Oriental and Western Siberia; a narrative of seven years' explorations and adventures in Siberia, Mongolia, the Kirghis Steppes, Chinese Tartary, and part of Central Asia ... With a map and numerous illustrations

Front matter

. ORIENTAL AND WESTERN SIBERIA: A NARRATIVE OF Bikii §.ar_' dfoplorafions anb %)Um& IN SIBERIA, MONGOLIA, THE KIRGHIS STEPPES, CHINESE TARTARY, AND PART OF CENTRAL ASIA. BY THOMAS WITLAM ATKINSON. WITH A MAP AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON: HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN, 13 GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1858. The Riffht of Translation is reserved. LONDON: Printed by G. Barclay, Castle St. Leicester Sq. TO f^ts imperial iftaj.!. tg, aiwaniret tfje S.eroirti, EMPEROR OF ALL THE RUSSIAS, etc. etc. THIS VOLUME, EY SPECIAL PERMISSION, IS GRATEFULLY DEDICATED r.v HIS IMPERIAL MAJESTY'S MOST HUMBLE AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. When the journey narrated in the following pages was undertaken, it was not with the intention of publishing either a book of Travels, or any other work. My sole object was, to sketch the scenery of Siberia — scarcely at all known to Europeans. While thus employed, I passed out of the Emperor of Russia's Asiatic dominions ; having been provided with an especial passport by command of His Imperial Majesty, Nicholas the First, which enabled me to cross the frontier, as well as to re-enter the Empire at any other points to which my rambles might lead me. I have brought back faithful representations of the scenery, without taking any artistic liberties ; preferring Nature in her own attractions, to snatching a grace within the reach of Art. Mine has been a tolerably wide field, extending from Kokhan on the west to the eastern end of the Baikal, and as far south as the Chinese town of Tchin-si ; including that immense chain Syan-shan, never before seen by any

PREFACE.

. VI European ; as well as a large portion of the western part of the Gobi, over which Genghiz Khan marched his wild hordes toward the west — scenes on which no pencil has previously been employed — comprising a distance traversed, of about 32,000 versts in carriages, 7100 in boats, and 20,300 on horseback,— in all, 59,400 versts (about 39,500 miles), in the course of seven years. Neither the old Venetian nor the Jesuit priests could have visited these regions — their travels having been far to the south ; nor am I aware that they brought back any pictorial representations of the scenes through which they wandered. Even the recent travellers, Hue and Gabet, who visited " the land of grass," (the plains to the south of the great Desert of Gobi,) did not penetrate into the country of the Kalkas ; and the illustrations to their works were evidently fabricated in Paris.

Mine is a simple narrative of facts, taken from journals kept with scrupulous care during the whole journey, often under the influence of great fatigue, and amid the pressure of numerous difficulties. I suffered much both from hunger and thirst, have run many risks, and on several occasions have been placed in most critical situations with the tribes of Central Asia — more particularly when among the con victs escaped from the Chinese penal settlements, — des perate characters who hold the lives of men cheap. I have several times looked upon what appeared inevitable death and have had a fair allowance of hair-breadth escapes when riding and sketching on the brinks of precipices with a per pendicular depth of 1500 feet below me. With these accompaniments, I traversed much of the

PREFACE.

. VII hitherto unexplored regions of Central Asia, and produced 560 sketches of the scenery, executed with the moist colours made by Winsor and Newton, — invaluable to an artist employed under such circumstances. I have used them on the sandy plains of Central Asia, in a temperature of 50° Reaumur (144° Fahrenheit); and in Siberia have had them frozen as solid as a mass of iron, when the temperature was 43° Reaumur of frost, 11° below the point where the mercury became solid, when I could make it into balls in my bullet-moulds. Some of my largest works have been painted with colours that have stood these severe tests; and for depth and purity of tone, have not been surpassed by those I have had fresh from the manufactory. With cake colours, all my efforts would have been useless. I am deeply indebted to the late Emperor of Russia ; for without his passport I should have been stopped at every government, and insurmountable difficulties would have been thrown in my way.

This slip of paper proved a talis man wherever* presented in his dominions, and swept down every obstacle raised to bar my progress. I have also to thank Her Imperial Highness the Grand Duchess Helen for* many acts of kindness and condescension. Nor have I forgotten my obligations to the Baroness Ralrden and Miss Euler, — a worthy descendant of the mathematician. To Count Nesselrode I offer my thanks for many obliging acts. From Mr. Buchanan, our late Minister in Denmark, I received much assistance in procuring the Emperor's per mission, for which I take this opportunity of recording my gratitude. Prince Gertchikoff, the Governor General of TREFACE. Western Siberia, rendered me most essential service by forwarding my sketching materials to far-distant Cossack posts — for* which I return my acknowledgments.

I will not attempt to particularize the mining officers of the Altai, from all of whom I received assistance and attention. My thanks are equally due to the peasants, from marry of whom I received a crust of black bread when sorely pressed by hunger* — to my Cossack companions, who freely shared my toils and dangers — to the brave Kalmucks, who led me through difficult mountain regions, and suffered both hunger and thirst in my service, with the prospect of certain captivity in case of our being overpowered. To General Mouravieff, the Governor- General of Eastern Siberia, I wish also to express my cordial acknowledgments. Lie is one of the most faithful servants of his Imperial Majesty, and has done much, and would do more, for the good of his country, were he permitted. My other friends in Eastern Siberia I remember with the kindest feelings, and sincerely hope that I have not been forgotten by them.

CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. ST. PETERSBURG TO EKATERINEBURG ..... 1 II. IRON MINES 13 III. EXCURSIONS ON THE TCHOUSSOAVAIA ..... 25 IV. ASCENT OF THE KATCHKANAR ...... 46 V. MINERAL TREASURES OF THE OURAL . . . . .64 * VI. PRECIOUS STONES OF SIBERIA . . . . . .91 VII. IRON AND GOLD AVORKS . . . . . . .110 VIH. ENGLISHMEN IN THE OURAL . . . . ' . . 129 IX. ADVENTURES AMONG THE MOUNTAINS .... 141 X. BORDER LANDS OF ASIATIC RUSSIA 156 XI. APPROACH TO THE ALTAI RANGE . . . . .169 XII. ASCENT OF THE ALTAI . . . . . . .187 • XIII. FRONTIER OF THE CHINESE EMPIRE 214 XIV. DESCENT OF THE 1RTISCH ....... 227 XV. THE KIRGHIS STEPPE ....... 246 XATC. AMONG THE KIRGHIS ....... 262 XVH. ADVENTURES IN THE STEPPE ...... 280 XVIII. RAMBLES AMONG THE KIRGHIS 307 XIX. BARNAOUL ......... 325 XX. SPORTING ADVENTURES 341 XXI.

ON THE LAKES OF THE ALTAI . . . • • 360 XXII. THE CHAINS OF THE ALTAI 377 XXIII. ASCENT OF THE BIELOUKA 404 XXIV. THE COUNTRY OF THE KALKAS — ANCIENT MONGOLIA . . 441 XXV. PLAINS OF MONGOLIA 455 XXVI. CHINESE TARTART 481 XXVII. TCHIN-SI AND SYAN-SHAN 535 XXVIII. THE SULTANS OF THE STEPPE 556 XXIX. SAIAN MOUNTAINS — ORIENTAL SIBERIA . . . .580 LITHOGRAPH ILLUSTRATIONS. NO. PAGE 1. Sultan Souk and Family . . . To face Title 2. Arkat Mountains and Salt Lakes, Kirghis Steppe • . . 279 3. Night Attack on the Aoul of Mahomed .... 297 4. A Group of Kirghis with two Brides . . . .311 5. Altin-Kool, Altai Mountains, Western Siberia . . . 363 6. A Lake near the source of the River Tschugash, Altai Mountains 395 7. Zabata-Nor, Mongolia ...... 443 8. Bouriat Temple and Lake Ikeougoun, Mongolia . .445 9.

Cavern on the Lake Oulunjour, Mongolia . " . . 469 10. A large Barrow in a valley in the Tarbagatai, Chinese Tartary . 558 11. Sultan Beck and Family ..... 563 12. River Terric-sou, Kara-tou, and Kirghis Steppe . . 564 13. Tchim-Boulac, Alatou Mountains, Chinese Tartary . .570 14. Falls on the River Kopal, Chinese Tartary . . . 575 15. Tamchi-Boulac, or Dropping Spring, Chinese Tartary . . 577 16. Ghilder-a-ghar-a-ghi, Actou Mountains, Chinese Tartary . 579 17. River Djam-a-louk, Oriental Siberia .... 582 18. Volcanic Crater, Saian Mountains, Mongolia . . . 586 19. A Natural Arch on Nouk-a-daban, Oriental Siberia . . 593 20. Baikal, Oriental Siberia ..... WOOD ENGRAVINGS. NO. PAGE 1. Launching a Barque on the River Tchoussowaia . . 15 2. Jasper and Limestone . . . . .18 3. Entrance to a Cavern . . . . . .23 4.

The Robbers, or Four Brothers . . . .31 5. Curious Rocks on the Tchoussowaia . t . .34 6. Rocky Tomb . ...... 36 7. Demidoff's Birthplace ...... 42 8. Valley ofthe Toura . . . . . .51 9. Summit of the Katehkanar . . . . .60 10. Girls playing at Skakiet . . . . .66 11. Tagilsk ........ 78 12. Tea-Party on the Summit of Bielaya Gora . . .86 13. Leaning Tower, Neviansk . . . . .93 14. Forest Ride by Moonlight . . . . .192 15. Swimming a deep Stream . . . . .215 16. Barques on the Irtisch . . . . . .241 17. Discussing the Journey to Nor-Zaisan .... 248 18. Group of Kirghis, with Koumis Bottle and Bowl . . 281 19. A Group of Mahomed's Kirghis . .... 306 20. Kalmuck Resting ...... 373 21. Kalmuck Sacrifice ...... 383 22. Kalmuck Priest . . . • • • .384 23. Yepta . . . • • • • • 408 24. San-ghin-dalai .... • • 445 25.

Cavern on the River Tess . . • • .457 26. Bearcoote and Deer ..■••■ 493 27. Our Night Encampment ..... 523 28. View looking down upon the Lake .... 540 29. Sultan Iamantuck and Family . • • • .559 30. Sultan Boulama . • • * * ' 31. Sultan Alie Iholdi . • • • ■ ■ 567 '32. Singular Formation . iflap to accompany As ATKIATSOlfS TRAY ELS in SIBERIA, MONGOLIA, CHINESE TARTARY, .mil port <•(' CENTRAL ASIA . ■ | 1. ■Mill.. I | ' I J ' | J J I i i i . I . i ■ . I I 1 i-i l ' i \ \ \ * ~T ORIENTAL AND WESTERN SIBERIA, AND CHINESE TARTARY.

Chapter I. St

PETERSBURG TO EKATERINEBURG. Soon after my arrival in St. Petersburg I made tlie acquaintance of the late Admiral Rickardt, and from him gathered much information about Siberia, or, rather, the route through the country to Kamtschatka — the southern regions being unknown to him. He had only travelled by the great post-road from St. Petersburg to Ochotsk, — a very monotonous journey. The road never approaches the Altai, being usually carried. along the great Siberian plain at a distance of five or six hundred versts from this mountain-chain. I was told that the authorities would only give a passport to travel from one town to another, and that this would have to be changed at every Government town ; causing great trouble, expense, and delay. After due consideration I determined to apply to the Emperor for especial permission to travel and sketch, feeling certain that if this were granted, there would be no difficulties : if refused, I would not make the attempt.

I wrote a letter, which was most kindly laid before His Imperial Majesty by Mr. B TABLEAUX VIVANTS. 2 Buchanan, Charge d' Affaires ; and in three days received an answer from Count Nesselrode, informing me that the Emperor had granted my request, and that orders had been issued to the Minister of the Interior, and other authorities, to prepare for me all the necessary papei*s. Having received these, I commenced making inquiries about the country. The Minister of Finance very kindly put me in communica tion with a mining-engineer officer, who had been engaged in the Altai, aud from him I collected much valuable information relative to my route. I found the road between St. Petersburg and Moscow very bad ; the great traffic between the two capitals having cut it into such deep holes that the sledge went down every few minutes with a fearful shock.

This I considered a good breaking in for the long journey before me. On the evening of the third day I reached Moscow in a great snow-storm, which rendered my entry into the ancient city anything but pleasant. I was provided with letters to several Russian families, who did everything they could to render my short stay agreeable. About a week after my arrival, there was a great festival to commemorate the anniversary of the founding of Moscow, seven hundred years ago. Through the kindness of some friends I was enabled to join in these festivities. But I shall not attempt to describe either dinners or balls : suffice it to say, they were on a grand scale. What interested me most was a series oi tableaux vivants given in the "Nobility's Hall" (Assembly Rooms) before His Imperial Majesty and most of the Court.

Some of these were highly interesting, as they were representations of life seven centuries back. Old furniture, armour, aud plate, were brought from the Krem lin ; these and the antique dresses gave a most faithful character to the pictures. During the evening a tableau was given representing the four elements, Air, Earth, Fire, and Water, which were personated by four beautiful young THE VASHOCK. 3 ladies, whose appearance called forth immense applause. Without dropping the curtain, this picture was changed by suddenly drawing off the dresses ; which was done by some one beneath the stage. One young lady (whether of earth or heaven seemed difficult to determine) was kneeling on one knee on a piece of rock, and when the signal was given, was jerked from her place and turned feet upwards on the floor, — a position for which she was evidently not prepared.

Many of the spectators began to laugh, but this was very properly hushed by His Imperial Majesty in an instant ; in the next, the lady was divested of her first costume, and again took her place on the rock, with the additional charm of a deep blush spreading over her face. Another very interesting event took place during my stay : this was the jubilee given to Professor Fischer. I had previously made his acquaintance, and he was much interested in my journey. I found afterwards, on reaching the Altai, that he had written to his friend, Dr. Gabler, recommending me to his peculiar care. I remained at Moscow fifteen days, most of which were stormy, with heavy falls of snow and violent winds. An order from the Minister in St. Petersburg procured me a postilion from the Post-office in Moscow to travel with me to Ekaterineburg ; and on the 6th of March we started.

There was now no time to spare ; already the roads were reported bad, and I had a journey of 1707 versts before me. My only companion in the vashock was a large deer-hound, — the postilion sat with the driver. It is, perhaps, necessary to say that a vashock is a long, box-like machine, placed on a sledge ; in fact, a sort of half-grown omnibus. When the roads are worn into " oukhabas" (deep holes), this convey ance is too long, for the horses drag it over the ridges, going at a good speed, and jerk it beyond the centre ; then down it goes with a tremendous thump, which sends the head of the unfortunate inmate against the top with terrible PRINCE 0UR0US0FF. 4 force. In fact, after the second day's travelling, I came to the conclusion that my head was well-nigh bullet-proof. We passed through Vladimir early in the morning ; when I saw the Cathedral with its five domes, which has a very imposing appearance.

This is a small town, and has, I believe, fourteen churches, with several other public buildings. From one point of the road, there was a pretty view of the place witli its numerous domes and towers, which gave it a very picturesque appearance. With the thermometer standing at 12° R. of frost, this was not the time to stop sketching any town, so on we galloped through snow and storm, and reached Nijne-Novgorod at nine o'clock the following morning. Having a letter to the Governor, Prince Ourousoff, I determined to stay a few hours aud deliver it, also to stroll through this ancient city, held in melancholy remembrance as the one where Ivan Vassilievitch the Cruel committed some of his most bar barous atrocities. Entering the lower town, I was taken to a sort of inn on the banks of the Volga ; but as my stay was to be short, it mattered little what accommodation it afforded.

All those travellers who expect to find a Russian host very attentive to his guests, will be disappointed. My postilion led the way up-stairs, and showed me a whole flat of pens or private boxes in a filthy condition, and with very little furniture ; these were formed by dividing large rooms with inch-and-a-half boai*ds. My luggage was brought up stairs, as it could not be left with safety in the sledge. After a wash my man succeeded in getting (with some difficulty) a breakfast. Having* despatched this meal I got into a sledge and paid my visit to the Governor, who received me with much kindness, and insisted on my dinino* with him. I urged the necessity of my pushing forward without delay, as an excuse; but this was overruled he assuring me that the present intense cold would prevent the roads being destroyed, and that, as I was proceeding to a A RUSSIAN HOTEL. 5 colder clime, I need be under no apprehension on that score.

Being free until four o'clock, I sallied forth to stroll through the upper town, and visited some of the churches, of which there are a great number; several are very ancient and possess considerable architectural merit. There is one that stands on the banks of the Volga — a very curious composition, which I was anxious to transfer to my sketch book, but this was impossible. A little before the dinner hour, I again left my lodging, got into a sledge, and drove to the upper town. The wind had now increased to a gale, and it was with difficulty the man made his horse face the clouds of snow. On reaching my point of observation, I found a party of eight assembled, and, what was still more agreeable to me, the Princess Ourousoff spoke excellent English. Having spent a few pleasant hours, I returned to my dirty room, intending to get, if possible, a good night's rest, and start at daylight.

At this place they provided neither bed, mattrass, pillows, nor sheets ; a bed stead there was with a boarded bottom, and on it I rolled myself up in my fur, and prepared for sleep. I had no sooner done this than I discovered that I had neighbours on one side of me, and by their voices I found they were of different sexes. At first they appeared to be in a very angry mood, as I supposed from the tone of their voices, which induced me to wish them on the other side of the Styx. Either I was dreadfully tired, or the chatterers became quiet, for I remember no more until roused up just at daylight ; on looking out I saw it was a clear, cold, and calm morning — a good prospect for our onward progress. Our road was along the ice nearly all the way to Kazan, a distance of about 380 versts. Having reached the track, the four horses were turned towards the east, and away we went at a slashing pace.

Temporary, or winter stations, are made on the banks of the river ; AN ACCIDENT. 6 I found them wretched and dirty, often mere hovels, into which it was loathsome to enter. After leaving Nov gorod, the south bank of the Volga is in many places very abrupt, and rises 150 to 200 feet above the stream. In summer, when the trees are clothed in their varied foliage, and reflected on the broad bosom of the river, many of these scenes will be exceedingly beautiful. Station after station was passed, and still our course was onward. An exhilarating gallop brought us to one of these stations about two o'clock, where we were informed that at fifteen versts distant we must leave the river, as the ice was un safe for several versts beyond this point. In rather less than an hour we reached the place, when the yemstchick (driver) drove up the steep bank in an oblique direction.

About thirty or forty feet below the summit, the horses came to a dead stand, when our united efforts could not get us out of the difficulty. After lifting and pulling for nearly an hour without gaining a yard, the shades of evening fast coming on, I began to suspect that our only hope was to send to the next station, ten versts distant, and get other horses. While the man was repairing some broken traces, the post ilion and myself ascended to the top of the bank to look out for assistance, when we discovered a long caravan of sledges at a considerable distance, coming towards us ; this relieved our anxiety, and just at dusk they came up, when three of their horses were unyoked, and dragged us to the summit. Presently we again started forward, driving over a flat table-land to another part of the river.

Having gone some five or six versts I was roused up by a great shout from the two men, when we discovered that we were on the brink of a steep bank, — almost instantly the hoi-ses lost all power over the machine, and down we went with fearful speed. Suddenly a great crash occurred, every square of glass was broken, out leaped my dog much alarmed, while I was driven with such force against the side ofthe carriage GENERAL BARATINSKY. 7 that I thought my shoulder was dislocated ; the door was wrenched open by the concussion, and I sprang out into the snow, which I found very deep. On looking round I could not see either of the men ; but forcing my way to the other side of the vashock, discovered a pair of legs sticking out of the snow : getting hold of these, and tugging away for a moment, out floundered the postilion.

We now looked for the driver, and discovered him lying among his horses in the deep drift ; we dragged him out, and found him un hurt. Getting up the horses was a more laborious work ; however, in due time they were extricated, but the vehicle was a wreck. Fortunately we had a good stock of rope, and the two men set about repairing damages. At last the conveyance was pronounced strong enough to take us to the station. I sat down, when we were dragged slowly along in a most shattered condition, till we reached our des tination, where I was detained four hours, while the vashock was repaired. During the time I examined into the state of affairs inside, when, to my horror, I discovered that my two mountain barometers were broken, and other things dam aged. A bad beginning the first day on the Volga !

The accident had been caused by the driver going out of the track, and to avoid the stumps of some trees, had pulled his horses sharp round, over the brink of the bank which was hidden by deep snow. After this affair, my journey along the river was smooth and agreeable, and we reached Kazan at half-past four o'clock on the morning of the second day since leaving Novgorod. Having letters to the Governor, General Baratinsky, and his lady, I presented them, and was very kindly received. I met several of the professors of the University, and in their company two days were most advantageously spent. The Kremlin at Kazan stands on high ground commanding the valley towards the Volga ; and has a very picturesque effect when approached from the river. In 1844 nearly one- MALM0U1SH. half of the town was burned down, and even at this time many parts have a most desolate and wretched appearance.

Several of the churches had been seriously damaged, and it was really distressing to see so many blackened skeletons of fine buildings, and heaps of ruins iu other places. I was advised to delay my journey as little as possible, as a few stages farther I should find no snow ; therefore at five o'clock in the afternoon of the second day I was again en route, and soon met with symptoms of a rapid thaw. Indeed so bad was the road, that I was only able to travel three stations during the night. At seven o'clock in the morning I had made but sixty-nine versts in fourteen hours. While taking my breakfast it began to rain, and continued for several hours. The postilion ordered six horses to drag us over the country ; I soon found we had left the road, and it was a hunt for a track the whole time.

Snow was still lying in the woods, and wherever this was found, our pace was increased to a gallop. Near the end of the second station, I had another break-down ! Ropes were again resorted to, and another hour was spent in tying up the broken limbs of the machine. While taking my tea, I was joined by a traveller, a Russian officer, who, after speaking to the postilion, addressed me in German on the insecurity of my sledge. Fie remained with me for more than an hour, then left promising to dine with me at the next station where he was going ; but befox*e leaving gave some instructions to my man. Again we had six horses, which took us off at a rattling pace. I began to feel great doubt as to our reaching Mal mouish, the sledge was so bad : there, I felt certain, it must be left. However, at last we entered the town, when the man drove into a large yard, belonging to a very good house, which I was certain was not the station.

On stepping out of the vashock, the Russian officer and an old gentleman met me, who, I was told, was the father of my RUSSIAN HOSPITALITY. 9 new friend. They led me into the house, and shortly a good dinner was placed before the officer and myself — the family having dined before his arrival. I spent several hours with these kind people ; my baggage was taken out of the vashock and packed into a kebitka, and nowhere at this place would they allow me to pay for anything I needed. They urged me to stay a day or two, but this was impossible ; I remained until midnight, when, after express ing my obligations, I was once more galloping along the road, now hard frozen. Fortunately the weather remained cold, and a heavy fall of snow, which continued for two days, rendered the road good again, though it prevented me seeing the country.

I was now on the western slopes of the Oural and very anxious to see the chain, but in this I was disappointed ; and entered Perm at half-past two o'clock on the third morning after leaving Malmouish, without having seen a mountain. From hence our road was over the Oural, and in twenty hours we should cross the boundary and be in Asia. We only remained here to change horses, as the master at the station said it was doubtful if we could reach Ekaterineburg in a sledge. About half-past three o'clock in the morning we left Perm, in a drenching rain and as dark as Erebus. How the yemstchick found his way, was to me a mystery ; but he did so, and at a most rapid speed. We had four horses, and travelled the twenty -five versts in an hour and a half. The people at this station said I must leave the sledge and go on in a post-carriage on wheels ; however, after a long discussion between my postilion and the men, — besides a taste of a heavy whip to give weight to his argument, — six horses were at last harnessed to the sledge, and we started, the rain still pouring down, and every hour making the road worse ; indeed, in many places, it was with great difficulty that the horses could drag us along.

About mid- C0UNG0UR THIEVES. 10 day we reached Coungour, celebrated for its tanneries and its thieves. Of the attainments of the latter in their par ticular vocation they gave me a specimen. A considerable number of men were assembled around the sledge in which I sat, but my deer-hound leaped out, and the postilion gave him some water. The horses were quickly put in. Observing that the dog evidently wished to run, I let him do so, and we started off; after going about two hundred yards I looked for him, but could see him nowhere. In a moment the horses were stopped and turned back towards the station — still no dog was visible. Several groups of men were standing about, but they all swore, in answer to the post ilion's questions, that they had not even seen the animal. At this moment I perceived two men walking off towards the back of some old buildings.