Passages in the Life of a Soldier; or, Military Service in the East and West

Chapter I

Sevastopol — Recollections of a former Visit to it — Distribution of the besieging Armies — The Right and Left Attacks — Good spirit of the Soldiers — Their Duties in the Trenches — The General's Hut there — Casualties in the Valley of Death — Imprudence of young Soldiers — Hardships and sufferings of the Siege in Winter — Soldier's Song — Trench Life in Summer — Commissarv- General Filder, C.B.— Lieut. Donelly, R.E.— Death bf Captain Maunsell — A Hot Place — The Sailors of the Naval Brigade — Incidents of Trench Work — Sergeant O'Grady — -Facetious Soldiers and Sailors — Return to Camp 1 — 34

Chapter II

Admiral Boxer, C.B. — His Energy — His Death — The Erame Huts — How to manage a Tent — Effects of impure Water — The Sardinians — Sir William Eyre, K.C.B. — Admiral Michell, C.B. — A Bombardment — Lord Raglan — General Pelissier — Omar Pasha — The Mamelon assaulted and carried — Also the Quarries — Burial of the Dead — The Russian Hand-Mines — Anecdote of an American — Hospitals — Cholera from im- CONTENTS. prudence— The fourth Bombardment— Preparations for an Assault — Colonel Waddy and the Stormers — Casualties in tho Woronzoff Road— Repulses at the Redan aud Malakoff— The Honourable Captain Agar — English Navvies— Bad effects of Rum— Eyre's Brigade — Fight at the Cemetery — Lieutenant James, li.E., Captured — Divine Service .... 35 — 82

Chapter III

Visit the French Works about the Mamelon — Thc Guards of the Trenches — How Embrasures should be blocked — Visit the French Works opposite the Bastion du Mat — Casualties — Examine a French Mine — Visit the French Lines at thc Quarantine — Death of Lord Raglan — Funeral Procession to Kazatch Bay — Women in Camp — Trench Incidents — Ride to Vernutka — A Blast against Tobacco — Discover an Old Acquaintance — Story of Mr. Willis — Impatient Newspaper Articles — Anecdote of a Zouave — Ride to tbe Baidar Valley — A Land-Transport Sergeant — Mortality — Trench Anecdotes — Establish a Regimental Canteen — Gambling — Cookim* — M. Soyer — Danger from thc Sun's Heat 83-121

Chapter IV

Sir James Simpson — Anticipated Fi»ht — The Russians muster at the Tchernaya — Battle-field described — Russians assault the Fedouchine Heights — Desperate fight at the Traktir Bridge — The British Guns there — Defeat of the Enemy— Visit the Field of Battle— The slain and wounded — The Enemy fire on the Ambulance—Colonel Hamley, R.A. — The long-range Shot in Camp — A hot night in the Trenches — The Caves by Day — Effects of disobedience of orders — Dr. Home's Servant — Dreadful death of an Artilleryman — A Sailor tries to burn tbe Russian Ships of War . 122 — 14S

Chapter V

Effect of Rain-storms iu Camp — Use of the Rail — Colonel Norcott's Misfortune — The Commissioners CONTENTS. V M'Neil and Tulloch— The Duke of Newcastle- General Markham — Ladies at the Seat of War — Visit Miss Nightingale — Effects of Spirits after Amputations — Installation of the Order of the Bath — -Sorties — Great Explosion at the Mamelon — The Rev. Mr. Cannon — The Siege recommended to be raised — Colonel Unett — The Long Range Balls in Camp — Mr. Russell, of the "Times" — The Russiaus case-mate their Batteries — The Naval Brigade Theatre. 149—174

Chapter VI

Indications of a Crisis — A ladder Bridge — The Russian Ships at last touched — Horrors of a besieged City — A hot Bombardment — Bridge across the Harbour — The British siege Train — The state of the Trenches — Occurrences on the 7th September — The eventful Sth September — Distribution of Dragoons and Highlanders — The Third Division — Reucontre with General Pelissier — The Cannonading dies away at noon — Appearance of the Redan — Stormmg of the Malakoff — Assistance rendered by British Artillery — Colonel Strange, R.A. — Assault on the Redan — Generals Codrington and Markham — The Stormers repulsed — The causes of this investigated — The Sappers — The Killed and Wounded — General Wyndham — The French repulsed — Great Slaughter — Arrangements to renew the attack on the Redan — Violent explosions — Sevastopol in Flames and Evacuated — Examination of the Russian Works— Anecdotes of Sailors — Reflections on the Fall of Sevastopol 175—216

Chapter VII

The Great Redan after the Assault — Danger from Magazines in Sevastopol — the Streets — The Creek Battery — The booty in the City — Story connected with Kazarski's Monument — The great Hospital and its horrors — The Queen's Message — Explore about Sevastopol — Anecdote of a French Drummer — Burning of the Steam Ships — Dangerous ground — United States' Commissioners — Prospects for the Winter — Road Making — CONTENTS. VI Turbaned Workmen — The Docks are mined — Drilling — Anecdote of a Scotch Captain — The Rats — Cavalry Review — Affairs as Eupatoria — Kcrtcli — The Naval Brigade broken up — Expedition to Kilburn — Reviews of the Sardinian Army and the British Artillery — Sir James Simpson leaves, and Sir William Codrington becomes Commander-in-Chief . . . 217 — 246

Chapter VIII

Inventory of the Stores found in Sevastopol — Trophies — A Startling Calamity — Losses sustained by a Great Explosion — Sufferings of the French from Cold — Races — War with the Raki sellers — The Sanitary Commission — Extraordinary Escape of One of the Commissioners — Steeple-chases — Dinner at Sir William Codrington's — Cold Huts — The Guards' and Engineers' Messes — Amateur Theatricals — Discovery of Antient Buildings — A sudden move to the Marine Heights — Grand Review — The Russians disposed to make Peace — Violent Death of an esteemed Friend — The white Flag at the Traktir Bridge — A Disaster on St. Patrick's Day — Peace — Remains on the Field of Inkermann — More Reviews and Athletic Games — Due respect shewn to the Dead — Visit to my old Prison— The Field of the Alma— Mangoup Kale — Laspi — The South Coast — Leave the Crimea for Malta — Arrive in England . 247 — 284 Appendix 285—310 THE LIFE OF A SOLDIER.

Chapter I

Sevastopol — Recollections of a former Visit to it — Distribution of the besieging Armies — The Right and Left Attacks — Good spirit of the Soldiers — Their Duties in the Trenches — The General's Hut there — Casualties in the Valley of Death — Imprudence of young Soldiers — Hardships and sufferings of the Siege in Winter — Soldier's Song — Trench Life in Summer — Commissary- General Filder, C.B.— Lieut. Donelly, R.E.— Death of Captain Maunsell — A Hot Place — The Sailors of the Naval Brigade — Incidents of Trench Work — Sergeant O'Grady — Facetious Soldiers and Sailors — Return to Camp. The household word, " Sevastopol," is attended with many strange, pleasing, and distressing recollections. " This fair and VOL. II. B false city," growing up from the small Tartar village of Aktiar, on the north side of a magnificent harhour, to the dimen sions of a metropolis, with handsome public buildings, ornamented with tower and spire, and massive columns, with wide streets of capacious houses, and with suburbs extend ing to the east and west like the wings of a spread-eagle, was first known to the writer several years ago, when Field-Marshal Diebitch was victorious at the Balcan, and Admiral Greig commanded in the Black Sea.

Several very agreeable excursions were made from Sevastopol in those days. The crypt town of Inkerman of the Tauri, who are said to have had human feasts, was examined ; the city of the rock, Tchufut- Kale of the Karaet Jews ; the fortress of Mangoup Kale of the Genoese ; the charm ing valley of Baidar ; the highly picturesque south coast was explored ; Kaffa, Simphero pol, and the Tartar city of Bakteserai were visited. The unpleasant recollections of Sevastopol were those of a long detention in quarantine after a voyage from the seat of war in a Russian frigate with the plague on board; of a confinement in the north fort, Severnaia, on suspicion of being an emissary of the government, after the un expected visit to the harbour by Captain Lyons with the frigate Blonde, and a forced journey to St. Petersburg in winter as a prisoner, though previously a volunteer with the army ; lastly, the bloodshed and loss of friends at the ever-memorable siege, and the long months spent on the bare, bleak, and dreary plateau of the Hera cleotic Chersonese.

During the siege, and after it, the British divisions were pitched in white rows of tents to the south of the city, and the French occupied ground to the right and left of the British, ravines intersecting the encampments, and becoming deeper as they approached the ramparts of Sevastopol, which were thickened with well-rammed earth, and bristled with thousands of cannon. b The British force was divided into the Right and the Left attacks. The Right attack had to deal with the great Redan chiefly, and the works to the right and left of it. The attention of the Left attack was chiefly occupied by the Garden battery, the Crow's Nest and Street batteries. How ever " a shell from the Redan !" was nearly as familiar, as a warning, to those engaged on the Left attack as to their brethren on the Right.

Every evening during the hot summer months and the autumn of 1855, till the fall of the place, did two bodies of trench guards, 2,300 and 1,500 strong, march down the centre ravine and the Valley of Death to relieve those on duty in the trenches the previous twenty-four hours. A general was daily on duty in the trenches of each attack, a colonel commanded the trench guards, and subordinate officers commanded detachments of the regiments of which they were composed. In the forenoon, the colonel got from the brigade-major the details of the guards, he then took the pleasure of the general as to their disposal in the trenches, or was allowed to make his own arrangements, if considered capable of doing so, and it was a very responsible task. He went in the evening to meet the guards at the place of rendezvous at the head of one of the ravines, saw them march off, and ac companied one of the detachments into the trenches.

The men were in forage caps, red coatees, cross-belts, and dark trousers; they carried, with the light and handy Enfield rifle and bayonet, sixty rounds of ball-cartridge, their great-coats and water barrels ; following them was a keg of rum, and last of all the stretchers — blood-stained — to carry the slain warrior to a hastily prepared grave in the trenches, or the wounded soldier back to his hospital in camp, after being treated at a sheltered place in the trenches. Though the men knew full well that some of those who went nightly down to the trenches in the pride and strength of manhood would never come back, or would be borne helpless and in pain to their camp, there to lose a precious limb, or to die after a lingering illness in hospital, yet they went down always gaily, full of " chaff," and talk, and joke, though some of a grim nature certainly ; and while marching down with parties, even singing and whistling as they went, it was distressing to think how transitory might be the joyousness of many of those fine fellows, and how their tune would be altered on the morrow ; but, as the song of the immortal Wolfe says — " Why, soldier, why Should we be melancholy boys ?

Why, soldier, why, Whose business 'tis to die ?" The place of rendezvous, Left attack, was in the hollow between Cathcart's Hill and the left picquet-house, where the detachments assembled, and where the colonel met them, called the officers about him, and gave them their instructions as to the dis posal of their parties in the trenches by night and by day, but ever varying as the trenches were advanced to the front, towards the Garden, Creek, and Barrack batteries. A careful commander would give instructions in writing to each leader of a party, so that there could be no mistake. There was a major, second in command, and an adjutant attended the colonel as his aide-de camp, and a bugler to carry his waterproof and havresack. Two doctors were also de tailed for duty for each attack — of those of the Left, one took up his position in a bomb-proof between the third and fourth parallels, the other at Green-hill, in the rear.

The Woronzoff road, that admirable ma cadamized highway, planned and executed by our enlightened quasi-foe, but real friend, the Count Woronzoff, carrying one into Se vastopol from the south coast through beautiful scenery, and terminating in a deep and battery-commanded ravine at the Kara belnaia surburb, was a point to be especially watched against sorties. A smart captain with a hundred men was usually selected to lie in this road, behind a small mound forming a rude traverse, whilst detached from the party, and in front, were a subaltern and thirty men to guard the chevaux de-frize of iron which ran across the road. The Woronzoff road was no quiet sleeping place. All night through, round shot or whistling grape might be expected up it, or a sortie from the Russian picquet-house near the termination of the road.

In the early morning, the party was withdrawn from the road, and retired by the right of the second parallel. Then between four and five hundred men would be told off for that position of excitement and of shells, the fourth parallel, and twelve double sentries in the fifth parallel, whilst others were thrown out to the edge of the ridge. Every officer and man was told off as at quarters on board ship. The men were posted behind those parts of the parapet over which they could fire easily, and not at those places where the banquette or step was not completed. It was hard and rocky ground to work on, the sound of the pick immediately drew fire, and little soil, and that painfully collected, was there to afford shelter. White stones and rocks in many places formed the parapet, soon to be dashed with blood.

The best mode of disposing of the advanced sentries, was found to be to distribute them along the parapet, first of all, in skirmish ing order, then to make them go over at once and take up their positions. They were thus more rapidly placed, and avoided observation, as they were not collected in groups and posted one after the other. Latterly, a subaltern remained out with the sentries, and a captain, as before, went round and occasionally visited them. The cemetery with its stone tombs and black crosses, low down and on the left of the fourth and fifth parallels, was a post of danger. About one hundred and fifty men lay in this by night, and were constantly liable to be stirred up with shell and vertical grape, though safe from round shot by reason of the terraces which crossed the ravine in rear of the cemetery.

On the left of the fourth parallel were caves or " ovens," in these lay fifty or more men to watch the enemy who might crawl up from the houses and gardens below. The cemetery party was almost all with drawn by day to the fourth parallel, where the major was posted to keep up, with about four hundred men, a fire at any of the enemy showing themselves in their works. The reserve was disposed to the right and left of the second parallel by night, and withdrawn into the caves overlooking the Valley of Death during the day. No men except gunners were latterly left in the third parallel, which became a mass of gun and mortar batteries, from whence and to which a constant storm of large and deadly missiles was kept up, over the heads and sometimes into the bodies of the occu pants of the fourth and fifth parallels.

Double sentries connected one part of the zigzags with the other, and communicated between those in the Woronzoff road and Cemetery. The colonel's place was usually by night in the fourth parallel, occasionally he moved about to see that all were on the alert, or he rested for a time at a traverse, or in the rifle-pit in the centre of the parallel, but always wide-awake, ready to start up and direct the men to meet a real or supposed sortie, of which there were several right up to, and over the advanced trenches. The colonel's position was sufficiently lively, when it was directed that a steady fire of rifles and musketry should be kept up all night by good shots from the advanced trenches, of both attacks, on the Redan and the works in rear and on the flanks of it, to prevent the enemy repairing the injury done to their works by the bombardment during the day — the artillery at night assisting the in fantry with fire-balls.

At early dawn the colonel left his post in advance, and went with his adjutant to the second parallel, where was the General's Hut occupied by the general of the trenches, who, if all was quiet, at five o'clock, usually returned to camp with his A.D.C., and the colonel took his place for some rest in the hut. The hut was a small chamber, con structed of sand-bags and covered with planks and earth. It was supposed to be bomb-proof, though a good-sized shell, falling plump on the roof, would probably have penetrated it — as it was, shot and shell struck the outside repeatedly, and men were killed all about it. It was a hot place for fire, and hot inside, in June, July and August, from the blazing sun. A table occupied the centre of the hut, and two narrow benches on two sides, where, on a watch-coat, a sort of uneasy sleep was attempted till the soldier-servant brought one's coffee, biscuit, and bit of meat from the camp.

I have some agreeable reminiscences of the General's Hut. Aster looking about in the morning to see that all was regular, and when not making my rounds at other times during the day, it was a pleasure to invite the junior officers, lying in the trenches near, to partake of the shade (hot though it was) of the hut, to eat their rations there, and talk about the progress of the siege. I made many esteemed acquaintances in the General's Hut. It was not always reached from the place of rendezvous for the trench guards without casualties. The Russians pitched shells and fired round shot at the reliefs coming down the Valley of Death, and some took effect. Two of the 68th lost limbs as they came down as part of the guards. On another occasion a round shot was noticed to be hurtling towards some hun dreds of the trench guards on the march down.

All threw themselves flat to avoid it except one man. He stood up, but in a moment he fell back a bloody and headless trunk, struck by the iron messenger. It was an ugly sight. One day, when I was in the trenches, a dozen of the Royal Irish, coming across, and exposed to firing, were struck by a shell ; some were slain outright, and seven amputations be sides were the result, whilst Major Harri son, 68th, riding over the iron-encumbered ground near Stony-hill, towards the first parallel, instead of keeping to the ravine, as he ought to have done, (but it was only his second trench, I believe), was knocked down, man and horse, by a round shot, and he died on the spot. The Valley of Death was appropriately named. Shallow at the top, near the camps, it becomes deep, narrow, and solemn, as it approaches the city.

Cliffs of shell limestone, with caves in them in many places, rise on either hand ; in the caves dwelt owls, which screeched at intervals during the long nights of vigil, and the stunning noise of pieces of artillery was accompanied with the plaintive cry of a bird, whose note resembled the noise of a shell in its passage through the air — " he heeo, he heeo." One night the moon had risen, and the ground was clearly seen between the first and second parallels from the Great Redan. A troop of ammunition mules was im prudently crossing this space, with noise and clamour of the Croatian drivers, to make a short cut to a trench magazine. I was watching the result as I entered the second parallel from the valley, when, with a loud " whish " and bright blaze, crash came two gun shells among them, scattering them in a moment.

The mules threw off their powder barrels, the drivers gathered up their baggy trousers and took to flight. More shells were then pitched among us in the trench. A stout fel low limped to the rear, struck with a fragment of shell, and leaning on his fire lock, and I passed a poor corporal, struck into a mangled heap in the first zig-zag leading to the third parallel. Young soldiers were imprudent on entering the trenches. It was difficult to prevent them making short cuts across open spots, and they invariably, if not checked, carried their arms on their shoulders, instead of trailing them out of sight, in moving through the parallels and zig-zags. The Russians were very particular in having their embrasures secured with mantelets of thick rope, and even the guns themselves had a circular mantelet of the same material ; so that they were fired with comparative safety, whilst the British embrasures were generally open.

Our people had not the facilities which a naval arsenal afforded the Russians, to make bullet-proof screens ; it was, therefore, dangerous to pass our embrasures for the stinging Minie bullet, or whirring fragments of shells. A big round shot would, of course, smash through any ordinary mantelet. Who of those " who live at home at ease" can fully understand the extreme misery and wretchedness of our soldiers, who nightly went down to the trenches in the winter months of 1854-55, on rations of salt meat and hard biscuit, inducing thirst and disease, plunging through mud, and arriving at their posts wet and weary, unable to lie down in the slush of the trench, and keeping a miserable vigil till dawn showed the pale, haggard, and mud be-grimed " Crimean heroes ?" Frost, snow, and rain then alternated.

If the trench guards sat down, they were perished with cold and wet : if they walked about, out of the trench and in rear, they exposed themselves to be shot, as the parapet was not sufficiently high to protect them. One night three poor fellows, over come with fatigue, went outside the parapet to sleep on a dry place, risking the Russian bullets — they were all three shot. Trench life was not a pastime, certainly, summer or winter, yet some officers really took an interest in it, and I heard that deservedly esteemed and gallant soldier, Sir John Campbell, rally a field officer VOL. II. C L, one day about his partiality for the fourth parallel. Shot and shell kept up the excitement, and this, with the labour of the pickaxe and shovel, tended to make the blood circulate; but it was wretched work altogether in these winter months.

Our gallant dragoons saw and testified what the infantry under went. No reward is too high for the men who passed through this fearful ordeal un complainingly. Sometimes they dropped by the way to or from the trenches never to rise again, their comrades not having sufficient strength to carry them home; or return ing to camp they would enter a damp tent of single canvas, and then sometimes hunt in vain for fuel to cook their slice of pork. But Russians and all suffered at this time, and the Czar allowed a month of the siege to count for a year's service. The mortality at this time, the winter of 1854 and 1855, was 35 per cent. There were gloom and anxiety both at home and at the seat of the Eastern campaign. Yet, strange to say, there were occasionally heard from a soldier's tent by night the strains of the now familiar air, " Cheer, Boys, Cheer !" to which these words are adapted : — " On, soldiers, on !

Once more the path of glory Opens its view before your longing eye. March, boldly march ! And add to Briton's story A page of valour that shall never, never die. France, gallant France ! Fights valiantly beside you, Shares in the toil and glory of the field. The bands of conquest firmly will unite you ; The foe, though daring, shall be forced to yield. (Chorus, with energy.) On! soldiers, on! Your banners proudly streaming ; On ! soldiers, on ! You battle for the right ; On ! soldiers, on ! Sword and bayonet gleaming ; On ! soldiers, on ! Till victory crown the fight. " On ! soldiers, on ! Our prayers, our hopes attend you ; c A nation's blessing cheers you on the way ; The mighty God of battles shall defend you ; Hearts deeply grateful will your toil repay. Weep for the slain who die our cause defending ; Hallow their names and hand them down to fame; Help the mourners on our aid depending, They who love their country will admit their claim.

Chorus — On ! soldiers, on !" In June, the nights were, of course, warm enough, and the men not on sentry lay down in the trenches, or sat dozing with their backs to the parapet in their red coatees, forage caps, and white belts — a rather dangerous and conspicuous dress, to go over the parapet of a clear moonlight night, whilst the vigilant Russians were lying in wait in the Woronzoff Road, and in rifle-pits of loose stones at the bottom of the hill, on which were traced our lines of the Left attack. The Russians in their long ra drab great-coats could hardly be seen at night till one got very close to them. In the hot summer months, the trenches were exhausting during the day, and the thirst was great. Some canvas screens, provided at first, were carried off to the camp by soldiers and sailors, and those men who followed suffered.

Firelocks were arranged here and there, and great-coats spread so as to afford partial shelter. But what with the heat, and the indifferent water, and sometimes stringy beef, (though the commissariat deserves the highest credit for indefatigable exertion to procure the best rations for the army), bowel complaint supervened after a twenty-four hours' trench. In Canada, Commissary-General Filder, C.B., was well known as a most zealous and untiring public officer, working inde fatigably himself, and making every one under him work also. Though he was careful of the public money, yet he was always desirous, and exerted himself to have the troops supplied with excellent rations, and I believe that in the East, under great difficulties, he fully bore out the character he had established after long Peninsular experience, and at the head of his department in the West.

He was selected for the Eastern expedition on account of his pre vious high reputation as a commissariat officer, but his health broke down in Balak lava the pestilent, where perished our old and much esteemed friend Admiral Edward Boxer, C.B., a man of unequalled zeal and activity in the service of his country. Colonels in command of the trench guards had their own several ways of doing their duty before retiring to the General's Hut by day. Perhaps, the better way was to wait in the second parallel till the old guards had passed out, and the men had taken their places in advance, than to go round by the zig-zags to the fourth and fifth parallels, seeing that all were properly posted, according to the previous written directions at the rendezvous; then passing by the right along the third parallel, and taking up a position on the left of it, or in the middle of the fourth parallel, where there had been an old rifle-pit, till it was time to go the rounds again, and see that the officers and non-commissioned officers were keeping the men on the alert against sorties, and alive to jump out of the way of shells.

On the left, between the fourth and fifth parallels, was, as I said, the cemetery where, on the 18th of June, Sir William Eyre, K.C.B. led his brigade, and was fortunate to have escaped with his life (though with the loss of 700 men) from a sort of pit of hell, a bowl into which the Russian batteries pitched shot, shell, and grape from the front and flanks. The gardens and houses partially protected our men. It was most fortunate they advanced no further than they did, after gaining possession of the cemetery (which was held to the fall of the city), for then that most formidable work, the Creek Battery, with its ship-guns, musketry, five lines of trous de loup, and mines, besides the cross fire from both flanks, would have caused double the amount of casualties. I here beg to record the gallantry and good judgment of Lieutenant Donelly, R.E. The night after the cemetery was gained by our troops, they retired for a time, after their great exertions, with their wounded to the rear, and ascended to the trenches above them.