A Personal Narrative of the Discovery of the North-West Passage

Front matter

Da-y & So«-,Iifbi?.s te> TteOusei M&ITI<m ■■',: ffl©_s®_TEm;S®™_ar©Tff_!,18i>l . A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF THE DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH-WEST PASSAGE; WITH NUMEROUS INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE DURING NEARLY FIVE YEARS' CONTINUOUS SERVICE IN THE ARCTIC REGIONS WHILE IN SEARCH OF THE EXPEDITION UNDER SIR JOHN ERANKLIN. BY ALEX. ARMSTRONG, M.D.. R.N. FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY; LATE SURGEON AND NATURALIST OF H.M.S. 'INVESTIGATOR.' PUBLISHED WITH THE SANCTION OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. LONDON: HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS, SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN, 13, GREAT marlborough street. 1857. The right of Translation is reserved. LONDON : Printed by Schulze and Co., 13, Poland Street. TO FIELD MARSHAL HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT, K.G. &c, &c, &c. THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE, WtTn THE GRACIOUS PERMISSION OF HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS, MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, IN ADMIRATION OF HIS DISTINGUISHED TALENTS AND VIRTUES, AND OF THE FOSTERING PATRONAGE HE HAS EVER EXTENDED TO SCIENCE, LITERATURE AND ART, AS WELL AS IN GRATEFUL ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF TMANY ACTS OF CONDESCENSION AND KINDNESS RECEIVED AT THE HANDS OF HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS, WHEN FORMERLY SERVING IN HER MAJESTY'S YACHT, BI HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS'S , MOST OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT, THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. The delay which has arisen in the publication of this Narrative, has proceeded from circumstances over which I had no control. On my return, from Arctic Service, at the close of 1854, my health was so much shattered, that I was unable to undertake any literary labour. Early in the following year, as soon as it was recruited, the exigencies of the war in which this country was then engaged, called me again into active service. After taking part in the Baltic campaign, the ship to which I belonged was ordered to the West Indies, from whence I have but lately returned, and untd very recently have been unable to devote any time to authorship. I still hope, however, that a faithful Personal Narrative of the circumstances attending this memorable voyage, may not prove uninteresting. It possesses the advantage of having been compiled from a Journal in which I dady noted events precisely as they occurred, and now publish at the request of my former shipmates. My principal object in writing this Work, has been to do justice to every one engaged in a voyage which,

PREFACE.

. VI for its duration and privations, is, I believe, un paralleled in Maritime annals ; and to place before the world an accurate account of deeds, which, for heroism, devotion, and endurance, have never been surpassed ; feeling assured that all employed in this Expedition are entitled to the admiration and the gratitude of their country. Agreeable as this duty has been to me, it has not been without its alloy. I have felt that I could not, consistently with the impartial discharge of my duty as the Historian of the North-West Passage, record some of the events, without giving them what I know to be both a just, and an honest criticism. That we committed errors in our voyage, it is vain to deny ; and, unpleasant as it has been to me to point them out, I should consider myself unworthy the title I have assumed, had I shrunk from doing so.

I trust, however, my remarks will be received in the spirit which induced me to make them, and that others may avoid the errors we committed, should they ever be engaged on a similar service. It has been stated that our Discovery of the Pas sage was secondary to that of Sir John Franklin's Expedition. This, in the present state of our know ledge regarding the fate of that Expedition, I cannot admit. I should feel happy, not only to concede the point, but to announce it, in my reverence for the memory of such a brave and intrepid band, could I be convinced any proof existed of

PREFACE.

. VII their having reached the Coast of America in the summer of 1850. That they did reach this Coast, I freely admit, and, assuming that they did so by Peel Sound — thereby establishing the existence of a Passage in that direction — there is no evidence which can possibly be relied on, that it was prior to the period of our Discovery, (October, 1S50). In the absence of this proof, therefore, I must reserve for H. M.S. ' Investigator ' the priority of the discovery. But should the fact be ascertained to the contrary, I shall be the first to acknowledge it, with undying admiration for those who sacrificed their lives in its attainment. I have to regret that the department of Natural History, in connection with our voyage, is not so full or satisfactory as I could have wished, from the fact of my entire collection having been left in the ship, much to my regret, on her abandonment.

I have, however, endeavoured to supply the deficiency, as far as lay in my power, from my notes. I am indebted to Dr. J. D. Hooker, F.R.S., of Kew, for the information, that he had describe;! and published an account of the plants collected by my late friend, Robert Anderson, Esq., Surgeon of H. M.S. * Enterprize,' (by whose death the Navy lost one of its ablest and most accomplished Medical Officers). As these specimens were obtained on the same lands as my own, and as they are identical with them, I have placed a list of them in the Appendix.

PREFACE.

. VIII To Wm. M. Rice, Esq., of Woolwich Dockyard, I am greatly indebted for having obligingly furnished me with beautifully-executed drawings illustrative of the plan by which the ' Investigator ' was strength ened for the ice, and warmed by means of Sylvester's Heating Apparatus, together with two valuable Papers on the subject : — that on the Warming Apparatus was compded by S. Egan Rosser, Esq., C.E. I regret, however, that the drawings came too late to be at present available. The Papers will be found in the Appendix. I beg to express my grateful acknowledgments to Sir James Clark, Bart., Physician to Her Majesty the Queen, for the personal kindness and valuable advice and assistance I have received from him in connec tion with this Work. From Dr. McCormick, R.N. I received a very in teresting account of the Geology of Kerguelen's Land, and for which I beg to return my sincere thanks.

To Alex. Carte, Esq., of the Royal Dublin Society, Captain Washington, Hydrographer of the Admiralty, John Barrow, Esq., F.R.S., Richard King, Esq., M.D., and other kind friends, my best thanks are due, for their handsome offers of assistance when preparing this Narrative for the Press. London, March, 1857. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Departure from England— Weather— First Disaster at Sea— Our Crew — Heavy Gale — Ship Leaky — Results — Part Company with our Consort — Change of Weather— Means adopted for drying Ship — Cause of Leakage — Results of our Hasty Departure from England — Lime Juice — Enter the Tropics — Temperature of Air and Decks — Crowded State and Results — Evenings in the Tropics — The Tropic Bird— Flying Fish— Their Flight, &c— Change of Weather — Stormy Petrel — Rain and Incidents — Thunder — Porpoises — Bathing — Strange Sail — Cross the Equator — Ships — Their Suspicious Appearance — Leave the Tropics — Temperate Zone — Sunset — Weather — Albatross and other Birds — Character of Winds on either side of Equator — Discolouration of Water — South-west Gale — Incidents — South America — Moth, Flight and Capture — Change of Weather, &c. — A Whale— Progress— Temperature and Soundings — Birds — Double Pay commences — Land — Cape "Virgins — Enter Straits of Magellan — Guanacos — Patagonia and Terra del Fuego — Appearances of Land — Meet H.M.S. 'Gorgon' — Another Steamer — Litelligence of ' Enterprise ' — Taken in Tow — Sight a Wreck — The Coast — Patagonians — Fuegian Coast — Temperature — Port Famine — Altered Aspect of Land — Fortescue Bay — Meet our Consort and Incidents. . . . 1 — 29

Chapter II

Preparations for leaving the Strait — Medical Survey — Specimens obtained — Departure — Aspect of the Land — Fuegians — Their Appearance, &c. — Enter the Pacific — Weather — Towing — Part company with ' Enterprise ' and * Gorgon ' — Heavy Gale, driven to the Latitude of Cape Horn — State of Ship — A Spar seen — Damage sustained — Disaster — Loss of Masts — Man overboard — Whales — Recover Life Buoy — State of the Crew — Storm Birds — Incidents Wandering Albatross — Their Capture — Sooty Albatross — Deep Sea Soundings, and Temperature of Water — Loss of Bread from Leakage — Reflections on the Voyage — Tropic Birds — Enter the Tropics — Shape course for Owhyee — Progress — Cross the Equator Rain — Trade Winds — Temperature of Air and Water — Sight of Land — Mona Roa, its height, appearance, and character — Feelings on seeing it — Islands of Mowee and Morotoi — Appearances — Ship X CONTENTS. — Oahu— Flying Fish— Arrival of Pilot— Intelligence of our Con sort — Anchor in the Roads — H. M.S. 'Swift' — Appearance and Character of Island — Entrance to Harbour — Preparations for Sea — Honolulu, Government, &c. — Missionaries — Their Laws and Influence. — Protectorate of Great Britain — Commerce — Supply aud Demand for all Articles — Houses, Natives, Appearance, Dress, and Character — Laws existing — Incidents attending Excursions — Cha racter and Appearance of the Island— Legend of its Conquest — — Our Crew — Arrival of 'Cockatrice' — Letters and Despatches from England — Completion of Work — Senior Officer's intentions — Effect produced — Climate of Islands. . . 31 — CO

Chapter III

Departure from Honolulu — Completion of Stores and Provisions, and facilities afforded — Orders of Captain Collinson — His intended Route — Valuable Intelligence received respecting the Winds — Adoption of it aud Success which followed — Incidents and Events — Enter the Temperate Zone — Progress and Soundings — Currents — Change of Temperature — Pass the Aleutian Islands, and enter the Kamtschatka Sea — Sea Birds — First Seal seen — Gore's Island, Currents and Temperature — Difficulties of Navigation — Weather — King's Island — Soundings — Pass Behring's Strait — Cross the Arctic Circle — Incidents — Whales — Temperature of Air and Water — Steer for Cape Lisburne— Issue Warm Clothing — Meet the ' Plover ' — Unfavourable Report of the Ice — Incidents — Crow's Nest — Cape Lisburne — Birds and Drift-wood — H.M.S. 'Herald' — Non-arrival of 'Enterprise' — Determination to enter the Ice alone — Aspect of the Cape — Object of Visiting it — Signal from 'Herald' — Probable Position of 'Enterprise' — Part company with ' Herald ' — Admiralty Orders to keep Company — Proceed to the North — Reflections— Value of Two Ships in solar .Navigation — Weather— Sunset. .... 61—80

Chapter IV

Enter the lee — Its Appearance — Walruses — Progress and Incidents — — Currents — Temperature — Approach the Land— Meet 'Plover' — Esquimaux Graves — Point Barrow rounded — Position and Appearance of Ice — Tides and Currents — Aspect of Ice — An Icy Scene — Cruising in the Pack — Difficulties and Incidents— Regain the Coast — Its Difficulties and Dangers — Boats towing — Encounters with the Ice — Reflections— Ice and Water — Character of former — Sunset over Ice — Point Drew— First Interview with Esquimaux—Their Visit to the Ship— Incidents— Barter — Women — Boats— Incidents and Character of Esquimaux — -Visits from several Tribes — Approach Point Pitt — Landing — Deposit a Record — Mounds — Ship grounded — Difficulties of our position— Colville River — Jones' [slands — Visit to them — Esquimaux — Interview Incidents — Thieving, and Visit to the Ship — Means adopted for recording our Visit — Progress — Temperature of Air and Water. 81—112 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter V

Difficulties in working to the North-East — Ship secured to Floe-Ice — Archery — Cast off from Floe — Progress and Incidents — An Island discovered — Point' Anxiety— Critical Position — Our Difficulties — Ship on Shore — Means adopted in consequence — Results — Again under Sail and Incidents — Boat capsizes — Loss of 33441bs. of Meat — Weather — An Ice Scene — The Pack — Our Position and State of the Ice— The Resolution adopted — Fail in effecting our Escape — A Thunder Storm — Rain and Results — Endeavour to regain the Mainland — Towing — Incidents — The Ice — Its Difficulties — Operations — Success attending them — Ship secured to Ice — Appearance — An Ice Scene — The New Island — Its Features and Character — ■ — Incidents and Observations — A Bear Track — Whales' Skulls — Ship, her Appearance — Weather — Cast off from Floe — The Ice — Its Aspect — Reflections — Incidents — Progress, Brighter Prospects and Better Results — Hopes of reaching Banks' Land — Reflections — Appearance of Ice — Open Water — Course to the Northward arrested — Soundings — Position — The Pack — Alter Course — Weather — Make the Land — Towing — Results of running into Pack — — Solitude of our Position — Stand in for the Land — Tidal Line — The Water — Alluvial Deposition and Results — Islands — Weather and Difficulties of Navigation — 'Plover's' Boats — Mackenzie River— Remarks . . . 113 — 157

Chapter VI

Weather — Point Warren — Esquimaux — Their Encampment — Appearance of a European — Landing on the Beach — A Grave — Hostile Reception by the Natives — Incidents — Peace established — The Women — Sick Man aud Incidents — Appearance of the Men — Their Hut — Consternation produced by the Ship — Results — Flight of the Tribe — Intercourse with the Indians — Fire Water — Discovery of a Button and Results — Reported Murder of a European and a Party on tne Coast — Boats seen — Appearance of their Huts — — Their Interior — Presents — Provisions — Language — Departure for the Ship — Arrive on Board — Remain off the Point — Reland — — Search for the Hut — Results — Construction of Huts — Incidents — Return on Board — Progress — Observations Harrowby Bay — ■ Land at Point Maitland — Deposit a Record — Incidents — Appearance of Laud — Natives — Visit to the Shore and Incidents attending it — Return to the Ship — Baillie Islands — Birds . 158 — lG'J

Chapter VII

Weather — Revisit, the Shore — Incidents — The Coast — Cape Bathurst — Encampment — Land on the Isthmus — Advance to Encampment — Esquimaux — Interview and Incidents — Their Hostde Aspect — Altered Demeanour — Appearance of Men and Women — Incidents CONTENTS. Fire Water — Barter — Despatches — Negotiation for their transmission — Return to the Boat — Presents to the Natives — A Gun — A Thief— Their Rude Behaviour — War Whoop — Difficulty in clear ing the Boat — Leave the Shore — Boat Aground — Esquimaux Ka yaks — Their Weapons — Mode of using them — Incidents attending our Return — Their Visit to the Ship — Invitation to the Encamp ment — Departure from Baillie's Islands — Visits from Esquimaux and Incidents — Their Account of other Expeditions — A Visit — Ex pectation of a Ship with Presents — Their Departure from the Ship — Esquimaux, their Habits, Manners, and Customs. 170—199

Chapter VIII

Departure from Cape Bathurst — Aurora Borealis — Ice — Currents — Franklin Bay — Rain — River Horton — Aspect of Land — A Bear — Refraction — Strange Appearances on Shore — Report of the Ice Mate — The Ice — A Boat despatched to the Shore — Whales and Seals — Cause of Strange Appearances — Volcanic Mounds — Weather — Difficulties — Character of Coast — Incident on Board — The Evening — Ship Beset — Cape Parry — Land discovered to the N.E. — Opinions — Position at Evening — Sunset — Aspect at Morning — Possession of Land — Name bestowed — Its Character and Incidents — Appearance of Headland and Coast — Birds seen — Progress — Incidents — Shape a Course to North- East — Weather — Difficulties — Sight of Land — Hopes and Conjectures — Currents — Temperature — Discovery of Prince Albert's Land — Discovery of Islands — Appearance of Sea — Position — Weather — Ship Beset — Gloomy Evening — Occupation — Change of Prospects — Attempt to force a Passage and Failure — Position — Amusements — Altered Aspect of Ice — Secure to Ground Ice — Sudden Departure — Difficulties — Birds. ..... 200—228

Chapter IX

Young Ice — Its Formation — Our Position — Barrow's Strait — Opinions respecting the Existence of a Passage — Drifting in the Pack — Incidents and Dangers — Equinoctial Gales — Critical Position of the Ship — Increasing Dangers — Preparations to meet Casualties — Aspect of Ice — Pressure — Continue drifting — Arrangements for abandoning Ship — Assault of the Ice — -Hawsers and Life-buoy carried away — Abatement of the Gale — Change of Weather — Temperature — Position — Collisions — Approach Princess Royal Islands — Critical Position — Escape — Conclusions arrived at— Last Day of September — Preparations for Wintering — Parhelion and Parasellenæ — — Birds — Early Days of Octoher and Occupation — Ice in Motion — Heavy Pressure — Alteration in Appearance of Ice — Experiments with Gunpowder in blasting — Aurora Borealis — Completion of Winter Preparations — Daily Routine and Exercise — Ice in Motion — Its Aspect — Reflections — Weather. . . 229 — 24S CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter X

Appearance of Weather — Departure from the Ship — Journey across the Ice — Reach Prince Albert's Land — Take Formal Possession of it in the Queen's Name — Ascend the Mountain — Incidents — Appearance of Land and Ice — Our View from its Summit — Existence of a North-West Passage established — Descent — Refreshment — Journey across the Ice arrested — Critical Position — A Night's Adventure — Incidents — Arrival of Relief — Return on Board — Halkett's Boats — Results of the Day — Celebration of taking Possession of Prince Albert's Land — Ship Stationary and Position — Preparations for a Journey to the Northward — Visit Princess Royal Islands and take Possession — Appearance of Ice grounded — Geological Character of Islands. . . 249 — 270

Chapter XI

Departure of the Travelling Party — Passage over Rough Ice — Fatigue Party — Their Route and Return — Accident to Sledge — Despatch a Sledge and Party — A Shooting Party — Five Musk Oxen killed — Measures adopted — Animals brought on Board — Quantity of Meat obtained — Return of Captain McClure — Confirmation of the Previous Discovery of the North-West Passage — View from Mount Observation — Parry and Richardson — Points Peel and Russell — Homeward Journey — A Night on the Ice — Reception of the Party — Difficulties and Hardships of the Journey — Food consumed — Pemmican and Oatmeal — Housing in — Ventflation and Warming Ship — Early Days of November— Occupations of the Men — Departure of the Sun — Aspect of Winter — Weather — December — A Fox Hunt — The Solstice — Christmas — A Seal — Weather — Last Day of the Year. .... 271—294

Chapter XII

The First Day of 1851 — Our Health and Efficiency — Inspection of Crew — Thickness of Ice — Reindeer seen and pursued — Temperature of the Month — Return of the Raven — Re-appearance of the Sun — A Wolf and Incidents — Effects of Sun's Rays on Ice — First Spring Operations — A Fox — A Hare killed — A Bear seen and pursuit — Visit to the Western Land — Baring Island and Incidents — Appearance of Land — Removal of Snow Embankment — Temperature of the Month — Survey of Provisions — Sudden Rise of Temperature — Preparations for Travelling — Despatch of Searching Parties — Their Direction — Importance of Visiting Melville Island — Captain Austin's Expedition — Pursuit of a Bear — Snow Bunting — A Seal killed — Report of Game on the Land — Return of Mr. Wynniatt and his subsequent departure — Shooting Parties — An Incident of Sport — Success in the Chase — A Bear shot — Incidents and Events. 295—325 CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XIII

Au Unexpected Arrival— Casualties— Results of the Journey— A Bear killed— Strange Discovery— Despatch of a Party— Queen's Birthday—Elucidation of a Mystery— Gulls— A Bear— Discovery of Coal Formation— Return o*f Travelling Party and Incidents— Esquimaux— A Visit to them— Deer— Rain— Ducks — Return of Captain McClure— Results of Travelling— Intelligence received from Esquimaux— Incideuts— Frost-Bite— Bears— Return of Mr. Wynniatt's Party — Results— Necessity of Combined Action— Character of Land — Incidents — Return of Lieutenant Cresswell's Party— Progress of Thaw— State of the Ice— Temperature and Weather. ... • 326-350

Chapter XIV

State of the Ice — Mosquitoes — Water — Ship Liberated — Incidents — Drifting — The Islands— Our Floe— Make Sail — Position and Difficulties — Critical Situation of Ship — Reach Point Armstrong — Reindeer — Drifting to the Northward — Effects of Gunpowder on Ice — Point Lady Ross — A Fox — Musk Oxen — Weather and Temperature — August — Incidents — Rain — Drifting — Currents — Aspect to the Northward — Position on the 10th — Supposed Appearance of Land — Open Water — Make Sad — Fog — Its Difficulties — Ship Aground — Her Safety — Strange Coincidence — Aspect of the Coast — Conical Hills — Their Formation — Blasting with Gunpowder — Its Effects — Weather — State of the Ice to the Northward — Run off Shore to South-West — Spanker Boom carried away — A Gale — Drifting — Unpleasant Position and Prospects. 351—374

Chapter XV

Departure from Prince of Wales' Strait — Chances of passing through it — Course to the Southward — Round Nelson's Head — Course to the Northward — Character of Coast — Islands discovered and Incidents — Alter Course to E.N.E. — Prospects — Land and Ice — Progress arrested — Dangerous Position — Aspect of Land — Discovery of Wood Hills — Recent and Fossilized Wood — Its Character — Petrifactions — Presence of Iron and Sulphur — Woody Stratification — Ban< and Wood discovered in other localities — Geological Causes — Original Character of the Land — Inferences deduced from the Discovery — Critical Position of the Ship — A Bear Shot — Habits of these Animals — Esquimaux Mode of killing them. 375—411

Chapter XVI

Weather and Prospects — Lakes — Fish — A Musk-Ox Hunt aud Incidents — State of the Ice — Traces of Esquimaux — The 29th of August — Perilous Position and Miraculous Escape — Incidents — Position on the 30th — Blasting Ice — Preparations for Winter — Collecting Ballast — A Jerfalcon shot — Black Fox seen — Bears — State of the Ice — Sudden Disruption — Drifted off from the Shore CONTENTS. XV — Beset in the Pack — Operations for our Release — Blasting — Cri tical Situation — Our Escape— Reach the Shore — Ship's Safety again threatened- -State of Ice — Operations by Blasting and Re sults—Open Water— Incidents— State of Ice. . 412—436

Chapter XVII

Weather — Favourable State of the Ice and Water — Preparations to start — An Opportunity lost and Results — Departure from the Floe — Progress and Retre.it — Currents — Ice in Motion — Critical Position — Pressure — Its Effects — Point Colquhoun — Progress and Incidents on the 20th— Drifting — Perilous Drifting — Cape Wrottesley — Position — Cape Austin — Difficulties — Ship secured — Cape Crozier — Prospects — (Geological Character of Coast — Inferences — Dangerous Character of the Coast — Progress on the 23rd — Incidents — Weather — An Ice Barrier — Our Passage through it — Aspect of Evening — Ship on Shore — Measures adopted — Their Success — Fortunate Escape — The Night. . . 437 — 460

Chapter XVIII

Position on 23rd September — Resolution adopted— Enter the Bay of Mercy — Error in doing so — Reasons advanced for entering the Pack— Reflections — Results of our Voyage — A Second North- West Passage discovered — Dismantle Ship — State of the Ice — Reduction of Provisions — Observations on Polar Diet — Necessity of large allowance of Food — State of the Ship — Cold between Decks — Party despatched to the North and their return — State of Ice — Large Expanse of Water seen — Our inability to enter it — Pleasing Intelligence — First Reindeer killed — Evidence of Game on the Land — Remarks on Reindeer . . 461 — 482

Chapter XIX

The Hunting — Incidents of Sport — Wolves — A Night Adventure — Return of Shooting Parties — Produce of the Chase — Its Salutary Effects — Inspection of the Crew — Weather — Lightning — Change of Temperature — Departure of the Sun — Winter Preparations — Occupations — Arctic Currency — Barometric Changes — -Weather — December Gale — Christmas Day ■ . 483 — 495

Chapter XX

First day of 1852 — Health of the Crew — Appearance of Reindeer — One killed — An Incident of Sport and Results — Return of the Sun — Incidents and Events — Absence of three Men — Fears entertained — Their return — Reindeer Hunting — Its Hardships and Difficulties — Sanitary State in April — Adventure with Wolves — Departure of a Party for Melville Island — Incidents — Appearance of Scurvy — Weather — Return of the Party — Their Journey and Results — Disappointment — State of the Ice — State of the Men on their Return — Weather — Results of the Hunting — Appearance of Snow-Geese — Other Birds — Order of their Arrival and Departure ..... 496—522 CONTENTS.

Chapter XXI

Laborious Occupation of the Crew — Its Effects — Thickness of Ice — Birds — Wolves and Reindeer — Incidents of Sport — Red-throated Diver — State of the Ice and Weather — Health of the Crew — General Appearance of Scurvy — Recommendations made to prevent it — Pleasing Intelligence — Two Musk Oxen killed and Incidents — Great Northern Diver shot — Bears — Presence of Birds — Ice reported in Motion — Seals killed — Open Water seen to the Northward — Sorrel and Scurvy Grass — Their Effects — State of Ice — Mercy Bay — Its Aspect — Young Ice formed — Ship Frozen in — Gloomy Prospects — Further reduction of Provisions — Plan proposed for abandoning the Ship — Results likely to follow its adoption — Onr Necessities — Cold and Hunger — Its Effects and Incidents — Hunting, its Difficulties — Close of the Year. 523 — 552

Chapter XXII

The Year 1853 — Intensity of the Cold in early months — State of things on Board — Reappearance of the Sun — Preparation for Travelling — Two Wolves shot and Incident — Hares and Lemmings — Their Habits — Party told off — Opinions of their fitness — Increase of Food for Travellers— Its Effects— The Sick List— The First- Death on Board — Unexpected Arrival of Lieutenant Pirn — Joyful Intelligence of Relief — Effect produced — Reflections — A Funeral — State of our Crew — Two Deaths occurred — Want of Remedies — Return of Lieutenant Pirn — His kindness to us Captain McClure proceeds to Melville Island — Departure of one-half of the Crew — Return of Captain McClure — Results of Journey — State of our Men on arriving at Melville Island — A Survey ordered on Board ' Investigator ' — Results — Ship to be abandoned — Preparations — Depot formed — Abandonment of the ' Investigator' — Journey to Melville Island — Its Difficulties — Incidents — Our Arrival on Board the ' Resolute ' and Incidents. 553 — 582

Chapter XXIII

The ' Resolute ' — Intelligence received — Improvement in Health — Sporting Parties— State of the Ice— Drifted off the Land — Release of the Ships — Cruising — Ships beset in young Ice — Drifting — Winter Quarters — Our Disappointment — Death of Mr. Sainsbury —His Funeral— The Winter — The Year 1854 — Commencement of the Fifth Year of Arctic Service — Departure of our Crew to Beechey Island— Mode of Travelling and Incidents of the Journey —Ice— Travelling in the Spring— Arrival on BoardH.M.S. ' North Star ' — Death of Thomas Morgan — Abandonment of ' Resolute ' and 'Intrepid | — Intelligence received of 'Enterprise' — A Visit to the * Investigator ' — State in which she was found — Inferences — Incidents — Abandonment of ' Assistance ' and ' Pioneer ' — Arrivals — Departure from Beechey Island — Incidents — Arrival in England ..... 583—596 Appendix 597—616

Introduction

. It is not my intention, nor, indeed, do I consider it necessary, to offer any remarks on the Progress of Arctic Exploration and Discovery, in which this Coun try has at various times been engaged, during a period of three hundred years, in endeavouring to discover a Passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, which, until 1850, had been sought in vain. History has already done justice to the great and persevering efforts of the earlier Arctic Navigators ; and the deeds of daring, skdl, and enterprize which characterized the more recent Expeditions, are yet too fresh in the memory of the Nation to call for any observation here. They must ever remain an im perishable record of the prowess and energy of British seamen and marines. It must not, however, be for gotten that the earlier Navigators — our Pioneers in those icy seas — are entitled to share in the honour of the Discovery of a North-West Passage, having c