Letters from Spain in 1856 and 1857

Introduction

. It is familiar to every one who has travelled in Spain, or read books on Spanish travel (and who has not read Ford's ' Gatherings ' ?), that, when a wayfaring ca ballero alights at a Spanish country inn and inquires what is to be had for dinner, the reply is always " Hay de todo " (there is everything). It is equally well known that when the caballero begins to specify what victual, out of all that nature and science furnish, he would choose for his meal, the answer most commonly is " No hay " (there is none). No fish, no soup, no fowls (except perhaps live ones), no cutlets : a " negative catalogue," as Johnson expresses it, rivalling the Doctor's celebrated bill of fare at Glenelg. Neverthe less, if the traveller will resign himself, and with a cheerful spirit accept lo que bay (what there is), he may possibly find, in the arroz or tortilla which at last comes upon his table, something which he can eat with more zest than he expected, and sleep upon without indigestion. Presuming that the reader knows these things, his a

INTRODUCTION.

. IV present undeserving entertainer salutes him with the posadero phrase which has become almost proverbial, to prevent his feeling surprise if, in a book pretending to describe Spain, he finds no history, no statistics, no geology, no antiquarian researches, no political specu lations. As the words, when truly construed, imply, he is asked to receive indulgently what his host can set before him ; and if he finds anything in it which encourages appetite and satisfies taste, refrain awhile from thinking of the more nutritious food that might have been produced at a better establishment. One advantage at least he has over the traveller ; that, if utterly disappointed, he may take up another book : the caballero is more than commonly fortunate if he can find another roadside posada. The following pages are a transcript of letters addressed by the author to his wife during two short vacations passed in travelling through part of Spain, in the interval of very different occupations.

They were written, as his habit has been on similar occa sions, for domestic perusal, and the entertainment of some few intimate friends. For his now ven turing to make them public he might allege the ordinary excuse of persuasion by flatterers ; but it has always appeared to him that, where such urgencies are imprudently yielded to, the real betrayer

INTRODUCTION.

. V is "a treacherous inclination:" for, if any discreet gentleman had in his charge the manuscript of another person, and thought as poorly of it as literary men profess to think of their own works, importunity alone, though from his dearest friends, would hardly induce him to publish it. The only apology which the author can seriously make for adding one to the multitude of slight books on Spain is, that, having some practice in this kind of writing, and habits of labour to which the exercise was congenial, he has been able, in the daily course of travelling, to fix while they were recent, and to throw promptly into narrative and description, the impressions made upon his mind by new scenes and new manners, in a land teeming with beauty and still rich in originality : the images have been given before they were obscured by time, or confused with ideas subse quently acquired : and if this has been done with apparent truth and with some freshness of effect, the work may have a feature which will entitle it to be looked at among the crowd.

To preserve this characteristic, and not from blind ness to faults, he presents the letters as they were written at the times of which they bear date. Much, of course, is omitted ; but in other respects hardly any alteration has been made, except to reunite the context

INTRODUCTION.

. VI where sentences have been struck out, or to correct mere mistakes or repetitions. If anything has appeared worth adding from recollection, or from the few memoranda he has kept, it has been thought better to subjoin a note than to alter the original text, except in some trifling instances, where the addition was too slight for a separate paragraph. The reader, therefore, has, with little exception, the gossip of each day as it was set down ; superficial, indeed, and sometimes perhaps inaccurate, but presenting occurrences faith fully as they appeared to the writer, and deriving no ornament from the imagination. Such a work cannot pretend to high literary merit, but, if it contains any better material than the once celebrated Spanish tour of the last century which related " how Richard strayed from post to post, What towns he dined in, and what bridges crossed ; How many eagles by the way were seen ; How many asses grazed along the green,''* it may occupy an hour or two not quite unprofitably ; it may do some service in chronicling the changes which even Spain undergoes from year to year ; and, at any rate, it may be usefully taken into council by those who are projecting a Spanish journey. * Heroic Epistle from Doiia Teresa Pinna y Euiz, of Murcia, to Bichard Twiss, Esq., F.R.S. : London, 1777.

INTRODUCTION.

. VII The author has been anxious to avoid any undue licence in the mention of persons with whom his travels brought him into association. In many instances a blank or initial is substituted for the name appearing in the original letter ; and that reserve has been departed from only where the person, by his station or otherwise, was so fully in the public view already that an allusion to him by name could hardly be deemed obtrusive ; or where he was, locally, so far removed from any society in which this book is likely to circulate, that the direct mention of him would probably never come to his know ledge, or at all events would not draw upon him any irksome notice. The reader shall not be detained by any further parley. Swift wrote to Gay, on purchasing his Beggar's Opera, " I find there is neither dedication nor preface, both which wants I approve : it is in the grand gout."* Great men may present themselves thus uncere moniously ; smaller ones are less sure of their welcome, and may wisely use more form.

The present author has knocked at the reader's library door and given a word of explanation : and, having done so, he proceeds to deliver his packet. * Letter to Gay (November 27th, 1727), in Bowles's edition of Pope's Works, vol. ix. p. 107. CONTENTS.- Introduction Page iii

Letter II

The voyage — Spithead fleet — The Needles and Isle of Wight — Dorsetshire coast — Life on board the Madrid — Spanish coast — The Cies — Vigo Bay — Visit from the Company's agent — Merchant-women — Galician costume — Changirg money — Oporto — The Gallegos — Sail up the Tagus — Ramble in Lisbon — Landing at Cadiz — The hotel — Morning on the Alameda — The Cathedral — Loss of the Madrid in 1857 — Fielding's voyage to Lisbon — Cadiz at first view 2

Letter III

The fish-market — A gentleman's house in Cadiz — An evening party — The weather — Walk of the Andalusian women — Theatre — El Si de las Ninas — The saincte — Murillo's paintings — Watch-towers — Geneial view of Cadiz — Costume — - Spanish puffing — The guide 25

Letter IV

Hospitality — Mrs. Bianco's flaons — Don Juan Tenorio — Xerez — Wine-stores — The Cartuja — Pictures — Roderick's last battle-field — The manta — Tea-party — April weather — Zorrilla — Calderon's ' Magico Prodigioso ' — Calderon and Lovelace CONTENTS. X

Letter V

Evenings at Dona C's — Venta de Vejer — The landlady's misfortunes — Journey from Cadiz — Isle of Leon — San Fernando — Chiclana — The roads — Vejer — Journey to Tarifa — A carbineer — Venta of Taibilla — The sea-shore — Africa — Lodging at Tarifa — The town — Female costume — Supper at the venta — The fort — Scenery — Road-mending in Spain — ■ View of Gibraltar — Algeciras — Gibraltar Page 48

Letter VI

Gibraltar — The inhabitants — The Alameda — Evening military parade — English greetings — The horses — Mozo — Europa Point — Trees, flowers, and scenery — Some wants at Gibraltar — The Heights— The Galleries— St. Michael's Cave— O'Hara's Tower — Cathedral and chapel — Watching for arrivals . . 66

Letter VII

Gibraltar not Spain — Catalan Bay — A Spanish ' King John ' — The magistrate and clergy — Scenery and sea prospects — Vegetation — Spanish proverb — Arrival of French steamer — Rosia — Captain Grey's garden — The Bustler .. .. 81

Letter VIII

Embark for Tangier — The voyage — Landing — An illegal entrance — Encampment of pilgrims — Mrs. Ash ton's hotel — The town and people — Camels — Visit to the English consul — A Jew's residence — The Alcazar — The Pasha and his son — Douceurs — The prison — The Pasha's horses — A Moorish woman — Garden out of town — Visit from the Cadi — -An evening ramble — Superstitions — Visit to a Jew's on the Sabbath — Jewish lady full-dressed — Gardens — Excursionists by the Bustler — A Malaga waitress — Dance of slaves — Return to Gibraltar CONTENTS. XI

Letter IX

Return to Gibraltar — Journey to Ronda — St. Roque — Appearance of the country — The Guadiaro — A venta and its family — Gaucin — Clapping hands — The posada — The prospects and the roads — Ronda — Situation and description of the town — The hotel — Questions to travellers — Ronda compared with Tivoli — Cuevas del Becerro — The venta — Travelling party — Castle of Teba — Campillos — Antequera — Road to Malaga — Malaga — Party at the hotel — The town Page 112

Letter X

Journey to Velez-Malaga and Alhama — Bull-fight — Circus of Malaga — The matador Cuchares — Slaughter of horses — Character of the bulls — Disturbance at the close of the spectacle — Visit to the cathedral of Malaga — Another bull-fight 139

Letter XI

Another bull-fight — Turbulent dispositions in the towns — Quarters at Velez-Malaga — Travellers' fellowship — Journey continued — • The knifegrinder — Loja lead-mines — Snowy mountains — Alhama — The inn — Baths — Granada — " Ay de mi Alhama " — The Alhanfbra — Torre de la Vela — Granada by moonlight — Festival night — Dance in the posada — The Vivarrambla illuminated — Procession of the Corpus Christi — Generalise — Departures 154

Letter XII

Granada — The Alhambra — Generalise — The dog of the Alhambra — Zubia — Ro*bbery of the malleposte — Tomb of Ferdinand and Isabella — Memorials of King Boabdil — Los Martires — Scenery of Granada — The fair — Gipsies — The Albaycin — School in a rock-cave — Churches — Gonsalvo de Cordova — Calle de las Tablas — Zacatin — Suburb walks — San Nicolas — A politician — Dancing and the castanet — Efforts of government to preserve archives CONTENTS.

Letter XIII

Detention at Baylen Page 186 Letter XII. Continued 187

Letter XIV

Seville — Portela's departure — Granada — Breakfast company at the cafe — The guide Ximenez — Diligence journey to Baylen — Spanish coaching — View of Jaen — Arrival at Baylen 202

Letter XV

Baylen — The battle-field — Andujar — Robbers and patrol — Travelling precaution — Aldea del Rio — Bacallao — Sierra Morena — Pedroabad — Carpio — Alcolea — Cordova — The cathedral — Site of Abderrahman's palace — Ascent of the Sierra — Recluses — Interesting objects in the town — Diligence journey to Seville — Ecija — Carmona — Arrival at Seville — Cathedral — Notes on the Moorish palace near Cordova, and on robbery in Spain 209

Letter XVI

Approach of summer — Seville in curtains — Tlie cathedral and Giralda — Zurbaran and Murillo — La Sangre — Figaro's house — Alcazar — House of Pilate — Lonja — Amateur felonies — Caridad — Due de Montpensier — University Cathedral library — Bailly the cicerone — Introductions in Seville — Spanish and gipsy dances — Bull-fight — Dominguez — Italian opera — Promenades and patios — Visit to Italica — Capilla de los Reyes — Tobacco manufactory . . 239

Letter XVII

Arrival in England CONTENTS. XIII

Letter XVIII

( A LETTER TO THE READER. ) Fate of toreros — Bull-fighting — English censures upon it — Its effect on popular character — Triana — River walk under walls of Seville — New Plaza — Zurbaran and Murillos at the Museum — Remark on pictures of the Virgin Mary — The Caridad — La Sed — San Juan de Dios — Murillo's house — Supposed Zurbaran at the University — Seville students — Steam voyage from Seville to Cadiz — Cadiz in June — Lampoon on Espartero. Voyage to England — Cape St. Vincent — Lisbon — Cintra — M. Barbes — ■ Signalling the Madrid for news — Vigo — Pratique — Crossing Bay of Biscay — Ushant — The Channel — Southampton .. Page 261

Letter XIX

The Landes — Spanish frontier — The Bidassoa and Isle of Pheasants — Fuenterabia — San Marcial — Boy guide — Diligence journey to San Sebastian — Fonda de Beraza — Fortress and town of San Sebastian — Scene of the attack in 1813 — Military mass 295

Letter XX

Great square of Pamplona — Cathedral and cloister — San Sebastian — Alameda — Casa de Misericordia — Dance in the market-place — Theatre — Calesa travelling — Valley of the Bidassoa — Vera — Valley of Bastan — Elizondo — Smuggling — Prospect of France from the Puerto de Maya — A veteran of Cabrera's wars 306

Letter XXI

Wedding supper at Pamplona — Throwing beans — Journey to Pamplona from Elizondo — Bridge of Sorauren — City of '- Pamplona — The great square — Walk round the ramparts — CONTENTS. Cathedral — Roman antiquities — Alameda — Equestrian performances — Opera — Landlord and family at the sonda — New police at Zaragoza — Journey from Pamplona — Canal of Aragon — Moncayo mountain — Don Quixote — Site of the Duke's palace — Zaragoza Page 318

Letter XXII

Zaragoza — The Portilla gate — The heroine Agustina — Cathedrals — Virgen del Pilar — Kissing the pillar — Church treasures 334

Letter XXIII

Zaragoza — Ruins of Sta. Engracia — New walks — The Coso — Scenes of the two sieges — The town and country people — Costume — Walks under the town walls — The streets and houses — Cathedral of the Seu — The leaning tower — Application for the key — A Mayor's siesta — View from the tower — Night journey to Huesca — Scenery of the town and suburbs — Salto de Roldan — Churches and La Campana — An Aragonese gentleman — Departure for Jaca — Mountain venta 340

Letter XXIV

Journey from Huesca to Jaca — Oroel mountain — City of Jaca — Posada del Catalan — Journey to San Juan de la PeSa — Scenery — The modern convent — Voto the hermit — The ancient cloister — Chapel of the hermitage — Pantheon of the Kings — Jaca canons — Santa Cruz — A Cura's house and housekeeper — Chronicles of San. Juan de la Pena — Spanish manners and language 356

Letter XXV

Pass of Jaca — Posada of Canfranc — Tea in the Pyrenees Head of the pass — First view of France — Fellow travellers — Urdos — - Gardener's house — Journey to Bedous Douane CONTENTS. XV

Letter XXVI

Ascent of the Marcadaou Pass from Cauterets — Spaniards crossing the border — View into Spain — Pyrenean woods — — Lodging-house at Torla — Venta de Bujaruelo — Cirque de Gavarnie — French sportsmen — The izzard — Pass of Bujaruelo — ■ Frontier regulations Page 384

Letter XXVII

Scenery of Bujaruelo — A caibineer — Journey to Torla — Grand scenery — Torla — The Casa Biou — Return to Bujaruelo — A weather wizard — Cirque of Gavarnie — Pyrenean guides — Smuggling 396