Oriental and western Siberia: a narrative of seven years' explorations and adventures in Siberia, Mongolia, the Kirghis steppes, Chinese Tartary, and part of Central Asia

Front matter

LIBRARY

Theological Seminary,

PRINCETON, N. J.

Preface

European ; as well as a large portion of the western part of the Gobi, over which Genghiz Khan marched his wild hordes toward the west — scenes on which no pencil has previously been employed— comprising a distance traversed, of about 32,000 versts in carriages, 7100 in boats, and 20,300 on horseback, — in all, 59,400 versts (about 39,500 miles), in the course of seven years. Neither the old Venetian nor the Jesuit priests could have visited these regions — their travels having been far to the south ; nor am I aware that they brought back any pictorial representations of the scenes through which they wandered. Even the recent travellers, Hue and Gabet, who visited “ the land of grass,” (the plains to the south of the great Desert of Gobi,) did not penetrate into the country of the Kalkas ; and the illustrations to their works were evidently fabricated in Paris.

Mine is a simple narrative of facts, taken from journals kept with scrupulous care during the whole journey, often under the influence of great fatigue, and amid the pressure of numerous difficulties. I suffered much both from hunger and thirst, have run many risks, and on several occasions have been placed in most critical situations with the tribes of Central Asia — more particularly when among the convicts escaped from the Chinese penal settlements, — desperate characters who hold the lives of men cheap. I have several times looked upon what appeared inevitable death, and have had a fair allowance of hair-breadth escapes when riding and sketching on the brinks of precipices with a perpendicular depth of 1500 feet below me.

With these accompaniments, I traversed much of the

PREFACE.

Vll hitherto unexplored regions of Central Asia, and produced 560 sketches of the scenery, executed with the moist colours made by Winsor and Newton, — invaluable to an artist employed under such circumstances. I have used them on the sandy plains of Central Asia, in a temperature of 50° Reaumur (144° Fahrenheit); and in Siberia have had them frozen as solid as a mass of iron, when the temperature was 43° Reaumur of frost, 11° below the point where the mercury became solid, when I could make it into balls in my bullet-moulds. Some of my largest works have been painted with colours that have stood these severe tests; and for depth and purity of tone, have not been surpassed by those I have had fresh from the manufactory. With cake colours, all my efforts would have been useless.

I am deeply indebted to the late Emperor of Russia ; for without his passport I should have been stopped at every government, and insurmountable difficulties would have been thrown in my way. This slip of paper proved a talisman wherever presented in his dominions, and swept down every obstacle raised to bar my progress. I have also to thank Her Imperial Highness the Grand Duchess Helen for many acts of kindness and condescension. Nor have I forgotten my obligations to the Baroness Rahden and Miss Euler, — a worthy descendant of the mathematician. To Count Nesselrode I offer my thanks for many obliging acts. From Mr. Buchanan, our late Minister in Denmark, I received much assistance in procuring the Emperor’s permission, for which I take this opportunity of recording my gratitude. Prince Gertchikoff, the Governor-General of

Vlll

PREFACE.

Western Siberia, rendered me most essential service by forwarding my sketching materials to far-distant Cossack posts — for which I return my acknowledgments. I will not attempt to particularize the mining officers of the Altai, from all of whom I received assistance and attention. My thanks are equally due to the peasants, from many of whom I received a crust of black bread when sorely pressed by hunger — -to my Cossack companions, who freely shared my toils and dangers -—to the brave Kalmucks, who led me through difficult mountain regions, and suffered both hunger and thirst in my service, with the prospect of certain captivity in case of our being overpowered. To General Mouravieff, the Governor- General of Eastern Siberia, I wish also to express my cordial acknowledgments. He is one of the most faithful servants of his Imperial Majesty, and has done much, and would do more, for the good of his country, were he permitted. My other friends in Eastern Siberia I remember with the kindest feelings, and sincerely hope that I have not been forgotten by them.

Contents

GHAP.

I. ST. PETERSBURG TO EKATERINEBURG .

II. IRON MINES

Chapter I

ST. PETERSBURG TO EKATERINEBURG.

Soon after my arrival in St. Petersburg I made the acquaintance of the late Admiral Rickardt, and from him gathered much information about Siberia, or, rather, the route through the country to Kamtschatka — the southern regions being unknown to him. He had only travelled by the great post-road from St. Petersburg to Ochotsk, — a very monotonous journey. The road never approaches the Altai, being usually carried along the great Siberian plain at a distance of five or six hundred versts from this mountain-chain. I was told that the authorities would only give a passport to travel from one town to another, and that this would have to be changed at every Government town ; causing great trouble, expense, and delay. After due consideration I determined to apply to the Emperor for especial permission to travel and sketch, feeling certain that if this were granted, there would be no difficulties : if refused, I would not make the attempt. I wrote a letter, which was most kindly laid before His Imperial Majesty by Mr.

B

TABLEAUX VIVANTS.

Buchanan, Charge d’ Affaires ; and in three days received an answer from Count Nesselrode, informing me that the Emperor had granted my request, and that orders had been issued to the Minister of the Interior, and other authorities, to prepare for me all the necessary papers. Having received these, I commenced making inquiries about the country. The Minister of Finance very kindly put me in communication with a mining-engineer officer, who had been engaged in the Altai, and from him I collected much valuable information relative to my route.

I found the road between St. Petersburg and Moscow very bad ; the great traffic between the two capitals having cut it into such deep holes that the sledge went down every few minutes with a fearful shock. This I considered a good breaking in for the long journey before me. On the evening of the third day I reached Moscow in a great snow-storm, which rendered my entry into the ancient city anything hut pleasant. I was provided with letters to several Russian families, who did everything they could to render my short stay agreeable. About a week after my arrival, there was a great festival to commemorate the anniversary of the founding of Moscow, seven hundred years ago. Through the kindness of some friends I was enabled to join in these festivities. But I shall not attempt to describe either dinners or balls : suffice it to say, they were on a grand scale. What interested me most was a series of tableaux vivants given in the “Nobility’s Hall” (Assembly Rooms) before His Imperial Majesty and most of the Court. Some of these were highly interesting, as they were representations of life seven centuries hack. Old furniture, armour, and plate, were brought from the Kremlin ; these and the antique dresses gave a most faithful character to the pictures. During the evening a tableau was given representing the four elements, Air, Earth, Fire, and Water, which were personated by four beautiful young

THE YASHOCK.

ladies, whose appearance called forth immense applause. Without dropping the curtain, this picture was changed by suddenly drawing off the dresses ; which was done by some one beneath the stage. One young lady (whether of earth or heaven seemed difficult to determine) was kneeling on one knee on a piece of rock, and when the signal was given, was jerked from her place and turned feet upwards on the floor, — a position for which she was evidently not prepared. Many of the spectators began to laugh, but this was very properly hushed by His Imperial Majesty in an instant ; in the next, the lady was divested of her first costume, and again took her place on the rock, with the additional charm of a deep blush spreading over her face.

Another very interesting event took place during my stay : this was the jubilee given to Professor Fischer. I had previously made his acquaintance, and he was much interested in my journey. I found afterwards, on reaching the Altai, that he had written to his friend, Dr. Gabler, recommending me to his peculiar care. I remained at Moscow fifteen days, most of which were stormy, with heavy falls of snow and violent winds.

An order from the Minister in St. Petersburg procured me a postilion from the Post-office in Moscow to travel with me to Ekaterineburg ; and on the 6th of March we started. There was now no time to spare ; already the roads were reported bad, and I had a journey of 1707 versts before me. My only companion in the vashock was a large deer-hound, — the postilion sat with the driver. It is, perhaps, necessary to say that a vashock is a long, box-like machine, placed on a sledge ; in fact, a sort of half-grown omnibus. When the roads are worn into “oukhabas” (deep holes), this conveyance is too long, for the horses drag it over the ridges, going at a good speed, and jerk it beyond the centre ; then down it goes with a tremendous thump, which sends the head of the unfortunate inmate against the top with terrible

PRINCE OUROUSOFF.

force. In fact, after the second day’s travelling, I came to the conclusion that my head was well-nigh bullet-proof.

We passed through Vladimir early in the morning; when I saw the Cathedral with its five domes, which has a very imposing appearance. This is a small town, and has, I believe, fourteen churches, with several other public buildings. From one point of the road, there was a pretty view of the place with its numerous domes and towers, which gave it a very picturesque appearance. With the thermometer standing at 12° R. of frost, this was not the time to stop sketching any town, so on we galloped through snow and storm, and reached Nijne-Novgorod at nine o’clock the following morning. Having a letter to the Governor, Prince Ourousoff, I determined to stay a few hours and deliver it, also to stroll through this ancient city, held in melancholy remembrance as the one where Ivan Vassilievitch the Cruel committed some of his most barbarous atrocities. Entering the lower town, I was taken to a sort of inn on the banks of the Volga; but as my stay was to be short, it mattered little what accommodation it afforded. All those travellers who expect to find a Russian host very attentive to his guests, will be disappointed. My postilion led the way up-stairs, and showed me a whole flat of pens or private boxes in a filthy condition, and with very little furniture ; these were formed by dividing large rooms with inch-and-a-half boards. My luggage was brought up-stairs, as it could not be left with safety in the sledge. After a wash my man succeeded in getting (with some difficulty) a breakfast. Having despatched this meal I got into a sledge and paid my visit to the Governor, who received me with much kindness, and insisted on my dining with him. I urged the necessity of my pushing forward without delay, as an excuse ; but this was overruled — he assuring me that the present intense cold would prevent the roads being destroyed, and that, as I was proceeding to a

A RUSSIAN HOTEL.

colder clime, I need be under no apprehension on that score.

Being free until four o’clock, I sallied forth to stroll through the upper town, and visited some of the churches, of which there are a great number ; several are very ancient and possess considerable architectural merit. There is one that stands on the banks of the Volga — a very curious composition, which I was anxious to transfer to my sketch-book, but this was impossible. A little before the dinnerhour, I again left my lodging, got into a sledge, and drove to the upper town. The wind had now increased to a gale, and it was with difficulty the man made his horse face the clouds of snow. On reaching my point of observation, I found a party of eight assembled, and, what was still more agreeable to me, the Princess Ourousoff spoke excellent English. Having spent a few pleasant hours, I returned to my dirty room, intending to get, if possible, a good night’s rest, and start at daylight. At this place they provided neither bed, mattrass, pillows, nor sheets ; a bedstead there was with a boarded bottom, and on it I rolled myself up in my fur, and prepared for sleep. I had no sooner done this than I discovered that I had neighbours on one side of me, and by their voices I found they were of different sexes. At first they appeared to be in a very angry mood, as I supposed from the tone of their voices, which induced me to wish them on the other side of the Styx. Either I was dreadfully tired, or the chatterers became quiet, for I remember no more until roused up just at daylight ; on looking out I saw it was a clear, cold, and calm morning — a good prospect for our onward progress.

Our road was along the ice nearly all the way to Kazan, a distance of about 380 versts. Having reached the track, the four horses were turned towards the east, and away we went at a slashing pace. Temporary, or winter stations, are made on the banks of the river ;

AN ACCIDENT.

I found them wretched and dirty, often mere hovels, into which it was loathsome to enter. After leaving Novgorod, the south hank of the Volga is in many places very abrupt, and rises 150 to 200 feet above the stream. In summer, when the trees are clothed in their varied foliage, and reflected on the broad bosom of the river, many of these scenes will be exceedingly beautiful. Station after station was passed, and still our course was onward. An exhilarating gallop brought us to one of these stations about two o’clock, where we were informed that at fifteen versts distant we must leave the river, as the ice was unsafe for several versts beyond this point. In rather less than an hour we reached the place, when the yemstchick (driver) drove up the steep bank in an oblique direction. About thirty or forty feet below the summit, the horses came to a dead stand, when our united efforts could not get us out of the difficulty. After lifting and pulling for nearly an hour without gaining a yard, the shades of evening fast coming on, I began to suspect that our only hope was to send to the next station, ten versts distant, and get other horses. While the man was repairing some broken traces, the postilion and myself ascended to the top of the bank to look out for assistance, when we discovered a long caravan of sledges at a considerable distance, coming towards us ; this relieved our anxiety, and just at dusk they came up, when three of their horses were unyoked, and dragged us to the summit.

Presently we again started forward, driving over a flat table-land to another part of the river. Having gone some five or six versts I was roused up by a great shout from the two men, when we discovered that we were on the brink of a steep bank, — almost instantly the horses lost all power over the machine, and down we went with fearful speed. Suddenly a great crash occurred, every square of glass was broken, out leaped my dog much alarmed, while I was driven with such force against the side of the carriage

GENERAL BARATINSKY.

that I thought my shoulder was dislocated ; the door was wrenched open by the concussion, and I sprang out into the snow, which I found very deep. On looking round I could not see either of the men ; but forcing my way to the other side of the vashock, discovered a pair of legs sticking out of the snow : getting hold of these, and tugging away for a moment, out floundered the postilion. We now looked for the driver, and discovered him lying among his borses in the deep drift ; we dragged him out, and found him unhurt. Getting up the horses was a more laborious work ; however, in due time they were extricated, but the vehicle was a wreck. Fortunately we had a good stock of rope, and the two men set about repairing damages. At last the conveyance was pronounced strong enough to take us to the station. I sat down, when we were dragged slowly along in a most shattered condition, till we reached our destination, where I was detained four hours, while the vashock was repaired. During the time I examined into the state of affairs inside, when, to my horror, I discovered that my two mountain barometers were broken, and other things damaged. A bad beginning the first day on the Volga ! The accident had been caused by the driver going out of the track, and to avoid the stumps of some trees, had pulled his horses sharp round, over the brink of the bank which was hidden by deep snow.

After this affair, my journey along the river was smooth and agreeable, and we reached Kazan at half-past four o’clock on the morning of the second day since leaving Novgorod. Having letters to the Governor, General Baratinsky, and his lady, I presented them, and was very kindly received. I met several of the professors of the University, and in their company two days were most advantageously spent. The Kremlin at Kazan stands on high ground commanding the valley towards the Volga; and has a very picturesque effect when approached from the river. In 1844 nearly one-

MALM0U1SH.

half of the town was burned down, and even at this time many parts have a most desolate and wretched appearance. Several of the churches had been seriously damaged, and it was really distressing to see so many blackened skeletons of fine buildings, and heaps of ruins in other places.

I was advised to delay my journey as little as possible, as a few stages farther I should find no snow ; therefore at five o’clock in the afternoon of the second day I was again en route , and soon met with symptoms of a rapid thaw. Indeed so bad was the road, that I was only able to travel three stations during the night. At seven o’clock in the morning I had made but sixty-nine versts in fourteen hours. While taking my breakfast it began to rain, and continued for several hours. The postilion ordered six horses to drag us over the country ; I soon found we had left the road, and it was a hunt for a track the whole time. Snow was still lying in the woods, and wherever this was found, our pace was increased to a gallop. Near the end of the second station, I had another break-down ! Ropes were again resorted to, and another hour was spent in tying up the broken limbs of the machine. While taking my tea, I was joined by a traveller, a Russian officer, who, after speaking to the postilion, addressed me in German on the insecurity of my sledge. He remained with me for more than an hour, then left promising to dine with me at the next station where he was going ; but before leaving gave some instructions to my man.

Again we had six horses, which took us off at a rattlingpace. I began to feel great doubt as to our reaching Malmouish, the sledge was so bad : there, I felt certain, it must be left. However, at last we entered the town, when the man drove into a large yard, belonging to a very good house, which I was certain was not the station. On stepping out of the vashock, the Russian officer and an old gentleman met me, who, I was told, was the father of my

■RUSSIAN HOSPITALITY.

new friend. They led me into the house, and shortly a good dinner was placed before the officer and myself — the family having dined before his arrival. I spent several hours with these kind people ; my baggage was taken out of the vashock and packed into a kebitka, and nowhere at this place would they allow me to pay for anything I needed. They urged me to stay a day or two, but this was impossible ; I remained until midnight, when, after expressing my obligations, I was once more galloping along the road, now hard frozen. Fortunately the weather remained cold, and a heavy fall of snow, which continued for two days, rendered the road good again, though it prevented me seeing the country.

I was now on the western slopes of the Oural and very anxious to see the chain, but in this I was disappointed ; and entered Perm at half-past two o’clock on the third morning after leaving Malmouish, without having seen a mountain. From hence our road was over the Oural, and in twenty hours we should cross the boundary and be in Asia. We only remained here to change horses, as the master at the station said it was doubtful if we could reach Ekaterineburg in a sledge. About half-past three o’clock in the morning we left Perm, in a drenching rain and as dark as Erebus. How the yemstchick found his way, was to me a mystery ; but he did so, and at a most rapid speed. We had four horses, and travelled the twenty -five versts in an hour and a half.

The people at this station said I must leave the sledge and go on in a post-carriage on wheels ; however, after a long discussion between my postilion and the men, — besides a taste of a heavy whip to give weight to his argument, — six horses were at last harnessed to the sledge, and we started, the rain still pouring down, and every hour making the road worse ; indeed, in many places, it was with great difficulty that the horses could drag us along. About mid-

COXING OUR THIEVES.

day we reached Coungour, celebrated for its tanneries and its thieves. Of the attainments of the latter in their particular vocation they gave me a specimen. A considerable number of men were assembled around the sledge in which I sat, but my deer-hound leaped out, and the postilion gave him some water. The horses were quickly put in. Observing that the dog evidently wished to run, I let him do so, and we started off ; after going about two hundred yards I looked for him, but could see him nowhere. In a moment the horses were stopped and turned back towards the station— still no dog was visible. Several groups of men were standing about, but they all swore, in answer to the postilion’s questions, that they had not even seen the animal. At this moment I perceived two men walking off towards the back of some old buildings. My man had taken his pistol and gone in another direction. I took one of mine from the sledge, put it in my pocket, and followed quickly through some ruined wooden buildings into a large yard, surrounded by stables, where I found a third man ; all three turned towards me, and said something I did not understand. Being convinced I had got on the right track I gave a whistle, which the animal replied to, first by a whine, and then by a loud bark that directed me to his prison. I now walked towards the door : the three black-looking scoundrels stepped forward to prevent my opening it ; but my two barrels, suddenly pointed towards them, and the click of the lock, spoke a language they perfectly understood. Unresisted, I pushed open the door, and out bounded the deer-hound with a leathern thong on his neck. When he saw the three fellows he set up a loud growl, evidently thinking we should have a fight ; but they did not attempt to bar our passage out. My man was delighted to see the dog again, and we soon turned our backs on this den of thieves. There are several stations along this part of the road notoriously bad, demanding unceasing vigilance from the traveller.

KIRSCHEN WASSER .

Near the end of the third station from Coungour I passed a very heavily-loaded vasliock, which the horses, notwithstanding flogging, coaxing, and swearing, could scarcely move along. The evening was just drawing in when I reached the station, where, after a twelve hours’ fast, I found it necessary to take some refreshment I had brought with me, as nothing but hot-water can be obtained at these places. While doing this the vashock I had passed came up, and in walked an officer, two ladies, and a little boy. We made some attempts at conversation, and succeeded in a trifling degree with German. My provisions were nearly exhausted, so that I had none to offer them. I had, however, some very old “ Kirschenwasser,” given me by a friend to drink on the road. The ladies looked so cold, hungry, and miserable, that I could not help offering it to them as a cordial ; age, perhaps, had taken off’ its fiery edge, for one of them drank nearly a tumbler — the gentleman also partook of it freely. He was a mining-engineer, proceeding to Barnaoul.

We left them at the station, and travelled on, over frightful roads, now almost impassable, — even with six horses my progress was slow. Early on the following morning we crossed the boundary into Asia, and at the first station took my breakfast — only seventy-six versts to the end of my present journey. A thick fog, with heavy rain, obscured all the country, — a most unpleasant mantle. The last part of the road was fearful, we were fourteen hours travelling it. Between twelve and one o’clock, on the Wednesday morning, we got into Ekaterineburg, having been ten days making the journey.

After a good night’s rest, I called and delivered my letter from the Minister of Finance to the Chief of the Oural. His reception was most cordial, and having placed me under the care of a countryman, who had been in the Russian service ten years, I felt at home, being able to talk

THE CHIEF OF THE OURAL.

in my own tongue. To this gentleman, and to his amiable little wife, I am indebted for many pleasing recollections of Ekaterineburg. This was the last week of the great fast, and Sunday next was Easter. The General-in-Chief invited me to dine, and see the ceremony of kissing ; and at his house I found some fifty officers assembled. I spent three weeks among these kind and hospitable people, acquiring much useful information respecting the regions I intended to visit. My Siberian friends reached Ekaterineburg two days later. We met frequently during my stay, and then separated,— they going 2500 versts eastward, and I turning to the north, but hoping to meet again in the summer when I reached the Altai.

Chapter II. Iron Mines

The ice on the river Tchoussowaia broke up last night : this was the signal for my departure. I started at twelve, with an officer of the mines, to Outkinsko'i Pristan (port). The roads were very bad — in some places almost impassable. Even with five horses yoked to a very light carriage, we were five hours travelling twenty versts. We arrived at Bilimbawsky at eight o’clock, and went to the iron-works of Count Strogonoff. The Director gave us a hearty welcome, and entertained us most sumptuously. His supper was good and his wine excellent. He also gave me some English porter, which I enjoyed much more than his champagne. We spent a very pleasant evening ; my two friends smoked and talked until one o’clock, and then I was taken to my sleeping apartment, the drawing-room, where I passed the night upon the same sofa on which the Emperor Alexander had rested the evening of his visit to these works.

Having slept well, I turned out early in the morning, and walked over the iron-works, with which I was greatly interested. They are well conducted, and produce a large quantity of very good metal. Our host gave us a most substantial breakfast, after which we were taken in his carriage to the pristan on the Tchoussowaia — about three versts from the iron-works, — where a small boat and three men were ready to take us down the river. At this port

BARQUE-BUILDING.

numbers of workmen were busily engaged loading tbirty-six barques with bar and sheet-iron, to send to the fair at Nijne- Novgorod, where they were expected to arrive in July ; each carries a cargo of 9000 poods, or about 144 tons.

At nine o’clock we bade adieu to our hospitable host, stepped into the boat, and were soon floating down the stream at a great speed. The view from this part of the river is not very interesting ; in most places there is forest to the water’s edge on both banks, rising high on the south side, but at some distance from the river ; yet the scenery is pretty in some parts. Though the sun was shining brightly, the masses of ice and snow piled up in the valley rendered the atmosphere exceedingly cold ; nor were there any indications of spring. We descended the river rapidly, making the thirty versts in two hours, and arrived at Outkinsko'i Pristan at eleven o’clock. This is the place where most of the barques are built to convey the produce of the Oural mines and iron- works, belonging to the crown, to Nijne- Novgorod, Moscow, and St. Petersburg. It was now a scene of great activity, there being four thousand men in this small village, brought from various places (some from villages five and six hundred versts distant), all diligently engaged in loading the vessels with guns of large dimensions, made in Kamenskoi Zavod ; also with shot, shell, and other munitions of war from the different works in the South Oural, destined for Sevastopol and the forts on the Black Sea. These munitions of war are made with great care and accuracy under the superintendence of very intelligent artillery-officers.