Visit to Northern Europe: or sketches descriptive, historical, political and moral, of Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland, and the free cities of Hamburg and Lubeck, etc

Front matter

VISIT TO WOIE^IHIIilElf 3^TUIE©FI^o Frederiksoorg Castle, referred to in Chajit xv. NEW-YORK: JOHN S. TAYLOR Sj CO. PUELI9HERS. 1843. J VISIT TO NORTHERN EUROPE OR SKETCHES DESCRIPTIVE, HISTORICAL, POLITICAL AXD MORAL, OF DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN AND FINLAND AN'D THE FREE CITIES OF HAMBURG AND LUBECK, CONTAINING NOTICES OF THE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS, COMMERCE, MANUFAC- TURES, ARTS AND SCrENCES, EDUCATION, LITERATURE, AND RELIGION, OF THOSE COUNTRIES AND CITIES. BY ROBERT BAIRD. WITH MAf9 AND NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL I. NEW YORK: PUBLISHED BY JOHN S. TAYLOR & CO. BRICK CHURCH CHAPEL, 143 NASSAU STREET. 1841. Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the yoar 1311, by JOHN S. TAYLOR, in the Clerk's Office ofthe District Court ofthe [suited States, for ihe Southern District of New York. S. W. BENEDICT, PRINT.

Preface

. A brief explanation, both of the circumstances under which this work has been written and published, and of the plan upon which it has been prepared, is due to the reader. When the author was about to go to Europe, in the year 1835, many of his friends requested him to write something respecting the countries which he might visit during his so journ in the old world, if the nature of his work there, and the duties which resulted from it, should permit. He could hardly do otherwise than promise compliance with their wishes. At that epoch, neither he nor any of his friends foresaw that his labors in Europe, for the philanthropic and religious objects for which he was sent thither, would call him to any other country than France, and those which are contiguous to it. In a short time, however, it became obvious that duty required him to visit almost the entire continent.

Accordingly he has continued, with two interruptions, occasioned by visits to his native country, to pursue the work to which he was called, and in its prosecution he has visited most of the countries in Europe twice, and some of them three times. These repeated and protracted visits to the various parts of the great field of his efforts, certainly offered him favorable opportunities for obtaining extensive information respecting the different countries which were comprised in it. But the nature and variety of his duties rendered the writing of a book extremely difficult, if not impossible. Nevertheless, last year, during his second visit to the Scandinavian countries, the attempt was made to write something which might be useful to his friends and countrymen, respecting at least

PREFACE.

. IV that portion of the continent. And amidst the sufferings resulting from a long-continued illness — which he endured, on a journey of several months in Scandinavia and Russia, the following work was mainly written; while his many and pressing duties since he returned to pass a few months in this country, have not left him time to do more than review what he had written on the spot, and supply such portions of the work as he had not been able to write in the course of the journey which it undertakes to de scribe. Under these unfavorable circumstances, the work was prepared, and is presented to the public. The author is deeply sensible that it is neither what it ought to be, nor what it would have been, — if he could have spared the necessary time for its proper preparation. But such time he never expects to find, and therefore, if he published the work at all, he must publish it as it is, and throw himself upon a public which he believes to be disposed to judge with kindness every attempt, however humble, to contribute some thing towards the augmentation of useful knowledge respecting other countries.

Thus much for the circumstances under which this book was written and new issues from the press. A word or two in relation to the plan which has been adopted. Two courses, widely differing from each other, presented themselves to the author's mind at the outset, in regard to the nature of his proposed work. The one was to write a book which should contain as much interesting and useful information respecting the countries of which it might treat, as could be conveniently exhibited in such a work, and as little about the personal adventures of the author as would be consistent with giving to it some degree of connection and unity. The other was to write a book of travels, properly so called, and fill it with accounts of what he saw or heard in the countries under consideration, and of his intercourse with the various classes of persons with whom he came in contact.

PREFACE.

. V There can be little doubt as to which of these courses it would have been the more easy to pursue ; and just as little as to which would have secured the greater degree of popu larity. Had the author resolved to follow the latter, he could without difficulty, and without drawing very largely on his imagination, have filled a work with incidents that fell under his observation, or which he heard from others, which, it is probable, would be read with not a little interest. This would have been more certainly the case if he had given freely and extensively the remarks that were made to him by many of the distinguished individuals with whose acquaint ance he was honored, and whose hospitalities, in not a few cases, he was invited to enjoy. It did not require a moment's deliberation to decide on the former course as more likely to be useful, however diffi cult to execute; and to reject the latter, as likely to lead, on the one hand, to the saying of many things of no sort of utility to the reader, and on the other, of violating confidence, and doing what would be discreditable to himself, and what is of far greater consequence, to the country which he is proud to call his own, and which he can truly say that every year's residence abroad renders dearer than ever to his heart.

He therefore resolved to prepare a work which, whilst it might contain some notices of his own comparatively insignificant movements, should be filled mainly with such geographical, topographical, historical, and biographical sketches, in terspersed with useful and interesting anecdotes and facts, as might, in his opinion, be instructive to the reader. Upon this basis the work has been written ; and this explains why so much detail has been given. The author has had frequent occasion to lament, when perusing books of travels, that they often fail to give the reader a correct or satisfactory conception of the places which are proposed to be described. He would state a single instance : how often has he read in books of travels, to say nothing of letters in the newspapers, of the Golden Horn at Constan tinople, and yet never, so far as he recollects, has he seen in any book, an intelligible description of that beautiful VOL. i. VI TREFACE. sheet of water, which runs up from the Bosphorus and separates the city of Constantinople from a suburb that lies to the east, and forms, in fact, one of the finest harbors in the world.

How far he has himself avoided this defect, it does not become him to say. Travellers, after having visited a particular scene, and of course having their minds filled with the clear impressions which personal observation always gives, are ever in danger, when they sit down to write, not only of losing all recollection of their own former ignorance and misconceptions, but of actually taking it for granted that those for whom they write have very much the same ideas ofthe scenes which they are a"" jut to describe as they themselves now possess. The reader will find that the present work differs in many respects, from the generality of books of travels. A chapter has been bestowed on the history of each ofthe most import ant of the Scandinavian countries, because the author has supposed that the reader would be interested in perusing such an epitome of the past, before he enters upon the more minute details which follow.

Biographical sketches have been given of Thorvaldsen, Griffenfeld, Tordenskiold, Tycho Brahe, and other distinguished men, because it was hoped that they would be found interesting and instructive. In a word, the author, in preparing this work, has acted very much upon the principle of supposing that those who will read it know but little about the countries of which it treats; and in "doing so, he has availed himself of all the means which he possessed of collecting such information as he deemed most likely to be useful, from books, from per sonal observation, and from the conversations and contributions of the best informed men, whose acquaintance he formed in the countries which are spoken of in this work. It is probable that this book will fall into the hands of some who are already familiar with all the information which it contains.

To such persons the author begs leave to offer two remarks : First, he prays them to remember that there may be others who are less informed on the subject than they are. And secondly, he forewarns them that the book was not written for them. Let them, therefore, put it aside.

PREFACE.

. VII The age of dedications is pretty much passed away ; and if it were not, the author has no pretensions to the patronage of any one. But if he thought it advisable to attempt any thing of the sort, he would inscribe this humble work, first to the friends of his youth in his native county of Fayette, in Penn sylvania, who have been pleased to take a lively interest in all that has concerned him ; and next to the many friends and acquaintances whom he is thankful for possessing in so mam parts of his country. It gives the author great pleasure to express here his many obligations to the diplomatic and commercial agents of his government, whom he met in the countries which he visited. He received nothing but kindness from these gentle men, whose attentions he is happy to know, are most cordially rendered to all their countrymen who visit those hyperborean regions.

To none of them is he more indebted than to Christopher Hughes, Esq., who has long been the acceptable and faithful representative of the United States at the Court ofSweden. One word more : This work is wholly of a miscellaneous character, and treats of no subject exclusively. To such as have expected to find in it a more detailed account of the religious condition of the Scandinavian countries, he would say, that if it please God to spare his life, and continue his health, it is his intention to publish a work on the state of religion through out the whole continent of Europe, and he will, in that work. enter into all the details connected with that subject. With these remarks the present work is commended by the author to the kind regards of his friends and of the public. New-York, November, 1841.

NOTE. In addition to the common histories and other works which treat ofthe Scandinavian countries, the author has had occasion to consult the following books. 1. Denmark Delineated, or Sketches of the Present State of that Country : By A. Andersen Feldborg, published at Edinburgh in 1824. 2. Dr. Edward Clarke's Travels in Scandinavia. 3. Coxe's Travels in the North of Europe. 4. Barrow's Travels, in Russia, Finland, Sweden, Norway and Denmark. 5. Scandinavia, Ancient and Modern : By Dr. Andrew Crichton of Scotland, and Henry Wheaton, Esq., American Ambassador at Berlin. From this invaluable work, which contains the best history ofthe countries of which it treats that can be found in English, the author has drawn much and freely, in preparing the historical sketches which he has given in this book. 6.

Laing's Toue in Norway, and 7. Laing's Tour in Sweden, both of them filled with valuable information. 8. Lettres sur le Nord, par X. Marmier. 9. Recueil des Exposes de l'administration du Royaume de Suede ; traduit du Suedois, par J. F. De Lundbad. Page 13 86 CONTENTS.

Chapter I Voyage From Havre To Hamburg

Departure from Havre in the steamer Paris — Grand increase of steam-boats engaged in the commerce osthis city — Beauty of the weather and the scene in passing the straits of Dover and Calais — Vast commerce of the North Sea — Scene of the destruction ofthe Invincible Armada — Battle ofCainperdown — Admirals Duncan and De Winter — The loss of life in some of the great naval battles of England, compared with that of some of her great battles on land — Those ofthe Nile, Copenhagen, Trafalgar, Salamanca, Vittoria, Waterloo — Approach to the Elbe — Heligoland — Cuxhaven — Ascent of the Elbe — Scenery on each bank — Stade — Blaukenese — Altona — Arrival at Hamburg, and the debarkation

Chapter II. Hamburg

Position of Hamburg — Its harbor — Its canals — The Alster — Description of the houses — Their shape, &c. — Height of the houses — Narrowness ofthe streets — Busy aspect ofthe city — The Exchange — The cellars — Handsome appearance of the people — The costume of the Vierlanders — Ofthe servant women — Fortifications of Hamburg — Now almost leveled down, and forming pleasant promenades — Gates — Practice of shutting the gates at sun-down — Tolls — Want of public Places in Hamburg — The Binnen Alster, and its beautiful promenades — The finest streets in the city — The environs — Parish or suburb of St. Paul — Parish of St. George — The shores of the Grosse Alster— The village of Ham CONTENTS. X 52 73

Chapter III

, HAMBURG. But few fine public buildings in Hamburg— The old Exchange —The Bank and currency of the city— Churches — Want of places of worship — Low state of religion — A fine motto — Great St. Michael's — View from one of its towers — Humane establishments— Orphan House— The Asylum— The Hospital ofthe Holy Ghost — The General Infirmary or Krankenhaus — St. Job's Hospital— The Convent — Prisons — Almshouses, etc. — Literary establishments — Primary schools — The Gymnasium — The Johanneum — Its history— Other schools and scientific institutions — The book-trade — The Press — The Censorship ....

Chapter IV. Hamburg

ITS HISTORY AND FORM OF GOVERNMENT Hamburg sounded by Charlemagne— Made the see of an Archbishoprick by Louis le Debonnaire — Long exposed to the attacks of the Germans and Danes — Embraced the Reformation — Became an Imperial Free City in 1618 — Gained much during the Thirty Years' war — Was a prominent city in the Hanseatic League — Suffered much from the French from 1803 till 1814 — Conduct of Bernadotte, Vandamme, Davoust — Expulsion ofthe French, and restoration of its ancient form of Government — Constitution of Hamburg — The Senate, and its powers — The Burgomasters, Syndics — Council or College of the Elders— College of the Sixty— College of the One Hundred and Eighty — Functions of the Senate — The General Assembly of the citizens — Law-making power — Of the Executive — The Judiciary — Custody of the Treasury — Various details — Military affairs ofthe city — Police — Watch and fire department — Government ofthe Territory of Hamburg — Present state and prospects of the Commonwealth

Chapter V. Lubeck

Detestable roads between Hamburg and Lubeck — Situation of the latter city — Our journey thither — A German Doctor — CONTENTS. XI 95 Want of a rail-road between these two important free cities — Pleasantness ofthe site and appearance of Lubeck — Agreea ble streets— Old-fashioned houses — Its ramparts now pleasant promenades — History of Lubeck — Its ancient size and im portance — Its former wealth and commerce— Its present population — Remarkable things in Lubeck — Dom Kirche — St. Mary's — Wonderful clock — Dance of Death — The Carv ed Chamber — The Rathhaus Overbeck — Lubeck was the capital of the Hanseatic League — History of the Hausa or League — Causes which led to its decline — Present number of the Hanseatic or Free Towns — Constitution and govern ment of Lubeck — More democratic than Hamburg — Capture of this city by the French in 1606 — Awful scenes which en sued — Return to Hamburg ....

Chapter VI. History Of Denmark

Early history ofthe Scandinavian country fabulous — Scandinavia unknown to the early Romans — The Cimbric War — Tacitus's account of the Scandinavians — Pliny 's— Character of the people — Religious rites — Procopius's account of the Scandinavians — Cassiodorus — The arrival of Odin from Scythia — His adventures and character — His institutions and death — History of Denmark from the days of Odin till Horda Knut— Dan Mykillati— Rolf Krake— Ivar Vidfadne — Harold Hildetand — Sigurd Ring — Ragnar Lodbrok — Horda Knut I. — Gorm the Old — Harold Blaatand — Svend Tveskæg— Knut the Great— Horda Knut H.— History of Denmark to the Union of Calmar — Svend Estrithson and his five sons — Prosperous reign of Valdemar the Great — The good Bishop Absalom — The successes of Valdemar the Great — Valdemar III. — Christopher I. — Valdemar IV.

(Atterdag) — Margaret — History of Denmarkfrom the treaty of Calmar till the Reformation — Capricious reign of Erik — Christian I. — John or Hans — Christian II., and his cruelties — Frederick I. — Christian III. — History of Denmark from the Reformation to the present time — Frederick II. — Christian IV., Denmark's ablest monarch — Frederick HI., wise and able — Change in the Constitution ofthe kingdom — Christian V. — Frederick IV. — Christian VI. and Frederick V., both good monarchs — The imbecile and un- CONTENTS. XII 123 162 fortunate Christian VII. — The unhappy fate of the queen, Caroline Matilda — The adventures and fate ofthe celebrated Struensee — Copenhagen twice attacked by the English — Frederick VI., the calamities of his reign, and his domes tie sorrows — Christian VIII., the present king

Chapter VII. Journey From Hamburg To Kiel

Various routes from Hamburg to Copenhagen — That by Kiel preferable to the others — Departure from Hamburg in a Holstein wagon or diligence — Our fellow-passengers — Altona, and its Institutions — Origin of its name — Its Churches — Beauty of its situation — Village of Ottensen — Tombs of Klopstock and his two wives— Notices of his life — Baron Von Voght — Duke of Brunswick — Dumourier — Bourrienne — Village of Flottbeck — Departure from Altona — Erroneous ideas of the Ancient Greeks respecting the Geography ofthe Scandinavian countries, as shown by the writings of Herodotus and Strabo — Pythias — Pliny — Romans become acquainted with Scandinavia by their conquests in Germany — Procopius — Ohthere and Vulfstan — Derivation ofthe names Denmark, Norway and Sweden — Geographical notice of Denmark — Its general aspect — Its soil — Its productions — Its bays and friths — Road from Altona to Kiel — Slowness ofthe Holstein stages — Appearance and dress of the Holstein peasants — Modes and implements of agriculture — Improvements in agriculture — Holstein Nobles — Governor of Sleswic — Holstein — Duchy of Lauenburg— Beauty of the country in the neighborhood of Keil — Arrival at that city . . :

Chapter VIII. Voyage From Kiel To Copenhagen

Situation of Kiel — Its fine bay — Kiel an old German city — Market-day — Women of Probstey — Steam-boats from Kiel to Copenhagen — Kiel often visited by Russian ships of war — University of Kiel — Professors — Mode of giving instruction by lectures — Public and private lectures — Preparations for leaving Kiel — M. Marmeir's description of the CONTENTS. XIII 208 arrival and departure of the Copenhagen steam-boats — Beautiful voyage down the bay of Kiel — Voyage through the Danish Archipelago — Description of these islands — Their cultivation — Life and manners of the inhabitants — Villages — Our steamer stops at various places — Amphibi ous life of the inhabitants of the Danish islands — Their su perstitions, tales and songs — King Christian — Beauty of the scene on the Sound — Bluffs of Moe'n — The obscurity and gloom which hang over the early history of these re gions — Approach to Copenhagen — Its appearance — Crowds on the wharf — Our man Matthew — Hotel d'Angleterre ... ... 185

Chapter IX. Copenhagen

Geographical position of Copenhagen — Its fine port — Its advantages for being a Free City — Royal Navy Yard — Lord Molesworth's opinion of the advantages of the site of Copenhagen — History of Copenhagen — Origin of the name — The calamities with which this city has been visited — Description ofthe city, its streets, its ramparts — Important places in Copenhagen — Kongens Nye Torv — Statue of Christian V. — Hotels of this place — Palace of Charlottenburg — Academy of Arts — Thorvaldsen and his history — His finest works — Royal High Military School — Amalien Plads — Statue of Frederick V. — Marble Church, a ruin — Palace of Christiansborg — Its former greatness and splendor — Its present state — Thorvaldsen-Gallery — Exchange — Hojer's painting of Christian IV., and Tycho Brahe* — The University — The Observatory — City Hall

Chapter X. Copenhagen

St. Mary's Church — Thorvaldsen's group of John the Bap tist preaching in the Wilderness — The interior of this church beautiful — Thorvaldsen's group of Christ and his Apostles — Criticisms on this group — The Baptismal Font — The Gymnasium in the rear of this church — The view from the tower of the Frue Kirke or the St. Mary's — Trinity church, and its Round Tower, used as an Observato- CONTENTS. XIV 233 263 ry— The feat of Peter the Great — The globe os Tycho Brahe* — Monument of Corfitz Ulfeld, and his history — Palace of Rosenberg, its contents and its garden — Sword of Gustavus Adolphus — Sword of Charles XII. of Sweden — Oldenburg Drinking Horn — Seamen's Barracks — Roy al Navy Yard — The church of the Redeemer — Holman's Kirke — Tombs of Nils Juel and Tordenskiold — History of the latter — His untimely and foolish end — Royal Museum of Arts — Museum of Northern Antiquities — Royal Muse um of Natural History — Royal Gallery of Paintings — Jo nah preaching to the Ninevites — Professor Lund's great painting — The Royal Library — Its History — Professor Werlauff, its present Keeper — Count Griffenfeld — His vast attainments — His mournful fate — Library of the Uni versity — The Classen Library — The Athenæum— Prisons — Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb — Establishment of the Blind

Chapter XI. Environs Of Copenhagen

The more distant environs of Copenhagen beautiful — Interesting localities in the immediate vicinity — Scene of the Battle of the Baltic — Fortifications on Amager Islands — The Trekroner — The Citadel — The position of the Danish fleet in the Battle of the Baltic — The position of Nelson's fleet — His arrangements — Dreadful slaughter — Sir Hyde Parker makes signal for Nelson's retreat — His refusal to obey — The fate of Riou — The termination ofthe battle — The consideration of the question whether Nelson gained a victory — The Truce — Nelson lands and visits the Crown Prince — The Armistice — The burial of the slain Danes — The spot where they repose — The Cemetery — The Column of Liberty — The present condition of the peasants of Denmark — The Palace of Frederiksberg and its garden — Au account of the second attack upon Copenhagen by the English, under Lords Gambier and Cathcart .......

Chapter XII. Education In Denmark

The Danes a well-educated people — The elements of a common education widely diffused — Present system of Primary CONTENTS. XV 28f 391 301 Schools dates from 1814— The influence ofthe practice of making their first communion at an early age, on the education ofthe Danes— Parishes required to maintain schools —The schools greatly under the influence ofthe Pastors- Catechisms taught in the schools — The Gymnasia— The Normal Schools— The Universities of Copenhagen and Kiel — Superabundance of literary men

Chapter XIII. Literature Of Denmark

The literature of Denmark is modern— Its commencement during the reign of the Valdemars— Saxo Grammaticus— The revival of letters in the reign of Christian L— Print- 'ing introduced into Denmark in the reign of John— Learning and education encouraged by Frederick I., as well as by Christian III. and Frederick II.— Christian IV. did much for learning— Frederick III. encouraged learning, but his son and successor, Christian V., neglected it— Little encouragement of literature in the reigns ef Frederick IV. and Christian VI.— Reigns of Christian VII. and Frederick VI. — Literature flourishes— Its present state— Many distinguished scholars in Denmark

Chapter XIV

jMORAL AND RELIGIOUS STATE OF DENMARK. The Danes an amiable people— The higher classes distinguished for rejined and accomplished manners — The agricultural and village population generally honest, simple-hearted, and virtuous — The peasantry of ihe continental provinces more virtuous than those of the Islands — The people of the capital and other cities less virtuous than the inhabitants ofthe rural district-;— The Religion of Denmark almost v-holly Protestant— The Lutheran Church the Established Church of Denmark— The number ofthe Roman Catholics and Jews — The number ofthe Dioceses and Superintendencies, Deans, and Pastors — The patronage ofthe Crown— Character of the Danish Clergy— Supply of the Scriptures — Want of convenient religious books — Intolerance in Denmark — Persecution ofthe Baptists CONTENTS.

Chapter XV. Tour In The Interior Of The Island Of Zealand

Projected tour into the interior of Zealand — Matthew's preparations for it — Early departure — Fine weather — Appearance of the country-people, hastening to the market of the capital — Their horses and vehicles — The Zealand summer stages or omnibuses — The appearance of the country — Kioge Bay — Town of Kioge — Valoe Castle and its Nunnery — Vemmetofte Nunnery — Village of Vordingborg and the ruins of Valdemar's Castle — Herlufsholm School — Soroe and its Gymnasium — Former journey hence, by way of Corsbr, over to Funen, and thence into Sleswic and Hbtetein, with notices of Odensee. Sleswic, Flensburg, &c. — Journey from Soroe into the north of Zealand — Roeskilde — Its former size and importance — Its Cathedral, the Westminster Abbey of Denmark — Bishop William — His conduct towards King Svend — Monuments in the Cathedral — Letre and its Hospital — Jegerspres, its old chateau, its grove, and its monuments — Frederiksværk — Palace of Frederiksborg — Palace of Fredensborg — Scenery of Lake Esrom — Interesting villages in the northeastern part of Zealand — Slangerup, Blausterod, Sollerod, Overod, Nye Molle, Brede, Jægersborg-Park, Sorgenfrie, Frederiksdal, Gientofte, Evald's Hill, Charlottenlund — Return to the Capital 315

Chapter XVI. General Observations On Denmark

The great change effected in the Government of Denmark by the Revolution of 1660 — Denmark an absolute monarchy in theory, but limited in its action by circumstances — Provincial legislatures instituted in 1834 — Their nature and powers — The administration of justice excellent in Denmark — Courtsof Arbitration — Evils in the Public Administration — Too many military men appointed to civil offices — Public Functionaries too numerous — Mr. Laing's statements incorrect in several particulars — Population of Denmark — The Navy — The Army — Unjust mode of its formation — Public revenue and expenditure — Encouragement of the Arts aud Sciences by the Government — Injurious restrictions on trade — Trades' Corporations — Need of reform — . . . . . . ;.,/,,;/ tin John S .-luyhir A-l'oJIeyt York VISIT TO SCANDINAVIA.

Chapter I. Voyage From Havre To Hamburg

Departure from Havre in the steamer Paris— Great increase of steam-boats engaged in the commerce of this city— beauty of the weather and the scene in passing the straits of Dover and Calais— Vast commerce of the North Sea— Scene ofthe destruction of the Invincible Armada— Battle of Camperdown— Admirals Duncan and De Winter— The loss of life in some of the great naval battles of England, compared with that of some of her great battles on land —Those of the Nile, Copenhagen, Trafalgar, Salamanca, Vittoria, Waterloo—Approach to the Elbe— Heligoland— Cuxhaven— Ascent of the Elbe- Scenery on each bank— Stade— Blonkenese— Altona— Arrival at Hamburg, and the debarkation. July 11, 1840.— Left Havre at 7 o'clock, P. M., in the steam-boat Paris for Hamburg. The weather was mild and beautiful. The sun was fast descending to the horizon, and to his " ocean-bed," as our noble steam-ship moved majestically out of the basin, or artificial harbor, in the heart of the city, and passed through the Grand Canal, which forms the entrance to the haven from the Eiver Seine.

In a few moments we were on the broad expanse of that river, just where it empties itself into the English Channel. In a few moments more we rounded the high bluff that lay on our right hand, lost sight of the city and its forest of masts, rising up amidst its houses and overtop ping them, and were fairly on our way for the North. vol. i. Our steam-ship was one of the line of steam-vessels which run weekly between Havre and Hamburg. These ships are vessels of what may be called the first claVs, as it regards size, and are propelled by powerful engines. The length of the* Paris is one hundred and eighty feet. In proportion to her length she is a narrow vessel, sharp-built, and well constructed for swiftness. It is surprising to remark how rapidly the number of steam-boats, which issue from Havre, have increased since the year 1835.

At that epoch, there were but few running, and those few were chiefly confined to the navigation of the Seine. At present, besides those which run daily up to Kouen, or across to Honfleur, there are now regular lines of steam-boats established between Havre and the following named points, and which issue from it, as from a focus, viz. : Cherbourg, Morlaix, Bordeaux, Lisbon, Cadiz and the Mediterranean ports, Portsmouth and Southamp ton, London, Dunkirk, Antwerp, Amsterdam, Hamburg, Copenhagen, and St. Petersburg. There are, probably, between thirty and forty steam-boats now plying between Havre and other ports ; a few years ago there were but five or six. Our course, north-eastward, was along the coast ol France, and at but a few miles' distance, from it. But night soon came on, and put an end to the rich enjoyment which we found in sitting on the deck and contemplating the shores of a country, which, though foreign, contained so many objects around which our affections most tender ly clustered.