10 (part 2 of 2)

10 (part 2 of 2)

[1232] No account of Limerick lace would be complete which does not make some reference to the work of the Sisters of Mercy at Kinsale, Co. Cork, where so much is now being done to revive those industries which were originally started with the object of coping with the famine of 1846. This revival is largely due to Mr. A. S. Cole, who originally suggested the establishment of an art class in connection with South Kensington, with Mr. Brennar, of the Cork School of Art, as its master. The studio is in connection with the workroom, which secures constant touch between the designing, alteration, and adaptation of patterns and their execution. (Pall Mall Gazette, May 8th, 1897.)

[1233] Various schools have been established throughout Ireland. Lady de Vere taught the mistress of a school on her own demesne at Curragh, Co. Limerick, the art of making application flowers, giving her own Brussels lace as patterns. The work was so good as soon to command a high price, and the late Queen of the Belgians actually purchased a dress of it at Harding's, and took it back with her to Brussels, The fabric is known by the name of "Irish" or "Curragh point."

The school set up at Belfast by the late Jane Clarke exhibited in 1851 beautiful imitations of the old Spanish and Italian points; amongst others a specimen of the fine raised Venetian point, which can scarcely be distinguished from the original. It is now in the Vict. and Albert Museum (1869).

[1234] From the tradition that a Jesuit procured the first Venetian lace pattern used in Ireland.

[1235] It was in the famine period that the Rector of Headford, Co. Galway, brought about a revival of the pillow lace, which was known to a few women in the county--taught, according to the tradition, by a soldier from foreign parts at some unknown date. This work is now reviving, thanks to the energetic care of Mrs. Dawson.

[1236] Mr. A. S. Cole gives the following classification of Irish laces:--

There are seven sorts of Irish lace.

1. Flat needle-point lace.

2. Raised needle-point lace.

3. Embroidery on net, either darning or chain-stitch.

4. Cut cambric or linen work in the style of guipure or appliqué lace.

5. Drawn thread-work in the style of Reticella, and Italian cut points.

6. Pillow lace in imitation of Devon lace.

7. Crochet.

[1237] History of Machine-Wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture. W. Felkin. London, 1867.

[1238] See GERMANY.

[1239] An open stitch on stockings, called the "Derby rib," had been invented by Jedediah Strutt, in 1758.

[1240] By Rev. William Lee, of Calverton (Nottinghamshire). The romantic story is well known; but whether actuated, as usually stated, by pique at the absorbing attention paid to her knitting by a lady, when he was urging his suit--or, as others more amiably affirm, by a desire to lighten the labour of his wife, who was obliged to contribute to their joint support by knitting stockings--certain it is that it was he who first conceived the idea of the stocking-frame, and completed it about 1589. His invention met with no support from Queen Elizabeth, so Lee went to France, where he was well received by Henry IV.; but the same year Henry was assassinated, and the Regent withdrawing her protection, Lee died of grief and disappointment. The arms of the Framework Knitters' Company (Fig. 162) are a stocking-frame, having for supporters William Lee in full canonicals and a female holding in her hand thread and a knitting-needle. After Lee's death his brother returned to England, where Lee's invention was then appreciated. Stocking-making became the fashion, everyone tried, it, and people had their portraits taken with gold and silver needles suspended round their necks.

[1241] Vandyke had also appended the chain to his stocking-frame, and the zigzags formed by the ribs of his stockings were called "Vandyke," hence the term now generally applied to all indented edges.

[1242] Mechlin net was disused in 1819 from its too great elasticity.

[1243] The "bobbins" on which the thread is wound for the weft consist of two circular copper plates riveted together, and fixed upon a small carriage or frame which moves backwards and forwards like a weaver's shuttle.

[1244] The Old Loughboro' employed sixty movements to form one mesh--a result now obtained by twelve. It produced 1,000 meshes a minute--then thought a wonderful achievement, as by the pillow only five or six can be obtained. A good circular machine now produces 30,000 in the same time.

The quality of bobbin net depends upon the smallness of the meshes, their equality in size, and the regularity of the hexagons.

[1245] Bobbin net is measured by the "rack," which consists of 240 meshes. This mode of counting was adopted to avoid the frequent disagreements about measure which arose between the master and the workmen in consequence of the elasticity of the net. The exchange of linen to cotton thread was the source of great regret to the Roman Catholic clergy, who by ecclesiastical law can only wear albs of flax.

[1246] This association was formed by Ludlam, or General Ludd, as he was called, a stocking-frame worker at Nottingham in 1811, when prices had fallen. The Luddites, their faces covered with a black veil, armed with swords and pistols, paraded the streets at night, entered the workshops, and broke the machines with hammers. A thousand machines were thus destroyed. Soon the net-workers joined them and made a similar destruction of the bobbin net machines. Although many were punished, it was only with the return of work that the society disappeared in 1817.

[1247] Heathcoat represented Tiverton from 1834 to 1859, colleague of Lord Palmerston.

Steam power was first introduced by Mr. J. Lindley in 1815-16, but did not come into active operation till 1820; it became general 1822-23.

[1248] McCulloch.

[1249] The most extraordinary changes took place in the price of the finished articles. Lace which was sold by Heathcoat for 5 guineas a yard soon after the taking out of his patent can now be equalled at eighteenpence a yard; quillings, as made by a newly-constructed machine in 1810, and sold at 4s. 6d., can now be equalled and excelled at 1½d. a yard; while a certain width of net which brought £17 per piece 20 years ago is now sold for 7s. (1843). Progressive value of a square yard of plain cotton bobbin net:

£ s. s. d. 1809 5 0 1830 2 0 1813 2 0 1833 1 4 1815 1 10 1836 0 10 1818 1 0 1842 0 6 1821 0 12 1850 0 4 1824 0 8 1856 0 3 1827 0 4 1862 0 3

Histoire du Tulle et des Dentelles mécaniques en Angleterre et en France, par S. Ferguson fils. Paris, 1862.

"Bobbin net and lace are cleaned from the loose fibres of the cotton by the ingenious process of gassing, as it is called, invented by the late Mr. Samuel Hall, of Nottingham. A flame of gas is drawn through the lace by means of a vacuum above. The sheet of lace passes to the flame opaque and obscured by loose fibre, and issues from it bright and clear, not to be distinguished from lace made of the purest linen thread, and perfectly uninjured by the flame."--Journal of the Society of Arts. Jan., 1864.

[1250] In 1826 Mr. Huskisson's reduction of the duty on French tulle caused so much distress in Leicester and Nottingham, that ladies were desired to wear only English tulle at court; and in 1831 Queen Adelaide appeared at one of her balls in a dress of English silk net.

[1251] John Hindres, in 1656, first established a stocking-frame in France.

[1252] The net produced was called "Tulle simple et double de Lyon et de Vienne." The net was single loops, hence the name of "single press," given to these primitive frames.

[1253] In 1801 George Armitage took a "point net" machine to Antwerp, and made several after the same model, thus introducing the manufacture into Belgium. He next went to Paris, but the wholesale contraband trade of Hayne left him no hope of success. He afterwards went to Prussia to set up net and stocking machines. At the age of eighty-two he started for Australia, where he died, in 1857, aged eighty-nine.

[1254] The great difficulty encountered by the French manufacturers consisted in the cotton. France did not furnish cotton higher than No. 70; the English ranges from 160 to 200. The prohibition of English cotton obliged them to obtain it by smuggling until 1834, when it was admitted on paying a duty. Now they make their own, and are able to rival Nottingham in the prices of their productions. A great number of Nottingham lace-makers have emigrated to Calais.

[1255] The Caen blond first suggested the idea.

[1256] The first net frame was set up at Brussels in 1801. Others followed at Termonde, 1817; Ghent, 1828; Sainte Fosse, etc.

[1257] D. Wyatt.

[1258] Mr. Ferguson, the inventor of the bullet-hole, square net (tulle carré), and wire-ground (point de champ ou de Paris), had transferred his manufacture, in 1838, from Nottingham to Cambrai, where, in partnership with M. Jourdan, he made the "dentelle de Cambrai," and in 1852 the "lama" lace, which differs from the Cambrai inasmuch as the weft (trame) is made of mohair instead of silk. Mr. Ferguson next established himself at Amiens, where he brought out the Yak, another mixed lace.

[1259] The first patents were:--

1836. Hind and Draper took out one in France, and 1837 in England.

1838. Ferguson takes a patent at Cambrai under the name of his partner Jourdan.

1839. Crofton.

1841. Houston and Deverill, for the application of the Jacquard to the Leaver machine. The great manufactures of Nottingham and Calais are made on the Leaver Jacquard frame.

The first patterned net was produced, 1780, by E. Frost, the embroidery made by hand.

[1260] Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-Making. A. S. Cole. 1880.

[1261] "The machines now in use are the Circular, Leaver, Transverse Warp and Pusher. Out of 3,552 machines computed to be in England in 1862 2,448 were at Nottingham."--International Exhibition, Juror's Report.

[1262] Daphne lagetta.

[1263] He makes a paste of the plant which is the usual food of the caterpillar, and spreads it thinly over a stone or other flat substance; then with a camel's-hair pencil dipped in olive oil he draws upon the coating of paste the pattern he wishes the insects to leave open. The stone being placed in an inclined position, the caterpillars* are laid at the bottom, and the animals eat and spin their way up to the top, carefully avoiding every part touched by the oil, but devouring the rest of the paste.--Encyclopædia Britannica.

* Phalæna pandilla.

[1264] Two interesting papers were published in the Gazette des Beaux Arts for 1863 and 1864, entitled, "Essai bibliographique sur les anciens dessins de dentelles, modèles de tapisseries, patrons de broderies et publiés le xvi. et le xvii. siècle," &c, by the Marquis Girolamo d'Addo, of Milan.

[1265] Cambridge University Library.

[1266] Paris, Bibliothèque Nat. Gravures, L. h. 13 d.*

[1267] Bib. Nat. V. 1897.*--Genoa. Cav. Merli, 1528 (?).

[1268] Paris, Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,952.*

[1269] Oxford, Bib. Bodleian.

[1270] Milan, Cavaliere Bertini.

[1271] Venice, Library of St. Mark.

[1272] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 13. e.*

[1273] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,951.*

[1274] Silvestre, Marques Typographiques des Imprimeurs en France, depuis 1470. Paris, 1853-61.

[1275] Quoted in Cat. Cappi, of Bologna, 1829.

[1276] Quoted in Cat. Cappi, of Bologna, 1829.

[1277] Ibid.

[1278] Ibid.

[1279] Cat. Bib. Heber., part vi., p. 258. No. 3,514.

[1280] Paris, Bib. Sainte-Geneviève. V. 634.* Bound in one volume with the three following. (Nos. 16, 17, and 18.)--Catalogue de Livres provenant de la Bibliothèque de M. L. D. D. L. V. (Duke de La Vallière). Paris, 1763. T. xi., No. 2,204.

[1281] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Cat. d'Estrées. Paris, 1740-46. No. 8,843.3.

[1282] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Cat. d'Estrées. No. 8,843. 1.

[1283] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11.953.*

[1284] Paris, Bib. Baron Jérôme Pichon.*

[1285] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4.*

[1286] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4. a.*--Catalogo ragionato dei libri posseduti dal Conte di Cicognara. Pisa, 1821. No. 1,818.

[1287] Library V. and A. Museum.--Venice, Lib. St. Mark,--Milan, Bib. Marquis d'Adda.

[1288] Milan, Bib. Marquis G. d'Adda.

[1289] Rome, Bib. Prince Massimo.

[1290] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954 (with D. de Sera).*

[1291] Genoa, Cav. Merli.

[1292] Quoted by Cav. Merli.

[1293] Florence. M. Bigazzi.

[1294] Paris, Bib. Nat. Milan, Bib. Belgiosa and Marquis d'Adda.

[1295] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*--Bologna, Bib. Comm.--Cat. d'Estrées. 8843. No. 2.

[1296] Mr. E. Arnold.

[1297] Royal Library, Munich.

[1298] Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 4.

[1299] Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,953.*--Mr. E. Arnold.

[1300] Florence, M. Bigazzi.

[1301] Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 1. Bound in one volume, with six others.

[1302] Ibid. 1583. No. 5.

[1303] Cat. Cicognara. 1583. No. 6.

[1304] Ibid. 1583. No. 7.

[1305] Cat. Cicognara. No. 17

[1306] Ibid. 1583. No. 3.

[1307] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*

[1308] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,953.*--Mrs. Stisted. Bagni di Lucca.

[1309] Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*--Cat. d'Estrées.

[1310] Bib. Nat. V. 1901.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,973.*--Cat. d'Estrées.

[1311] Trezola, in the Riviera dialect, signifies a plait-tresse. "Porta i capei in trezola." ("She wears her hair plaited.")

[1312] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955 bis,* with Vera Perfettione and Fiori of F. Franceschi, and Corona of Vecellio.

[1313] Quoted by Willemin.

[1314] Quoted in Art. "Tricot et Travaux des Dames."

[1315] Bib. M. d'Adda.

[1316] Dresden, New Museum for Art and Industry. Communicated by Mr. Gruner.

[1317] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954.*

[1318] Milan. Bib. Marquis Girolamo d'Adda.

[1319] Bib. Rouen. No. 1313. Both Parts in one vol.*

[1320] We have received notice of there being a copy of the original edition at Turin, in the Library of the University.

[1321] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2.* (with Part I.): "Ex Bibliotheca illustrissimi Johannis d'Estrées Cameracensis Archiepiscopi designati quam Monasterio St. Germani à Pratis legavit. Anno 1718."

[1322] Brussels, Bib. Roy. M. Alvin, Conservateur en Chef.

[1323] Bib. Ste. Geneviève. V. 634.*--Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b.*

[1324] Bib. Ste. Geneviève (with 1st Part).*--Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 2. b. (with 1st Part).*

[1325] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,954 bis.*

[1326] British Museum. Grenville Lib. 2584.*

[1327] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 1. a.*

[1328] Brussels, Bib. Roy.--Cat. Cicognara. No. 1822.

[1329] Quoted in Watt's Bibliographia Britannica.

[1330] Bib. de l'Arsenal. No. 11,954 ter.*

[1331] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955 bis.*--Bib. Bodleian.

[1332] Ibid.

[1333] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,955* (with Books 2 and 3). Mazzette means detached bouquets--sprigs.

[1334] Rouen, Bib. Bound in one vol. with the three parts of the Corona.*

[1335] Communicated by Mr. Gruner.

[1336] Note of M. Leber, who gives the dates of the dedication of the Rouen copy as follows:--B. 1, 20 Jan.; B. 2, 24 Jan.; B. 3, 15 June, all 1591. The Gioiello, 10 Nov., 1592. The vol. containing the two works has 101 plates, in addition to 10 leaves of titles, dedications, etc.

[1337] Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1338] Brussels, Bib. Royale. Jean de Glen is also author of a work entitled Des Habits, Moeurs, Ceremonies, Façons de faire, anciennes & modernes du Monde, par J. de Glen, Linger. Liége. J. de Glen. 1601. In-8.

[1339] Lyon. M. Yemenis.

[1340] Turin, Count Manzoni.

[1341] Berlin, Royal Library.

[1342] Dresden, New Museum of Art and Industry.

[1343] Bib. Nat. V. 1902,* and Grav. L. h. 3.*--Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,956.*--Bib. Ste. Geneviève.*

[1344] Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1345] Bib. Nat. Grav. B. c. 22. Vinciolo.*

[1346] Catalogue des Livres de feu M. Picard. 1780. No. 455.

[1347] Brussels, Bib. Royale.

[1348] Nuremberg, German Museum.

[1349] Jew's stitch is given both by Sibmacher and Latomus. (No. 95.) We do not know what it is.

[1350] Cited by Cav. Merli, in his Origine delle Trine.

[1351] Cat. Evans, Strand.

[1352] Paris, Musée de Cluny.*

[1353] Bib. Nat. Grav. L. h. 4. b*.--Nuremberg, German Museum.

[1354] Stockholm. Royal Library. (Communicated by the librarian, Mr. H. Wieselgren.) In the same library is a work, without title-page or date, for "broderies et de tous autres besongnant à l'aiguille," by Hieronymus Cock, containing, with designs of every description, a few patterns for Spanish point of great beauty.

[1355] Bib. Baron J. Pichon, 2 copies.*--Cat. d'Estrées.--Bib. Nat. Grav. B. c. 22.* (Title-page wanting.)

[1356] Bib. Rouen. No. 1,314.*--Bib. Baron J. Pichon.*

[1357] Florence, Bib. Prof. Santerelli.--Rome, Bib. Prince Massimo.

[1358] Cat. Evans, Strand.

[1359] Hesse-Cassel, Public Library. Communicated by Mr. N. R. Bernhardi, the head Librarian.

[1360] Lowndes, Bibliographer's Manual. New edit. by Henry Bohn.

[1361] Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1362] Vienna, Imperial Library.

[1363] Brussels, Bib. Roy.

[1364] Bib. Imp. Grav. L. h. 2. a.*--Brussels, Bib. Roy.--Cat. d'Estrées 8847.

[1365] In the possession of Mrs. Marryat. "Maes y dderwen."--Bib. Bodleian.

[1366] Quoted by Mr. Douce (Illustrations of Shakspeare).

[1367] S. Marino. M. P. Bonella.

[1368] Berlin, Roy. Library.

[1369] Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,956 bis.*

[1370] Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1371] Victoria and Albert Museum.

[1372] Ibid.

[1373] A History of Hand-made Lace. Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum, 1900.

[1374] A History of Hand-made Lace. Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum. 1900.

[1375] A History of Hand-made Lace. Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum. 1900.

[1376] A History of Hand-made Lace. Mrs. Nevill Jackson and E. Jesurum. 1900.