of Crown Lands, and the Border Police — Their Head-quarters — Visit to a Sheep Station — Wretched Hut, &c, of the Gentlemen Owners — An Involuntary Gallop — Start with the Commissioner on an Official Tour — Nature of his Appointment — Tbe Police Force attending him — Proceeding to Business — Settlement of Dispute between Two Squatters as to Boundaries — A Sheep Run ; its great Extent — Halt for the Night— Footmen in the Bush — Light Mode of Travelling — General Interchange of Wardrobe — Continuation of CONTENTS. IX Official Tour, and more Business — Visit to a Station occupied by "New Chums'' — Important Boundary Decision — Arrival for the Night at the Hut of a newly Married Pair— A London Lady in the Bush, and Three " Learned Gentlemen of the Bar " — Family Prayers — A long Ride to Geelong— A Narrow Escape from a Bed on the Cold Ground — Geelong — Description of it Return to Melbourne by Steam-boat 74

Chapter IV

The Province of Australia Felix. The Climate — The Scenery — The Timber— The Birds — Pastoral Pursuits of tbe Settlers — No Land bought now for Sheep or Cattle Farming — Reasons — Summary of Modes of Sale and Prices of Land in the principal Colonies — The Squatting System — Petition of Stockholders to Parliament — Comments thereon — Plenty of Room for New Settlers — Superioritv of the Province for the Breed of Cattle — A Purchase of 300 — Rapid Increase in Sheep — Amount of Exported Wool in 1837-39, and 1841 — Price of Sheep — Cattle and Sheep do not always bear a proper Relative Value — Horses — Exportation of them to India — Goats — The Labour Market — Assigned Convicts — Farming and Domestic Servants — Their Wages and Condition, 99

Chapter V

SvnNEr. Voyage to Sydney — An unpleasant " Fix " — Bass Straits — Port Jackson ; its Extent, Capacity, and Beauty — Sydney Hotels and Lodgings — The English aspect of Sydney — Its Population and good order — Tbe Streets and Buildings — The New Government House — The Private Residences of tbe Gentry and Merchants — The Botanical Gardens — Tbe Promenade and Drive — Number of Car- CONTENTS. X riages — The Australian Club — Some of the Troops destined for India are first sent to New South Wales— The 28th — Their Me lancholy Fate — Societv at Sydney — Tbe Law as administered there — The Bar — Heat of Sydney — The Country Round — Excur sion to Paramatta — The " Factory" there, or Establishment for Female Convicts — Literary Morceau on a Handsome Tomb — Ex cursion to Canterbury — The Sugar Works — The number of Medical Men in the Colony — Their great Facility of Passage to and fro 128

Chapter VI

The Aborigines of New South Wales. Some mention of their Habits, Manners, and Customs — Their Collision with the Settlers in the Portland Bay District — Attempt to civilize the Adult Native hopeless — What 's to be done 1 — A Suggestion in reply 147

Chapter VII

General Observations on New South Wales ano its Eligibility as a Colony to which to emigrate. Its great Distress, but not irretrievable Ruin — No Failure in any one of its Essential Elements of Prosperity — General Account of the Origin, Progress, and Extent of the Distress — Well-grounded Expectation of Improvement for the Future — An Instance of the numerous Cases of Individual Ruin — The Consequences to the Colony of such wide-spread Distress — Emigration of Capitalists from this Country temporarily ceased — Scarcity of Money and no Market for Surplus Sock by tbe Influx of Monied Immigrants — Folly of the Colonists in writing home Exaggerated Accounts of the Depression — Straitened means of the Church — Extracts from Letters CONTENTS.

XI of Bishop Broughton to the Society for tbe Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts — Future Prospects ofthe Colony — Sounder System of Trade — New Markets opened for Surplus Stock — Boiling the Sheep and Cattle for Tallow — Salting Beef — Suggestion for a Public Company to undertake it — Why is not a society formed in England to Promote the General Interests of New Souih Wales? — Or why does not the Colony appoint an Agent here for the Pur pose . — The New Legislative Council — The Act of Parliament establishing it — Benefits to be expected from the Deliberations of the Council — The superior Eligibility of New South Wales, as a Colony to which to Emigrate, proved by its Climate — Its Com bination of Youth and Age — Its Internal aud Coasting Commu nications — Its great Intercourse with England and the rest of the World — Ils Admirable Situation — Its Coal — The Cheapness of Living — Its Freedom from any Land-Jobbing Company — Its being no longer a Penal Settlement — The Inoffensive Character of the Aborigines — And the great Facility it affords for an Emigrant to set to work at once — Present Time peculiarly favourable for Emigration to New South Wales — Tbe Capital necessary for Sheep and Cattle Farmers — Particular Articles of Outfit recommended to be taken — Advice upon Packing — Capital necessary for Professional Wen — Advice to Clergymen, and to the Humble Classes: Clerks, Domestic Servants, and Labourers — Caution to All 166

Appendix

. The Route Home from New South Wales via India, Ecypt, Sac. &c. Sydney to Singapore — Wrecks in Torres Straits — Dangers of the Straits — Precautions against them— Java — Singapore.) to Bombay — Country Ships and Lascar Crews — Bombay Hotels — Cost and Modes of Travelling in India — Bombay to Suez— High Charges and Bad Accommodations of the East India Company's Steamboats— Suez to Cairo — "First Come first Served" — Cairo to Alexandria — Alexandria to Malta — Quarantine— Malta to Syracuse, CONTENTS. XII Messina, Naples, Civita Vecchia, Rome, Leghorn, Pisa, Genoa, Marseilles, Avignon, Lyons, Chalons, Paris, Rouen, Havre, and Southampton — Advantages and Disadvantages of the Overland Route — Recommendation of the Route to Single Men — Best Time for starting from New South Wales — Period to be devoted to it — Traveller should not hurry through Egypt — Variety of Continental Routes from Alexandria — Terms and Rates of Passage by tbe Steam-boats of the Peninsular and Oriental Company and the East India Company — Egyptian Transit Company's Charges for Convey ance across the Desert — Summary of Expense for a Year's Travels from New South Wales to England by the Overland Route.. NEW SOUTH WALES > Ac

Chapter I. The Voyage And Melbourne

In the latter end of 1841, I sailed from England in a vessel of about 500 tons, bound to Port Phillip and Sydney, New South Wales. By embarking at Plymouth, the last port at which the ship touched, instead of accompanying her from Gravesend, I avoided, in a great measure, the dangers of the Channel, and the liability to rough and cold weather, as well as other desagrements usually attending the passage " down Channel," in consequence of the great confusion almost inseparable from a start upon so long a voyage, and which are felt the more keenly in proportion to the degree of comfort and happiness of the home that has just been relin quished. Vessels, too, are not unfrequently wind bound in the Channel, during which passengers, by deferring to join the ship, might be enjoying themselves amongst their families and friends, or be ENGAGING A PASSAGE. completing any arrangements that might still be necessary upon so long an exile.

They who aban don old ties in England with regret, will feel the value of the time thus afforded them to pay farewell visits free from the interruptions of buying and packing an outfit. These advantages are cheaply purchased by the trifling expense which a journey to Plymouth entails. Embarkation at the last port frequently proves also far more economical for young unmarried men, as they are often induced to squan der the money, with which they have been supplied for their first arrival in the Colony, in dissipation between Gravesend and the final start. It is well if, in these cases, the ready cash alone goes, as lia bilities are sometimes incurred between the young men themselves, which have subsequently to be dis charged in the Colony, — the first sure step to early ruin. To avoid this evil it will be prudent on the part of their friends to detain them at home as long as possible.

Before a passage is agreed for, it is highly advisable to make diligent inquiries, and obtain all the information possible, relative to the character of the ship for speed and safety, and that of her owners for liberality. If these be satisfactory, it should be stipulated in writing that the vessel shall leave Gravesend on or before a certain day, that fresh meat shall be provided twice a day throughout the voyage, and also, if valued, soft bread (on board ship, FITTING UP A CABIN. biscuit is called bread); that at lunch, dinner, and grog time, a specified liberal quantity of beer and spirits, and of particular wines, shall be allowed ; that the ship shall carry a cow and a good filter j and, last, but not least in importance, an expe rienced surgeon. In the choice of a cabin, a married man should not hesitate upon taking one of the stern poop cabins ; that they are generally con sidered to be the best is proved by the fact of their being dearer than any other ; they are lighter, more airy, and less exposed to the smell of bilge water and other offensive odours than those immediately below them, whilst frequently a whole voyage is passed without any necessity for their dead lights being put in.

They save too the trouble of going up and down the cuddy stairs — a task difficult for ladies in rough weather. If, however, sea sickness is much to be apprehended, a cabin as near midship as possible should be selected, the motion there being considerably less than right aft. In fitting up a cabin, everything should be placed in the most come-at-able position : and in a side cabin, " 'tween decks," trunks containing any articles liable to injury from salt water should be raised a little from the deck, which is frequently flooded by a sea being shipped down the hatchways, or through. one's own or a neighbour's port. The best plan invariably is to employ a carpenter from an outfitting agent, or from one of the slop or furniture shops in B STORES AND the neighbourhood of the docks, much time and trouble being thereby saved, at a trifling expense.

I would recommend the voyager to lay down floor cloth in his cabin, — carpeting is wholly inadmissible, — and to furnish himself with a dust-pan and brush, three or four dusters, and a rough slop cloth or two,* a box of Seidlitz powders, a horn drinking cup, a tea spoon and wineglass, a small stock of lump sugar, a few lemons (for lemonade, or a slice in grog, &c), plenty of good keeping apples, a small quantity of superior brandy, a few pounds of sperm or wax candles for a swinging lamp with a glass shade, some boxes of lucifer matches, a painted water-can, and a quart measure, a filter,f and, for amusement, some * The mention of these household articles will, perhaps, raise a smile, hut it is incredible how rapidly dust and dirt are accumulated on board ship, and to those who study cleanliness, the advice will be found useful.

I have known many married people and single ladies prefer the occasional use of these articles themselves, rather than allow half the day to expire before their cabin was put in order, or rather what tbe steward's mate or hoy, perhaps a slovenly inattentive fellow, wanting in both civility and cleanliness, would call putting in order. In our ship the steward and his mates bad too much to do, to think even of attending to more than a few of the cabins. t The water on board being very bad, so much so as to be wholly undrinkable in its natural state, and frequently even in tea or coffee, and there being no ship's filter on board ! it is difficult to conjecture what I should have done without the small one I had taken the precau tion of buying ; which, being placed in my own cabin, certainly was a daily comfort of great value.

I also took an extra quantity of water, as tbe allowance on board ship is very limited. Two or more passengers should agree to take a cask between them; the charge CLOTHES FOR A VOYAGE. fish lines and hooks, arsenicated soap, and bird skin ning instruments, with such books and entertaining games as he may fancy.* The clothes f required for the voyage are, one or two warm top coats or cloaks, not Mackintosh (as salt water is said to destroy the India-rubber solution), an old and a bettermost cloth coat, six white jean jackets, for wear on Sundays and at dinner in the hot weather, a black or dark blue cachmere, and two or three brown holland or some other cool round jackets, and two blouses, and a light shooting coat, a cap for rain and wind, also a good wearing light one, eight or ten pairs of white trousers, two or three dark ones, and as many of the stoutest brown duck, also two pairs of cloth, a very limited stock of waistcoats (as in the hot weather they are generally discarded), a pair of strong-soled slippers, and a pair or two of old shoes and boots, which, if of patent leather, would be so much the better, as they would then not require to be blacked — a job difficult to get done in some ships, particularly at a convenient time.

Blacking, moreover, is unpleasant to the smell, and injurious in a small cabin. To these should be for freight is trifling, but the comfort is great. Additional water is absolutely necessary where there are young children. * Cards, chess, backgammon, and draughts are the usual games ou board ship, and are played at all hours. t It must be borne in mind that I specify what will suffice for com fort and respectability, and that I write for persons the majority of whom study economy in emigrating to Australia. CAPE OTWAY. added a pair of rather stout shoes or half boots to wear in wet weather. The quantity of personal linen must of course depend upon every individual's own habits; but it may be some guide to him in lay ing in his stock to know that less is required than on land, where the exercise is greater, and where dust and smoke abound.

Ladies should have a propor tionate assortment of warm and light dresses. Low gowns and finery are out of place on board ship — neatness and cleanliness, not smartness of attire, should be aimed at by the fair sex. In all warm climates, flannel is almost universally worn next the skin, and the other under garments are made of calico. Perspiration is thus absorbed, and sudden checks to it avoided. Mildew, iron-moulds, &c, if not absolutely destructive to linen on a long voyage, often sadly deface it, and therefore the oldest clothes should always be first selected for wear, their subse quent fate, whether it consign them to the deep,or to the bottom of a dirty clothes-bag, being a matter of small moment. The first land we sighted in Australia was Cape Otway, on the 12th of February, 1842; and, as may be readily imagined, it was the occasion of no little interest amongst us.

There lay " the land of our adoption," where one and all of us had frequently, in imagination, run through several bright years of happiness and prosperity, some building their castles in the air, and some, no doubt, on a solid rock, but VOYAGE AMUSEMENTS. all pleased with the various creations of their fancy or judgment. There lay the land where all our crotchets and plans for the future — to form which, during the idle hours on board, had been the fond amusement of some dreamy speculatists, and the sub ject of anxious deliberation of others sensible of the responsibilities attaching to them, and of the serious difficulties they would have to meet — were to be practically tested. There was the country about which we had read and heard so much, but of which we knew so little ; the country for which we had bartered, for a time, the land of our fathers, with all its precious ties and old associations, — who could not fail to view it with the liveliest interest ?

The coast was visible at early dawn, and we ran along it all day sufficiently near to see it well with the naked eye ; it was high, well-wooded, and pic turesque, and we were all pleased with our bargain so far. In the night we lay-to for a few hours, and at daybreak entered the harbour of Port Phillip, after a favourable voyage of 103 days, during which nothing of any particular importance occurred ; though what with reading and writing, the novelty of sea-life, shooting, fishing, gymnastics, acting plays, editing and contributing to newspapers, row ing to and visiting other vessels when becalmed,* * One morning no less than twenty-three vessels could be seen from tbe masthead, not one of which was visible the previous evening! The greater number had been becalmed two or three days, and the breeze which brought us up died away as we got amongst them.

BEAUTY OF THE ilEAVEMS. love-scenes, hot and cold friendships, crossing the Line, with all its eccentric fun and merriment, threats of duels on reaching land, and the evening whist and vingt-et-un, an endless variety of small matters " chequered the moving scene," and tended to beguile the idle time with all on board. We experienced two gales, which gave rise to much unnecessary alarm on the part of some of the passengers, and to not a little ill-timed boast ing on the part of others. " The waves of the sea are mighty and rage horribly ; but yet the Lord who dwelleth on high is mightier." That, however, which afforded during the voyage the highest and most continued interest, was the sur passing beauty of the sun's rising and setting, and the contemplation on calm clear nights of those infinite regions in which endless worlds and systems like our own are so wonderfully suspended by the hand of Omnipotence.

In England, where the horizon is broken by a variety of objects, and the atmosphere is comparatively dense, no just idea can be formed of the beauty and sublimity of a sunrise or sunset such as " they that go down to the sea in ships" witness within the tropics. And the same may be said in regard to the heavens at night, for at sea, the horizon being unbroken, a much larger expanse of the starry canopy is within view at the same time, which both enlarges the interest and exalts the ideas. Moreover, as the ship advances HARBOUR OF PORT PHILLIP. 9 south, new stars and constellations appear, whilst those familiar to us gradually sink and become invi sible, until the whole wonderful scene is shifted, and we gaze upon the southern hemisphere in lieu of the northern, viewing in the one no less than in the other those sublime and stupendous evidences which both so abundantly afford of the power and goodness of the Almighty Being who created and upholdeth all things.

The harbour of Port Phillip is very capacious, measuring forty miles in length from the heads to the anchorage in Hobson's Bay, and about the same distance in its extreme width. The distance between the heads at the entrance is about three miles, but the passage is less than a third of that width, in con sequence of a reef of rocks running out about a mile from either head. The first sight which greeted our eyes on entering was the wreck of a North American vessel, which, having been knocked almost to pieces on the reef, finally went down just within the harbour, her mainmast appearing above the water. The navigation, however, is now better known ; and with the aid of one of the pilots attached to the port, and a good chart,* no danger need be apprehended. Ships of 1 50 tons and upwards anchor off Williams Town in Hobson's Bay, and lie * A chart of Bass' Straits, and of some of the neighbouring ports, including that of Port Phillip, was published by the Admiralty at the close of 1844.

B STORING WAREHOUSES. about two or three miles from that part of the shore which is nearest to Melbourne ; the Yarra Yarra river, on which the capital of Australia Felix is built, not being of sufficient depth to allow vessels of such tonnage to navigate it. An excellent iron steam-boat plied two or three times daily between Williams Town, the shipping, and Melbourne, and on a signal being made, came alongside any vessel for a passenger or goods. The charges were three shillings for the former and ten shillings a ton measurement for the latter. There are also many licensed watermen's boats for hire, resembling those used for whaling, and not only fast, but thoroughly seaworthy. The ships dis charge their cargo through the medium of lighters, the charge for which was five shillings per ton measurement.

A small wharfage due of sixpence is demanded upon every package not coming under the denomination of personal luggage, and this being paid, the emigrant is free to take himself and baggage wherever he pleases. That many, on first landing, must be sorely puzzled to take care of their own effects, is proved by the existence of a great number of large warehouses, on some of which — iu letters that reduce to utter insignificance, those proclaiming the "dealer in marine stores," who, in this country, is obliged by Act of Parliament to write up his calling in letters of six inches length at least — are MELBOURNE. painted in huge capitals " goods stored." The charge for depositing any baggage, or goods, is about Is. 3d. a week per ton measurement ; but the store keeper is open to a bargain, according to the quantity stored, and the time for which they are to be kept.

Many ofthe most respectable merchants in Melbourne thus turn their warehouses to account, and afford great convenience to newly-arrived emigrants. A single man should take up his quarters at a hotel, unless suitable lodgings, which are rare, can be pro cured; but in his choice of either, he should be guided by the advice of some person whose knowledge of the place will save him from putting up under a disreputable or expensive roof. The married man should take a house before he finally quits the ship, but for no longer a time than a month, as a better knowledge of his new residence will very likely, for some reason or other, make a change desirable. Being now fairly in Melbourne, let us look round and see what sort of place it is, and whether it answers our expectations. At first sight, a feeling of dissatisfaction, perhaps of disappointment, may pre vail.