10 (part 1 of 2)
[Sidenote: 1542. Venice.]
Giardinetto novo di punti tagliati et gropposi, per exercitio et ornamento delle donne. Ven. 1542, in 4to.[1275]
{464}11.
[Sidenote: 1543. Venice.]
Esemplare che insegna alle donne el modo di cucire. Venetia, 1543.[1276]
12.
[Sidenote: 1544. Venice.]
Il Specchio di pensiere (sic), delle belle donne dove si vede varie sorti di punti, cioè, punti tagliati, gropposi, &c. Venetia, 1544.
In 4to.[1277]
13.
[Sidenote: 1544. Venice.]
Ornamento delle belle donne et virtuose: Opere in cui troverai varie sorti di frisi con li quali si potra ornar ciascun donna. Ven. 1544.[1278]
14.
[Sidenote: 1546. Paris. Gormont.]
Le livre de moresques, tres utile et necessaire à tous orfevres, tailleurs, graveurs, painctres, tapissiers, brodeurs, lingieres et femmes qui besongnent de l'aiguille. Paris. Gormont, 1546. Fig. en bois.[1279]
15.
[Sidenote: 1549. Lyon. P. de Ste. Lucie.]
La fleur des patrons de lingerie, a deux endroitz, a point croise, a point couche, et a point picque, en fil dor, fil darg[=e]t, & fil de soye, ou aultre en quelque ouvraige que ce soit, en comprenant lart de broderie et tissuterie. Imprimees a Lyon, en la maison de Pierre de saincte Lucie (dict le Prince, Pres nostre Dame de Confort).[1280]
(At the end.)
Imprimé à Lyon par Piarre de saincte Lucie, dict le Prince. 1549.
8vo, 12 ff., 21 plates.
Frontispiece. Title in Gothic letters, with woodcuts representing people at work. Below, two women sitting at frames; above, two others; and between, a man with a frame in his hand. On each side a shield, one with crowned heart, on the other a lion, three fleurs de lys in chief. Patterns mediæval. At the end, the device of the printer, a mountain, on the top of which is a city against which a youth is placing his hand: motto, "Spero." At the foot of the mountain a cavern in which is seated a Fury. This device is engraved No. 616 in Silvestre, who gives 1530 to 1555 as the date of Pierre de Saincte Lucie.
{465}16.
[Sidenote: N. D. Lyon. P. de Ste. Lucie.]
Livre nouveau, dict patrons de lingerie, cest assavoir a deux endroitz, a point croise, point couche & point picque, en fil dor, dargent, de soye & autres, en quelque ouvrage que ce soit: comprenant lart de Broderie & Tissoterie. Imprimees a Lyon, chez Pierre de Saincte Lucie, pres nostre Dame de Confort.[1281]
8vo, 24 ff., 44 plates.
Frontispiece. Title in Gothic letters; the same shields as the preceding; two women at work. Patterns mediæval. At the end the same device.
The copy of the Arsenal is a different impression. Instead of "Imprimees," &c, we have, "On les vend," etc.
17.
[Sidenote: N. D. Lyon. P. de Ste. Lucia.]
Patrons de diverses manieres Inventez tressubtilement Duysans a Brodeurs et Lingieres Et a ceusy lesquelz vrayement Veullent par bon entendement User Dantique, et Roboesque, Frize et Moderne proprement, En comprenant aussi Moresque. A tous massons, menuisiers, & verriers Feront prouffit ces pourtraictz largement Aux orpheures, et gentilz tapissiers A ieunes gens aussi semblablement Oublier point ne veuly auscunement C[=o]trepointiers & les tailleurs dymages Et tissotiers lesquelz pareillement Par ces patrons acquerront heritages.
Imprimees a Lyon, par Pierre de Saincte Lucie, dict le Prince, pres nostre Dame de Confort.[1282]
8vo, 16 ff., 31 plates. Title in Gothic letters. Patterns mediæval.
The copy at the Arsenal is a later impression. "On les vend a Lyon, par Pierre de saincte Lucie, en la maison du deffunct Prince, pres," etc. It has only 12 ff., and 23 plates.
18.
[Sidenote: N. D. Lyon. Le Prince.]
Sensuyuent lis patrons de messire Antoine Belin, Reclus de sainct Martial de Lyon. Item plusieurs autres beaulx Patrons nouveaulx, qui out este inventez par Jeban Mayol Carme de Lyon.
On les vend à Lyon, chez le Prince.[1283]
{466}Small 8vo, 6 ff., 85 plates. Copy at the Arsenal has 12 ff.
The same device of the printer in the frontispiece and at the end of the book. "Finis."
One of the patterns represents St. Margaret holding the cross to a dragon, but in these four books the designs are copied from each other, and are many of them repetitions of Quinty.
19.
[Sidenote: N. D. Lyon. D. Celle.]
Ce livre est plaisant et utile A gens qui besongnent de leguille Pour comprendre legèrement Damoyselle bourgoyse ou fille Femmes qui out l'esperit agille Ne scauroint faillir nullement Corrige est nouvellement Dung ho[=n]este ho[=m]e par bon zelle Son nom est Dominicque Celle Qui a tous lecteurs shumylie Domicille a en Italie. En Thoulouse a prins sa naissance. Mise il a son intelligence A lamender subtillement Taillé il est totallement Par Jehan coste de rue merciere A Lyon et consequemment Quatre vingtz fassons a vrayement Tous de differente maniere.[1284]
28 ff., 27 plates. Title in Gothic letters. Dedication to the Reader, in which it states the book is for the profit of "tant hommes que femmes." Patterns mediæval. At the end of the Preface, "Finis coronat opus."
20.
[Sidenote: N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore.]
Esemplario di lavori: che insegna alle d[=o]ne il modo e ordine di lavorare: cusire: e racámare: e finalm[=e]te far tutte [=q]lle opere degne di memoria: lequale po fare una donna virtuosa con laco in mano. Et uno documento che insegna al c[=o]pratore accio sia ben servito.[1285]
In 8vo, 25 ff., printed on both sides, 48 plates. Title in red Gothic characters, framed round by six woodcuts similar to that of Vorsterman; at the foot, "fiorio Vavasore fecit."
Then follows the "Documento per el compratore," and an Address to Ladies and Readers, by "Giovandrea Vavassore detto Guadagnino," saying that he had already "fatti alcuni libri di esempli di diverse sorte."
There is no date to this copy; but in the library of Prince Messimo, at Rome, is a copy dated Venice, 18 Feb., 1546, containing 50 plates; and Brunet quotes an edition, "Stampato in Vinezia, 1556;" Cav. Merli also possesses an edition of the same date. Mr. E. Arnold has also a copy with the same date.
The patterns are mediæval, on black grounds, with counted stitches, a large flower pot, mermaid, Paschal lamb, and a double plate representing Orpheus playing to the beasts.
{467}21.
[Sidenote: N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore.]
Essemplario novo di pin di cento variate mostre di qualunque orte bellissime per cusire intitolato Fontana di gli essempli.
Oblong 8vo. No date. 16 ff., 28 plates.
In the frontispiece is a fountain with the motto, "Solicitudo est mater divitiarum," and on each side of the fountain--
"Donne donzelle ch Per farvi eterne alla. El cusir seguite Fonte venite."
On the back of the frontispiece is the Dedication, headed, "Il Pelliciolo alla molta magnifica Madona Chiara Lipomana;" the page finished by a sonnet; in the last leaf, "Avviso alle virtuose donne et a qualunque lettore Giovanni Andrea Vavassore detto Guadagnino." Says he has "negli tempi passati fatto imprimere molto e varie sorte d'essemplari di mostre," etc. At the foot, "Nuovamente stampato."[1286] This work is also described by Count Cicognara with the same title, only with the date 1550. In the Bibliotheca Communitativa, Bologna, is a copy of the same date. In this last edition the author writes his name Valvassore.
22.
[Sidenote: N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore.]
Vavassore Gio. Andrea. Opera nova Universal intitulata corona di ricammi; Dove le venerande donne e fanciulle: trovera[=n]o di varie opere [per] fare colari di camisiola & torni[=a][=e]nti di letti [=e]ternelle di cuscini boccasini schufioni: cordlli di piu sorte; et molte opere per rec[=a]matori [per] dipitore poreuesi: (sic) de lequale opere o vero esempli ciascuno le potra pore in opera sec[=o]do el suo bisogno: con gratia novamente stampata ne la inclita citta di vineggia per Giovanni Andrea Vavassore detto Guadagni[=o]. 36 pp., sm. 4to.
13 ff., 52 designs, none of which are repetitions of the preceding.[1287]
23.
[Sidenote: N. D. Venice. G. A. Vavassore.]
Vavassore Gio. Andrea detto Guadagnino. Opera nova, etc. ... dove le venerande donne et fanciulle trovaranno di varie opere et molte opere per recamatori et per dipintori; etc. Nuovamente stampata, etc.[1288]
Quite a different collection from the preceding. A little of everything in this volume.
Zoan Andrea Vavassore was the pupil in drawing and engraving of Andrea Mantegna. Towards the beginning of the sixteenth century, he worked on his own account, and his engravings are much sought after. So greedy was he of gain as to obtain for him the name of Guadigno, in Venetian patois, "covetous." He lived to a great age.
{468}24.
[Sidenote: N. D. A. Paganino.]
Libro questo di rechami per el quale se impara in diversi modi l'ordine e il modo de recamare, cosa non mai più fatta n' è stata mostrata.
By Alessandro Paganino.[1289]
20 plates, with a long explanation how these works are done. (Communicated by Prince Massimo.)
25.
[Sidenote: N. D. Paris Vve. Ruelle.]
Patrons pour Brodeurs, Lingieres, Massons, Verriers, et autres gens d'esprit. A Paris. Pour la Veuve Jean Ruelle, rue S. Jacques, à l'enseigne Sainct Nicolas.[1290]
4to, 23 ff., 32 plates of mediæval designs. Ornamented title-page.
26.
[Sidenote: 1548. Venice. M. Pagan.]
Il specchio di pensieri delle belle et virtudiose donne, dove si vede varie sorti di Punti, cioè punti tagliati, punti gropposi, punti in rede, et punti in Stuora. MDXLVIII. Stamp. in Venetia, per Mathio Pagan in frezzaria, in le case nove Tien per insegna la fede.[1291]
16 ff.
27.
[Sidenote: 1551. Venice. M. Pagan.]
1. L'honesto Essempio del vertuoso desiderio che hanno le donne di nobile ingegno circa lo imparare i punti tagliati e fogliami. In Venetia per Mathio Pagan in Frezaria al segno della Fedo, M.D.L.[1292]
In the V. and A. Museum is a copy dated 1550.
28.
[Sidenote: 1551. Venice. M. Pagan.]
Giardineto novo di Punti tagliati et gropposi, per esurcitio et ornamento delle donne. At the end, Venetia, Mathio Pagan in Frezzaria, in le case nove (tien per insegna della Fede) MDLI. Dedication, Alla signora Lucretia, Romana Mathio Pagan, salute.[1293] See also No. 38.
29.
[Sidenote: 1554. Dubois.]
Variarum protractionum quas vulgo Maurusias vocant omnium antehac excusarum libellus longe copiasissimus pictoribus, aurifabris, polymilariis, barbaricariis variisque id genus {469}artificibus etiam acu operantibus utilissimus nuncque primen in lucem editus anno 1554. Balthazar Sylvius (Dubois) fecit.
Jo. Theodoret, Jo. Israel de Bry excud.[1294]
In 4to, ff. 23, copperplate.
30.
[Sidenote: 1555. Padua. Fra Hieronimo.]
Triompho di Lavori a Fogliami de i quali si puo far ponti in aere; opera d' Fra Hieronimo da Cividal di Frioli, de l'Ordine de i Servi di Osservantia. Cum gratia et privileggio per anni xi.[1295]
Obl. 4to, 14 ff., 22 pl.
Ornamental title-page. On the top, a female seated in a triumphal car drawn by unicorns, with attendants. On each side of the title are women teaching children to work.
P. 1, dorso. Dedication of the author, "Alla Magnifica & Illustre Signora Isabella Contessa Canossa," whose "Immortal Triompho" is represented in the above woodcut. Fra Hieronimo speaks of preparing "più alte e divine imprese."
Then follow three pages of verses in terzette, and p. 3, dorso, the impresa of the printer, a lion rampant, holding a sword in his fore paws. Below, "In Padou per Jacobo Fabriano, ad instantia de Fra Hieronimo da Cividal di Frioli: de l'Ordine de i Servi di Osservantia 1555."
31.
[Sidenote: 1556. Venice. Torello.]
Lucidario di ricami di Guiseppe Torello. Venezia, 1556.
In 4to.
32.
[Sidenote: 1556. Strasburg. H. Hoffman.]
New Modelbüch, allen Nägerin, unnd Sydenstickern sehr nutzlich zü branchë, vor nye in Druck aussgangen durch Hans Hoffman, Burger und formschneider zu Strassburg. At the end, Zu Strassburg Gedruckt am Kommarckt durch Jacob Frölich. 1556. 4to.[1296]
4to. A to G in fours. (28 leaves.)
Title printed in red and black. On it a woodcut of two women, one engaged in embroidery, the other fringing her some stuff. The last leaf (Giiii.) has on the recto a woodcut of a woman at a frame, the verso blank.
33.
[Sidenote: N. D. Zurich. C. Froschover.]
Nüw Modelbüch, allerley gattungen Däntelschnür, so diser zyt in hoch Tütschlanden geng und brüchig sind, zu underricht jren Leertöchteren unnd allen anderen schurwirckeren zu Zurych {470}und wo die sind, yetz nüwlich zübereit, und erstmals in truch verfergket durch R. M.[1297]
No place or date, but as appears, both from the title and preface, to be printed at Zurich, by Christopher Froschover. The date probably from 1530 to 1540.
4to. Signatures A to F in fours. 24 leaves. On the title a woodcut of two women working at lace pillows.
34.
[Sidenote: N. D. Frankfort.]
Modelbüch Welscher, Ober und Niderlandischer Arbait. Getruckt zü Franckfort.
No date, but probably at least as early as 1530. 4to. Signatures A to D in fours. 20 leaves.
Title enclosed in an elegant woodcut border.
35.
[Sidenote: 1537. Frankfort. C. Egenolffs.]
Modelbüch, von erhabener unnd flacher Arbait, Auff der Ramen, Laden, und nach der Zale.
Getruckt zu Franckfort, Bei Christian Egenolffs, Erben.
The date, 1537, occurs on one of the patterns. 4to. AA to HH in fours. 32 leaves. Title in a woodcut border. 178 patterns.
36.
[Sidenote: 1571. Frankfort on the Mayn. N. Baseus.]
New Modelbüch.
Von allerhandt Art, Nehens und Stickens, jetzt mit viellerley Welscher Arbeyt, Mödel und Stahlen, allen Steinmetzen, Seidenstickern und Neterin, sehr nützlich und kunstlich, von newem zugericht.
Getruckt zu Frankfurt am Mayn, 1571.
Device and motto of Nicolas Baseus on title-page. Sm. 4to. (Library V. and A. Museum.)
37.
[Sidenote: 1568. Frankfort on the Mayn. N. Baseus.]
Das new Modelbüch, &c.
Franckfurt am Mayn, 1568, 4to. Printer, Nicholas Baseus, ff. 40.
38.
[Sidenote: 1569. Frankfort on the Mayn.]
Modelbüch; Zweiter Theil: Franckfurt am Mayn, 1569.
4to, ff. 44. Nos. 36 and 37 are cited by the Marquis d'Adda.
{471}39.
[Sidenote: 1558. Venice. M. Pagan.]
La Gloria et l'honore de ponti tagliati et ponti in aere Venezia per Mathio Pagan in Frezzeria al segno della Fede. 1558.[1298]
16 plates. Dedicated to Vittoria Farnese, Duchess of Urbino.
40.
[Sidenote: N. D. Venice.]
Il Monte. Opera nova di recami intitolata il monte, nella quale si ritrova varie, & diverse sorti di mostre, di punti in aiere, à fogliami. Dove le belle & virtuose Donne protranno fare ogni sorte di lavoro, accommodate alle vera forma misura & grandezza, che debbono essere ne mai piu per l'adietro da alcuno vedute. Opera non men bella che utile, & necessaria.[1299]
Below, the impresa of the printer, an eagle with its young; motto, "Virtute parta sibi non tantum." In Venetia.
4to, 16 ff., 29 plates of bold scroll borders.
41.
[Sidenote: 1559. Venice. G. A. Bindoni.]
Il Monte (libro secondo) Opera dove ogni bella donna potrà fare ogni sorte di lavori cioè colari, fazzoletti, maneghetti, avertadure (berthes), &c., in Venetia, 1560.[1300]
Printer's mark and motto as No. 39: afterwards the dedication dated 1559, "à Vittoria da Cordova Gio. Ant. Bindoni," in which he states "Ho preso arditamente di presentarvi questo secondo Monte." 4to. ff. 16.
42.
[Sidenote: 1558. Venice.]
Bellezze de recami et dessegni opera novo non men bella che utile, e necessaria et non più veduta in luce. Venezia, 1558.[1301]
Ob. 4to. 20 plates of patterns.
43.
[Sidenote: 1558. Venice. I. Foresto.]
Lo Splendore delle virtuose giovani con varie mostre di fogliami e punti in aere. Venezia. Per Iseppo Foresto in calle dell'acqua a S. Zulian all' insegno del Pellegrino, 1558.[1302]
16 plates.
{472}44.
[Sidenote: 1559. Venice.]
Trionfo di Virtù Libro novo da cucir, con fogliami, ponti a fili, ponti cruciati, &c. Venezia, 1559.[1303]
16 plates.
45.
[Sidenote: N. D.]
Burato.
Consisting of four leaves, with patterns of canvas (tela chiara), in squares, for works in "punta" of various widths, with instructions how to increase or diminish the patterns. See CUTWORK.
On the back of the last page is printed in large characters, "P. Alex. Pag. (Paganinus). Benacensis F. Bena. V. V."[1304]
46.
[Sidenote: N. D.]
Burato ... con nova maestria, gratiose donne, novo artificio vi apporto.
A second edition without date. 4to, ff. 59; frontispiece, ladies at work, verso, Triumph of Fame. Four books of designs of great elegance and taste. The Marquis d'Adda assigns them to Vavassore.
47.
[Sidenote: N. D. A. Passerotti.]
Passerotti Aurelio Pittore Bolognese dissegnatore e miniatore figlio di Bartolommeo Passerotti circa al 1560. Libro Primo di lavorieri alle molto illustre et virtuosissime gentildonne Bolognesi. Libro secondo alle molto magnifici et virtuosissimi signori.[1305]
In fol. obl.
67 ff., including two dedications and a frontispiece. Designs for embroidery, etc., drawn with a pen. In the title-page of the first book is the device of a sunflower, "Non san questi occhi volgere altrove."
48.
[Sidenote: 1557. Venice.]
Le Pompe. Opera nova di recami dove trovansi varie mostre di punto in aere. Venezia, 1557.[1306]
Probably an earlier impression of the following. 4to, ff. 16.
49.
[Sidenote: 1559.]
Le Pompe, opera nova nella quale si ritrovano varie, & diverse sorti di mostre, per poter far Cordelle over Bindelle, d' Oro, di Seta, di Filo, overo di altra cosa di Dove le belle et virtuose donne potranno fare ogni sorte di lavoro, cioè merli di diverse sorte, Cavezzi, Colari, Maneghetti, & tutte quelle cose {473}che le piaceranno. Opera non men bella, che utile, & necessaria. E non più veduta in luce. 1559.[1307]
Below, the same impresa of the eagle, as in "Il Monte," Nos. 39 and 40.
8vo, 16 ff., 30 plates.
A great variety of borders and indented patterns (merli). (Fig. 169.)
"Si vendeno alla Libraria della Gatta."
In the Cat. d'Estrées is noted, "Le Pompe, Opera nella quale si retrovano diverse sorti di mostse per poter far cordelle, Bindelle, d'oro di seta, di filo. 1559, fig." Probably the same work.
50.
[Sidenote: 1560. Venice.]
Le Pompe, Libro secondo. Opera nuova nella quale si ritrovana varie e diverse sorti di Mostre, per poter fare Cordelle, ovver Bindelle, d'Oro, di Seta, di Filo, ovvero di altra cosa. Dove {474}le belle & virtuose Donne potranno far ogni sorte di lavoro, coèi Merli di diverse sorte, Cavezzi, Colari, Maneghetti & tutte quelle cose che li piaceno. Opera hon men bello che utile & necessaria e non più veduta in luce.
Impresa of the printer, "Pegasus," and below, In "Venetia 1560."
Obl. 8vo, 16 ff., 29 plates.[1308]
Mrs. Stisted's copy is dated 1562, and there is one at Vienna, in the Imperial Library, of the same date.
51.
[Sidenote: 1563. Venice. J. Calepino.]
Splendore delle virtuose giovani dove si contengono molte, & varie mostre a fogliami cio è punti in aere, et punti tagliati, bellissimi, & con tale arteficio, che li punti tagliati serveno alli punti in aere. Et da quella ch' è sopragasi far si possono, medesimamente molte altre.
In Venetia Appresso Jeronimo Calepino, 1563.[1309]
8vo, 20 ff., 35 plates of scroll patterns in the style of "Il Monte."
Dedication "Alla molto honorata M. Anzola ingegniera succera mia digniss." Francesco Calepino, wishing, he says, to "ristampare la presente opera," he dedicates it to her. In Bib. Melzi, Milan, a copy dated 1567.
52.
[Sidenote: 1563. Venice. J. Calepino.]
Lucidario di recami, nel qual si contengono molte, & varie sorti di disegni. A punti in aere et punti tagliati, & a fogliami, & con figure & di più altre maniere, come al presente si usano non più venute in luce Per lequali ogni elevato ingegno potrà in diversi modi commodissimamente servirsi. In Venetia, Appresso Ieronimo Calepino, 1563.[1310]
8vo, 16 ff., 29 plates of flowing borders like the preceding.
53.
[Sidenote: 1564. Venice.]
I Frutti opera nuova intitulata i frutti de i punti in stuora, a fogliami, nella quale si ritrova varie, et diverse sorti di mostre di ponti in Stuora, a fogliami, & punti in gasii & in punti in Trezola.[1311] Dove ogni bella et virtuosa donna potrà fare ogni sorte di lavoro, cioè fazoletti, colari, maneghetti, Merli, Frisi, Cavezzi, Intimelle, overo forelle, avertadure da camise, & altre sorti di lavori, come piu a pieno potrai vedere, ne mei per l' adietro d' alcun altro fatte & poste in luce.
{475}Opera non men bella, che utile et necessaria a ciascuna virtuosa gentildonna. In Vinegia, 1564.[1312]
Obl. 8vo, 16 ff., 30 plates of patterns either in dots or small squares.
54.
[Sidenote: 1564. Paris.]
Patrons pour brodeurs, lingières, massons, verriers, et autres gens d'esperit; nouvellement imprimé, à Paris, rue Saint-Jacques, à la Queue-de Regnard M.DLXIIII.[1313]
55.
[Sidenote: 1564. Venice. D. de Franceschi.]
Fede (Opere nova) intitulata: Dei Recami nella quale si contiene varie diverse sorte di mostre di punti scritto, tagliato, in Stuora, in Rede, &c. In Venetia, appresso Domenico de Franceschi in Frezzaria, all' insegna della Regina. M.DLVIII.
In 4to, ff. 16. In his Avis au Lecteur, Franceschi alludes to three other works he had published, styled La Regina, La Serena, and La Speranza.
56.
[Sidenote: 1564. Venice. D. de Franceschi.]
Serena opera nova di recami, nella quale si ritrova varie et diverse sorte di punti in stuora et punti a filo. In Venetia, Domenico di Franceschi. 1564.
Obl. 4to, ff. 16. Nos. 55 and 56 cited by Marquis d'Adda.
57.
[Sidenote: 1581. Lyon. J. Ostans.]
Le trésor des patrons, contenant diverses sortes de broderies et lingeries; pour coudre avec grande facilité et pour ouvrer en diverses sortes de piquer avec l'ésguille, pulveriser par dessus et faire ouvrages de toutes sortes de points &ct par Jean Ostans. Lyon, Ben. Rigaud. 1581, in 4-to.[1314]
58.
[Sidenote: 1567. Venice. J. Ostans.]
Ostans Giovanni. La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di Recami, et di cucire, &c. ... punti a fogliami punti tagliati punti a fili et rimessi punti in cruciati, punti a stuora, et ogni altra arte che dia opera a disegni. Fatta nuovamente per Gio. Ostans. Vittoria, con gratia et privilegio dell' Illus. {476}Senato Venetiano per anni.[1315] In Venetia appresso Gio. Ostans, 1567.
4to obl., 4 cahiers of 8 ff., 74 plates. Letter of Ostans to Lucretia Contarini; verso, an engraving of Lucretia Romana, surrounded by her women, signed Jose. Sal. (Joseph Salviati), who furnished the design, two sonnets, and Aves. A striking example of the borrowing between France and Italy in the sixteenth century, probably of the school of Fontainebleau. Grotesques like A. du Cerceau, scrolls after E. de Laulne, fresco of figures from G. Tory. Brunet describes a copy dated 1591.
59.
[Sidenote: 1584. Venice. Valvassore's heirs.]
Ostans. La vera perfettione del desegno &ct. Venetia M.DLXXXIIII., presso gli heredi Valvassori e Gio. Dom. Micheli al segno dell' Ippogrifo.
In 4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)
60.
[Sidenote: 1582. B. Tabin.]
Neues Künstlicher, Modelbuch von allerhand artlichen und gerechten Mödeln, &c., bei B. Tabin.[1316]
61.
[Sidenote: Paris. 1584. D. de Sera.]
Le livre de Lingerie, composé par Maistre Dominique de Sera, Italien, enseignant le noble & gentil art de l'esguille, pour besongner en tous points: utile & profitable à toutes Dames & Damoyselles, pour passer le temps, & euiter oysiveté.
Nouvellement augmenté, & enrichi, de plusieurs excelents & divers patrons, tant du point coupé, raiseau, que passement, de l'invention de M. Jean Cousin, Peintre à Paris.
A Paris. Chez Hierosme de Marnef, & la veufve de Guillaume Cauellat, au mont S. Hilaire à l'enseigne du Pelican. 1584. Avec privilege du Roy.[1317]
In the Cat. d'Estrées; No. 8848, is Livre de Pourtraicture de Jean Cousin. Paris, 1637, in 4 fig.
4to, 28 ff., 51 plates of mediæval design.
Frontispiece, three women and a child at work, on each side of the title a man and a woman at work under a trifoliated canopy.
Privilege for three years to H. de Marnef, "juré libraire en l'Université de Paris."
"L'auteur aux lecteurs." He takes his pen to portray what he has seen "en Italie, Espagne, Romanie, Allemagne, & autre païs, dont je ne fais aucune mention à cause de trop longue plexite," that he gives at {477}least eighty designs for the use and singular profit of many, "hommes tant que femmes." Below, "Finis coronat opus."
Then follows a "Balade" of 28 lines. On the last page, the impresa of Cavellat, a pelican in its piety, "Mors in me vita in me."
62.
[Sidenote: 1596. G. Frano.]
Frano Gio. Libro delle mostre da ceuser per le donne.
16 engravings on wood and 8 on copper. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)
63.
[Sidenote: Bologna. A. Parisini.]
Danieli Bartholomeo Recamatore libro di diversi disegni per Collari, punti per Fazzoletti et Reticelle divarie sorte. Agostino Parisini forma in Bologna.
15 leaves obl. 8vo, entirely engraved au burin, towards the end of the sixteenth century.[1318]
64.
[Sidenote: N. D.]
Ornamento delle belle et virtuose donne opera nova nella quale troverrai varie sorti di frisi, con li quali si potra ornar ciascuna donna, & ogni letti con ponti tagliato, ponti gropposi, & ogni altra sorte di ponti per fare quelle belle opere che si appartengono alle virtuose & lodevoli fanciulle.
On a scutcheon, with 3 figures below, "Libro Primo." Lib. Victoria and Albert Museum.
65.
[Sidenote: 1587. Paris. 1st Edit. 1st Part. F. Vinciolo.]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie. Servans de patrons à faire toutes sortes de poincts, couppé, Lacis & autres. Dedie a la Royne. Nouvellement inventez, au proffit & c[=o]tentement, des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic (sic) de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec privilege du Roy.[1319]
[Sidenote: 2nd Part.]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie ou est representé les sept planettes, & plusieurs autres figures & pourtraitz servans de patrons à faire de plusieurs sortes de Lacis. Nouvellement inventez, au proffit & c[=o]tentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec privilege du Roi.
(At the end.)
Privilege for nine years to "Iean le Clerc le ieune, 'tailleur d'histoires,' à Paris," signed 27 June, 1587. "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc Rue Frementel à l'Estoille d'Or."
{478}4to.
The first part consists of 40 ff., 36 of patterns and 4 preliminary pages.
P. 1. The title-page with decorated border, in which are two ladies at work. (See Title-page of this work.)
P. 2. Dedication of "Le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo aux Benevolles Lecteurs," in which he sets forth that several authors before him having published certain patterns for work that "les Seigneurs, Dames, & Damoyselles ont eu pour agréable," he, to show "la bonne volonté que je porte à la France, laquelle m'ayant été douce et favorable, depuis certain temps que j'ay quitté Venize, païs de ma nativité," wish to portray the present "pourtraicts d'ouvrages magnifiques tous differ[=e]s, & non encor usitez en cette c[=o]tree ni aultres, & que j'ay tenus cachés & inc[=o]gnus jusques à maintenant," feeling assured that if the first you had seen "on engendré quelque fruit & utilité, ceux cy en aporteront d'avantage," and if I see this my invention pleases you, I will "vous faire participer d'un aultre seconde bande d'ouvrages."
P. 3. Dedication "A la Royne," Louise de Vaudemont, by Le Clerc, saying that having received from Italy some rare and singular patterns, and "ouvrages de l'ingerie & en ay[=a]t inv[=e]te quelques uns, selon mon petit sçavoir, j'ay pensé puis que ces choses là appartienent principallement aux Dames," that he cannot do better than present them to the Queen, as if these patterns are useful (as he hears some less perfect and more rudely sketched have served and profited before), they ought to be offered to her Majesty. Signed last day of May, 1587.
P. 4. A sonnet.
AUX DAMES ET DAMOISELLES.
"L'un sefforce à gaigner le coeur des gr[=a]ds seigneurs Pour posséder enfin une exquise richesse, L'autre aspire aux Estats pour monter en altesse, Et l'autre par la guerre alléche les honneurs.
Quand à moy, seulement pour chasser mes langueurs, Je me sen satisfait de vivre en petitesse, Et de faire si bien, qu'aux dames je délaisse Un grand contentement en mes graves labeurs.
Prenez doncques en gré (mes Dames), je vous prie, Ces pourtrais ouvragez lesquelz je vous dédie, Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer. En ceste nouveauté, pourrés beaucoup apprendre, Et maistresses en fin en cest oeuvre vous rendre. Le travail est plaisant. Si grand est le loyer."
"Morir assidouamente per virtu, Non morirè."
Then follow the 36 patterns set off in white on a black ground, viz., 20 "Ouvrages de point Couppé," the first plate with the double [Greek: ll], according to the fashion introduced by Francis I. of using Greek monograms, standing for Queen Louise. On the second page are two escutcheons, one of France, the other with the letter H for Henry III. Then follow eight "Passemens de point Couppé," which are succeeded by eight more "Ouvrages de point Couppé."
Part 2, 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in squares for stitches like the German patterns of the present day. These consist of the Seven Planets, Sol, Luna, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus and Saturn. Four in squares of various designs; two of Amorini shooting stags and birds; Neptune and the winds; an arabesque with impresa of a column with circle and double triangle; five borders and squares, and {479}two "bordures à carreaux," diamond-shaped meshes. The last page contains the Extract from the Privilege.
This is the original edition of Vinciolo, of which we know but one copy existing--that in the Library at Rouen.
It was followed the same year by two other editions, with alterations.[1320]
66.
[Sidenote: 1587. 2nd Ed. 1st Part. F. Vinciolo.]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie. Nouvellement augmentez de plusieurs differens pourtraits servans de patrons à faire toutes sortes poincts couppé, Lacis, et autres reseau de poinct conté. Dedié à la Royne. Le tout inventé, au proffit & contentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A. Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.
[Sidenote: 2nd part.]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie ou avons augm[=e]té plusieurs nouveaux & differens portraitz de reseau, tout point conté, plusieurs nouvelles bordures et autres sortes differentes.
Nouvellement inventez au proffit & c[=o]tentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federick de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, Ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1321]
1st Part, 40 ff. The same frontispiece, dedications, date, and sonnet, as the first, the same number of patterns, only the eight styled in the first "Passemens" are here all called, like the others, "Ouvrages" de point couppé. (See Fig. 4.)
2nd Part, 32 ff. This part has 30 patterns, comprising the 24 of the first edition, and six additional ones, consisting of squares and two hunting subjects.
67.
[Sidenote: 1587. 3rd Edit. No. 1. Parts 1 and 2.]
Les singuliers et nouveaux Pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisieme fois augmentez Outre le reseau premier et le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té avec le nombre des mailles, choze non encor veue ni inventée. {480}A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le College de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1322]
This must be the first impression of the third edition.
[Sidenote: 1588. 3rd Edit. No. 2. 1st Part.]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint Hilaire, du Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du Roy. 1588.[1323]
68.
[Sidenote: 2nd Part.]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint Hilaire, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du Roy. 1588.[1324]
This must be subsequent to the Brussels impression, as Jean le Clerc has changed his address.
In the third edition, dorso of pp. 1 and 2, we have the addition of portraits of Louise de Vaudemont and Henry III., with a complimentary stanza of four lines under each.
In his Advertisement au lecteur, Vinciolo says that having promised, since the first impression of his book, to give a "nouvelle bande d'ouvrages," and not to disappoint certain ladies who have complained that he has not made "du reseau assez beau à leur fantaisie," I have wished for the third time to place before their eyes many new and different patterns of "reseau de point conté que j'ay cousus et attachez à la fin de mes premières figures," beneath which I have put the number and quantity of the stitches. Same dedication and sonnet as before. Privilege for nine years dated Paris, 25 May, 1587. "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, ruë S. Jacques, au petit Bec, devant le College de Marmouttier."
1st Part, 40 ff., 36 plates, 27 of point couppé, two stomachers, and seven "Passemens" de point couppé; the same lettered "Ouvrages" as in the preceding impression.
2nd Part, 36 ff., 50 plates. The thirty already published in the second edition, after which follow the twenty additional of "reseau de point conté," announced in the Preface, consisting of "6 Quarrés, 2 Coins de {481}Mouchoir, 2 Bordures, 6 animals: Lion, Pelican, Unicorn, Stag, Peacock, and Griffon"; and the Four Seasons. "Déesse des fleurs, representant le Printemps," etc.
These last twenty have the number of stitches given. (See Fig. 5.)
On the last page is an escutcheon with the arms of France and Poland.
69.
[Sidenote: 1588. 3rd Edit. No. 3. Parts 1 and 2.]
A later impression still.
Same title, date, portraits, dedication, and sonnet, only the Privilege is dated "ce douzième jour de Novembre 1587. De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, Rue S. Jaques, aux trois Mores."[1325]
34 ff. 30 plates, 1st part; 50 plates in 2nd.
70.
[Sidenote: 1595. 3rd Edit. No. 4. Parts 1 and 2.]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie à la Royne Douairière de France.
De Rechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux & differens portrais de reseau de point c[=o]té, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encore veuë ny inventée.
A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc, ruë Saint Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre. Avec privilege du Roy. 1595.[1326]
This impression is dedicated to Louise de Vaudemont, now "Reine Douairière," Henry III. having died in 1589.
71.
[Sidenote: 1606. 3rd Edit. No 5. Parts 1 and 2.]
The same title as that of 1595--differing only in date.[1327]
Privilege for six years, "donné à Mantes, le 3 Juillet 1593." At the foot, "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc au Petit Corbeil 1606."
The 1st part has 32 ff. and 36 plates; 32 "Ouvrages de poinct couppé," and 4 stomachers.
The 2nd part 46 plates, same as those of 1588, only four less.
On the last page the escutcheon of France and Navarre.
72.
[Sidenote: 1589. 4th Edit. Turin. Parts 1 and 2.]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. Derechef et pour la quatrieme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier et le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point conté, avec le nombre de mailles, chose non encore veue ni inventee. A Thurin. Par Eleazaro Thomysi. 1589.[1328]
Described in Cat. Cicognara with the date 1658. The 1st part 44 ff. and 39 plates; the 2nd with 36 plates.
{482}The editions of 1613 and 1623 are described in their chronological order. Nos. 64 and 71.
That of 1603 we have not seen; but M. Leber states it to be equally rich with that of 1623.
The copies of Vinciolo in the Bodleian bear the dates of 1588, 1603, and 1612.
Baron Pichon has a copy of an impression of 1612.
One at Bordeaux, in the Bib. de la Ville, is dated 1588.
In a book sale at Antwerp, March, 1864, there was sold the following:--
Lot 528. Livre de Patrons de Lingerie dediè a la Royne, nouvellement invente par le seign^r Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien. Paris, Jean le Clerc, 1598.--Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Paris, Ibid., 1598.--Les secondes oeuvres et subtiles inventions de Lingerie. Paris, Ibid., 1598.--Nouveaux pourtraicts de Point coupé et Dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme. A. Montbeliard, Jacques Foillet, 1598. 4 tom. 1 vol. in-4. v. anc. fig. sur bois.
It went for 440 francs to a Mr. Ross. We do not know the editions of 1598.
As M. Leber observes, the various editions of Vinciolo, published by Le Clerc and his widow, from 1587 to 1623, and perhaps later, are only impressions more or less varied of the two distinct books, the one of point coupé, the other of lacis.
The work of Vinciolo has been reprinted in several countries. In England it has been translated and published by Wolfe. (See No. 72.) At Liege, by Jean de Glen. (See No. 79.) Mr. Douce says that it was reprinted "at Strasburg, 1596, and at Basle, 1599, with a second part, which is rare, and sometimes contains a portrait by Gaultier of Catherine de Bourbon."
In the Bib. Nat. (Grav. B. c. 22), a volume headed Vinciolo (Federigo) Peintre Venitien et ses imitateurs, contains, with "La pratique," etc., of Mignerak (See No. 93), a German copy of the "nouveaux pourtraits," the work printed by Ludwig Künigs, at Basle, 1599 (See No. 85); and a German work headed "Broderies sur filet," 50 plates engraved upon copper.
73.
[Sidenote: 1591. London. Wolf.]
New and singular patternes and workes of Linnen. Serving for patternes to make all sortes of Lace edging and Cut-workes. Newly invented for the profite and contentment of Ladies, Gentlewomen, and others that are desirous of this Arte. London: Imprinted by J. Wolfe and Edward White, 1591.[1329]
EPISTLE TO THE READER.
Having framed a body of the best and rarest manner in true perfection of sundrie sortes of deuises or workes, as well for frame-workes as other needle-workes, I devised with all diligence and industrious studie to sattisfy the gentle mindes of vertuous women by bringing to light things never before as yet seene nor committed to print; All which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order, the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth forward; Whereby with more {483}ease they may be sewed and wrought in Cloth, and keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey of the worke. And more, who desyrith to bring the worke into a lesser forme, let them make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge them, and so may you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch, pouncing, or pouldering upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to be understood that these squares serve not onely for cut-workes, but alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching, noteing withall that they are made to keepe the work or deuise in good order and even proportion--And even if ye will that squares be greater, make of two, one, four, two, and soe they will be larger. And in this manner may you proceed in all.
God prosper your desires.
Then follows the dedication:
To the Right Worshipful Gentlewoman, Mistress Susan Saltonstall, wife to the right Worshipfull Mr. Richard Saltonstall, Alderman of the City of London (afterwards Lord Mayor, and knighted in 1597).
It being my chance (Right Worshipfull) to lighten upon certaine paternes of cut-worke and others brought out of Foreign Countries which have bin greatly accepted of by divers Ladies and Gentlewomen of sundrie nations and consequently of the common people; This seemed unto mee a sufficient instance and argument to bestowe likewise some paines for the publishing thereof, But being in suspense of the dedication two causes induced mee to imbolden myselfe to present it unto your acceptation and patronage: First because that rare devises and inventions are for the most part more agreeable and gratefuller accepted, than ordinarie and common things, although of great price and value, Secondlie because these workes belong chiefly to Gentlewomen for to passe away their time in vertuous exercises Wherefore to fit and accommodate the dedication aright to the contents and subject of the book I thought it not amisse to offer it unto your worship in token of thankfullness for so many benefites which I have received so bountifullie at your hands Assuring myselfe moreover that as these patternes will bring sufficient contentment and profite to all well-willers, that are desirous of this Arte, soe they shall for ever acknowledge themselves to be beholden chiefly unto you, being the chiefest occasion of the publishing and setting forthe thereof. And therefore uppon hope that you will take these inventions in good parte, which in time I am purposed (If God permit) to increase and augment with more paternes of worke. In the meantime I pray God give to your Worship a happie prosperous and long life with a full accomplishment of all your vertuous desires.
Your worshipps most dutiful Servant and Kinsman, ADRIAN POYNTZ.
74.
[Sidenote: 1591. Bologna. T. Pasini.]
Fiori di ricami nuovamente posti in luce ne i quali sono varii, et diversi dissegni di lavori; Come Merli, Bauari, Manichetti, & altre sorti di opere, che al presente sono in uso, utilissimi ad ogni stato di Donne. Seconda Impressione.
Impresa of Mercury. Below--
In Bologna, per Giovanni Rossi. MDXCI. Ad instanza di Tomaso Pasini.[1330]
{484}Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 18 plates like Vecellio, one "bavaro."
Dedicated by the author to "La Signora Silveria Rossi Ghisolieri."
Mostly indented patterns on black grounds.
75.
[Sidenote: 1591. Venice. F. di Franceschi.]
Prima Parte de' fiori, e disegni di varie sorti di Ricami moderni come merli, bavari, manichetti, & altri nobili lavori che al presente sono in uso.
A figure of Peace. Below--
In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della Pace 1591.[1331]
Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 17 plates in the style of Vecellio.
Dedication to "La Signora Gabriella Zeno Michele," signed "Di Venetia alli 19 di Marzo, 1591, Giovanbattista Ciotti." The last plate a figure of Fortune, with "Finis in Venetia 1591. Appresso Nicolo Moretti, ad instantia di Francesco di Franceschi."
76.
[Sidenote: 1591. Venice. F. di Franceschi.]
La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di ricami & di cucire ogni sorti de punti à foglami, punti tagliati, punti a fili & rimessi, punti incrociati, punti à stuoro & ogn' altre arte, che dia opera à disegni. E di nuovo aggiuntovi varie sorti di merli, e mostre, che al presente sono in uso & in pratica.
Impresa of Peace differing from the preceding.
In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della Pace. 1591.[1332]
Obl. 8vo, 86 ff., 72 plates.
Dedicated to "Signora Lucretia Contarini, per matrimonio Priula Nobile Gentildonna Venetiana," by Giovanni Ostans.
A woodcut of Lucretia working with her maidens, signed Jose Sol. 1557.
Patterns, Small Squares, Gorgets, Youth, Paris, Pyramus and Thisbe, Arabesques, Grotesques, and an Alphabet.
On the last leaf, dorso, A. B. C. D. "tutte sono quaderni." A figure again of Peace, and "In Ven. 1590."
77.
[Sidenote: 1592. Venice. 1st Book. C. Vecellio.]
Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro primo. Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutti le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra {485}sorte cosi per Freggi come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta impressione molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti.
Then follows the printer's impresa of the stork and serpent. "Voluptatum et malorum effetuu dissipatio," with a lady at work on each side, and below--
Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592.[1333]
Which is repeated in the 2nd and 3rd Books.
Obl. 4to, 32 ff., 28 plates.
Dedication of Vecellio "Alla Clarissima, et Illustrissima Signora, Viena Vendramina Nani, dignatissima Consorte dell' Illust^{amo} Sig. Polo Nani, il Procurator di S. Marco," in which he refers to his work on costume, and says that he dedicates this book to her for the delight she takes in these works and "in farne essercitar le donne di casa sua, ricetto delle piu virtuose giovani che hoggidì vivano in questa città." Signed: Venice, Jan. 20, 1591.
Beautiful designs, among which are three corners for handkerchiefs, the last lettered: "Diverse inventioni p. cantoni dee fazoletti."
On Plate 3, within a point coupé border, is a statue of Venus standing upon a tortoise, with other figures, and above, "Conviensi, che della Donna la bontà, & non la bellezza sia divulgata," and underneath:--
"Veneer io son, de le mirabil mani Del dotto Fidia d' un bel marmo finta. In me vedete atti gentili, e humani, Ch' esser dè Donna à gentilezza accinta. Io sopra una Testugine dimora, Perchè stia in Casa, e sia tacita ogn' hora."
[Sidenote: 2nd Book.]
Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro secondo.
Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutte le sorti di Mostre de puute tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra sorte, cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molti delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta Impressione molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti. Con Privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592.
28 ff., 26 plates.
The dedication of this and the next book, though differently worded, are addressed to the same lady as the first. This is dated Jan. 24, 1591.
Among the patterns are two designs for handkerchiefs, and on the last plate a statue of Vesta, within a point coupé border.
[Sidenote: 3rd Book.]
Corono delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel {486}quale si dimostra in varii dissegni molte sorti di Mostri di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati, Punti a reticello, and ancora di picciole; cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidi per tutta l'Europa. Con alcune altre inventione di Bavari all' usanza Venetiana. Opera nouva e non più in luce. Con privilegio. In Venetia Appresso Cesare Vecellio, stà in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Petri. 1592.
Dedication dated June 15, 1591. Vecellio says he has added "alcune inventioni di bavari all' usanza nostra." In the copy (Bib. de l'Arsenal, 11,955 bis) are added instructions to transfer the patterns upon parchment without injuring the book. The last plate shows how to reduce the patterns and how to prick them (Fig. 170). This is sometimes given at the end of the first book instead of the third.
28 ff., 26 plates, two of bavari.
On Pl. 27, woman with a torch and Cupid. At Pl. 28, in a point coupé border, is a fox holding the bust of a lady, the conceit of which is explained by the verses to be, that sense is better than beauty:--
"Trovò la Volpe d' un Scultore eletto Una testa sì ben formata, tale, Che sol le manca Spirito havresti detto, Tanto l' industria, e l' arteficio vale, La prende in man, poi dice; O che perfetto Capo, e gentil; ma voto è d' inteletto."
78.
[Sidenote: 1594. Venice. C. Vecellio.]
Gioiello della corona per le nobili e virtuose donne. Libro quarto. Nel quale si dimostra altri nuovi bellissimi Dissegni di tutte le sorte di Mostre di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati & Punti à Reticello; così per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali mostre possono servire anchora per opere à Mazzette Nuovament posto in luce con molte bellissime inventioni non mai più usate, nè vedute. Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nella Casa de i Preti. 1594.
Same impresa of the stork and serpent.
Dedicated to the Sign. Isabella Palavicina Lupi Marchesa di Soragana, dated "Venetia alli 20 Novembrio 1592." Cesare Vecellio. 30 plates.[1334]
{487}Vecellio, author of the Corona and Gioiello, also published a work on costume styled Degli Habiti Antichi et Moderni. In Venezia, 1590. Presso Damian Zenero. In the frontispiece is a salamander; on the last leaf a figure of Vesta. It has been reproduced by F. Didot, Paris.
He was not, as is often incorrectly stated, a relation, or even of the same family as Titian.
These are the earliest impressions we have had an opportunity of examining of Vecellio's works, which appear to have been widely circulated. The Bib. de l'Arsenal possesses two copies of the Corona (No. 11,955), from which we have described. In the other (No. 11,155 bis), Book 1 "ultima," Book 2 "quarta," are both dated 1593; and Book 3 "nuovamente ristampata la quarta volta," 1592. The plates all the same.
The Library of Rouen (No. 1,315) has a volume containing the Corona and Gioiello. Book 1 "quarta Imp.," Book 2 "ultima," both dated 1594; and Book 3 "quinta," 1593. The Gioiello, 1593.
In the Bodleian is a copy of the three books, date 1592; and another, date 1561, was in the possession of the late Mrs. Dennistoun of Dennistoun.
At Venice, in the Doge's Library, is a volume containing the three books of the Corona and the Gioiello, dated 1593.
Mrs. Stisted, Bagni di Lucca, also possesses the three books of the Corona, dated 1597, and the Gioiello, 1592.
At Bologna the Library has one volume, containing the first and second books only, evidently the original impressions. The titles are the same as the above, only to each is affixed, "Opera nuova e non più data in luce," and "Stampata per gli Hered' della Regina. 1591. An instantia di Cesare Vecellio, Stà in Frezzaria."
The same Library also possesses a volume, with the three books of the Corona, the first and third "ottava," the second "quarta," and the Gioiello, "nuovamente posto in luce." All "In Venetia appresso gli heredi di Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria. 1608."
At Vienna, in the new Museum for Art and Industry, is a copy of the five books, dated 1601.[1335]
Cav. Merli cites from a copy of the four books, dated 1600.
The various impressions, therefore, date from 1591 to 1608.
We see these different parts, like those of Vinciolo and all these old collections, have been printed and reprinted independently of each other, since the third part was at its fifth impression in 1593, while the first, which ought to have preceded it, was only at its fourth in 1594.[1336]
79.
[Sidenote: 1593. St. Gall. G. Strauben.]
New Model Buch darinnen allerley Gattung schöner Modeln der newen aussgeschitnen Arbeit auff Krägen, Hempter, Jakelet und dergleichen zu newen, so zuvor in Teutschlandt nicht gesehen. Allen thugentsamen Frawen und Jungkfrawen, Nätterinnen, auch allen audern so lust zu solcher kunstlichen Arbeit haben, sehr dienstlich.
{488}Getruckt in uerlegung George Strauben, von S. Gallem, Anno 1593.[1337]
Translation.
New Patternbook, in which are all sorts of beautiful patterns of the new cutwork for collars, shirts, jackets, and such like, such as never before were seen in Germany. Most useful to all virtuous dames and such artistic works, very respectfully dedicated.
Printed for the publisher, G. Strauben.
A reprint of the third book of Vecellio's Corona.
80.
[Sidenote: N.D. Lindau am Bodensee.]
Neu Model-Buch, darinnen allerley gattung schöner Modeln der neuen, etc.
Probably a reprint of No. 79.
27 plates.
81.
[Sidenote: 1597. Liége. J. de Glen.]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraits, pour toutes sortes de lingeries de Jean de Glen, dediés à Madame Loyse de Perez; à Liége, chez Jean de Glen, l'an 1597.[1338]
Obl. 4to, 39 plates, mostly borrowed from Vinciolo, as well as the title.
82.
[Sidenote: 1596. Florence. M. Florini.]
Fior di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce. Fiorenze, 1596, ad instanza di Mattheo Florini.
4to obl., 24 plates and 2 leaves of text.[1339]
83.
[Sidenote: 1603. Siena. M. Florini.]
Fiori di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce nei quali sono varie et diversi disegni di lavori, como merli, bavari, manichetti e altre sorte di opera. Siena, appresso Matteo Florini, 1603.
4to obl., 24 pages.[1340]
84.
[Sidenote: 1603. Siena. M. Florini.]
Giojello, &c. Nel quale si di mostra altri novi bellissimi disegni di tutte le sorte, di mostre &c. ... di punti &c., cosi {489}per fregi come per merli et rosette che con l' aco si usanno hoggi di per tutte l' Europa. Opere a Mazzetto nuovamente posta in luce con motte bellissime inventioni non mai più usate ne vedute. In Siena, Matteo Florini MDCIII.
4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)
85.
[Sidenote: 1597. Nuremberg. B. Laimoxen.]
Schön neues Modelbuch von allerley lüstigen Mödeln naczunehen zu würken un zu sticke; gemacht im Jar Ch. 1597, zu Nürmberg, bey Balthaser Laimoxen zu erfragen.[1341]
Translation.
Fine new Patternbook of all sorts of pleasant patterns for sewing, working, and embroidering: made in the year of Christ 1597, at Nurmberg: to be had of Balthasar Laimoxen.
Obl. fol., 27 ff.
5 sheets, title-page, and poem, signed J. S. (Johann Sibmacher.)
Mr. Gruner has communicated to us a work with the same title, dated 1591.[1342]
86.
[Sidenote: 1598. Montbéliard. J. Foillet.]
Nouveaux pourctraicts de point coupé et dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme nouvellement inventez & mis en lumiere Imprimé a Montbéliard par Jacques Foillet (|)|)xciix (1598).[1343]
Small 4to, 82 ff., 78 plates.
Frontispiece with borders composed of squares of point coupé.
"Avertissement aux dames," of three pages, stating these works are all composed of "point devant l'esguille, de point en toille, en bouclages, & de cordonnages." The writer gives patterns of roses of all sizes, "very little, middling, large, and very large," with from one to nine pertuis, or openings, holes. Also Carreaux in different forms, and lastly dantelles. "Je n'ay voulu omettre de vous dire que pour faire des dantelles, il vous fault jetter un fil de la grandeur que desiré faire vos dantelles, & les cordonner, puis jetter les fils au dedans, qui fera tendre le cordon & lui donnera la forme carrée, ronde, ou telle forme que desires, ce qu'estant faict vous paracheverès facilement. Enoultre vous verrez qu'estant bien petites deviennent peu a peu bien grandes jusques a la fin. Elles vous enricheront & embelliront vos ouvrages en les applicant aux bords d'iceux." Directions, we confess, perfectly enigmatical to us. The author finishes by exhorting the ladies to imitate Minerva and Arachne, "qui ont acquis un grand renom, pour avoir (c[=o]me à l'envie l'une de l'autre) travaillé de l'esguille."
The avertissement is followed by an "Exhortation aux jeunes filles." in verse, of 21 lines, beginning--
"Si nuisible est aux humains la paresse," etc.
40 patterns of "roses," of point coupé.
{490}And 18 of "Carreaux," variously disposed.
Then follow 20 patterns of lace, of "bien petites, petites, moyennes, & grosses," all "au point devant l'Esguille." (See Figs. 8 to 12.)
At the end: "La fin courone l'oeuvre." This is the earliest pattern-book in which the word "dantelle" occurs.
87.
[Sidenote: 1598. Montbéliard. J. Foillet.]
New Modelbuch darinnen allerley ausgeschnittene Arbeit, in kleiner, mittelmässiger und grosser form erst neulich erfunden. Allen tugenden Frawen vnnd Jungfrawen sehr nutzlich. Gedruckt zu Mumpelgarten durch Jacob Foillet, 1598.[1344]
88.
[Sidenote: 1599. Basle.]
Fewrnew Modelbuch von allerhandt Künstlicher Arbeidt, nämlich Gestricht, Aussgezogen, Aussgeschnitten, Gewiefflet, Gesticht, Gewirckt, und Geneyt: von Wollen, Garn, Faden, oder Seyden: auff der Laden, und Sonderlich auff den Ramen, Jetzt Erstmals in Teutschlandt an Tag gebracht: Zu Ehren und Gl[=u]cklicher Zeitvetreibung allen dugentsamen Frawen, und Jungfrawen Nächerinen, auch allen andern, so lust zu solcher Kunstlicher Arbeit haben sehr dienstlich. Getruckt zu Basel.
In verlegung Ludwig K[=u]nigs MDXCIX.[1345]
Small obl., 33 ff., 32 plates.
Frontispiece border of point coupé. Title in Gothic red and black. Patterns, mostly borders, number of stitches given, "Mit xxxxvii., Bengen," etc. "Ende dieses modelbuchs."
89.
[Sidenote: 1601. Paris.]
Béle Prérie contenant divers caracters, et differentes sortes de lettres alphabetiques, à sçavoir lettres Romaines, de formes, lettres pour appliquer sur le reseuil ou lassis, et autres pour marquer sur toile et linges, par Pier. le Bé. Paris, 1601.[1346]
In 4to obl.
90.
[Sidenote: 1601. Nuremberg. Sibmacher.]
Modelbuch in Kupfer gemacht, Nürmberg, bei Michel Kuisner, 1601, by J. Sibmacher.[1347]
91.
[Sidenote: 1604. Nuremberg. J. Sibmacher.]
Newes Modelbûch fûr Kûpfer gemacht, darinnen allerhand art newen Model von dem Mittel und Dick ausgeschniden duer {491}Arbeit auch andern kunstlichen Nahework zu gebrauchen mit Fluss fur druck verfertigt. Mit Röm. Kais. Maj trentich Nürmberg 1604.[1348]
Translation.
New book of patterns (on copper) in which are copied out all kinds of new patterns for thick and thin materials, to be used also in the making of other artistic needlework.
Obl. 4to, 58 plates carefully engraved upon copper.
Title-page surrounded by a richly ornamented border, with two figures, one sewing, the other at embroidery; also a second ornamented frontispiece, dedication to Maria Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, dated 1601. Nuremberg, J. Sibmacher, citizen and engraver.
Then follow five pages of dialogue, given page 6, note 24, and 227.
A printed title to the next plate. "The following pattern may be worked in several different ways, with a woven seam, a flat, round, or crossed Jew stitch."[1349] It is probably meant for cut-work made on thin materials.
Then follow 58 leaves of patterns, the greater number of which have the number of rows written over each pattern. Pl. 38, with two patterns, is inscribed, "The following patterns are for thick cut-work." In the upper pattern, on the first leaf, are the arms of the Palatine; on the second, those of Juliers and Mark.
92.
[Sidenote: 1600. Venice. I. C. Parasole.]
Pretiosa gemma delle virtuose donne dove si vedono bellissimi lavori di ponti in aria, reticella, di maglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni altri bellissimi lavori nuovamente inventati. Stampata in Venetia ad instantia di Luchino Gargano MDC.[1350] See also No. 99.
93.
[Sidenote: N. D.]
Allerhand Model zum Stricken un Nähen.[1351]
Obl. 4to, 64 plates. No date.
94.
[Sidenote: 1604. Padua. P. P. Fozzi.]
A book of models for point coupé and embroidery, published at Padua, October 1st, 1604, by Pietro Paolo Fozzi. "Romano."[1352]
95.
[Sidenote: 1605. Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus.]
Schön newes Modelbuch von 500 schönen aussor wählten, Kunstlichen, so wol Italiähnischen, Frantzösischen, {492}Niederländischen, Engelländischen, als Teutschen Mödeln, Allen, Näher.... hstichern, &c., zu nutz. (Some of the words are illegible.)
Livre des Modelles fort utile à tous ceux qui besoignent à l'esguille.
At the foot of last page recto is, "Franckfurt am Mayn, bey Sigismund Latomus, 1605."[1353]
Small obl. 100 plates (Fig. 171), and coloured title-page with figures.
In the first plate is an escutcheon with this monogram (Fig. 172) surrounded with embroidery.
In the Nuremberg copy it is at p. 83.
96.
[Sidenote: 1607. Frankfort on the Mayn. S. Latomus.]
Schön newes Modelbuch, Von hundert vnd achtzig schönen kunstreichen vnd gerechten Mödeln, Teutsche vnd Welsche, welche auff mancherley Art können geneet werden, als mit Zopffnath, Creutz vnnd Judenstich, auch auff Laden zu wircken: Dessgleichen von ausserlesenen Zinnigen oder Spitzen. Allen Seydenstickern, Mödelwirckerin, Näderin, vnd solcher Arbeitgeflissenen Weibsbildern sehr dienstlich, vnd zu andern Mustern {493}anleytlich vnd verstendig. Franckfurt am Mayn, In Verlegung Sigismundi Latomi. M.D.C.VII.[1354]
Small 4to obl. 180 patterns.
Sheets A-O (the last has only 3 leaves). On the title-page are two ladies, one working at a pillow, the other at a frame; in the back-ground, other women employed at various works. Another copy dated 1629. Mr. Arnold and Mr. F. S. Ellis.
97.
[Sidenote: 1605. Paris. M. Mignerak.]
La pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias Mignerak Anglois, ouvrier fort expert en toute sorte de lingerie ou sont tracez Divers compartimens de carrez tous differans en grandeur et invention avec les plus exquises bordures, desseins d'ordonnances qui se soient veux jusques à ce jourd'hui tant poetiques historiques, qu'au tres ouvrages de point de rebord. Ensemble Les nouvelles invencions Françoises pour ce qui est de devotion et contemplation. A la Tres-Chrestiene Roine de France et de Navarre. Avec privilege 1605 du Roy.[1355]
A Paris, par Jean Leclerc, rue St.-Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre roialle.
EXTRACT FROM "DISCOURS DU LACIS."
"Ce chef d'oeuvre divin n'est pas à l'adventure Mais par art composé, par nombre, et par mesure; Il commence par un, et va multipliant Le nombre de ses trouz qu'un noeud va reliant, Sans perdre aucunement des nombres d'entresuitte, Croissant, et decroissant d'une mesme conduitte: Et ainsi qu'il commence il acheve par un, Du monde le principe et le terme commun. Si l'on veut sans faillir cet ouvrage parfaire, Il faut multiplier, adjouster, et soustraire: Il faut bien promptement assembler, et partir, Qui veut un beau Lacis inegal compartir. Mais se peut il trouver, souz la voute azurée, Chose plus justement en tous sens mesurée? Ouvrage ou il y ait tant de proportions, De figures, de traicts et de dimensions? D'un point premièrement une ligne l'on tire, Puis le filet courbé un cercle va descrire, Et du cercle noué se trouve le quarré Pour lequel retrouver tant d'esprits ont erré. De six mailles se faict une figure egale, De trois costez esgaux, pour forme pyramidale: Et l'ouvrage croissant, s'en forme promptement {494} Une autre dont les deux sont egaux seulement. Si l'on tire un des coings, se forme une figure. D'un triangle en tout sens, d'inegale mesure. Le moule plus tiré faict les angles pointuz, Et l'ouvrage estendu faict les angles obtuz. De mailles à la fin un beau quarré se faict, Composé de quarrez, tout egal, et parfaict, Quarré qui toutesfois se forme variable, Or en lozange, et or en figure de table. La bande de Lacis recouvert, à nos yeux, Est comme un beau pourtraict de l'escharpe des cieux, Dont chaque endroit ouvré nous represente un signe, Le milieu, les degrez de l'Eclyptique ligne; Le quarré, des vertus le symbole, et signal De science du livre et bonnet doctoral, Nous va representant l'Eglise et la Justice. La façon de lacer figure l'exercice D'enfiler une bague on bien l'art d'escrimer. . . . . . Le lacis recouvert sert de filet aux dames Pour les hommes suprendre et enlacer leurs ames, Elles en font collets, coiffures, et mouchoirs, Des tentures de lits, tauayoles, pignoirs, Et maint autre ornement dont elles les enlacent, C'est pourquoi en laçant les femmes ne se lassent."
In 4to, 76 ff., 72 plates.
Frontispiece: Two ladies, with frames in their hands, labelled "Diana" and "Pallas." On the top, an escutcheon per pale France and Medicis, supported by Cupids. Beneath, Cupids with distaff and winding reels. Between the sides of a pair of scissors is a cushion on which is extended a piece of lacis, a "marguerite" in progress. (See Fig. 6.) Above, "Petrus Firens fecit, I. le Clerc excud." Below, "A Paris par Jean le Clerc Rue St. Jean de Latran à la Salamandre royalle."
Dedication of Jean le Clerc "A la royne," then Marie de Medicis, stating: "J'avois recouvré d'un personnage Anglois tres-expert en toute sorte de Lingerie;" but who this Milour Mignerak may be, history tells not.
Then follows the "Discours du Lacis," a poem, of which we give an extract.
The privilege is signed Aug. 2, 1605.
The patterns consist of the Queen's arms and cypher, 4 Scripture subjects: Adam and Eve, the annunciation, Ecce Homo, and Magdalen; 4 Elements, 4 Seasons; Roman Charity, Lucretia, Venus, and "Pluye d'or;" 6 Arbes à fruit, 6 Pots à fleurs, 30 Carrés grands, moyens et petits; 6 Bordures, and, what is quite a novelty, 6 "Passements faits au fuseau." (See Fig. 13): the first mention of pillow lace in any of the French pattern-books.
98.
[Sidenote: 1613. Paris. F. Vinciolo.]
Les secondes oeuvres, et subtiles inventions de Lingerie du Seigneur Federic de Vinçiolo Venitien; nouvellement augmenté de plusieurs carrez de point de rebort. Dediée à Madame, soeur unique du roy. Ou sont representees plusieurs figures de Reseau, nombres de Carrez et Bordures tous differents, le tout de poinct conté, avec autres sortes de Carrez de nouvelles inventions non encore vues.
{495}A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc, rue sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre, 1613. Avec privilege du Roy.[1356]
A scarce and valuable volume, the fullest edition of the second part of Vinciolo's work.
4to, 68 ff., 61 plates.
It contains a--
SONNET AUX DAMES & DAMOYSELLES.
"Esprits rarement beaux qui fuyez la paresse, Je vous fais un present qui la pourra chasser, Quand vous desirez de gayement passer Vostre temps, et monstrer de vostre main l'adresse.
Le present est utile et plein de gentillesse, Il monstre les moyens de bien entrelasser. Et faire au point couppé tout ce qu'on peut penser. Cet exercise plaist à Pallas la Deesse.
Par ses enseignemens, avec l'esguille on fait Des fleurons, des oyseaux, en ouvrage parfait, Des chiffres et des noeuds, tels que l'amour desire.
Aymez cet exercise, et vous y occupez, Et puis vous cognoistrez que sur les points couppez En diverses façons quelque portrait se tire."
The author's address to the reader, and a
Dedication to "Madame, soeur unique du roy" (Catherine de Bourbon, sister of Henry IV., married, 1599, to the Duc de Bar), signed by Le Clerc.
On the second plates are her arms, a lozenge, France and Navarre with crown and cordelière, and the same lozenge also surmounts the decorated frontispiece, supported on either side by a genius (?) working at a frame and point coupé drapery.
7 Scripture subjects: The Salutation, St. Sacrement, Passion, Crucifixion, Adoration of the Kings, etc.; the number of the stitches given to each.
2 Stomachers, and various patterns of "carrez " and borders. 2 of "Point de rebort."
At the end is the "Discours du Lacis," already printed by Mignerak.
99.
[Sidenote: 1616. Rome. E. C. Parasole.]
Teatro delle nobili et virtuose donne, dove si rappresentano varij disegni di lavori novamente inventati et disegnati da Elisabetta Catanea Parasole Romana.
Dedicata alla Serenissima Principessa Donna Elisabetta Borbona d' Austria, Principessa di Spagna, da E. C. Parasole. Data di Roma a di 5 Marzo 1616.[1357] Other editions, 1620, 1625, and 1636. The last is dedicated to the Grand Duchess of {496}Tuscany, and has the Medici and Della Rovere arms in the title-page.
Obl. 4to, 47 ff., 46 plates (44 in Prince Massimo's copy) beautifully executed, the titles printed to each plate, as "Lavori di punti in aria, Merletti di ponti reticella, Merletti a piombini," etc. (See Fig. 15.)
100.
[Sidenote: 1600. Venice. I. C. Parasole.]
Pretiosa gemme delle virtuose donne dore si vedono bellisimi lavori di ponto in aria, reticella, dimaglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni altri bellisimi lavori nuovamente inventate. Stampata in Venetea ad instantia de Luchino Gargano MDC.[1358]
101.
[Sidenote: 1625. Rome. I. C. Parasole.]
Gemma pretiosa delle virtuose donne, dore si vedono bellisimi lavori de Ponti in Aria, Reticella, di Maglia, e Piombini disegnatida Isabella Catanea Parasole.
In Rome, appreso Guliegno Facciotti, 1625.
102.
[Sidenote: 1618. Frankfort on the Mayn. D. Meyer.]
Zierat Buch, von allerhandt Kutschnur, Schleyer deckel, Krägen, Leibgürtel, Passmenten, Händschug, Wehrgeheng und Schubenehen, Messerscheyden, Secklen, Früchten, Blumen und ands. mehr.
Allen Perlenbefftern, Nederin, Lehrinngen und andern welche lust zu dieser Kunst tragen, sehr nützlich.
Inn diese Format zusammen ordiniert und gsetzt durch Daniel Meyer Mahlern. 1ster Theil.
Franckfuhrt am Mayn, bey Eberhardt Kusern zu finden.
11 ff., 9 plates.
Translation.
Decoration book of all sorts of Cords, Veil covers, Collars, Belts, Laces, Gloves, Shoulder knots, shoe-seams (?), Knife sheaths, Bags, Fruit, Flowers, and other things besides. Very useful to all Beadworkers, Seamstresses, Apprentices, and others, who take a pleasure or are fond of this art. Arranged and put into this form by D. M. M. 1st part.
103.
[Sidenote: 1619. Leipsic. A. Bretschneider.]
New Modelb[)u]ch Darinnen allerley kunstliche Virsirung und Müster artiger Z[)u]ege und schöner Bl[)u]mmen zu zierlichen Ueberschlagen, Haupt Schurtz Schn[)u]ptüchern Hauben Handschuhen, Uhren (?) gehenzen, Kampfütern [)u]nd dergleichen auf Muhler naht und Seidenst[)u]cker arbeit gantz Kunstlich gemahlt {497}und vorgerissen, dergleichen sie bevorn noch nie in Druck ausgegangen. 16 Leipzicht 19.
Inn Verleg[)u]ng Henning Grosseren, de J[)u]ngeren Andreas Bretschneider Mahller.[1359]
Translation.
New pattern-book, in which all sorts of artistic ornamentations and patterns of pretty stuffs and beautiful flowers for covers for Head, Aprons, and Pocket-handkerchiefs, Caps, Gloves, Clock cases, Comb Cases, and such like, artistically sketched from painter and silk embroiderer's work, and which have never before gone out of print.
Small folio, 53 plates, and half a sheet of text, containing the dedication of the work to Madame Catherine von Dorstats, née Löser. There appear to be 3 plates wanting.
104.
[Sidenote: 1624. London.]
A Schole House for the Needle. 1624.[1360]
Obl. 4to. Was sold at the White Knight's sale for £3 15s.
105.
[Sidenote: 1620. Venice. Lugretia Romana.]
Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel quale si dimostra in varii dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati e punti in aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Retcello, e d' ogn' altra sorte, Cosi per Fregi, per merli e Rosette, che con Aco si viano hoggidi per lutta l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre porsono Serviri ancora per opera à Mozzete. Con le dichiarationi a le Mostre a' Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana. In Venetia, appresso Allessandro de Vecchi, 1620.[1361]
27 ff., obl. 8vo.
106.
[Sidenote: 1625. Venice. Lugretia Romana.]
Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne, Libro primo, nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in Aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Reticello, e d' ogni altre sorte, cosi per Freggi, per Merli, e Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano per tutta l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre possono servire ancora per opere a Mazzete. Con le dichiarazioni a le Mostre, a Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana.
In Venetia appresso Alessandro de Vecchi MDCXXV. Si vendono in Venetia al Ponte de' Baretteri alla libreria delle tre Rose.[1362]
Lady Wilton, in her Art of Needlework, quotes a copy dated 1620.
Obl. 4to, ff. 27. Portrait of Maria d'Aragon.
{498}107.
[Sidenote: N. D. Venice. Lucretia Romana.]
Ornamento nobile, per ogni gentil matrona, dove si contiene bavari, frisi d' infinita bellezza, lavori, per Linzuoli, Traverse, e Facuoli, Piena di Figure, Ninfe, Satiri, Grotesche, Fontane, Musiche, Caccie di Cervi, Uccelli, ed altri Animali. Con ponti in aria, fiamenghi, et tagliati, con Adornamenti bellissimi, da imperare, per ogni Virtuosa Donna, che si diletta di perfettamente cucire. Opera, per Pittori, Scultori, e disegnatori giovevole alle lor professioni, Fatta da Lucretia Romana, il quinto volume di Suoi lavori. Dedicato alle Virtuose donne, in Venetia.[1363]
Fol., 20 plates.
Frontispiece, in point coupé frame. A woman in classic attire is represented under a Doric porch, standing on a tortoise, symbol of a home-loving woman. (See No. 77.) She holds a ball of thread in her hand. Behind, on the left, are two women at work; on the right, a sculptor chiselling a statue of Minerva.
The plates, which are rich and beautiful, are each accompanied by a short explanation, as "Degna de esser portata de ogni imperatrice;" "Hopera bellissima che per il piu il Signora Duchesa et altre Signore si servano per li suoi Lavori;" "Questa bellissima Rosette usano auco le gentildonne Venetiane da far traverse," etc. (Fig. 173.)
The bavari are executed in three different stitches: punto d' aieri, p. flamingo, and p. tagliato. This author and Vecellio give Flemish patterns (punti Fiamenghi). They consist mostly of rosettes and stars (gotico).
108.
[Sidenote: 1623. Paris.]
Les excellents eschantillons, patrons et modelles du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour apprendre à faire toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie, de Poinct couppé, grands et petits passements à jour, et dentelles exquises. Dediez à la Royne. A Paris. Chez la Veufve Jean le Clerc, ruë Sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre Royalle. Avec Privilege du Roy, 1623.[1364]
In 4to, 56 ff.
The old frontispiece and same "Avertissement."
Dedication to the Queen, Anne of Austria.
The Goddess Pallas invented "les ouvrages de lingerie, le poinct couppé, les grands and petits passements à jour, toutes sortes de dentelles, tant pour se desennuyer que se parer, par l'artifice de ses ingenieuses mains. Araciné s'y adonna, and bien qu'inferieure se voulant comparer à elle & en venir à l'experience, mais sa presomption fut chastiée." Many illustrious ladies have delighted in this "honneste exercise." Fastrade and Constance, wives of the Emperor Charlemagne and of King Robert, "s'employèrent de cette manufacture, & de leurs ouvrages ornèrent les églises & les autels." This royal "mestier" has reached perfection through the works of Vinciolo. I reprint and again increase his work, which I dedicate to your Majesty, to whom I presume they will be agreeable; the subject of which it treats is "une invention de déesse & une occupation de Royne--vous estant autant Royne des vertus que vous l'estes de deux royaumes." Signed, "la Veufve de feu Iean le Clerc."
Same sonnet.
Privilege for six years, dated Paris, last day of March, 1623.
55 ff., 58 plates, 24 ouvrages de point couppé and 8 of "Passements au fuzeau" (see Figs. 14 and 15), and alphabet.
{499}109.
A Schole Howse for the Needle. Teaching by sundry sortes of patterns and examples of different kindes, how to compose many faire workes; which being set in order and forme according to the skill and understanding of the workwoman will, no doubt, yield profit unto such as live by the needle and give good content to adorne the worthy. London printed in Shoe Lane at the "Faulcon" by Richard Shorleyker, 1632.
TO THE READER.
Gentle Reader, I would have you know that the Diversities of Examples which you shall find in this "Schoole-howse for the Needle" are only but patternes which serve but to helpe and inlarge your invention. But for the disposing of them into forme and order of Workes that I leave to your own skill and understanding. Whose ingenious and well practised wits will soe readily (I doubt not) compose them into such beautiful formes as will be able to give content, both to the workers and the wearers of them. And againe for your behoafe I have in the end of this booke made two scales or checker patternes which by enlarging or contracting into greater or lesser squares you may enlarge or make lesser any of the saide patternes and examples in the booke or any other whatever.
VALE!
And because I would not have any one mistaken in any of these patternes contayned in this Booke, for some peradventure will look to find workes set out in order as they should be wrought with the needle or florished upon the Tent, &c. But as I have said before in the beginning of this Booke, that, that is here published are only but diversitie of patternes, out of which the workwoman is to take her choice of one or more at her pleasure and so have them drawne out into forme and order of worke. Of which skill if it may be I would have serving-men (such as have time enough) to practice and be skilful in which will be quickly learned if they would, with a little patience applie their mindes to practise it. A quarter of the time that they spend in playing at cards, tables, quaffing and drinking would make them excellent in this knowledge especially such as are ingenious and indued with good wits, as for the most part all of them have; Againe it is a thing that no doubt would yield them both praise and profit, beside the pleasure and delight it would be unto them, and a good inducement to drawe on others of their own ranke and qualitie to the like practice and imitation.
110.
[Sidenote: 1632. London.]
Here followeth certaine patternes of Cut-workes; and but once Printed before. Also sundry sorts of Spots, as Flowers, Birds, and Fishes, &c., and will fitly serve to be wrought, some {500}with Gould, some with Silke, and some with Gewell (sic) or otherwise at your pleasure.
London; Pinted (sic) in Shoe-lane, at the signe of the Faulcon, by Richard Shorleyker. 1632.[1365]
Obl. 4to.
The copy in the Bodleian is probably due to the above. It has no date and varies in title: "Newly invented and never published before," with "crewell in coullers," etc.; and "Never but once published before." Printed by Rich. Shorleyker.
33 patterns and title.
111.
[Sidenote: 1640.]
The needles excellency, a new booke wherein are divers admirable workes wrought with the needle. Newly invented and cut in copper for the pleasure and profit of the industrious. Printed for James Boler, &c., 1640.[1366]
"Beneath this title is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower garden, under the names of Wisdom, Industrie, and Follie. Prefixed to the patterns are sundry poems in a commendation of the needle, and describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their skill in needlework, among whom are Queen Elizabeth and the Countess of Pembroke. These poems were composed by John Taylor, the Water Poet. It appears the work had gone through twelve impressions.... From the costume of a lady and gentleman in one of the patterns, it appears to have been originally published in the reign of James I."--(Douce.) From this description of the frontispiece, it seems to be copied from Sibmacher.
"The Needle's Excellency, or a new Book of Patterns, with a poem by John Taylor, in Praise of the Needle." London, 1640. Obl. 4to, engraved title, and 28 plates of patterns. Sold, 1771, £6 17s. 6d. (Lowndes, Bibliographer's Manual. New edit., by H. Bohn). Another copy of the same date, marked 12th edition, is in the Library of King's College, Cambridge. It consists of title, four leaves with the poem, subscribed John Taylor, and 31 leaves of copper cuts of patterns.
112.
[Sidenote: 1642 Pistoja. P. A. Fortunato.]
Le Pompe di Minerva, per le nobili e virtuose donne che con industriosa mano di trattenersi dilettano di far Rezze, maglia quadra, punti in aria, punti in tagliati, punti a reticello, cosi per fregio come per merletti e rosette di varie sorti, si come oggidi con l'aco di lavorar usati per tutto l'Europa, arrichite di bellissimi et vaghi intagli cavati da più celebri autori di tal professione. In Pistoja, per Piero A. Fortunato.
In 8vo obl., dedicated to Caterina Giraldini, in Cellesi. August 20 1642.[1367]
{501}113.
[Sidenote: 1666. Nuremberg.]
Dass Neue Modelbuch von schönen Nädereyen, Ladengewerk und Soterleins arbeit. Ander theil. Nürnberg, bey Paulus Fürsten Kunsthändler.
Obl. 4to, 3 sheets of text, 50 plates.
Dedicated to the Princess Rosina Helena. Nürnberg, March 20, 1666.[1368]
114.
In the Bib. Imp. (Gravures, L. h. 4. c.) is a vol. lettered "Guipure, gravures burin," containing a collection of patterns engraved on copper, 43 plates, four of which are double, pasted in the book, without title or date. Pomegranates, narcissus, lilies, carnations, most of them labelled "Kreutzstick, Frantzösischenstick, and Fadengewürck" (thread work), the number of stitches given, with Clocks (Zwickel) of stockings and other patterns.
115.
[Sidenote: 1676. Nuremberg. C. Gerharts.]
Model Buch, dritter Theil von unterschiedlicher Vögeln, Blumen und Früchten &cte. Von und in Verlegung Rosina Helena Fürtin. Nürnberg, Christoff Gerharts, 1676.
4to obl., engraved title and printed list; 42 wood plates, 4 large.
116.
[Sidenote: 1722. Paris.]
Methode pour faire une infinité de desseins differens, avec des carreaux mi-partis de deux couleurs par une ligne diagnonale ou observations du père Dominique Donat, religieux carme de la province de Touleuse sur une mémoire inserée dans l'histoire de l'Académie royale des sciences à Paris, l'année 1704, presenté par le Rev. Père Sebastien Truchet. Paris, 1722.[1369]
72 geometric squares, with directions how to make them useful to architects, painters, embroiderers, "tous ceux qui se servent de l'aiguille," and others.
117.
[Sidenote: 1784. Nuremberg and Leipzig. Christoph Weigel.]
Neues Neta- und Strickbuch fur das schöne Geschlecht, worinnen allerhand Zierrathen, wie auch viele neue Zwickel, nebst Buchstaben und Zahlen, sowohl zum Nähen als Stricken in zierlichen Nissen und Mustern befindlich sind. Mit vielen Kupfertafeln. Nürnberg und Leipzig, der Christoph Weigel und Schneider. 1784.[1370]
{502}118.
[Sidenote: N. D. Nuremberg. F. M. Helmin.]
Continuation der kunst- und fleisz-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu ersonnenen besondern Nehe-Buchs dritter Theil, worinnen fleiszige Liebhaberinnen deeser nöthig und nützlichen Wissenchaft, ihr kunstliches Nadel-Exercitium, beij unterschiedlich vorfallenden Belegenheiten zu haben allerhand noch nie vorgeko[=m]ene Muster zu Deso gebrauch, vorlegt und en die Hand gegeben werden von Fr. Margaretha Helmin, zu finden in Nürnberg bei Joh. Christoph Weigel. Nürnburg. No date.[1371]
Oblong fol.
119.
[Sidenote: N. D. Nuremberg. J. Chr. Weigel.]
Zierlich webende Minerva, oder neu erfundenes Kunst- und Bild-Buch der Weber- und Zeichner-Arbeit, worinnen treue Anweisung geschieht, wie man kunstlich wirken und schöne Arbeit verfertigen soll, von der vierschäfftigen an, bis auf zwey und dreissig-schafftige. Nurnberg (Johann Christoph Weigel). No date.[1372]
49 plates in sheets.
{503}GLOSSARY OF TERMS.
Bars. See Brides.
Bead Edge. A simple heading for pillow lace.
Bobbins. Small elongated wooden or bone reels on which the thread is wound for the purpose of lace-making. They are frequently ornamented with patterns pricked or stained, and polished. They are weighted with "gingles" or "jingles" (i.e., beads, coins, seals, seeds, or various articles).
Brides. A small strip or connection (1) of threads overcast with buttonhole stitches, or (2) of twisted or plaited threads. It is used instead of a ground-work of net; the word is French, its English equivalent being pearl-tie. The French word is chiefly employed.
Brides ornées = brides ornamented with picots, loops, or pearls.
Buttonhole Stitch. One of the chief stitches in needle-made lace; also known as close stitch, Point noué, and Punto a Feston.
Cartisane. A strip of parchment or vellum covered with silk or gold or metal thread, used to form a pattern.
Close Stitch = Buttonhole stitch.
Cordonnet. The outline to ornamental forms. The cordonnet consists (1) of a single thread, or (2) of several threads worked together to give the appearance of one large thread, or (3) of a thread or horsehair overcast with buttonhole stitches. In England called gimp.
Couronnes. Ornaments to the cordonnet. When they ornament the raised cordonnet in the body of the pattern they are known as fleurs volantes.
Coxcombs = Bars.
Dentélé = Scalloped border.
Droschel. Flemish word used in Belgium for net-ground made with bobbins.
Dressed Pillow. A term used by bobbin-lace makers to intimate that all accessories necessary are in their proper positions.[1373]
{504}Edge. There are two edges to lace; the outer, which in trimmings and flounces is either scalloped or ornamented with picots, and the engrêlure or footing.
Engrêlure = Footing, or heading, of a lace, used to sew the lace on to the material it is to decorate.
Entoilage. French term for a plain mesh ground or galloon.[1374]
Fil de Crin. A thick or heavy outline or cordonnet.[1374]
Fil de Trace. The name by which the outlines of needle-made laces are distinguished.[1374]
Fillings. A word occasionally used for modes or jours; fancy stitches employed to fill in enclosed spaces in needle-made and bobbin laces.[1374]
Flax. Is composed of the filaments of the fibrous portion of Linum usitatissimum, an annual, native of Europe, and from it linen thread is spun. That of Flanders is the best for lace-making.
Fleurs Volantes. See Couronnes.
Fond. Identical with champ, entoilage, and treille. The groundwork of needle-point or bobbin lace as distinct from the toilé or pattern which it surrounds and supports. Grounds are divided into fonds claires, brides claires, and brides ornées. The fond claires include the Réseau or net-patterned grounds. Fond de Neige is also known as Oeil de Perdrix.
Fond Simple. Sometimes called Point de Lille; is the purest, lightest, and most transparent of all grounds. The sides of the meshes are not partly plaited as in Brussels and Mechlin, nor wholly plaited as in Valenciennes and Chioggia; but four of the sides are formed by twisting two threads round each other, and the remaining two sides by simply crossing of the threads over each other. [See Grounds.][1374]
Footing. See Engrêlure.
Gimp. The pattern which rests on the ground or is held together by brides. The work should not, however be confounded with the material gimp, which was formerly called guipure.
In Honiton and the Midlands, the word denotes the coarse glazed thread used to raise certain edges of the design.[1374]
Gingles. A name given in Buckinghamshire, etc., to the bunches of coloured beads hung on to bobbins by means of brass wire, in order to give extra weight and so increase the tension of the threads.[1374]
{505}Groppo [Italian]. A knot or tie.
Grounds. The grounds of laces are divided into two classes, one being called the bride, the other the Réseau. The bride ground is formed with plain or ornamental bars, in order to connect the ornaments forming the pattern. The Réseau ground is a net made with the needle or with bobbins, to connect the ornaments forming the pattern.
Guipure. A lace-like trimming of twisted threads. The word is now used to loosely describe many laces of coarse pattern. Guipure d'Art is the name given to modern darned netting.[1375]
Heading = Footing, engrêlure.
Jours. Ornamental devices occurring in various parts of a piece of lace. The earliest forms of jours may be seen in Venetian point lace, where they are introduced into the centre of a flower or other such device. [Modes are identical with jours.]
Legs = Bars.
Mat, or Math. The closely-plaited portions of flowers or leaves in bobbin-made lace; also the closely-worked portion of any lace.[1375]
Modes. See Jours.
Oeil de Perdrix. See Fond.
Orris. A corruption of Arras. The term is now used to denote galloon for upholstering purposes. In the eighteenth century it was applied to laces of gold and silver.[1375]
Passement. Until the seventeenth century, laces, bands, and gimps were called passements à l'aiguille; bobbin laces, passements au fuseau. At present the word denotes the pricked pattern on parchment upon which both needle-point and bobbin laces are worked.
Passementerie. Now used for all kinds of fringes, ribbons, and gimp for dress trimmings.
Pearls, or Purls = Bars.
Pearl edge, or Purl edge. A narrow thread edge of projecting loops used to sew upon lace as a finish to the edge.[1375]
Pearlin, or Pearling [Scotch]. Lace.
Picot. Minute loops worked on to the edge of a bride or cordonnet, or added as an enrichment to a flower--as in the case of rose point, in which picots play an important part.
{506}Pillow Lace. Lace made on the pillow, by twisting and plaiting threads. The French term is dentelle au fuseau.
Pizzo [Italian]. Lace.
Ply = A single untwisted thread.
Point Lace. Lace made with the point of the needle. The French term is Point à l'aiguille. The term point has been misused to describe varieties of lace, such as Point d'Angleterre, Point de Malines, etc., which are laces made on the pillow, and not with the point of the needle.
Point de Raccroc. A stitch used by lace-makers to join réseau ground.
Point Noué = Buttonhole stitch.
Point Plat. A French term for flat point executed without a raised cordonnet or outline cord.[1376]
Pricked. The term used in pillow lace-making to denote the special marking out of the pattern upon parchment.
Pricker. A short instrument used in bobbin lace to prick holes in the pattern to receive the pins.[1376]
Punto a Feston = Buttonhole stitch.
Purls = Brides.
Purlings = A stitch used in Honiton guipure to unite the bobbin-made sprigs.[1376]
Réseau. Ground of small regular meshes made on the pillow in various manners, and made by the point of the needle in fewer and less elaborate manners. The French term, as here given, is generally used in preference to any English equivalent.
Réseau Rosacé. See Argentella (Ch. ARGENTAN).
Rouissage. The process of steeping the flax preparatory to its being spun for lace-making.
Rezél, Reseuil. See LACIS, Chap. II.
Runners. The name by which the bobbins which work across a pattern in bobbin lace are known.
Sam cloth. Old name for a sampler.
{507}INDEX
Aberdeen, qualifications of schoolmistress of, 431 n1209
Aberdein, Mrs. Frank, cited, 400 n1140
Abrahat, Mrs., pensioned by Queen Anne, 347
Abrantès, Duchesse d', 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638
Abruzzi, the, lace-making in, 68
Addison, cited, 349
Addo, Marquis d', 459 n1264
Adelaide, Queen, 409 and n1155, n1156
Adélaïde de France, 182
Adelhaïs, Queen (wife of Hugh Capet), 5
Agriculture, women employed in, lace-makers contrasted with, 370
Aquesseau, Chancellor d', quoted, 264
Alb lace, at Granada, 92
Albert, Archduke of Austria, 113 n326
------ Museum (Exeter), tallies in, 78 n242
Albissola, lace manufacture at, 75, 77 and n240, 78, 79 and n246
Alcuid, embroidery taught by, 6
Alenches, 249
Alençon numbers of lace-workers at Chantilly and, (1851), 257 n688, refugees from, in 18th century, 347
--------, Duke d', 140 n395
-------- lace (see Point d'Alençon)
Alice, Princess, bridal dress of, 409
Almagro, lace industry at, 102 and n297, 103 n305
Aloe thread, Florentine use of, 93 n273
---- thread lace Greek, 86 Italian, 79 and n245 Portuguese, 107 Spanish, 91, 93, 99, 101
Alost Valenciennes, ground stitch of, 133
Altar-cloths, alternate designs on, 24 Bock collection, in, 23 Prague, at (by Anne of Bohemia), 9
Altar frontal in point conté, (Mrs. Hailstone's), 23
Altenburg, 268
Alva, Duke of, 366 n1085
Alvin, M., 480 n1322
Amelia, Princess, 128
America, impulse given to lace industry by U.S., 187 lace imported to, from-- Bailleul, 241 England (baby lace) 385 Grammont, 134 Italy, 75, 79 Mirecourt, 253 Portugal, 106 Saxony, 263 Spain, 102 Puritan lace-makers in, 372 n1099 war with, effect of, on lace trade, 408
Amsterdam, establishment of lace fabric at, 259
Anderson, quoted, 74, 83, 101, 124, 271,288, 371 n1093, 384, 396; cited, 264 n709, 265 n713, 286, 397
--------, Lady, robbery at house of, 346
Angoulême, Duchesse d', 196
Anne of Austria, influence of, on French fashions, 147, 150 Mechlin veil of, 125-126 and n356 pattern-book dedicated to, 144, 498 pilgrimage to Thierzac, 248 presents of English lace from Henrietta Maria to, 330 and n961, 401
---- of Bohemia, Queen (wife of Richard II.), altar-cloth by, 9
---- of Denmark, cost of lace of, 317 and n904, 320 and n925 Elizabeth's old clothes presented to, 320 English home industries encouraged by, 319 foreign lace purchased by, 327 funeral of, 325 and n934
---- of England (Queen Anne) household management of, 174 n516 Mechlin lace of, 126 and n360 period of, 347-350
Anspach, 265
--------, Margrave of, 178
Anti-Gallican Society Edinburgh and Dublin Societies contemporaneous with, 429 prizes awarded by, 119, 262, 297, 355 and n1058, 374 and nn, 380, 395, 398, 404 records of, cited, 373
Antwerp book sale at (1864), 482 Brussels lace made at, 130 Mechlin lace made at, 125 -------- lace arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 Brussels lace compared with, 118 first mention of, 129 and n367 Spanish market for, 129-130
-------- lace-makers, in London (1618-1688), 129 n366
Anzola, M., 474
Application lace, 122; flowers, 252
Appliqueuse, work of, 122
Aprons, laced, 309 and n873, 338, 356 and n1062
Aranda, Madame d', 98 n280
Arbroath, effigy formerly in church of, 418
Ardee, braid and cord lace made at, 446
Ardfert Abbey, lace shroud found at, 436
Argentan, 202 and n569
-------- lace. See Point d'Argentan
Argentella, 78 n244, 193 and n555
Argentine of Dorset, 310 n877
Argyle, Duchess of. See Hamilton
Armada pattern lace of Queen Charlotte, 397
Armstrong, Mrs. Rachel, 438
Arnold, E., cited, 466, 469 n1286, 471 n1299
Arras early industries of, 239 gold lace of, 240 lace industry of, 238-240 lace of, compared with that of Lille, 235, 240; with that of Mirecourt, 252 number of lace workers (1851), 257 n688
Arundel, Countess of, 12
--------, Lady, quoted, 395
Assizes, Maiden, custom of presenting laced gloves at, 337 n991
Asti, Baroness A. d', 79
Athens, white silk lace of, 86
Atterbury, Bishop, lace smuggled in coffin of, 361
Auberville, M. Dupont, exhibits by, 58; cited, 78
Aubry, Felix, quoted, 132 n376, 160 n466, 228 n614, 231, 257 n688; cited, 184, 285, 292
Audiganne, A., cited, 228 n614
Augsburg, 266, 267
Augusta, Princess, marriage of, 359
Aumale, Madame d', 183
Aurillac, 154, 246-250
Austria Albert Archduke, 113 n326 Anne of. See Anne lace of, 268
Auto-da-fè, lace worn at, 100
Auvergne ancient names preserved in, 246 n658 lace exhibited (1867), 246 Maltese guipures made in, 88 mignonette made in (1665), 35 number of lace-makers in (1851), 257 n688 petition of lace-makers in (1767), 64 thread used in, 245
--------, Mgr. de la Tour d', 183
Auvray, quoted, 224 n611
Avaux, M. le Comte d', 155
Avrillion, Mlle., 177 n526; cited, 184 n541
Axmouth, lace-workers of, 409 n1157
Aylesbury, lace industry of, 378, 379
Baby lace, 385
Babylon, embroidery of, 3
Backhouse, James, 300
Bacon, Lord, 318
Baden, Princess of, 178
Bailey's Dictionary, quoted, 303 n830
Bailleul, 241 and n647, 257 n688
Baillie, James, 432
Baker, Robert, 437
Baldachino in Italian lace, 66
"Ballad of Hardyknute" quoted, 24
Bamberg, collection of German Point at, 267
Bampton, Mr., 343
Bands Falling. See Falling Bands Lawyers', 337
Bannatyne, James, 422
Baptism ceremony, excess of lace at, 352 n1046
Barante, M. de, cited, 111
Barbara, Princess of Portugal (1729), 105
Barbes, 168 n496, 180 and n533
------ pleines, 234 and n627, n628
Barcelona, lace industry of, 91, 101 and n294, 103 n305 pillows used at, 103 n305 silk of, used in Maltese lace-making, 88; used for blondes, 103
Bard, William, 403
Barleycorn net, 448
Barry, Madame Du. See du Barry
Bars, Genoese lace joined by, 74, 75 n236
Baseus, N., 470
Basing, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320
Basset, Anne, 290
------, Mary, 291
Bassompierre, 142
Bath and West of England Society, 410 and n1159
Bath Brussels lace, 405
Baucher, Canon, 226
Bauta, 57 and n193
Bavari, 55
Bavaria, Queen of, 421
Bavière, Isabeau de, 139 n393
Bay, Rudolf, 274
Bayeux, black lace of, 214, 226 Chantilly shawls made at, 215 lace industry, establishment of, 226; Lefébure's development of, 228; number of lace-makers engaged in, 228 n614 mignonette made at (1665), 35 n109 point d'Alençon of, 200 point de Marli of, 225 and n613 point de raccroc of, 120 Spanish silk laces contrasted with those of, 103 Tapestry, 6
Bayman, Mrs., 107
Bayonne, linen work of (1679), 79 n248
Beale, Mrs., thefts from, 349
Bearing cloths, 309 and n871
Beau Nash on aprons, 356
Beaucaire, fair at, 43 n136
Beaufort, Duchesse of, edicts ignored by, 142; extracts from inventory of, 143 and n413, n414, n415.
Beauharnais, Eugène, 123 n351
Beaumont and Fletcher, quoted, 292 n788, 296 and n805, 315 and n896, 324, 363 n1070, 365
Beauregard, 248 and n664
Becket, Thomas à, 202 and n569
Beckford, quoted, 90, 98 n280
Beckmann, quoted, 92 n267
Bedford, number of lace-makers in, 377
--------, Lady, 320
--------, Duke of, 360
--------, Lord, 348
Bedfordshire lace, 88, 375-377, 385
Beds, lace trimmings for, 27 n84, 98 and n280
Beer (Devon), lace-workers at, 409 and n1157, 416 n1169, 417 and n1171
Beggars' lace, 34
Béguinage, 126, 130, 133
"Bèle, Prerie," 144
Belev lace, 283
Belgium (See also Flanders and Brabant) lace industry (See also Antwerp, Brussels etc.) application exported to France, annual value of, 252 centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 development of, 138 female education in, 112-113 guipures made by, 410 importance of, 112 and n324 numbers employed in (1861), 112 pillow lace. See Valenciennes Valenciennes industry transferred to, 232 lace schools in, 113-115 linens and flax of, 405-407 pedlar lace-sellers in, 44 and n143 smuggling lace of, into France, 116 thread, fineness of, 119 n339 weaving of lace in fourteenth century in, 109
Bell, Mrs., old lace of, 384
Bellière, M. de la, 130 and n368
Bellini, lace in picture by, 47
Ben, Miss Mary, 398
Beni Hassan, figures at, 1
Beresford, Lord John George, 443
Berkeley, Bishop, quoted, 371 n1092
Berlin, number of lace fabrics in (circ. 1685), 264
Bernhardi, N. R., cited, 497 n1359
Berry lace industry, 256
Berthe (mother of Charlemagne), 5
Bertin, Mlle., 181
Bertini, Cav., 462 n1270
Bess of Hardwick, 11
Béziers, Bishop of, 154, 155
Bible printed by Quentell, 460
Bidney, Miss Jane, 409
Bigazzi, M., 468 n1293, 471 n1300
Billament lace, 48 and n159, 299 and n817
Binche, royal edict concerning, 135 and n381
------ lace, 118, 135 and n383, 136, 212
Bindoni, G. A., 471
Bingham, Lady, 439
Bisette (bizette), 33 and n102, 210, 256
Bishops, denouncement of ruffs by, 316-317; ruffs worn by, 318
Black lace Caen fabric, 225 Caen, Bayeux and Chantilly, similarity of fabrics of, 226 Calvados, 223 Chantilly fabric, 212-215 and n584, 226 East Flanders fabric, 134 England, imported to, from Low Countries, 117 n330; fashion introduced into, 153 n444; Lille fabric popular in, 237 fond d'Alençon, ground, 214 France, fashion introduced into, 153-154 Le Puy fabric, 245 Liège fabric, 137 n391 Lille fabric, 236, 237 loom-made, 432 n1212 masks of, 177 Saxony fabric, 263 Turin, at court of, 153 n445
Blanche of Lancaster, 285 n755
Blandford, lace industry of, 344, 396 and nn, 397 n1134
Blessington, Countess of, lace collection of, 369
Blois, Mlle. de, 161-162 and n472
Blonde de fil, 34 and n108, 237
Blonde-workers, wages of, 225
Blondes Almagro, at, 102 n297 Barcelona silk used for, 103 Caen, of, 224 Catalonian, 102 England, introduction of manufacture into, in George II.'s time, 356; made at Sherborne, 397 French court, at, 182 Genoese manufacture of, 75 Le Puy, of, 245 Spanish, 103 n305 Vélay, of, 244 white, 214
Bobbin lace (See also Pillow lace) Belgian, 123 bobbins used for, 296 n798 pillow lace a term for, 32 point duchesse, 123 royal inventories, mentioned in, 295 n797 value of, per oz. (Queen Elizabeth's time), 295 n797
------ net English machine-made, 447-450 France, first made in, 187
Bobbins description of, 32, 33, 295 n795, 391 and n1127 Honiton, at, 415 n1166 long, used for bobbin lace, 296 n798 materials used for, 32, 74 n235 number of, 33 n101 Peniche, at, 106 n314
Bock, Dr., collection of, 23 and n74, 24
Boenen, G., 311
Bohemia, modern lace of, 262
Boileau, quoted, 159
Boislaunay, Epoux Malbiche de, 206
Boke of Curtasye, quoted, 290
Bolbec lace, 218
Bolingbroke, Lord, 351
Bologna, lace-making at, 68, 81 n248
Bonald, Cardinal de, 183
Bone, bobbins made of, 74 n235
---- lace bobbin lace distinguished from, 296 n798 explanation of term, 400
---- pins (See also Bobbins), 295 n795
Bone-work, why so called, 294
Bonzy, Monseigneur de, 154-155
Books, parchment patterns on covers of, 77
Boot tops, 145, 150
Bordeaux fair, 43 n136
Borlase, Sir Henry, 378.
Bosse, Abraham, engravings by, 146, 147, 149
Bottles used as light reflectors, 390 and n1125
Boufflers, Governor, 236.
Bourbon, Catherine de, 144, 482, 494
--------, Duchesse de, extracts from the inventory of, 120 n344, 125 n354, 128 n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 169 n497, 174 n519, 195 n560
Bourg-Argental, 224
Bourges, 5, 256
--------, Archbishop of, 118 and n336
Bourgogne, Duc de, 99 n283
Bowdon, Miss, 417
Bowen, Emanuel, quoted, 405
Bowes, Sir Robert, 38, 298
Bowie, J., 430 n1207
Bowll, William, 308.
Boys as lace-makers, 263, 377, 413, 414
Brabant (See also Belgium) lace-workers from, settled at Tönder, 274 point de Sedan, attributed to, 254
Brabant lace. See Brussels, Mechlin, etc.
Braid, lace a term used for, 26
------ lace (Devonshire), 414 n1156
------ and cord lace, 446.
Braidwork, in imitation of Spanish point, 410 and n1159
Branscombe, lace-workers of, 409 n1138
Brazil, lace of, 108.
Brazza, Contessa di, cited, 71 n222, 75 n237, 78 n244; quoted, 75 n236; lace school under direction of, 81 n248
Bremen, refusal of, to receive strangers, 264
Brennar, Mr., 442 n1232
Brereton, Miss Elinor, 438
Bretagne, 229 and n617
Bretschneider, A., 496
Briattes, Jean-Ph., 225 n613
Bribes of lace, 351 n1045
Bridal veils, 78
Bride ground. See Argentan ground.
------ lace, 302 and n829
Brides definition of, 31 and n91 Milanese lace, in, 75 n237 Spanish point, in, 58 thread guipures, in, 39, 40 vrai réseau the successor of, 406
Bridgewater Baptist Church, manifesto of, 403 and n1144
"Britannia Languens" (1680), cited, 54 and n183, 192
Brittany, 229 and n617
Brithnoth, exploits of, in embroidery, 6
Broderie des Indes, 229
-------- de Malines. See Mechlin lace
Brooks, Mr., speech of, quoted, 329.
Brotherton, Mr., invention of lace loom by, 432 n1212
Brown, Rawdon, cited, 345 n1025
Bruce, Mr. Collingwood, cited, 6
Bruges collection of lace at, 138 export trade with France, value of, 241 guipure de Flandres of, 123, 133 Valenciennes made at, character of, 232 n624
Brunet, H., cited, 161 n472, 236 n633, 459, 461, 476; quoted, 466
Brunfaut, M. Duhayon, 131 and n374
Brussels lace Alençon, 200 application, rivalry of Mirecourt, 252 arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 branches of industry, 123 Brussels the only place for, 118 colour of, 121 compared with-- Alençon, 199; Binche, 135; Lille, 237; point de France, 194; St. Trond, 137; Saxony needle point, 263 Cretan mesh work compared with, 87 designing of, 122 English Court fashion for, in George II.'s time, 354 exported as "English point," 117 flowers of, 121 grounds of, 120; Mechlin ground distinguished from, 125 Honiton imitations of, 405, 406, 410 made at Antwerp, 130; at Chimay, 135 manufacture described, 31, 118, 119; titles of workers of various processes in, 122 Marie Louise, Empress, presented with, 124 patterns of, 122; date of earliest patterns, 116 point de Bruxelles. See Point d'Angleterre popular establishment for English buyers, 124 price per pound, 119 n339; causes of high price, 118, 119; comparative cost of ground, 120; price of flounce of, 124 n352 thread used in, 118 and n338; fineness of 119 n339 value of, from one pound of flax, 120; intrinsic value of, 124 n352 veil of, presented to Empress Josephine, 123 n351; smuggled, 361 Venetian wear of, 57 and n192
-------- -lace-makers, point de raccroc of, 120
-------- net, 120 n345
Bruyel, Nicholas de, 111
Buckingham, Duchess of, 345 n1024
Buckinghamshire lace, 378-383; value of, 402
Buffon, ruffles of, 173
Bulgarini, Francesea, 68 and n213
Bullock, Consul, quoted, 89
Bunt lace, 428
Buoy, lace seized in, 360 n1066
Burano Alençon point made at, 62, 200 Argentan made at, 62, 208 English thread used at, 394 n1128 number of lace-workers at, 394 n1128 revival of lace industry at, 58-62
Burato, 53
Burgoigne, 205 n573, 216 n594
Burgundy, lace industry of, 255 and n684, n685; lace-makers from, in London, 373
--------, Duke of (Charles the Bold), 111
--------, Dukes of, inventory of, quoted, 82
--------, Duchess of, 167 n492
Burke, Patrick, 323
Burnet, Bishop, quoted, 13
Burnham (Buckinghamshire), lace industry of, 379
Burning of badly-spun yarn, 432 and n1211
Butterfly and acorn design, 308, 408
Byas, 299 and n815
Byzantine Empire, origin of lace traced to, 45
Cabanillas, cited, 102
Cadenetas, 95
Calderwood, Mrs., cited, 127, 431; quoted, 118 and n337, 137, 260; Dresden ruffles of, 262
Caen black lace of, 226 blonde lace of, patterns, 224; quality, 224; rise and fall of industry, 225 Chantilly industry outrivalled by, 215; Chantilly made at, 224 number of lace-makers employed in (1847), 225; (after 1848), 228 n614 price of lace of, 224
Cahanet, 226
Calais, machine-made blondes of, 225
Calepino, T., 474
Callot, engravings of, 146
Calthorpe, Lady, 37, 297
Calvados lace industry, 213, 223, 226, 228 and n614, 257 n688
Cambray, Archbishop of, 173 and n508
Cambrensis, Giraldus, cited, 435
Cambury, Lord, 403
Campan, Mme. de, 180 n533
Campane, 34 and n104, n106, 51
Campanner, 343 n1017
Campany, cited, 99
Campos, Father Fr. Marcos Antonio de, quoted, 95
Candy, thread lace from, 38
Canetille, 36
"Canons," 153 and n441
Canossa, Contessa, 469
Cant, Miss Anne, 430 n1207
Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making, cited, 2 n7
Cantu, lace-making at, 66, 80
Capefigue, quoted, 166
Card-sharping aided by ruffles, 171, 351
Cardinals, 356 and n1059
Cardwell, Mr., 384
Carew, Sir G., 308 n870
Carpaccio, lace in pictures of, 47
Carpentier, Madame, 226
Carrêno, lace rare in paintings of, 98
Carrickmacross, lace industry at, 440
Carrouges, 206
Cartisan, 36
Cary, John, quoted, 849 n1325
Castanaga, M. de, 167
Castlebar, lace industry at, 439
Catalonia, blonde made at, 101; blonde mantillas of, 88, 226
Catgut lace, 343, 430 n1207
Catherine de Bourbon, 144, 482, 494
---------- of Braganza, 43 n137
---------- de Médecis, bed of, 22 bizette of, 33 n102 Florentine lace probably introduced into France by, 67 lace-making at court of, 140 and n395 needlework of, 11 Vinciolo patronised by, 11, 17
Cattern's Day, 376
Cauellat, Veuve, 476
Cavenne, Citoyen, 137 n390
Cayette, V. P., cited, 140 n397
Cecil, letter from, regarding French tailors, quoted, 307
Cecyll, Richard, 291
Celle, D., 466
Cephalonia, Ionian lace at, 86
Cerceau, A. du, 476
Ceylon, pillow-laces of, 88
Challus, Anne, 184 n540
Chambrières, 8
Champagne, lace industry of, 253-255
Chandos, infant daughter of Duke of, 352 n1046
--------, Lady, 294 n791, 297 n811, 307 n862, 308 n867
Channel Islands, lace industry in, 372 n1098
Channon, Miss Mary, 398
"Chansons a toile", 8 and n29
Chantilly number of lace-workers at Alençon and, (1851), 257 n688 point tresse made at, 314
---------- lace black, 226 Caen manufacture of, 224 Genoese imitation of, 75 industry of, 212-215 Saxony lace compared with, 263 Spanish silk laces contrasted with, 103 Spanish and Portuguese imitation of, 106
Charles I. (England) Carisbrook clothing expenses of, 372 n1097 carpet bag trimmings of, 38, 298 extravagance of, 326, 327 and n950, 328 Great Wardrobe Account, quoted, 253 and n678, n679, 205 n612 marriage accounts, 296 period of, 326-332 picture catalogue of, cited, 296
-------- II. (England) Collobium sindonis of, 335 and n981 Flanders lace, importation of, prohibited by, 125 foreign lace imported by, 336 and n985 period of, 335-339 silver parchment lace of, 38, 298 and n841
--------, Prince (England), accounts of, cited, 322, 325 n940, n941
-------- V. (Belgium) cap of, 113 lace-making encouraged by, 113 portrait of, in Quentell's pattern book, 459
-------- VIII. (France), 139 n393
-------- IX. (Sweden), 279
-------- X., 143 n412
-------- the Bold, 111
Charleville lace, 183 n539, 254 and n680
Charlotte, Queen Armada pattern lace of, 397 British lace worn by, 363, 398 favourite lace of, 128 lace industry started by, 374 sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046
Charmouth, lace-workers at, 395
Charollais, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n353, 129 n364, 162 n475, 175 n520, 135 ruffles of, 233 n626
Chat, 181 and n536
Château de Madrid, lace factory at, 158, 210 and n584
-------- -Renaud lace, 254
-------- -Thierry, lace industry at, 157 n459, 253
Châtel-sur-Moselle, 251 and n671
Châtelain, Simon, 100 and n287
----------, Zacharie, 259
Chaucer, quoted, 15 and n50
Chaumont, 251 n673
Chauvin, Pierre, 230
Cheney, lace industry at, 384
Chesterfield, Lord, quoted, 358
Cheveux de la reine, 181 and n535
Chevreuse, Madame de, 168
Cheyne lace, 438
Chiavari Macramé of, 79 tape guipure of, 75
Chicago Exhibition. See under Exhibitions
Chichester, Lady Hamilton, 87 and n262
Chick, Mrs., 407 n1153
Chigi-Giovanelli, Princess, 61
Children as lace-makers, 103 n305, 107, 155, 209, 377, 438
Chili lace, 108
Chimay lace, 134-135
China drawn work of, 46 silk lace not in demand in, 89
------, lace exchanged for, 349
Choïsy, Abbé de, 167
Christening shirts of Queen Elizabeth's reign, 308 and n872
Christian IV. of Denmark, 68, 272-274
Christina, Queen, 73 n230
Church of England appointment of parsons of, for reform of lace-making abuses, 331 inventories of, lace mentioned in, 293 ruffs worn by Bishops, 318; sermons against ruffs, 316
------ of France, extravagance of prelates (Louis XVI.), 182-183
Churchill, Lord, 403
Cibber, Colley, cited, 344 n1021
Cicognara, Count, 467 and n1286
Ciglia family, Maltese lace made by, 88
Cinq Mars, boots and collarette of, 145
Ciprioto, 82 n252
Cistercians, 7
"City Match," quoted, 324
Clarke, Jane, 443 n1233
Claver, Alice, 288
Clayton, Sir Thomas, accounts of, quoted, 350
Clement VII., Pope, 62
-------- IX., Pope, 70
-------- X., Pope, 172 n505
Clément, M., 226
Clermont, Mlle. de, inventory of, quoted 128 n363, 195 n560, 207 n578
Clonard Abbey, effigy in, 437 n1222
Clones, lace and crochet industry of, 445
Cluny, Musée de, punto a relievo in, 51
------ lace Le Puy Fabric, 246 n659 Mirecourt fabric, 252
Coccolia, lace school at, 81 n249
Cochon, cited, 256 n686
Cock (fontange), 423
----, Hieronymus, 493 n1354
Cockscombes, 344
Code Michaud, 148
Coggeshall (Essex), lace made at, 441 n1230
Coigny, Duchesse de, 123 n351
"Col rabattu," 145
Colbert, Chevalier Aurillac lace of, 248 chief director of trade, 158 n461 death of, 192 development of lace industry by, 154; extract from letter to M. le Comte d'Avaux, 155 difficulties in establishing lace factories, 158 and n461, n462 fabrics attempted by, 255, 256 fabrics established by, at Arras, 239 and n644 Aurillac, 247 Château de Madrid, 158, 210 n584 Le Quesnoy, 230 Loudun, 256 Huguenots protected by, 100 inventory of, quoted, 218 n596, 259 n692 Mazarin, correspondence with, concerning lace, referred to, 150-151 ordinance of, 54 point d'Alençon established by, 188 points de France, established by, 33, 111 Raffy, Madame, letter from, quoted, 202
Colbertine, 337, 339 and n996, n997, n998
Colchester, complaints of, regarding foreign lace-makers, 324 n935
Cole, A. S. cited, 91-92 and n268, 446 n1236; quoted, 193 n555, 203 n570 Kinsale lace revival due to, 442 and n1232
Collaert, engraving by, 109 n319
Collars, hunting, 328
Collectors of lace, 364
Cologne pattern book, 268
Colombière, Vulson de la, quoted, 73, 149 and n435
Colporteurs, lace sold by, 44 and n142, n143
Colyton military thieves at, 403 tomb in church of, 403 n1145
Commode. See Fontange
Commonwealth, the, needlework in the time of, 13
Compas lace, 297 and n809
Compton, Lord, cited, 296 n800
Conclave, the holy, laces of, 70
Condé, Princesse de, inventory of, quoted, 125 n355, 161 n468, 168 n496, 169 n497, 174 n519, n520, 195 n558
Congreve, cited, 344 n1021; quoted, 339
Contarini, Lucretia, 476, 484
Conti, Prince de, marriage-toilette of, 161-162 and n472 point d'Aurillac cloak of, 248
Contrada del Pizzo, 59
Connet, lace trade at, 270.
Cooke, quoted, 414
Copper lace (St. Martin's), 331 n965
Coral point, 51
Coralline, Point de Venise copied from, 49-50
Cordonnet, 87, 406, 408
Corfu, Greek lace made at, 85
Cork, crochet industry of, 444, 445
"Corona" of Vecellio. See Vecellio
Cotgrave, quoted, 33 n102, 36 n112
Cotton lace, 187
------ weaving, at Ghent, 134
Couronne (picot), 31 and n92
Courtrai, flax grown at, 118 n338
-------- lace. See under Valenciennes lace
Cousin, Jean, 476
Couvin lace, 138 n392
Covenanters, sumptuary enactments of, 424
Coventry blue, 302
Cow-houses, lace worked in lofts over, 224
Cowper, quoted, 364, 370, 379
Coxcombs, 31
Cranfield, Sir Lyonell, cited, 324 n934
Crâponne fabric, 246
Cravat, laced introduction of, 337 origin of, 42 n135 stock the successor of, 345
Creaden, the Queen of, 437 n1223
Créquy, M. de, 143
------, Madame de, quoted, 175
------, Marquise de, quoted, 173 n511, 250 and n668
Crete, lace manufacture of, 86-87
Crochet, Irish, 444-445
-------- hook used in Genoese guipures, etc., 74
-------- needle, used in Punto di Rapallo, 75 n237
Cromwell, Oliver, dress of, 333, 334
Crown lace, 299 and n814
Croïy, Duc de, 366 n1083
Crusaders, art of lace-making, traced to, 45 n148
Cuença, 246
Cuipure (guipure), 37
Culpepper, Sir John, quoted, 318-319
Cunningham, quoted, 308 n866
Curragh point, 443 and n1233
Curtius, M., 143 and n412
"Custom of the Country" quoted, 324
Cut-work ecclesiastical use of, 15 Elizabeth's use of, 303-305 Italian, 325 James I.'s time, 322, 325 lace known as, 2 name explained, 19 pall of, used in Dieppe, 25 Ricci's "Last Supper" depicted in, 79 n248 smocks adorned with, 25 toile d'honneur of, use at St. Lo, 25
Cyprus, needlework of, 82
d'Abranthès, Duchesse, 105, 128 n343, 185 n542, 186 and n545, 237 n638
d'Addo, Marquis, 459 n1264, 467 n1287, n1288, 469 n1294, 470, 472, 475, 476 and n1315, 477
Daedalian ruffs, 315 and n895
Daimeries, Mme., quoted, 138 n392
Dalecarlian lace, 68, 281, 282, 338
Dalrymple, Miss Jenny, 263
Dalton, Mother Augustine, 444
Damer, Mr., 364
Dammartin lace, 212
Dangean, quoted, 167, 178
Dantelle (dentelle), first occurrence of word, 490
d'Aranda, Madame, 98 n280
Darned netting, 20, 21
Dartmouth, Lord, 379
Dauphin, ceremony at birth of, 162 n474
Davies, Barber Surgeon, quoted, 70
Davies' Epigrams quoted, 323 n933
Davey, Mrs., 409
Dawson, Mrs., 446 n1235
de la Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357
de Lonlay, Eugène, cited, 208
de Staël, Madame, 180
Deaf and dumb, net lace used by, in Sardinia, 81 n248
Debts for lace, 353 and n1050.
Decker, T., quoted, 315 n895
Defoe, quoted, 43 n140, 171 n503, 377 and n1111, 378, 379, 380 and n1119, 396, 397, 403; cited, 344
Delaney, Mrs., quoted, 120 n344, 121, 355; cited, 413 n1161
Denbert, Bishop of Durham, 6
Denmark cut-work of, 276, 277 embroidered tulle of, 229 grave-clothes, lace adorned in, 275, 366 and n1082 lace industry. (See also Schleswig and Tönder) export trade, 274 n736 lace postmen, 274, 277 origin of, 272 protected by Christian IV., 274 quality of lace, 275 Wulff's revival of, 276 and n739
Dennistoun, Mrs., 58-59, 487
Denny, Lady Arabella, 437, 438 and n1225, 439 and n1227
Dentelière, work of, 122
Dentelle, definition of term, 27 and n80
-------- à la Reine, 259 and n692
-------- à la Vierge, 220
"Dépit Amoureux" quoted, 32
Derby Alice, Countess of, effigy of, 321 n927
------, Lady, 342
------ rib, 448 n1239
Derbyshire, pillow lace made in, 393
Derode, V., quoted, 236 n630, n633
Desborough, lace industry of, 379
Desmarquets, cited, 219 n603
Desmond, Countess of, 437 n1222
Desnos, Joseph Odolant, quoted, on establishment of point d'Alençon, 155 n455
------, Odolent, quoted, on invention and establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157
Despierres, Mme., quoted, 157 n457, n458, 159 n464, 195 n557, 204 n571, 307; cited, 192 n552, 203
d'Este, Madame Anne Bellorio, 61 family, auctions of, cited, 46
Devonshire bone pins used in, 294 lace of. See Honiton, Trolly villages in, noted for lace-making in 1698, 403 n1143; those now engaged in, 403 n1147
----------, Duke of, coffin of, searched for lace, 360
----------, Duke of, Jacobite lace brought to, 426
Diamond lace, 299-300 and n818
"Diarium Vadstenoense" 278
Didot, F., 487
Dieppe cut-work, pall used in, 25 lace industry of, 218-220, 223
------ lace, 183 n539
Dieudonné-- quoted, 225 n613, 231; cited 237 n639
Dijon, Valenciennes made at, 255
Dike, Ric. 319 n918
Dinant muslin-work, 138 n392
Dinghen, Madame, 311
Doddridge, Lady, effigy of, 405
Doge's horn in Italian laces, 66
Dogs as lace-smugglers, 116 and n329
Dolls dressed in French fashions, 170 and n500, n501
"Don Quixote," cited, 98 n281
Donat, Père, 501
Donchéry lace, 254
Doran, Dr., anecdote related by, 186
Dorsetshire lace, 396-398; value of, 402
Dorstats, Madame Catherine von, 497
Douairière de la Ferté, Duchesse, 175-176
Double ground, 386
Douce, Mrs., cited, 500 n1366
Douglas, Bp., letters of, quoted, 265 and n720
Dover, refugee lace-makers at, 324 n935
"Down," 390
Draper, Mrs., 13
Drawn-work, method of, 25 Sicilian, 81 South American, 188 wire, 72
Dresden lace, 262, 263, 430 and n1207
Drocheleuse, work of, 122
Droschel, 119
Drouais, 168
Dryden, quoted, 425
Du Barry, Madame accounts of, quoted, 34 n106, 120 and n341, n343, n344, 126 n356, 129 n364, 162 n475, 168 n496, 175 n520, 178 n529, 181 n534, 195, 207 and n577, 231 and n621, n622, 233 n625, n626 Indian muslin bought by, 179 inventories of, quoted, 213 n592, 250 n666, n667
Du Haillan, 142 n408
Dublin Society, The, 429, 437-439
Dubois, C., cited, 137 n389, 138 n392
------, 468
Duchesse lace, 123
Dulaure, cited, 173 and n513
Dumont, manufactory of, 211
------, Mlle., 105 n312
Dunbar, Mrs., 443
Dunkirk, James II.'s cap in Museum at, 340 and n1004
Duponchel (Du Ponchel), 205, 207 n576
Dupont, M., cited, 204
Duras, Duc de, 207 n577
------, Duchesse de, 213 and n591
Duref Henri, cited, 247
Durham, St. Cuthbert's cope and maniple at, 7; his grave-clothes, 14, 15, 366
Durie, Lord, engraving of, 423
Dussen, B. v. d., cited, 133 and n378
Duthie, Mlle., 181
Duval, M., 224
Dysart, Countess of, 344 n991
"Each," 391
Eagle (French vessel), seizure of, 101
Earnings and wages of lace-workers Alençon, 192 Arras (1788), 239; (1851), 240 Bedfordshire, 377 blonde-workers, 225 Denmark (1848), 277 n741 Devonshire, 414, 416 n1168; Honiton, 407 and n1153 Dorsetshire, 398 Flemish thread-spinners', 119 France, average (1851), 257 n688; their savings, 159 n464 Genoa, 77, 78 Mechlin, 127 Mirecourt, 252 n675, 253 Normandy, 223, 228 n614 Northamptonshire (Spratton), 390 Scotland, 434 Spain, 102 Switzerland, 270 Val, 233, 234 n627 Vélay, 244 Ypres Valenciennes, 131 n373
Eaton, John, 336
------, Prestwick, letters from, cited, 98 n282
Ecclesiastical lace Athenian--for Jewish Church, 86 Burano school allowed to copy, 62 decline of, since the Reformation, 331 Greek, 83 Ionian, 86 Italian, 47 and n154 Katherine of Aragon's work of, 376 and n1108 Maltese, 88 Scotch, 418, 419 Spanish, 90, 92 washing of, 373 n1101
Ecouen lace, 210 n589
Eden, Mrs., 443
Edgithe, Queen, 6
Edict of Nantes, Revocation of effect on lace industry (France and other countries), 192, 212, 254, 258 settlement of fugitives in Germany, 264-265
Edinburgh Society for Encouraging the Arts and Manufactures of Scotland, 262, 263, 429, 430 and nn
Edward the Elder, daughters of, 6
Edward III. pins for his daughter's trousseau, 294 n794 thread veils of time of, 285.
Edward IV. Irish smock of, 436 wardrobe accounts of, quoted, 288
Edward VI., funeral lace of, 293
Effingham, Dowager Lady, 349
----------, Earl of, 364
Egenolffs, C., 470
Egyptians (Ancient), embroidery of, 1
Ekenmark, cited, 280 n748
Elberfeld, 265
Eleanor of Austria, 262 n701
Elgin marbles, designs in, 3
Elizabeth, Princess (wife of Elector Palatine), 71, 325
---------- of Austria (Elisabetta Borbona d'Austria), 495
---------- of Bohemia, 294 n794
---------- of Denmark, 272
----------, Queen anecdote referring to, 38, 297 cost of lace for revels at court of, 308 n871 cut-work of, 303-305 false hair of, 314 and n894, n895 foreign tastes of, 305, 307, 310 Irish at court of, 435 laces of, 299-300; lace made from human hair, 313; Genoa and Spanish lace, 307; parchment lace, 298; cost of lace furnished to, 308 New Year's gifts to, 294 n791, 295, 303 n833, 304 n834, n835, n836, n837, 307 and n862, 308 n867, n870, 310 n875, n876 old clothes of, presented to Anne of Denmark, 320 presents to, from Mary Stuart, 420 and n1184; from the Baroness Aletti, 421 n1187 ruffs of, 310-313; 316 n901 skill of, in needlework, 500 smock made by, 10 and n32; smocks of, 308, 408 stocking-frame inventor discouraged by, 448 n1240 wardrobe accounts of, cited, 72; quoted, 92, 98 n282, 297 and n811, 299 and n814, n815, n816, n817, 300-301 and n820, n821, n824, n826, 302 and n827, 304 n834, n838, 307 and n861, n865, 309 n873, 311 n880, 312 n882, 314 n895, 372 n1098
----------, reign of christening shirts and bearing cloths of, 308-309 habits of people in, 310 n877 importation of pins (annual) in, 294 n794 lace, use of, in, 300 laced handkerchiefs of, 310 and n874 measures against luxury of the people, 301 sumptuary laws, 306 and n855 value of lace and thread imported (1559 and 1568), 306 and n859 Venice lace of, 48 and n154
---------- of York, Queen, 9 n30, 48, 289
Elliott, Julian, 328
Embroider, Italian and Spanish term for, 45 and n147
Embroidery Anglo-Saxon, 5-7 Babylonian, Sidonian and Phrygian, 3 and n13 drawn-thread work, 25 ecclesiastical, 4-7. Egyptian, 1 Greek, 2, 3 and n8 Jewish, 2 Spanish, 103
Embroidered lace, Genoese, 77
Engageantes, 168
Enghien lace, 134
"Engines" for lace-making, 324 n935
England (for counties, towns, etc., see their titles) French fashions, method of obtaining, 170 frugality of nation, in Queen Elizabeth's reign, 310 n877 lace in account of (See also names of sovereigns), 285 et seq. date of establishment of industry, 286-288; origin of, 111; centres of, before 1665, 44 n144; impossibility of competing with Belgium, 138 earliest mention of, 285 Flanders, trade with (1768), 115; Flemish lace. See that title foreign, prohibited, 125, 289-290, 341, 347; imported, 245, 251, 288, 291 smuggling of. See that title Protestant refugees in, trades of, 297-298 Reformation, decline of ecclesiastical lace since, 331 sumptuary laws. See that title Vinciolo published in, 482
Engrêlure, 31, 168 n496
Entoilage, 30, 250
Épinal, 251
Equipage de bain, 168
Eric XIV. (Sweden), 307
Ericksholm, 280
---------- Castle, 279
Erikson, Gustaf, 280
Erzgebirge lace, 263
Essex, Earl of, 401
Este, Madame Anne Belloris, d', 61
---- family, archives of, cited, 46
Etrepagny lace, 213 n589
Eu lace, 183 n539, 218, 221-222
Eugénie, Empress, 198
Evans, Mrs., 308 n869
Evelyn, quoted, 13, 43, 168 n496, 338, 339; cited, 57
Exeter, Bishop of, 316
------, Elizabeth, Duchess of, 285 n755
Exhibitions Chicago World's Fair Honiton lace at, 416 n1169 Italian lace at, 46 n150 Colonial and Indian Exhibition (1886), Cyprian lace at, 82 Industry, 1808, point d'Argentan at, 208 (1851), Alençon flounce at, 197-198; lace industry developed since, 392 (1855) (Paris) Alençon point dress at, 198 equipage of King of Rome at, 196 needle-point dress at, 245 (1859) (French). Report--cost of Brussels lace, 119 n339 (1862) (International) Spanish exhibits at, 103-104 threads, comparative fineness of, 119 n339 Wadstena lace at, 280 1867 (Paris) Alençon point dress at, 200 Burano laces at, 58 Honiton lace at, 410 macramé shown at, 79 Mechlin lace at, 125 oyah at, 87 point gaze at, 123 Valenciennes lace at, 131 and n373 1874 (International) Austrian lace at, 268 Brussels lappet at, 411 Russian towels at, 283 Valenciennes lace at, 131 1889, point d' Alençon at, 201 1900 (Paris), 268
Eyesight, effect of lace-making on, 112 n324
Fairfax, Sir Thomas, 333
Fairs, 43 and n136, n137, n140, 326 n945
Falbala, 167 and n492
Falcon, T., 246
Fallals, 350 and n1043
Falling bands, 321 n928, 322, 326, 327, 334, 336
Fambri, Signor, 61
"Fameuse poupée," 170
Fanciulle, 462
Fanshaw, Lady, quoted, 333
Farbeck, John, 300
Favier-Duboulay, correspondence of, with Colbert, re lace industry at Alençon, 155 and n454, 189
Feather-stitch, 8
Fécamp lace, 218
Félibien, D. M., quoted, 141 n402
Félice, G. de, quoted, 150 n437
Félin Narciso, quoted, 91, 99
Felkin, Mr., cited, 447
Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 92, 93, 96
Feret quoted, 219 and n604
Ferguson, Mr., cited, 250 and n665
Fernandez, Don Manuel, 102
Ferrara archives of, quoted, 46 and n150 Venetian lace-worker at, 78 n243
Fielding quoted, 354 n1053
Filet brodé à reprises, 20
Fillesae, Marie, 157 n458
Fillings, 31
Filo di freta (See also Aloe thread), 79 n245
Firenzuola cited, 46 n152, 47, 57 n172; quoted, 66 and n207
Fisher, Bishop, 292
Fitz-Geoffrey (Geffery), Henry, quoted, 317 n908, 332
Flanders emigration of lace-makers from, preventive legislation, 111-112; emigrants in London, 373; in Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire, 375 and n1105; in Devonshire, 399 and nn, 400 n1140; expelled from England (1572), 306 lace. See Flemish lace. lace school in, description of, 114-115 Spanish imports of dentelles d'Angleterre from, 98 thread imported from, complaint regarding, 324 n935 water-glass reflectors used in, 390 n1125
--------, East, lace of, 133-134
--------, West lace workers of, 133 and n378 Valenciennes lace of. See Valenciennes Flax age of, 259 n697 cotton substituted for, 187 spinning of, in damp cellars, 405
Fleming, Lady, 10
Flemish lace. (See also Belgium and Brabant) arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 Barcelona lace imitated from, 91, 99 black lace exported, 117 n330 cargo of smuggling vessel (1678), 117 coffin containing, 61 Danish imitation of, 275 England bribes for Jacobites in, 351 n1045 exportation to, prohibited, 125, 341 fashionable in, 318, 325, 327, 340 imitations in, 384, 404; Honiton reproductions, 411, 416 trade with (1768), 115 France, popularity in (Louis XIV.), 150; trade (seventeenth century), annual value of, in passemens, 209 n583; prohibited, 142 importance of industry of, 111 Liège, 136-137 "Malines," a term for, 125 origin of, 109 types of, 115-116 white work, 294 and n791
Flemish names in Colyton (Devon), 403 n1145
Fleurens, 270
Fleury, Cardinal, quoted, 176
Florence gold lace from, Spanish exclusion of, 92 Greek lace made at, 85 industrial schools in, lace work of, 81 n248 lace industry of, account of, 66-68; "fine dantelle de," 27 Le Puy, imports from, 245 n657
Florentine merchants, allowed to trade in England (circ. 1546), 291
Florini, M., 488
Flying Postman advertisement in, 129
"Flys," 416 n1170
Foillet, J., 489, 490
Fonneuse, work of, 122
Fontange (Commode) "cock" the Scotch term for, 423 description of, 168 n486, 342, 350 n1043 extinction of mode, 166, 348 and n1035 story of, 164
Fontana, Lavinia, lace in picture by, 47 n153
Fontenay, lace, 212 n589
Fontenelle le Liqueur, 229 and n615
Fonthill, sale of lace at, 162 n475
Foote, quoted, 171 n503
Footing, 31, 168 n496
Forbes, Miss Betsey, 432 n1209
Forçade, M. de la, cited, 340 n1004
Force, P. de la, cited, 254 and n682
Foresto, I., 471
Fortunato, P. A., 500
Foskewe, Sir John, 22
Four P's, The, cited, 43 n139
Fournier, quoted, 209 n583
"Fourpenny Spot," 372 n1095
Fowke, Mr., cited, 6 and n23
Fowler, Mrs., lace school of, 416 and n1169
Fozzi, P. P., 491
France. For districts, towns, etc., see their titles bobbin net introduced into, 187 customs of French ladies, 168-170 états Généraux (1789), action of, regarding lace, 183 extravagant cost of lace ornaments (Louis XIV.), 153 Fairs in, 43 n136 Fashions fashion dolls, 170 and n500, n501 Italian influence on, 139 and n393 Louis XIV., under, 167 first appearance of lace in, 139 n393 First Empire Brussels lace at court of, 123 lace industry under, 184 morning costume under, 185 point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 Florentine lace used in (1545), 67 imports of lace from, to England, forbidden by Queen Anne, 347 Italian guipures exported to, 75 Italy, relations with (16th century), 476 lace industry in. See French lace industry lace-makers from, brought to teach Scotch girls, 428 ladies, addiction of, to needlework, 9, 24; as lace-makers, 163 men as embroiderers in, 13 point d'Espagne consumed in, 90; made in, 100 points de Venise from, 54 Quintain named from Brittany town, 19 lace industry improved by, 383 refugees from, to Channel Islands, 372 n1098; to England, 324 n935 Revolution in, effect of, on lace trade, 183 and n539, 223, 249, 368, 408 Second Empire, point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 Spanish imports of lace from, 101 sumptuary laws in, 138 and n354, n355, 147 and n429, 149, 154 and n451 tariff (1664), Liège lace mentioned in, 137 war with, effect of, on English lace industry, 386, 387 yellow starch, attitude towards, 318 and n909
France and Navarre, Queen of, pattern book dedicated to, 493
Franceschi, Francesco di, 475, 484
Francis I. Aurillac lace of, 247 pattern book dedicated to, 461
Frankfort-on-the-Maine fair at, 43 n136, 326 n945 pattern book published at, 267
Frano, G., 477
Frederick, Prince of Wales, 354
---------- IV., 274
---------- William of Brandenburg, 264
French lace industry centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 cheap lace, 187 and n546 Colbert's development establishment and history of the company (1668-1675), 157-158 establishment of point d'Alençon, 155-157 immigration of Venetian workers, 159 n465 principal centres, 159 n464 pupils sent to Venice, 154-155 and n454 First Empire, under, 184 foreign trade Bruges, annual value of, with, 241; with Flanders, 209 n583; Valenciennes trade with Belgium, 132 n376 Germany, with, 265 prohibition of, with Flanders, 142 rivalry of Holland in, 258 smuggling from Belgium, 116; from Switzerland, 270 statistics regarding (18th century), 160 n466 number of lace-makers in (present day), 188; table of (1851), 257 n688 Paris lace-workers, confirmation of statutes of, 150 n437 pattern books, 144 and n420, n421, n422, n423 patterns imitated in Denmark, 275 pillow lace manufacture, extension of (17th century), 159 point d'Espagne, 100 Protestants prohibited from selling lace, 150 n437 varieties of lace made in (1665), 33-35 width of lace restricted, 152-153
Freyburg, 268
Freytag, G., quoted, 265 n718
Friesland hens, ladies likened to, 342
Frondeurs, extravagance of, 150
Froschover, Christopher, pattern book of, 271
Fugio lace, 74
Fuller, quoted, 378, 401
Furnesse, Sir Henry, 344, 347
Fuseaux, dentelle à, 32 n98
Gabrielle de Bourbon, 8 n28
----------, Madame, 49, 142, 143 and n413, n414, n415
Gaguef lace, 281
Gan, Le, quoted, 24
Gantes, Mlles., 250
Garden, Lord, quoted, 119
Garnica, John de, 113 n325
Garnier, Joseph, cited, 255 n685
Garnitures de lit, 174 and n519, n520
Garters Queen Elizabeth's cost per pair, 301 trimmed with point, 145
Gaston, Duke of Orleans, 8 n27
Gaudronnées collerettes, 17
Geneva, rivalry of, with Mirecourt, 252
Genoa Albergo de' Poveri, macramé made at, 79 collars of, 74 earnings of lace-workers, 77, 78 embroidered lace of, 77; embroidered tulle, 229 gold work of, 47, 72 guipures of, 74 lace of Cardinal Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 Honiton reproduction of, 411 point de Gênes, 41, 42, 72, 73 and n230, 74 Queen Elizabeth's, 307 and n865 lace trade in, chiefly pillow, 47, 74; decline of, 74 silk work of, 72 sumptuary laws in, 73 Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225
Genoa, Duchess of, 78 n244
Gentili family, bridal veil made for, 78
Geometrical patterns cuffs of (Queen Mary's), 113 Cretan, 86 Greek lace, 20, 85 ruffs of, 316 Swedish, 25 Vecellio's, 111 Vinciolo's, 18
George I. Mechlin cravat of, 126 and n361 period of, 351-353 wardrobe account of, 240 and n645
------ II., period of, 354-357
------ III. English manufactures protected by, 359, 363 and n1068, 381 period of, 363-370 sponsor to children of aristocracy, 352 n1046
------ IV., wardrobe of, 364 n1073
Geharts, C., 501
Germany fairs in, 43 n136, n140 guipures imported into, 36 lace imported into, 245, 251, 254 lace industry centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 export trade with France, 265 North and South Edict of Nantes Revocation--emigration of fugitives into, 264-265 religion of lace-workers, 264 sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, 264 Nuremberg (See that title) origin of, 111 pattern-books, 266-268 Saxony (see that title) luxury, outbreak of, 265-266
Geslin, Simon, 193
Gespeldewerkte kant, 32 n98
Ghent lace Brussels lace compared with, 118 manufacture of, 133-134 trade replaced by cotton-weaving, 134 Valenciennes made at Ghent, character of, 231 n624
Ghisolieri, La Signora Silveria Rossi, 484
Gibbons, Grinling, lace carvings of, 367 and n1088
Gibson, Sir Alexander, engraving of, 423
------, Miss Mary, 438
Gigliucci, Countess, fragment of drawn work possessed by, 69
Gilbert, Madame, 155 and n455, 156, 157 and n458
Gimp Brussels lace, in, 406 method of making, 33 silk, at Ragusa, 84
Gioiello, 486
Giraldini, Catherina, 500
Gisors lace industry, 209, 213 n589, 215
Glairo, Mlle. U., 235
Glandore, Lord, 436
Glen, Jean de, 136, 482, 488 and n1338
----, Miss, 431 n1209
Gloucester, Duchess of, lace collection of, 369
Gloves, laced, 337 and n991
Goats' hair lace, 245
Godard, Jean, quoted, 24, 146 n425
Goderonné, term explained, 17 n57
Godric, 6
Gohory, Anne, 183 n540
Golbertain (Colbertine), 339 n996
Golconda, King of, 322 n928, 329 and n958
Gold lace (See also Aurillac lace) Arras, of, 240 England, imported to fifteenth-sixteenth centuries, 288, 289, 307 monopoly in, under James I., 318 prohibited, by Queen Anne, 349; by George II., 355 n1057; confiscation and burning of, 359 France, popularity in, 139, 141, 146, 154; of Paris, 211-212 Genoa, wearing prohibited in, 73 Hamburg, of, 264 Holland, introduction into, 259 India, imported into, 322 n928, 329 and n958 Ireland, importation to, prohibited, 439 Jewish manufacture of, 92 Lyons, of, 256 Ragusa, at, 84 Russia, of, 283 Scotland, wearing in, prohibited, 422 Sicily, of, 80 Spain, of, 92, 100-102, 248 Sweden, of, 280 Zurich, of, 271
---- guipure work, Swedish, 277-278
---- purles, 330
---- thread duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328 Italian (fourteenth century), 72
---- wire, protest by handspinners of, 335
Golden Horn, 273
Goldoni, cited, 57 n192
Goldsmith, quoted, 70 n218
Gomberdière, Marquis de la, quoted, 209 and n582
Gonzales, Don Manuel, cited, 380 and n1120, 403 n1146
Gooding, James, 413, 414
Gorget (whisk), 334
Gormont, 464
Goudronné, term explained, 17 n57
Gozo, Maltese lace made at, 88
Grafton, Duchess of, 344 n1021, 349 n1037
Gramite, 46 n150
Grammont lace, 134
Granada, lace alb in cathedral of, 92, 93
Granson, battle of, 111
Grave-clothes Duke of Alva's, 366 n1085 Ionian lace sold from, 86 lace decorations of, 365-367 St. Cuthbert's, 14, 15, 366
Gravelle, attempt to establish fabric by, 207
Great Marlow bone lace trade of, 319 lace school at, 378
Great Wardrobe Accounts, where kept, 299 n816
Greek lace. (See also Cyprus and Ragusa) Devonshire imitation of, 414 n1165 Italian cut-work so called, 20 Milan point, 65 reticella so called, 50, 85
Greeks (ancient), embroidery of, 2, 3 and n8
Green, quoted, 296
------ silk lace, 291 n783
Greene, Mrs., quoted, 321 n926
Gremial, 70 n217
Grey, Lady Jane, anecdote of, 38, 297
Grillé, 30 n89
Gripsholm, portrait of Queen Elizabeth at, 307
Gropari (punto a gropo), 52
Gros point de Venise. See Point de Venise, rose point
---- René, 32
Groslay lace, 210, 213 n589
Ground absent in certain laces, 31 kinds of, 30 round, 39
Gruner, Mr., cited, 476 n1316, 487 n1335, 489
Gruuthus mansion, collection at, 138
Gueuse, 33, 34, 41, 42
Guibray fair, 43 n136
Guipure Flemish, 123, 133 Genoese, 74 Honiton (modern), 409, 410 Maltese, 88 method of making, materials, uses, 35-40 modern, 39, 40 parchment lace probably English term for, 37-38 point de Venise, 49 tape, 39, 75 Turkish, 87
Gunning, Miss (Duchess of Hamilton), 425 n1199, 428, 429
Gurbert, cited, 219 n602
Gustavus Adolphus, 282
Gustaf Vasa, 279, 280
Guyard, Sieur Mathieu, 204-205
Guyenne, annual consumption of Le Puy lace in, 245 n657
Haag, cited, 265 n714, 269 n725
Haarlem thread, 216 n595, 223 n608, 245, 259 and n695, n697
Hailstone, Mrs., 23
Hainault, laces, 134 et seq.; lace flowers, 121
Hair false, of Queen Elizabeth's time, 314 and nn fashion of wearing, 341 lace made from, 313; horse-hair used in Alençon, 194; goats'-hair and rabbits'-hair lace, 245 wigs, 336, 349
Hal, flax grown at, 118
Haliwell, quoted, 297 n809
Halle lace, 265
Hamburg point, 264
Hamilton, Anne, Duchess of (Miss Gunning), 425 n1199, 428, 429
--------, Lady Jane, 123 n351
Hamilton lace, 430
-------- net-work (modern), 434 n1216
Hamlet on the French stage, 186
Hammond, machine-net invented by, 447
Hand, Mrs., 445
Handkerchiefs, laced, 310 and n874, 337
Hangkow, lace made in, 89
Hanmer, Sir Thomas, 349 n1037
Hanover fabrics, 265
Hanslope lace industry, 380 n1119
Harefield church, sculptured lace on effigy in, 321 n927
Harent, Ignace, 230
Harrison, Major, rich dress of, 333
Hartruide, Madame, 279
Hartshorne, Albert, cited, 321 n927
Hatfield, old needlework at, 11
Hathaway family, embroidered bed linen of, 325 n941
Hauslaub, General von, 263
Havre lace, 183 n539, 217 n595, 218; number of lace-makers (1692), 216, 218
Hay, Lord, 64
Hayman, Mrs., 410
Head, R. E., quoted, 391 n1127
Headdresses (See also Fontange) Louis XIV. styles, 164-166 mignonette lace used for, 35 prices of "heads," 348 Roman, 165 n486
"Heller," 391
Helmin, Fr. Margaretha, 502
Henderson, Anne, 430
Heneage, George, 346
Henrietta Maria inventory of, cited, 29 and n87, 146 n426 present from, to Anne of Austria, 330 and n961
Henry II. (England), 37, 202 and n569
-------- (France), introduces lace ruff, 139, 140 and n393, 262 n701
Henry III. (England), 37, 43; portrait in Pattern Book, 480
---------- (France), 140 and n396, 141
Henry IV. (France) fashion dolls sent by, to Marie de Médicis, 170 n501 Isle of Paris industry, probable connection with, 210 measures of, against luxury of dress, 141-142 and n405 shirt worn by, when assassinated, 142-143 and n412
------ VI., laces in fashion in time of, 286 and n761
------ VII., lace of time of, 288, 289 and n772
------ VIII. Act for the true making of pins, 294 n794 foreign lace allowed in England by, 67, 291 inventory of, cited, 372 n1098; quoted, 104 lace of, 64, 289, 291-292 and n772 sumptuary laws of, 436 and n1220 wardrobe account of, quoted, 289 and n768, n769
------, Prince (1607), 296 n798
Herault, Chancellor, 143 and n416
Herbert, Miss, 416
Herbouville, cited, 131 n371
Herculaneum, drawn wire lace found at, 72
Hergosse, M. de, 177 n525
Hesse, Landgrave, French fugitives received by, 265 and n711
Hieronimo, Fra., 469
High Wycombe, lace industry of, 380
Hippisley, Sir John Cox, quoted, 329; veil bequeathed to, 421
Hispano-Moresque point de Gênes frisé, 74
Hoche, General, 13
Hoffmann, Hans, 469
Holcroft, Mr., 169 n499
Hölesom, 280
Holidays in Roman Catholic countries, 102 n302
Holland Dutch extravagance in lace, 260 Haarlem thread, advantage of, to, 259 and n695, n697 lace imported into, 251, 254 lace industry in, 258-260 and n689 rivalry with French lace trade, 258
Hollie work, 325 and n939
Hollow lace, 299 and n816
Holme, Randle, cited, 31, 344; quoted, 251, 296 n799, 339
Holstein, daughter of Duke John of, 275
Holyrood Palace, lace trimmed basket in, 420
Honfleur lace, 183 n539, 218
Honiton, lace school at, 414
-------- lace account of, 399-411 bobbins and pillows used in, 415 n1166 Bruges lace a rival to, 133 guipure, 40 Indian contrasted with, 89 Japanese imitations of, 417 point duchesse compared with, 123
-------- lace-makers, skill of, 417 n1171
Hope, Sir Thomas, portrait of, 423
Horsehair used in making Alençon, 194
Hôtel Rambouillet, dressed dolls of, 170
Hove, Callys de, 306
Howel's Letters, quoted, 317 n906
Hubert, Soeur, cited, 220 n606
Hugo, Victor, quoted, 135, 164; cited, 136 n384
Humphrey, Thomas, 401
Hungarian lace, 268
Hungerford, Sir Edward, 395
Hunt, Susanna, 438
Hurdle, Mary, 395
Hutchins, quoted, 396 n1133
Hutchinson, Colonel, 333
----------, Mrs., Memoirs of, cited, 12
Hutton, Sir Timothy, 71
Iberian lace, 104
Ile de France. See Isle de France
India lace exported to, 241, 251, 253, 322 n928, 329 and n958 pillow-laces of, 88 and n263, 89
India Museum, pillow laces in, 89
Indian muslin, 179-180
------ work of Denmark, 275
Innishmacsaint, 446
Innocent IV., Pope, 7
Inquisition, lace-trimmed banner of, 100
Insertion, 388
Ionian Isles lace manufacture of, 85 lace from tombs of, 365
Ipsden, Vicar of, MS. in possession of, 286 n761
Ireland Bath and Shirley School, 440 club against "foreign fopperies," 438 Dublin Society, the, 429, 437, 439 lace industry in, 436-446; Maltese guipures made in, 88; Irish point, 443 and n1233 prize offered by, for Dresden point, 262 sumptuary laws in, 435, 436 and n1220 yellow dye of, 307, 435, 436
Iron Mask, 166 n490
Isabella, Infanta, 113
--------, Princess (Sweden), 279 n746
"Isabelle" tint, 121
Ischia lace, 71, 263 and n705
Isle de France lace industry in centres of (17th century), 209 and n582, 210 Chantilly, 212-215 cheap laces, 210 Dumont's fabric, 211 Huguenots engaged in, 209 Spanish imports of lace from, 99
Israel, J., 469
Italians, dishonesty of, in lace trade (Henry VII.'s time), 48, 67, 288
Italy (For towns, etc., see their titles) France, relations with, 16th century, 476 invention of lace claimed by, 109; of point lace, 45 lace imported by, 245, 251 n670 lace of (See also Point and Punto) centres of manufacture before 1665, 44 n144 England, fashionable in, 318; imitated in, 416 n1169, 417 Greek lace manufacture, centres of, 85 Points in relief of, counterfeits of, 105 Spanish point attributed to, 93, 97 lace schools of, 81 n249 revolutions in, lace seized during, 51 and n175 silk gimp specimens from, 85 Swiss lace from, origin of, 269 white thread made in, 49 n165
Jabot, 172
Jacobites, 425, 426
James I. gold purle manufacture prohibited by, 319 and n921 Great Wardrobe Account, 311 n878, 317 and n903, 318 nl7 Honiton lace industry in time of, 401 lace of, 64 monopolies granted by, 318-319, 378 period of, 315-326 ruffs under, 315-318
------ II. Edinburgh visited by, 425 period of, 340
------ V. (of Scotland), 372 n1098, 418 and n1172
------ VI. (of Scotland), 422 and n1195
------, Jacques, 205
Jane Seymour, 292
Japan, Honiton lace imitated in, 417
Jean lace. See Genoa lace
Jerphanion, Sieur, 244
Jersey, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097
Jesuit lace, 445 and n1234
Jesuits, inventory of, cited, 331
Jesurum, Cav. Michelangelo, 62
Jew stick, 491 and n1349
Jewellery of 18th century, 346
Jews Athenian lace used by, 86 embroidery of (ancient), 2 gold and silver lace made by, 92 and n270
Jingles of bobbins, 391 n1127
Johan Adolf, Prince, 282
Johnson, Dr., quoted, 367
Jointeuse, work of, 122
Jolly, Margareta, 348
Jonson, Ben, quoted, 43 n139, 302, 313 n890, 316 and n922, 318 n910, n912, 327
Josephine, Empress, 123 n351, 177 n526
Jours, 31
Judith of Bavaria, 5
Junius, Hadrianus, 114 n327
Junot, Madame. See Abrantès, Duchesse d'
Jurdaine, Mary, 306
Jutland lace industry, 274
Katherine of Aragon, Queen Bedfordshire lace-industry attributed to, 375 and n1106, n1107, 376 needlework of, 9, 10 and n32 portrait of, 129 n367 Spanish fashions introduced by 10 n32, 310
----------, Queen (wife of Charles II.), 43
---------- Parr, Queen, 10 n34
Keck, 423
Keller, Dr. Ferd, 270 n728
Kenmare, lace industry of, 443, 444
Kennedy, Tristram, 440
Kettering, lace industry of, 384
Killigrew, quoted, 318 n908
Kilravock, Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of, 425 n1198
Kinsale, lace industry at, 422 n1187
Knight, cited, 396
------, Miss, quoted, 264
Knole, old needlework at, 11
Knotted fringe, 13 and n47
-------- lace, 52, 68
Knox, Miss Jane, 438
Koehler, statuette by, 262
Königsmarck, Aurora, lace in tomb of, 366
La Boord, Madame, 43
La Chaise-Dieu, lace industry at, 249
"La Fontange," story of, 164
La Mancha, lace factory at, 102
La Motte, Maréchal, 29, 126 and n357
La Perrière, 155 n454, 157 n458
"La Providence" nuns, 226
La Vallière, 154, 464 n1280
Laborde, cited, 151 n438
Lace (See also Old lace) Biblical meaning of term, 2 definition of term, 26 foreign equivalent of term, 26 n77 manufactures of, before 1665, 44 n144 parts of, 30 point and pillow, 32
---- Association, aims of, 393
Laced handkerchiefs, 310 and n874
Lace-makers, ill-health of, 415
Lacis Aurillac, 248 book of (1587), 18 definition of, 20 and n61, 21 Don Quixote, mentioned in, 98 n281 German, 264 Punto a maglia quadra, 52 Sicilian, 81 Tuscan, 68
Ladies as lace-makers, 163, 337, 355, 373, 374 and n1103
Ladomie, M., cited, 170 n501
Laffemas, quoted, 209 n583
Laid work, 301
Laimoxen, Balthasar, 489
Lalande, cited, 64
Lalma, 246
Lamb represented in lace, 21
Lamballe, Princesse de, 213
Lappets. See Barbe
Larkin, Thomas, 312
Laroche, lace made at, 137
Larruga, cited, 101
Lassels, cited, 70; quoted, 73
Latomus, Sigismund, 267, 491, 492
Lauber, Miss Jacobina, 282
Laulne, E. de, 476
Launceston, lace-making at, 371 n1094
Laval, Geneviève, 183 n540
Laybach, 268
Le Prince, 465
Le Puy lace industry of cheap laces, 246 descriptions of lace of, 245 export trade, 245; value of annual export, 245 and n657 Haarlem thread used in, 245 import duties decreased, 244 and n653 numbers employed in, 242; (1851), 257 n688; in making Valenciennes, 245 sumptuary laws (seventeenth century), effect of, on, 243 lace schools of, 246 and n659 museum at, 246 Valenciennes lace at, 230 and n619
Le Quesnoy lace, 157 n459, 230
Lead, bobbins made of, 74 n235
Leber, M., cited, 487 n1336
Lee, Rev. William, 448 n1240
Lefébure, A. blondes mates exported by, 226 point d'Argentan revived by, 208 quoted, 75 n237, 155 n453, 158 n463, 159 n464, 194, 200; cited, 228, 250, 269 n724 teaching improved by, 227
Leicester, Countess of, 330
Leipsic, fair, 196 and n563; fabrics (1685), 265
Lennox, Countess of, 314
------, Duke of, 419 and n1176
Léonard, 181
Lepage, M., 134
L'Estoille, P. de, quoted, 141 n399
L'Estrange, Sir Thomas, 290
Letters of a Lady's Travels in Spain, quoted, 97-98
Leu, Sieur de la, manufactory of, 205-206
Liedts, Baroness, 138
Liège lace account of industry, 136-137 point de Sedan, connected with, 254 price of (1701), 136 n386
Lierre Mechlin lace made at, 125 pictures in St. Gomar, 109 n317
Light reflectors, bottles used as, 390 and n1125
Liguria, guipures of, 74
Lille lace compared with Spanish lace, 103; with Arras, 235, 240; with Valenciennes, Brussels and Mechlin, 237 cost of thread, 237 and n637 England, popularity in, 237 and n640; Bedfordshire lace called "English Lille," 385 ground, 236-237 modern, 238 lace-industry antiquity of, 235 decline of, 238 dress of lace-makers, 235 and n630 French duty on lace (1761), 237 n635 mignonette made (1665), 35 numbers employed in (1723), 237 n640; (1788), 238, 257 n688 rivalry with Mirecourt, 252 value of (1788), 238 lace-workers, daily amount produced by, 233 thread, fineness of, 119 n339; price of, 192 n553, 237 and n637; export of, to Scotland, 432
Limerick lace, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231, n1232; lace school, 442
Limousin, 250
Lincoln, maiden assize at, 338 n991
Linen embroidery of, 14 macramé, 79 and n248
Lisbon, lace factories at, 105
Lisle, Lady, 290 and n780
Loch, David, quoted, 433 and n1214; cited, 434
Locke, quoted, 430
Loisel, Franç., Phelyplaux, 125 n354, 174 n520
Lombard peasants, lace worn by, 64
London foreigners in (1571-1688), 129 n366, 299 n817, 306 and n853; complaint of women against introduction of foreign merchants, 286; complaints against foreign lace-makers, 324 n935 lace-making in, 373
------, Bishop of, sermon by, against ruffs, quoted, 316 and n899
------ Chronicle, cited, 4
------ Gazette, quoted, 11 n39, 126
Long Island, lace-making by Protestant settlers in, 372 n1099
Lonlay, Eugène de, cited, 208
Lonrai (Lonray), lace factory at, 155 n455, 156 and n457; sale of stock, 196
------, Marquise de, 157 n457
Lord Thomas (ballad), quoted, 15
L'Orme, Marion de, quoted, 125
Lorraine, lace industry (see also Mirecourt), 251 and n672, n673; Mignonette made (1665), 35; numbers employed (1851), 257 n688
--------, Queen Louise de, 144
Lost property, advertisements for, 337 and n990, 338 and n992, 342 n1010
Loucelles, Abbé Suhard de, 226
Loudun, 256
Louis XI., 139 n393
------ XIII. collar made at Venice for, 194 death of, 149 Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618 luxury and fashions of time of, 144-147
------ XIV. census of (1684), 131 cravats presented to ambassadors by, 163 death of, effect on Alençon industry, 192 fashions of reign of, 161 et seq. fête at Marly, 163 Flemish conquests of, 230 and n618 gold and silver lace of period of, 154 Paris lace commerce under, 211 sumptuary laws of, 152
------ XV. Court of, 172 and n505 fashions under black lace masks, 177 jabots, 172-173 mourning, 178 relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174 ruffles, 171-173 point d'Alençon patterns under, 198-199 and n566 trousseau of eldest daughter of, 176
------ XVI. fashions under, 179-181 phraseology of time of, 181 point d'Alençon patterns under, 199 and n566 ruffles of, 172 n508
Louisa, Queen (Sweden), 279
Louise de Vaudemont, Queen, 18, 478, 480
Louvain, pictures and altar piece at, 109, 110 and n317
--------, Widow, attempt of, to establish manufacture at Mortagne, 206
Louvres, lace-making at, 209
-------- en-Parisis lace, 212 n589
Lovat, Lady, 426 n1202
Low Countries. See names of countries
Lowndes, cited, 497 n1360, 500
--------, Richard, 380
Lubec, 264
Lucca, gold lace, 92
Lude, Duchesse de, 167 and n495
Luxada, cited, 75
Luxembourg, M. de, 167
----------, Maréchale de, 180
Luynes, Duc de, Memoirs of, quoted, 174 and n518, 176 n522
Luzarches lace, 212
Lydgate, quoted, 305
Lygum Kloster, 274 n736, 276 n738
Lyme Regis, lace industry of, 396-398
Lyons lace, 256
Lysons, cited, 384, 396; quoted, 405, 408
Mabbie, 423
Macaulay, John, 439 n1227
McCulloch, cited, 384
----------, E., cited, 224 n610
McCullow, Miss Martha, 438
Mache, 22 n70
Machine net, introduction of, 408
Machinery--"engines" of foreigners for lace-making, 324 n935
Maclean, Rev. William, 442, 443
McPherson, quoted, 112 n324
Macramé, 52, 79 and n247
Madden, Sir Fred., quoted, 297 n812
Madeira, laces of, 106, 107 and n316
Madras, Maltese-like lace made in, 88 n263
Madrid, lace factory at, 102
Magnus, Prince (Sweden), 280
Maidstone, complaints of, regarding imported Flemish thread, 324 n935
Mailly, Madame, 250
Maine, Madame de, 167
Maintenon, Madame de, 168, 183; letter to, quoted, 99; lace factory of, 163; letter from, quoted, 172 and n506
Malcontent, quoted, 322
Malines exhibition, voile de bénédiction at, 195 n561, 251 n674
-------- lace. See Mechlin lace
Malta, grave-clothes lace-trimmed at, 365
Maltese lace account of industry, 87 and n262, 88 Danish manufacture of, 275 English manufacture of, 392, 393, 414 n1165 Greek lace similar to, 86 Guipure, 40 Madeira manufacture of, 107 n316 Saxon manufacture of, 263
Man, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1096
Manchester thread, 119 n339
Manchettes. See Ruffles
Manegetti di ponto Fiamengo, 111
Manilla grass thread-work, 89 n265
Mantegna, Andrea, 467
Mantillas, 226
Manzoni, Count, cited, 488 n1340
Mar, Countess of, 419 and n1176
Marcello, Countess Andriana, 61
Marche lace, 68, 138 n392
Marcq, Catherine de, 157 n458, 158 n460, 190
Mare, de la, cited, 148 n431, 152 n440
Margaret of Austria, 23 n74
Margherita, Queen of Italy, 61, 62
Margot, Reine, 11, 22, 49, 141, 142
Marguerite de France, 11 n36, 22, 27, 33 n102
Maria d'Aragon, portrait of, in pattern book, 497
------ Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, 491
Marie Antoinette autograph letter, referred to, 213 fans and laces distributed by, 180 fashion at court of, 179-180 gazette of (1782), 181 n537 point de Marli worn by, 225 sale of lace of, 183
------ Louise, Brussels lace presented to, 124; lace trousseau of, 184, 196
------ Theresa, 259 and n699
Marnef, Hierosme de, 496
Marillac, Maréchal de, 147 n428, 265 n715
Marini, cited, 58
Marlborough, lace industry at, 395
Marli, 180 and n532
Marly, fête at, 163
Marriott, William, 380
Marryat, Captain, cited, 413; lace industry assisted by, 410
--------, Mrs., 500 n1365
--------, Miss Cecilia, 410
Marsan, Comte de, 210 and n585
------, Mlle. de, 211
Mary, Princess, daughter of George II., 348
---- I. accounts of, quoted, 297 gift of Spanish work to, 10 n32; Flanders work to, 294 interment of, 180 present to Lady Calthorpe, 297 ruffs of, 310 sumptuary laws, 293
---- of Burgundy, 135
----, Queen of Hungary, 113
---- de Médicis collarette of, 143-144 death of, 149 fashion dolls sent to, 170 n501 pattern book dedicated to, 22, 494 point de Gennes of, 72 sumptuary law published by, 144 and n419; evaded by, 149 and n434
Mary of Modena, Queen, 341, 425
---- II. fontange of, 342 knotted fringe worked by, 13 and n47 lace bills of, quoted, 168 n496 Mechlin ruffles of, 126 and n364
---- Stuart dentelle of, 27 finery of, overhauled by Elizabeth, 307 and n860 guipures of, 37 and n120, 38 inventories of, cited, 21, 33 n102, 302 n828, 314, 325 n939, 372 n1098 needlework done by, 10, 11, 420, 421 ruff on effigy of, 316 n901 wardrobe of, 419 and n1177, 420 and n1182, 421 will of, 22
Masch (Mawsch) 22 and n70, 419
Massillon, encouragement of lace industry by, 243
Massimo, Prince, reference to library of, 466, 468 n1290, 495 n1357
Massinger, quoted, 265 n717, 296 and n804
Matignon, Mlle, de, 176
Matilda, Empress, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 n22
--------, Queen, Bayeux Tapestry ascribed to, 6 and n23
Matsys, Quentin, 109, 110
Matthew of Paris, anecdote by, 7
Maximilian, King of the Romans, 289
Maynard, Mrs. Lydia, 404
Mayne, Jasper, quoted, 317 and n905, 324 and n936
Mazarin, Cardinal, 143 n412, 150, 151 and n439, 248
Mazzarine, 343 and n1017
Mechlin lace arrêt concerning (1688), 129 n365 "Broderie de Malines" a term for, 125 characteristic of, 31, 125 compared with Bayeux lace, 228; with Brussels, 118; with Cretan mesh work, 87; with Lille, 237; with point de Dieppe, 218; with St. Trond, 137; with Valenciennes, 233 decline of manufacture, 125 description of, 124-125 earliest references to, 125-126 English fashion for, 126 grounds in, 125 imperial layette (1856), in, 198 Lille, pattern adopted at, 238 points de France rivalled by, 177-178 Pope's apron bordered with, 70 Turnhout manufacture of, 125, 131 uses of, 127-128 varieties included by term (1665), 35
---- net, 448
Medici collars, 56
Médicis family (See also Katherine and Mary), influence on fashions, 139
Melville, Sir Robert, 37
Memoirs of Madame Palatine, cited, 354
Men as lace workers Chili, 108 England, 392; south, 371 n1092; Northamptonshire, 385; Devonshire, 413, 414 France, 155 Madeira, 107 n316 Normandy (soldiers), 225 Saxony, 263 work of, compared with that of women, 263
Menin lace, 232 n624
Menzikoff, Prince, funeral of daughter of, 366 n1083
Meran blonde, 256
Mercier, Baron, lace school of, 196
----, S., quoted, 121 and n348, 170 n500, 171 and n502
Méric lace, 212
Merli, Cav. Antonio, cited, 46 and n150, 47, 50, 462, 466, 468 n1291, n1292, 487
Merli à piombini, 32 n98
Mermaid's lace, 49
Meshes, Cretan skill in, 86
Messina, lace work at, 81
Metal laces, Sicilian, 86
Mexico, mantillas exported to, 226
Meyer, Daniel, 496
Mézières lace, 183 n539, 253, 254
Mezzo punto, 58
Michel, Francisque, cited, 104; quoted, 251 n669
----, Pfarrer, 266
Michele, La Sig. Gabriella Zeno, 484
Middleton, quoted, 312 n884
Mignerak, Milour, pattern book of, 21, 22, 29, 493
Mignonette, 34 and n107, 35 and nn, 210, 237, 251
Milan Albissola lace bought for Napoleon I.'s coronation at, 78 Cantu the centre of lace of, 66 cathedral, lace camicie in underground chapel of, 66 early record of Italian lace belonging to, 63 Genoese lace contrasted with lace of, 75 n236 Greek lace made at, 85 Old Milan point, 65 punto di Napoli contrasted with point of, 71 réseau of points of, 66 wire lace industry at, 72
Milward & Co., 380
Minas Geraes, lace of, 108
Minifie, Mrs., 400 and n1140, 401 and n1142
Mirecourt lace, 212, 238, 251-253, 257 n688
Misson, F. M., cited, 54 n186; quoted, 267
Mitchell, Mr. and Mrs., advertisement of school of, 431 n1209
Modano, Tuscan, 52, 68
Modène, Duchess of inventory of, quoted, 120 n344, 121 n347, 128 n363, 135 and n383, 175 n520, 213 and n590 ruffles of, 233
Modes, 31
Molière, quoted, 152, 153 n442, 173 n515
Mompesson, Sir Giles, 318 and n914
Monaghan, crochet industry of, 444, 445
Moncrieffe, Sir Thomas, 425
Monks, needlework done by, 12 and n40
Mons lace, 134-135
"Monsieur de Paris," 173
Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 57, 59, 73; quoted, 128, 356 and n1061
Montague, Mrs. Elizabeth, quoted, 352
---- R., account entry by, 335 n982
Montargis, 256
Montbéliard, pattern-book published at, 28
Montchrestien, cited, 209 n583
Monteagle, Lord, 10 n32
Monteleon, Princess of, 98
Monthulay, family, 204
---- Sieur de, 205, 206
Montmorency, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589
Montrose, pearlin of, 423
Moorish lace, 104
Moors, Spanish lace-making attributed to, 45
Morant, Captain, 440
More, Mrs. Hannah, quoted, 368
Moreau, General, 13
Moretti, Nicolo, 484
Morgan, cited, 435
---- Sydney, Lady, 369
Morges lace, 212 n589
Morin, M.A., cited, 220 n606
Mortagne, 206
Moryson, Agnes, quoted, 55, 70, 73, 87, 258, 265, 268, 274
Moscow, lace school at, 284
Motteville, Mme., quoted, 154 n447
Mountague, Alice, 308
Mourning, lace discarded in, in James I.'s time, 324
Murat, Caroline, 183
---- laces, 248, 249
Mzeresk lace, 283
Nanduti, 108
Nani, Signora Viena Vendramina, 485
Nankin silk thread, 223 n608
Naples Greek lace made at, 85 lace from a palace at, 51 n175 lace of, 70-71; lace work of industrial school at, 83 n352
Napoleon bed made for, 196 favourite laces of, 128, 184 lace industry encouraged by, 123-124, 183-185, 196; attempt to revive Valenciennes, 231.
Nardendal, custom of natives of, 283
National Gallery portraits, illustrations of ruffs in, 316 n901
Navarre, Queen of, accounts of, quoted, 67, 141 n406, 142 n409, n411
Needle lace (See also Point à l'aiguille) Alençon known as "needle-point," 195 Irish, 443 method of making, 32 Queen Elizabeth's, 305
Nelson, Lord, anecdote of, 264
Nemours, Duchesse de, 235
Nesmond, Marquis de, 117 and n331
Netherlands. See Flanders, Belgium, Holland and Brabant
Netting, 20, 21, 52; machine net, 408
Neufchâtel lace industry, 270 and n726
Neville, Mary, marriage clothes of, 291 n779
New Ross convent, lace made at, 444
Newport Pagnel lace, 375 n1105, 378, 382, 384
Newton, Rev. John, letter from Cowper to, 379
Nicholas, Edward, 329 n957
-------- Susanne, 329 n957
Nichols, quoted, 294 n791, 303 n833
Nicolas, Etienne, 160 n466
Night caps, 323
Noailles, Madame de, anecdote of, 180 n533
Normanby, Lady, 441
Normandy lace industry of. (See also Calvados and Dieppe) centres of, 216, 218 French Revolution, effect of, 223 mignonette made (1665), 35 numbers employed in different localities, 228 n614; (1851), 257 n688 value of, 228 n614 peasant women, Valenciennes bought by, 235
Norris, Sir Henry, 307
Northamptonshire lace, 384-393
Nosegays, lace trimmings for, 55
Nottingham lace, 441; Isle of Wight lace compared with, 372 n1097; machine-made blondes, 225; imitation mantillas, 227
Novgorod, fabric at, 283
Nuns, lace washed by, 373 and n1101
---- as lace-makers Flanders, 354 Italy, 47 and n154; Burano, 58; Florence, 67, 68; Cantu, 80 Portugal, 105, 107 Spain, 93
Nuremberg, 266, 267
Oberkirch, Baroness de, extract from Memoires of, 182
O'Brien, Mrs. R. V., 442
O'Hagan, Mother Abbess, 443
O'Halloran, Mr., 436
Old lace indifference to, 368 and n1090 mania for, 369 restoration of, 411, 412
Oldfield, Mrs., 367
Olney, lace industry of, 378, 380 n1119
Opus tract, 302
Orfreys, 3 n13
Orléans, Duchesse d', quoted, 166 n489
-------- Dukes of, inventories of, quoted, 120 n342, n344, 221 and n607
Orléanois lace industry, 256
Orsa lace, 281
Ostans, Giovanni, 484
------ Jean, 475
Oudenarde lace, 134
Our Lady of La Solidad, costly robes of, 90
--- ---- of Loreto, laces of, not described, 69
Overbury murder, 317
Oxford, opinion of, on falling bands, 326
------ Countess of, 9 n31
Oyah (Turkish crochet), 45, 87
Pagan, Mathio, 468, 471
Paganino, Alessandro, 468
Paganinus, P. A., 472
Paget, Lady, 295
Pagodes, 168 n496
Paintings, earliest in which lace occurs, 47; lace in paintings of 18th century, 222, 364
Palatine, Count, 326
-------- Madame, 168; Memoires of, quoted, 178
Pale of rose point, 51 and n174
Palermo grave clothes at, 366 and n1081 sculptured lace in villa near, 71
Palestine, lace-making at, 59 and n195
Pandore, la grande, 170
Parasole, Elisabetta Catanea, 495
-------- Isabella Catanea, 491, 496
Parchment lace, 37 and n122, 38 and n126, n129, n131, 297, 298
Paris churches, lace of, 120 n342, 161 n467, n469 English laces in demand at (1788), 368, 379 exhibitions. See under Exhibitions lace industry Binche and Mirecourt flowers applied at, 212 Bisette made (1665), 33 and n102 commerce of lace under Louis XIV, 211 and n587 Dumont's fabric, 211 factories round, 209 guipures made (1665), 36 and n114 mignonette made (1655), 35 numbers employed (1851), 257 n688 passementiers privileged in, 44 pattern books in, 12 and n43
Parisini, Agostino, 477
Partlet, 297 n810
Pasax, Marquis de, 190
Pasini, Tomaso, 483
Pasment in Scotland, 418
Pasolini, Countess, 81 n248
Passament (passement) definition of term, 26 and n79, 27 guipure a kind of, 36 references to, 27-29
"Passement Bond, The," 419
Passerotti, Aurelio, 472
Pattern-books Belgium Antwerp (n. d.), 130, 463 Liège (1597), 136, 488 cut-works, of (1591), 20 n62 earliest dated, 18; earliest known, 376 n1108 England London (1591), 482; (1624), 497; (1632), 499; (1640), 500 Northampton, 384 France Lyon (n. d.), 92 n269, 465, 466; (1549) 92 n269, 144, 464; (1581), 475 Mignerak's, 21, 22, 29, 144, 493 Montbéliard (1598), 28, 489, 490 Paris, in Bibliothèque Impériale, 12 n43; in St. Geneviève's library, 12; (n. d.), 468; (1530) 144, 461; (1546), 464; (1564), 475; (1584), 476; (1587), 17, 18, 477; (1587, 1588, 1595, 1606), 479-481; (1601), 20 n62, 490; (1605), 493; (1613), 494; (1623), 498; (1722), 501 Germany Augsburg (1534), 267, 462 Cologne (1527), 268, 459 Frankfort (n.d.), 470; (1537), 470 Frankfort-on-the-Maine (1568, 1569, 1571), 470; (1605), 267, 491; (1607), 492; (1618), 496 Leipsic (1619), 496 Lindau am Bodensee (n.d.), 488 Nuremberg (n.d.) 502; (1597), 489; (1601, 1604), 266, 490; (1666), 501; (1676), 501 Nuremberg and Leipzig, (1784), 501 Strasburg (1556), 469 gold and silver lace, of, 92 Italy Bologna (n.d.), 477; (1591), 483 Florence (1596), 488 Padua (1555), 469; (1604), 491 Pistoja (1642), 53 n181, 85, 92 n269, 500 Rome (1616), 495; (1625), 496 Siena (1603), 488 Turin (1589), 481 Venice (n.d.), 466, 471, 498; (1529), 461; (1530), 53 n179, 460; (1532), 462; (1537), 462; (1542), 463; (1543, 1544), 464; (1548), 53 n179, 468; (1551), 468; (1556), 469; (1557), 472; (1558), 471; (1559), 92 n269, 471, 472; (1560), 473; (1563), 474; (1564), 53 n179, 54 n182, 474, 475; (1567), 475; (1584), 476; (1591), 53 n179, 54 n182, 484; (1592) (Corona of Vecellio), 50 n167, 54 n182, 484; (1594), 486; (1600), 68, 491, 496; (1620 and 1625), 54 n182, 497 Samplars a substitute for, 22-23 Switzerland Basle (1599), 271, 490 St. Gall (1593), 271, 487 Zurich, 271, 469 unknown points in, 54 n182 Vienna Museum, in, 263
Pauline, Princess, 184, 185
Pays de Caux, 216
Peacham, quoted, 325, 329
Pearl (picot), 31
------ ties, 31
Pearlin, 422, 423
Pedlars, lace trade carried on by, 43 and n139, 44 and n142, n143
Pelegrin, Francisque, pattern book of, 144, 461
Pelican represented in lace, 21
Pellestrina, revival of pillow lace at, 62
Pembroke, Countess of, 322, 500
Peniche bobbins used at, 106 n314 lace industry of, 107 and n315
Pennant, quoted, 382; cited, 431 n1208
Penne, Mrs., 294
Penshurst, old needlework at, 11
Penthièvre, Duc de Eu lace patronised by, 221 inventory of, quoted, 117 n333, 195 n549 wardrobe account of, quoted, 172 and n510, n511, 211 n588
Peplos, embroidery of, 3 n8
Pepys' Diary, quoted, 153 n444, 337, 338
Persia, drawn-work of, 45
Peru and Mexico, lace imported to, from Le Puy, 245
Perugia, Torchon made at, 81 n248
Peter the Great, 283
Petersen, Anders, 280
Petre, Madame, of Gefle, information supplied by, 282 n750
Peuchet, cited, 132, 224, 256, 265, 377, 395; quoted, 216 n595, 218 n600, 220 n605, 225, 237 n640, 239, 244, 245 and n657, 268, 396, 432
"Pharsalia" quoted, 25
Philip II. (Spain), 67, 310
------ III. (Spain), 97
Philippa, Queen, 278, 285 and n754
Philippine Islands, Manilla grass threadwork of, 89 n265
Phrygians, embroidery of, 3 and n13
Pianesani, Francesco, 462
Picard, M., 490 n1346
Picchetti, Marie, 79
Pichon, Baron J., 482, 493 n1355, 495 n1356
Pickleman, Jungfrau, 266
Pickpockets, 346
Picot (pearl), 31 and n92
Pigott, Miss, quoted, 421
Pillows Barcelona, 103 n305 description of, 391 foreign names for, 32 n99 Honiton, 415 n1156
Pillow guipure, 116
------ lace (bobbin lace) Austrian, 268 bobbin lace, so called 32 Ceylon, of, 88 foreign names for, 32 n98 France, extension of industry in (seventeenth century), 159; trade crisis (1818), 187; fabric at Château de Madrid, 210 n584; gold lace of Paris, 212; first mentioned in French pattern-books, 494 Genoese, 74 Germany, introduction into, 260 Madeira, at, 107 Mechlin. See that title method of making, 32-33 origin of, 29, 109 Peniche, at, 107 Russian, 283 and n751 Spanish, 103 n305 Valenciennes. See that title
------ net, 150
------ -beres, 16 and n56
Pin net machine, 448
Pinheiro, Dona Maria Bordallo, letter from, quoted, 107 n315
Pins for lace-making, 391 and n1126; State papers concerning, 294 n794
Pinwork lace, 294 n794
Piper Countess Elizabeth, 280
Pisa, lace work of industrial school at, 81 n248
Pitt, French fashions excluded by, 170
Pizzo, 74
Plaited laces, 392
Platteuse, work of, 122
Plissés à la vieille, 127
Pluymers, Jean, 158 n460
Point (stitch), kinds of, 32
------ lace invention of, claimed by Italy, 45 misuse of term, 32 varieties of, 33-35
------ à l'aiguille, 121; gazée, 123. See also Needle point
------ d'Alençon Argentella, 193 and n555 Bayeux manufacture of, 228 Burano manufacture of, 62 compared, with point d'Argentan, 203, 204 and n571; with Brussels, 194, 199; with Colbertine, 339; with point Gaze, 123; with Sedan lace, 254 dress of, purchased by Emperor Napoleon, 198 earliest use of name, 195 and n557, n558, n560 grounds in, 193 imperial layette of, 198 industry Argentan, connection with, 204 centres of, 200 decline of, causes for, 192 early account of, 188-189 Edict of Nantes, effect of revocation of, 258 establishment of, 155-157 and n455 export trade, 192 method of manufacture, 192-194 Napoleon's patronage of, 196 number of lace-workers (1698), 191; (1786), 195; (1788), 192 n552; (1830), 196 origin of, 111 n323 quality of lace-work, 159 n464, 187, 194 revival of, 155 and n454, 196-197 value of (1786 and 1801), 195; (1830), 196 invention and establishment of, 155-157 and n455 lappet of, from Genoa, 78 and n244 "nun's work," 11 n39 patterns, 190-191; dates of, 198-200; Venice patterns copied, 191 season for, 178 shaded tints introduced in, 201 and n567 specimens of, exhibited, 200, 201 time required in making, 198, 201 Venetian réseau, relation to, 58-59 "vilain," 191 n551
------ d'Angleterre Angleterre à bride, 408 Aurillac manufacture of, 247 Burano manufacture of, 62 butterfly and acorn pattern in, 408 France, fashionable in, 118 and n336 history of, 117 and n332, and n333 point de France rivalled by, 178
------ d'Argentan "Argentella" possibly a name for, 78 n244 Armada pattern lace worked in, 397 Burano manufacture of, 62 characteristic of, 207 compared, with point d'Alençon, 203, 204 and n571; with point gaze, 123; with Venetian lace, 203, 204 n571 description of, 203 ground in, 203 and n570, 204 n571, 207-208 industry Alençon, connection with, 204 embroidery, replaced by, 208 n580 Guyard's revival of, 204-205 number of lace workers (c. 1744), 205; (1786), 195 rival houses, 205 value, annual (1786 and 1801), 195; (1788), 207 reference to (1738), 195 and n559 season for, 178
------ d'Aurillac. 154, 246-249
------ de Bourgogne, 255
------ de Brabant, 138 n392
------ de Bruxelles. See Point d'Angleterre
------ à carreaux, 32
------ à chaînette, 32
------ des champs (point de Paris), 35
------ Colbert, 188 n548, 228
------ coupé (couppé), 17-18, 49, 140 et seq.
------ de Dieppe. See Dieppe
------ double (point de Paris), 35
------ duchesse, 123
------ d'Espagne. (See also Gold lace) brides in, 58 definition of, 90 England, importation to, prohibited, 358; Honiton imitation of, 410 Irish imitation of, 443 n1233 point d'Aurillac compared with, 248 Portuguese laces compared with, 98, 106 Queen Elizabeth's, 307 references to, 98-99 n283, n285, 100, 103 n306, 354
------ d'esprit, 32 and n94, 229
------ de Flandre (See also Flemish lace), 111, 144-145
------ de France. (See also Point d'Alençon) description of, made at Alençon, 190 designs in, 158 n463 équipage, de bain of, 168 falbalas of, 167 and n492 industry centres of, 157 n459, 159 n459, 210-211 and n584 Dumont, Mlle., foundress of, 105 n312 establishment and history of company, 157-158 and n459 Flanders, effect on, 111 method of working pattern in, 31 n91 ordinance of 1665, 157 and n459 rivals to, 177-178 popularity in France and England, 161-162 references to, 157 n459, 159 n464, 195 and n557, n558, n559, n560
------ de Galle, thread lace from, 88
------ Gaze, characteristics of, 123
------ de Gênes (Genoa) collerette, 141 France, prohibited in, 148 n431, 154 and n451 history of, 72-73 and n230, 74 "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41,42
------ de Hongrie, 265
------ of Italy, first appearance in France, 144-145
------ de Marli. See under Bayeux, lace industry.
------ de Milan, Irish imitation of, 443
------ de Moscow, 284
------ de neige (punto neve), 32 and n97, 51
------ de Paris, 32 and n93, 35, 210, 212
------ plat, 105 n313, 118, 121 and n347, 122 and n350; appliqué, 123
------ de raccroc, 120, 184, 226
------ de Raguse, 41, 83 and n254, 84
------ à la Reine, 32
------ de Sedan. See Sedan
------ tresse, 314
------ de Venise Alençon imitations of, 191 characteristics, 123 England, importation to, prohibited, 358 France, prohibited in, 154 and n451 Guipure, 40 Irish imitation of, 442 Mary II., image of, shown wearing, 345 Mazarin's purchase of, 150, 151 Moscow imitations of, 284 origin of, 49-50 point à l'aiguille gazée so called, 123 point de Raguse so called, 83 resemblance of, to point d'Argentan, 203, 204 n591; to Le Puy lace, 245; to point de Sedan, 254 "Révolte des Passemens," mentioned in, 41 rose point (raised), 51 and n175, 62; price of, 57; Honiton reproduction of, 411, 416; Irish reproduction of, 443 n1233, 444 Spanish conventual lace compared with, 93 theft of, 105 and n313
------ de Venise à réseau, 57, 58
Pointeuse, work of, 122
Points, lace known as, 2
Poitou, 256
Poking-sticks, 312
Poland Alençon, trade with, 192 and n553 point de Sedan imported to, 254
Pole, Lady, effigy of, 403 n1145, 405
Polignac, Madame de, 180
Polychrome lace, 62-63
Pomfret, Countess of, 99 n285
Pommereu, M. de, quoted, 191 and n550
Pomp office, 319
Pompadour, Madame de, 184 n540
Pompe di Minerva, Le, cited, 53 n181, 85, 92 n269
Ponchel, du. See Duponchel
Pont-l'Evêque lace, 183 n539
Ponthièvre, Duke de, 100 and n288
Ponto fiamengho, 111
Pontoppidan, quoted, 274 n736
Pontus de Gardia, 280
Pope, quoted, 367
----, the, apron worn by, for feet-washing ceremony, 70 and n217
Popplewell Brothers, quoted, 345
Porlin, quoted, 306 n854
Porter, Mrs. Grey, 440
Portland, Duchess of, 353
Portugal American imports of lace from, 106 bone pins used in, 295 guipures exported to, 36 lace-making in, 105-107 and nn Le Puy, lace imported from, 245 sumptuary laws in, 105
Postlethwait, quoted, 354; cited, 396
Pot lace, 130 and n369
Potter, Amy, 366 n1086
Poussin lace, 219
Poyntz, Adrian, 482
Prague, altar-cloth at, 9
Pridmore, Mr., 389
Princess Royal, bridal dress of, 409
Prior, quoted, 342
Prison-made lace, 81 and n248
Protection to English-made laces, etc., by English sovereigns Charles I., 330 Charles II., 335 George III., 359, 363 and n1068 William III., 341
Puisieux lace, 212 n589
Puissieux, Madame de, 49 and n162, 73
Pultenarian collars, 253.
Punto in aria (Burano point), 46, 51 and n171, 58, 62
Punto di cartella (cordella), 50
------ a gropo, 52
------ a maglia quadra (lacis), 52
------ de mosquito e de transillas, 99
------ di Napoli, 71
------ neve (point de neige), 32 and n97, 51
------ pugliese, 71 n222
------ di Rapallo, 75 n237
------ reale, 50
------ a relievo (rose point--See under Point de Venise)
------ a reticella, 50 and n168
------ ricamento a maglia quadra, 21
------ tagliato (cut-work), 51
------ tagliato a fogliami, 51 and n172, 62
------ tirato (drawn work), 53 and n181
------ a Vermicelli, 75 n237
Purle lace, 310 and n875, n876, n877
Purling, 409
Purls, lace known as, 2
Puritans, lace industry under, in England, 332-334; in America, 372 n1099
Puteau, Madame, 433 and n1214
Queensberry, Duchess of, 356
Quentell, P., 459
Quicherat, 139
Quilles, 127, 168 n496
Quintain, 19 and n60, 20
Quinty, M., 268
------, P., 459
Rabat, 141 and n403
Rabbits' hair, lace of 245.
Radcliffe, Lady, 310 n875
Radford, Miss, lace school of, 416 and n1169
Raffy, Madame, 157 n458, 202
Ragusa, cut-works and laces of, 82-83
Rapallo, number of lace-workers at (1862), 76 Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn
Ratcliff, Lady, 294 n791
Rättwik lace, 281
Ravenna, lace school near, 81 n248
Rawert, cited, 274 n732, 277 n741
Ray, cited, 67
Réaux, Tallemant des, quoted 49; cited, 83
Rebecq-Rognon, flax grown at, 118
Récamier, Madame, 185
Regency point, 388
Regnard, quoted, 126 and n358, 167 n494
Regnier, quoted, 141
Reid, Miss, 440
Reiffenberg, Baron, cited, 109 and n318
Relevailles of Parisian ladies, 174
Religious subjects in lace, etc, 324
Renaissance, cut-work of, 17
René, Maître, 140 n395
Renfrew, lace industry at, 433
Réseau (réseuil, rézel, rézeuil) Don Quixote, mentioned in, 98 n281 methods of making, 120-121 needle-made by hand, 406 n1151 nosacé, 78 specimens of rézeuil d'or, 23 n74 uses of, 21 Venetian, relation of, to Alençon, 58-59
Restoring of old lace, 411, 412
Reticella (Italian) designs in, 68 Irish imitation of, 446
Retz, Cardinal de, 62
Revel, grave-clothes in church at, 366 n1083
"Révolte des Passemens, La," quoted, 40 and n134, 43, 104; cited, 83, 188
Rheims lace, 253
Rhodes, silk guipure of, 87
Riano, J. F., quoted, 93
Riazan lace, 283
Riband roses, 329 and n959
Ricci, Sebastian, cut work shown in "Last Supper" of, 79 n248
Rich, B., quoted, 317 n908
Richard II., statutes of, 216 n597
-------- III., 48, 294 n794
Richelieu, Duke, 144, 149
----------, Maréchal de, 171
Ripon, lace-making at, 371 and n1095
Riviera (See also Albissola, Rapallo, Santa Margherita), lace manufacture of, 75, 79 and n245
Rob Roy cited, 423
Roberts, Mrs., 445; account of lace school supplied by, 388-390
Robinson Crusoe, Flanders lace bought by, 134 n379
Rodge, James, 401
Roger, Widow, 207
Rohan, Catherine de, 212
------ family, 182
Roland, cited, 36 n113
------ de la Platière, quoted, 154 n451, 223 n608; cited, 245 n656
Romagna, lace-making in, 68
Romana, Lucretia, 498
------, Lugretia, 497
Romans, embroidery used by, 3 and n13, 4 n14
Rome, Greek lace made at, 85
----, King of, 196
Rondonneau, M., 152 n440
Rose point of Venice. See under Point de Venise
Rosenborg Palace Museum, 273
Rosina Helena, Princess, 501
Ross, Mr., 482
Rossi, Giovanni, 483
Roumanian embroidery, 71 n222
Rousseau, Jean Jacques, 270
Rowlands, quoted, 289 n773
Rudd, Margaret Caroline, 352
Rue, Abbé, cited, 6
Ruel, Sieur, 155
Ruelle, Veuve, 468
Ruff cut-work, of, 312-313 England, introduction into, 310 falling band the successor to, 326 France, in, 139-141 and n399 James I., under, 315-318 Medicean, 322 Nuremberg, 267 sermons against the, 316 starching and fluting of, 311-312
Ruffles fashion of, in George I.'s time, 351 ladies wearers of, 365 and n1077 long, in George III.'s time, 363 and n1070 making of, 194 origin of weeping, 171 Valenciennes industry affected by disappearance of, 231
Run lace, 441
Russell, Lady Rachel, 348
Russia embroidery of, 71 n222 lace imported to, from Alençon, 192, 199; from Saxony, 263 lace industry in, 283-284
Ruvigne, M., 331
Rymer, cited, 291 n785
Sabbio, Fratelli de, 461
Sabenqua, 97
Sabière, M. de, 172 n505
Saffron Walden fair, 43 n137
Sainte-Aignau, M. de, 216
Saint-Albin, Mgr. C. de, 173 and n508
St. Aligre, 247-248 and n663
Saint-Brice lace, 213 n589
St. Bridget, lace introduced into Sweden by, 278 and n743
St. Cuthbert cope and maniple of, 7 grave-clothes of, 14-15, 366
St. Denis lace, 210
St. Dunstan, embroideries designed by, 5
St. Eustadiole, 5
Saint François Régis, 243
St. Gervais, 207 n577
St. Giselle, 5 n18
St. Lawrence, Lady, 310 n876
St. Lo, cut-work toile d'honneur used at, 25
St. Louis, hospital at Argentan, 207
St. Margaret's, Westminster, lady ancress of, 293
St. Martin's lace, 331 n965
St. Mary at Hill, 293, 302 n828
Saint Maximien, lace of, 212
St. Nicholas, flax grown at, 118 n338
Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, lace of, 213 n589
St. Simon, quoted, 73, 166
St. Trond, lace industry of, 137 and n390, n391
Salcombe, male lace-maker at, 413
Saltonstall, Mistress Susan, 483
Salviati, Joseph, 476
Samcloths, 23 and n73
Samplars, 9 n30, 23 and n73
Sandford, cited, 285 n754
Sandwich, Lady, 166
Sta. Lucie, Pierre de, 464, 465
Santa Margherita number of lace-workers at (1862), 76 Vermicelli lace from, 74, 75 and nn
Saracens, Italian lace-making attributed to, 45
Sarcelles lace, 213 n589
Sardinia deaf and dumb lace-workers in, 81 n248 Le Puy, annual value of lace brought from, 245 n657
Saule, Marchesa Barbaretta, 78 n244
Savary, quoted, 36 and n111, 54, 64, 126, 133, 255, 257 n687, 404; cited, 74, 118 n338, 125, 129, 135, 192, 210, 244, 246 n661, 247, 253 n677, 254 n681, n683, 262, 377
Savinière, quoted, 153 and n443
Savoie, Don Philippe, 143
Savona, 77 n240, 79 n246
Savonarola, quoted, 67
Saxony lace industry Barbara Uttman's work, 260-262 cheap lace of, 246 degeneration of, 263 Dresden lace, 262-263 modern, 263 numbers employed (sixteenth century), 261 patterns imitated in Denmark, 275 revenue from (sixteenth century), 261 treillis d'Allemagne, mention, of, in French inventories, 262 and n701
Scandinavian Museum, Copenhagen, 275
Scandinavians, lace work of, 4
Scarpariola, Cencia, 59, 61
Scarron, quoted, 177
--------, Veuve, 163
Schartzemberger, Johan, 462
Schleswig lace industry, quality of lace, 275; number of fabrics (1840), 277
----------, North, lace of, 272, 273; districts of lace industry, 276 n738
"Schole House for the Needle, A," 499
Schomberg, Col., quoted, 326 and n946
Schools, Lace Devonshire, 414, 415 and n1167, 416 Italian, 81 n248 Spratton, 388, 390
Schoulthem, Mr. Hey, quoted, 133-134 and n380
Schwartzenburg, John, 267
Scotch servant on old lace, 368 n1090
Scotland lace manufacture of, 422, 425 n1199, 428-434 sumptuary laws in, 422 and n1195, 424
Scott, Sir Walter, quoted, 418 n1175, 427 and n1202
Scottish Advertiser (1769), quoted, 35
Sculptured lace coloured marbles, in, 71 Harefield church, in, 321 n927
Seaming lace, 107, 325 n941, 332
Sedan lace, 183 n539, 253, 254
Sedgewicke, Elizabeth, 310
Sedley, Sir Charles, 13 and n47
Séez black laces, 196 and n562
Séguin, quoted, 113 n325, 139 n393; cited, 254
Select Society of Edinburgh, The, 429, 430 and nn
Sempere Historia del Lujo, quoted, 102
Senior, Hannah, 12
Sera, Dominique de, cited, 92; Pattern Book of, 476
Sevenges, Madame de, 290
Sévigné, Madame de bequest to, 183 n540 quoted, 154 n448, 162 n477, 366 n1084
Seville lace, 101
Sewell, quoted, 294 n794
Seymour, Lady Jane, 294
Sforza family, documents of, cited, 46, 50 n168, 63, 74 n235
Shadwell, quoted, 343, 345
Shakespeare, laces mentioned by, 295, 303 and n831; quoted, 309 n871
Shakespeare Memorial, A, quoted, 325 n941
Shandowes, Lady. See Chandos
Shawe, quoted, 404
Sherborne, lace industry of, 396, 397
Sheridan, quoted, 346
Shirts adornments of, 15-16 Irish, 307, 435 Queen Elizabeth's present of, to her brother, 10 Spanish omission of, 97 n279
Shoes, lace rosette-trimmed, 329
Shrewsbury, Countess of, 11
Siam, King of (1614), 12
Sibmacher, 266, 490
Sicily, lace manufacture of, 80-81
Sicotière, Leon de la, 208 n579
Sidbury, lace school at, 414; lace lessons at, 416 n1170
Sidford, lace lessons at, 4l6 n34
Sidmouth, lace school at, 416 and n1169
Sidney, Sir Philip, 304
Sidonian embroidery, 3
Siena lace, 68
Silk guipure. See Guipure
---- lace Almagro, at, 102 n297 Chinese, 89 Cretan, 86 Ragusa, at (gimp), 84 Watling, 422
Silver lace (See also Aurillac lace) England, importation to, prohibited by, Queen Anne, 349; George II., 335 n993; confiscation and burning of foreign, 359 Hamburg, 264 Holland, introduction into, 259 India, exported to, 322 n928, 329 and n958 Ireland, exportation to, prohibited, 439 Large purchase of, by Lady Arabella Stuart, 325 Lyons, at, 256 Ragusa, at, 84 Scotland, wearing prohibited in, 422 Spanish, 100-102, 154, 211, 212 Zurich, 271
------ net-work, collar of, 82
------ purles, prohibition of English made, 330 330
------ thread, duties on, leased to Dame Villiers, 328
Silvestre, cited, 463 n1274, 464
Simiane, Madame de English point belonging to, 118 and n335 inventory of, quoted, 153 n444, 218 and n599
Sinclair, Sir John, quoted, 133-134 and n380, 428
--------, Miss Katherine, 419 n1176
Sir Courtly Nice, cited, 353 and n1052
Skelton, quoted, 251 n669
Skippin, quoted, 49 n165, cited, 72
Slammerkins, 356 and n1059
Slavonian peasants' work, 268
Sleeves, 341, 365
Sloper, Catherine, epitaph on, 13
Smith, Mother Mary Anne, 443
Smocks adornments of, 15 labourers' cut-work insertion on, 25
Smuggling of lace, account of, 357-362; of point de Bruxelles, 117; in 1621, 331; in Charles II's time, 336; Isle of Man a centre for, 372; to Scotland, 427
---------- of thread, 407
Smyrna, silk guipure of, 87
Smythe, Thomas, 425
Society of Anti-Gallicans. See Anti-Gallican
-------- of Polite Arts, 262 n702
Sol, José, 484
Soldiers lace made by, 225 rich laces of English, 345, 346
Sonderburg, vault of Schleswig-Holstein family at, 366 n1082
Sonnettes, 34 n104
Sophie de France, 168
------, Grand Duchess, 268
Soragana, Marchesa di, 486
Sorbière, Mons. de, 70
Souche, Lady, 309 n870
South Kensington Museum, Cretan laces in, 86
Southey, quoted, 303 n830
Spacing lace, 325 n941
Spain America, lace exported to, 102 bone pins used in, 295 conventual lace work of, 93 earnings of lace-makers in, 102 embroidery of, 8 n28, 10 and n32 French fashions influenced by, 147 gold and silver lace, use and manufactures of, 100-102; imported to, 212 grave clothes of grandees in, 366 and n1085 guipures imported to, 36 holidays in, 102 n302 lace imported to, from-- Albissola, 77 Chantilly, 214 Dieppe, 219 Ghent, 133 Isle de France, 209 Le Puy, 245 and n657 Lorraine, 251 Marseilles, 101 Paris, 36, 212 Maestranza, the, uniforms of, 100 mantilla, kinds of, 102-103 and n305; mantillas exported to, 226 manufacture of lace in, centres of, before 1665, 44 n144 Moresse, dentelles de, 104 numbers of lace-makers in, 99, 101, 102 n294, n297, 104 point of. See Point d'Espagne shirts frequently unworn in (1686), 97 n279 sumptuary laws of, 90, 97, 101 two kinds of lace made in, 103 n305
Spangles, 335; of bobbins, 391 n1127
Spanish-American colonies, Chantilly lace exported to, 214
-------- Indies, Brabant lace exported to, 129 guipures exported to, 36 Le Puy lace, annual consumption of, 245 n657
Spelle werk, 32 n98
Spenser, quoted, 303 n830
Spider net, 448
------ -work, 20
Spiral design, 7
Spratton, lace school at, 388-390
Staël, Madame de, 180
Stafford, Bishop, monument of, 405 and n1150
Stair, Lord, 99 n285
Starch, yellow, 307, 317 and n906, 435
Starching, introduction of, into England, 311; tools used for fluting and, 311-312
Steadman, Anne, 440
Steenbeck, 274
Steinkirk lace, 167 and n491, 344 and n1021, 345, 364
Stephens, quoted, 302 n828
Stepney, Lady, 369
Sterne, cited, 172
Stisted, Mrs., cited, 474 and n1308, 487
Stock, lace cravat succeeded by, 345
Stockholm museums, lace in, 282
Stone, quoted, 140
Stoney Stratford, lace industry of, 375 n1105, 379 and n1117
Stothard, Mrs., quoted, 216 n594
Stowe, cited, 294 n793; quoted, 310, 311 and n879, 312
Strafford, statuette of Earl of, 367
Strasburg, Archbishops of. See Rohan family.
Stratford-upon-Avon, embroidered bed linen at, 325 n941
Strauben, George, 271, 487
Strickland, Miss, quoted, 420 n1184
Striqueuse, work of, 122
Strutt, Jedediah, 448 n1239
Strype, quoted, 38, 297 and n813
Stuart, Arabella, 325
------, Mary, See Mary Stuart
Stubbes, quoted, 16, 313 and n892
Stuora, 53 and n179
Sturbridge fair, 43 and n140
Stures family, 282
Suffolk, Duchess, 292
--------, Earl of, 319 and n917, n918
--------, lace industry of, 394
Sully, 142, 210
Sumptuary laws Denmark, 274 and n733, n735 England, 285, 286, 288, 289, 290 and n776, 291, 293, 306 and n855, 319 France, 64, 141 and n404, n405, 144, 147 and n429, 148 and n431, 152, 154 and n450, 158 and n460, 212, 243 Genoa, 73 Ireland (192 A.D.), 435, 436 and n1220 Portugal, 105 "Révolte des Passemens, La," 40-43 Scotland, 422 and n1195, 424 Spain, 90, 97, 101 Turkey, 87 Venice, 48, 57, 79 n245 Zurich, 270
Sweden cut-work in, 25, 280 grave-clothes, lace adorned, 366 lace industry, bobbin lace of, 280 established at Wadstena, 278 growth of, 279 peasant lace work for home use, 281-282 Spanish point and guipure in museums, 282 sheets, laced, 280
Swift, quoted, 124, 339, 349 n1037, 352, 436
Swinburne, Thos. (1572), 301 n822
---------- (1775), quoted, 101
---------- (1786), quoted, 176
Switzerland, lace industry in, French refugees, settlement of, 269 mignonette made (1665), 35 Neufchâtel. See that title origin of, 269 pattern books, 271 statistics of, 270 and n727 Zurich sumptuary laws, 270-271
Sylvius, Balthazar, 469
Syon Monastery cope, 7
Syracuse, Count of, quoted, 369
Tabin, B., 476
Taglienti, pattern-book of, 50 n168, 51 n171, 52 n176, n178, 53 n181, 71 n222, 82 n252, 460
Talavera de la Regna, lace made at, 101
Talbot, Gilbert, 304
Tallies, 78 and n154
Talma lace, 186
Talon, 158 n460
Tambour work, Hamilton, 434 n1216 Irish, 440, 441 and n1230, 442 n1231 oriental, 440, 441
Tape lace, 116, 414 n1165
Tapestry, Greek lace a substitute for, 85-86
Tarnete (trina), 46
Tatler, quoted, 296 n806
Tatting, Manilla grass, 89 n265
Tax-books, Genoese, cited, 72 n224
Taylor, John, quoted, 323 and n933, 329; cited 500
Temple, Earl, 380
Tessada, Signore, old lace of, 72 n225, 73 n232; cited, 76 n238
Têtes de More (de mort, de moire), 36 and n113
Thelusson, Symphorien, 269
Theodoret, J., 469
Thierzac, lacis at, 248
Thomond, Earl of, 12
Thomsen, Prof., quoted, 272
Thomysi, Eleazaro, 481
Thread, importance of using fine (see also under Lille), 393 and n1104, 446
------ lace Cyprian, 82 hand spinners of, protest by, 335 importation of, prohibited by George III., 355 n1047
Thynne, quoted, 298 n816
Tickell, quoted, 169 n497
Tighe, Mr., cited, 440 n1228
Tiverton, first machine net factory at, 408
Toilé, 30 and n89
Toile d'arraignée, Paraguayan, 108
Toledo, Donna Teresa de, 103
Tombs. See Grave-clothes
Tönder lace industry, 274, 275, 277 and n740, n742
Toquet, 340
Torchon Milanese, 66 prison-made at Perugia, 81 n248 Saxony fabric, 263 Sicilian, 81 Spanish, 102 n297
Torello, 469
Torteroli, Sig. Don Tommaso, 79 n246
Tory, G., 476
Tottenham, Mrs. George, 446
Toul, "tulle" probably derived from, 250-251 and n669
Tournantes, 168 n496
Tournay, flax grown at, 118 n338
Tours, cope presented to Church of St. Martin at, 5
Towcester, lace industry at, 382
Travancore, pillow-laces of, 88
Treadwin, Mrs. cited, 401 n1140, 407, 413 Honiton lace industry, efforts for, 410, 411, 416
Trevelyan, Miss Audrey, 417
Trezola, 474 n1311
Trina, 46 and n150, n152
Trolle Bonde, Count, 282
------ kant, 115-116
Trollopies, 356 and n1059
Trolly ground, 386
------ lace, 371 n1095, 412-414
Trotman, Acting Consul, cited, 89
Trousse, Mlle. de la, cited, 40 n134
Troyaux, Mons., 124
Tucker, Mrs. Marwood, 407 n1154
Tulle (town), manufactures of, 250
Tulle embroidered, 229 German manufacture of, 250 lace discarded in favour of, 187 Marie Antoinette, at Court of, 180 origin of name, 250 predecessor of, 225
Turkey oyah made in, 45, 87 silk gimp specimens from, 85 sumptuary laws in, 87 tambour work in, 441
Turn, 401 n1140
Turner, Mrs., yellow starch invented by, 307, 317 and n906, 435
Turnhout, Mechlin lace made at, 125; number of fabrics (1803), 131
Turin, fashion at Court of, 153 n445
Tuscan lacis, 52-53, 68
Tussaud, Madame, 143 n412
Twopenny, Mr. W., 286 n761
Tynan lace industry, 442, 443
Tyrol (Austrian) lace industry, 268
Udine, lace school at, 81 n248
Unbleached thread, pattern worked in, 338
Underclothing lace-trimmed, in Scotland, 426
United States. See America
Urbino, lace making in, 68
Urbino, Duchess, 471
Ursins, Madame des, 99, 172
Ustariz, quoted, 102
Uttman, Barbara, 260-262, 447
Val de Travers, rivalry with Mirecourt, 252, 270
Valcameos, 246
Valencia gold and silver lace made at, 101 saints' images decked in lace at, 100
Valenciennes Lace compared with Binche, 135; with Dutch, 260; with Eu lace, 221; with Isle of Man lace, 372 n1096; with Lille, 237; with Mechlin, 233; with point de Dieppe, 220; with Welsh lace, 371 n1094 cost of (1788), 234 and n627 fault of, 235 n629 Honiton reproduction of, 416 industry centres of, 132; after French Revolution, 231 n624; expense and labour in making, 233; cost of thread, 234 n627 decline of, 231 establishment of, date, 230 French Revolution, effect of, 183 n539 method of working pattern in, 31 numbers employed (18th century), 230; (1790 and 1851), 231; at Ypres (1684 and 1850), 131 period of highest merit, 234-235 time required in producing, 233-234 value of Belgium monopoly, 132 and n376 wages and conditions of work, 233 point a misnomer for, 32 réseau of, 66 varieties of Alost (ground stitch), 133 Bailleul, 241 Bohemia, 268 Bruges, 132-133 Courtrai, width of, 131 n373; compared with Ypres, 132; ground stitch, 133 n377; character of, 232 n624 Dijon, 255 fausses Valenciennes, manufactories of, 241, 387 Ghent (ground stitch), 133 n377 Le Puy, 230 and n619, 245 vrai Valenciennes, 231 and n624 Ypres, description of, 131, 231 n624; value of, 131 n373; ground and pattern, 131-133
Valentine de Milan, 139 n393
Valets, extravagance of, 173 and n514
Valguarnera, Prince, 71
Valladolid, lace-trimmed banner at, 100
Valois line, influence of, on French fashions, 139
Valuables of Glenurquhy, quoted, 325 and n938
Valvassore's heirs, pattern book of, 476
Van Even, Edward, cited, 110 n320
Van Eyck, Jacob, quoted, 111 and n322
Van Londonzeel, Assuerus, 111
Vandyke edges, origin of term, 448 n1241
Vatican, laces of, 70
Vavassore, Giovanni Andrea, 466, 467, 472
Vecellio cited, 71 and n221 Corona of, 8 n28, 29, 50 n167, 111, 484, 486
Veils, bridal, 78; English, fourteenth century, 285
Vélay lace industry (See also Le Puy), fifteenth century, 242; 18th century, 244; thread used, 245
Venezuela, lace of, 108
Venice Billament lace of, 48 and n159 blonde, formerly made in, 59 n195 Brussels lace worn at, 57 and n192 Colbert, ordinance of, trade affected by, 54 collar made for Louis XIII. at, 194 emigration of workers restricted, 159 n465 English imports from, 43, 288, 307 n863, n864; prohibited, 358 fashion dolls at St. Mark's fair, 170 n501 frauds of lace-makers in, 48, 67, 288 gold work of, 288, 307 n863, n864 Greek lace made at, 85 Medici collars made at, 56 numbers employed on lace-making in, 63 Point of. See Point de Venise polychrome lace, introduction of, 62-63 sumptuary laws in, 48, 57, 79 n245 Swiss lace from, origin of, 269 travellers' allusions to products of, 55, 57 varieties of lace supplied by, 50-53, 57-58
Verbruggen, 129 n367
Verceilles, 249
Verghetti, 56
Vermicelli lace, 74
Verney Papers, quoted, 319 n916
Verona, St. John, life of, executed in needlework at, 8 n26
Veronese, Paul, macramé in picture, by, 79 n248
Verulam, Lord, 101 and n289
Viarmes lace, 212
Victoria, Queen Honiton lace flounces ordered by, 410 Isle of Wight lace patronised by, 372 n1097 State liveries of, 174 n516 trousseau of, 392, 409
Victoria and Albert Museum Alençon in, 193 n555 Bock exhibits in, 23 n74 Cyprian lace in, 82 Danish embroideries in, 275 Genoese lappet in, 78 and n244 German specimens in, 264; Nuremberg ruffs, 267 Hungarian peasant lace in, 268 Irish imitation Venetian point in, 443 n1233 lacis borders in, 20-21 Norwegian cut-work in, 280 n747 pale of rose point in, 51 Paraguayan drawn-work at, 108 pattern-books in, 467 n1287, 468, 470, 477, 488 n1337, 490 n1344, 497 n1361, 501 n1370, 502 n1371 Slavonian peasants' work in, 268 Suffolk laces in, 394 Syon Monastery cope in, 7 tape lace in, 116
Villemarqué, cited, 229 n616
Villiers, Dame Barbara, 328
--------, Sir Edward, 319 n918
--------, Sir George, 318
Villiers-le-Bel, lace-making at, 209, 213 n589
Vimoutier, 204
Vinciolo, Frederick Katharine de Médicis the patroness of, 11,17 pattern book of, 49, 136, 144, 477-482, 487, 494
Virginière, Blaise de, quoted, 140, 141 and n401
Vittoria, Sister Felice, 93
Volant, origin of name, 168 n496
Vologda lace, 283
Voltaire, quoted, 166 n490
Vorsterman, William, 180, 463
Vos, Martin de, engravings after, 106 and n268
Vrai réseau, bride succeeded by, 406
Vrillière, Mgr. de la, 162 n475
Waborne lace, 300 and n819
Wace, Robert, cited, 202
Wadstena lace industry, 278-280
Wages of lace-workers. See Earnings
Wakefield, quoted, 440 n1228
Waldgrave, Sir Edward, 293
Wales, lace-making in, 371 and n1094
------, Princess of, 409
Walker, Charles, 441 and n1230, 442
Walpole, cited, 297 n808, 356 and n1060
Walsingham, 307 n860, 420 n1182
----------, Lady Audrye, 64, 320 n925
Wareham, lace found in Scandinavian barrow near, 4
Warwick, Lord, 333
Warton, J., quoted, 121 and n349
Washing of ecclesiastical lace, 373 n1101
Waterloo, hospital for English wounded at, 124
Waterman, Mrs. Elizabeth, 395
Watling silk lace, 422
Watt, cited, 482 n1329
Weaving Book, 280
Webb, Mr., 51
Weber, cited, 280 n758
Weigel, Christoph, 501
------, Joh. Christoph, 502
Weisse, C., cited, 259 n693, 264 n707
West Indies, Spanish lace sold in, 102 n294
Westcote, quoted, 400; cited, 401
Westminster procession of lace-makers to, 360 St. Margaret's, lace washing from, 373 n1101
------------, Dean of, forbids yellow starch, 317
------------ Abbey epitaph in cloisters of, 13 lace on images in, 316 n901, 345
Westphalia Jutland industry improved by workers from, 274 thread, fineness of, 119 n339
Whisks, 334
Whitcomb, John, widow of, 17
White, Edward, 482
------ Knight's sale, 497
Wieselgren, H., cited, 493 n1354
Wight, Isle of, lace industry of, 372 and n1097
Wigs, cost of, 349 falling bands put out of fashion by, 336
Wilhelmina of Bayreuth, 99 n283
Willemin, cited, 475 n1313
William III., period of, 341-346
-------- of Malmesbury, quoted, 6
-------- of Normandy, 6-7
-------- of Poictiers, quoted, 7
-------- the Silent, 260
Willingham, Geo., letter to, cited, 98 n282
Wilton, Lady, cited, 497
Wiltshire and Dorsetshire lace, 395-398
Winchester, lace purchased at, by Anne of Denmark, 320
----------, Lady Marquis of, 309 n870
Wire, gold and silver lace made from, 72
---- ground, 386
Wiseman, Cardinal, lace alb used by, 92-93
Wolfe, I., 482
Wolsey, Cardinal, lace of, 292
Women, lace work of, compared with that of men, 263
Woodbury Maltese lace imitation made at, 414 n1165 men lace-makers at, 413
Woollen manufacture in England lace manufacture next to, in 1698, 402 loss to, from edict against Flanders lace 341, 342, 349
Worcester, Countess of, 313
Wotton, Sir Henry, 136 n385
Wraxall, cited, 105, 142; quoted, 263
Wulff, Jens, 276 and n739
Wyatt, Sir Thomas, 294
Wyriot, Madame, 205
Yarranton, Andrew, quoted, 114-115 and n327; cited 259 n696
Yemenis, M., cited, 488 n1339
Yokohama, lace school at, 417
Yorck lace, 138 n392
York, Cardinal, 421
Youghal Convent, lace-making at, 443, 444
Young, A., cited, 192 n552, 207, 223, 224, 244; quoted, 234 n627, 239
Ypres Valenciennes. See under Valenciennes
Yriarte, Charles, cited, 159 n465
Zante, Greek lace made at, 85
Zedler, cited, 57
Zoppino, Nicolo, 461, 462
Zouch, Lord, cited, 136 n385
Zurich, sumptuary laws of, 270 and n728
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND 28, GREAT WINDMILL STREET. W.
Notes
[1] Wilkinson's Ancient Egyptians, vol. iii., p. 134. (See Illustration.)
[2] Herodotus, ii. 182; iii. 47.
[3] Ezekiel, who takes up the cry of lamentation for "Tyrus, situate at the entry of the sea," a merchant of the people for many isles, exclaims, "The merchants of Sheba, Asshur, and Chilmad were thy merchants. These were thy merchants in all sorts of things, in blue cloths and broidered works, and in chests of rich apparel." Another part of the same chapter mentions galley sails of fine linen "with broidered work from Egypt."--Ezekiel xxvii.
[4] Exodus xxvi.; xxvii.; xxxiv. 2; Isaiah iii. 18; 1 Kings vii. 17.
[5] Exodus xxxviii. 23.
[6] Again, in the song of Deborah, the mother of Sisera says, "Have they not divided the prey?... to Sisera a prey of divers colours of needlework, of divers colours of needlework on both sides."--Judges v. 30.
[7] Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-making. A. S. Cole (London, 1881).
[8] At Athens the maidens who took part in the procession of the Panathenaea embroidered the veil or peplos upon which the deeds of the goddess were embroidered. The sacred peplos borne on the mast of a ship rolled on wheels in the Panathenaic festival "was destined for the sacred wooden idol, Athene Polias, which stood on the Erechtheus. This peplos was a woven mantle renewed every five years. On the ground, which is described as dark violet, and also as saffron-coloured, was inwoven the battle of the gods and the giants." (See page 47, British Museum Catalogue to the Sculptures of the Parthenon.)
[9] Pliny, Hist. Nat., viii. 74. "Colores diversos picturae intexere Babylon maxime celebravit et nomen imposuit."
[10] Maspero, The Dawn of Civilisation in Egypt and Chaldaea (ed. Prof. Sayce).
[11] Lefébure, Embroidery and Lace (trans. A. S. Cole).
[12] Lucan, Pharsalia, Book X.
[13] The Romans denominated such embroideries phrygionae, and the embroiderer phrygio. Golden embroideries were specified as auriphrygium. This word is the root of the French orfroi (orfreys).
[14] Mrs. Palliser quotes an extract from the author of Letters from Italy, who, speaking of the cabinet at Portici, mentions an elegant marble statue of Diana "dressed after the purple gowns worn by the Roman ladies; the garment is edged with a lace exactly resembling point; it is an inch and a half broad, and has been painted purple." By an Englishwoman (Mrs. Millar) in the years 1770 and 1771 (London, 1777).
[15] Strutt.
[16] Lefébure, Embroidery and Lace.
[17] Mrs. Bury Palliser, "Embroidery," Encyclopædia Britannica.
[18] St. Giselle, Berthe's sister, founded many convents in Aquitaine and Provence, and taught the nuns all manner of needlework (Lefébure, Embroidery and Lace).
[19] Chronique Rimée, by Philippe Mouskés.
[20] Lefébure, Embroidery and Lace.
[21] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," Encyclopædia Britannica.
[22] It has been suggested that the embroidery was done by William's granddaughter, the Empress Matilda, widow in 1125 of Henry V., Emperor of Germany, and wife, by her second marriage, of Geoffrey, Count of Anjou (Lefébure).
[23] Mr. Fowke states that the tradition which would make the tapestry the handiwork of Queen Matilda cannot be traced further back than 1803, when the tapestry was sent to Paris for exhibition.
[24] Matt. Par., Hist. Angl., p. 473, Edit. Paris, 1644.
[25] Mrs. Palliser, "Embroidery," Encyclopædia Britannica.
[26] At Verona an artist took twenty-six years to execute in needlework the life of St. John, after the designs of Pollajuolo.
[27] "Gaston, Duke of Orleans, established hot-houses and botanical gardens, which he filled with rare exotics to supply the needle with new forms and richer tints" (Lefébure).
[28] We read, for instance, that Gabrielle de Bourbon, wife of Louis de la Trémouille, "jamais n'estoit oyseuse, mais s'employoit une partie de la journée en broderies et autres menus ouvrages appartenant à telles dames, et y occupoit ses demoyselles dont avoit bonne quantité, et de grosses, riches, et illustres maisons."--Panegyric de Loys de la Trèmoille par Jean Bouchet.
Again Vecellio dedicates his "Corona" to Signora Nanni, not only on account of the pleasure she takes in works of the needle, but for "il diletto che prende in farne essercitar le donne de casa sua, ricetto delle più virtuose giovani che hoggidi vivono in questa città."
"It is usual here," writes a lady from Madrid in 1679, "for good families to put their daughters to ladies, by whom they are employed to embroider in gold and silver, or various colours, or in silk, about the shift, neck, and hands."
"I jor fist es chambre son pere, Une estole et i amict pere, De soie et d'or molt soutilment, Si i fait ententivement Mainte croisette et mainte estoile, Et dist ceste chancon à toile." --Roman de la Violette.
"One day, seated in her father's room, she was skilfully working a stole and amict in silk and gold, and she was making in it, with great care, many a little cross and many a little star, singing all the while this chanson à toile."
[30] In one of Edward I. we find a charge of eight shillings for silk bought for the embroidery work of Margaret, the King's daughter, and another for four ounces of silk, two hundred ounces of gold thread, a spindle, etc.--Liber de Garderoba, 23 Edw. I., Public Record Office.
In one of Edward III. the sum of £2 7s. 2d. is expended in the purchase of gold thread, silk, etc., for his second daughter Joanna.--Liber Garderobae, 12-16 Edw. III., Public Record Office.
Elizabeth of York worked much at her needle. In the account of her household, preserved in the Public Record Office, every page of which is signed by Queen Elizabeth herself, we find--
"To Evan Petreson joiner, for the stuff and making of 4 working stools for the Queen; price of the stool 16 pence--5s. 4d.
"To Thomas Fissch, for an elne of linen cloth for a samplar for the queen, 8d."
In the Inventory 4 Edward VI., 1552 (Harl. MSS. No. 1419), are entries of--
"Item, XII. samplars" (p. 419).
"Item, one samplar of Normandie canvas, wrought with green and black silk" (p. 524).
"A book of parchment containing diverses patternes" (p. 474), probably purchases for his sisters.
[31] See, for instance, the interesting account of the Countess of Oxford, given by Miss Strickland in her Life of Queen Elizabeth of York.
[32] These are alluded to in the dialogue between Industria and Ignavia, as given in Sibmacher's "Modelbuch," 1601 (French translation): "La vieille dame raconte l'histoire des concours de travail à l'aiguille chez les anciens Espagnols; comme Isabelle, femme de Ferdinand, a hautement estimé les travaux de l'aiguille."
The "Spanish stitch," so often mentioned, was brought in by Katharine, on her marriage with Prince Arthur, in 1501. We have constantly in her wardrobe accounts sheets and pillow-beres, "wrought with Spanish work of black silk at the edge."
In the Inventory of Lord Monteagle, 1523 (Public Record Office,) are "eight partlets, three garnished with gold, the rest with Spanish work."
In 1556, among the New Year's gifts presented to Queen Mary Tudor, most of the smocks are "wrought with black silk, Spanish fashion."
In the Great Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth, 3 & 4, Public Record Office, we have "sixteen yards of Spanish work for ruffs."
"Twelve tooth cloths, with the Spanish stitch, edged with gold and silver bone lace."--Ibid. Eliz. 5 & 6.
The Spanish stitch appears in France with Henry II., 1557. "Pour la façon d'ung gaban avec ung grant collet chamarrez à l'Espaignolle de passement blanc," etc.--Comptes de l'Argentier du Roy. Archives Nat. K. K. 106.
[33] Taylor, the Water Poet, Katharine of Aragon.
[34] The industry of Henry's last queen was as great as that of his first. Specimens still exist at Sizergh Castle, Westmoreland, of Katharine Parr's needlework--a counterpane and a toilet cover. An astrologer, who cast her nativity, foretold she would be a queen; so when a child, on her mother requiring her to work, she would exclaim, "My hands are ordained to touch crowns and sceptres, not needles and spindles."
[35] Dames Illustres.
[36] The "Reine des Marguerites," the learned sister of Francis I., was not less accomplished with her needle, and entries for working materials appear in her accounts up to the year of her death, 1549.
"Trois marcs d'or et d'argent fournis par Jehan Danes, pour servir aux ouvraiges de la dicte dame."--Livre de dépenses de Marguerite d'Angoulême, par le Comte de la Ferrière-Percy. Paris, 1862.
"Elle addonoit son courage A faire maint bel ouvrage Dessus la toile, et encor A joindre la soye et l'or. Vous d'un pareil exercise Mariez par artifice Dessus la toile en maint trait L'or et la soie en pourtrait."
--Ode à la Royne de Navarre, liv. ii., od. vii.
[38] 1380. "Oeuvre de nonnain."--Inventaire de Charles V.
[39] "My grandmother, who had other lace, called this" (some needlepoint) "nun's work."--Extract from a letter from the Isle of Man, 1862.
"A butcher's wife showed Miss O---- a piece of Alençon point, which she called 'nun's work.'"--Extract from a letter from Scotland, 1863.
1698, May. In the London Gazette, in the advertisement of a sale by auction, among other "rich goods," we find "nun's work," but the term here probably applies to netting, for in the Protestant Post Boy of March 15th, 1692, is advertised as lost "A nun's work purse wrought with gold thread."
1763. In the Edinburgh Advertiser appears, "Imported from the Grand Canaries, into Scotland, nun's work."
[40] As, for instance, "the imbrothering" of the monks of the monastery of Wolstrope, in Lincolnshire.
[41] Livre de Lingerie. Dom. de Sera, 1581. "Donne, donzelle, con gli huomini."--Taglienti, 1530. Patterns which "les Seigneurs, Dames, et Damoiselles ont eu pour agréables."--Vinciolo, 1587.
[42] Jehan Mayol, carme de Lyon; Fra Hieronimo, dell' Ordine dei Servi; Père Dominique, religieux carme, and others.
[43] One in the Bibliothèque Impériale is from the "Monasterio St. Germani à Pratis."
[44] He died in 1595. Lives of the Earl and Countess of Arundel, from the original MS. by the Duke of Norfolk. London, 1857.
[45] P. R. O. Calendar of State Papers. Domestic. Charles I. Vol. clxix. 12.
[46] P. R. O. Calendar of State Papers. Colonial. No. 789.
[47] See his epigram, "The Royal Knotter," about the queen,
"Who, when she rides in coach abroad Is always knotting threads."
[48] Translated from the Libellus de Admirandis beati Cuthberti Miraculis of Reginald, monk of Durham, by Rev. J. Rain. Durham, 1855.
[49] Chronicle of John Hardyng, circ. 1470.
[50] Temp. Rich. II. In their garments "so much pouncing of chesell to make holes, so much dragging (zigzagging) of sheers," etc.--Good Parson, Chaucer.
[51] Percy, Reliques of Ancient Poetry, vol. iii.
[52] Anatomie of Abuses, by Philip Stubbes, 1583.
[53] The Shyp of Folys of the Worlde, translated out of Latin by Alex. Barclay, 1508.
[54] The inventories of all nations abound in mention of these costly articles. The "smocks" of Katharine of Aragon "for to lay in," were wrought about the collar with gold and silk. Lord Monteagle, 1523, had "two fine smocks of cambric wrought with gold." (Inv. P. R. O.) Among the New Year's Gifts offered to Queen Mary Tudor by the Duchess of Somerset (1556), we find a smock wrought over with silk, and collar and ruffles of damask, gold purl, and silver. Again, in the household expenses of Marguerite de France, 1545, we find a charge of "4 livres 12 sols, pour une garniture de chemise ouvré de soye cramoisie pour madicte dame."--(Bib. Imp. MSS. Fonds François, 10,394.) About the same date (G. W. A. Eliz. 1 & 2, 1558-59) appear charges for lengthening one smocke of drawne work, 20s. Six white smockes edged with white needlework lace, 10s. To overcasting and edging 4 smockes of drawn work with ruffs, wristbands, and collars, three of them with black work, and three of them with red, etc. At the funeral of Henry II. of France, 1559, the effigy was described as attired in "une chemise de toile de Hollande, bordée au col et aux manches d'ouvraige fort excellent."--Godefroy, Le Cérémonial de France, 1610.
[55] See FRANCE.
[56] The pillow-bere has always been an object of luxury, a custom not yet extinct in France, where the "taies d'oreiller, brodées aux armes," and trimmed with a rich point, form an important feature in a modern trousseau. In the inventory of Margaret of Austria, the gentle governess of the Low Countries, are noted--
"Quatre toyes d'oraillers ouvrées d'or et de soye cramoysie et de verde.
"Autres quatres toyes d'oraillers faites et ouvrées d'or et de soye bleu à losanges qui ont estées données à Madame par dom Diego de Cabrera."--Corr. de l'Empereur Maximilien I. et de Marguerite d'Autriche, par M. Leglay. Paris, 1839.
Edward VI. has (Harl. MSS. 1419) "18 pillow-beres of hollande with brode seams of silk of sundry coloured needlework." And again, "One pillow-bere of fine hollande wrought with a brode seam of Venice gold and silver, and silk nedlework."
And Lady Zouche presents Queen Elizabeth, as a New Year's gift, with "One pair of pillow-beares of Holland work, wrought with black silk drawne work."--Nichol's Royal Progresses.
[57] Goderonné--goudronné, incorrectly derived from pitch (goudron), has no relation to stiffness or starch, but is used to designate the fluted pattern so much in vogue in the sixteenth century--the "gadrooned" edge of silversmiths.
1588. Il avait une fraise empesée et godronnée à gros godrons, au bout de laquelle il y avoit de belle et grande dentelle, les manchettes estoient goudronnées de mesme.
[58] They are introduced into the Title page of this work.
[59] See APPENDIX.
[60] "Quintain, quintin, French lawne." Randle Cotgrave. Dictionarie of the French and English tongues. 1611.
"26 virges de Kanting pro sudariis pro ille 47/8."--G. W. A. Charles II., 1683-4.
[61] Lacis, espèce d'ouvrage de fil ou de soie fait en forme de filet ou de réseuil dont les brins étaient entre-lacez les uns dans les autres.--Dict. d'Ant. Furetière, 1684.
[62] Béle Prerie contenant differentes sortes de lettres, etc., pour appliquer sur le réseuil ou lassis. Paris, 1601. See APPENDIX.
[63] So, in the Epistle to the Reader, in a Pattern-book for Cut-works (London, J. Wolfe & Edward White, 1591), the author writes of his designs:--
"All which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth forward; whereby with more ease they may be sewed and wrought in cloth, and keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey of the worke. And more, who desyreth to bring the work into a lesser forme, let them make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge them, and so may you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch, pouncing or pouldering upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to be understood that these squares serve not only for cut-workes, but alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching."--(See APPENDIX, No. 72).
[64] Pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias Mignerak, etc. Paris, 1605. See APPENDIX.
[65] The inventories of Charles de Bourbon, ob. 1613, with that of his wife, the Countess of Soissons, made after her death, 1644 (Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426), alone prove how much this réseuil was in vogue for furniture during the seventeenth century.
"Item un pavilion de thoille de lin à bende de reseuil blang et noir faict par carel prisé, vi. l. t. (livres tournois).
"Item quatre pentes de ciel de cotton blanc à carreaux.
"Item trois pentes de ciel de thoille de lin à carreaux et raiseuil recouvert avec le dossier pareil estoffe, et petit carreau à point couppé garny de leur frange, le fonds du ciel de thoille de lin, trois custodes et une bonne grace et un drap pareille thoille de lin à bandes de reseuil recouvert ... prisé xviii. l. t."--Inv. de Charles de Bourbon.
"Item une autre tapisserie de rezeuil de thoile blanche en huit pièces contenant ensemble vingt aulnes on environ sur deux aulnes trois quarts de haute.
"Item une autre tenture de tapisserie de rézeau tout de leine (lin) appliquée sur de la toille blanche en sept pièces contenant dix-huit aulnes de cours sur trois aulnes de haute.
"Item trois pantes, fonds de dossier, les deux fourreaux de piliers, la converture de parade, le tout en point couppé et toillé.
"Item, une garniture de lict blanc, faict par carré d'ouvrage de poinct couppé, le tout garny avec la couverte de parade, prisé la somme de soixante livres tournois."--Inv. de la Comtesse de Soissons.
[66] Dated 20 Feb., 1587. Now in the Record Office, Edinburgh.
[67] 1781. "Dix-huit Pales de differentes grandeurs, tous de toile garnis tant de petite dentelle que de filet brodé."--Inv. de l'Eglise de S. Gervais. Arch. Nat. L.L. 654.
[68] Point and Pillow Lace, by A. M. S. (London, 1899).
[69] In the Record Office, Edinburgh.
[70] "Mache, the Masches (meshes) or holes of a net between the thread and thread" (Cotgrave).
[71] Comptes de la Reine de Navarre, 1577. Arch. Nat. K.K. 162.
[72] Inventory of Catherine de Médicis, Bonaffé.
[73] Randle Holme, in The School Mistris Terms of Art for all her Ways of Sewing, has "A Samcloth, vulgarly, a Samplar."
[74] In the Bock collection, part of which has since been bought for the Victoria and Albert Museum, are specimens of "rézeuil d'or," or network with patterns worked in with gold thread and coloured silks. Such were the richly-wrought "serviettes sur filez d'or" of Margaret of Austria.
"Autre servyette de Cabes (Cadiz) ouvrée d'or, d'argent sur fillez et bordée d'or et de gris.
"Autre serviette à Cabes de soye grise et verde à ouvrage de fillez bordée d'une tresse de verd et gris."--Inventory already quoted.
[75] "Le Gan," de Jean Godard, Parisien, 1588.
[76] Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Tapestry and Embroidery in the South Kensington Museum (p. 5).
[77] Lace. French, dentelle; German, Spitzen; Italian, merletto, trina; Genoa, pizzo; Spanish, encaje; Dutch, kanten.
[78] Statute 3 Edw. IV. c. iii.
[79] "Passement, a lace or lacing."--Cotgrave.
[80] Not in those of Rob. Estienne, 1549; Frère de l'Aval, 1549; or Nicot, 1606. Cotgrave has, "Dentelle, small edging (and indented), bone-lace, or needlework." In Dict. de l'Académie, 1694, we find, "Dentelle, sorte de passement à jour et à mailles tres fines ainsi nommé parceque les premières qu'on fit etoient dentelées."
[81] Comptes de l'Argentier du Roi, 1557.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 106. "Passement de fine soie noire dentelle d'un costé." "Passement blanc," "grise," also occur.
[82] Argenterie de la Reine, 1556.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 118.
[83] Dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, soeur du Roi.--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 10,394, fol. 62.
[84] "Plus de delivré une pacque de petite dentelle qui est estez cousu ensemble pour mettre sur les coutures des rideaux des ditz litz contenant 80 aunes."--Rec. Off., Edin. This custom of trimming the seams of bed-curtains with a lace indented on both sides was common throughout Europe. In the Chartley Inv. of Mary Stuart, 1586, one of the Vasquines (jackets) is described, "Autre de satin noir descouppée a descouppemie dentelés."
[85] 1577. "Pour deux aulnes de passement d'argent a hautte dantelle pour mettre à ung renvers, au pris de soixante solz l'aulne.
"Pour une aulne de dentelle pour faire deux cornettes pour servir à la dicte dame, quatre livres."--Cptes. de la Reine de Navarre. Arch. Nat. K. K. 162.
[86] See APPENDIX.
[87] "Petits et grands passements; id. à l'esguille; id. faict au mestier; id. de Flandres à poinctes; id. orangé à jour; id. de Flandres satiné;" with "reseuil, dantelles, grandes et petites, or, argent," etc.--Inv. de Madame, soeur du Roi. Arch. Nat. K. K. 234.
So late as 1645, in the inventory of the church of St. Médard at Paris (Arch de l'Emp. L. L. 858), the word is used. We find, "Quatre tours de chaire de thoille baptiste, ung beau surplis pour le predicateur, six autres, cinq corporaulx," all "à grand passement." Also, "deux petits corporaulx à petit passement," and "trois tours de chaire garnyz de grand passement à dentelle."
[88] Inv. apres le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de La Motte.--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426.
[89] The French terms are more comprehensive:--
Champ, fond travaillé à jour.
Toilé, fleurs entièrement remplies, formant un tissu sans jour.
Grillé, grillage, plein. Also flowers--but distinguished from toilé by having little square spaces between the thread (grillé, grating), the work not being so compact.
"On appelle couleuvre, une blond dont le toilé continue serpente entre deux rangs de grillage."--Roland de la Platière (the Girondin). Art. Dentelle, Encyclopédie Méthodique. Paris, 1780.
[90] Storehouse of Armory and Blason. 1688.
[91] "Brides--petits tissus de fil qui servent à joindre les fleurs les unes avec les autres dans l'espèce de dentelle qu'on appelle Point de France, de Venise, de Malines."--Dict de l'Académie.
[92] "Une robe et tablier, garnis d'une dentelle d'Angleterre à picot."--Inv. de decès de la Duchesse de Bourbon. Arch. Nat. X. 10,064.
[93] "Une chemisette de toile d'hollande garnye de point de Paris."--Inv. d'Anne d'Escoubleau, Baronne de Sourdis, veuve de François de Simiane. 1681. Arch. Nat. M. M. 802.
[94] "Cette dernière sorte de point se fait aux fuseaux."--Dict. du P. Richelet. Lyon. 1759.
[95] Dict. d'Ant. Furetière. Augmenté par M. Basnage. La Haye, 1727.
[96] 1656.
[97] 1651. "Huit aulnes de toile commune garnies de neige."--Inv. des emubles de la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jésus, à Paris. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8621.
"Neuf autres petites nappes; les deux premières de toile unie; la troisième à dentelle quallifié de neige."--Ibid.
[98] French, dentelle à fuseaux; Italian, merli a piombini; Dutch, gespeldewerkte kant; Old Flemish, spelle werk.
[99] French, carreau, cousin, oreiller; Italian, tombolo; Venice, ballon; Spanish, mundillo.
[100] See Chapter XXIV.
[101] The number of bobbins is generally equal to 50 to each square inch. If the lace be one inch wide, it will have 625 meshes in each square inch, or 22,500 in a yard. The work, therefore, goes on very slowly, though generally performed with the greatest dexterity.
[102] At Gisors, Saint-Denis, Montmorency, and Villiers-le-Bel.--Savary, Grand Dict. du Commerce, 1720.
Cotgrave gives, "Bisette, a plate (of gold, silver, or copper) wherewith some kinds of stuffes are stripped." Oudin, "Feuille ou paillette d'or ou d'argent." In these significations it frequently occurs. We find with numerous others:
"1545. 55 sols pour une once bizette d'argent pour mectre à des colletz."
"Six aulnes bizette de soie noire pour mettre sur une robbe, lv. s.," in the Accounts of Madame Marguerite de France. (Bib. Nat.)
"1557. Bizette de soye incarnatte et jaulne pour chamarrer ung pourpoint de satin rouge" of Henry II.--Cptes. de l'Argentier du Roi. Arch. Nat. K. K. 106.
"1579. Petite bizette d'or fin dentellez des deux costez pour servir à desmanches de satin cramoisy" of Catherine de Médicis.--Trésorerie de la royne mère du roy. Arch. Nat. K. K. 115.
In the Chartley Inv. 1586, of Mary Stuart, is mentioned, "Un plotton de bisette noire."
[103] Dict. de l'Académie.
[104] Campane, from sonnette, clochette, même grêlot. "Les sonnettes dont on charge les habits pour ornement. Les festons qu'on met aux étoffes et aux dentelles."--Oudin.
[105] Public Record Office.
[106] In the last century it was much the fashion to trim the scalloped edges of a broader lace with a narrower, which was called to "campaner."
1720. "Une garniture de teste à trois pièces de dentelle d'Angleterre à raiseau, garni autour d'une campane à dents."--Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon.
1741. "Une paire de manches à trois rangs de Malines à raizeau campanée."--Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle Marie Anne de Bourbon de Clermont. Arch. Nat. X. 11,071. (Daughter of Mademoiselle de Nantes and Louis Duke de Bourbon.)
"Une coëffure de Malines à raizeau à deux pièces campanée."--Ibid.
In the lace bills of Madame du Barry, preserved in the Bib. Nat., are various entries of Angleterre et point à l'aiguille, "campanée des deux côtés" for ruffles, camisoles, etc.
[107] 1759. "Huit palatines tant points que mignonettes."--Inv. de decès de Louise Henriette de Bourbon-Conty, Princesse du Sang, Duchesse de Orléans. Arch. Nat. X. 10,077.
"Trente-vingt paires de manchettes, quatre coëffures, le tout tant de differents points qu'Angleterre, mignonettes que tulles."--Ibid.
[108] 1758. "Une paire de manchettes à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur entoilage."--Inv. de Mademoiselle Louise Anne de Bourbon Condé de Charollais (sister of Mademoiselle de Clermont). Arch. Nat. X. 10,076.
1761. "Fichus garnis à trois rangs de blonde de fil sur entoilage."--Inv. de Charlotte Aglaë d'Orléans, Princesse du Sang, Duchesse de Modène (daughter of the Regent).
1789. Ruffles of blonde de fil appear also in the Inv. de decès de Monseigneur le Duc de Duras. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,440.
[109] Mostly at Bayeux.
[110] "On employe aussi pour les coëffures de la mignonette, et on a tellement perfectionné cette dentelle, que estant peu de chose dans son commencement est devenue de consequence et même très chère, j'entends, la plus fine qu'on fait sur de beaux patrons."--Le Mercure Galant, 1699.
[111] "Guiper. Tordre les fils pendans d'une frange par le moyen de l'instrument qu'on nomme guipoir, fer crochu d'un côté, et chargé de l'autre d'un petit morceau de plomb pour lui donner du poids."--Savary.
[112] "Guipure. A grosse black thread covered or whipped about with silk."--Cotgrave.
"Guipure. Manière de dentelle de soie où il y a des figures de rose ou d'autres fleurs, et qui sert à parer les jupes des dames.... Sa jupe est pleine de guipure."--Dict. du P. Richelet. 1759.
[113] Roland. We cannot help thinking this a mistake. In the statutes of the Passementiers, we find mention of buttons "à têtes de mort," or would it rather be "tête de moire," from the black moire hoods (têtes) worn by the Italian women, which were often edged with a narrow guipure?
[114] Les lieux en France où il se fait le plus de guipures, sont Saint-Denis-en-France, Villiers-le-Bel, Ecouën, Arcelles, Saint-Brice, Groslait, Montmorency, Tremblay, Villepinte, etc.
[115] The sale of Guipures belonged to the master mercers, the workmanship to the passementiers boutonniers. We find in the Livre Commode ou les Adresses de la Ville de Paris for 1692, that "Guipures et galons de soye se vendent sur le Petit Pont et rue aux Febvres, où l'on vend aussi des galons de livrées."
[116] Godefroy. Le Cérémonial de France, 1610. Sacre du Roy Henry II., 1547.
[117] In 1549. Ibid.
[118] Traité des Marques Nationales, dar M. Beneton de Morange de Peyrins. Paris, 1739.
[119] In the Record Office, Edinburgh.
[120] Une robe de velours vert couverte de Broderies, gimpeures, et cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même.
Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent.
Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure d'or.
Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc.
Robe de weloux noyr semée geynpeurs d'or.
[121] Dictionnaire de l'Académie.
[122] 1536-44. Sir Fred. Madden.
2 payr of sleeves whereof one of gold w^h p'chemene lace, etc.
2 prs. of sleves w^h pchmyn lase, 8/6.
[123] Ecclesiastical Memoirs, iii. 2, 167.
[124] State Papers, vol. 82, P. R. O.
[125] Surtees' Society, Durham, "Wills and Inventories."
[126] 1572. Thynne, in his Debate between Pride and Lowliness, describes a coat "layd upon with parchment lace withoute."
[127] B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
[128] Roll. 1607. P. R. O.
[129] Ibid. 1626. 11 nightcaps of coloured satin, laid on thick, with gold and silver parchment lace, 41. 9. 9.
[130] Roll. 1630.
[131] "Eidem pro novemdecem vir[=g] et di[=m] aureæ et argenteæ pergame[=n] laciniæ pondent sexdecim un[=c] 2/[dram] 1/[scruple] venet. ... pro consua[=t] ad ornan[=d] duas sedes utroque latere thronæ in domo Parliament."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. II. xxx. and xxxi. = 1678-9.
In 1672-73 is an entry for "2 virgis teniæ pergame[=n]."
[132] Surtees' "Inventories."
[133] Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8621.
[134] In the Recueil de pièces les plus agréables de ce temps, composées par divers autheurs. Paris, chez Charles Sercy, MDCLXI.
The poem is dedicated to Mademoiselle de la Trousse, cousin of Madame de Sévigné, and was probably written by one of her coterie.
[135] The Cravates or Croates soldiers had a band of stuff round their throats to support an amulet they wore as a charm to protect them from sabre-cuts. What began in superstition ended in fashion.
[136] These were, in France, Guibray, Beaucaire, and Bordeaux; in Germany, Frankfort; in Italy, Novi.
[137] All articles of luxury were to be met with at the provincial fairs. When, in 1671, Catherine of Braganza, the Duchess of Richmond, and the Duke of Buckingham, visited Saffron Walden fair, the Queen asked for a pair of yellow stockings, and Sir Bernard Gascoyne, for a pair of gloves stitched with blue.
[138] 10 Hen. III., Devon's Issues of the Exchequer.
[139] "No lace-woman," says Ben Jonson, "that brings French masks and cut-works." That lace was sold by pedlars in the time of Henry VIII., we find from a play, "The Four P's," written in 1544, by John Heywood. Among the contents of a pedlar's box are given "lasses knotted," "laces round and flat for women's heads," "sleeve laces," etc.
On opening the box of the murdered pedlar (Fool of Quality, 1766), "they found therein silk, linen, laces," etc.
[140] Defoe describes Sturbridge fair as the greatest of all Europe. "Nor," says he, "are the fairs of Leipsig in Saxony, the Mart at Frankfort-on-the-Maine, or the fair of Nuremburg or Augsburg, any way comparable to this fair of Sturbridge."
In 1423, the citizens of London and the suburbs being accused of sending works of "embroidery of gold, or silver, of Cipre, or of gold of Luk, togedre with Spanish Laton of insuffisant stuff to the fayres of Sturesbrugg, Ely, Oxenford, and Salisbury"--in fact, of palming off inferior goods for country use--"all such are forfeited."--Rot. Parl., 2 Hen. VI., nu. 49.
[141] "Lingua, or the Combat of the Tongue." A Comedy. 1607.
[142] This system of colporteurs dates from the early Greeks. They are termed both in Greek and Hebrew, "des voyageurs."
[143] "She came to the house under the pretence of offering some lace, holland, and fine tea, remarkably cheap."--Female Spectator. 1757.
[144] The centres of the lace manufacture before 1665 were:--
BELGIUM Brussels, Mechlin, Antwerp, Liége, Louvain, Binche, Bruges, Ghent, Ypres, Courtray, etc.
FRANCE (Spread over more than ten Provinces)-- Artois Arras (Pas-de-Calais). French Flanders Lille, Valenciennes, Bailleul (Nord). Normandy Dieppe, Le Hâvre (Seine-Inférieure). Ile de France Paris and its environs. Auvergne Aurillac (Cantal). Velay Le Puy (Haute-Loire). Lorraine Mirecourt (Vosges). Burgundy Dijon (Côte-d'or). Champagne Charleville, Sedan (Ardennes). Lyonnais Lyon (Rhône). Poitou Loudun (Vienne). Languedoc Muret (Haute-Garonne).
ITALY Genoa, Venice, Milan, Ragusa, etc. SPAIN La Mancha, and in Catalonia especially. GERMANY Saxony, Bohemia, Hungary, Denmark, and Principality of Gotha. ENGLAND Counties of Bedford, Bucks, Dorset, and Devon.
[145] Industrial Arts of the Nineteenth Century, Digby Wyatt.
[146] Francesco Nardi. Sull' Origine dell' Arte del Ricamo. Padova, 1839.
[147] Ricamare. Recamar.
[148] The traditions of the Low Countries also point to an Eastern origin, assigning the introduction of lace-making to the Crusaders, on their return from the Holy Land.
[149] Origine ed Uso delle Trine a filo di refe (thread), 1864. Privately printed.
[150] 1469.--Io, Battista de Nicollo d'Andrea da Ferrara, debio avere per mia manifatura et reve per cuxere et candelle per inzirare.... It. per desgramitare e refilare e inzirare e ripezare e reapicare le gramite a camixi quatordece per li signori calonexi, et per li, mansonarij le qual gramite staxea malissimamente, p. che alcune persone le a guaste, Lire 1 10. It. per reve et p. candelle, L. 0 5.
1469.--I, Baptist de Nicollo of Andrea da Ferrara, having owing to me for my making, and thread to sew, and candles to wax.... Item, for untrimming and re-weaving and waxing and refixing and rejoining the trimmings of fourteen albs for the canons and attendants of the church, the which trimmings were in a very bad state, because some persons had spoiled them, L. 1 10. It. for thread and wax, L. 0 5.
These trimmings (gramite), Cav. Merli thinks, were probably "trine."
"At Chicago was exhibited the first kind of net used in Italy as lace on garments. It is made of a very fine linen or silk mesh, stiffened with wax and embroidered in silk thread. It was in use during the fourteenth century, and part of the fifteenth" (Guide to New and Old Lace in Italy, C. di Brazza, 1893). This is probably the gramite, or trimmings of the albs, mentioned in the account book formerly belonging to the Cathedral of Ferrara, and now preserved in the Municipal Archives of that city.
[151] See MILAN.
[152] Trina, like our word lace, is used in a general sense for braid or passement. Florio, in his Dictionary (A Worlde of Words, John Florio, London, 1598), gives Trine--cuts, snips, pincke worke on garments; and Trinci--gardings, fringings, lacings, etc., or other ornaments of garments.
Merlo, merletto, are the more modern terms for lace. We find the first as early as the poet Firenzuola (see FLORENCE). It does not occur in any pattern book of an older date than the "Fiori da Ricami" of Pasini, and the two works of Francesco de' Franceschi, all printed in 1591.
[153] The laces, both white and gold, depicted in the celebrated picture of the Visit of the Queen of Sheba to Solomon, by Lavinia Fontana, now in the Lambeccari Gallery, executed in the sixteenth century, prove that white lace was in general use in the Italian Courts at that epoch.
[154] At present, if you show an Italian a piece of old lace, he will exclaim, "Opera di monache; roba di chiesa."
[155] Statute 2, Henry VI., 1423. The first great treaty between the Venetians and Henry VII. was in 1507.
[156] Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York, 1502. P. R. O. Also published by Sir H. Nicolas.
[157] Inv. Henry VIII.
[158] Gremio, when suing for Bianca, enumerates among his wealth in ivory coffers stuffed, "Turkey cushions bossed with pearl; valance of Venice gold in needlework."--Taming of the Shrew.
[159] "One jerkyn of cloth of silver with long cuts down righte, bound with a billament lace of Venice silver and black silk."--Robes of the late King (Edward VI.).
[160] "A smock of cambrik wrought about the collar and sleeves with black silke; the ruffe wrought with Venice gold and edged with a small bone lace of Venice gold."--Christmas Presents to the Queen, by Sir G. Carew. "7 ounces of Venice 'laquei bone' of gold and black silk; lace ruff edged with Venice gold lace," etc. G. W. A. Eliz., passim, P. R. O.
[161] 1587.
[162] Madame de Puissieux died in 1677, at the age of eighty.
[163] Venice points are not mentioned by name till the ordinance of 1654. See GREEK ISLANDS.
[164] Hudibras.
[165] Italy we believe to have furnished her own thread. "Fine white or nun's thread is made by the Augustine nuns of Crema, twisted after the same manner as the silk of Bolonia," writes Skippin, 1651.
[166] Halimedia opuntia, Linn.
[167] That most frequently met with is the Corona of Vecellio. See APPENDIX.
[168] First mentioned in the Sforza Inventory, 1493 (see MILAN); not in the pattern-books till Vecellio, 1592; but Taglienti (1530) gives "su la rete," and "Il specchio di Pensieri" (1548), "purito in rede."
[169] Plate V.
[170] First given in the Honesto Esempio. 1550 and passim.
[171] Mentioned by Taglienti (1530), and afterwards in the Trionfo (1555), and passim.
[172] Given in Il Monte, circ. 1550, but described by Firenzuola earlier. See FLORENCE.
[173] See Chap. III., notes 104 and 106.
[174] "Toile de la Pale."--A pasteboard about eight inches square, enclosed in cambric or lace, used to cover the paten when laid over the cup.
[175] The whole furniture of a room taken from a palace at Naples, comprising curtains, and vallance of a bed, window curtains, toilet, etc., of straw-coloured laces, reticella, embroidered netting, etc.; the price asked was 18,000 francs = £720. There was also much of the rose point, and a handkerchief bordered with beautiful flat Venetian point of the same colour, forming part of a trousseau. 700 francs = £28.
[176] Taglienti (1530) has groppi, moreschi, and arabeschi; and Il Specchio (1548), ponti gropposi. See also the Sforza Inventory, 1493.
[177] See GENOA.
[178] Taglienti (1530) gives a magliata, Parasole (1600) lavori di maglia.
[179] Punti a stuora occur in Il Specchio (1548), I Frutti (1564), and in the Vera Perfettione (1591) the word stuora (modern, stuoja) means also a mat of plaited rushes, which some of these interlaced patterns may be intended to imitate.
[180] Burato. See APPENDIX.
[181] There are many patterns for this work in Le Pompe di Minerva, 1642. Taglienti (1530) has desfilato among his punti.
[182] Many other points are enumerated in the pattern-books, of which we know nothing, such as gasii (I Frutti, 1564), trezola (Ibid), rimessi (Vera Perfettione, 1591), opere a mazzette (Vecellio, 1591, and Lucretia Bomana, N.D.).
[183] Tracts on Trade of the Seventeenth Century, published by MacCulloch, at the expense of Lord Monteagle. 1856.
[184] Venice point forms a considerable item in the expenses of Charles II. and his brother James.
[185] Venice noted "for needlework laces, called points."--Travels Thro' Italy and France, by J. Ray. 1738.
[186] Misson, F. M., Nouveau Voyage d'Italie, 4me édition. La Haye, 1702.
[187] Origine delle Feste Veneziane, da Giustina R. Michiel. Milano, 1829.
[188] _An Itinerary, containing his Ten Yeeres Travel through Germany, Bohmerland, Switzerland, Netherland, Denmark, Poland, Italy, Turkey, France, England, Scotland, and Ireland._ Lond., 1617.
[189] 1591.
[190] See, in APPENDIX, designs for bavari by Lucrezia.
[191] The entry of the Venetian ambassador, Mocenigo, is described in the Mercure Galant, 1709:--
"Il avoit un rabat de point de Venise.... Sa robe de damas noir avec des grandes manches qui pendoient par derrière. Cette robe etoit garnie de dentelle noir."
[192] Letters from Italy. So, in a play of Goldoni, who wrote in the middle of the last century, the lady has a Brussels (Angleterre) head-dress.
Don Flaminio: "Mi par bellisima cotesto pizzo Barbara: E un punto d'Inghilterra che ha qualche merito."--Gli Amori di Zelinda e Lindoro.
In Goldoni's plays all the ladies make lace on the pillow (ballon), so the art of making the needle Venice point was probably at an end.
[193] "La plus belle dentelle noire fait l'espèce de camail qui, sous un chapeau noir emplumé, couvre leurs épaules et leur tête."--Madame du Boccage, 1735. Lettres sur l'Italie.
"Quella specie de lungo capuocio di finissimo merlo pur nero, chiamato bauta."--Michiel.
[194] "L'île de Burano où l'on fabrique les dentelles."--Quadri, Huit Jours à Venise.
[195] Technical History of Venetian Laces, Urbani de Gheltof. Translated by Lady Layard. Venice, 1882.
Origines de la Dentelle de Venise et l'École de Burano. Venice, 1897.
Traditions of lace-making were kept alive in Venice, Cantu and Liguria during the first half of the nineteenth century by the manufacture of an inferior quality of blonde, once extensively made at Venice, which has since died out, owing to the revival in the production of thread-lace and guipures at Palestrina.
[196] "Velleto (veil) uno d'oro filato.
"Payro uno fodrete (pillow-case) di cambria lavorate a gugia (à l'aiguille).
"Lenzuolo (sheet) uno di revo di tele (linen thread), cinque lavorato a punto.
"Peza una de tarnete (trina) d'argento facte a stelle.
"Lenzolo uno de tele, quatro lavorato a radexelo (reticello).
"Peze quatro de radexela per mettere ad uno moscheto (zanzariere, mosquito curtain).
"Tarneta una d'oro et seda negra facta da ossi (bones).
"Pecto uno d'oro facto a grupi.
"Lavoro uno de rechamo facto a grupi dove era suso le pere de Madona Biancha.
"Binda una lavorata a poncto de doii fuxi (two bobbins) per uno lenzolo."--Instrumento di divizione tre le sorelle Angela ed Ippolita Sforza Visconti, di Milano, 1493, Giorno di Giovedì, 12 Settembre.
[197] "La mità de uno fagotto quale aveva dentro certi dissegni da lavorare le donne."
[198] Harl. MS. No. 1419.
[199] Roll. P. R. O.
[200] P. R. O.
[201] De la Mare, Traité de la Police.
[202] "Statuts, Ordonnances et Reglemens de la Communauté des Maistres Passementiers, etc., de Paris, confirmez sur les anciens Statuts du 23 mars 1558." Paris, 1719.
[203] Grand Dictionnaire Universel du Commerce. 1723.
[204] Voyage en Italie. 1765.
[205] Peuchet, J., Dictionnaire Universel de la Géographie Commerçante. Paris, An vii. = 1799.
[206] Letters from Italy, by a lady. 1770.
"Questo collar scolpì la donna mia De basso rilevar, ch' Aracne mai, E chi la vinse nol faria più bello. Mira quel bel fogliame, ch' un acanto Sembra, che sopra un mur vada carponi. Mira quei fior, ch' un candido ne cade Vicino al seme, apr' or la bocia l'altro. Quei cordiglin, che'l legan d'ognitorno, Come rilevan ben! mostrando ch' ella E' la vera maestra di quest' arte, Com ben compartiti son quei punti! Ve' come son ugual quei bottoncelli, Come s' alzano in guisa d'un bel colle L'un come l' altro!... Questi merli da man, questi trafori Fece pur ella, et questo punto a spina, Che mette in mezzo questo cordoncello, Ella il fe pure, ella lo fece." --Elegia sopra un Collaretto, Firenzuola (circ. 1520).
[208] Rymer's Foedera (38 Hen. VIII. = 1546).
[209] 4 Hen. VII. = 1488-89.
[210] Compte des dépenses de la maison de Madame Marguerite de France, Soeur du Roi.--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 10,394.
[211] Comptes de la Reine de Navarre.--Arch. Nat., K. K. 170.
[212] In 1535.
[213] She died in 1862.
[214] See VENICE, 1.
[215] Inventaire du Trésor de N. D. de Lorette.--Bib. Nat. MSS.
[216] Letters from Italy.
[217] The gremial, or apron, placed on the lap of the Roman Catholic bishops when performing sacred functions in a sitting posture.--Pugin's Glossary of Ecclesiastical Ornament.
[218] This reminds one of the lines of Goldsmith, in his poem, "The Haunch of Venison," the giving of venison to hungry poets who were in want of mutton; he says:
"Such dainties to send them their health it would hurt; It's like sending them ruffles when wanting a shirt."
[219] A true Relation of the Travailes, and most miserable Captivitie of W. Davies. Lond., 1614.
[220] An Italian Voyage, or a Complete Journey through Italy, by Rich. Lassels, Gent. 2nd edit., Lond., 1698. A reprint, with additions by another hand, of the original edition. Paris, 1670. Lowndes' Bibliographer's Manual. Bohn's new edit.
[221] "Portano alcune vesti di tela di lino sottile, lunghe fino in terra, con maniche larghe assai, attorno alle quali sono attaccati alcuni merletti lavorati di refe sottilissimo."--Habiti di donna dell' Isola d' Ischia. Degli Habiti Antichi e Moderni di Diverse Parti del Mondo di Cesare Vecellio. Venezia, 1590.
[222] We have among the points given by Taglienti (1530), "pugliese." Lace is still made in Puglia and the other southern provinces of Naples and in Sicily.
The Contessa di Brazza says that Punto Pugliese resembled Russian and Roumanian embroidery.
[223] Brydone, Tour through Sicily. 1773.
[224] From the tax-books preserved in the Archives of S. George, it appears that a tax upon gold thread of four danari upon every lira in value of the worked material was levied, which between 1411 and 1420 amounted to L. 73,387. From which period this industry rapidly declined, and the workers emigrated.--Merli.
[225] Signore Tessada, the great lace fabricant of Genoa, carries back the manufacture of Italian lace as early as the year 1400, and forwarded to the author specimens which he declares to be of that date.
[226] "Laqueo serico Jeano de coloribus, ad 5s. per doz." G. W. A. Eliz.--16 & 17 and 19 & 20. P. R. O.
[227] Dated 1639.
[228] Garderobe de feue Madame. 1646. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426.
[229] Le Vray Théatre d'Honneur et de Chevalerie. Paris, 1648.
[230] Queen Christina is described by the Grande Mademoiselle, on the occasion of her visit, as wearing "au cou, un mouchoir de point de Gênes, noué avec un ruban couleur de feu."--Mém. de Mademoiselle de Montpensier.
"Item, ung peignoir, tablier et cornette de toile baptiste garnie de point de Gênes."--1644. Inv. de la Comtesse de Soissons.
"Un petit manteau brodé et son collet de point de Gênes."--The Chevalier d'Albret.
"Linge, bijoux et points de Gênes."--Loret, Muse Historique. 1650.
"Item, ung autre mouchoir de point de Gênes."--Inv. du Maréchal de La Motte. 1657.
[231] Mém., t. xiv., p. 286.
[232] Signore Tessada has in his possession a pair of gold lappets of very beautiful design, made at Genoa about the year 1700.
[233] Letters from Italy. 1770.
[234] Cavasco. Statistique de Gênes. 1840.
[235] The bobbins appear to have been made in Italy of various materials. We have Merletti a fusi, in which case they are of wood. The Sforza inventory gives a doii fuxi, "two bobbins," then a ossi, "of bone," and, lastly, a piombini; and it is very certain that lead was used for bobbins in Italy. See PARASOLE (1600).
[236] Memorie Storiche di Santa Margherita. Genoese pillow-laces are not made with the réseau, but joined by bars. Of Milan lace it is said, "It resembles Genoese pillow-lace in having the same scrolls and flowers formed by a ribbon in close stitch, with a mesh or tulle ground, whereas the Genoese lace is held together by bars."--C. di Brazza, Old and New Lace in Italy (1893).
[237] Lefébure writes, "A version of these Milanese laces has been produced by using tape for the scroll forms and flowers, and filling in the open portions between the tapes by needlework stitches." The C. di Brazza calls similar lace Punto di Rapallo or Liguria, a lace formed by a ribbon or braid of close lace following the outline of the design with fancy gauze stitches made by knotting with a crochet needle. The special characteristic of this lace is that the braid is constantly thrown over what has gone before. The design is connected by brides. A modification, where the braid is very fine and narrow, and the turnings extremely complicated, and enriched by no fancy stitches between, is Punto a Vermicelli.--Old and New Lace in Italy.
[238] Communicated by Sig. Gio. Tessada, Junr., of Genoa.
[239] Gandolfi, Considerazioni Agrario.
[240] A small borgo, about an hour's drive from Savona, on the road leading to Genoa.
[241] Cav. Merli.
[242] In the Albert Museum of Exeter are several of these tallies marked with the names of their owners--Bianca, Maria Crocera, and others.
[243] "Many skilful lace-makers in Italy have for some time imitated the old laces and sold them as such to travellers. A Venetian lace-worker, now residing at Ferrara, can copy any old lace known" (Mrs. Palliser, 1864).
[244] This lappet, 357-68, in the Victoria and Albert Museum collection, was described by Mrs. Palliser as "Argentella," and supposed to be of Genoese workmanship. "Formerly much of it was to be met with in the curiosity shops of that city, but now it is of rare occurrence. The Duchess of Genoa possesses a splendid flounce of the same lace, with the Doria eagle introduced into the pattern. It formerly belonged to the Marchesa Barbaretta Saule" (Mrs. Palliser, History of Lace, 1864). Contessa di Brazza suggests that Argentella was the Italian for Argentan.
[245] Called by the people of the Riviera, filo del baccalà di Castellaro. Aloe fibre was formerly used for thread (Letter of Sig. C. G. Schiappapietra). It is also styled filo di freta in the Venetian sumptuary ordinances.
[246] The Author has to express her grateful thanks to Signore Don Tommaso Torteroli, librarian to the city of Savona, and the author of an interesting pamphlet (Storia dei Merletti di Genova lavorati in Albissola, Sinigaglia, 1863), for specimens of the ancient laces of Albissola, and many other valuable communications.
[247] A word of Arabic derivation, used for denoting a fringe for trimming, whether cotton, thread, or silk.
[248] This custom of ornamenting the ends of the threads of linen was from the earliest times common, and is still occasionally met with both in the north and south of Europe. "At Bayonne they make the finest of linen, some of which is made open like network, and the thread is finer than hair" (Ingenious and Diverting Letters of a Lady's Travels in Spain, London, 1679).
There is a painting of the "Last Supper" at Hampton Court Palace, by Sebastian Ricci, in which the tablecloth is edged with cut-work; and in the great picture in the Louvre, by Paul Veronese, of the supper at the house of Simon the Canaanite, the ends of the tablecloth are likewise fringed and braided like the macramé.
[249] LACE SCHOOLS IN ITALY.--At Coccolia, near Ravenna, Countess Pasolini founded a school on her property to teach and employ the peasant women and copy antique designs. Another more recently established school near Udine, in the province of Friuli, is under the direction of the Contessa di Brazza. Among charitable institutions which interest themselves in the lace industry are the Industrial School of SS. Ecce Homo at Naples, and San Ramiri at Pisa, which was originally founded by the Grand Dukes of Tuscany in the middle of the eighteenth century to teach weaving. This industry, and that of straw-plaiting, met with no success, and the school gradually developed into an industrial school in the modern sense. There are many schools on the same system in Florence, and one (San Pelegrino) at Bologna. At Sassari, in Sardinia, the deaf and dumb children in the great institution of the "Figlie di Maria" are taught to make net lace. Torchon and Brussels pillow lace is worked under the direction of the Sisters of Providence in the women's prison at Perugia.
[250] Laborde, Glossaire. Paris, 1853.
[251] Statute 2 Hen. VI., c. x., 1423.
[252] Taglienti (1530) among his punti gives Ciprioto (an embroidery stitch).
[253] Description de Raguse (Bib. Nat. MSS., F.Fr. 10,772).
[254] Points de Raguse--first mentioned in an Edict of January, 1654, by which the king raises for his own profit one quarter of the value of the "passems, dentelles, points coupez de Flandres, pointinars, points de Venise, de Raguse, de Gênes," etc. (Recueil des Lois Françaises). Again, the Ordinance of August, 1665, establishes the points de France, "en la manière des points qui se font à Venise, Gênes, Raguse, et autres pays étrangers," recited in the Arrêt of Oct. 12th, 1666.--De Lamare, Traité de la Police.
[255] See VENICE.
[256] In 1661.
[257] See head of chapter.
[258] In 1667.
[259] See APPENDIX.
[260] A Descriptive Catalogue of the Collections of Lace in the Victoria and Albert Museum, by the late Mrs. Bury Palliser. Third edition, revised and enlarged by A. S. Cole.
[261] Edinburgh Advertiser, 1764.
[262] There is no corroboration of Mrs. Palliser's statement above that lace was ever made in Malta; if so, it would have been of the Genoese geometrical kind, of which Lady Hamilton Chichester adapted the designs and evolved what is now known as Maltese lace by the aid of workers imported from Genoa. The Maltese cross has been introduced into the designs as a distinguishing mark.
[263] "A lace of similar character (Maltese) has also been made successfully in the missionary schools at Madras" (Mrs. Palliser).
[264] Lefébure, Embroidery and Lace.
[265] In the Philippine Islands the natives work Manilla grass into a sort of drawn thread-work or tatting.
[266] 1756. Point d'Espagne hats.--Connoisseur.
[267] Beckmann, in his History of Inventions, says that "It was a fashion to give the name of Spanish to all kinds of novelties, such as Spanish flies, Spanish wax, Spanish green, Spanish grass, Spanish seed, and others."
[268] A. S. Cole. "Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-Making."
[269] Livre Nouveau de Patrons and Fleurs des Patrons give various stitches to be executed "en fil d'or, d'argent, de soie, et d'autres." Both printed at Lyons. The first has no date; the second, 1549. Le Pompe, Venezia, 1559, has "diversi sorti di mostre per poter far, d'oro, di sete, di filo," etc.
[270] "Not many years since, a family at Cadiz, of Jewish extraction, still enjoyed the monopoly of manufacturing gold and silver lace."--Letter from Spain, 1863. Merletto Polichrome, or parti-coloured lace, was also invented and perfected by the Jews, and was made in silk of various colours, representing fruit and flowers. This industry has been revived in Venice, and carried to great perfection.
[271] Senor J. F. Riano. The Industrial Arts in Spain.--"Lace."
[272] "Spain has 8,932 convents, containing 94,000 nuns and monks."--Townsend, J., Journey Through Spain in the Years 1786 and 1787.
[273] The aloe thread is now used in Florence for sewing the straw-plait.
[274] Barcelona, 1892, page 225, quoted by Signor J. F. Riano. Date of book 1592.
[275] A. S. Cole, Ancient Needle-point and Pillow-Lace.
[276] This ordinance even extended to foreign courts. We read in the Mercure Galant, 1679, of the Spanish ambassadress, "Elle etoit vestue de drap noir avec de la dentelle de soye; elle n'avait ni dentelle ni linge autour de sa gorge."
[277] Mercure François.
[278] They have also provided--
"14 ruffs & 14 pairs of cuffs laced, at 20s. £14
For lacing 8 hats for the footmen with silver parchment lace, at 3s. £1 4s."
Extraordinary Expenses of his Highness to Spain, 1623. P. R. O.
[279] Doctor Monçada, in 1660, and Osorio, in 1686, reckoned more than three millions of Spaniards who, though well dressed, wore no shirts.--Townsend's Spain.
[280] Speaking of the apartment of Madame d'Aranda, Beckford writes: "Her bed was of the richest blue velvet, trimmed with point lace."
[281] Our English translation of Don Quixote has led some authors into adducing a passage as an evidence that the art of making bone lace was already known in Cervantes' day. "Sanchica," writes Theresa Pança to her husband, the newly-appointed Governor of Baratava, "makes bone lace, and gets eight maravedis a day, which she drops into a tin box to help towards household stuff. But now that she is a governor's daughter, you will give her a fortune, and she will not have to work for it." In referring to the original Spanish we find the words rendered bone lace are "puntas de randas," signifying works of lacis or réseuil--"ouvrage de lacis ou réseuil."--Oudin. Trésor des Deux Langues Fr. et Esp. (1660).
[282] As early as the Great Wardrobe Account of Queen Elizabeth, 1587, P. R. O., we have a charge for bobbin lace of Spanish silk, "cum uñ tag," for the mantle, 10s. 8d.
In a letter from Prestwick Eaton to Geo. Willingham, 1631, the writer sends 1000 reals (£25), and in return desires him to send, together with a mastiff dog, some black satin lace for a Spanish suit.--State Papers, Domestic, Car. I., P. R. O.
[283] 1697. Marriage of Mademoiselle and the King of Spain. The Queen, says the Mercure, wore "une mante de point d'Espagne d'or, neuf aunes de long." 1698. Fête at Versailles on the marriage of the Duc de Bourgogne. "La Duchesse de Bourgogne pourtoit un petit tablier de point d'Espagne de mille pistoles."--Galérie de l'ancienne Cour; ou Mém. des Règnes de Louis XIV. et Louis XV., 1788.
1722. Ball at the Tuileries. "Tous les seigneurs etaient en habits de drap d'or ou d'argent garnis de points d'Espagne, avec des noeuds d'épaule, et tout l'ajustement à proportion. Les moindres etaient de velours, avec des points d'Espagne d'or et d'argent."--Journal de Barbier, 1718-62.
1722. "J'ai vu en même temps le carosse que le roi fait faire pour entrer dans Reims, il sera aussi d'une grande magnificence. Le dedans est tout garni d'un velours à ramage de points d'Espagne d'or."--Ibid.
1731. Speaking of her wedding-dress, Wilhelmina of Bayreuth, the witty sister of Frederick the Great, writes: "Ma robe étoit d'une étoffe d'or fort riche, avec un point d'Espagne d'or, et ma queue étoit de douze aunes de long."--Mémoires.
1751. Fête at Versailles on the birth of the Duc de Bourgogne. The coats of the "gens de cour, en étoffes d'or de grand prix ou en velours de tout couleurs, brodés d'or, ou garnis de point d'Espagne d'or."--Journal de Barbier.
[284] Fenix de Cataluña, compendio desus Antiguas Grandezas y Medio para Renovarlas, Barcelona, 1683, p. 75.
[285] In the reign of William and Mary, we find, in a lace-man's bill of the Queen, a charge for forty-seven yards of rich, broad, scalloped, embossed point de Spain; and her shoes are trimmed with gold and silver lace.--B. M., Add. MSS.; No. 5751.
At the entry of Lord Stair into Paris, 1719, his servants' hats are described as laced with Spanish point, their sleeves laced with picked silver lace, and dented at the edge with lace.--Edinburgh Courant.
In 1740, the Countess of Pomfret, speaking of the Princess Mary's wedding clothes, writes: "That for the wedding night is silver tissue, faced at the bottom before with pink-coloured satin, trimmed with silver point d'Espagne."--Letters of the Countess of Hartford to the Countess of Pomfret, 1740.
[286] Marquis de la Gombardière, 1634, Nouveau Réglement Général des Finances, etc.
[287] "Eighty children and grandchildren attended his funeral in defiance of the Edict of 19th Sept., 1664, and were heavily fined."--La France Protestante, par M. M. Haag. Paris, 1846-59.
[288] Garderobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre. Arch. Nat. K. K. 390-1.
[289] Lord Verulam on the treaty of commerce with the Emperor Maximilian.
[290] Gentleman's Magazine, 1745.
[291] Peyron, 1789.
[292] Madrid, 1775.
[293] Itinéraire de l'Espagne, Comte Alph. de Laborde, t. v.
[294] Peuchet (Dictionnaire Universel de la Géographie Commerçante, An. vii. = 1799), speaking of Barcelona, says their laces are "façon de France," but inferior in beauty and quality. The fabrication is considerable, employing 2,000 women in the towns and villages east of Barcelona. They are sold in Castile, Andalusia, and principally in the Indies.
[295] Madrid, 1788. Vol. ii, p. 149.
[296] Ibid. Vol. xvii., p. 294.
[297] "The manufacture of silk lace or blonde in Almagro occupies from 12,000 to 13,000 people" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869). Modern torchon laces are still made at Almagro to a very large extent (1901).
[298] Madrid, 1788.
[299] Madrid, 1797.
[300] Senor Juan F. Riano, The Industrial Arts in Spain, "Lace" (London, 1879).
[301] Theory of Commerce, from the Spanish of Don. Ger. de Ustariz (Lond., 1751).
[302] When the holidays of the Roman Catholic church are deducted, the work-days of the people amount only to 260 in the course of the year--fifty less than in a Protestant country.
[303] Ford, Handbook of Spain.
[304] 1869.
[305] "Now there are only two kinds of lace made in Spain; 'encaje de blonda,' mantillas, scarves, lace-ties, etc., in white and black; these are manufactured in Barcelona, on long pillows stuffed with long straw quite hard, covered with yellow or light blue linen. The lace is worked on a cardboard pattern, and with 'fuseaux' like the French torchon lace, the only difference being that the pillow is long and narrow and without the revolving cylinder in the centre, so that when making a long piece, or lace by the yard, the pins have to be taken out when you get to the bottom of the pillow, and the work removed to the top and continued. The mantillas, etc., are worked by pieces; that is to say, the border, flowers, and large designs, and are afterwards joined by the veil stitch.
"The second is 'encaje de Almagro'--little children of six and seven years old are taught to make it."--Letter from Spain, 1901.
[306] "On met de la dentelle brodée de couleur de points d'Espagne aux jupes"--Mercure Galant.
[307] Recherches sur le Commerce, la Fabrication et l'Usage des Etoffes de Soie, etc., pendant le Moyen Age. Paris, 1839.
[308] Taglienti, Venice, 1530.
[309] Paris, 1546.
[310] Pelegrin de Florence, Paris, 1530.
[311] Magazin de Londres, 1749.
[312] Mademoiselle Dumont, foundress of the point de France fabric, in the Rue St. Denis, quitted Paris after some years and retired to Portugal: whether she there introduced her art is more than the author can affirm.
[313] It was probably a variety of point de Venise. A few years ago a specimen of point plat was exhibited in London with a Portuguese inscription and designs of figures in costumes of circ. 1600.
See Plate IX.
[314] The bobbins from Peniche, one of the few places in Portugal where pillow-lace is still made, are remarkably pretty. They are of ivory, agreeably mellowed by time and constant handling, and their slender tapering shafts and bulbous ends are decorated simply but tastefully with soft-tinted staining. In size they are small, measuring from three and a quarter to three and a half inches long, and these proportions are extremely good. Another variety of Peniche bobbin is made of dark brown, boldly-grained wood. The lace-makers work on a long cylindrical cushion--the almofada--fastened to a high, basket-work stand, light enough to be easily moved from place to place.--R. E. Head, "Some Notes on Lace-Bobbins," The Reliquary, July, 1900.
[315] The Queen, August, 1872.
"The places in Portugal where the lace industry is chiefly exercised are Peniche, Vianna do Castello, Setubal, a village in Algarve called Faro, and at the present time Lisbon, where, under the help and patronage of H. M. the Queen, a lace dépot has been instituted, in which I have worked for ten years, seeking to raise the Portuguese lace industry to an art. The designs being entirely my own original ones, I am trying to give them a character in unison with the general idea of the architecture throughout the country. I obtained gold medals for my work at the Exhibitions of 1894 at Antwerp and 1900 at Paris, besides others at Lisbon."--Letter from Dona Maria Bordallo Pinheiro, head of the Lace Industry Department at Lisbon, 1901.
[316] "There are now seven families employed in the fabrication of Maltese lace, which is made almost entirely by men; the women occupy themselves in the open-work embroidery of muslin" (1869).
[317] Those in the collegiate church of St. Peter's, at Louvain, and in the church of St. Gomar, at Lierre (Antwerp Prov.).--Aubry.
[318] Baron Reiffenberg, in Mémoires de l'Académie de Bruxelles. 1820.
[319] Engraved by Collaert. Bib. Nat. Grav.
[320] Louvain dans le passé et dans le présent, formation de la ville, événements memorables, territoire, topographie, institutions, monuments, oeuvres d'art, page 330, by Edward van Even, published 1895.
[321] M. de Barante.
[322] It goes on: "For the maiden, seated at her work, plies her fingers rapidly, and flashes the smooth balls and thousand threads into the circle. Often she fastens with her hand the innumerable needles, to bring out the various figures of the pattern; often, again, she unfastens them; and in this her amusement makes as much profit as the man earns by the sweat of his brow; and no maiden ever complains at even of the length of the day. The issue is a fine web, open to the air with many an aperture, which feeds the pride of the whole globe; which encircles with its fine border cloaks and tuckers, and shows grandly round the throats and hands of kings; and, what is more surprising, this web is of the lightness of a feather, which in its price is too heavy for our purses. Go, ye men, inflamed with the desire of the Golden Fleece, endure so many dangers by land, so many at sea, whilst the woman, remaining in her Brabantine home, prepares Phrygian fleeces by peaceful assiduity."--Jacobi Eyckii Antwerpiensis Urbium Belgicarum Centuria. Antw. 1651. 1 vol., 4to. Bib. Royale, Brussels.
[323] Alençon excepted.
[324] It is said to destroy the eyesight. "I was told by a gentleman well acquainted with Flanders," says McPherson, "that they were generally almost blind before thirty years of age."--History of Commerce, 1785.
[325] Together with the cap is preserved a parchment with this inscription: "Gorro que perteneccio à Carlos Quinto, emperad. Guarda lo, hijo mio, es memoria de Juhan de Garnica." ("Cap which belonged to the Emperor Charles V. Keep it, my son, in remembrance of John de Garnica"). J. de Garnica was treasurer to Philip II.
Séguin, however, is of opinion that this cap belonged to one of Charles V.'s successors:--
"Ce bonnet ... a dû appartenir très certainement à un de ses successeurs (of Charles V.), à cause que ce bonnet se trouve coupé et encadré par un petit entre-deux de guipure au fuseau, façon point de Gênes, qui ne pouvait pas avoir été fait du temps de Charles Quint."--Séguin, La Dentelle.
[326] Married, 1599, Albert, Archduke of Austria.
[327] By Andrew Yarranton, Gent. London, 1677. A proposal to erect schools for teaching and improving the linen manufacture as they do "in Flanders and Holland, where little girls from six years old upwards learn to employ their fingers." Hadrianus Junius, a most learned writer, in his description of the Netherlands, highly extols the fine needlework and linen called cambric of the Belgian nuns, which in whiteness rivals the snow, in texture satin, and in price the sea-silk--Byssus, or beard of the Pinna.
[328] An old term, still used in Scotland, for gossip, chatter.
[329] These dogs were of large size, and able to carry from 22 to 26 lbs. They also conveyed tobacco. The Swiss dogs smuggle watches.
[330] Black lace was also imported at this period from the Low Countries. Among the articles advertised as lost, in the Newsman of May 26th, 1664, is, "A black lute-string gown with a black Flanders lace."
[331] Mercure Galant. 1678.
[332] "Le corsage et les manches étaient bordés d'une blanche et légère dentelle, sortie à coup sûr des meilleures manufactures d'Angleterre."
[333] We have, however, one entry in the Wardrobe Accounts of the Duc de Penthièvre: "1738. Onze aunes d'Angleterre de Flandre."
[334] Mercure Galant. 1678.
[335] "Deux paires de manchettes et une cravatte de point d'Angleterre."--Inventaire d'Anne d'Escoubleau, Baronne de Sourdis, veuve de François de Simiane. Arch. Nat. M. M. 802.
[336] _Inv. après le decès de Mgr. Mich. Philippine de la Vrillière, Patriarche, Archevêque de Bourges_, 1694. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426.
"Une toilette et sa touaille avec un peignoir de point d'Angleterre."--Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle de Charollais. 1758. Arch. Nat.
[337] Mrs. Calderwood's Journey through Holland and Belgium, 1756. Printed by the Maitland Club.
[338] Flax is also cultivated solely for lace and cambric thread at St. Nicholas, Tournay, and Courtrai. The process of steeping (rouissage) principally takes place at Courtrai, the clearness of the waters of the Lys rendering them peculiarly fitted for the purpose. Savary states that fine thread was first spun at Mechlin.
[339] It is often sold at £240 per lb., and in the Report of the French Exhibition of 1859 it is mentioned as high as £500 (25,000fr. the kilogramme). No wonder that so much thread is made by machinery, and that Scotch cotton thread is so generally used, except for the choicest laces. But machine-made thread has never attained the fineness of that made by hand. Of those in the Exhibition of 1862, the finest Lille was 800 leas (a technical term for a reel of 300 yards), the Brussels 600, the Manchester 700; whereas in Westphalia and Belgium hand-spun threads as fine as 800 to 1000 are spun for costly laces. The writer has seen specimens, in the Museum at Lille, equal to 1200 of machinery; but this industry is so poorly remunerated, that the number of skilful hand-spinners is fast diminishing.
[340] Dictionnaire du Citoyen. 1761.
[341] Comptes de Madame du Barry. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8157 and 8.
[342] "Trois aubes de batiste garnies de grande dentelle de gros point d'Angleterre."--Inv. des Meubles, etc., de Louis, Duc d'Orléans, decedé 4 fev. 1752. (Son of the Regent.) Arch. Nat. X. 10,075.
"Deux aubes de point d'Angleterre servant à Messieurs les curez.
"Une autre aube à dentelle de gros point servant aussy à M. le curé."--Inventaire et Description de l'Argenterie, Vermeil Doré, Ornemens, Linge, etc., appartenant à l'Oeuvre et Fabrique de l'église Saint-Merry à Paris. 1714. Arch. Nat. L.L. 859.
[343] "Une coëffure à une pièce d'Angleterre bride et réseau."--Comptes de Madame du Barry.
"1 aune et quart d'Angleterre mêlé."--Ibid.
[344] Mrs. Delany writes ("Corr.," vol. 2): The laces "I have pitched on for you are charming; it is grounded Brussels."
"Deux tours de gorge à raiseau, un tour de camisolle à bride."--1720. Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon. Arch. Nat. X. 10,062-4.
"Six peignoirs de toille fine garnis par en haut d'une vielle dentelle d'Angleterre à raiseau."--Inv. de decès de Monsieur Philippe petit fils de France, Duc d'Orléans, Regent du Royaume, decedé 2 décembre, 1723. Arch. Nat. X. 10,067.
The "fond écaillé" often occurs.
"Une coëffure à une pièce de point à l'écaille;
"Une paire de manchettes de cour de point à raizeau, et deux devants de corps de point à brides à écailles."--1761. Inv. de la Duchesse de Modène. Arch. Nat. X. 10,082.
"Deux barbes, rayon, et fond d'Angleterre superfin fond écaillé."--Comptes de Madame du Barry. See her Angleterre, Chap. XI. note 26.
[345] To which machinery has added a third, the tulle or Brussels net.
[346] The needleground is three times as expensive as the pillow, because the needle is passed four times into each mesh, whereas in the pillow it is not passed at all.
[347] "Trois oreillers, l'un de toille blanche picquée garnis autour de chacun d'un point plat."--Inv. de la Duchesse de Modène.
[348] Tableau de Paris, par S. Mercier. Amsterdam, 1782.
[349] "Fashion." J. Warton.
[350] Brussels lace-makers divide the plat into three parts, the "mat," the close part answering to the French toilé (Chapter III.); gaze au fuseau, in which small interstices appear, French grillé, and the jours, or open work.
[351] The veil presented by the city of Brussels to the Empress Josephine was sold in 1816 by Eugene Beauharnais to Lady Jane Hamilton. It is described to have been of such ample dimensions that, when placed on Lady Jane's head--who was upwards of six feet high--it trained on the ground. The texture of the réseau was exquisitely fine. In each corner was the imperial crown and cypher, encircled with wreaths of flowers. This chef d'oeuvre passed into the possession of Lady Jane's daughter, the Duchesse de Coigny.
[352] To afford an idea of the intrinsic value of Brussels lace, we give an estimate of the expense of a fine flounce (volant), of vrai réseau mélangé (point and plat), 12 metres long by 35 centimetres wide (13¼ yards by 14 inches)--
Fr. Cost of the plat 1,885.75 Needle-point 5,000 Open-work, jours (fonnage) 390 Appliqué (stricage) 800 Ground (réseau) 2,782 Footing (engrêlure) 1.27 --------- Total 10,859.02 --------- = £434 7 6
Equals £36 3s. 9d. the metre, and the selling price would be about £50 16s., which would make the flounces amount to £609 12s.
[353] "Une paire de manchettes de dentelle de Malines brodée."
"Quatre bonnets de nuit garnis de Malines brodée."--Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle de Charollais. 1758.
[354] Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon. 1720.
"1704. Deux fichus garnis de dentelle de Malines à bride ou rézeau.
"Une cravatte avec les manchettes de point de Malines à bride.
"Deux autres cravattes de dentelle de Malines à rézeau et trois paires de manchettes de pareille dentelle."--Inv. de Franç. Phelypeaux Loisel. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,459.
[355] Inv. de decès de Madame Anne, Palatine de Bavière, Princesse de Condé. 1723. Arch. de Nat. X. 10,065.
[356] In the accounts of Madame du Barry, we have "Malines bâtarde à bordure."
[357] Inv. après le decès de Mgr. le Maréchal de la Motte. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426. "Quatre paires de manchettes garnyes de passement tant de Venise, Gennes, et de Malines."
[358] Voyage en Flandre. 1681.
[359] B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
[360] Gr. Ward. Acc. P. R. O.
[361] Ibid.
[362] "On chamarre les jupes en quiles de dentelles plissées."--Mercure Galant. 1678.
"Un volant dentelle d'Angleterre plissée."--Extraordinaire du Mercure. Quartier d'Esté. 1678.
[363] "1741. Une coiffure de nuit de Malines à raizeau campanée de deux pièces.
"Une paire de manches de Malines brodée a raizeau campanée, un tour de gorge, et une garniture de corset."--Inv. de Mademoiselle de Clermont.
"1761. Une paire de manches de Malines bridés non campanée, tour de gorge, et garniture de corset."--Inv. de la Duchesse de Modène.
[364] "1720. Une garniture de teste à trois pièces de dentelle de Malines à bride.
"Deux peignoirs de toile d'Hollande garnis de dentelle, l'une d'Angleterre à bride et l'autre de Maline à raiseau."--Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon. "1750. Une dormeuse de Malines."--Inv. de Mademoiselle de Charollais.
"1770. 5½ grande hauteur de Malines pour une paire de manchettes, 264 francs.
"1 au. jabot pour le tour de gorge, 16.
"5 au. ¼ Malines pour garnir 3 chemises au nègre à 12 fr." (The wretch Zamor who denounced her.)--Comptes de Madame du Barry.
"1788. 6 tayes d'oreiller garnies de Malines."--Etat de ce qui a été fourni pour le renouvellement de Mgr. le Dauphin. Arch. Nat. K. 505, No. 20.
"1792. 2 tayes d'oreillier garnis de maline."--Notes du linge du çi-devant Roi. Ibid. No. 8.
"1792. 24 fichus de batiste garnis de Maline.
"2 taye d'orilier garnis de Maline."--Renouvellement de M. le Duc. de Normandie. Ibid.
[365] An Arrêt, dated 14 Aug., 1688, requires that "toutes les dentelles de fil d'Anvers, Bruxelles, Malines et autres lieux de la Flandre Espagnolle," shall enter only by Rousselars and Condé, and pay a duty of 40 livres per lb.--Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau.
[366] In the list of foreign Protestants resident in England, 1618 to 1688, we find in London, Aldersgate Ward, Jacob Johnson, born at Antwerp, lace-maker, and Antony du Veal, lace-weaver, born in Turny (Tournay).
[367] This portrait has been engraved by Verbruggen, who gives it as that of Catherine of Aragon.
[368] Mercure Galant, 1696.
[369] The flower-pot was a symbol of the Annunciation. In the early representations of the appearance of the Angel Gabriel to the Virgin Mary, lilies are placed either in his hand, or set as an accessory in a vase. As Romanism declined, the angel disappeared, and the lily pot became a vase of flowers; subsequently the Virgin was omitted, and there remained only the vase of flowers.
[370] See APPENDIX.
[371] Tableau Statistique du Dép. des Deux-Nèthes, par le Citoyen Herbouville. An X. = 1802.
[372] Their names are given: Veuves Mesele, Papegay, and Turck.
[373] Ypres Valenciennes was exhibited at £80 (the metre). The lace-maker, working twelve hours a day, could scarcely produce one-third of an inch a week. It would take her twelve years to complete a length of six or seven metres, her daily earnings averaging two to three francs. Ypres makes the widest Valenciennes of any manufacture except Courtrai, whence was exhibited a half shawl (pointe) of Valenciennes.
[374] M. Duhayon Brunfaut, of Ypres.
[375] Treille is the general term for the ground (réseau) throughout Belgium and the Dép. du Nord.
[376] France alone buys of Belgium more Valenciennes than all the other countries united; upwards of 12 millions of francs (£480,000).--Aubry.
[377] At Ghent two turns and a half, and at Courtrai three and a half. Each town has its own peculiar stitch.
[378] L'Industrie Dentellière Belge, par B. v. d. Dussen, Bruxelles, 1860.
[379] Robinson Crusoe, when at Lisbon, sends "some Flanders lace of a good value" as a present to the wife and daughter of his partner in the Brazils.
[380] Answer to Sir John Sinclair, by Mr. H. Schoulthem, concerning the manufactures of Ghent. 1815.
[381] Arch. de Nat., Coll. Rondonneau.
[382] Point and Pillow Lace, A. M. S. London, 1899.
[383] "Une paire de manchettes de cour de dentelle de Binche;
"Trois paires de manchettes à trois rangs de dentelle de Binche;
"Deux fichus de mousseline bordées de dentelle de Binche;
"Deux devants de corps de dentelle de Binche."--Arch. de Nat. X., 10,082.
[384] "M. Victor Hugo told the Author he had, in his younger days, seen Binch guipure of great beauty."--Mrs. Palliser, 1869.
[385] Letter of Sir Henry Wotton to Lord Zouch.--State Papers, Domestic, Jas. I., P. R. O.
[386] In the Bulletin de l'Institut Archéologique, Liègois XVIII., 1885, is a copy of a contract dated January 23rd, 1634, whereby a lace-maker of Liège, Barbe Bonneville, undertakes for 25 florins, current money, to teach a young girl lace-making.
Again, in the copy of a Namur Act of November, 1701, a merchant of Namur orders from a Liègois "3 pieces of needle-made lace called Venice point," to sell at the rate of 5½ florins, 4½ florins, and one écu respectively.
[387] Arch. de Nat., Coll. Rondonneau.
[388] "Caïeteresses," from caïets, bobbins.
[389] Exposition de Liège, par Chanoine Dubois, 1881.
[390] Statistique du dép. de la Meuse-Inf., par le Citoyen Cavenne. An. X.
[391] Liège in the seventeenth century numbered 1600 workers, and produced black and white laces which it exported to England, Germany and France. The rich clergy of the country also bought a large quantity. At the time of the Exhibition held there in 1881 the fabric had so declined that it was impossible to find a single piece of lace that had been made in the town.
[392] Fil tiré, drawn and embroidered muslin-work so fine as to be classed with lace, was made in Dinant in the religious communities of the city and the "pays" of Dinant before the French Revolution. At Marche lace with flowers worked directly on the réseau is made, and the lace of Yorck is also imitated--a lace characterised by additions worked on to the lace, giving relief to the flowers.--Exposition de Liège, par Chanoine Dubois, 1881. The list of Belgian laces also includes "Les points de Brabant, plus mats, et plus remplis que les points de Flandres; les differentes dentelles de fantaisie, non classées, puis les grosses dentelles de Couvin, en soie noire, qui servaient jadis à garnir les pelisses des femmes de l'Entre Sambre-et-Meuse."--La Dentelle de Belgique, par Mme. Daimeries, 1893.
[393] Italian fashions appeared early in France. Isabeau de Bavière, wearer of the oriental hennin, and Valentine de Milan, first introduced the rich tissues of Italy. Louis XI. sent for workmen from Milan, Venice, and Pistoja, to whom he granted various privileges, which Charles VIII. confirmed.
Lace, according to Séguin, first appears in a portrait of Henri II. at Versailles, a portrait painted in the latter years of his reign.
"Les deux portraits de Francois I^{er} qui sont au Louvre n'en laissent pas soupçonner l'usage de son temps. Aucun des autres portraits historiques qui y sont, non plus que ceux des galeries de Versailles de la même époque, n'en attestent l'existence, et le premier où on la découvre est un portrait de Henri II à Versailles, qui a dû être peint vers les dernières années de son règne. Le col, brodé d'entrelacs de couleur, est bordé d'une petite dentelle bien simple et bien modeste. Nous possédons des portraits authentiques antérieurs au milieu du XVI^e siècle, des specimens incontestés des costumes qui ont précédé cette époque, aucun de ces nombreux témoins n'atteste son existence.
"Il faut reconnaître que l'origine de la dentelle n'est pas antérieure au milieu du XVI^e siècle."--Séguin, La Dentelle. Paris, 1875.
[394] In Ulpian Fulwell's Interlude, 1568, Nichol Newfangle says--
"I learn to make gowns with long sleeves and wings, I learn to make ruffs like calves' chitterlings."
[395] The Queen was accused by her enemies of having, by the aid of Maître René, "empoisonneur en titre," terminated the life of Queen Jeanne de Navarre, in 1571, by a perfumed ruff (not gloves--Description de la Vie de Catherine de Médicis); and her favourite son, the Duke d'Alençon, was said, cir. 1575, to have tried to suborn a valet to take away the life of his brother Henry by scratching him in the back of his neck with a poisoned pin when fastening his fraise.
[396] Satyre Menippée. Paris, 1593.
[397] Chronologie Novenaire, Vict. P. Cayet.
[398] "S'ils se tournoient, chacun se reculoit, crainte de gater leurs fraizes."--Satyre Menippée.
"Le col ne se tourne à leur aise Dans le long reply de leur fraise." --Vertus et Propriétés des Mignons, 1576.
[399] "Ces beaux mignons portoient ... leur fraizes de chemise de toute d'atour empesez et longues d'un demi-pied, de façon qu'à voir leurs testes dessus leurs fraizes, il sembloit que ce fut le chef de Saint Jean dans un plat."--Journal de Henri III., Pierre de l'Estoille.
[400] Perroniana. Cologne, 1691.
[401] "Goudronnées en tuyaux d'orgue, fraisées en choux crépus, et grandes comme des meules de moulin."--Blaise de Viginière.
"La fraize veaudelisée à six étages."--La Mode qui Court. Paris, n.d.
[402] "Appelez par les Espagnols 'lechuguillas' ou petites laitues, à cause du rapport de ces gaudrons repliées avec les fraisures de la laitue."--Histoire de la Ville de Paris, D. Mich. Félibien.
[403] "1575. Le roy alloit tous les jours faire ses aumônes et ses prières en grande devotion, laissant ses chemises à grands goderons, dont il estoit auparavant si curieux, pour en prendre à collet renversé a l'Italienne."--Journal de Henri III., Pierre de l'Estoille.
[404] No less than ten were sent forth by the Valois kings, from 1549 to 1583.
[405] These were dated 1594, 1600, 1601, and 1606.
[406] Copper used instead of gold thread for embroidery or lace. The term was equally applied to false silver thread.
"1582. Dix escus pour dix aulnes de gaze blanche rayée d'argent clinquant pour faire ung voille à la Boullonnoise."--Comptes de la Reine de Navarre. Arch. Nat. K. K. 170.
[407] Regnier, Math., Ses Satyres. 1642.
[408] The observation was not new. A Remonstrance to Catherine de Médicis, 1586, complains that "leurs moulins, leurs terres, leurs prez, leurs bois et leurs revenuz, se coulent en broderies, pourfilures, passemens, franges, tortis, canetilles, recameurs, chenettes, picqueurs, arrièrepoins, etc., qu'on invente de jour à autre."--Discours sur l'extrême cherté, etc., presenté à la Mère du Roi, par un sien fidelle Serviteur (Du Haillan). Bordeaux, 1586.
[409] "1579. Pour avoir remonsté trois fraises à poinct couppé, 15 sols.
"Pour avoir monté cinq fraizes à poinct couppé sur linomple, les avoir ourllés et couzeus à la petite cordellière et au poinct noué à raison de 30 sols pour chacune.
"Pour la façon de sept rabatz ourllés à double arrièrepoinct et couzu le passement au dessus.
"1580. Pour avoir faict d'ung mouchoir ouvré deux rabatz, 20 sols.
"Pour deux pieces de poinct couppé pour servir à ladicte dame, VI livres.
"Pour dix huict aulnes de passement blanc pour mestre à des fraizes à trois escus l'aulne."
1582. The account for this year contains entries for "passement faict à lesguille," "grand passement," "passement faict au mestier," etc.--Comptes de la Reine de Navarre. Arch. Nat.
[410] "Vingt trois chemizes de toile fine à ouvrage de fil d'or et soye de plusieurs coulleurs, aux manchettes coulet et coutures.
"Ung chemize à ouvrage de soye noire.
"Quatre chemizes les trois à ouvrage d'or et d'argent et soye bleu."--Inv. des meubles qui ont estés portés à Paris. 1602. Arch. Nat.
[411] "1577. A Jehan Dupré, linger, demeurant à Paris, la somme de soixante douze livres tournois à luy or donnée pour son payement de quatre layz d'ouvraige à poinct couppé pour faire une garniture de chemise pour servir à mon dict segneur, à raison de 18 liv. chacune."--Comptes de la Reine de Navarre. Arch. Nat. K. K. 162, fol. 655.
[412] "This shirt," he adds, "is well attested. It became the perquisite of the king's first valet de chambre. At the extinction of his descendants, it was exposed to sale."--Memoirs.
A rival shirt turned up (c. 1860) at Madame Tussaud's with "the real blood" still visible. Monsieur Curtius, uncle of Madame Tussaud, purchased it at an auction of effects once the property of Cardinal Mazarin. Charles X. offered 200 guineas for it.
[413] "Item, cinq mouchoirs d'ouvrages d'or, d'argent et soye, prisez ensemble cent escuz.
"Item, deux tauayelles aussi ouvrage d'or, d'argent et soye, prisées cent escuz.
"Item, trois tauayelles blanches de rezeuil, prisées ensemble trente escuz.
"Item, une paire de manches de point coupé et enrichies d'argent, prisez vingt escuz.
"Item, deux mouchoirs blancz de point coupé, prisez ensemble vingt escuz.
"Toutes lesquelles tauayelles et mouchoirs cy dessus trouvez dans un coffre de bahu que la dicte defunte dame faisoit ordinairement porter avec elle a la court sont demeurez entre les mains du S^r de Beringhen, suivant le commandement qu'il en avoit de sa majesté pour les representer à icelle, ce qu'il a promis de faire."--Inventaire apres le decès de Gabrielle d'Estrées. 1599. Arch. Nat. K. K. 157, fol. 17.
[414] "Item, un lit d'yvoire à filletz noirs de Padoue, garny de son estuy de cuir rouge."--Ibid.
[415] "Item, une autre tenture de cabinet de carré de rezeau brodurée et montans recouvert de feuillages de fil avec des carrez de thoile plaine, prisé et estimé la somme de cent escus Soleil.
"Item, dix sept carrez de thoile de Hollande en broderie d'or et d'argent fait a deux endroictz, prisez et estimez à 85 escus.
"Item, un autre pavilion tout de rezeil avec le chapiteau de fleurs et feuillages....
"Item, un autre en neuf fait par carrez de point coupé."--Ibid. fols. 46 and 47.
[416] "Manchettes et collets enrichys de point couppé."--Inventaire apres le decès de Messire Philippe Herault, Comte de Cheverny, Chancelier de France. 1599. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. 11,424.
[417] In 1598. Vulson de la Colombière, Vray Théatre d'Honneur et de Chevalerie. 1647.
[418] Satyrique de la Court. 1613.
[419] Histoire de la Mère et du Fils, from 1616 to 19. Amsterdam, 1729.
[420] Livre nouveau dict Patrons de Lingerie, etc.
Patrons de diverses Manières, etc. (Title in rhyme.)
S'ensuyvent les Patrons de Mesire Antoine Belin.
Ce Livre est plaisant et utile. (Title in rhyme.)
[421] La Fleur des Patrons de Lingerie.
[422] Tresor des Patrons. J. Ostans.
[423] Le Livre de Moresques (1546), Livre de Lingerie, Dom. de Sera (1584), and Patrons pour Brodeurs (no date), were also printed at Paris.
The last book on this kind of work printed at Paris is styled, Méthode pour faire des Desseins avec des Carreaux, etc., by Père Dominique Donat, religieux carme. 1722.
[424] A point de Venise alb, of rose point, said to be of this period, is in the Musée de Cluny.
[425] "Quelques autres de frangez Bordent leur riche cuir, qui vient des lieux estranges."--Le Gan, de Jean Godard, Parisien. 1588.
[426] "1619. Deux paires de rozes à soulliers garnies de dentelle d'or."--Inv. de Madame Soeur du Roi. (Henrietta Maria.) Arch. Nat.
[427] Satyrique de la Court.
[428] The inventory of the unfortunate Maréchal de Marillac, beheaded 1632, has "broderye et poinctz d'Espagnes d'or, argent et soye; rabats et collets de point couppé; taffetas nacarat garnye de dantelle d'argent; pour-poinct passementé de dantelle de canetille de Flandre," etc.--Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,426.
[429] 1620, Feb. 8th. "Déclaration portant deffenses de porter des clinquants, passements, broderies," etc.--Arch. Nat. G. G. G.
1623, March 20th. "Déclaration qui defend l'usage des étoffes d'or," etc.--Recueil des anciennes Lois Françaises. T. 16, 107.
1625, Sept. 30th. Déclaration prohibits the wearing of "collets, fraizes, manchettes, et autres linges des passements, Point coupez et Dentelles, comme aussi des Broderies et Decoupures sur quentin ou autre toile."--Bib. Nat. L. i. 8.
[430] Consolation des Dames sur la Reformation des passemens. 1620.
[431] Again, 1633, Nov. 18th. Déclaration restricts the prohibition; permits "passements manufacturés dans le royaume qui n'excederont 9 ll. l'aune."--Arch. Nat. G. G. G.
1634, May 30th. "Lettres patentes pour la reformation du luxe des habits," prohibits "dentelles, passements et broderies" on boots, carriages, etc. (British Museum).
1636, April 3rd. "Déclaration contre le Luxe." Again prohibits both foreign and home-made points coupés, etc., under pain of banishment for five years, confiscation, and a fine of 6000 francs.--De la Mare, Traité de la Police.
1639, Nov. 24th. Fresh prohibition, points de Gênes specially mentioned. Not to wear on the collar, cuffs, or boots, "autres choses que de la toile simple sans aucune façon."--Arch. Nat. G. G. G.
[432] Le Courtisan Reformé, suivant l'Edit. de l'année 1633; and again, Le Jardin de la Noblesse Françoise dans lequel ce peut cueillir leur manière de Vettement. 1629.
[433] April, 1636.
[434] 1631. Trésorerie de la Reine Marie de Médicis.--Arch. Nat. K. K. 191.
[435] Vulson de la Colombière, Pompes qu'on pratique aux obséques des Rois de France.
[436] Mémoires de Guy Joly, from 1648 to 1665.
[437] About this period a special Act had confirmed the Statutes of the Maîtres Passementiers of Paris. By Article 21, they are privileged to make every sort of passement or lace, "sur l'oreiller, aux fuzeaux, aux épingles, et à la main," on condition the material, gold, silver, thread, or silk, be "de toutes fines ou de toutes fausses." The sale of thread and lace was allowed to the Lingères, but by an Arrêt of the Parliament of Paris, 1665, no one could be a marchande lingère unless she had made profession of the "religion catholique, apostolique, et romaine," a condition worthy of the times. "Il n'y fut," writes Gilles de Felice, in his Histoire des Protestants de France, "pas jusqu'à la corporation des lingères qui ne s'en allât remontrer au conseil que leur communauté, ayant été instituée par saint Louis, no pouvait admettre d'hérétiques, et cette réclamation fut gravement confirmée par un arrêt du 21 août, 1665."
[438] Dated November 19th, 1653. The letter is given in full by the Marquis de Laborde in Le Palais Mazarin. Paris, 1845.
[439] Inv. fait apres la mort du Cardinal Mazarin, 1661.--Bibl. Nat. MSS. Suite de Mortmart, 37.
[440] It is to be found at the Archives National, or in the Library of the Cour de Cassation. In the Archives National is a small collection of ordinances relative to lace collected by M. Rondonneau, extending from 1666 to 1773. It is very difficult to get at all the ordinances. Many are printed in De la Mare (Traité de la Police); but the most complete work is the Recueil général des anciennes Lois françaises, depuis l'an 420 jusqu'à la Révolution de 1789, par MM. Isambert, Ducrusy, et Taillandier. Paris, 1829. The ordinances bear two dates, that of their issue and of their registry.
[441] This "canon," originally called "bas de bottes," was a circle of linen or other stuff fastened below the knee, widening at the bottom so as to fill the enlargement of the boot, and when trimmed with lace, having the appearance of a ruffle.
[442] Dictionnaire des Précieuses. 1660. Molière likewise ridicules them:--
"Et de ces grands canons, où, comme des entraves, On met tous les matins les deux jambes esclaves." --L'École des Maris.
And again, in L'École des Femmes:
"Ils ont de grands canons, force rubans et plumes."
[443] Les Délices de la France, par M. Savinière d'Alquié. 1670.
[444] The fashion of wearing black lace was introduced into England in the reign of Charles II. "Anon the house grew full, and the candles lit, and it was a glorious sight to see our Mistress Stewart in black and white lace, and her head and shoulders dressed with diamonds."--Pepys's Diary.
"The French have increased among us many considerable trades, such as black and white lace."--England's Great Happiness, etc. Dialogue between Content and Complaint. 1677.
"Item, un autre habit de grosse moire garny de dantelle d'Angleterre noire."--1691. Inv. de Madame de Simiane. Arch. Nat., M. M. 802.
[445] "Of this custom, a relic may still be found at the Court of Turin, where ladies wear lappets of black lace. Not many years since, the wife of a Russian minister, persisting to appear in a suit of Brussels point, was courteously requested by the Grand Chamberlain to retire" (1869).
[446] Chroniques de l'Oeil-de-Boeuf.
[447] Madame de Motteville is not complimentary to the ladies of the Spanish Court: "Elles avoient peu de linge," she writes, "et leurs dentelles nous parurent laides."--Mémoires pour servir à l'histoire d'Anne d'Autriche.
[448] Madame de Sévigné mentions these dresses: "Avez-vous ouï parler des transparens?... de robes noires transparentes ou des belles dentelles d'Angleterre."--Lettres.
[449] 1690. Chroniques de l'Oeil-de-Boeuf.
[450] 1661, May 27; 1662, Jan. 1; 1664, May 31, Sept. 18, and Dec. 12.
[451] "On fabriquait précédemment ces espèces de dentelles guipures, dont on ornait les aubes des prêtres, les rochets des évêques et les jupons des femmes de qualité."--Roland de la Platière. The articles on lace by Roland and Savary have been copied by all succeeding writers on the subject.
[452] Mgr. de Bonzy, Dec. 20, 1664. Correspondance administrative sous Colbert, vol. 3.
[453] Lefébure.
[454] "Il y a très longtemps que le point coupé se faict icy, qui a son débit selon le temps; mais qu'une femme nommée La Perrière (sic), fort habile à ces ouvrages, trouva il y a quelques années le moyen d'imiter les points de Venise, en sorte qu'elle y vint à telle perfection que ceux qu'elle faisoit ne devaient rien aux estrangers. Pour faire ces ouvrages il luy falloit enseigner plusieurs petites filles auxquelles elle montroit à faire ce point ... à présent je vous puis asseurer qu'il y a plus de 8,000 personnes qui y travaillent dans Alençon, dans Seèz, dans Argentan, Falaise....
"Monseigneur, c'est une manne, et une vraie bénédiction du ciel qui s'est espandue sur tout ce pays, dans lequel les petitz enfants mesmes de sept ans trouvent moyen de gaigner leur vie. Les vieillards y travaillent et les petites bergerettes des champs y travaillent mêmes."--Letter from Favier-Duboulay, intendant d'Alençon since 1644. Correspondance administrative sous le règne de Louis XIV (quoted by Madame Despierres), vol. 3.
[455] In 1842 M. Joseph Odolant Desnos, grandson of this author, writes, "Ce fut une dame Gilberte, qui avait fait son apprentissage à Venise, et était native d'Alençon. Dès qu'elle fut à ses ordres, ce ministre (Colbert) la logea dans le magnifique château de Lonrai, qu'il possédait près d'Alençon."--Annuaire de l'Orne.
[456] Mémoires historiques sur la ville d'Alençon, M. Odolant Desnos. Alençon, 1787.
[457] "Le château de Lonrai ne passa dans la maison de Colbert que par le mariage de Catherine Thérèse de Matignon, Marquise de Lonrai, avec Jean-Baptiste Colbert, fils ainé du grand Colbert, le 6e septembre 1678" (i.e., fourteen years after the establishment of points de France at Alençon) --Madame Despierres, Histoire de point d'Alençon.
[458] Madame Despierres, after an exhaustive study of the mass of documentary evidence on this point, gives as her opinion that--
"(1) La première personne qui à Alençon imita le point de Venise, et par conséquent créa le point d'Alençon, fut Mme La Perrière, vers 1650, et non Mme Gilbert.
"(2) La préposée-directrice des manufactures de point de France des différentes villes du royaume qui a établi les bureaux à Alençon, fut Catherine de Marcq, et non pas une dame Gilbert.
"(3) Les préposées mises à la tête de l'établissement d'Alençon étaient Mme Raffy et Marie Fillesae, dont les noms ne répondent pas à celui d'une dame Gilbert."--Madame Despierres, Histoire de point d'Alençon.
[459] Mrs. Palliser sought in vain for this ordinance in the Library of the Cour de Cassation, where it is stated to be, by the authors of the "Recueil général des anciennes Lois françaises, depuis l'an 420 jusqu'à la Révolution de 1789"; but fortunately it is recited in a subsequent act, dated Oct. 12, 1666 (Arch. Nat., Coll. Rondonneau), by which it appears that the declaration ordered the establishment in "les villes de Quesnoy, Arras, Reims, Sedan, Château-Thierry, Loudun, Alençon, Aurillac, et autres du royaume, de la manufacture de toutes sortes d'ouvrages de fil, tant à l'éguille qu'au coussin, en la manière des points qui se font à Venise, Gennes, Raguse, et autres pays estrangers, qui seroient appellés points de France," by which it would appear the term point de France did not exclusively belong to the productions of Alençon. After the company was dissolved in 1675 the name of point de France was applied to point d'Alençon alone. In a subsequent arrêt it is set forth that the entrepreneurs have caused to be brought in great numbers the best workers from Venice and other foreign cities, and have distributed them over Le Quesnoy and the above-mentioned towns, and that now are made in France "des ouvrages de fil si exquis, qu'ils esgallent, mesme surpassent en beauté les estrangers."--Bibl. de la Cour de Cassation.
What became of these manufactures at Le Quesnoy and Château-Thierry, of which not a tradition remains?
[460] Talon, "secrétaire du cabinet," was one of the first members. We find by an arrêt, Feb. 15, 1667, that this patent had already been infringed. On the petition of Jean Pluymers, Paul, and Catherine de Marcq, "entrepreneurs" of the fabric of points de France, his Majesty confirms to them the sole privilege of making and selling the said points.--Arch. Nat., Coll. Rondonneau. Nov. 17 of the same year appears a fresh prohibition of wearing or selling the passements, lace, and other works in thread of Venice, Genoa, and other foreign countries (British Museum), and March 17, 1668, "Itératives" prohibitions to wear these, either new or "commencé d'user," as injurious to a manufacture of point which gives subsistence to a number of persons in the kingdom.--Ibid. Again, Aug. 19, 1669, a fresh arrêt in consequence of complaints that the workers are suborned and work concealed in Paris, etc.--Arch Nat., Coll. Rondonneau.
[461] Colbert said to Louis XIV.: "There will always be found fools enough to purchase the manufactures of France, though France should be prohibited from purchasing those of other countries." The King agreed with the minister, whom he made chief director of the trade and manufactures of the kingdom.
[462] A favourite saying of Colbert.
[463] The artists who furnished designs for all works undertaken for the court of Louis XIV. must have supplied designs for the lace manufactures: "In the accounts of the King's buildings is the entry of a payment due to Bailly, the painter, for several days' work with other painters in making designs for embroideries and points d'Espagne" (Lefébure).
[464] The principal centres of lace-making were Aurillac, Sedan, Rheims, Le Quesnoy, Alençon, Arras, and Loudun, and the name "Points de France" was given without distinction to all laces made at these towns; preference was given in choosing these centres to those towns already engaged in lace-making. Alençon produced the most brilliant results, for from the beginning of the seventeenth century the town had been engaged in needle-point lace, and some of the lace-makers earned high wages, and showed great aptitude for the art. In her Histoire du Point d'Alençon, Madame Despierres has made some interesting extracts from various marriage contracts and wills:--
"A notable instance is that of a family named Barbot, the mother having amassed 500 livres. Her daughter, Marthe Barbot, married Michel Mercier, sieur de la Perrière, and brought him a wedding-portion of 300 livres, the earnings of her industry; while her sister Suzanne Barbot's wedding-portion, upon her marriage with Paul Ternouillet, amounted to 6,000 livres, earned in making cut-works and works en velin (needle-point lace done on a parchment pattern), which command a high price" (Lefébure).
[465] The Venetian Senate, according to Charles Yriarte, regarded this emigration of workers to France as a crime against the State, and issued the following decree:--
"If any artist or handicraftsman practises his art in any foreign land to the detriment of the Republic, orders to return will be sent him; if he disobeys them, his nearest of kin will be put into prison, in order that through his interest in their welfare his obedience may be compelled. If he comes back, his past offence will be condoned, and employment for him will be found in Venice; but if, notwithstanding the imprisonment of his nearest of kin, he obstinately decides to continue living abroad, an emissary will be commissioned to kill him, and his next of kin will only be liberated upon his death."
[466] To afford an idea of the importance of the lace trade in France at the beginning of the eighteenth century, and of the immense consumption of lace in France, we give the following statistics:--In 1707, the collection of the duties of lace was under-farmed to one Étienne Nicolas, for the annual sum of 201,000 livres. The duty then was of 50 livres per lb. weight of lace, so that there entered annually into France above 400,000 lbs. of lace, which, estimating at the lowest 1,000 lbs. of lace to be worth 1,000 livres, would represent 4 millions of that epoch. Taking into calculation that fraud was extensively practised, that the points of Venice and Genoa, being prohibited, could not appear in the receipts; and that, on the other part, the under-farmer did not pay the farmer-general the 201,000 livres without the certainty of profit to himself, we must admit that the figure, though high, is far from representing the value of the foreign laces which entered France at that period. We think that 8 millions (£320,000) would be below the true figure.--Rapport sur les Dentelles fait à la Commission française de l'Exposition Universelle de Londres, 1851. Felix Aubry. The best history of lace published.
[467] "Deux tours de chaire de point de France donnez depuis quelques années par deux dames de la paroisse."--Inv. de l'église de Saint-Merry, à Paris. Arch. Nat. L. L. 859.
[468] Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine de Bavière, Princesse de Condé.--Ibid. X. 10,065.
[469] Inv. de l'église de Saint-Gervais, à Paris.--Ibid. L. L. 854.
[470] The saints, too, came in for their share of the booty.
"There was St. Winifred," writes a traveller of the day, "in a point commode with a large scarf on and a loup in hand, as tho' she were going to mass. St. Denis, with a laced hat and embroidered coat and sash, like a captain of the guards."--Six Weeks in France. 1691.
[471] "Toille de Hollande, avec des grands points de France."--Le Cérémonial de la Nomination de Monseigneur le Dauphin. 1668. Arch. Nat. K. K. 1431.
[472] Le Mercure Galant. Juillet, 1688. This periodical, which we shall have occasion so frequently to quote, was begun in 1672, and continued to July, 1716. It comprises, with the Extraordinaires, 571 vols. in 12mo.
Le Mercure de France, from 1717 to 1792, consists of 777 vols.--Brunet. Manuel de Libraire.
[473] Le Mercure Galant.
[474] It was the custom, at the birth of a Dauphin, for the papal nuncio to go to the palace and present to the new-born child "les langes benites," or consecrated layette, on behalf of his Holiness the Pope. The shirts, handkerchiefs, and other linen, were by half-dozens, and trimmed with the richest point. This custom dates as early as the birth of Louis XIII. Mercier describes the ceremony of carrying the layette to Versailles in the time of Louis XV.--Vie du Dauphin, père de Louis XVI. Paris, 1858.
[475] In the Lancaster state bedroom, at Fonthill, was sold in 1823: "A state bed quilt of Brussels point, for 100 guineas, and a Brussels toilet cover for 30 guineas."--Fonthill. Sale Catalogue.
"1694. Une toilette de satin violet picquée garny d'un point d'Espagne d'or à deux carreaux de mesme satin et aussi piqué."--Inv. de Mgr. de la Vrillière, Patriarche, Archevêque de Bourges. Bib. Nat.
"1743. Une toilette et son bonhomme garnie d'une vieille dentelle d'Angleterre."--Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon.
"1758. Une toilette avec sa touaille de point fort vieux d'Alençon."--Inv. de Mademoiselle de Charollois.
"1770. Une tres belle toilette de point d'Argentan, en son surtout de 9,000 livres.
"Une tres belle toilette d'Angleterre, et son surtout de 9,000."--Cptes. de Madame du Barry.
[476] "On voit toujours des jupes de point de France."--Mercure Galant, 1686.
"Corsets chamarrés de point de France."--Ibid.
[477] Madame de Sévigné describes Mademoiselle de Blois as "belle comme un ange," with "un tablier et une bavette de point de France."--Lettres. Paris, 27 Jan., 1674.
[478] "Garnis de point de France formant une manière de rose antique."--Mercure Galant. 1677.
[479] In the Extraordinaire du Mercure for 1678, we have, in "habit d'este," gloves of "point d'Angleterre."
[480] Mercure Galant. 1672.
[481] Ibid. 1686.
[482] Mercure Galant. Fév. 1685.
[483] Ibid. 1678.
[484] At the Mazarin Library there are four folio volumes of engravings, after Bonnard and others, of the costumes of the time of Louis XIV.; and at the Archives Nat. is a large series preserved in cartons numbered M. 815 to 823, etc., labelled "Gravures de Modes."
[485] La Fontange altière.--Boileau.
[486] The wife of Trajan wore this coiffure, and her sister Marcina Faustina, wife of Antoninus, much regretted the fashion when it went out. Speaking of this head-dress, says a writer in the Bibliothèque Universelle of 1693, "On regarde quelque fois des certaines choses comme tout à fait nouvelles, qui ne sont que des vieilles modes renouvellées. L'auteur en appelle un exemple dans les coiffures elevées que portent les femmes aujourd'hui, croyant ajouter par là quelque chose à leur taille. Les dames Romaines avaient la même ambition et mettaient des ajustemens de tête tout semblables aux Commodes et aux Fontanges de ce temps. Juvenal en parle expressément dans sa Satire VI."
[487] Galerie de l'ancienne Cour.
[488] "1699. Oct. Le Vendredi 25, il y eut grande toilette chez Madame la Duchesse de Bourgogne où les dames parurent, pour la première fois, en coiffures d'une forme nouvelle, c'est à dire beaucoup plus basses."--Mercure Galant.
[489] "Corr. de la Duchesse d'Orléans, Princesse Palatine, mère du Régent."
[490] Speaking of the Iron Mask, Voltaire writes:--"His greatest passion was for linen of great fineness and for lace."--Siècle de Louis XIV.
[491] Fought by Marshal Luxembourg--vieux tapissier de Notre-Dame--against William of Orange.
[492] Falbala--a deep single flounce of point or gold lace. The Mercure Galant, 1698, describing the Duchess of Burgundy "à la promenade," states: "Elle avoit un habit gris de lin en falbala, tout garny de dentelles d'argent."
"Femme de qualité en Steinkerke et Falbala."--Engraving of 1693.
[493] See ENGLAND.--WILLIAM III.
[494] Regnard.
[495] Dame du palais to Queen Marie Thérèse, and afterwards first lady of honour to the Duchess of Burgundy. She died 1726.
[496] Mercure Galant. 1683.
Again, in 1688, he says: "Les points de Malines sont fort en regne pour les manches qu'on nomme engageantes. Ou y met des points très-hauts, fort plissés, avec des pieds."
"Ladies trimmed their berthes and sleeves with lace; when the sleeves were short they were called engageantes; when long, pagodes. Upon skirts laces were worn volantes or as flounces, whence the name volant or flounce, which has come into use for all wide laces; these flouncings were draped either in tournantes or quilles, the former laid horizontally, the latter vertically upon skirts; but in either case these were stitched down on each edge of the lace, whereas flounces were fastened to dresses by the engrêlure or footing. Lace barbes and fontanges were used as head-dresses."
They appear to have been soon introduced into England, for Evelyn, in his Mundus Muliebris, 1690, says: "About her sleeves are engageants;" and the Ladies' Dictionary of nearly the same date gives: "Ængageants, double ruffles that fall over the wrist."
In the lace bills of Queen Mary II., we find--
£ s. d. "1694. 1¾ yd. Point for a broad pair of Engageants, at £5 10s. 9 12 6
3½ for a double pair of ditto, at £5 10s. 19 5 0
1 pair of Point Engageants 30 0 0"
--(B. M., Add. MSS. No. 5751.)
"1720. Six pairs d'engageantes, dont quatre à un rang de dentelle, et les autres paires à double rang, l'une de dentelle d'Angleterre à raiseau et l'autre de dentelle à bride."--Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon. Arch. Nat.
"1723. Une paire d'engageantes à deux rangs de point plat à raiseau."--Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé.
"1770. Six rangs d'engageantes de point à l'aiguille," with the same of point d'Argentan and Angleterre, appear in the lace bills of Madame du Barry.
[497] "1725. Deux manteaux de bain et deux chemises, aussi de bain, garnis aux manches de dentelle, l'une à bride, et l'autre à raiseau."--Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé.
"1743. Ung Tour de baignoir de bazin garny de vieille dentelle.
"Trois linges de baignoire garnis de dentelle."--Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon.
[498] Describing the duties of the "critic of each bright ruelle," Tickell says:--
"Oft with varied art, his thoughts digress On deeper themes--the documents of dress; With nice discernment, to each style of face Adapt a ribbon, or suggest a lace; O'er Granby's cap bid loftier feathers float, And add new bows to Devon's petticoat."--Wreath of Fashion.
[499] In the spring of 1802, Mr. Holcroft, when in Paris, received a polite note from a lady at whose house he visited, requesting to see him. He went, and was informed by her maid the lady was in her warm bath, but she would announce his arrival. She returned, and led him to a kind of closet, where her mistress was up to her chin in water. He knew the manners of the place, and was not surprised.--Travels.
[500] Mercier also mentions, in his Tableau de Paris, la poupée de la rue Saint-Honoré: "C'est de Paris que les profondes inventions en modes donnent des loix à l'univers. La fameuse poupée, le mannequin precieux, affublé des modes les plus nouvelles ... passe de Paris à Londres tous les mois, et va de là répandre ses graces dans toute l'Europe. Il va au Nord et du Midi, il pénètre à Constantinople et à Petersbourg, et le pli qu'a donné une main françoise se répète chez toute les nations, humbles observatrices du goût de la rue Saint-Honoré."
[501] The practice was much more ancient. M. Ladomie asserts that in the Royal expenses for 1391, figure so many livres for a doll sent to the Queen of England; in 1496 another, sent to the Queen of Spain; and in 1571 a third, to the Duchess of Bavaria.
Henry IV. writes in 1600, before his marriage to Marie de Médicis: "Frontenac tells me that you desire patterns of our fashion in dress. I send you, therefore, some model dolls."--Miss Freer's Henry IV.
It was also the custom of Venice, at the annual fair held in the Piazza of St. Mark, on the day of the Ascension (a fair which dates from 1180), to expose in the most conspicuous place of the fair a rag doll, which served as a model for the fashions for the year.--Michiel, Origine delle Feste Veneziani.
[502] Tableau de Paris. 1782.
[503] "The French nation are eminent for making a fine outside, when perhaps they want necessaries, and indeed a gay shop and a mean stock is like the Frenchman with his laced ruffles without a shirt."--The Complete English Tradesman. Dan. Defoe. Lond., 1726. Foote, in his Prologue to the Trip to Paris, says, "They sold me some ruffles, and I found the shirts."
[504] Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy. 1710-1802.
[505] Clement X. was in the habit of making presents of Italian lace, at that time much prized in France, to M. de Sabière. "He sends ruffles," said the irritated Frenchman who looked for something more tangible, "to a man who never has a shirt."
[506] "M. de Vendôme, at his marriage, was quite astonished at putting on his clean shirt a-day, and fearfully embarrassed at having some point lace on the one given him to put on at night. Indeed," continues she, "you would hardly recognise the taste of the French. The men are worse than the women. They wish their wives to take snuff, play, and pay no more attention to their dress." The exquisite cleanliness of Anne of Austria's court was at an end.
[507] In the old Scotch song of Gilderoy, the famous highwayman, we have an instance:--
"For Gilderoy, that luve of mine, Gude faith, I freely bought A wedding sark of Holland fine, Wi' silken flowers wrought."
And in an account quoted in the Reliquary, July, 1865, is the charge on Feb. 16, of "six shillings for a cravat for hur Vallentine."
[508] Inv. après le decès de Mgr. C. de Saint-Albin, Archevesque de Cambray. (Son of the Regent.) 1764. Arch. Nat. M. M. 718.
Louis XVI. had 59 pairs the year before his death: 28 of point, 21 of Valenciennes, and 10 of Angleterre.--Etat des Effets subsistant et formant le fond de la garderobe du Roi au 1^{er} Janvier, 1792. Arch. Nat. K. 506, No. 30.
[509] Etat d'un Trousseau. Description des Arts et Métiers. Paris, 1777.
[510] "Deux aunes trois quarts d'Angleterre à bride pour deux paires de manchettes tournantes, à 45 livres l'aune."--Garderobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre. 1738. Arch. Nat. K. K. 390.
[511] Ibid. The laces for ruffles were of various kinds: point brodé, point à bride, point à raiseau, point à bride à écaille, point superfin, point brillant, Angleterre à bride à raiseau, and one pair of point d'Argentan; Valenciennes pour manchettes de nuit à 42 livres l'aune.
The Duke's wardrobe accounts afford a good specimen of the extravagance in the decoration of night attire at this period:--
4 au. de point pour collet et manchettes de la chemise de nuit et garnir la coëffe, à 130 ll. 520 ll.
3 au. ¾ dito pour jabot et fourchettes de nuit et garnir le devant de la camisole, à 66 ll. 247 ll. 10s.
Sept douze de point pour plaquer sur les manches de camisolle, à 55 ll. 32 ll. 1s.
Then for his nightcaps:--
3 au. Toile fine pour Coëffes de Nuit 27 ll.
4 au. Dentelles de Malines pour les tours de Coëffes, à 20 ll. 80 ll.
5 au. ½ Valenciennes, à 46 ll. 253 ll.
52 au. dito petit point, pour garnir les Tours, à 5 ll. 5s. 273 ll.
Pour avoir monté un bonnet de nuit de point 1 l. 5s.
7 au. de campanne de point pour chamarrer la camisolle et le bonnet de nuit, à 10 ll. 10s. 73 ll. 10s.
The Marquise de Créquy speaks of a night-cap, "à grandes dentelles," offered, with la robe de chambre, to the Dauphin, son of Louis XV., by the people of the Duke de Grammont, on his having lost his way hunting, and wandered to the Duke's château.
[512] "Le Parisien qui n'a pas dix mille livres de rente n'a ordinairement ni draps, ni lit, ni serviettes, ni chemises; mais il a une montre à repetition, des glaces, des bas de soie, des dentelles."--Tableau de Paris.
[513] Histoire de Paris.
[514] "Ordinairement un laquais de bon ton prend le nom de son maître, quand il est avec d'autres laquais, il prend aussi ses moeurs, ses gestes, ses manières.... Le laquais d'un seigneur porte la montre d'or ciselée, des dentelles, des boucles à brillants," etc.--Tableau de Paris.
[515] Amusemens des Eaux de Spa. Amsterdam, 1751.
"Les manches qu'à table on voit tâter la sauce."--École des maris.
[516] The state liveries of Queen Victoria were most richly embroidered in gold. They were made in the early part of George II.'s reign, since which time they have been in use. In the year 1848, the servants appeared at the royal balls in gold and ruffles of the richest gros point de France, of the same epoch as their dresses. In 1849, the lace no longer appeared--probably suppressed by order. Queen Anne, who was a great martinet in trifles, had her servants marshalled before her every day, that she might see if their ruffles were clean and their periwigs dressed.
[517] Tableau de Paris.
[518] Mémoires.
[519] "1723. Un couvrepied de toile blanche, picqure de Marseille, garni autour d'un point en campane de demie aune de hauteur."--Inv. d'A. de Bavière, Princesse de Condé.
"1743. Un couvrepied de toile picquée, brodée or et soye, bordé de trois côtés d'une grande dentelle d'Angleterre et du quatrième d'un moyen dentelle d'Angleterre à bords.
"Un autre, garni d'une grande et moyenne dentelle de point d'Alençon.
"Un autre, garni d'un grand point de demie aune de hauteur, brodé, garni d'une campane en bas.
"Un autre, 'point à bride,'" and many others.--Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon.
[520] "1704. Deux taies d'oreiller garnies de dentelle, l'une à raiseau, et l'autre à bride."--Inv. de F. P. Loisel. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,459.
"1723. Quatre taies d'oreiller, dont trois garnies de differentes dentelles, et l'autre de Point."--Inv. d'Anne de Bavière, Princesse de Condé.
"1755. Deux taies d'oreiller garnies de point d'Alençon."--Inv. de Mademoiselle de Charollais.
"1761. Trois taies d'oreiller de dentelle de point à brides."--Inv. de la Duchesse de Modène.
"1770. 7 au. 1/8 vraie Valenciennes pour garnir une taie d'oreiller, à 60 ll. 427 10."--Comptes de Madame du Barry.
"1707. 7 au. tournante d'Angleterre pour garnir des plottes (pincushions) à 50 350 00."--Comptes de Madame du Barry.
"1788. 12 Pelottes garnies de dentelle."--Ibid.
"6 trousses à peigne garnies de dentelle."--Fourni pour Mgr. le Dauphin. Arch. Nat.
"1792. 6 Pelottes garnies de dentelle."--Linge du çi-devant Roi. Ibid.
[521] Souvenirs.
[522] Mémoires du Due de Luynes.
[523] 1786. Courts of Europe.
[524] It may be amusing to the reader to learn the laces necessary for l'État d'un Trousseau, in 1777, as given in the Description des Arts de Métiers: "Une toilette de ville en dentelle; 2 jupons garnis du même. Une coiffure avec tour de gorge, et le fichu plissé de point d'Alençon. Un idem de point d'Angleterre. 1 id. de vraie Valenciennes. Une coiffure dite 'Battant d'oeil' de Malines brodée, pour le negligé. 6 fichus simples en mousseline à mille fleurs garnis de dentelle pour le negligé. 12 grands bonnets garnis d'une petite dentelle pour la nuit. 12 à deux rangs, plus beaux, pour le jour, en cas d'indisposition. 12 serres-tête garnis d'une petite dentelle pour la nuit. 2 taies d'oreiller garnies en dentelle. 12 pièces d'estomach garnies d'une petite dentelle. 6 garnitures de corset. 12 tours de gorge. 12 paires ce manchettes en dentelle. Une toilette; les volants, au nombre de deux, sont en dentelle; ils ont 5 aunes de tour. Dessus de pelotte, en toile garnie de dentelle, etc. La Layette: 6 paires de manches pour la mère, garnies de dentelle. 24 bonnets ronds de 3 ages en dentelle. 12 bavoirs de deux ages, garnis en dentelle." The layette was furnished together with the trousseau, because, says a fabricant, "les enfans se font plus vite que les points."
[525] "1787. Pour achat de 11 au. blonde noire, à 6 10 71 livres 10 sous."--Comptes de Monsieur Hergosse.
Bib. Nat. MSS., F. Fr. 11,447.
[526] When the Empress Joséphine was at Frankfort-on-the-Maine, a masked ball was given on the occasion. The ladies, says Mademoiselle Avrillion, wore short dominoes with their faces covered with a mask, "le tour des yeux garni d'une petite dentelle noire."--Mém. de Mademoiselle Avrillion, première femme de chambre de l'Impératrice. Paris, 1833.
[527] A few extracts from Madame du Barry's lace accounts will furnish an idea of her consumption of point d'Angleterre:--
Une toilette d'Angleterre complette de 8823 livres.
Une parure composée de deux barbes, rayon et fond, 6 rangs de manchettes, 1 ½ au. de ruban fait exprès, 1/3 jabot pour le devant de tour. Le tout d'Angleterre superfin de 7000 ----
Un ajustemente d'Angleterre complet de 3216 ----
Une garniture de peignoir d'Angleterre de 2342 livres.
Une garniture de fichu d'Angleterre 388 ----
8 au. d'Angleterre pour tayes d'oreiller 240
9 ½ au. dito pour la tête 76
14 au. pied dito pour la tête 140
---- 456 livres.
[528] "Les dentelles les plus précieuses pour chaque saison."--(Duchesse d'Abrantès.)
[529] Mémoires.
[530] Mém. de la Princesse Palatine, veuve de Monsieur.
[531] "Cuisinières et Tourières." The joke formed the subject of some clever verses from the Chevalier de Boufflers.
[532] Marli, which takes its name from the village between Versailles and St. Germain, is tulle dotted with small square spots. See page 225.
[533] The barbe, or lappet, of whatever form it be, has always, in all ages and all countries, been a subject of etiquette. At the interment of Queen Mary Tudor, December 14th, 1558, it is told how the ladies in the first and second chariots were clad in mourning apparel, according to their estates, "their barbes above their chynes." "The 4 ladies on horseback in like manner had their barbes on their chynes." In the third chariot, "the ladies had their barbes under their chynes."--State Papers, Domestic, Eliz., vol. 32.
See also the curious extract from Madame de Campan's Mémoires:--
"Madame de Noailles était remplie de vertus; mais l'etiquette était pour elle une sorte d'atmosphère. Un jour je mis, sans le vouloir, cette pauvre dame dans une angoisse terrible; la reine recevait je ne sais plus qui. Tout était bien, au moins je le croyais. Je vois tout-à-coup les yeux de Madame de Noailles attachés sur les miens, et puis ses deux sourcils se levent jusqu'au haut de son front, redescendent, remontent. L'agitation de la Comtesse croissait toujours. La reine s'aperçut de tout ceci ... et me dit alors à mi-voix: 'Detachez vos barbes, où la comtesse en mourra.' L'etiquette du costume disait: 'Barbes pendentes.'"
[534] Only in her last lace bill, 1773:
"Une paire de barbes plattes longues de ¾ en blonde fine à fleurs fond d'Alençon, 36.
"Une blonde grande hauteur à bouquets détachés et à bordure riche.
"6 au. de blonde de grande hauteur façon d'Alençon à coquilles à mille poix, à 18.
"Une paire de sabots de comtesse de deux rangs de tulle blonde à festons, fond d'Alençon."--Comptes de la Comtesse du Barry. Bib. Nat. F. Fr. 8157.
Madame du Barry went to the greatest extravagance in lace ajustements, barbes, collerettes, volants, quilles, coëffes, etc., of Argentan, Angleterre, and point à l'aiguille.
[535] The great fashion. The shoes were embroidered in diamonds, which were scarcely worn on other parts of the dress. The back seam, trimmed with emeralds, was called "venez-y-voir."
[536] Souvenirs du Marquis de Valfons, 1710-1786. A "chat," tippet or Palatine, so named after the mother of the Regent.
[537] In the National Archives, formerly preserved with the Livre Rouge in the Armorie de Fer, is the Gazette pour l'année, 1782, of Marie Antoinette, consisting of a list of the dresses furnished for the Queen during the year, drawn up by the Comtesse d'Ossune, her dame des atours. We find--grands habits, robes sur le grand panier, robes sur le petit panier, with a pattern of the material affixed to each entry, and the name of the couturière who made the dress. One "Lévite" alone appears trimmed with blonde. There is also the Gazette of Madame Elizabeth, for 1792.
[538] Mémoires sur la Cour de Louis XVI.
[539] Among these were Sedan, Charleville, Mézières, Dieppe, Havre, Pont-l'Évêque, Honfleur, Eu, and more than ten neighbouring villages. The points of Aurillac, Bourgogne, and Murat disappeared; and worst of all was the loss of the manufacture of Valenciennes. Laces were also made in Champagne, at Troyes and Domchéry, etc.
[540] 1649. Anne Gohory leaves all her personals to Madame de Sévigné except her "plus beau mouchoir, le col de point fin de Flandres, et une juppe de satin à fleurs fond vert, garnye de point fin d'or et de soie."
1764. Geneviève Laval bequeaths to her sister "une garniture de dentelle de raiseau à grandes dents, valant au moins quinze livres l'aune."--Arch. de Nat. Y. 58.
1764. Anne Challus leaves her "belle garniture de dentelle en plein, manchettes, tour de gorge, palatine et fond."--Ibid.
1764. Madame de Pompadour, in her will, says, "Je donne à mes deux femmes de chambre tout ce qui concerne ma garderobe ... y compris les dentelles."
[541] Mém. de Mademoiselle d'Avrillion.
[542] Mémoires sur la Restauration, par Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès.
[543] Ibid. T. v., p. 48.
[544] After the Peace of Amiens, 1801.
[545] Mémoires de Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès.
[546] The revival first appeared in the towns which made the cheaper laces: Caen, Bayeux, Mirecourt, Le Puy, Arras, etc.
[547] "Fil de mulquinerie."
[548] The name point Colbert, adopted in memory of the great Minister, is applied to point laces in high relief.
"La brode a toujours existé dans le point d'Alençon, aussi que dans le point de Venise, seulement dans le point d'Alençon les reliefs étaient moins énlevés. On ne mettait pas seulement un fil, mais trois, cinq, huit ou dix fils, suivant l'épaisseur du relief que l'on voulait obtenir puis, sur ce bourrage, se faisaient des points bouclés très serrés de façon que la boucle fut presque sous les fils formant le relief. C'est ce point que certains fabricants nomment point Colbert."--Madame Despierres, Histoire du Point d'Alençon.--Page 228, post.
[549] In 1673, July, we read in the Mercure:--"On fait aussi des dentelles à grandes brides, comme aux points de fil sans raiseau, et des dentelles d'Espagne avec des brides claires sans picots; et l'on fait aux nouveaux points de France des brides qui en sont remplies d'un nombre infini."
[550] Mémoire concernant le Généralité d'Alençon, dressé par M. de Pommereu. 1698. Bib. Nat. MSS. Fonds Mortemart, No. 89.
[551] Vilain, velin, vellum, from the parchment or vellum upon which it is made.
"La manufacture des points de France, appelés dans le pays velin."--Savary, Vol. I., p. 108.
"The expression is still used. When the author inquired at Alençon the way to the house of Mr. R., a lace manufacturer, she was asked in return if it was 'Celui qui fait le velin?'"--Mrs. Palliser.
[552] In 1788 Arthur Young states the number of lace-makers at and about Alençon to be from 8,000 to 9,000."--Travels in France.
Madame Despierres, however, states that only 500 or 600 lace-workers left Alençon on the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes, as there were not 4,000 lace-workers then in the town.
[553] He deducts 150,000 livres for the raw material, the Lille thread, which was used at prices ranging from 60 to 1,600 livres per pound; from 800 to 900 livres for good fine point; but Lille at that time fabricated thread as high as 1,800 livres per pound.
[554] In 1705 there were ten processes:--(1) Le dessin; (2) le picage; (3) la trace; (4) les fonds; (5) la dentelure ou bride à picots; (6) la brode; (7) l'enlevage; (8) l'éboulage; (9) le régalage; (10) l'assemblage.
Mrs. Palliser gives eighteen processes, and states that this number is now reduced to twelve. The workwomen were:--(1) The piqueuse; (2) traceuse; (3) réseleuse; (4) remplisseuse; (5) fondeuse; (6) modeuse; (7) brodeuse; (8) ébouleuse; (9) régaleuse; (10) assembleuse; (11) toucheuse; (12) brideuse; (13) boucleuse; (14) gazeuse; (15) mignonneuse; (16) picoteuse; (17) affineuse; (18) affiquese.
[555] "The origin of this name Argentella is obscure, but it was presumed to imply that the lace was worked in Genoa or Venice. There is, however, no evidence of this type of lace being made there. Another theory is that Argentella is an Italianised title for the more delicate examples of point d'Argentan. The character of the lace and the style of the floral patterns worked upon mesh grounds are those of Alençon laces." In Specimen 1,373-74 in the Victoria and Albert Museum collection the cordonnet is done in buttonhole stitches closely cast over a thread which outlines various forms in the design--a distinctive mark of point d'Alençon. And the hexagonal wheel device in this example is often to be seen introduced into flounces of point d'Alençon, of which other portions are composed of the ordinary Alençon ground or réseau.--A. S. Cole. Fig. 88 and Plate LVII.
[556] Dictionnaire du Citoyen, Paris, 1761.
[557] Madame Despierres writes on this head that entries of point d'Alençon occur as early as 1663:--
"1663, 9 juin--contrat entre Georges Rouillon, Greffier, et Marie Leroy....
"1900 liv. gagnées par son industrie à faire des ouvrages de point d'Alençon."
[558] Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine, Princesse de Condé. See chap. x. note 468.
[559] In the Inventory of the Duc de Penthièvre, 1738. See chap. xi.
[560] "Une coiffure de point d'Alençon à raiseau."--Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle de Clermont, 1741. Again, 1743, Inv. de la Duchesse de Bourbon. Bib. Nat.
[561] Among the objects of religious art exhibited in 1864 at the General Assembly of the Catholics of Belgium at Malines was a "voile de bénédiction," the handkerchief used to cover the ciborium, of point d'Alençon, with figures of the Virgin, St. Catherine, St. Ursula, and St. Barbara. It belonged to the Church of St. Christopher at Charleroi.
[562] Séez has now no records of its manufacture.
[563] Descr. du Dép. de l'Orne. An IX. Publiée par ordre du ministre de l'intérieur.
[564] Illustrated News, March 22, 1856.
[565] It only requires to compare Figs. 74, 75, 76, and 80, with Figs. 82 and 83 to see the marked difference in the character of the lace.
[566] "Sous Louis XIV. il y avaient de magnifiques rinceaux, guirlandes, et cornes d'abondance d'où s'échappent de superbes fleurs. Sous Louis XV. les fabricants changèrent encore leurs dessins pour prendre les fleurs qui s'épanouent et s'ensoulent capricieusement les unes aux autres.
"Le style de Louis XVI. n'a rien de l'ampleur ni de l'élégance des styles précédents. Les formes sont arrondies; des guirlandes et des fleurettes sont la base des dessins de cette époque.
"Sous la république et le premier empire, les dessins deviennent raides" (Madame Despierres.)
[567] This effect is produced by varying the application of the two stitches used in making the flowers, the toilé, which forms the close tissue, and the grillé, the more open part of the pattern. The system has been adopted in France, Belgium, and England, but with most success in France.
"Li boen citean de Roem, E la Jovante de Caem, E de Falaise e d'Argentoen." --Roman de Rou.
[569] Henry founded a chapel at Argentan to St. Thomas of Canterbury.
[570] "The average size of a diagonal, taken from angle to angle, in an Alençon or so-called Argentan hexagon was about 1/6 of an inch, and each side of the hexagon was about 1/10 of an inch. An idea of the minuteness of the work can be formed from the fact that a side of a hexagon would be overcast with some nine or ten buttonhole stitches" (A. S. Cole). "So little is the beautiful workmanship of this ground known or understood, that the author has seen priceless flowers of Argentan relentlessly cut out and transferred to bobbin net, 'to get rid of the ugly, old, coarse ground'" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).
[571] "Les trois sortes de brides comme champ sont exécutées dans ces deux fabriques, et les points ont été et sont encore faits par les mêmes procédés de fabrication, et avec les mêmes matières textiles," writes Madame Despierres. Mrs. Palliser, on the other hand, was of opinion that the two manufactures were distinct, "though some lace-makers near Lignères-la-Doucelle worked for both establishments. Alençon made the finest réseau; Argentan specially excelled in the bride. The flowers of Argentan were bolder and larger in pattern, in higher relief, heavier and coarser than those of Alençon. The toilé was flatter and more compact. The workmanship differed in character. On the clear bride ground this lace was more effective than the minuter workmanship of Alençon; it more resembled the Venetian. Indeed, so close is its resemblance that many of the fine garnitures de robe, aprons, and tunics that have survived the revolutionary storm would be assigned to Venice, did not their pedigree prove them to be of the Argentan fabric" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).
[572] Letter of September 19th, 1744.
[573] "Burgoigne, the first part of the dress for the head next the hair."--Mundus Muliebris. 1609. "Burgoigin, the part of the head-dress that covers up the head."--Ladies' Dictionary. 1694. In Farquhar's comedy of "Sir Harry Wildair," 1700, Parley, when asked what he had been about, answers, "Sir, I was coming to Mademoiselle Furbelow, the French milliner, for a new Burgundy for my lady's head."
[574] The offenders, manufacturers and workwomen, incurred considerable fines.
[575] Nov. 12th, 1745.
[576] In 1765, under the name of Duponchel.
[577] 1772. Un ajustement de point d'Argentan--
Les 6 rangs manchettes. 1/3 pour devant de gorge. 4 au. 1/3 festonné des deux costés, le fichu et une garniture de fichu de nuit 2,500 livres. 1 au ¾ ruban de point d'Argentan, à 100 175 ---- Une collerette de point d'Argentan 360 ---- --(Comptes de Madame du Barry.)
1781. "Une nappe d'autel garnie d'une tres belle dentelle de point d'Argentan."--Inv. de l'Eglise de St. Gervais. Arch. Nat. L. 654.
1789. "Item, un parement de robe consistant en garniture, deux paires de manchettes, et fichu, le tout de point d'Argentan." (Dans la garderobe de Madame.)--Inv. de decès de Mgr. de Duc de Duras. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,440.
[578] "Une coiffure bride à picot complete."--Inv. de decès de Mademoiselle de Clermont, 1741.
[579] These details on the manufacture of Argentan have been furnished from the archives of Alençon through the kindness of M. Léon de la Sicotière, the learned archæologist of the Department of the Orne (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).
[580] Embroidery has replaced this industry among the workers of the town and the hand-spinning of hemp among those of the country.
[581] Légende du point d'Argentan, M. Eugène de Lonlay.
[582] Nouveau Réglement Général sur toutes sortes de Marchandises et Manufactures qui sont utiles et necessaires dans ce Royaume, etc., par M. le Marquis de la Gomberdière. Paris, 1634. In 8vo.
[583] M. Fournier says that France was at this time tributary to Flanders for "passemens de fil," very fine and delicately worked. Laffemas, in his Réglement Général pour dresser les Manufactures du Royaume, 1597, estimates the annual cost of these "passemens" of every sort, silk stockings, etc., at 800,000 crowns. Montchrestien, at above a million.
[584] This was established by Colbert, and there they made, as well as at Aurillac, the finest pillow lace in the style of point d'Angleterre. This manufacture was encouraged by the King and the Court, and its productions were among the choicest of the points de France.
[585] Youngest son of the Comte d'Harcourt.
[586] Vie de J.-Bap. Colbert. (Printed in the Archives Curieuses.)
[587] "Livre commode ou les Adienes de la Ville de Paris" for 1692.
[588] For the introduction of the gold point of Spain into France, see SPAIN. The manufacture of gold lace in Paris was, however, prior to Colbert.
"1732, un bord de point d'Espagne d'or de Paris, à fonds de réseau."--Garderobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Duc de Penthièvre. Arch. Nat. K. K. 390-1.
[589] In Statistique de la France, 1800, the finest silk lace is said to be made at Fontenay, Puisieux, Morges, and Louvres-en-Parisis. The coarse and common kinds at Montmorency, Villiers-le-Bel, Sarcelles, Écouen, Saint-Brice, Groslay, Gisors, Saint-Pierre-les-Champs, Etrepagny, etc. Peuchet adds: "Il s'y fait dans Paris et ses environs une grande quantité de dentelles noires dont il se fait des expéditions considérables." It was this same black silk lace which raised to so high a reputation the fabrics of Chantilly.
[590] Inv. de decés de la Duchesse de Modène. 1761.
[591] Inv. de decés du Duc de Duras. 1789.
[592] "Une fraise à deux rangs de blonde tres fine, grande hauteur, 120 l.
"Une paire de sabots de la même blonde, 84 l.
"Un fichu en colonette la fraise garnie à deux rangs d'une tres belle blonde fond d'Alençon, 120 l.
"Un pouff bordé d'un plissé de blonde tournante fond d'Alençon, à bouquets tres fins et des bouillons de même blonde." This wonderful coiffure being finished with "Un beau panache de quatre plumes couleurs impériales, 108 l."
[593] See preceding note.
[594] "The bourgoin is formed of white, stiffly-starched muslin, covering a paste-board shape, and rises to a great height above the head, frequently diminishing in size towards the top, where it finishes in a circular form. Two long lappets hang from either side towards the back, composed often of the finest lace. The bourgoins throughout Normandy are not alike."--Mrs. Stothard's Tour in Normandy.
[595] This must have included Honfleur and other surrounding localities.
By a paper on the lace trade (Mém. concernant le Commerce des Dentelles, 1704. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 14,294), we find that the making of "dentelles de bas prix," employed at Rouen, Dieppe, Le Havre, and throughout the Pays de Caux, the Bailliage of Caen, at Lyons, Le Puy, and other parts of France, one quarter of the population of all classes and ages from six to seventy years. These laces were all made of Haarlem thread. See HOLLAND.
"The lace-makers of Havre," writes Peuchet, "work both in black and white points, from 5 sous to 30 francs the ell. They are all employed by a certain number of dealers, who purchase the produce of their pillows. Much is transported to foreign countries, even to the East Indies, the Southern Seas, and the islands of America."
[596] Dictionnaire Géographique. T. Corneille. 1707.
[597] Gravures de Modes. Arch. Nat. M., 815-23.
[598] "1683. Deux housses de toille piquée avec dentelle du Havre deux camisolles de pareille toille et de dentelle du Havre."--Inv. fait après le decedz de Monseigneur Colbert. Bib. Nat. MSS. Suite de Mortemart, 34.
[599] "1651. Un tour d'autel de dentelle du Havre."--Inv. des meubles de la Sacristie de l'Oratoire de Jesus, à Paris. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. F. 8621.
"1681. Une chemisette de toile de Marseille picquée garnye de dentelle du Havre."--Inv. d'Anne d'Escoubleau de Sourdis, veuve de François de Simiane. Arch. Nat. M. M. 802.
[600] "Les ouvriers n'étant apparemment rappelés par aucune possession dans cette ville, lorsqu'elle fut rétablie, ils s'y sont établis et ont transmis leur travail à la postérité."--Peuchet.
[601] Point de Dieppe appears among the already-quoted lace boxes of 1688.
[602] Mémoires pour servir à l'Histoire de la Ville de Dieppe, composés en l'année 1761, par Michel-Claude Gurbert. P. 99.
[603] Mémoires Chronologiques pour servir à l'Histoire de Dieppe, par M. Desmarquets. 1785.
[604] Notices sur Dieppe, Arques, etc., par P. J. Feret. 1824.
[605] Peuchet, of Dieppe, says: "On ne fait pas la dentelle en roulant les fuseaux sur le coussin, mais en l'y jetant."
[606] Almanach de Dieppe pour 1847.
The Author has to express her thanks to Soeur Hubert, of the École d'Apprentissage de Dentelle, and M. A. Morin, Librarian at Dieppe, for their communications.
[607] Arch. Nat. X. 10,086.
[608] "The silk came from Nankin by way of London or the East, the black silk called 'grenadine' was dyed and prepared at Lyons, the thread was from Haarlem."--Roland de la Platière.
[609] Page 213.
[610] Letter from Edgar McCulloch, Esq., Guernsey.
[611] Blondes appear also to have been made at Le Mans:--
"Cette manufacture qui etoit autrefois entretenue à l'hôpital du Mans, lui rapportoit un benefice de 4,000 à 5,000 fr. Elle est bien tombée par la dispersion des anciennes soeurs hospitalières."--Stat. du Dép. de la Sarthe, par le Citoyen L.-M. Auvray. An X.
[612] The handkerchief of "Paris net" mentioned by Goldsmith.
[613] In the Dép. du Nord, by Jean-Ph. Briatte. "Its fall was owing to the bad faith of imitators, who substituted a single thread of bad quality for the double twisted thread of the country."--Dieudonné, Statistique de Dép. du Nord.
In the Mercure Galant for June, 1687, we find the ladies wear cornettes à la jardinière "de Marly."
[614] L'Industrie Française depuis la Révolution de Février et l'Exposition de 1848, par M. A. Audiganne.
M. Aubry thus divides the lace-makers of Normandy:--
Department of Calvados-- Arrondissement of Caen 25,000 Arr. of Bayeux 15,000 Arr. of Pont-l'Evêque, Falaise,* and Lisieux 10,000 Departments of La Manche and Seine-Inférieure 10,000 ------ 60,000
The women earn from 50 sous to 25 sous a day, an improvement on the wages of the last century, which, in the time of Arthur Young, seldom amounted to 24 sous.
Their products are estimated at from 8 to 10 millions of francs (£320,000 to £400,000).
* "Falaise, dentelles façon de Dieppe."--Peuchet.
[615] He had run away with the rich heiress of Coadelan.
[616] Chants populaires de la Bretagne, par Th. Hersart de la Villemarqué.
[617] The bringing home of the wedding dress is an event of solemn importance. The family alone are admitted to see it, and each of them sprinkles the orange blossoms with which it is trimmed with holy water placed at the foot of the bed whereon the dress is laid, and offers up a prayer for the future welfare of the wearer.
[618] French Hainault, French Flanders and Cambrésis (the present Dép. du Nord), with Artois, were conquests of Louis XIII. and Louis XIV., confirmed to France by the treaties of Aix-la-Chapelle (1668) and Nimeguen (1678).
[619] Photographed in the Album d'Archéologie Religieuse. It is supposed to have been made towards the end of the seventeenth century.
[620] Founded 1630.
[621] "1772. 15 aunes 3-16^{mes} jabot haut de vraie Valencienne, 3,706 livres 17 sous"; and many other similar entries.
[622] "5/8 Bâtarde dito à bordure, à 60 ll., 37 ll. 10 s."--Comptes de Madame du Barry.
[623] Statistique du Dép. du Nord, par M. Dieudonné, Préfet en 1804.
[624] "Among the various fabrics having the same process of manufacture, there is not one which produces exactly the same style of lace. The same pattern, with the same material, whether executed in Belgium, Saxony, Lille, Arras, Mirecourt, or Le Puy, will always bear the stamp of the place where it is made. It has never been possible to transfer any kind of manufacture from one city to another without there being a marked difference between the productions."--Aubry.
"After the French Revolution, when so many lace-makers fled to Belgium, Alost, Ypres, Bruges, Ghent, Menin, and Courtrai became the centres of this industry, and the lace produced in each town has a distinctive feature in the ground. That made in Ghent is square-meshed, the bobbins being twisted two and a half times. At Ypres, which makes a better quality of Valenciennes, the ground is also square-meshed, but the bobbins are twisted four times. In Courtrai and Menin the grounds are twisted three and a half times, and in Bruges, where the ground has a circular mesh, the bobbins are twisted three times."
[625] In the already quoted Etat d'un Trousseau, 1771, among the necessary articles are enumerated: "Une coëffure, tour de gorge et le fichu plissé de vraie Valencienne." The trimming of one of Madame du Barry's pillowcases cost 487 fr.; her lappets, 1,030. The ruffles of the Duchesse de Modène and Mademoiselle de Charollais are valued at 200 livres the pair. Du Barry, more extravagant, gives 770 for hers.
[626] "2 barbes et rayon de vraie valencienne; 3 au. ¾ collet grande hauteur; 4 au. grand jabot; le tout de la même main, de 2,400 livres."--Comptes de Madame du Barry. 1770.
[627] Arthur Young, in 1788, says of Valenciennes: "Laces of 30 to 40 lines' breadth for gentlemen's ruffles is from 160 to 216 livres (£9 9s.) an ell. The quantity for a lady's headdress from 1,000 to 24,000 livres. The women gain from 20 to 30 sous a day. 3,600 persons are employed at Valenciennes, and are an object of 450,000 livres, of which the flax is not more than 1/30. The thread costs from 24 to 700 livres the pound."
[628] The "barbes pleines" consisted of a pair of lappets from 3 to 5 inches wide each, and half an ell (20 inches) long, with a double pattern of sprigged flowers and rounded at the ends. A narrow lace 1 ½ ell long, called the Papillon, with the bande or passe, and the fond de bonnet, completed the suit.
[629] The fault of the old Valenciennes lace is its colour, never of a clear white, but inclining to a reddish cast.
[630] "Les dentelières avaient adopté un par-dessus de calamande rayée, un bonniquet de toile fine plissé à petits canons. Une médaille d'argent, pendue au cou par un petit liseré noir, complétait leur costume, qui est arrivé jusqu'à nous; car nous l'avons vu, il n'y a pas trente ans."--Hist. de Lille, par V. Derode. Paris et Lille, 1848.
[631] Mémoires sur l'Intendance de Flandre.--MS. Bib. de Lille.
[632] Period of the peace of Utrecht when Lille, which had been retaken by Prince Eugène, was again restored to France.
[633] Histoire Populaire de Lille. Henri Brunet. Lille, 1848; and Histoire de Lille. V. Derode.
[634] Report of the Commissioners for 1851.
[635] As late as 1761 Lille was considered as "foreign" with respect to France, and her laces made to pay duty according to the tariff of 1664.
In 1708 (31st of July) we have an Arrest du Conseil d'Estat du Roy, relative to the seizure of seventeen cartons of lace belonging to one "Mathieu, marchand à l'Isle." Mathieu, in defence, pretends that "les dentelles avoient esté fabriquées à Haluin (near Lille), terre de la domination de Sa Majesté."--Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau.
[636] See FLANDERS (WEST), treille.
[637] In 1789, thread was 192 francs the kilogramme.
[638] Describing her trousseau, every article of which was trimmed with Angleterre, Malines, or Valenciennes, she adds: "A cette époque (1800), on ignorait même l'existence du tulle, les seules dentelles communes que l'on connût étaient les dentelles de Lille et d'Arras, qui n'étaient portées que par les femmes les plus ordinaires."--Mém. de Madame la Duchesse d'Abrantès. T. iii. Certainly the laces of Lille and Arras never appear in the inventories of the "grandes dames" of the last century.
[639] Dieudonné.
[640] Peuchet states much "fausse Valenciennes, très rapprochée de la vraie," to have been fabricated in the hospital at Lille, in which institution there were, in 1723, 700 lace-workers.
[641] A piece of Lille lace contains from 10 to 12 ells.
[642] "L'Abbaye du Vivier, etablie dans la ville d'Arras," Poëme par le Père Dom Martin du Buisson, in Mémoires et Pièces pour servir a l'Histoire de la Ville d'Arras.--Bib. Nat. MSS., Fonds François, 8,936.
[643] Bib. Nat. MSS., Fonds François, 8,936.
[644] We find in the Colbert Correspondence (1669), the directors of the General hospital at Arras had enticed lace-workers of point de France, with a view to establish the manufacture in their hospital, but the jealousy of the other cities threatening to overthrow their commerce, they wrote to Colbert for protection.
[645] Gt. Ward. Acc. Geo. I. 1714-15 (P. R. O.), and Acc. of John, Duke of Montagu, master of the Great Wardrobe, touching the expenses of the funeral of Queen Anne and the coronation of George I. (P.R.O.)
In 1761 an Act was passed against its being counterfeited, and a vendor of "Orrice lace" (counterfeit, we suppose) forfeits her goods.
[646] Statistique des Gens de Lettres. 1808. Herbin. T. ii.
[647] A museum of lace has been established at Bailleul.
[648] In 1788, Bailleul, Cassel, and the district of Hazebrouck, had 1351 lace-makers. In 1802 the number had diminished; but it has since gradually increased. In 1830 there were 2,500. In 1851 there were already 8,000, dispersed over twenty communes.
[649] Haute-Loire, Cantal, Puy-de-Dôme, and Loire.
[650] 1640.
[651] 1833 and 1848.
[652] By Médecis.
[653] They represent to the king that the laces of the "diocèse du Puy, du Vélay et de l'Auvergne, dont il se faisait un commerce très considérable dans les pays étrangers, par les ports de Bordeaux, La Rochelle et Nantes," ought not to pay the import duties held by the "cinq grosses fermes."--Arrest du Conseil d'Estat du Roy, 6 August, 1707. Arch. Nat. Coll. Rond. They ended by obtaining a duty of five sous per lb., instead of the 50 livres paid by Flanders and England, or the ten livres by the laces of Comté, Liège, and Lorraine.
[654] 1715 and 1716.
[655] See MILAN.
[656] Roland de la Platière.
[657] Three-fourths were consumed in Europe in time of peace:--Sardinia took 120,000 francs, purchased by the merchants of Turin, once a year, and then distributed through the country: Florence and Spain, each 200,000; Guyenne exported by the merchants of Bordeaux 200,000; 500,000 went to the Spanish Indies. The rest was sold in France by means of colporteurs.--Peuchet.
[658] In Auvergne lace has preserved its ancient names of "passement" and "pointes," the latter applied especially to needle-made lace. It has always retained its celebrity for passements or guipures made in bands. The simplicity of life in the mountains has doubtless been a factor in the unbroken continuity of the lace-trade.
[659] Le Puy in recent years has named some of its coarse patterns "guipure de Cluny," after the museum in Paris--a purely fanciful name.
[660] Savinière d'Alquie.
[661] Savary. Point d'Aurillac is mentioned in the Révolte des Passemens.
[662] Histoire du point d' Alençon, Madame Despierres.
[663] "Voile de toile d'argent, garni de grandes dentelles d'or et argent fin, donné en 1711 pour envelopper le chef de S. Gaudence."--Inventaire du Monastère des Bénédictines de St. Aligre.
[664] In the convents are constantly noted down "point d'Espagne d'or et argent fin," while in the cathedral of Clermont the chapter contented itself with "dentelles d'or et argent faux."
[665] "1773. 6 au. de grande entoilage de belle blonde à poix."
[666] "16 au. entoilage à mouches à 11 l., 1761."--Comptes de Madame du Barry.
[667] "7 au. de tulle pour hausser les manchettes, à 9 l., 63 l."--1770. Cptes. de Madame du Barry.
[668] Souvenirs de la Marquise de Créquy.
[669] In an old geography we find, "Tulle, Tuille three hundred years ago."
The word Tule or Tuly occurs in an English inventory of 1315, and again, in "Sir Gawayn and the Green Knight"; but in both cases the word seems not to indicate a stuff but rather a locality, probably Toulouse.--Francisque Michel.
In Skelton's Garland of Lawrell, we find, "A skein of tewly silk"; which his commentator, the Rev. A. Dyce, considers to be "dyed of a red colour."
[670] As early as 1615 there appears to have been a traffic with Italy in laces, the painter Claude Lorraine being taken to Italy in that year by his uncle, a carrier and dealer in laces.
[671] Neufchâteau.
[672] The trader who purchases the lace is called "peussemotier."
[673] The Lorraine laces could only enter France by the bureau of Chaumont, nor could they leave the country without a formal permit delivered at Monthureux-le-Sec.--Arch. Nat., Coll. Rondonneau.
[674] In a catalogue of the collection of objects of religious art, exhibited at Mechlin in 1864, we find noticed, "Dentelle pour rochet, point de Nancy," from the church of St. Charles at Antwerp, together with various "voiles de bénédiction," laces for rochets and altar-cloths, of "point de Paris."
[675] The Tableau Statistique du Dép. des Vosges, by Citoyen Desgoulles, An X, says: "Mirecourt is celebrated for its lace fabrics. There are twenty lace merchants; but the workers are not attached to any particular house. They buy their own thread, make the lace, and bring it to the merchants of Mirecourt to purchase. The women follow this occupation when not engaged in field work; but they only earn from 25 to 40 centimes a day. Before the Revolution, 7/8 of the coarse lace was exported to Germany towards Swabia. Of the fine qualities, France consumed 2/3. The remainder went to the colonies."
[676] So are those of Courseulles (Calvados).
[677] Savary. Sedan was ceded to Louis XIII. in 1642.
[678] "Eidem pro 6 divi[=t] Sedan et Itali[=e] colaris opere scis[=s] et pro 62 purles opere acuo pro 6 pa[=r] mani[=c] lintea[=r] eisdem, £116 6s."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. I., ix. to xi. P. R. O.
[679] "Eidem pro 6 divi[=t] Pultenarian Sedan de opere scis[=s] colaris et pro 72 purles divi[=t] opere acuo pro mani[=c] lintea[=r] eisdem, £106 16s."--Gt. Ward. Acc. Car. I., xi. to xii.
[680] In 1700 there were several lace manufacturers at Charleville, the principal of whom was named Vigoureux.--Hist. de Charleville. Charleville, 1854.
[681] Savary. Ed. 1726.
[682] Description de la France. Ed. 1752.
[683] Savary.
[684] John Roberts, of Burgundy, eight years in England, "a knitter of knotted wool."
Peter de Grue, Burgundian, "knitter of cauls and sleeves."
Callys de Hove, "maker of lace," and Jane his wife, born in Burgundy.--State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol. 84. P.R.O.
[685] M. Joseph Garnier, the learned Archiviste of Dijon, informed Mrs. Palliser that "les archives de l'hospice Sainte-Anne n'ont conservé aucune trace de la manufacture de dentelles qui y fut établie. Tout ce qu'on sait, c'est qu'elle était sous la direction d'un sieur Helling, et qu'on y fabriquait le point d'Alençon."
[686] Descr. du Dép. de la Vienne, par le Citoyen Cochon. An X.
[687] "Ce n'est pas une grande chose que la manufacture de points qui est établie dans l'hôpital de Bourdeaux."--Savary. Edit. 1726.
[688] Table of the Number of Lace-workers in France in 1851. (From M. Aubry.)
Manufacture of Chantilly and Alençon:--
Orne } Seine-et-Oise } Eure } 12,500 Seine-et-Marne } Oise }
Manufacture of Lille, Arras, and Bailleul:--
Nord } Pas-de-Calais } 18,000
Manufacture of Normandy, Caen, and Bayeux:--
Calvados } Manche } 55,000 Seine-Inférieure }
Manufacture of Lorraine, Mirecourt:--
Vosges } Meurthe } 22,000
Manufacture of Auvergne, Le Puy:--
Cantal } Haute Loire } 130,000 Loire } Puy-de-Dôme }
Application-work at Paris} and Lace-makers } 2,500 ------- Total 240,000 -------
In his Report on the Universal Exhibition of 1867, M. Aubry estimates the number at 200,000--their average wages from 1 to 1½ francs a day of ten hours' labour; some earn as much as 3½ francs. Almost all work at home, combining the work of the pillow with their agricultural and household occupations. Lace schools are being founded throughout the northern lace departments of France, and prizes and every kind of encouragement given to the pupils by the Empress, as well as by public authorities and private individuals.
[689] In the Census of 1571, giving the names of all strangers in the city of London, we find mention but of one Dutchman, Richard Thomas, "a worker of billament lace."
[690] In 1689 appears an "Arrest du Roi qui ordonne l'exécution d'une sentence du maître de poste de Rouen, portant confiscation des dentelles venant d'Amsterdam."--Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau.
[691] 1685.
[692] We have frequent mention of dentelle à la reine previous to its introduction into Holland.
1619. "Plus une aulne ung tiers de dentelle à la reyne."--Trésorerie de Madame, Soeur de Roi. Arch. Nat. K. K. 234.
1678. "Les dames mettent ordinairement deux cornettes de Point à la Reyne ou de soie écrue, rarement de Point de France, parce que le point clair sied mieux au visage."--Mercure Galant.
1683. "Deux Aubes de toille demie holande garnis de point à la Reyne."--Inv. fait apres le decedz de Mgr. Colbert. Bib. Nat. MSS. Suite de Mortemart, 34.
[693] C. Weisse. History of the French Protestant Refugees from the Edict of Nantes. Edinburgh, 1854.
[694] Grandson of Simon Châtelain. See Chap. VI.
[695] In the paper already referred to (see NORMANDY) on the lace trade, in 1704, it is stated the Flemish laces called "dentelles de haut prix" are made of Lille, Mons and Mechlin thread, sent to bleach at Haarlem, "as they know not how to bleach them elsewhere." The "dentelles de bas prix" of Normandy and other parts of France being made entirely of the cheaper thread of Haarlem itself, an Act, then just passed, excluding the Haarlem thread, would, if carried out, annihilate this branch of industry in France.--Commerce des Dentelles de Fil. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 14,294.
[696] And. Yarranton. 1677.
[697] "Flax is improved by age. The saying was, 'Wool may be kept to dust, flax to silk.' I have seen flax twenty years old as fine as a hair."--Ibid.
[698] Commerce de la Hollande. 1768.
[699] Edinburgh Amusement.
[700] Six Weeks in the Court and Country of France. 1691.
[701] Treillis d'Allemagne is early mentioned in the French inventories:--
1543. "Pour une aulne deux tiers trillist d'Allemagne."--Argenterie de la Reine (Eléonore d'Autriche). Arch. Nat. K. K. 104.
1557. "Pour une aulne de treilliz noir d'Allemagne pour garnir la robbe de damars noir ou il y a de la bizette."--Comptes de l'Argentier du Roi (Henry II.). Arch. Nat. K. K. 106.
[702] "At a meeting of the Society of Polite Arts, premiums were given to a specimen of a new invention imitating Dresden work. It is done with such success as to imitate all the various stitches of which Dresden work is composed, with such ingenuity as to surpass the finest performance with the needle. This specimen, consisting of a cap and a piece for a long apron, the apron, valued by the inventress at £2 2s., was declared by the judges worth £56."--Annual Register. 1762.
[703] "Smash go the glasses, aboard pours the wine on circling laces, Dresden aprons, silvered silks, and rich brocades." And again, "Your points of Spain, your ruffles of Dresden."--Fool of Quality. 1766.
[704] Caledonian Mercury. 1760.
[705] Letter from Koestritz. 1863.
[706] In 1713.
[707] Weisse.
[708] Dated Oct. 29, 1685.
[709] Anderson.
[710] Arch. Nat. Coll. Rondonneau.
[711] "Commissions and Privileges granted by Charles I., Landgrave of Hesse, to the French Protestants, dated Cassel, Dec. 12, 1685."
[712] Peuchet.
[713] Anderson.
[714] La France Protestante, par M. M. Haag. Paris 1846-59.
[715] "Item. Dix carrez de tapisserye a poinctz de Hongrye d'or, d'argent et soye de differends patrons."--1632.
Inv. après le decès du Maréchal de Marillac. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,424.
[716] Hungary was so styled in the seventeenth century. In a Relation of the most famous Kingdoms and Common Weales through the World, London, 1608, we find "Hungerland."
[717] "City Madam." Massinger.
[718] Pictures of German Life in the Fifteenth, Sixteenth, and Seventeenth Centuries, by Gustaf Freytag.
[719] Merveilleux Amusements des Bains de Bade. Londres, 1739.
[720] Bishop of Salisbury. "Letters." 1748-9.
[721] Modelbuch in Kupfen gemacht. Nürnberg, 1601.
[722] Poppenreuth is about a German mile from Nuremberg.
[723] "Austria."--Report of the International Exhibition of 1862.
[724] As quoted in Lefébure's Embroidery and Lace.
[725] Haag. La France Protestante.
[726] The Neufchâtel trade extended through the Jura range from the valley of Lake Joux (Vaud) to Porentruy, near Bâle.
[727] Statistique de la Suisse. Picot, de Genève. 1819.
[728] A curious pattern-book has been sent to us, belonging to the Antiquarian Society of Zurich, through the kindness of its president, Dr. Ferd. Keller. It contains specimens of a variety of narrow braids and edgings of a kind of knotted work, but only a few open-work edgings that could be called lace.
[729] On her marriage, 1515.
[730] "1619. Sept. 11. Paid for a lace, 63 rixd. 11 skillings.
"1620. Oct. 11. Paid to a female lace-worker, 28 rixd.
"Nov. 4. Paid 10 rixd. to a female lace-worker who received her dismissal.
"Nov. 11. Paid 71 specie dollars to a lace-seller for lace for the use of the children.
"Paid 33 specie dollars and 18 skill. Lubec money, to the same man for lace and cambric.
"1625. May 19. Paid 21 rixd. for lace.
"Dec. 20. Paid 25 specie dollars 15 skill. Lubec money, for taffetas and lace."
[731] 1639.
[732] Rawert's Report upon the Industry in the Kingdom of Denmark. 1848.
[733] "The Great Recess."
[734] Two-thirds of a yard.
[735] Dated 1643.
[736] "Tönder lace, fine and middling, made in the districts of Lygum Kloster, keeps all the peasant girls employed. Thereof is exported to the German markets and the Baltic, it is supposed, for more than 100,000 rixdollars (£11,110), and the fine thread must be had from the Netherlands, and sometimes costs 100 rixdollars per lb."--Pontoppidan. Economical Balance. 1759.
[737] "In the Victoria and Albert Museum collection, Denmark is represented by a few skilful embroideries done on and with fine linen, muslin and suchlike, which are somewhat similar in appearance to lace fabrics of Mechlin design."--(A. S. Cole.)
[738] "The lace fabric in North Sleswick in 1840 was divided into two districts--that of Tönder and Lygum Kloster on the western coasts, and that of Haderslaben and Apenraade on the east. The quality of the lace from these last localities is so bad that no Copenhagen dealers will have it in their shops."--Report of the Royal Sleswick-Holstein Government. 1840.
[739] Mr. Jens Wulff, an eminent lace-dealer, Knight of the Danebrog, who has made great exertions to revive the lace industry in Denmark.
[740] Tönder lace was celebrated for its durability, the best flax or silk thread only being used.
[741] "A lace-maker earns from 3½d. to 4½d. per day of sixteen hours."--Rawert's Report. 1848.
[742] The Tönder lace-traders enjoy the privilege of offering their wares for sale all over Denmark without a license (concession), a privilege extended to no other industry.
[743] The early perfection of Bridget herself in this employment, if we may credit the chronicle of the Abbess Margaretha, 1440-46, may be ascribed to a miraculous origin.
When, at the age of twelve, she was employed at her knitted lace-work, a fear came over her that she should not finish her work creditably to herself, and in her anxiety she raised her heart above. As her aunt came into the chamber she beheld an unknown maiden sitting opposite to her niece, and aiding her in her task; she vanished immediately, and when the aunt asked Bridget who had helped her she know nothing about it, and assured her relation she had seen no one.
All were astonished at the fineness and perfection of the work, and kept the lace as of miraculous origin.
[744] Wadstena Past and Present (Förr och Nu).
[745] The letter is dated March 20th, 1544.
[746] In the detailed account of the trousseau furnished to his daughter, there is no mention of lace; but the author of One Year in Sweden has seen the body of his little granddaughter, the Princess Isabella, daughter of John III., as it lies in the vault of Strengnäs, the child's dress and shoes literally covered with gold and silver lace of a Gothic pattern, fresh and untarnished as though made yesterday.
[747] In the Victoria and Albert Museum there is a collection of Norwegian cut-work of the eighteenth century.
[748] Weber. Bilberbuch.
Leipzig, 1746. Handbok for unga Fruntimmer, by Ekenmark. Stockholm, 1826-28.
[749] Some are twice the width of Fig. 117.
[750] For this information, with a collection of specimens, the author has to thank Madame Petre of Gefle.
[751] The Russian bobbins are interesting by reason of their archaic simplicity. Lacking any trace of decoration, whether suggested by sentimental fancy or artistic taste, they are purely utilitarian, mere sticks of wood, more or less straight and smooth, and six or seven inches long.
[752] A depôt has been opened in London, where Russian laces and embroidery of all kinds are shown.
[753] Rot. Parl. 37 Edw. III. Printed. P. 278, Col. 2, No. 26.
[754] See her monument in Westminster Abbey.--Sandford's Genealogical History.
[755] "Blanche, Duchess of Lancaster, wife of John of Gaunt, wears a quilted silk cap with a three-pointed border of broad lace network." (Sandford. St. Paul's monument, after Dugdale.) "Elizabeth, Duchess of Exeter, died 1425 (Sandford, p. 259), wore also a caul of network with a needlework edging."
[756] In the Statute 2 Rich. II. = 1378, merchant strangers are allowed to sell in gross and in retail "gold wire or silver wire" and other such small ware. Neither in this nor in the Treaty 13 Rich. II. = 1390, between England, the Count of Flanders, and "les bonnes Gentz des Trois bonnes villes de Flandres Gand, Brugges et Ipre" (see Rymer), is there any mention of lace, which, even if fabricated, was of too little importance as an article of commerce to deserve mention save as other "small wares."
[757] Pins not yet being in common use, any lace would be called "work of the needle."
[758] 3 Edw. IV., cap. iv.
[759] "1463. John Barett bequeaths to 'My Lady Walgrave, my musk ball of gold with [=p]le and lace.
"'Item, to John Eden, my o gr. of tawny silk with poynts of needle work--opus punctatum.'"--Bury Wills and Inventories.
[760] Bib. Harl. 2,320.
[761] Such as "Lace Bascon, Lace endented, Lace bordred on both syde, yn o syde, pykke Lace bordred, Lace Condrak, Lace Dawns, Lace Piol, Lace covert, Lace coverte doble, Lace compon coverte, Lace maskel, Lace cheyne brode, Las Cheveron, Lace Oundé, Grene dorge, Lace for Hattys," etc.
Another MS. of directions for making these same named laces is in the possession of the Vicar of Ipsden, Oxfordshire, and has been examined by the author through the kindness of Mr. W. Twopenny.
[762] Bows, loops.
[763] Additional MSS. No. 6,293, small quarto, ff. 38. It contains instructions for making various laces, letters and "edges," such as "diamond stiff, fly, cross, long S, figure of 8, spider, hart," etc., and at the end:--
"Heare may you see in Letters New The Love of her that honoreth you. My love is this, Presented is The Love I owe I cannot showe, The fall of Kings Confusion bringes Not the vallyou but the Love When this you see Remember me."
In the British Museum (Lansdowne Roll, No. 22) is a third MS. on the same subject, a parchment roll written about the time of Charles I., containing rules and directions for executing various kinds of sampler-work, to be wrought in letters, etc., by means of coloured strings or bows. It has a sort of title in these words, "To know the use of this Booke it is two folkes worke," meaning that the works are to be done by two persons.
Probably of this work was the "Brede (braid) of divers colours, woven by Four Ladies," the subject of some verses by Waller beginning:--
"Twice twenty slender Virgins' Fingers twine This curious web, where all their fancies shine. As Nature them, so they this shade have wrought, Soft as their Hands, and various as their Thoughts," etc.
[764] 1 Rich. III. = 1483. Act XII.
[765] Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York, and Wardrobe Accounts of King Edward IV., by Sir H. Nicolas.
[766] 1 Rich. III. renews 3 Edw. IV. for ten years, and that of Richard is continued by 19 Henry VII. for twenty years more.
[767] 4 Hen. VII. = 1488-9.
[768] P.R.O. The same Warrant contains an order to deliver "for the use and wearing of our right dere daughter the Lady Mary," together with a black velvet gown, scarlet petticoat, etc., "a nounce of lace for her kyrtel," and a thousand "pynnes."
[769] In the list of the late King Henry's plate, made 1543, we have some curious entries, in which the term lace appears:--
"Item, oone picture of a woman made of erthe with a carnation Roobe knitt with a knott in the lefte shoulder and bare hedid with her heere rowlid up with a white lace sett in a boxe of wodde.
"Item, oone picture of a woman made of erthe with a carnac[=o]n garment after the Inglishe tyer and bareheddid with her heare rowled up with a white lace sett in a boxe of wodde."--P. R. O.
[770] 19 Hen. VII. = 1504.
[771] Sir H. Nicolas.
[772] Statute 1 Hen. VIII. = 1509-10. An act agaynst wearing of costly Apparell, and again, 6 Hen. VIII. = 1514-15.
"Gard, to trim with lace."--Cotgrave.
"No less than crimson velvet did him grace, All garded and regarded with gold lace."--Samuel Rowlands, _A Pair of Spy-Knaves._
"I do forsake these 'broidered gardes, And all the fashions new."--The Queen in King Cambisis, circ. 1615.
[774] Under forfeiture of the same shirt and a fine of 40 shillings.
[775] 7 Hen. VIII. = 1515-16.--"Thacte of Apparell."
[776] 24 Hen. VIII. = 1532-33.--"An Act for Reformation of excess in Apparel."
[777] In 1539.
[778] Lisle. Corr. Vol. i., p. 64. P.R.O. Lord Lisle was Governor of Calais, whence the letter is dated.
Honor. Lylle to Madame Antoinette de Sevenges, à Dunkerke.
"Madame,--Je ne vous eusse vollu envoier ceste demi dousaine pour changier nestoit que tous celles que menvoiez dernierement sont trop larges, et une dousaine estoit de cestuy ouvrage dont jestis esmerveillé, veu que je vous avois escript que menvoissiez de louvrage aux lozenges, vous priant que la demy dousaine que menvoierez pour ceste demy dousaine soient du dict ouvrage de lozenge, et quil soient plus estroictes mesmement par devant nonobstant que lexemple est au contraire."
[779] Among the marriage clothes of Mary Neville, who espoused George Clifton, 1536, is:--
"A neyge of perle, £1 4s. 0d."
In the pictures, at Hampton Court Palace, of Queens Mary and Elizabeth, and another of Francis II., all as children, their ruffs are edged with a very narrow purl.
[780] 1538. Lisle. Corr. (P.R.O.)
[781] See Note 776.
[782] Privy Purse Ex. Hen. VIII. 1529-32. Sir H. Nicolas.
[783] Father of Lord Burleigh. There are other similar entries:--"8 pieces of yellow lace, 9s. 4d." Also, "green silk lace."
1632, "green silk lace" occurs again, as trimming a pair of French shoes in a "Bill of shoes for Sir Francis Windebank and family."--State Papers Dom. Vol. 221. P.R.O.
[784] "Inv. of Hen. VIII. and 4 Edw. VI." Harl. MS. 1419, A and B.
[785] 38 Hen. VIII. = 1546. Rymer's Foedera. Vol. xv., p. 105.
[786] Harl. MS. 1419. Passim.
[787] See Holbein's portraits.
[788] "The old cut-work cope."--Beaumont and Fletcher. The Spanish Curate.
[789] We read, too, of "3 kyrcheys y^t was given to the kyrk wash," large as a woman's hood worn at a funeral, highly ornamented with the needle by pious women, and given to be sold for the good of the impoverished church, for which the churchwardens of St. Michael, Spurr Gate, York, received the sum of 5s.
[790] 1 and 2 Ph. and Mary.
[791] "White work" appears also among Queen Elizabeth's New Year's Gifts:--
"1578. Lady Ratcliff. A veil of white work, with spangles and small bone lace of silver. A swete bag, being of changeable silk, with a small bone lace of gold.
"1589. Lady Shandowes (Chandos). A cushion cloth of lawne wrought with whitework of branches and trees, edged with bone work, wrought with crowns."--Nichols' Royal Progresses.
[792] Roll of New Year's Gifts. 1556.
[793] Stowe, Queen Mary. An. 1554.
[794] It is not known when brass wire pins were first made in England, but it must have been before 1543, in which year a Statute was passed (35 Hen. VIII.) entitled, "An Act for the True Making of Pynnes," in which the price is fixed not to exceed 6s. 8d. per 1,000. By an Act of Rich. III. the importation of pins was prohibited. The early pins were of boxwood, bone, bronze or silver. In 1347 (Liber Garderobæ, 12-16 Edw. III. P. R. O.) we have a charge for 12,000 pins for the trousseau of Joanna, daughter of Edward III., betrothed to Peter the Cruel. The young Princess probably escaped a miserable married life by her decease of the black death at Bordeaux when on her way to Castille.
The annual import of pins in the time of Elizabeth amounted to £3,297.--State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol. viii. P. R. O.
In Eliz., Q. of Bohemia's Expenses, we find: "Dix mille espingles dans un papier, 4 florins."--Ger. Corr. No. 41. P. R. O.
"In Holland pillow-lace is called Pinwork lace--Gespelde-werkte kant."--Sewell's Eng. and Dutch Dict.
[795] An elderly woman informed the author that she recollects in her youth, when she learned to make Honiton point of an ancient teacher of the parish, bone pins were still employed. They were in use until a recent period, and renounced only on account of their costliness. The author purchased of a Devonshire lace-maker one, bearing date 1829, with the name tatooed into the bone, the gift of some long-forgotten youth to her grandmother. These bone or wood bobbins, some ornamented with glass beads--the more ancient with silver let in--are the calendar of a lace-worker's life. One records her first appearance at a neighbouring fair or May meeting; a second was the first gift of her good man, long cold in his grave; a third the first prize brought home by her child from the dame school, and proudly added to her mother's cushion: one and all, as she sits weaving her threads, are memories of bygone days of hopes and fears, of joys and sorrows; and, though many a sigh it calls forth, she cherishes her well-worn cushion as an old friend, and works away, her present labour lightened by the memory of the past.
[796] Surtees' Wills and Inv.
"Hearing bone lace value 5s. 4d." is mentioned "in y^e shoppe of John Johnston, of Darlington, merchant."
[797] 1578. "James Backhouse, of Kirby in Lonsdale. Bobbin lace, 6s. per ounce."
1597. "John Farbeck, of Durham. In y^e Shoppe, 4 oz. & ½ of Bobbing lace, 6s. 4d."--Ibid.
"Bobbin" lace is noted in the Royal Inventories, but not so frequently as "bone."
"Laqueo ... fact. super lez bobbins."--G. W. A. Eliz., 27 and 28. P. R. O.
"Three peces teniar bobbin."--Ibid. Car. I., vi.
"One pece of bobin lace, 2s.," occurs frequently in the accounts of Lord Compton, afterwards Earl of Northampton, Master of the Wardrobe of Prince Charles.--Roll, 1622-23, Extraordinary Expenses, and others. P. R. O.
[798] In the Ward. Acc. of his brother, Prince Henry, 1607, and the Warrant to the G. Ward., on his sister the Princess Elizabeth's marriage, 1612-13, "bone" lace is in endless quantities.
Bobbin lace appears invariably distinguished from bone lace, both being mentioned in the same inventory. The author one day showed an old Vandyke Italian edging to a Devonshire lace-worker, asking her if she could make it. "I think I can," she answered; "it is bobbin lace." On inquiring the distinction, she said: "Bobbin lace is made with a coarse thread, and in its manufacture we use long bobbins instead of the boxwood of ordinary size, which would not hold the necessary quantity of this thread, though sufficient for the quality used in making Honiton flowers and Trolly lace."--Mrs. Palliser.
[799] Randle Holme, in his enumeration of terms used in arts, gives: "Bone lace, wrought with pegs."
The materials used for bobbins in Italy have been already mentioned.
[800] Lord Compton. "Extraordinary Expenses of the Wardrobe of K. Charles, before and after he was King."--Roll, 1622-26. P. R. O.
[801] An. 1635.
[802] A miniature of Old Hilliard, now in the possession of his Grace the Duke of Hamilton.
[803] 1614.
[804] Massinger. 1612.
[805] Beaumont and Fletcher.
[806] "The things you follow and make songs on now, should be sent to knit, or sit down to bobbins or bone-lace."--Tatler.
[807] "We destroy the symmetry of the human figure, and foolishly combine to call off the eye from great and real beauties to childish gewgaw ribbands and bone-lace."--Spectator.
[808] It is used in Walpole's New British Traveller. 1784.
[809] Haliwell gives compas as "a circle; Anglo-Norman."
[810] Partlet, a small ruff or neck-band.
[811] "Eidem pro 4 pec' de opera Rhet' bon' florat' in forma oper' sciss' ad 24s., £4 16s."--G. W. A. Eliz., 43 to 44.
1578-79. New Year's Gifts. Baroness Shandowes. "A vail of black network flourished with flowers of silver and a small bone-lace."--Nichols.
[812] Encyclopædia Britannica. Art. Costume. Sixteenth Century.
[813] Encyclopædia Britannica. Art. Costume. Sixteenth century.
[814] Crown lace--so called from the pattern being worked on a succession of crowns sometimes intermixed with acorns or roses. A relic of this lace may still be found in the "faux galon" sold by the German Jews, for the decoration of fancy dresses and theatrical purposes. It is frequently mentioned. We have:--
"12 yards laquei, called crown lace of black gold and silk."--G. W. A. Eliz. 4 & 5.
"18 yards crown lace purled with one wreath on one side."--Ibid. 5 & 6.
[815] "11 virgis laquei Byas."--Ibid. 29 & 30.
[816] Hemming and edging 8 yards of ruff of cambric with white lace called hollow lace, and various entries of Spanish lace, Fringe, Black chain, Diamond, knotted, hollow, and others, are scattered through the earlier Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth.
The accounts of the Keepers of the Great Wardrobe, which we shall have occasion so frequently to cite, are now deposited in the Public Record Office, to which place they were transferred from the Audit Office in 1859. They extend from the 1 Elizabeth = 1558 to Oct. 10, 1781, and comprise 160 volumes, written in Latin until 1730-31, when the account appears in English, and is continued so to the end. 1748-49 is the last account in which the items are given.
[817] Eliz. 30 & 31. Billament lace occurs both in the "shoppes" and inventories of the day. Among the list of foreigners settled in the City of London in 1571 (State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol 84. P.R.O.), are: William Crutall, "useth the craft of making byllament lace"; Rich. Thomas, Dutch, "a worker of Billament lace."
In 1573 a country gentleman, by his will deposited in the Prerogative Court of Canterbury (Brayley and Britton's Graphic Illustrations), bequeaths: "To my son Tyble my short gown faced with wolf skin and laid with Billements lace."
In John Johnston's shop we have: "3 doz. of velvet Billemunt lace, 12s." In that of John Farbeck, 9 yards of the same. (Surtees' Wills and Inv.) Widow Chapman of Newcastle's inventory, 1533, contains: "One old cassock of broad cloth, with billements lace, 10s." (Ibid.)
[818] 95 dozen rich silver double diamond and cross laces occur also in the Extraordinary Expenses for Prince Charles's Journey to Spain. 1623.--P. R. O.
[819] 1571. "In y^e Great Shop, 8 peces of 'waborne' lace, 16d."--Mr. John Wilkinson's Goods, of Newcastle, Merchant.
1580. "100 Gross and a half of 'waborne' lace."--Inv. of Cuthbert Ellyson.
1549. John de Tronch, Abbot of Kilmainham Priory, is condemned to pay 100 marks fine for detaining 2 lbs. of Waborne thread, value 3s., and other articles, the property of W. Sacy.
[820] G. W. A. Eliz. 16 & 17.
[821] "Eidem pro 6 manuterg' de camerick operat' cum serico nigra trustich," etc.--G. W. A. Eliz. 41 & 42, and, again, 44.
[822] 1572. Inventory of Thomas Swinburne of Ealingham, Esq.
"His Apparell."
"A wellwett cote layd with silver las.
"A satten doullet layd with silver las.
"A payr of wellwett sleeves layd with silver las."--Surtees' Wills and Inv.
[823] New Year's Gifts. Lady Mary Sidney. "A smock and two pillow beres of cameryck wrought with black-work and edged with a broad bone-lace of black sylke."
[824] "Eidem pro 6 caules alb' nodat opat' cu' le chainestich et ligat' cu' tape de filo soror, ad 14s., 4l. 4s."--G. W. A. Eliz. 41 & 42.
Also in the last year of her reign (1602) we find:--
"Six fine net caules flourished with chaine stitch with sister's thread."--Wardrobe Accounts. B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
[825] In 1583.
[826] G. W. A. Eliz. 38 & 39. We have it also on ruffs.
"Eidem pro 2 sutes de lez ruffs bon' de la lawne operat' in le laid work et edged cum ten' bon' ad 70s. per pec', 7l."--G. W. A. Eliz. 43 & 44.
[827] G. W. A. Eliz., last year of her reign. Again--
1600. "Drawing and working with black silk drawne worke, five smocks of fine holland cloth."--B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
"These Holland smocks as white as snow, And gorgets brave with drawn-work wrought." --Pleasant Quippes for Upstart Newfangled Gentlewomen. 1596.
[828] As early as 1485 we have in the inventory of St. Mary-at-Hill, "An altar cloth of diaper, garnished with 3 blue Kays (St. Peter's) at each end." All the church linen seems to have been embroidered in blue thread, and so appears to have been the smocks and other linen.
Jenkin, speaking of his sweetheart, says: "She gave me a shirt collar, wrought over with no counterfeit stuff."
GEORGE: "What! was it gold?"
JENKIN: "Nay, 'twas better than gold."
GEORGE: "What was it?"
JENKIN: "Right Coventry blue."--Pinner of Wakefield. 1599.
"It was a simple napkin wrought with Coventry blue."--Laugh and Lie Downe, or the Worlde's Folly. 1605.
"Though he perfume the table with rose cake or appropriate bone-lace and Coventry blue," writes Stephens in his Satirical Essays. 1615.
In the inventory of Mary Stuart, taken at Fotheringay, after her death, we have: "Furniture for a bedd of black velvet, garnished with Bleue lace. In the care of Rallay, alias Beauregard."
This blue lace is still to be found on baptismal garments which have been preserved in old families on the Continent and in England.
[829] The widow of the famous clothier, called Jack of Newbury, is described when a bride as "led to church between two boys with bride laces and rosemary tied about their sleeves."
[830] "Tawdry. As Dr. Henshaw and Skinner suppose, of knots and ribbons, bought at a fair held in St. Audrey's Chapel; fine, without grace or elegance."--Bailey's Dict. 1764.
Southey (Omniana. Vol. i., p. 8) says:--
"It was formerly the custom in England for women to wear a necklace of fine silk called Tawdry lace, from St. Audrey.
"She had in her youth been used to wear carcanets of jewels, and being afterwards tormented with violent pains in the neck, was wont to say, that Heaven, in his mercy, had thus punished her for her love of vanity. She died of a swelling in her neck. Audry (the same as Ethelrede) was daughter of King Anna, who founded the Abbey of Ely."
Spenser in the Shepherd's Calender, has:--
"Bind your fillets faste And gird in your waste For more fineness with a tawdry lace;"
and in the Faithful Shepherdess of Beaumont and Fletcher, Amaryllis speaks of
"The primrose chaplet, tawdry lace and ring."
[831] A passage already quoted in Much Ado about Nothing shows us that, in Shakespeare's time, the term "to lace" was generally used as a verb, denoting to decorate with trimming. Margaret, the tiring woman, describes the Duchess of Milan's gown as of "Cloth o' gold, and cuts, and laced with silver."
[832] Much Ado about Nothing.
[833] New Year's Gifts of Mrs. Wyngfield, Lady Southwell, and Lady Willoughby.--Nichols' Royal Progresses.
[834] "Mrs. Edmonds. A cushion cloth of lawn cutwork like leaves, and a few owes of silver."--New Year's Gifts.
"Eidem pro le edginge unius panni vocat' a quishion cloth de lawne alb' operat' cum spaces de opere sciss' et pro viii. virg' de Laquei alb' lat' operat' sup' oss' 33s. 4d."--G. W. A. Eliz. 31 & 32.
[835] "Mistress Twist, the Court laundress. Four toothcloths of Holland wrought with black silk and edged with bone lace of silver and black silk."--New Year's Gifts.
[836] "Lady Ratcliffe. A night coyf of white cutwork flourished with silver and set with spangles."--Ibid.
[837] "Cropson. A night coyf of cameryk cutwork and spangells, with a forehead cloth, and a night border of cutwork with bone lace."--Ibid. 1577-8.
[838] "Eidem pro emenda[=c] lavacione et starching unius par' corpor' (stays) et manic' de lawne alb' bon' deorsum operat' in diversis locis cum spaciis Lat' de operibus Italic' scis[=s] 20_sh._"--G. W. A. Eliz. 26-27.
[839] Ibid.
[840] Ibid. 28-29.
[841] G. W. A. Eliz. 29-30.
[842] Ibid. 35-36.
[843] Ibid. 43-44. "A round kyrtle of cutwork in lawne."--B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
[844] "One yard of double Italian cutwork a quarter of a yard wide, 55s. 4d."--G. W. A. Eliz. 33 and 34.
"Una virga de opere sciss' lat' de factura Italica, 26s. 8d."--Ibid. 29 & 30.
[845] "For one yard of double Flanders cutwork worked with Italian purl, 33s. 4d."--Ibid. 33 & 34.
[846] "3 suits of good lawn cutwork ruffs edged with good bone lace 'operat' super oss',' at 70s., 10l. 10s."--Ibid. 43 & 44.
[847] "7 virg' Tenie lat' operis acui, ad 6s. 8d., 46s. 8d."--Ibid. 37-38.
[848] "Eidem pro 2 pectoral' de ope' sciss' fact' de Italic' et Flaundr' purle, ad 46s."--Ibid. 42 & 43.
"Eidem pro 1 virg' de Tenie de opere acuo cum le purle Italic' de cons' ope' acuo 20s."--G. W. A. Eliz. 40 & 41.
[849] Eliz. 44 = 1603.
[850] "3 yards broad needlework lace of Italy, with the purls of similar work, at 50s. per yard, 8l. 15s."--Ibid. 41-42.
Bone lace varies in price from 40s. the dozen to 11s. 6d. the yard. Needle-made lace from 6s. 8d. to 50s.--G. W. A. Passim.
[851] Lace is always called "lacqueus" in the Gt. Wardrobe Accounts up to 1595-6, after which it is rendered "tænia." Both terms seem, like our "lace" to have been equally applied to silk passements.
"Galons de soye, de l'espèce qui peuvent être dénominés par le terme latin de 'tæniola.'"
"Laqueus, enlassements de diverses couleurs, galons imitation de ces chaînes qui les Romains faisoient peindre, dorer et argenter, pour les rendre plus supportables aux illustres malheureux que le sort avoit réduit à les porter."--Traité des Marques Nationales. Paris, 1739.
[852] "Fine white or nun's thread is made by the Augustine nuns of Crema," writes Skippin, 1631.
From the Great Wardrobe Accounts the price appears to have been half a crown an ounce.
"Eidem pro 2 li. 4 unc.' fili Sororis, ad 2s. 6d. per unciam, 4l. 10s."--Eliz. 34 & 35.
[853] State Papers Domestic. Eliz. Vol. 84. The sum total amounts to 4,287.
[854] See BURGUNDY. "The naturalized French residing in this country are Normans of the district of Caux, a wicked sort of French, worse than all the English," writes, in 1553, Stephen Porlin, a French ecclesiastic, in his Description of England and Scotland.
[855] 1559. Oct. 20. Proclamation against excess of apparel.--State Papers Dom. Eliz. Vol. vii.
1566. Feb. 12.--Ibid. Vol. xxxix.
1579. Star Chamber on apparel.
[856] State Papers Dom. Eliz. Vol. xxiii. No. 8.
[857] Ibid. Vol. xlvii. No. 49.
[858] Ibid. Vol. viii. No. 31.
[859] The value of thread imported amounts to £13,671 13s. 4d.
[860] Walsingham writes: In opening a coffer of the Queen of Scots, he found certain heades which so pleased certain ladies of his acquaintance, he had taken the liberty to detain a couple.
[861] "A mantel of lawn cutwork wrought throughout with cutwork of 'pomegranettes, roses, honeysuckles, cum crowns.'"
"A doublet of lawn cutwork worked with 'lez rolls and true loves,' &c."--G. W. A. Eliz. Last year.
[862] New Year's Gifts. By the Lady Shandowes. 1577-8.
[863] Marquis of Northampton.
[864] Lady Carew. "A cushyn of fine cameryk edged with bone lace of Venice sylver."
[865] "Laqueus de serico Jeano"--(Genoa). G. W. A. Eliz. 30-1.
[866] 1571. Revels at Court. Cunningham.
Some curious entries occur on the occasion of a Masque called "The Prince" given at court in 1600:--
"For the tooth-drawer:
"To loope leace for his doublet and cassacke, 8s.
"For leace for the corne-cutters suite, 7s.
"For green leace for the tinkers suite, 2s.
"For the mouse-trapp-man:
"6 yards of copper leace to leace is cloake, at 1s. 8d., 10s.
"The Prophet merely wears fringe, 2 Ruffes and cuffes, 3s. 10d."
The subject of the Masque seems lost to posterity.
[867] Lady Chandos, jun. "A cushyn cloth of lawne, wrought with white worke of branches and trees edged with white bone worke wrought with crownes."--New Year's Gifts. 1577-8.
[868] 1572. Revels at Court.
[869] In the possession of Mrs. Evans of Wimbledon.
[870] Sir Gawine Carew. "A smock of cameryke wrought with black work and edged with bone lace of gold."
Lady Souche. "A smock of cameryke, the ruffs and collar edged with a bone lace of gold."
The Lady Marquis of Winchester. "A smock of cameryke wrought with tanny silk and black, the ruffs and collar edged with a bone lace of silver."--New Year's Gifts. 1578-9.
[871] "A bearing cloth," for the Squire's child, is mentioned in the Winter's Tale.
[872] Many of these Christening robes of lace and point are preserved as heirlooms in old families; some are of old guipure, others of Flanders lace, and later of Valenciennes, or needle-point. The bib formed of guipure padded, with tiny mittens of lace, were also furnished to complete the suit.
[873] In 1584-5 Queen Elizabeth sends a most wonderful apron to be washed and starched, of cambric, edged with lace of gold, silver, and in-grain carnation silk, "operat' super oss'," with "pearl buttons pro ornatione dict' apron."--G. W. A. Eliz. 26 & 27.
"A handkerchief she had, All wrought with silke and gold, Which she, to stay her trickling tears, Before her eyes did hold." --"Ballad of George Barwell."
[875] New Year's Gift of Lady Radcliffe. 1561.
[876] New Year's Gift of Lady St. Lawrence.
[877] Surtees' Wills and Inv. "Though the luxury of the court was excessive, the nation at large were frugal in their habits. Our Argentine of Dorset was called 'Argentine the Golden,' in consequence of his buckles, tags, and laces being of gold. Such an extravagance being looked on as a marvel in the remote hamlets of the southern counties."
[878] Hence ruffles, diminutive of ruffs. "Ruff cuffs" they are called in the G. W. A. of James I., 11 & 12.
[879] Stowe's Chron.
[880] Endless are the entries in the Gt. W. Acc. for washing, starching and mending. The court laundress can have had no sinecure. We find "le Jup de lawne operat' cum stellis et aristis tritici Anglice wheateares" (Eliz. 42 & 43), sent to be washed, starched, etc. A network vail "sciss' totum desuper cum ragged staves." (Leicester's device. Ibid. 29 & 30.) A diploid' (doublet) of cut-work flourished "cum auro et spangles" (Ibid.), and more wonderful still, in the last year of her reign she has washed and starched a toga "cum traine de la lawne operat' in auro et argento in forma caudarum pavorum," the identical dress in which she is portrayed in one of her portraits.
[881] "Eidem pro un ruff bon pynned sup' le wier Franc' c[=u] rhet' aur' spangled, 70s."--Eliz. 42 & 43.
[882] Gt. W. Acc. Eliz. 33 & 34.
[883] "B.: Where's my ruff and poker?"
"R.: There's your ruff, shall I poke it?"
"B.: So poke my ruff now."--Old Play by P. Dekker. 1602.
Autolycus, among his wares, has "poking-sticks of steel."
"Poked her rebatoes and surveryed her steel."--Law Tricks. 1608.
[884] Middleton's Comedy of Blurt, Master Constable.
[885] Or, the World's Folly. 1605.
[886] Stowe.
[887] Ibid.
[888] Therefore she wore "chin" ruffs.
"Eidem pro 2 sutes de lez chinne ruffs edged cu' arg., 10s."--Eliz. 42 & 43.
[889] Ben Jonson. Every Man Out of His Humour. 1599.
[890] Lady Cromwell. "Three sutes of ruffs of white cutwork edged with a passamayne of white."
Lady Mary Se'm'. "3 ruffs of lawne cutwork of flowers."
[891] "They are either clogged with gold, silver, or silk laces of stately price, wrought all over with needleworke, speckeled and sparkeled here and there with the sunne, the moone, the starres and many other antiques strange to beholde. Some are wrought with open worke donne to the midst of the ruffe, and further some with close worke, some with purled lace so closed and other gewgawes so pestered, as the ruff is the leest parte of itself."--Stubbe's Description of the Cut-work Ruff.
[892] Anatomie of Abuses. 1583.
[893] "Eidem pro 3 dozin laquei fact' de crine brayded cum lez rising puffs de crine, ad 36s. le dd., £5 8s."--Eliz. 31 & 32.
The entry occurs frequently.
In Ibid. 87 & 38 is a charge "pro 4 pirrywigges de crine," at 16s. 8d. each.
[894] In the G. W. A. of the last year of her reign, Elizabeth had a variety of devices in false hair. We have:--
"Eidem pro 200 invencionibus factis decrine in forma lez lowpes et tuftes," at 6d. each; the like number in the form of leaves at 12d.; 12 in form of "lez Peramides," at 3s. 4d.; 24 of Globes, at 12d., with hair by the yard, made in lowpes, "crispat' curiose fact'," curle rotund', and other wonderful "inventions."
[895] "Your trebble-quadruple Dædalian ruffes, nor your stiffe necked Rebatoes that have more arches for pride to row under than can stand under five London Bridges."--The Gul's Hornebooke, by T. Deckar. London, 1609.
[896] Beaumont and Fletcher. Nice Valour.
[897] Ibid. The Blind Lady. 1661.
[898] 1641.
[899] Called by James I. "the King of Preachers." Ob. 1621
[900] In the Dumb Knight, 1608, a woman, speaking of her ruff, says:--
"This is but shallow. I have a ruff is a quarter deep, measured by the yard."
[901] See the portraits in the National Portrait Gallery of Sir Dudley and Lady Carleton, by Cornelius Janssens, of the Queen of Bohemia, by Mirevelt, and of the Countess of Pembroke, by Mark Geerards. In Westminster Abbey, the effigies of Queen Elizabeth and Mary Queen of Scots, on their tombs.
[902] Every Man Out of His Humour, 1599.
Again, in his Silent Woman, he says:--
"She must have that Rich gown for such a great day, a new one For the next, a richer for the third; have the chamber filled with A succession of grooms, footmen, ushers, And other messengers; besides embroiderers, Jewellers, tire-women, semsters, feather men, Perfumers; whilst she feels not how the land Drops away, nor the acres melt; nor foresees The change, when the mercer has your woods For her velvets; never weighs what her pride Costs, Sir."
[903] "Second Acc. of Sir John Villiers, 1617-8." P. R. O.
"150 yards of fyne bone lace for six extraordinary ruff's provided against his Majesty's marriage, at 9s., 67s. 10d."--Extraordinary Expenses. 1622-6. P. R. O.
[904] State Papers Dom., Jac. I. Vol. iii., No. 89. P. R. O.
[905] Jasper Mayne. 1670.
[906] "Mistris Turner, the first inventresse of yellow starch, was executed in a cobweb lawn ruff of that color at Tyburn, and with her I believe that yellow starch, which so much disfigured our nation and rendred them so ridiculous and fantastic, will receive its funerall."--Howel's Letters. 1645.
[907] State Papers Dom., James I. Vol. cxiii. No. 18.
[908] We read that in 1574 the Venetian ladies dyed their lace the colour of saffron. The fashion may therefore be derived from them.
"He is of England, by his yellow band."--Notes from Black Fryers. Henry Fitzgeffery. 1617.
"Now ten or twenty eggs will hardly suffice to starch one of these yellow bandes."--Barnaby Rich. The Irish Hubbub, or the English Hue and Cry. 1622.
Killigrew, in his play called The Parson's Wedding, published in 1664, alludes to the time when "yellow starch and wheel verdingales were cried down"; and in The Blind Lady, a play printed in 1661, a serving-man says to the maid: "You had once better opinion of me, though now you wash every day your best handkerchief in yellow starch."
[909] La Courtisane à la Mode, selon l'Usage de la Cour de ce Temps. Paris, 1625.
[910] Carlo, in Every Man Out of His Humour. 1599.
[911] "Eidem pro 29 virg' le opere sciss' bon' Italic', ad 35s., £68 5s."--Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 5 & 6.
[912] The New Inn.
[913] Advice to Sir George Villiers.
[914] See Parliamentary History of England.
Sir Giles was proceeded against as "a monopolist and patentee," and sentenced to be degraded and banished for life.
[915] Speech in Parliament. Rushout Papers. Vol. xi., p. 916.
[916] "The office or grant for sealing bone lace was quashed by the King's proclamation, 1639, dated from his manour of York."--Verney Papers.
[917] B. M. Bib. Lands. 172, No. 59.
[918] 1604. Sept. 27. Patent to Ric. Dike and others to make Venice gold and silver thread for 21 years.--State Papers Dom., Jas. I. Vol. ix. 48.
1604. Dec. 30. Lease of the customs on gold and silver thread.--Ibid. Vol. x.
1605. Feb. 2. The same. Ibid. Vol. xii.
1611. May 21. Patent to Ric. Dike renewed.--Ibid. Vol. lxiii. 9.
In the same year (June 30) we find a re-grant to the Earl of Suffolk of the moiety of all seizures of Venice gold and silver formerly granted in the fifth year of the King.--Ibid. Vol. lxiv. 66.
In 1622 a lease on the customs on gold and silver thread lace is given to Sir Edward Villiers.--Ibid. Vol. cxxxii. 34.
[919] Ibid. Vol. cxxi. 64.
[920] Ibid. Vol. cxxxii. 34.
[921] In 1624 King James renews his prohibition against the manufacture of "gold purles," as tending to the consumption of the coin and bullion of the kingdom.--Foedera, Vol. xvii., p. 605.
[922] Petition. April 8, 1623.--State Papers, Vol. cxlii. 44. See Chap. xxx.
[923] "Twoe payer of hande rebayters," i.e., cuffs.
[924] In the P. R. O. (State Papers Dom., James I. 1603, Sept. Vol. iii. No. 89) is "A Memorandum of that Misteris Jane Dru[=m]onde her recyte from Ester Littellye, the furnishinge of her Majesties Linen Cloth," a long account, in which, among numerous other entries, we find:--
"It. at Basinge. Twenty four yeardes of small nidle work, at 6s. the yearde, £7 4s.
"More at Basinge. One ruffe cloth, cumbinge cloth and apron all shewed with white worke, at 50s. the piece, £7 10s.
"It. one pece of fine lawin to bee a ruffe, £5.
"Item, for 18 yeards of fine lace to shewe the ruffe, at 6s. the yearde, £5 8s.
"Item, 68 purle of fair needlework, at 20 pence the purle, £5 15s. 4d.
"Item, at Winchester, the 28th of September, one piece of cambrick, £4.
"Item, for 6 yards of fine purle, at 20s., £6.
"Item, for 4 yards of great bone lace, at 9s. the yard, 36s.
Queen Anne has also a fair wrought sark costing £6, and a cut-work handkerchief, £12, and 2 pieces of cut-work, ell wide and 2 yards long, at £2. the length, etc.
[925] Lady Audrye Walsingham's Account. 1606.--P. R. O.
[926] Mary, her third daughter, died 1607, not two years of age. Mrs. Greene quotes from the P. R. O. a note of the "necessaries to be provided for the child," among which are six large cambric handkerchiefs, whereof one is to be edged with "fair cut-work to lay over the child's face"; six veils of lawn, edged with fair bone lace; six "gathered bibs of fine lawn with ruffles edged with bone lace," etc. The total value of the lace and cambric required for the infant's garments is estimated at £300.--Lives of the Princesses of England. Vol. vi., p. 90.
[927] England is rich in monumental effigies decorated with lace--too many to enumerate. Among them we would instance that of Alice, Countess of Derby, died 1636, in Harefield Church, Middlesex, in which the lace is very carefully sculptured.--Communicated by Mr. Albert Hartshorne.
[928] 1620-1. We have entries of "falling bands" of good cambric, edged with beautiful bone lace, two dozen stitched and shagged, and cut-work nightcaps, purchased for James I., in the same account, with 28s. for "one load of hay to stuff the woolsacks for the Parliament House."--G. W. Acc. Jac. I. 18 to 19.
In the same year, 1620, an English company exported a large quantity of gold and silver lace to India for the King of Golconda.
[929] Malcontent. 1600.
[930] Extraordinary expenses, 1622-26. P. R. O.
[931] "2nd Acc. of Sir J. Villiers. 1617-18." P. R. O.
[932] Gt. W. A. Jac. I. 6 to 7.
[933] Taylor. 1640:--
"The beau would feign sickness To show his nightcap fine, And his wrought pillow overspread with lawn."--Davies. Epigrams.
[934] "Acc. of Sir Lyonell Cranfield (now Earl of Middlesex), late Master of the Great Wardrobe, touching the funeral of Queen Anne, who died 2nd March, 1618 (i.e. 1619 N. S.). P. R. O.
[935] About this time a complaint is made by the London tradesmen, of the influx of refugee artizans, "who keepe theire misteries to themselves, which hath made them bould of late to device engines for workinge lace, &c., and such wherein one man doth more among them than seven Englishmen can doe, soe as theire cheape sale of those commodities beggareth all our English artificers of that trade and enricheth them," which becomes "scarce tolleruble," they conclude. Cecil, in consequence, orders a census to be made in 1621. Among the traders appears "one satten lace maker."
Colchester is bitterly irate against the Dutch strangers, and complains of one "Jonas Snav, a Bay and Say maker, whose wife selleth blacke, browne, and white thredde, and all sorts of bone lace and vatuegardes, which they receive out of Holland. One Isaac Bowman, an Alyen born, a chirurgeon and merchant, selleth hoppes, bone lace, and such like, to the great grievance of the free burgesses."
A nest of refugee lace-makers, "who came out of France by reason of the late 'trobles' yet continuing," were congregated at Dover (1621-2). A list of about five-and-twenty "widows, being makers of Bone lace," is given, and then Mary Tanyer and Margarett Le Moyne, "maydens and makers of bone lace," wind up the catalogue of the Dover "Alyens."
The Maidstone authorities complain that the thread-makers' trade is much decayed by the importation of thread from Flanders.--List of Foreign Protestants resident in England. 1618-88. Printed by the Camden Society.
[936] Jasper Mayne.
[937] Beaumont and Fletcher.
[938] "Valuables of Glenurquhy, 1640." Innes' Sketches of Early Scotch History.
[939] Collars of Hollie worke appear in the Inventories of Mary Stuart.
[940] "Thomas Hodges, for making ruffe and cuffes for his Highness of cuttworke edged with a fayre peake purle, £7."--2nd Account of Sir J. Villiers. Prince Charles. 1617-18. P. R. O.
"40 yards broad peaked lace to edge 6 cupboard cloths, at 4s. a yard, £8."--Ibid.
[941] "Seaming" lace and spacing lace appear to have been generally used at this period to unite the breadths of linen, instead of a seam sewed. We find them employed for cupboard cloths, cushion cloths, sheets, shirts, etc., throughout the accounts of King James and Prince Charles.
"At Stratford-upon-Avon is preserved, in the room where Shakspeare's wife, Anne Hathaway, was born, an oaken linen chest, containing a pillow-case and a very large sheet made of homespun linen. Down the middle of the sheet is an ornamental open or cut-work insertion, about an inch and a half deep, and the pillow-case is similarly ornamented. They are marked E. H., and have always been used by the Hathaway family on special occasions, such as births, deaths, and marriages. This is still a common custom in Warwickshire; and many families can proudly show embroidered bed linen, which has been used on state occasions, and carefully preserved in old carved chests for three centuries and more."--A Shakspeare Memorial. 1864.
[942] The Truth of the Times. W. Peacham. 1638.
[943] State Papers Dom. Jas. I. Vol. lxxii. No. 28.
[944] Warrant on the Great Wardrobe. 1612-13. Princess Elizabeth's marriage.
[945] Frankfort fair, at which most of the German princes made their purchases.
[946] German Correspondence. 1614-15.--P. R. O.
We find among the accounts of Col. Schomberg and others:--
"To a merchant of Strasbourg, for laces which she had sent from Italy, 288 rix-dollars." And, in addition to numerous entries of silver and other laces:--
"Pour dentelle et linge karé pour Madame, 115 florins."
"Donné Madame de Caus pour des mouchoirs à point couppée pour Madame, £4."
"Une petite dentelle à point couppé, £3," etc.
Point coupé handkerchiefs seem to have been greatly in fashion. Ben Jonson, "Bartholomew Fair," 1614, mentions them:--
"A cut-work handkerchief she gave me."
[947] See Snelling's Coins. Pl. ix. 8, 9, 10.
[948] Ibid. Pl. ix. 5, 6, 11.
[949] Evelyn, describing a medal of King Charles I., struck in 1633, says he wears "a falling band, which new mode succeeded the cumbersome ruff; but neither did the bishops or the judges give it up so soon, the Lord Keeper Finch being, I think, the very first."
[950] In 1633, the bills having risen to £1,500 a year, a project is made for reducing the charge for the King's fine linen and bone lace, "for his body," again to £1,000 per annum, for which sum it "may be very well done."--State Papers, Chas. I. Vol. ccxxxiv. No. 83.
[951] "Paid to Smith Wilkinson, for 420 yards of good Flanders bone lace for 12 day ruffes and 6 night ruffes 'cum cuffes eisdem,' £87 15s.
"For 6 falling bands made of good broad Flanders lace and Cuttworks with cuffs of the same, £52 16s."--Gt. W. A. Car. I. 6 = 1631.
[952] See G. W. A., Mich., 1629, to April, 1630.
[953] Twelfth-Night.
[954] G. W. A. Car. I. The Annunciation 9 to Mich. 11.
[955] Ibid. 8 and 9.
[956] State Papers Dom. Charles I. Vol. cxlix. No. 31.
[957] In a letter to Mr. Edward Nicholas, Sec. of the Admiralty, March 7th, 1627 (afterwards Sec. of State to Chas. II.).--St. P. D. Chas. I. Vol. cxxiii. 62.
Among the State Papers (Vol. cxxvi. 70), is a letter from Susan Nicholas to her "loveing Brother," 1628. About lace for his band, she writes: "I have sent you your bootehose and could have sent your lase for your band, but that I did see these lasees which to my thought did do a greddeale better then that wh you did bespeake, and the best of them will cost no more then that which is half a crowne a yard, and so the uppermost will cost you, and the other will cost 18 pence; I did thinke you would rather staye something long for it then to pay so deare for that wh would make no better show; if you like either of these, you shall have it sone desptch, for I am promise to have it made in a fortnight. I have received the monie from my cousson Hunton. Heare is no news to wright of. Thus with my best love remembred unto you, I rest your very loving sister,
"SUSANNE NICHOLAS.
"I have sent ye the lase ye foyrst bespoke, to compare them together, to see which ye like best."
[958] In 1620 an English company exported a large quantity of gold and silver lace to India for the King of Golconda.
[959] W. Peacham, Truth of the Times. 1638.
Hamlet says there are
"Two Provençal roses on my regal shoes."
"When roses in the gardens grow, And not in ribbons on a shoe; Now ribbon-roses take such place, That garden roses want their grace." --"Friar Bacon's Prophesie." 1604. "I like," says Evelyn, "the boucle better than the formal rose."--Tyrannus, or the Mode.
[960] This proclamation is dated from "our Honour of Hampton Court, 30th April, 1635."--Rymer's Foedera. T. 19, p. 690.
[961] When Anne of Austria was suspected of secret correspondence with Spain and England, Richelieu sent the Chancellor to question the Abbess of the Val-de-Grâce with respect to the casket which had been secretly brought into the monastery. The Abbess (Vie de la Mère d'Arbouse) declared that this same casket came from the Queen of England, and that it only contained lace, ribbons, and other trimmings of English fashion, sent by Henrietta Maria as a present to the Queen.--Galerie de l'Ancienne Cour. 1791.
[962] State Papers Dom. Vol. cxxiii. No. 65.
[963] "Rhodon and Iris, a Pastoral." 1631.
[964] "Ornatus Muliebris Anglicanus." 1645.
[965] "You must to the Pawn (Exchange) to buy lawn, to St. Martin for lace."--Westward Ho. 1607.
"A copper lace called St. Martin's lace."--Strype.
[966] Taylor, "Whip of Pride." 1640.
[967] In Eastward Ho, 1605, proud Gertrude says: "Smocks of three pound a smock, are to be born with all."
[968] "Bartholomew Fair." 1614.
"She shewed me gowns and head tires, Embroidered waistcoats, smocks seam'd thro' with cut-works." --Beaumont and Fletcher, "Four Plays in One." 1647.
"Who would ha' thought a woman so well harness'd, Or rather well caparison'd, indeed, That wears such petticoats, and lace to her smocks, Broad seaming laces." --Ben Jonson, The Devil is an Ass. 1616.
[971] A suite of russet "laced all over with silver curle lace."--"Expenses of Robt. Sidney, Earl of Leicester. Temp. Chas. I."
"This comes of wearing Scarlet, gold lace and cut-works; your fine gartering With your blown roses." --The Devil is an Ass.
[973] Notes from Black Fryers.
[974] Jasper Mayne. "Amorous War." 1659.
[975] "The Little French Lawyer."
[976] Memoirs.
[977] The Cromwell Family.
[978] Sir Philip Warwick. 1640.
[979] At the Restoration, it was removed from the Abbey and hung out of the window at Whitehall, and then broken up and destroyed.
[980] 1661, Nov. 20. State Papers. Dom. Charles II. Vol. xliv. P. R. O.
[981] "To William Briers, for making the Colobium Sindonis of fine lawn laced with fine Flanders lace, 33s. 4d.
"To Valentine Stucky, for 14 yards and a half of very fine Flanders lace for the same, at 18s. per yard, £12 6s. 6d."--"Acc. of the E. of Sandwich, Master of the G. W. for the Coronation of King Charles II. 23 April, 1661." P. R. O.
[982] In the G. W. A. for 29 and 30 occurs a curious entry by the Master of the Great Wardrobe:--"I doe hereby charge myself with 5,000 Livres by me received in the realm of France for gold and silver fringes by me there sold, belon^g to a rich embroidered Bed of his said Majesty, which at one shilling and sevenpence [per] lib. English. Being the value of the Exchange at that time, amounts to £395 16s. 8d.
"(Signed) R. MONTAGUE. "May 28, 1678."
[983] 14 Car. II. c. 13. Statutes at large. The Acts of Charles II. date from the death of his father; so the year of the Restoration, 1660, is counted as the thirteenth of his reign.
[984] 1662. State Papers Dom. Charles II. Vol. lv., No. 25. P. R. O.
[985] He pays £194 to his Laceman (Tenentori) for 3 Cravats "de poynt de Venez," and 24s. per yard for 57 yards of narrow point "teniæ poynt augustæ," to trim his falling ruffles, "manicis cadentibus," etc.--G. W. A. Car. II. 24 and 25.
Later (1676-7) we find charged for "un par manicarum, le poynt, £14."
[986] When it was replaced by a black ribbon and a bow.
[987] London, 1680.
[988] Authors, however, disagree like the rest of the world. In a tract called The Ancient Trades Decayed Repaired Again, by Sir Roger L'Estrange (1678), we read: "Nay, if the materials used in a trade be not of the growth of England, yet, if the trade be to employ the poor, we should have it bought without money, and brought to us from beyond the seas where it is made as 'Bone lace.'"
[989] Swift. Baucis and Philemon.
[990] Intelligencer, 1665, June 5. "Lost, six handkerchers wrapt up in a brown paper, two laced, one point-laced set on tiffany; the two laced ones had been worn, the other four new."
London Gazette. 1672, Dec. 5-9. "Lost, a lawn pocket handkercher with a broad hem, laced round with a fine Point lace about four fingers broad, marked with an R in red silk."
[991] Evelyn. It was the custom, at a Maiden Assize, to present the judge with a pair of "laced gloves." Lord Campbell in 1856, at the Lincoln Lent Assizes, received from the sheriff a pair of white gloves richly trimmed with Brussels lace and embroidered, the city arms embossed in frosted silver on the back.
[992] London Gazette. 1677, Jan. 28-31. Again, Oct. 4-8, in the same year. "Stolen or lost out of the Petworth waggon, a deal box directed to the Lady Young of Burton in Sussex; there was in it a fine Point Apron, a suit of thin laced Night clothes," etc.
[993] London Gazette. 1675, June 14-17. "A right Point lace with a long musling neck laced at the ends with a narrow Point about three fingers broad, and a pair of Point cuffs of the same, worn foul and never washt, was lost on Monday last."
Ibid. 1677, Oct. 22-25. "Found in a ditch, Four laced forehead cloths. One laced Pinner, one laced Quoif, one pair of laced ruffels.... Two point aprons and other laced linen."
Intelligencer. 1664, Oct. 3. "Lost, A needle work point without a border, with a great part of the loups cut out, and a quarter of it new loupt with the needle. £5 reward."
[994] London Gazette. 1677, Oct. 8-11.
[995] Tyrannus, or the Mode. 1661.
[996] It is written Colberteen, Colbertain, Golbertain, Colbertine.
[997] Colberteen, a lace resembling network, being of the manufacture of M. Colbert, a French statesman.
[998] A writer in Notes and Queries says: "I recollect this lace worn as a ruffle fifty years ago. The ground was square and coarse, it had a fine edge, with a round mesh, on which the pattern was woven. It was an inferior lace and in every-day wear."
[999] Cadenus and Vanessa. See also Young, p. 111.
[1000] Way of the World.
[1001] Six Weeks in France. 1691.
[1002] Gt. W. A. Car. II. 35-36 = 1683-4.
[1003] Gazette, July 20, 1682. Lost, a portmanteau full of women's clothes, among which are enumerated "two pairs of Point d'Espagne ruffles, a laced night rail and waistcoat, a pair of Point de Venise ruffles, a black laced scarf," etc.--Malcolm's Anecdotes of London.
The lace of James II.'s cravats and ruffles are of point de Venise.
Sex prælant cravatts de lacinia Venetiarum, are charged £141, and 9 yards lace, for six more cravats, £45.
£36 10s. for the cravat of Venice lace to wear on the day of his Coronation," etc.--G. W. A. Jac. II. 1685-6.
[1004] A writer in the Gentleman's Magazine, (October, 1745), mentions: "In the parlour of the monastery of English Benedictines at Paris, I was shown the mask of the king's face, taken off immediately after he was dead, together with the fine laced nightcap he died in." The cap at Dunkirk is trimmed with Flemish lace (old Mechlin). It must have passed from Paris to the convent of English Benedictines at Dunkirk, who left that city in 1793. There is no record how it became deposited in the Museum.--Communicated by M. de Forçade, Conservator of the Museu la Dunkirk.
[1005] 9 & 10 Will. III. = 1697-8.
[1006] 11 & 12 Will. III. = 1698-9.
[1007] Smith's Wealth of Nations.
[1008] See LOUIS XIV.
[1009] See LOUIS XIV.
[1010] Spectator, No. 129. 1711.
"Lost, from behind a Hackney coach, Lombard Street, a grounded lace night rail."--London Gazette. Aug. 8, 1695.
"Lost, two loopt lace Pinners and a pair of double laced ruffles, bundled up together."--Ibid. Jan. 6-10, 1697.
"Taken out of two boxes in Mr. Drouth's waggon ... six cards of piece lace looped and purled, scolopt heads to most of them ... a fine Flanders lace head and ruffles, groundwork set on a wier," etc.--Ibid. April 11-14, 1698.
"Furbelows are not confined to scarfs, but, they must have furbelow'd gowns, and furbelow'd petticoats, and furbelow'd aprons; and, as I have heard, furbelow'd smocks too."--Pleasant Art of Money-catching. 1730.
[1011] B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
[1012] "Bought of John Bishop & Jer. Peirie, att y^e Golden Ball, in Ludgate Hill, 26 April, 1693:
"3 yards ½ of Rich silver rufl'd scollop lace falbala, with a Rich broad silver Tire Orris at the head, at 7s. 3d. a yard, £25 0s. 6d.
"8 yards of broad scollopped thread lace, at 25s.
"3 yards Rich Paigning (?) Lace, 48s. 8d., £8 14s."
[1013] "9 ½ Fine purle to set on the pinner, at 3s."
[1014] "5 ¾ of fine broad cattgutt border, at 20_s_."
[1015] "1 yard 7/16 Raised Point to put on the top of a pair of sleeves, at 30s."
[1016] "8 yards of Broad Needlework Lace, at 30s."
[1017] "3 yards of lace to Mazzarine y^e pinners, at 25s."
Probably the same as the French "campanner."
[1018] The Milliner, in Shadwell's Bury Fair. 1720.
[1019] G. W. A. Will. III. 1688 to 1702. P. R. O.
[1020] Ibid. vii. & viii.
[1021] "I hope your Lordship is pleased with your Steinkerk."--Sir John Vanbrugh. The Relapse.
In Colley Cibber's Careless Husband, Lady Easy takes the Steinkirk off her neck and lays it on Sir Charles's head when he is asleep.
In Love's Last Shift, by the same author (1695), the hero speaks of being "Strangled in my own Steinkerk."
In Love for Love, by Congreve, Sir Novelty enumerates the Steinkirk, the large button, with other fashions, as created by him.
"I have heard the Steinkirk arrived but two months ago."--Spectator, No. 129.
The "modish spark" wears "a huge Steinkirk, twisted, to the waist."--1694. Prologue to First Part of Don Quixote.
Frank Osbaldeston, in Rob Roy, is deprived by the Highlanders of his cravat, "a Steinkirke richly laced."
At Ham House was the portrait of a Countess of Dysart, temp. Anne, in three-cornered cocked hat, long coat, flapped waistcoat, and Mechlin Steinkirk.
In the Account Book of Isabella, Duchess of Grafton, daughter of Lord Arlington, Evelyn's "sweet child"--her portrait hangs in Queen Mary's Room, Hampton Court--we have: "1709. To a Stinkirk, £1 12s. 3d."
They appear to have been made of other stuffs than lace, for in the same account, 1708, we have entered: "To a green Steenkirk, £1 1s. 6d."
[1022] The Volunteers, or the Stock Jobbers.
[1023] "The Tombs in Westminster Abbey," sung by the Brothers Popplewell. Broadside, 1775.--B. M. Roxburgh Coll.
[1024] King Charles II.'s lace is the same as that of Queen Mary. The Duchess of Buckingham (the "mad" Duchess, daughter of James II.) has also very fine raised lace.
[1025] Venice, Bib. St. Mark. Contarini Miscellany. Communicated by Mr. Rawdon Brown.
[1026] Weekly Journal. March, 1717.
[1027] The Modern Warrior. 1756.
[1028] Acc. of Ralph, Earl of Montague, Master of the G. W., touching the Funeral of William III. and Coronation of Queen Anne. P. R. O.
[1029] Statutes at large.--Anne 5 & 6.
[1030] This edict greatly injured the lace trade of France. In the Atlas Maritime et Commercial of 1727, it states: "I might mention several other articles of French manufacture which, for want of a market in England where their chief consumption was, are so much decayed and in a manner quite sunk. I mean as to exportation, the English having now set up the same among themselves, such as bone lace."
[1031] History of Trade. London, 1702.
[1032] "Pro 14 virgis lautæ Fimbr' Bruxell' laciniæ et 12 virgis dict' laciniæ pro Reginæ persona, £151."--G. W. A. 1710-11.
[1033] Letters of the Countess of Hartford to the Countess of Pomfret. 1740.
[1034] Memoirs of Lady R. Russell.
"My high commode, my damask gown, My laced shoes of Spanish leather." --D'Urfey. The Young Maid's Portion.
[1036] No. 98. 1711.
[1037] After fifteen years' discontinuance it shot up again. Swift, on meeting the Duchess of Grafton, dining at Sir Thomas Hanmer's, thus attired, declared she "looked like a mad woman."
[1038] Statutes at large.
[1039] In 1712 Mrs. Beale had stolen from her "a green silk knit waistcoat with gold and silver flowers all over it, and about 14 yards of gold and silver thick lace on it"; while another lady was robbed of a scarlet cloth coat so overlaid with the same lace, it might have been of any other colour.--Malcolm's Anecdotes of the Manners and Customs of London in the Eighteenth Century.
[1040] Post Boy. Nov. 15, 1709. Articles Lost.
[1041] A Discourse on Trade, by John Cary, merchant of Bristol. 1717.
Again: "What injury was done by the Act 9-10 Will. III. for the more effectual preventing of importation of foreign bone lace, doth sufficiently appear by the preamble to that made 10-12 of the same reign for repealing it three months after the prohibition of our woollen manufactures in Flanders (which was occasioned by it) should be taken off; but I don't understand it be yet done, and it may prove an inevitable loss to the nation."
[1042] Lover. No. 10. 1714.
[1043] The ornamental ribbons worn about the dress: "His dress has bows, and fine fallals."--Evelyn. Sometimes the term appears applied to the Fontanges or Commode. We read (1691) of "her three-storied Fladdal."
[1044] Tunbridge Wells. 1727.
[1045] In The Recruiting Officer (1781), Lucy the maid says: "Indeed, Madam the last bribe I had from the Captain was only a small piece of Flanders lace for a cap." Melinda answers: "Ay, Flanders lace is a constant present from officers.... They every year bring over a cargo of lace, to cheat the king of his duty and his subjects of their honesty." Again, Silvio, in the bill of costs he sends in to the widow Zelinda, at the termination of his unsuccessful suit, makes a charge for "a piece of Flanders lace" to Mrs. Abigail, her woman.--Addison, in Guardian, No. 17. 1713.
[1046] "In the next reign, George III. and Queen Charlotte often condescended to become sponsors to the children of the aristocracy. To one child their presence was fatal. In 1778 they 'stood' to the infant daughter of the last Duke and Duchess of Chandos. Cornwallis, Archbishop of Canterbury, officiated. The baby, overwhelmed by whole mountains of lace, lay in a dead faint. Her mother was so tender on the point of etiquette, that she would not let the little incident trouble a ceremony at which a king and queen were about to endow her child with the names of Georgiana Charlotte. As Cornwallis gave back the infant to her nurse, he remarked that it was the quietest baby he had ever held. Poor victim of ceremony! It was not quite dead, but dying; in a few unconscious hours it calmly slept away."--"A Gossip on Royal Christenings." Cornhill Magazine. April, 1864.
[1047] "Furniture of a Woman's Mind."
[1048] "Dean Swift to a Young Lady."
[1049] Cowley.
[1050] 1731. Simile for the Ladies, alluding to the laces worn at the last Birthday and not paid for.
"In Evening fair you may behold The Clouds are fringed with borrowed gold, And this is many a lady's case Who flaunts about in borrowed lace."
[1051] Jenyns. "The Modern Fine Lady."
[1052] Crown. Sir Courtly Nice, or It Cannot Be, a Comedy. 1731.
[1053] "1748. Ruffles of twelve pounds a yard."--Apology for Mrs. T. C. Philips. 1748.
Lace, however, might be had at a more reasonable rate:--
"'I have a fine lac'd suit of pinners,' says Mrs. Thomas, 'that was my great-grandmother's! that has been worn but twice these forty years, and my mother told me cost almost four pounds when it was new, and reaches down hither.'"--"Miss Lucy in Town." Fielding.
[1054] Dictionary of Commerce. 1766.
[1055] He was a martinet about his own dress, for his biographer relates during the last illness of Queen Caroline (1737), though the King was "visibly affected," remembering he had to meet the foreign ministers next day, he gave particular directions to his pages "to see that new ruffles were sewn on his old shirt sleeves, whereby he might wear a decent air in the eyes of the representatives of foreign majesty."
[1056] "By a list of linen furnished to the Princesses Louisa and Mary, we find their night-dresses were trimmed with lace at 10s. per yard, and while their Royal Highnesses were in bibs, they had six suits of broad lace for aprons at from £50 to £60 each suit."--Corr. of the Countess of Suffolk, Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Caroline.
Observe also the lace-trimmed aprons, ruffles, tuckers, etc., in the pretty picture of the family of Frederick, Prince of Wales, at Hampton Court Palace.
[1057] The laws regarding the introduction of lace during this reign continued much the same until 1749, when the royal assent was given to an Act preventing the importation or wear of gold, silver, and thread lace manufactured in foreign parts.
[1058] In the meeting of Nov. 10, 1752, at the "Crown, behind the Royal Exchange," the Hon. Edward Vernon, grand president, in the chair, it was agreed that the following premiums should be awarded: "For the best pair of men's needlework ruffles, to be produced to the committee in the first week of May next, five guineas; to the second, three guineas; to the third, two guineas. And for the best pair of English bone lace for ladies' lappets, to be produced to the committee in August next, fifteen guineas; to the second, ten guineas; to the third, five guineas."--Gentleman's Magazine.
[1059] "Cardinal," a loose cloak after the fashion of a cardinal's "trollopée," a loose flowing gown open in the front, worn as a morning dress.--Fairholt. "Slammerkin," a sort of loose dress. This ugly word, in course of time, was used as an adjective, to signify untidy. Fortunately it is now obsolete.
[1060] "Don't read history to me, for that I know to be false," said Sir R. Walpole to his son Horace, when he offered to read to him in his last illness.
[1061] Lady M. W. Montagu. "Letter to Lord Harvey on the King's Birthday."
"The working apron, too, from France, With all its trim appurtenance." --"Mundus Muliebris."
[1063] Goldsmith. Life of Richard Nash, of Bath. London, 1762.
[1064] 1764.
[1065] Gentleman's Magazine.
[1066] 1767. "An officer of the customs seized nearly £400 worth of Flanders lace, artfully concealed in the hollow of a ship's buoy, on board a French trader, lying off Iron Gate."--Annual Register.
1772. "27,000 ells of French (Blois?) lace were seized in the port of Leigh alone."--Gentleman's Magazine.
[1067] The turbulent Bishop of Rochester, who was arraigned for his Jacobite intrigues, and died in exile at Paris. 1731.
[1068] If imported in smaller quantities than twelve yards, the duty imposed was £2 per yard.
"Let the ruffle grace his hand, Ruffle, pride of Gallic land." --"The Beau." 1755.
"And dip your wristbands (For cuffs you've none) as comely in the sauce As any courtier." --Beaumont and Fletcher.
[1071] He had retired to the country to be out of the way.
[1072] August, 1776.
[1073] The wardrobe of George IV. was estimated at the same sum.
[1074] Cowper.
[1075] 1757.
[1076] "Monsieur à la Mode." 1753.
"Let of ruffles many a row Guard your elbows white as snow." --"The Belle." 1755.
"Gone to a lady of distinction with a Brussels head and ruffles."--The Fool of Quality. 1766.
[1078] "Receipt for Modern Dress." 1753.
[1079] Recollections of Madame d'Arblay.
[1080] Beaumont and Fletcher. The Knight of Malta.
[1081] In coffins with glass tops. Some of them date from 1700.
[1082] In the vault of the Schleswig-Holstein family at Sonderburg.
[1083] In the church of Revel lies the Duc de Croÿ, a general of Charles XII., arrayed in full costume, with a rich flowing tie of fine guipure; not that he was ever interred--his body had been seized by his creditors for debt, and there it still remains.
The author of Letters from a Lady in Russia (1775), describing the funeral of a daughter of Prince Menzikoff, states she was dressed in a nightgown of silver tissue, on her head a fine laced mob, and a coronet; round her forehead a ribbon embroidered with her name and age, etc.
[1084] Alluding to this custom of interring ladies of rank in full dress, Madame de Sévigné writes to her daughter:--"Mon Dieu, ma chère enfant, que vos femmes sont sottes, vivantes et mortes! Vous me faites horreur de cette fontange; quelle profanation! cela sent le paganisme, ho! cela me dégoûteroit bien de mourir en Provence; il faudroit que du moins je fusse assuré qu'on ne m'iroit pas chercher une coëffeuse en même temps qu'un plombier. Ah! vraiment! fi! ne parlez plus de cela."--Lettre 627. Paris, 13 Déc, 1688.
[1085] Laborde. Itin. de l'Espagne. Again, the Duc de Luynes says: "The Curé of St. Sulpice related to me the fashion in which the Duke of Alva, who died in Paris in 1739, was by his own will interred. A shirt of the finest Holland, trimmed with new point lace, the finest to be had for money; a new coat of Vardez cloth, embroidered in silver; a new wig; his cane on the right, his sword on the left of his coffin."--Mémoires.
[1086] That grave-clothes were lace-trimmed we infer from the following strange announcement in the London Gazette for August 12th to 15th, 1678: "Whereas decent and fashionable lace shifts and Dressings for the dead, made of woollen, have been presented to his Majesty by Amy Potter, widow (the first that put the making of such things in practice), and his Majesty well liking the same, hath upon her humble Petition, been graciously pleased to give her leave to insert this advertisement, that it may be known she now wholly applies herself in making both lace and plain of all sorts, at reasonable prices, and lives in Crane Court in the Old Change, near St. Paul's Church Yard." Again, in November of the same year, we find another advertisement:--"His Majesty, to increase the woollen manufacture and to encourage obedience to the late act for burying in woollen, has granted to Amy Potter the sole privilege of making all sorts of woollen laces for the decent burial of the dead or otherwise, for fourteen years, being the first inventor thereof."
[1087] Betterton's History of the English Stage. Her kindness to the poet Savage is well known.
[1088] This seems to have been a spécialité of Gibbons; for we find among the treasures of Strawberry Hill: "A beautiful cravat, in imitation of lace, carved by Gibbons, very masterly."--Hist. and Antiquities of Twickenham. London, 1797.
[1089] Mrs. Piozzi's Memoirs.
[1090] A lady, who had very fine old lace, bequeathed her "wardrobe and lace" to some young friends, who, going after her death to take possession of their legacy, were surprised to find nothing but new lace. On inquiring of the old faithful Scotch servant what had become of the old needle points, she said: "Deed it's aw there, 'cept a wheen auld Dudds, black and ragged, I flinged on the fire."
Another collection of old lace met with an equally melancholy fate. The maid, not liking to give it over to the legatees in its coffee-coloured hue, sewed it carefully together, and put it in a strong soap lye on the fire, to simmer all night. When she took it out in the morning, it was reduced to a jelly! Medea's caldron had not been more effectual!
[1091] Cowper. "The Winter Evening."
[1092] Bishop Berkeley, in A Word to the Wise, writes of the English labourers in the South of England on a summer's evening "sitting along the streets of the town or village, each at his own door, with a cushion before him, making bone lace, and earning more in an evening's pastime than an Irish family would in a whole day."
[1093] "Wells, bone lace and knitting stockings."--Anderson.
[1094] "Launceston, where are two schools for forty-eight children of both sexes. The girls are taught to read, sew, and make bone lace, and they are to have their earnings for encouragement."--Magna Britannia. 1720.
Welsh lace was made at Swansea, Pont-Ardawe, Llanwrtyd, Dufynock, and Brecon, but never of any beauty, some not unlike a coarse Valenciennes. "It was much made and worn," said an aged Wesleyan lady, "by our 'connexion,' and as a child I had all my frocks and pinafores trimmed with it. It was made in the cottages; each lace-maker had her own pattern, and carried it out for sale in the country."
[1095] At what period, and by whom the lace manufactory of Ripon was founded, we have been unable to ascertain. It was probably a relic of conventual days, which, after having followed the fashion of each time, has now gradually died out. In 1842 broad Trolly laces of French design and fair workmanship were fabricated in the old cathedral city; where, in the poorer localities near the Bond and Blossomgate, young women might be seen working their intricate patterns, with pillows, bobbins, and pins. In 1862 one old woman alone, says our informant, sustains the memory of the craft, her produce a lace of a small lozenge-shaped pattern (Fig. 132), that earliest of all designs, and a narrow edging known in local parlance by the name of "fourpenny spot."
[1096] Till its annexation to the Crown, the Isle of Man was the great smuggling depôt for French laces. The traders then removed en masse to the Channel Isles, there to carry on their traffic. An idiot called "Peg the Ply" in Castletown (in 1842) was seen working at her pillow on a summer's evening, the last lace-maker of the island. Isle of Man lace was a simple Valenciennes edging.
[1097] Isle of Wight lace was honoured by the patronage of Queen Victoria. The Princess Royal, reports the Illustrated News of May, 1856, at the drawing-room, on her first presentation, wore a dress of Newport lace, her train trimmed with the same.
The weariness of incarceration, when at Carisbrook, did not bring on Charles I. any distaste for rich apparel. Among the charges of 1648, Sept. and Nov., we find a sum of nigh £800 for suits and cloaks of black brocade tabby, black unshorn velvet, and black satin, all lined with plush and trimmed with rich bone lace.
Some bobbin lace was made in the island, but what is known as "Isle of Wight" resembles "Nottingham" lace. It is made in frames on machine net, the pattern outlined with a run thread and filled in with needle-point stitches. Queen Victoria had several lace tippets made of Isle of Wight lace for the Royal children, and always chose the Mechlin style of rose pattern. Now (1901) there are only two or three old women workers left.
[1098] Lace-making was never the staple manufacture of the Channel Islands; stockings and garments of knitted wool afforded a livelihood to the natives. We have early mention of these articles in the inventories of James V. of Scotland and of Mary Stuart. Also in those of Henry VIII. and Queen Elizabeth, in which last we find (Gt. Ward. Acc., 28 & 29) the charge of 20s. for a pair of "Caligarum nexat' de factura Garneseie," the upper part and "lez clocks" worked in silk. At the beginning of the nineteenth century, when the island was inundated with French refugees, lace-making was introduced with much success into the Poor-House of St. Heliers. It formed the favourite occupation of the ladies of the island, some of whom (1863) retain the patterns and pillows of their mothers, just as they left them. Of late years many of the old raised Venetian points have been admirably imitated in "Jersey crochet work."
[1099] The Puritans again, on their part, transferred the fabric to the other side of the Atlantic, where, says a writer of the eighteenth century, "very much fine lace was made in Long Island by the Protestant settlers."
[1100] See Chap. XXII.
[1101] The richly-laced corporax cloths and church linen are sent to be washed by the "Lady Ancress," an ecclesiastical washerwoman, who is paid by the churchwardens of St. Margaret's, Westminster, the sum of 8d.; this Lady Ancress, or Anchoress, being some worn-out nun, who, since the dissolution of the religious houses, eked out an existence by the art she had once practised within the convent.
[1102] In 1753 prizes were awarded for 14 pairs of curious needlework point ruffles.
[1103] One society confers a prize of ten guineas upon a "gentlewoman for an improvement in manufacture by finishing a piece of lace in a very elegant manner with knitting-needles."
[1104] The lace of the three counties is practically equal--that is, it is all made in a similar fashion, and the same patterns are met with in each county. The "point" or "net" ground is met with in all, and worked level with the pattern in the same way with bobbins.
[1105] Who fled from the Alva persecutions, and settled, first at Cranfield in Bedfordshire, then at Buckingham, Stoney Stratford, and Newport-Pagnel, whence the manufacture extended gradually over Oxford, Northampton, and Cambridge. Many Flemish names are still to be found in the villages of Bedfordshire.
[1106] Queen Katherine died 1536.
[1107] She retired to Ampthill early in 1531 while her appeal to Rome was pending, and remained there till the summer of 1533.
[1108] Lace of the heavy Venetian point was already used for ecclesiastical purposes, though scarcely in general use. The earliest known pattern-books date from fifteen years previous to the death of Katherine (1536).
[1109] Dr. Nicolas Harpsfield. Douay, 1622. (In Latin.)
Again we read that at Kimbolton "she plied her needle, drank her potions, and told her beads."--Duke of Manchester. Kimbolton Papers.
[1110] A lady from Ampthill writes (1863): "The feast of St. Katherine is no longer kept. In the palmy days of the trade both old and young used to subscribe a sum of money and enjoy a good cup of Bohea and cake, which they called 'Cattern' cake. After tea they danced and made merry, and finished the evening with a supper of boiled stuffed rabbits smothered with onion sauce." The custom of sending about Cattern cakes was also observed at Kettering, in Northamptonshire.
[1111] Tour through the whole Island of Great Britain, by a Gentleman. 3 vols. 1724-27. Several subsequent editions of Defoe were published, with additions, by Richardson the novelist in 1732, 1742, 1762, 1769, and 1778. The last is "brought down to the present time by a gentleman of eminence in the literary world."
[1112] _Magna Britannia et Hibernia, or a New Survey of Great Britain, collected and composed by an impartial hand_, by the Rev. Thos. Owen. Lond. 1720-31.
[1113] State Papers Dom. Jac. I. Vol. 142. P. R. O.
[1114] Savary and Peuchet.
[1115] Worthies. Vol. i., p. 134.
[1116] Magna Britannia, Daniel and Samuel Lysons. 1806-22.
[1117] Describing the "lace and edgings" of the tradesman's wife, she has "from Stoney Stratford the first, and Great Marlow the last."--The Complete English Tradesman, Dan. Defoe. 1726.
[1118] Edition 1762.
[1119] In Sheahan's History of Bucks, published in 1862, the following places are mentioned as being engaged in the industry:--"Bierton (black and white lace), Cuddington, Haddenham, Great Hampden, Wendover, Gawcott (black), Beachampton, Marsh Gibbon, Preston Bisset, Claydon, Grendon, Dorton, Grandborough, Oving (black and white), Waddesdon, Newport-Pagnell, Bletchley, Hopton, Great Horwood, Bon Buckhill, Fenny Stratford, Hanslope (where 500 women and children are employed--about one-third of the population), Levendon, Great Sandford, Loughton, Melton Keynes, Moulsoe, Newton Blossomville, Olney, Sherrington, and the adjoining villages, Stoke Hammond, Wavendon, Great and Little Kimble, Wooleston, Aston Abbots, Swanbourne, Winslow, Rodnage."
[1120] The Voyage to Great Britain of Don Manuel Gonzales, late Merchant of the City of Lisbon.--"Some say Defoe wrote this book himself; it is evidently from the pen of an Englishman."--Lowndes' Bibliographers' Manual. Bohn's Edition.
[1121] Annual Register.
[1122] See Britannia Depicta, by John Owen, Gent. Lond. 1764, and others.
[1123] In 1785 there appears in the Gentleman's Magazine* "An essay on the cause and prevention of deformity among the lace-makers of Bucks and North Hants," suggesting improved ventilation and various other remedies long since adopted by the lace-working population in all countries.
* In 1761 appeared a previous paper, "to prevent the effects of stooping and vitiated air," etc.
[1124] Dict. of Commerce.
[1125] In Flanders also these glasses were made and used. The "mediæval 'ourinals' are alike the retorts of the alchemist and the water-globes of the poor Flemish flax-thread spinners and lace makers." Old English Glasses. A. Hartshorne.
[1126] The larger pins had heads put to them with seeds of galium locally called Hariffe or goose-grass; the seeds when fingered became hard and polished.
[1127] Bobbins are usually made of bone, wood or ivory. English bobbins are of bone or wood, and especially in the counties of Bedford, Bucks, and Huntingdon, the set on a lace pillow formed a homely record of their owner's life. The names of her family, dates and records, births and marriages and mottoes, were carved, burnt, or stained on the bobbin, while events of general interest were often commemorated by the addition of a new bobbin. The spangles, jingles (or gingles) fastened to the end of the bobbin have a certain interest; a waistcoat button and a few coral beads brought from overseas, a family relic in the shape of an old copper seal, or an ancient and battered coin--such things as these were often attached to the ring of brass wire passed through a hole in the bobbin. The inscriptions on the bobbins are sometimes burned and afterwards stained, and sometimes "pegged" or traced in tiny leaden studs, and consist of such mottoes as "Love me Truley" (sic), "Buy the Ring," "Osborne for Ever," "Queen Caroline," "Let no false Lover win my heart," "To me, my dear, you may come near," "Lovely Betty," "Dear Mother," and so forth.--R. E. Head. "Some notes on Lace-Bobbins." The Reliquary, July, 1900.
[1128] Too much stress cannot be laid on the importance of using fine linen thread. Many well-meant efforts are entirely ruined by the coarse woolly cotton thread used for what ought to be a fine make of lace. That good thread can be got in Great Britain is evident from the fact that the Brussels dealers employ English thread, and sell it to Venice for the exquisite work of Burano. Needless to say, no Englishman has attempted to make a bid for the direct custom of the 8,000 lace-workers there employed.
[1129] Catalogue of lace (Victoria and Albert Museum).
[1130] The Conversion and Experience of Mary Hurll', or Hurdle, of Marlborough, a maker of bone lace in this town, by the Rev. ---- Hughes, of that town.
[1131] Waylen's History of Marlborough.
[1132] "At Bland, on the Stour, between Salisbury and Dorchester, they made the finest lace in England, valued at £30 per yard."--Universal Dict. of Trade and Commerce. 1774.
[1133] "Much bone lace was made here, and the finest point in England, equal, if not superior, to that of Flanders, and valued at £30 per yard till the beginning of this century."--Hutchins' Hist. of the County of Dorset. 2nd Edition, 1796.
[1134] What this celebrated point was we cannot ascertain. Two samplars sent to us as Blandford point were of geometric pattern resembling the samplar, Fig. 5.
[1135] In 1752.
[1136] Roberts' Hist. of Lyme Regis.
[1137] Burd, Genest, Raymunds, Brock, Couch, Gerard, Murck, Stocker, Maynard, Trump, Groot, etc.
[1138] "We may rather infer that laces of silk and coarse thread were already fabricated in Devonshire, as elsewhere; and that the Flemings, on their arrival, having introduced the fine thread, then spun almost exclusively in their own country, from that period the trade of bone-lace-making flourished in the southern as well as in the midland counties of England" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).
[1139] Ker's Synopsis, written about the year 1561. Two copies of this MS. exist, one in the library of Lord Haldon at Haldon House (Co. Devon), the other in the British Museum. This MS. was never printed, but served as an authority for Westcote and others.
[1140] "She was a daughter of John Flay, Vicar of Buckrell, near Honiton, who by will in 1614 bequeaths certain lands to Jerom Minify (sic), son of Jerom Minify, of Burwash, Sussex, who married his only daughter."--Prince's Worthies of Devon. 1701.
Up to a recent date the Honiton lace-makers were mostly of Flemish origin. Mrs. Stocker, ob. 1769; Mr. J. Stocker, + 1788, and four daughters; Mrs. Mary Stocker, + 179-; Mr. Gerard, + 1799, and daughter; Mrs. Lydia Maynard (of Anti-Gallican celebrity), + 1786; Mrs. Ann Brock, + 1815; Mrs. Elizabeth Humphrey, + 1790, whose family had been in the lace manufacture 150 years and more. The above list has been furnished to the author by Mrs. Frank Aberdein, whose grandfather was for many years in the trade. Mrs. Treadwin, of Exeter, found an old lace-worker using a lace "Turn" for winding sticks, having the date 1678 rudely carved on the foot, showing how the trade was continued in the same family from generation to generation.
[1141] View of Devon. T. Westcote.
[1142] Her bequest is called "Minifie's Gift."
[1143] Here follows the numbers of the people in a few places who get their living by making lace. Among those quoted in Devonshire as interesting to compare with the present day are:--
"Coumbraligh 65, Sidmont 302, Axmouth 73, Sidbury 321, Buckerall 90, Farway 70, Utpotery 118, Branscombe Beare and Seaton 326, Honyton 1341, Axminster 60, Otery St. Mary, 814."
[1144] Church Book of the Baptist Chapel of Lyme Regis.
[1145] Colyton and Ottery St. Mary were among the first. Wherever the say or serge decayed, the lace trade planted itself.
In the church of Colyton, under a fine canopied tomb, repose back to back in most unsociable fashion the recumbent figures of Sir John and Lady Pole. "Dame Elizabeth, daughter of Roger How, merchant of London, ob. 1623," wears a splendid cape of three rows of bone lace descending to the waist. Her cap is trimmed with the same material. As this lace may be of Devonshire fabric, we give a wood-cut of the pattern (Fig. 150).
Sundry Flemish names may still be seen above the shop-windows of Colyton similar to those of Honiton--Stocker, Murch, Spiller, Rochett, Boatch, Kettel, Woram, and others.
[1146] Don Manuel Gonzales mentions "bone lace" among the commodities of Devon.
[1147] The lace manufacture now extends along the coast from the small watering-place of Seaton, by Beer, Branscombe, Salcombe, Sidmouth, and Ollerton, to Exmouth, including the Vale of Honiton and the towns above mentioned.
[1148] 1753.
[1149] Complete System of Geography. Emanuel Bowen, 1747.
This extract is repeated verbatim in England's Gazetteer, by Philip Luckombe. London, 1790.
[1150] Died 1398.
[1151] The best réseau was made by hand with the needle, and was much more expensive.
[1152] Mrs. Aberdein, of Honiton, informed Mrs. Palliser that her father often paid ninety-five guineas per lb. for the thread from Antwerp (1869).
[1153] The manner of payment was somewhat Phoenician, reminding one of Queen Dido and her bargain. The lace ground was spread out on the counter, and the worker herself desired to cover it with shillings; and as many coins as found place on her work she carried away as the fruit of her labour. The author once calculated the cost, after this fashion, of a small lace veil on real ground, said to be one of the first ever fabricated. It was 12 inches wide and 30 inches long, and, making allowance for the shrinking caused by washing, the value amounted to £20, which proved to be exactly the sum originally paid for the veil. The ground of this veil, though perfect in its workmanship, is of a much wider mesh than was made in the last days of the fabric. It was the property of Mrs. Chick.
[1154] "The last specimen of 'real' ground made in Devon was the marriage veil of Mrs. Marwood Tucker. It was with the greatest difficulty workers could be procured to make it. The price paid for the ground alone was 30 guineas" (1869).
[1155] With the desire of combining the two interests, her Majesty ordered it to be made on the Brussels (machine-made) ground.
[1156] _A_MARANTH, _D_APHNE, _E_GLANTINE, _L_ILAC, _A_URICULA, _I_VY, _D_AHLIA, _E_GLANTINE.
[1157] The workers of Beer, Axmouth, and Branscombe, have always been considered the best in the trade.
[1158] Exposition Universelle de 1867. Rapport du Jury International, "Dentelles," par Felix Aubry.
[1159] For the encouragement of Agriculture, Arts, Manufactures, and Commerce. The prizes were offered for the best Sprigs, Nosegays, Borders for shawls, veils, or collars, Lappets, collars and cuffs, Pocket-handkerchiefs, etc., "of good workmanship and design, worked either in Flowers, Fruits, Leaves, or Insects, strictly designed from nature." Three prizes were awarded for each description of article. The Society also offered prizes for small application sprigged veils, and for the best specimens of braidwork, in imitation of Spanish point.
[1160] Honiton Lace, by Mrs. Treadwin. London, 1874. Honiton Lace-making, by Devonia, London, 1874.
[1161] Lappets and scarfs were made of trolly lace from an early date. Mrs. Delarey, in one of her letters, dated 1756, speaks of a "trolly head." Trolly lace, before its downfall, has been sold at the extravagant price of five guineas a yard.
[1162] "Fifty years since Devonshire workers still make a 'Greek' lace, as they termed it, similar to the 'dentelles torchons' so common through the Continent. The author has seen specimens of this fabric in a lace-maker's old pattern-book, once the property of her mother" (Mrs. Palliser, 1869).
[1163] Though no longer employed at lace-making, the boys in the schools at Exmouth are instructed in crochet work (1869).
[1164] Of Otterton.
[1165] In Woodbury will be found a small colony of lace-makers who are employed in making imitation Maltese or Greek lace, a fabric introduced into Devon by order of her late Majesty the Queen Dowager on her return from Malta. The workers copy these coarse geometric laces with great facility and precision. Among the various cheap articles to which the Devonshire workers have of late directed their labours is the tape or braid lace, and the shops of the country are now inundated with their productions in the form of collars and cuffs (1869.)
[1166] The Honiton pillows are rather smaller than those for Buckinghamshire lace, and do not have the multiplicity of starched coverings--only three "pill cloths," one over the top, and another on each side of the lace in progress; two pieces of horn called "sliders" go between to take the weight of the bobbins from dragging the stitches in progress; a small square pin-cushion is on one side, and stuck into the pillow is the "needle-pin"--a large sewing needle in a wooden handle, and for picking up loops through which the bobbins are placed. The pillow has to be frequently turned round in the course of the work, so that no stand is used, and it is rested against a table or doorway; and formerly, in the golden days, in fine weather there would be rows of workers sitting outside their cottages resting their "pills" against the back of the chair in front.
The bobbins used in Honiton lace-making are delicately-fashioned slender things of smooth, close-grained wood, their length averaging about three and a half inches. They have no "gingles," and none of the carving and relief inlayings of the Buckinghamshire and Bedfordshire bobbins; but some of them are curiously stained with a brown pigment in an irregular pattern resembling the mottlings of clouded bamboo or those of tortoise-shell.
[1167] "The author has visited many lace-schools in Devon, and though it might be desired that some philanthropist would introduce the infant school system of allowing the pupils to march and stretch their limbs at the expiration of every hour, the children, notwithstanding, looked ruddy as the apples in their native orchards; and though the lace-worker may be less robust in appearance than the farm-servant or the Cheshire milkmaid, her life is more healthy far than the female operative in our northern manufactories" (1875).
[1168] "A good lace-maker easily earns her shilling a day, but in most parts of Devonshire the work is paid by the truck system, many of the more respectable shops giving one-half in money, the remaining sixpence to be taken out in tea or clothing, sold often considerably above their value. Other manufacturers--to their shame, be it told--pay their workers altogether in grocery, and should the lace-maker, from illness or any other cause, require an advance in cash, she is compelled to give work to the value of fourteen-pence for every shilling she receives. Some few houses pay their workers in money" (1875).
[1169] Medals were won at the Chicago World's Fair for Devonshire lace by Mrs. Fowler and Miss Radford, of Sidmouth. The latter has also received the freedom of the City of London for a beautiful lace fan, her sprigs being the finest and most exquisite models of flowers and birds it is possible to produce in lace. A third medal was won by the Italian laces at Beer.
[1170] Those held at Sidbury and Sidford are very successful, and the children, ranging in age from, nine to fifteen, come regularly for their "lace." It is interesting to watch the improvement in the work of the "flys," the first lesson, and as a rule each child makes forty to fifty before going on to anything further.
[1171] At Beer, where fishing is the staple industry, in bad fish seasons the women can earn more than the men; and at Honiton in the hard winter of 1895 the lace-makers kept themselves and their families, and were spared applying for relief--all honour to their skill and self-helpfulness.
[1172] "1539. Ane uther gowne of purpour satyne with ane braid pasment of gold and silver," etc.
"Twa Spanye cloikis of black freis with ane braid pasment of gold and silver."
"1542. Three peces of braid pasmentes of gold and silver."--Inventories of the Royal Wardrobe and Jewel House. 1488-1606. Edinb. 1815.
[1173] 1542. Same Inv.
[1174] In the Inv. of the Earl of Huntley, 1511-12, there is mention of dresses "passamenté d'or."
[1175] Chap. X., note.
1537. James V. and Lord Somerville at Holyrood:--"Where are all your men and attendants, my Lord?"
"Please, your Majesty, they are here"--pointing to the lace which was on his son and two pages' dress. The King laughed heartily and surveyed the finery, and bade him "Away with it all, and let him have his stout band of spears again."
[1176] Croft's Excerpta Antiqua.
The Countess of Mar, daughter of the first Duke of Lennox and granddaughter by her mother's side to Marie Touchet. She was daughter-in-law to the preceptress of James VI., and in 1593 had the honour, at the baptism of Prince Henry, of lifting the child from his bed and delivering him to the Duke of Lennox. A portrait of this lady, in the high Elizabethan ruff, and with a "forepart" and tucker of exquisite raised Venice point, hung (circ. 1870) in the drawing-room of the late Miss Katherine Sinclair.
[1177] "Une robe de velours vert couverté de Broderies, gimpeures, et cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même.
"Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent.
"Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure d'or.
"Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc.
"Robe de weloux noyr semée de geynpeurs d'or."--Inv. of Lillebourg. 1561.
[1178] "Chamarrée de bisette."--Inv. of Lillebourg. 1561.
"Ane rabbat of wolvin thread with passmentet with silver."
[1179] Chap. III.
[1180] See LACIS, Chap. II.
[1181] See NEEDLEWORK, Chap. I.
[1182] Her lace ruffs Mary appears to have had from France, as we may infer from a letter written by Walsingham, at Paris, to Burleigh, when the Queen was captive at Sheffield Castle, 1578: "I have of late granted a passport to one that conveyeth a box of linen to the Queen of Scots, who leaveth not this town for three or four days. I think your Lordship shall see somewhat written on some of the linen contained in the same, that shall be worth the reading. Her Majesty, under colour of seeing the fashion of the ruffes, may cause the several parcels of the linen to be held to the fire, whereby the writing may appear; for I judge there will be some such matter discovered, which was the cause why I did the more willingly grant the passport."
[1183] In 1575.
[1184] There was some demur about receiving the nightcaps, for Elizabeth declared "that great commotions had taken place in the Privy Council because she had accepted the gifts of the Queen of Scots. They therefore remained for some time in the hands of La Mothe, the ambassador, but were finally accepted."--Miss Strickland.
[1185] "Inventaire of our Soveraine Lord and his dearest moder. 1578."--Record Office, Edinburgh.
[1186] Records of Life, by Miss H. Pigott. 1839.
[1187] Similar to the New Year's Gift of the Baroness Aletti to Queen Elizabeth:--
"A veil of lawn cutwork flourished with silver and divers colours."--Nichols' Royal Progresses.
[1188] "Twa quaiffs ane of layn and uther of woving thread.
Ane quaiff of layn with twa cornettes sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold and silver.
Twa pair of cornettes of layn sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold.
Ane wovin collar of thread passementit with incarnit and blew silk and silver."--Inv. of 1578.
[1189] "Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk and gold and cramoisie silk with the handis (cuffs) thereof.
Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk of gold and black silk.
Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk with purpure silk with the handis of the same."--Ibid.
[1190] "Twa towell claiths of holane claith sewitt with cuttit out werk and gold.
Four napkinnes of holane claith and cammaraye sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold and silver and divers cullours of silk."--Ibid.
[1191] Published by Prince Labanoff. "Recueil de Lettres de Marie Stuart." T. vii., p. 247.
[1192] Marriage Expenses of James VI., 1589. Published by the Bannatyne Club.
[1193] Accounts of the Great Chamberlain of Scotland. 1590.--Bannatyne Club.
[1194] In 1581, 1597, and 1621.
[1195] The same privilege was extended to their wives, their eldest sons with their wives, and their eldest daughters, but not to the younger children.
[1196] 1633. In the Account of Expenses for the young Lord of Lorne, we find:--
"2 ells Cambridg' at 8s. the ell for ruffles, 16s.
"2 ells of Perling at 30s., the uther at 33s. 4d., £3 3s. 4d."--Innes' Sketches of Early Scotch History.
[1197] January, 1686.
[1198] "In 1701, when Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of Kilravock, married, 'flounced muslin and lace for combing cloths,' appear in her outfit."--Innes' Sketches.
[1199] In a pamphlet published 1702, entitled, An Accompt carried between England and Scotland, alluding to the encouragement of the yarn trade, the author says: "This great improvement can be attested by the industry of many young gentlewomen that have little or no portion, by spinning one pound of fine lint, and then breaking it into fine flax and whitening it. One gentlewoman told me herself that, by making an ounce or two of it into fine bone lace, it was worth, or she got, twenty pounds Scots for that part of it; and might, after same manner, five or eight pounds sterling out of a pound of lint, that cost her not one shilling sterling. Now if a law were made not to import any muslin (her Grace the Duchess of Hamilton still wears our finest Scots muslin as a pattern to others--she who may wear the finest apparel) and Holland lace, it would induce and stir up many of all ranks to wear more fine 'Scots lace,' which would encourage and give bread to many young gentlewomen and help their fortunes." Then, among the products of Scotland by which "we may balance any nation," the same writer mentions "our white thread, and making laces."
"On Tuesday, the 16th inst., will begin the roup of several sorts of merchants' goods, in the first story of the Turnpyke, above the head of Bells Wynd, from 9 to 12 and 2 till 5. 'White thread lace.'"--Edinburgh Courant. 1706.
[1200] See Chap. XXV., Queen Anne.
[1201] Edinburgh Advertiser. 1764.
[1202] 1745. The following description of Lady Lovat, wife of the rebel Simon, is a charming picture of a Scotch gentlewoman of the last century:--
"When at home her dress was a red silk gown with ruffled cuffs and sleeves puckered like a man's shirt, a fly cap of lace encircling her head, with a mob cap laid across it, falling down on the cheeks; her hair dressed and powdered; a lace handkerchief round the neck and bosom (termed by the Scotch a Befong)--a white apron edged with lace.... Any one who saw her sitting on her chair, so neat, fresh, and clean, would have taken her for a queen in wax-work placed in a glass case."--Heart of Midlothian.
Sir Walter Scott, whose descriptions are invariably drawn from memory, in his Chronicles of the Canongate, describes the dressing-room of Mrs. Bethune Balliol as exhibiting a superb mirror framed in silver filigree-work, a beautiful toilet, the cover of which was of Flanders lace.
[1203] Heart of Midlothian.
[1204] Statistical Account of Scotland. Sir John Sinclair. Edinburgh, 1792. Vol. ii., 198.
[1205] Edinburgh Amusement.
[1206] 1755. Premium £2 offered. "For the whitest, best, and finest lace, commonly called Hamilton lace, and of the best pattern, not under two yards in length and not under three inches in breadth."
[1207] The Edinburgh Society did not confine their rewards to Hamilton lace; imitation of Dresden, catgut lace, gold, silver, and even livery lace, each met with its due reward.
1758. For imitation of lace done on catgut, for ruffles, a gold medal to Miss Anne Cant, Edinburgh.
For a piece of livery lace done to perfection to J. Bowie, 2 guineas.
To W. Bowie for a piece of gold and silver lace, 2 guineas.
[1208] 1769. Pennant, in his Tour, mentions among the manufactures of Scotland thread laces at Leith, Hamilton and Dalkeith.
[1209] In 1762, Dec. 9, a schoolmistress in Dundee, among thirty-one accomplishments in which she professes to instruct her pupils, such as "waxwork, boning fowls without cutting the back," etc., enumerates, No. 21, "True point or tape lace," as well as "washing Flanders lace and point."
Again, in 1764, Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell advertise in their boarding-school "lacework and the washing of blonde laces; the pupils' own laces washed and got up at home. Terms £24."
At Miss Glen's boarding-school in the Trunk Close, 1768, young ladies are taught "white and coloured seam and washing of lace"--gratis.
These lady-teachers were not appointed in Scotland without giving due proofs of their capacity. In 1758 the magistrates and council of Aberdeen, being unanimous as to the "strict morality, Dresden work, modesty, and catgut lace-making," etc., of Miss Betsey Forbes, elected her to the office of schoolmistress of the city.
In The Cottagers of Glenburnie a lady, Mrs. Mason, tells a long story of the young laird having torn a suit of lace she was busied in getting up.
[1210] Edinburgh Advertiser.
[1211] 1774. "Several punds of badly-spun yarn was burnt by the stamp master in Montrose." This announcement constantly occurs.
[1212] About this period a Mr. Brotherton, of Leith, seems to have made a discovery which was but a prelude to the bobbin net. It is thus described in the Weekly Magazine of 1772:--"A new invention has lately been discovered by Mr. Brotherton, in Leith, for working black silk lace or white thread lace on a loom, to imitate any pattern whatever, and the lace done in this way looks fully as well as if sewed, and comes much cheaper. It is done any breadth, from three inches to three-quarters of a yard wide."
[1213] In 1775 Dallas, Barclay & Co., advertise a selling off of fine point, Brussels thread, blond, and black laces of all kinds, silver double edged lace, etc.--Edinburgh Advertiser.
1775. "Black blonde and thread laces, catguts of all sorts, just arrived from the India House in London in the Canongate."--Caledonian Mercury.
"Fashions for January; dresses trimmed with Brussels point or Mignonette."--Ibid. Same year.
[1214] "Madame Puteau carries on a lace manufacture after the manner of Mechlin and Brussels. She had lately twenty-two apprentices from the Glasgow Hospital.... Mrs. Puteau has as much merit in this branch as has her husband in the making of fine thread. This he manufactures of such a fineness as to be valued at £10 the pound weight."--Essays on the Trade, Commerce, Manufactures, Fisheries, etc., of Scotland. David Loch. 1778.
[1215] "If you look at the wardrobes of your grandmother, you will perceive what revolutions have happened in taste of mankind for laces and other fineries of that sort. How many suits of this kind do you meet with that cost amazing sums, which are now, and have long since been, entirely useless. In our own day did we not see that in one year Brussels laces are most in fashion and purchased at any price, while the next perhaps they are entirely laid aside, and French or other thread laces, or fine sewings, the names of which I know not, highly prized."--Observations on the National Industry of Scotland. Anderson. 1778.
[1216] Lace-making at Hamilton is now a thing of the past, replaced in the nineteenth century by a tambour network for veils, scarfs and flounces.
[1217] Essay on the Dress of the Early Irish. J. C. Walker. 1788.
[1218] The Image of Irelande, by Jhon Derricke. 1578.
[1219] In 1562. See Camden. Hist. Eliz.
[1220] Henry VIII. 1537. Against Irish fashions. Not "to weare any shirt, smock, kerchor, bendel, neckerchour, mocket, or linen cappe colored or dyed with saffron," and not to use more than seven yards of linen in their shirts or smocks.
[1221] 4 Edw. IV., Harl MSS. No. 1419. b.-g. 494.
[1222] That lace ruffs soon appeared in Ireland may be proved by the effigy on a tomb still extant in the Abbey of Clonard, in which the Dillon arms are conspicuous, and also by paintings of the St. Lawrence family, circ. 1511, preserved at Howth Castle.
In the portrait at Muckruss of the Countess of Desmond she is represented with a lace collar. It was taken, as stated at the back of the portrait, "as she appeared at the court of King James, 1614, and in y^e 140th year of her age." Thither she went to endeavour to reverse the attainder of her house.
[1223] At the end of the last century there lived at Creaden, near Waterford, a lady of the name of Power, lineal descendant of the kings of Munster, and called the Queen of Creaden. She affected the dress of the ancient Irish. The border of her coif was of the finest Irish-made Brussels lace; her jacket of the finest brown cloth trimmed with gold lace; her petticoat of the finest scarlet cloth bordered with a row of broad gold lace; all her dress was of Irish manufacture.
[1224] Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack, by G. Watson. Dublin, 1757.
[1225] "The freedom of the city of Dublin was also conferred upon her, presented in due form in a silver box as a mark of esteem for her great charities and constant care of the Foundling children in the city workhouse."--Dublin Freeman's Journal, July 30th, 1765.
[1226] Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack, by Samuel Watson. 1773.
[1227] "The Lady Arabella Denny died 1792, aged 85; she was second daughter of Thomas Fitzmaurice, Earl of Kerry. The Irish Academy, in acknowledgment of her patriotic exertions, offered a prize of 100 guineas for the best monody on her death. It was gained by John Macaulay, Esq."--Dublin Freeman's Journal, July 20th, 1766.
[1228] Wakefield writes in 1812: "Lace is not manufactured to a large extent in Ireland. I saw some poor children who were taught weaving by the daughters of a clergyman, and Mr. Tighe mentions a school in Kilkenny where twelve girls were instructed in the art. At Abbey-leix there is a lace manufacture, but the quantity made is not of any importance."--Account of Ireland. Statistical and Political. Edw. Wakefield. 1812.
[1229] Pall Mall Gazette, May 8th, 1897.
[1230] Walker was a man of literary and artistic tastes, and educated for the Church, but, marrying the daughter of a lace-manufacturer, he set up in that business in Essex, working for the London wholesale trade. He removed next to Limerick, where he continued till 1841, when he sold the business, but his successor becoming bankrupt, he never received the purchase money, and died 1842, his ingenuity and industry ill-rewarded. In some work (we have lost the reference) it is stated that "Coggeshall, in Essex, made a tambour lace, a sort of medium between lace and embroidery." Could this be Walker's manufacture?
[1231] In 1855 the number of workers employed numbered 1,500. In 1869 there were less than 500. In 1869 Mrs. Palliser writes of the tambour lace industry: "The existing depression of the trade has been partly caused by the emigration of girls to America and the colonies, while glove-making and army clothing employ the rest; and indeed the manufacture aiming only at cheapness had produced a lace of inferior quality, without either novelty or beauty of design, from which cause Limerick lace has fallen into disrepute."