An Expedition of Discovery into the Interior of Africa through the hitherto undescribed countries of the Great Namaquas, Boschmans and Hill Damaras, etc

Front matter

UNITMA MOUNTAINS. Publish^ -by-QnrA- ,-.,i hLr^y2z?ZLM2£*!£222£k2ZZll^ AN EXPEDITION (IF DISCOVERY INTO THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, THROUGH THE HITHERTO UNDESCRIBED COUNTRIES OF THE GREAT NAMAQUAS, BOSCHMANS, AND HILL DAMARAS. PERFORMED ®ntoer tfje auspices of 3|er .plajesty's Government-, AND THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY * AND CONDUCTED BY SIR JAMES EDWARD ALEXANDER, K.L.S. CAPTAIN IN THE BRITISH, LT. -COLONEL IN THE PORTUGUESE, SERVICE, F.R.G.S. AND R.A.S., ETC. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON : HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1838. PRINTED BV WILLIAM Ul f.COCKSON , ROLLS BUILDINGS, FETTER LANE. TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE LORD GLENELG, HER MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OF STATE FOR THE COLONIES, ETC. THESE VOLUMES ARE, BY PERMISSION, RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY HIS LORDSHIP'S MOST OBEDIENT AND VERY HUMBLE SERVANT, THE AUTHOR.

Introduction

. " Avia Pieridum peragro loca, nullius ante Trita solo * juvat integros accedere fontes, Atque haurire * juvatquenovos decerpere flores." In the beginning of the year 1834., the Author of the following pages had volun teered from the depot of the 42nd Royal Highlanders, in Scotland, to join the ser vice companies ofthe regiment abroad, and was accordingly proceeding to the Me diterranean, when he had the honour to receive an invitation from the Royal Geographical Society, to perform an Afri can Expedition of Discovery ; and, at the same time, he was recommended by that distinguished body to Government, as a fit person for conducting such an undertaking.

INTRODUCTION.

. VI His humble services in the field before enemies of his country not being then required — moreover, he having had previ ous experience in voyaging and travelling, — having always had a strong desire to attempt to discover some of the secrets of the great and mysterious continent of Africa, and feeling that he could not rest satisfied till he had broken new ground there, — he readily consented to explore and report on certain regions of East Africa, from Delagoa Bay westwards, with a view to the extension of geographical knowledge and commerce. In undertaking the conduct of an Afri can expedition, he was actuated by no hope of pecuniary gain. He was perfectly inde pendent in his circumstances ; and his only hope was, that if he performed an expedi tion which should prove successful, and which might tend to promote trade, to civilize the native tribes that might be visited, and to extend a knowledge of our holy religion,— his expenses would be

INTRODUCTION.

. VII defrayed, and he should receive, in common with all other expedition-officers, some honorary reward for his labours, and for his having consented to exchange, during a certain period, civilized for savage life. Having obtained leave of absence from the authorities at the Horse Guards, he proceeded at his own expense to Portugal, to collect information relating to Africa, and had an opportunity of being present with the contending parties in the field during the late civil war ; then, — recommended by the Admiralty to the care of Admiral Sir Patrick Campbell, — he sailed in the flag-ship Thalia, on a voyage of observation among the Colonies of Western Africa, and arrived at the Cape of Good Hope in the beginning of 1 835. It was now unexpectedly found that the whole of South Africa was in commotion ; that the Zoolas had risen on the Portuguese settlement at Delagoa, the ultimate desti nation of the author, and had slain the Governor and some of his people ; that

INTRODUCTION.

. some of the native tribes were carrying on a war of extermination against each other, and that the Amakosa Kaffers had sud denly burst into the eastern province of the Cape Colony, and were carrying fire and sword through it. It was evidently not the time for geographical research, and the Author, having a recommendation from Sir Herbert' Tay lor, his late Majesty's Private Secretary, for employment on the staff at the Cape, isan opportunity should offer for his serving in a military capacity there, was accord ingly placed by General Sir Benjamin D'Urban, the Governor and Commander in-chief, on the personal staff of his Excel lency, to whom he became an aid-de-camp and private secretary. After the conclusion of the Kaffer war, and when there seemed to be a lull in the interior, the Author prepared to carry the original purpose for which he had arrived in South Africa into effect, when Dr. A. Smith arrived at the Cape from an

INTRODUCTION.

. IX expedition to the north east, having passed over the ground behind Delagoa Bay, and having visited the Maquaina country, whi ther it was intended the Author should have gone. It became, therefore, necessary to change the original route. It is remarkable that during the three centuries and a half which have elapsed since the celebrated Portuguese navigator, Bartolomeo Diaz, first doubled the " Cape of Storms," the progress of discovery should have advanced so slowly, that up to this day, the whole of the western region of Southern Africa, has hitherto remained comparatively a blank in our maps. The Great Fish River, supposed to extend up wards of three hundred miles from north to south, and said to receive, both from the eastward and from the westward, more than twenty tributaries, was only indicated by a dotted line ; of the range and height of the mountains and elevated plains near it, no trace existed, and of their geological struc ture and general features, we were utterly ignorant. a

INTRODUCTION.

. X Gordon in 1777, Paterson in 1778, Le Vailant in 17S1, and Thompson in 1827, may have reached, in this direction, the southern bank of the Gariep, but, neither in the last nor present century, is it recorded, that any European traveller has crossed within four hundred miles of its mouth, to the northern bank of the Orange river.* But, where the spirit of geographical enter prise had not yet reached, a nobler spirit had directed the steps of other wanderers, and, for nearly a quarter of a century, a few missionaries had, from time to time, endeavoured to spread the truths of the Gospel in the district of the Orange river ; and one, the Rev. Mr. Schmelen, performed a journey of some extent, several years ago, through a part of Great Namaqua land. * Barrow in 1797, Truter and Somerville in 1801, Lichtenstein in 1805, Burchell in 1809, Campbell in 1813, Thompson in 1827, Hume in 1834, with several others, and lastly, Dr. Smith in 1835-36, have crossed the Orange river, but that was between 23° and 24° east longitude, near its mid-course, or upwards of 400 miles from its mouth. A Dutch colonist, also, W. Van Reenen, went some distance up the Great Fish River, but his account was never published.

INTRODUCTION.

. XI To penetrate further to the north, then, in this direction, and to endeavour to be come acquainted with the Damaras, a nation inhabiting between the 21st and 24th parallels, and only known to us by report, seemed to be now the chief object of geographical research, since the recent journey of Dr. Smith had rendered it need less to proceed with the Delagoa expedition. Accordingly, after mature delibera tion, with the authority of his Excellency Sir Benjamin D'Urban, and by the advice of those best qualified to give an opinion in the colony, the author determined to explore the country to the north of the Orange river, on the west coast, as the best means of promoting the great object for which he had left England, and carrying out the views of Her Majesty's Government, which contributed to his outfit, and of the Geographical Society, which has also ad vanced its funds to assist in covering the expenses of the undertaking. In these volumes there will be found a

INTRODUCTION.

. XII faithful account of an Expedition attended with many trials and troubles,— in which much huno-er and thirst were endured — intense heat and severe cold ; to all which the traveller in Africa must make up his mind, if he intends to pass a considerable distance beyond the bounds of civilization. Throughout, the narrative is interspersed with anecdotes illustrative of African man ners and of the chace, &c* and it is con fidently hoped, that those who honour this work with their perusal, will find in its details something that may not leave their curiosity ungratified. The etchings and wood cuts are selected from many drawings made during the journey, and are accurately outlined by the artists employed to engrave them. Like the maps of other travellers who have gone forth into the wilderness single- * The Appendix contains a Notice of the objects of Natural History collected during the expedition, an Itine rary, and copious Notes on the present state of the Colony of the Cape of Good Hope. •

INTRODUCTION.

. XIII handed, the author's has no pretensions to exactness, beyond that degree of it which was attainable with such instruments as he went provided with, and could use unassisted. It is, therefore, merely the result of a careful observation of his course during each day, and of the rate at which he moved, reckoning at three miles per hour the progress of a waggon drawn by bullocks, and at four, that of pack oxen. The daily tracks have been carefully examined by that able geographer, Mr. J. Arrowsmith, who has found but little discrepancy in the Author's distances in the interior, when compared with cer tain points laid down upon the coast by the marine surveyors ; so that it is reasonable to presume that his work is as correct as his means would allow of. Indeed, he very much doubts the possibility of much more being achieved with a greater dis play of instruments, where travelling has to be performed over a surface so rugged,

INTRODUCTION.

. XIV that no chronometer can be made to keep any thing like its rate, and where every other instrument is sure to be materially disqualified for use. Should more information be required on particular points than is given in these pages, the reader is requested to bear in mind what are the difficulties attendant upon African travelling ; the neces sity there was for making personally every arrangement for the march, and for the night's halt ; the trouble of procuring food, of dealing with the natives, of preventing drunkenness and quarrels among the people with whom the Author had to deal ; and the constant exertion required to keep all in good humour. These duties so far demanded his time and care, as to forbid his doing more than is here set forth — "Quod potuit perfecit:" — he did what he could, and he now offers the description of a route of nearly four thousand miles, accomplished in little

INTRODUCTION.

. XV more than a twelvemonth, and all of which, to the north of the Kamies, or Lion Moun tain, has never appeared in any former map of Southern Africa. J. E. A. London, August, 1838. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

Preparations for an Expedition of Discovery — My Attendants — Leave Cape Town — Travelling Dress — Beautiful appearance of the Country — Difficulties and Accidents — Different Modes of Travelling — Inhospitality at Malmsbury — Field Cornet De Toit — Losing one's way — The ready Cook — Misfortunes again — Anecdote of a Dutchman's Consequence — The Steenbok — Our Practice in Hunting — Life among the Boors — The Berg River — Mynheer Vandermerwe — Picquet Berg — Lang Vley — Uneasiness of the Farmers — Ride to Clanwilliam — Temperature — The Cedar Mountains — Description of them and of the Trees — Two Excursions to the Mountains — Boschman Caves — Boors' Habits — Murders — Return to Clanwilliam 1

Chapter II

Account of the Sub-district of Clan William — Its Extent and Capabilities — Objection of the Dutch to Merino CONTENTS. XVIII Sheep— Irish Settlers— Culture ofthe Vine — Number of Farms and Population — Wages — Villages — Roads —An extended Boundary proposed — Dutch Grants — A Military Post or Police Station recommended—Clan william ought to be a District by itself— The Reasons for this— Two great Wants for the Body and Soul— Resume our Journey — Dutch Hospitality — Uitkomst — Heere Logement — F. Vailant — Elephants — Ebenezer Mis sion Station — Inspect the Mouth of the Olifant River — Its Inundations — Moveable Field Table — Kalk Gat — South African Morning — Paddegat — Namaqua Par tridges — The Grease-pot — The glorious Liberty of the Bush and of the Road — Battle of the Bees— Zwaartdoorn River — Nieuwouds Field Station — Leopards and Bosch mans — An Accident — The Groene River — Attention to Travellers — Snakes — Sunrise among the Mountains — Little Namaquas — Arrive at Lily Fountain . . 30

Chapter III

The Mission Station of Lily Fountain described — View from the Kamiesberg — Life on the Mountain — An unpleasant Summons — Ascend the highest Peak of the Mountain — The Cupper — Wax-seated Visitors — Abuses — The Post — Collection of Taxes — Grasping Functionaries — Anti-Mac-a-dam notions — Travelling Maxims — Charity and "never mind the Clamour" — Kindness and Cruelty of the Boors towards the coloured Classes A Miscreant described — His rebellious Language and injustice—He flogs and brands his Herd— State of Religion among the Boors— Anecdote of " The Sheep and the Goats" — Easy bearing of "an injured Husband" — Trials of Strength— Cobus Bulle, the Brandy Boor— A Wife shot by her Husband— Halcyon Days CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter IV

Prepare to visit the Mouth of the Great Orange River — Leave Lily Fountain — Descend the Cardow Pass — Snake Doctors — Keerom — Discovery of a Seal Island, and of a new Bay — Probable Effects of this last Discovery — Boo. Wall Bay described — Arrive at the Komakas Mission Station — The Rev. Mr. Schmelen — Leave Komakas in a horse-waggon — Our Bivouac — Ukribip — Anecdotes — The Bights of the Natives set aside — Kama — Little Namaquas described— Their Dress, Arms, Food, &c Would it be advisable to include them in the Colony? — A Magistrate required for the Border — Why the Natives go to the Sea to trade — How the Whalers treat them — Jackal Puts — Doom Poort — Arrive at Aris on the Orange River 82 CHAPTEB V. Sketch of the Gariep, or Great Orange River — Its Beauty and Utility — Why White Men are likely soon to sojourn on its Banks — Abundance of Copper, Iron, Ebony, Gum, Bees'-wax, &c. is to be found there — Floods — Hippopotami — -Awkwardly situated — Alligators — The Author sits in Council at Aris — An Attempt at gross Imposition on native Credulity — Leave Aris for the Orange River Mouth — Immense Flocks of Wild Fowl — Game — The Mouth of the Biver — Can it be entered ? — A Boat Bay — Interesting Discovery of Copper — An Orange River Copper Company proposed — The String Gun — Leave Aris — Ostrich Chase — Habits of the Ostrich — Its Enemies — Ukribip — The Kowsie — Heat — The Secretary Bird — Komakas — Keerom — The Gemsbok — Lily Fountain — The Rev. Mr. Edwards and the Chief Abram — CONTENTS.

XX Mission School— Story of an Old Woman— Merinos- English Instruction for Native Children recommended— The Robber Stuurman— The " Shrikkelijk reis." . 106

Chapter VI

Leave Lily Fountain with a Caravan — Weeping and Wailing — Silver Fountain — Murder of the Missionary Trelfall described — Mr. Schmelen — The Copper Berg — Fountains failing — The Corn Mill — Bezondermeid — The Bev. Mr. Werner and his Privations— Three great Dangers in South African Travelling — Hills of Pandemonium — Ostrich Chase — Henkrees — Distances deceitful — The Silurus Gariepinus — Burchell the Traveller — Old Balli— The Blood Sickness— Tales of the Interior — A Dance — A Hard Night's Work — Ford of the Bustard, Orange River— Rev. Mr. Jackson and Abram the Chief — Why the latter desired to have a Missionary — A Lion Hunt — Sporting on the Orange River — Story of a Baboon — Namaquas dislike Fish — A Sea Fisher — My Horses — Notions on Naming — " Fight it out" — Honey Beer — The Escort dismissed — A False Alarm —Reach the Warm Bath 131

Chapter VII

Sketch of the Warm or Nisbett's Bath— Ablution becomes fashionable— Training Pack Oxen — Honey Legs — Spring boks — Extent of Knowledge among the Namaquas Diseases — Heije Eibib — Witchcraft — Anecdote — Na maqua Notion about the Sun — Story of the Moon — Sum mary of Namaqua Customs— Questions put to Old Men regarding the Occupations of the People The Choice of a Chief — The Missionaries, &c. A Lion Story — CONTENTS. XXI Sunday at the Bath — How to make a gun shoot straight — Saturday Night — Excursion to Elliot's Hill — Set out for Africaner's Kraal — Night Travelling — The White Lion — Kururu — The Great River — A Cow with a Walking Stick — Arrive at the Kraal — Birds Beturn Homewards — Nest of Republicans — A Christinas Dinner -—Arrive again at the Bath 158

Chapter VIII

New Year's Day at the Warm Bath — The Egyptian Vulture — Choubib the Interpreter — His Story and that of Old Balli — More of Namaqua Peculiarities — The Wild Animals found in their Country — The Disposition of the People — Their Huts — Abram's Country and People — His Neighbours — An Evening Sketch — Notions of Chastity — The Chief is displeased with the Missionary- Excursion to Twanos — Bough Riders— Prepare to leave the Bath — A Panic — Prosecute our Journey Northwards — Lose the Cattle — Good Fortune — Dubbee Knabees — Knabees — Kurekhas — A Lion Story — Cowardice of the Escort — Kanus — Leave the Waggon for the Robber Henrick's Place — Aribanees — The Caras Mountains — Kama- Kams — Send for the Robber — Singular Conference with Him and his Mother — Expected Skirmish— Wild Horses — Return to the Waggon . 185

Chapter IX

Divine Service — Dismiss the Bondelzwart Escort — An African Shower — Arrive at Chubeechees — More Fiddling and Dancing — Old Dirk — Damara Captives — Purchase a Shepherd — The Ladies of Peekham addressed — Open Shop — Double Disasters — The Fountain of the CONTENTS. Broken Liver— Reach the Lion River— Bad News — Prepare for a Skirmish — Nearly lose our Character — The Chief Kiusip arrives— An Alarmist— Story of the Burning Stick— The Beed Dance — Kisnip offers to escort me to the Sea — Cross the Kamop and Koohap — Reach the Great Fish River— Heat and Thirst — Fishing — Dangerous Passes — The Kbp Springer — Improvi dence of the Namaquas — Habunap — Filthy Habits of the Boschmans — Lose all the Oxen — Guinea Fowl Shooting — Recover the Cattle — The Camel-thorn Tree — Melancholy Musings — A Rally — Zebra Shooting — Fire, Water, Grass, Shade — Arrive at Bethany . 216

Chapter X

Sketch of the deserted Station of Bethany— How it came to be abandoned — A Skirmish — Cool Determination of a Namaqua — The Author is well received by the Tribe of Buys — Cross the Koanquip River — Arrive at Nanees — Jan Buys — A Word on Smoking — Beautiful Landscapes —The Lion and the Zebra— Wild Flesh— The Black Lion — Tuais — The 'Un'uma Mountains — Henrick the Hunter — His extraordinary Fleetness — Festival at Tuais — Offer of Marriage— A Tale of Jealousy— The Strength of the Expedition is increased — Alarm of a Lion — Leave Tuais — Another Conquest — Kili a new Fox — A Marriage Gift — Mount D'Urban— The Game of Hous— Henrick Buys gives a Sample of his Ability Following the Spoor — Bee Hunting— The Borders of Boschman land . . 249

Chapter XI

Difficulty of determining the Limits of Tribes in South Africa —First March in the Country of the Boschmans— Zebra CONTENTS. XXIII shooting — The young Gemsbok — Goats — Delicacy of the Lion — Anecdote — First Rencontre with the Boschmans — How they eat, creep on Game, frighten Lions, and make Fire — The Caravan en Route — Musquitoes — More Bosch mans — The Women described — A Discovery — What a Boschman likes best — Boschmans live by Lions — The Great Fountain — Delicacies — A disgraceful Occurrence — The Great Flat — The Huntop River — Frog Soup — How we commonly passed the night — A Storm — The Narop River — Locusts — Giraffes — The Mirage — The Bull's Mouth Pass — A grand Hunt — Author is charged by two Rhinoceroses ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. 1. 'Un'uma Mountains . . . Frontispiece 2. Map of the Author's Route . .

Page 1 3. Horned Snake 57 4. 'Aris, Orange River 82 5. Nest of Republican Birds . . . .158 C. Henrick the Hunter 249 7. Bull's Mouth Pass 275 VOL. II. 8. 'Tans Mountain, Damara land . . Frontispiece 9. Expedition in distress 29 10. 'Naras Fruit 52 11. Poisonous Cameleon 105 12. Damara Warrior 131 13. Boschman disguised as an Ostrich . . . 156 14. Victoria Mountains 180 15. Group of new and rare Birds . . Appendix EXPEDITION OF DISCOVERY, etc.

Chapter I

Preparations for an Expedition of Discovery — My Attendants — Leave Cape Town — Travelling Dress — Beautiful appearance of the Country — Difficulties and Accidents — Different Modes of Travelling — Inhospitality at Malmsbury — Field-cornet De Toit — Losing one's way — The ready Cook — Misfortunes again — Anecdote of a Dutchman's Consequence — The Steenbok — Our Practice in Hunting — Life among the Boors — The Berg River — Mynheer Vandermerwe — Picquet Berg — Lang Vley — Uneasiness of the Farmers — Ride to Clanwilliam — Temperature — The Cedar Mountains — Description of them and of the Trees — Two Excursions to the Mountains — Boschman Caves — Boors' Habits — Murders — Beturn to Clanwilliam. At Cape Town, I employed the month of August, 1 836, in making my preparations for an expedition of discovery into the interior of South Africa, calculating that I should be absent at least twelve months from civilized society.

VOL. I. B PREPARATIONS I bought an excellent waggon, complete, with a tilt, fore and after chests, side cases, water kegs, yokes, &c, for 60/. ; and a span of hand some black and white oxen for 40/. I did not expect to be able to take the waggon far beyond the Orange river ; but when I thought I should be obliged to leave it hoped that I might then have a sufficient number of pack oxen to carry me on. Accordingly, I had seven pack-saddles and fourteen black leather packing cases made, to convey the necessary stores for our further progress after leaving the waggon. These cost the large sum of 90/.; for materials and work manship are expensive at the Cape. Besides the saddles and cases, which took up little room, the waggon was freighted with the following articles : First, for offence and defence, three double-barrelled guns, four fusees, and three rifles, complete, with bayonets and swords; three pair of pistols, three boarding pikes, seven rockets, one hundred pounds of canister <nin powder, and a proportionate quantity of lead and pewter ; two hundred flints, bullet moulds, bags of shot, powder horns, shot belts, and six FOR DEPARTURE. hundred rounds of ball cartridge, for a stand, in case of being attacked.

Next, for bartering with the natives for food, there were saws, hatchets, files, brass wire, knives, tinder-boxes, needles, beads, buttons, cotton shirts, shawls, handkerchiefs, red caps, and one hundred and fifty pounds of tobacco, which last procures assistance and food, when all else fails to move the natives of South Africa. The private stores, consisted of axes, spades, pickaxes, nails, spare yokes, and tar for the waggon ; some rice, biscuit, salt, tea, and coffee ; a medicine chest, clothes, stationery, books of geo graphy and natural history ; musical instruments, as a violin, tambourine, Pan's pipes, &c. to keep my own people " alive," and the natives in good humour. Lastly, my instruments, furnished by Govern ment, were a pocket sextant, small azimuth com passes, barometer, thermometers, artificial hori zons of coloured glass and quicksilver, an Ad miralty chronometer by Arnold, and a small air pump for extracting poison.

I did not invite any one to be my companion b2 ATTENDANTS in the wilderness; for after an experience of fifteen years of voyages and travels, I found that one always moves with greater ease, and infinitely more at liberty, without a companion ; and that one is more induced to associate with, and to collect information from, the natives of the countries one traverses, when wanting an as sociate on the road : though, to counterbalance all this, there are times and seasons when the soul requires communing with a friend, whose ear may be ready to listen to one's complaints ; whose voice may cheer, and whose counsel may direct. For a medical adviser I have fortunately had no occasion for many a long year. A con sort I hoped to obtain if I returned alive and well! From all I learned at the Cape, it was not advisable to traverse the interior with native attendants only : they might combine, for evil, against their master ; they might prove indolent and cowardly ; an admixture of Europeans was necessary; and my party, therefore, consisted of the following men : — 1.

Charles Taylor, an Englishman, in charge ON THE JOURNEY. of the stores, and skilled in preserving objects of natural history. 2. Robert Repp, an Englishman, in charge of the cattle. 3. John Elliot, an Irishman, private, 27th Enniskillen regiment, in charge of the arms. 4. Antonio J. Perreira, my Portuguese servant. 5. Magasee, a Bengalee, who had been a slave in the Cape colony, and who had also lived eighteen years with the Caffers. 6. Henrick, the waggon driver, a powerful young man of the mixed South African race, or a " Bastaard," as the local term is. 7. Wilhelm, the waggon leader, also a stout Bastaard. My people were bound to me for a year ; and the highest wages were 31. each per month, with food and clothes. It is not always easy, on any terms, to induce men to embark in an under taking such as I now contemplated.

I found that I had not a man more than 1 positively re quired. Henrick's wife, Metjie, entreated to be allowed DEPARTURE to accompany him to the limits of the colony, which she was allowed to do, proving useful as a cook and washerwoman. My preparations being completed after a month's hard work, and the expenditure of more than the government allowance (300/.) for the outfit of the expedition at the Cape, on the evening of the 8th of September, the waggon rolled quietly through the clean and tree-lined streets of Cape Town, passed between the mighty wall of Table Mountain and the castle on the shores of Table Bay ; and as it passed the for tress, a gentle shower of rain fell, and the even ing gun fired a parting salute. The waggon waited for me at Laubser's farm, beyond the Salt river; and on the 10th of Sep tember I left Government House, probably for the last time, and a chief, Sir Benjamin D' Urban, to whom I had been long and warmly attached.

After breakfasting at the Royal Observatory, and partaking of a stirrup cup, I was honourably escorted thence for some miles by Sir John Herschel, Major Michell, K. H., the Surveyor General (now my father-in-law,) Dr. Murray, FROM CAPE TOWN. principal medical officer, Mr. Maclear, astrono mer royal, Mr. George Thompson, the South African traveller, and Mr. J. Wingate, a school fellow and esteemed friend. I parted from these gentlemen (for all of whom I entertained a high regard) with slight hope of ever seeing any of them again; but resolved to penetrate as far as my strength and means permitted me to do, anticipating many strange adventures ; trusting to be of some service to my country and to the aborigines of Africa, and relying with humble confidence on a Provi dence by whom I had been hitherto mercifully and strangely preserved.

I left the sand flats and ridges of the bay, and with my half wild follower, Magasee, trotted over grassy plains, passed some cultivation, and joined the waggon at its outspan. I found my people in good spirits, and pro fessing to be rejoiced to have escaped from the confinement and dissipation of Cape Town ; than which few places are more destructive to the lower classes, from the cheapness of wine and brandy. The men were dressed in blue APPEARANCE OF COUNTRY. smock frocks, over a cotton shirt, and leather trowsers; field shoes, or a sort of buskin, of un tanned leather, and grey broad-brimmed and round-crowned hats, which, when we got farther on, were surmounted with ostrich feathers, as a protection from the sun. This costume, with belts and arms, gave them rather a picturesque appearance.

I was myself equipped in a similar manner, dispensing with the luxuries of stock, gloves, and socks, which are unsuited for rough work. We inspanned, crossed the Mosselbank river, and passed on beyond Captain Proctor's farm. There was nothing of the desert in the appear ance of the country at this season of the year, nor of aridity or barrenness observable ; the face of nature being covered with a broad carpet of dark green, on which were patches of the most brilliant wild flowers. Cultivation was confined to the immediate neighbourhood of the farm houses. On our right, the snow-capped peaks of the Drakenstein mountains, rising two or three thousand feet above the plains, formed a most agreeable picture. The Cape lark rose ACCIDENTS ON ROAD. near us, perpendicularly, on whirring wing, to the height of about thirty feet, gently descending with a prolonged whistle ; and all around us wore a delightful aspect of light and liberty.