The Mediterranean (part 5 of 5)

The Mediterranean (part 5 of 5)

The dominion of Macedonia was followed by that of Rome, in spite of the nominal declaration of the independence of Greece made by the consul Flamininus in 196 B.C. After the overthrow of the Achæan League, of which Athens was a member, and the destruction of Corinth in 146 Greece and Macedonia were formed into a Roman province. Athens had to pay heavily for the ill-considered help it afforded Mithridates, King of Pontus, who chose Greece as the battle-field on which to contest with Rome the sovereignty of Asia. The city was stormed and sacked by Sulla in 86 B.C., and the fortifications of the Piræus were finally demolished. The city was, however, favoured by Cæsar and the Roman emperors. The chief buildings of this period are the Tower of the Winds, the Market Gate owing its origin to donations made by Cæsar and Augustus, the statue of Agrippa, the round temple of Roma and Augustus, the new marble steps of the Propylæa, and the monument of Philopappos.

A new period in the history of art was inaugurated by Hadrian (A.D. 117–38), the friend of Greece, to whom countless statues were erected under the titles of the Olympian, the Founder, the Liberator. A whole quarter of the city, to the S.E. of the castle, was called after him, as may still be read on Hadrian’s Arch. In this quarter rose the temple of Zeus completed by him. In the old town he founded a library, a gymnasion, and a pantheon, and Athens is still supplied with water by his aqueduct. At the same period Herodes Atticus (101–77), a rich citizen, built the odeion named after him. Lastly Marcus Aurelius (161–80), from whose time dates the description of the city by Pausanias, summoned new teachers to the Athenian school of philosophy. From that period begins the gradual stagnation and decay of the city.

In 267 Athens was captured by the Heruli and Goths. In 395 and 396 Alaric with his Visigoths appeared before its gates, but spared it on payment of tribute. From the 5th cent. onwards numerous works of art were removed from Athens to Constantinople, as had been partly done by Constantine himself, to grace the buildings of New Rome. In 529 Justinian gave the death-blow to the intellectual life of Athens by closing the schools of philosophy. Athens sank to the position of a Byzantine provincial town. In 1019 Basil II. held a triumphal festival in the Parthenon, which had long been used as a church. In 1040 the Northmen under Harald Haardraade took the Piræus by storm.

After the conquest of Constantinople by the Latin Crusaders in 1204 (p. 542) Athens fell into the hands of Frankish nobles known as dukes after 1258. At length, in 1456, after a vigorous defence, Athens was captured by the Turks, and thenceforth belonged to the pashalik of Negroponte (Eubœa). But two events in the next three centuries and a half deserve mention; it was attacked by the Venetians in 1466 and it was captured and occupied for a short time by their general Francesco Morosini in 1687. On the latter occasion the Parthenon, hitherto uninjured, was blown up, while the Propylæa had already been destroyed by an earlier explosion (comp. p. 513). Athens then fell into complete oblivion and had to be rediscovered by the explorers and scholars of the 19th century.

The Greeks began their war of independence in 1821, and in 1822 captured the Acropolis of Athens. The Turks, however, stormed the town in 1826, and in 1827 took the Acropolis also after a brave resistance. The whole of Hellas thus fell again under the Turkish yoke. But the Great Powers now intervened. In 1833 the Acropolis was evacuated by the Turks, and entered by the Bavarian troops of the new king, Otho. In 1834 Athens was made the capital of the new kingdom, and since 1835 has been the seat of government. This distinction it owes to its historic fame, its site being geographically and economically unfavourable for a great modern city. It has attracted neither wholesale trade nor industry, and Attica itself is by no means productive.

BOOKS. Of the extensive literature on Athens the following books may be useful to the traveller: Stuart’s and Revett’s ‘The Antiquities of Athens’ (4 vols.; rev. ed., 1825–30); Leake’s ‘Topography of Athens’ (London, 1821); Wordsworth’s ‘Athens and Attica’ (4th ed., 1869); Dyer’s ‘Ancient Athens’ (London, 1873); Harrison’s and Verrall’s ‘Mythology and Monuments of Ancient Athens’ (London, 1890); E. A. Gardner’s ‘Ancient Athens’ (London, 1902).

a. Walk from the Palace round the S. Side of the Acropolis.

The PLACE DE LA CONSTITUTION, or Syntagma Square (Pl. F, 5, 6; p. 505), with its hotels and cafés, is bounded by gardens on the E., beyond which rises the =Royal Palace= (Pl. F, G, 5, 6), built of limestone and Pentelic marble (1834–8), with a Doric portico. The trellised walks of the palace-garden (Pl. F, G, 6; entr. to the right, in the Rue de Képhisia; adm. Wed. and Frid., 4–6, in winter 3–5; smoking prohibited) afford shady promenades; from the S. part, with its fine palms, we get picturesque glimpses of the columns of the Olympieion, the Acropolis, and the sea.

From Syntagma Square the broad Rue des Philhellènes leads to the S., past the Russian Church and the English Church (Pl. F, 6, 7), a tasteful Gothic edifice, to the beautiful grounds of the =Záppion= (Pl. F, 7), an exhibition-building opened in 1888.

The two statues adorning the flight of steps represent the brothers Zappas, who founded the building. At the W. angle of the grounds is a pleasing Statue of Byron (Pl. E, 7). Café on the Terrace (p. 503).

To the S. we have a view of the sea; to the E. (left) rises Hymettos. In the foreground, adjoining the Olympieion (p. 509), is *=Hadrian’s Arch= (Pl. E, 7), erected either by himself or his successor. This gateway, 14½ yds. broad and 59 ft. high, marked, as the inscriptions record, the boundary between the older quarters and the new town of Hadrian (p. 507). It was adorned with projecting Corinthian columns, of which fragments of the bases and the entablature alone survive. Above the gateway rises an attica with three window-like apertures and a pediment in the centre.

The =Olympieion= (Pl. E, F, 7, 8), or Temple of the Olympian Zeus, has been entirely destroyed with the exception of fifteen huge marble columns. The original temple dates from the time of Peisistratos (ca. 530 B.C.; p. 506), but scarcely more than the foundations were then built. The work was resumed, ca. 174 B.C., by Antiochos IV. Epiphanes, to whose edifice the existing ruins belong, but it was completed only by Hadrian. When the temple was consecrated (ca. 129 A.D.) the Athenians showed their gratitude by erecting a statue of the emperor next to the gold and ivory statue of Zeus. The temple rose on a basis (118 by 45 yds.) approached by three steps, and was the largest Greek temple in existence after those of Ephesus and Selinus. The W. and E. ends were flanked with triple rows of eight columns, and the N. and S. sides with double rows of twenty; in all there were 104 Corinthian columns, 56½ ft. high and 56–67 inches in diameter.

The precincts of the temple consisted of a large levelled platform, created by Hadrian, 224 by 141 yds., which had to be backed up on the W. side and at the S.E. corner, where it is buttressed with huge substructions. On the N. side, in a line with the E. front of the temple, an entrance with four columns has been unearthed.

The view stretches from Hymettos to the sea, with the islands of Ægina and Hydra and the coast of Argolis.

The Olga Boulevard (Pl. E-G, 7, 8), on the bank of the Ilissos (generally dry), leads to the E. from the Olympieion to the Stadion bridge. Opposite the bridge is the old Protestant Cemetery.

The *=Stadion= (Pl. G, H, 8; adm. 20 l.), the scene of the Panathenæan games, situated in a natural basin, was planned by Lykourgos (p. 507) in 330 B.C. The seats and balustrades in Pentelic marble were added, about 140 A.D., by Herodes Atticus (p. 507). The great size of the Stadion and the height of its rows of seats produce a very imposing effect, and this is enhanced by the rich marble decorations, which were renewed in 1896–1906. On its completion the building was inaugurated in 1906 with Olympic games, which are to be held here every four years. The entrance consists of a Corinthian propylæum. The race-course, ascending slightly, is 224 yds. long as far as the semicircular space at the S.E. end (sphendonē), and 36½ yds. in breadth. Exclusive of barriers and corridor, the actual course was 600 Græco-Roman or 584 Engl. ft. (195 yds.) long, and was divided into sections by metae or goals, consisting of double hermæ, two of which have been re-erected at the semicircular space. The course is separated by a marble parapet from a corridor, 3 yds. wide, affording access to the lower tiers of seats. These are 24 in number, and higher up, separated from them by a broad passage, are 20 rows of benches, above which runs another passage overlooking the whole and protected on the outside by a parapet. There is accommodation for 50,000 spectators.

From Hadrian’s Arch the short Rue de Lysicrate leads to the N.W. to the beautiful choragic *=Monument of Lysikrates= (Pl. E, 7), resembling a small round temple. This is the oldest well-preserved monument in the Corinthian style, and once served as the library of that French Capuchin Convent where Lord Byron spent a night. According to the inscription above the half-columns on the S.E. side, it was erected in 335–334 by a certain Lysikrates who had won the victory in the Dionysian games. On a cubic basement rises a round building in Pentelic marble, 21½ ft. high, with six Corinthian half-columns which support a tripartite architrave and sculptured frieze. The conical roof, consisting of a single slightly convex block of marble, is crowned with a vigorous acanthus flower, on which once stood the bronze tripod won by Lysikrates. The frieze, which dates from the prime of the school of Praxiteles, represents in very low relief, partly obliterated, the punishment of the Tyrrhenian pirates who had robbed Dionysos; before the god converts them into dolphins, they are being tormented in every possible way by his attendant satyrs.

We return by the Rue de Byron (to the S.) to Amalia Street, in line with which the DIONYSIOS AREOPAGITES STREET (Pl. D, C, 7) ascends to the Acropolis.

The *=Theatre of Dionysos= (Pl. D, 7), whose entrance we soon reach, was once the centre of the dramatic art of Greece, the spot in which the masterpieces of Æschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, and Aristophanes first excited delight and admiration. From the early 5th cent, this site was occupied by a round enclosed orchestra (‘dancing place’), while for each performance a stage had to be specially erected, the audience being seated in a levelled hollow in the Acropolis hill-side. In the 4th cent., mainly in the time of Lykourgos (p. 507), tiers of stone seats and a permanent stage were erected for the first time. The present semicircular orchestra, paved with marble, and the remains of the stage-building belong to Roman restorations. The Roman raised stage rested on a wall adorned with good sculptures of the time of Nero. During the Greek age the actors and the chorus, the former wearing the raised cothurnus, performed on the level space in the orchestra, while the skēnē or stage served them as a kind of booth. The proskēnion, or wooden front of the stage, formed the background of the play, and was only superseded by a stone wall with columns at the close of the late Hellenistic period. Between the rectangular wings of the stage (paraskēnia) and the lowest seats for the spectators opened the entrances for the chorus (párodoi). The auditorium was divided by narrow flights of steps into 13 ‘wedges’ (kerkides) and by two cross passages (diazomata) into three main sections. The seats, originally for 14–17,000 spectators, are only partly preserved. In the front row were marble seats for the priests and state officials; that in the centre, set apart for the priest of Dionysos, is adorned with reliefs. The pedestal to the right, behind it, bore the throne of Hadrian.

Adjoining the theatre was the Sacred Precinct of Dionysos Eleuthereus, the wine-dispensing god, with whose festivals the dramatic performances were connected. The walls of his temple (5th or early 4th cent.) are still partly preserved between the stage of the theatre and the modern street. Behind the stage ran a colonnade offering shelter in rainy weather; at its S.W. end once stood an older temple, the N.W. corner of which has been discovered.

The ancient buildings to the W. of the theatre of Dionysos skirt the hill-side in two terraces. The E. half of the upper terrace, on the steep slope of the castle-hill, above the conspicuous arched wall, is the site of the famous =Asklepieion=, or sacred precinct of Asklepios (Æsculapius), Hygieia, and kindred deities, with which institutions for the treatment of the sick were connected. Of the temple, founded in 420, the foundations only are left. The perpendicular side of the Acropolis is here faced with masonry, in which is the entrance to a round well-house converted into a chapel. In front of it ran a colonnade towards the W., leading to a round pit, once roofed over, which is supposed to have been used for sacrificial purposes or as the abode of the sacred serpents.

On the lower terrace, from the theatre to the Odeion, ran the Stoa of King Eumenes II. of Pergamon (B.C. 197–159), 180 yds. long, with its back to the masonry supporting the upper terrace.

The *=Odeion of Herodes Atticus= (Pl. C, 7; keys kept by a pensioner, in the red hut at the W. entrance; 25–50 l.), founded by a rich citizen (p. 507; about 160 A.D.), dominates all the other ruins at the foot of the castle-hill. Unlike the usual odeon or theatre for musical entertainments, this building was constructed with a view to dramatic performances. The yellowish-brown façade is constructed in the Roman round-arched style and consisted of three stories. The usual entrance is by the westmost of the three doors. A niche here contains the statue of a Roman official.

The INTERIOR affords a good example of a Roman theatre (comp. p. 510). The stage (logeion), raised 3½ ft. above the orchestra, is 38½ yds. in breadth, but only 6 yds. deep. At the back of the stage is a massive wall, broken by the usual three stage-doors and relieved by niches and a row of columns. The orchestra, 20 yds. wide, was paved with particoloured squares of marble. The auditorium, 83 yds. in diameter, could hold 5000 spectators. The tiers of seats rise in a semicircle, one above the other, on the rocky slope of the Acropolis. The lower 19 tiers were divided by steps into five, the upper (probably 13), above the transverse passage (see p. 510 and above), into ten sections. The seats, like the whole of the masonry, were coated with Pentelic marble; the lowest tier had backs. The whole edifice was covered with a superb roof of cedar-wood.

From the Dionysios Areopagites Street (p. 510), where it passes the Odeion, there diverges to the W. the avenue leading to the Acropolis, immediately to the right of which a steep path ascends on the W. side of the Odeion to the Acropolis gate.

Halfway up we diverge to the left to visit the summit of a rocky plateau (377 ft.) separated from the Acropolis by a depression, and descending abruptly to the N.E., still called as in ancient times the =Areopagus= (Pl. B, C, 6). A narrow flight of steps in the rock, partly destroyed, ascends to the site of some ancient altars, for which platforms were hewn in the rock. Here met the time-honoured court of justice, composed of noble and aged citizens who wielded supreme criminal jurisdiction. The cleft in the rock below the N.E. corner was probably connected with the cult of the avenging Erinyes (Furies), or Eumenides (the benevolent), as they were euphemistically called. This was the scene of Æschylus’s famous tragedy of that name.

To the S.W. of the Areopagus rock, and below (to the E. of) the modern road from the Theseion (p. 521) to the Acropolis, the OLDEST QUARTER OF THE LOWER TOWN has been partly excavated (comp. Pl. B, 7, and p. 524). Descending at the W. point of the Areopagus rock from the modern to the ancient road, we reach, on the left, the DIONYSION EN LIMNAIS (Pl. B, 7), a triangular space enclosed by an antique polygonal wall of limestone. This was the sacred precinct of Dionysos Lenæos, the inventor of the wine-press, and once contained a temple of the 7th or 6th cent. B.C., a wine-press (in the N.W. angle), and a large hall of the Roman period (in the N.E. half).

To the S. of the temple-precinct lay the City Well of Kallirrhoë. Peisistratos connected it with his aqueduct from the upper Ilissos valley, and provided it with nine spouts, whence it was called Enneákrunos.

b. The Acropolis.

The abrupt limestone plateau (512 ft.) on which stands the Acropolis, or castle of Athens, has formed from hoar antiquity the nucleus of all the settlements in the Attic plain. The legendary Pelasgi are said to have first levelled the top of the hill, enclosed it with a wall, and erected the so-called Enneápylon, an outwork with nine gates, to defend the sole approach on the W. side. The Acropolis contained the residence of the kings and the chief sanctuaries of the state. The kings afterwards transferred their seat to the lower city, Peisistratos alone preferring to reside in the Acropolis. The ancient buildings were destroyed by the Persians in 480–479. Themistokles and Kimon rebuilt the walls, and Perikles then became the chief founder of those magnificent buildings which, even in their ruins, still present the finest picture of the unrivalled art of antiquity.

Tramway, see p. 503.

The avenue mentioned above which ascends to the W. at the Odeion of Herodes Atticus brings us to the so-called Beulé Gate, on the plateau below the last steep W. slope of the **=Acropolis=. Carriages stop here. Visitors admitted till sunset.

The BEULÉ GATE, named after the French savant who discovered it, was entirely built over by bastions down to 1852, but since 1889 has formed the chief entrance to the Acropolis (side-entrance under the Nike bastion). The towers flanking the gateway were built about 50 A.D.; the gateway itself dates from 160 A.D. and is embellished with fragments from a choragic monument erected by Nikias in 319.

From the Beulé Gate we ascend a flight of marble steps, with many gaps, to the Propylæa. This staircase, which also was made in the first half of the 1st cent. A.D., replaces the steep ancient track.

The tower-like pedestal on the left, below the Propylæa, once bore a Statue of M. Vipsanius Agrippa, the general and son-in-law of Emp. Augustus, erected between 27 and 12 A.D.

To the right of the Propylæa projects a bastion, 26 ft. high, from which a small flight of marble steps descends, stopping short of our staircase. On this bastion rises the *=Temple of Nike= (Athena Nike, erroneously called Nike Apteros), which was reconstructed with the ancient stones in 1835–6. Its date is uncertain (probably between 440 and 410 B.C.).

Like the Propylæa this little temple, 27 ft. long and 18 ft. wide, is built entirely of Pentelic marble. It stands on a basement of three steps, and is preceded at the E. and W. ends by a portico of four Ionic columns 13 ft. high. Above the tripartite architrave runs a sculptured frieze 85 ft. long and 18 inches high. At the E. end it represents a council of the gods, among whom are Athena with her shield (in the centre) and Zeus (sitting) next to her. On the sides are battles of the Greeks with the Persians (some of them mounted). At the W. end is a conflict between Greeks and Greeks. Only a few fragments of the roof have been found; it ended on the E. and W. in pediments which were unadorned. The entrance to the cella is formed by two pillars.

On the marble cornice of the temple bastion there once rose a Balustrade adorned with reliefs outside, and bearing a bronze railing. These admirable reliefs, remains of which are preserved in the Acropolis Museum (p. 520), represented goddesses of victory erecting trophies and presenting offerings in presence of Athenä.

The *VIEW from beside the Temple of Nike is justly celebrated. In the picturesque intermingling of land and sea we descry the bay of Phaleron (p. 528), the peninsula of Munychia, the Piræus (p. 494), Salamis, and its adjoining islet of Psyttaleia (p. 494). A little farther to the right, beyond the bay of Eleusis, appears the dome-like rock of Acro-Corinth, backed by distant mountains. To the right of this, but in the immediate foreground, rises the Pnyx Hill with its rock-steps. The plain is overgrown with fine old olive-groves. Above it rise Mt. Ægaleos and the hills of Megara. To the S.W., to the left of the tower-like monument of Philopappos, stretches the Saronic Gulf, bounded by Ægina, with Mt. St. Elias, and by the Argolic Mts. and the island of Hydra. To the left runs the Attic coast as far as the islet of Gaïdaronisi, off Cape Colonna.

The **=Propylæa=, the greatest secular edifice in ancient Athens, composed entirely of Pentelic marble, were erected in 437–432 B.C. by the architect Mnesikles. This highly artistic building consists of three parts—a central gateway with wings on the N. and S.

The CENTRAL BUILDING, ruined by an explosion in 1645, consists of a wall pierced with five openings and preceded by Doric colonnades on the E. and W. sides. Each colonnade has six columns in front, above which ran a frieze of triglyphs and metopes, crowned by a plain pediment. The W. Colonnade, to which three huge steps ascend, is 19 yds. wide and 17 yds. deep. Its front columns belong to the Doric order and consequently rise directly from the ground (stylobate), without bases; they are 29 ft. high, and each is fluted with twenty grooves separated by sharp edges. Behind the two central columns, which are 12½ ft. apart, and flanking the main passage there are on each side three slender Ionic columns, 33 ft. high, resting on their cushion-like bases, and grooved with twenty-four flutes separated by broad fillets. The ceiling was divided into sunk panels adorned with painting.

On the N. and S. sides the central building was bounded by massive walls, 17½ yds. long, ending in huge buttresses (antæ). Between these extended the Gateway proper consisting, as above remarked, of a wall with five openings. Five marble steps ascend to the threshold, composed of black Eleusinian stone, on which the side-gates rest. The broad central gateway is without steps. All the gateways were once provided with massive folding doors.

The E. Colonnade is as broad as the other, but only 23 ft. deep. Of its six Doric columns five still have their capitals, and two are connected with their architrave.

The well-preserved NORTH WING consists of a porch or vestibule, open towards the S., with three Doric columns between antæ, and an inner hall connected with it by a door and two windows. This was called the Pinakotheka, from its use as a receptacle for votive pictures (‘pinakes’) on marble or terracotta. The SOUTH WING, of which two columns and the back-wall only have been preserved, was never quite completed.

Passing through the E. Colonnade of the Propylæa we enter the INNER WARD of the Acropolis and ascend a gradual slope, now covered with profoundly impressive ruins. When we picture to ourselves the mighty Parthenon, on the right, and the exquisite Erechtheion on the left, in the full glory of their sculptures and colouring, surrounded by smaller sanctuaries and a forest of statues, we may well understand the enthusiastic pride of the Athenians in their unrivalled Acropolis.

From the central gateway of the Propylæa a broad pathway ascends along the main axis of the citadel. The rock has evidently been much cut away to facilitate the ascent, as we see from a glance at the rocky terrace on the right, which has a precipitous face 6½ ft. in height. Fragments of pedestals and square hollows in the rock indicate the ancient sites of numerous votive offerings.

The terrace of rock just mentioned, to which nine low steps ascend farther on, once bore the temple of Artemis Braurōnia, but is now strewn with beams and fragments of ceiling from the Propylæa (panels with traces of blue colouring). The terrace is bounded on the W. by a fragment of a broad wall belonging to the original Pelasgic fortifications (p. 512).—Another rock-terrace, about 2½ ft. higher, and also cut perpendicularly, to the E. of the Brauronion, is supposed to have been the place where, without any actual temple, Athena was worshipped as Ergánē, the mistress and inventor of every art. To the S. of this terrace we observe traces of walls which, together with the S. wall itself, seem to have formed a gigantic building. It was perhaps the Chalkotheka, an arsenal where not only implements of war but also bronze votive offerings, and other objects were kept. Towards the Parthenon the terrace had nine narrow steps on which votive offerings were deposited.

About forty paces from the Propylæa, straight on, we come to a large cutting in the rock, the supposed site of the bronze statue of Athena Promachos, about 26 ft. high, by Phidias, erected with the booty of Marathon. The goddess was represented in full armour, with shield and lance. The gilded point of the lance, gleaming in the sun, was a landmark for sailors rounding Cape Colonna. The principal roadway, once used by the festal processions, passes between the Erechtheion and the Parthenon to the E. front of the latter.

The **=Parthenon=, the most perfect monument of ancient art, once far surpassing all other Athenian buildings in the brilliancy of its plastic and polychrome decoration, and even in its ruins a marvel of majestic beauty, stands on the highest S. margin of the Acropolis precincts. On this site, as early as the middle of the 6th cent., a large temple was begun, adjoining the ancient Hekatompedon (p. 518), in poros or Piræan stone, and after the battle of Marathon down to the Persian occupation was continued in marble. In the time of Perikles, after 447, the whole edifice as it now stands was rebuilt in Pentelic marble. The architects were Iktinos and Kallikrates, but Perikles himself presided over the works and provided the funds. The external sculptures are attributed to Phidias and his pupils. The temple was probably opened for worship in 438, on the occasion of the erection of the statue of Athena at the Panathenæan Festival. This marvellous work must therefore have been completed within ten years. Its decoration alone included 98 columns, 50 life-size statues for the pediments, a frieze 524 ft. long, 92 metopes, and a gold and ivory figure of Athena 43 ft. high.

On the massive basement in three steps, whose Stylobate, or platform for the colonnade, measures 75½ by 33 yds., rise 46 Doric columns averaging 34 ft. high, eight at each end and seventeen on each side (the corner-columns being counted twice). On the abaci of the columns rests the undivided Architrave or Epistyle, above which runs a Triglyph Frieze, the most characteristic feature of the Doric order. This consists of triglyphs or triple grooves, alternating with metopes or flat spaces, which in this case are adorned with reliefs. Above the frieze is the geison, or lowest flat moulding of the cornice, while below each triglyph hang regulae (guttae, or drops), corresponding with drops above it. The triglyphs and drops were painted blue, the ground of the metopes blue or red, and the lower surface of the geison and the continuous moulding above the frieze and architrave red. The smooth spaces in front were left white, as were also the columns, with the exception of the four rings or annuli below the capitals.

The gable-roof rose at an angle of 13½°. At each end is a pediment, framing the tympanum, or receding space for statuary 91½ ft. long, 3 ft. deep, and in the centre 10½ ft. high. It was painted red at the back, so as to throw the statues into strong relief. The raised edges (simae) of the external members of the pediment, 18½ inches high, are intended to prevent the rain-water from escaping over the front; they were adorned with wreaths of foliage. The pediment was crowned with a boldly executed palmette, and at each corner was placed a golden oil-jar.—The roof, resting partly on timber and partly on stone framework, consisted of slabs of Parian marble 1¼ in. thick; it was edged with artistic antefixae, or hollowed tiles, between which the rain-water escaped. The lions’ heads at the ends of each side were purely ornamental.

The Cella, or sanctuary proper, enclosed by the outer colonnades, is raised two steps above the stylobate. At each end a portico is formed by six Doric columns, 33 ft. high, and by the projecting sides. Above the architrave, round the whole building ran a frieze, of which hardly any traces remain except on the W. side (comp. p. 517).—The porticos were closed by high bronze railings between the columns. From the E. portico massive folding doors led into the interior, which was divided by a partition into an eastern and a smaller western section. The former, the inner sanctuary, was known as the Hekatompedon, being ‘100 ft. long’ (comp. p. 518). It was divided into three aisles by two rows of Doric columns (9 in each). On a square of darker stone in the pavement stood the famous gold and ivory statue of Athena Parthenos by Phidias. The ceiling was of wood in lacunars, which were doubtless richly coloured. Light was admitted by the door alone. The walls were painted dark-red, but no adequate idea can now be formed of the original wealth of colouring.—Between the partition and the W. portico, which is supposed to have formed a kind of treasury (opisthodomos), lay the W. section of the cella, 14 yds. in depth, sometimes called the Parthenon in the narrower sense.

The crowning glory of the Parthenon consisted in its plastic decoration, executed under the direction of Phidias. Most of the sculptures still preserved were taken to London by Lord Elgin in 1802–3 and are now in the British Museum, but there are several others in the Acropolis Museum (see p. 519).

The E. Tympanum was devoted to the nativity of Athena. All that remains of its sculptures in their original position consists of two horses’ heads belonging to the chariot of the rising Helios, on the left, and remains of a horse’s head of the chariot of the setting Selene, on the right. In the W. Tympanum, which illustrated the victory of Athena over Poseidon in their contest for the possession of Attica, are still seen, near the left angle, a half-recumbent male figure, round whose neck is the arm of a kneeling woman (Æsculapius and Hygieia?), and in the right angle a female figure supposed to be Kallirrhoë (p. 512).

The Metope Reliefs are of inferior artistic value. Of the 92 there still exist the 28 at each end and 12 on the N. side. They represent the conflicts of the gods with the Giants (E.), of the Lapithæ and Athenians with the Centaurs (S.), of the Athenians with the Amazons (W.), and lastly the siege of Troy. The high relief in some cases assumes an almost entirely rounded form.

The masterpiece of Attic bas-relief is the *Frieze of the cella wall, 175 yds. long and 39 in. high. On the W. front the greater part of it has been preserved, but on the S. side there are only scanty fragments. Twenty-two slabs are now in the Acropolis Museum (see p. 519). The reliefs represented the festal procession in which every four years, at the close of the Panathenæa, the maidens of Athens presented the goddess with a magnificent woven robe. Over the chief entrance is the presentation of the robe to Athena; to the right and left of it are the assembled gods; on the sides and at the back are Athenians. The figures were executed in low relief of 2–2½ in. only, in order to prevent strong shadows being thrown by the light entering the covered hall from below. The effect was enhanced by painting and mountings in metal.

In the hollows on the S. side of the Parthenon, far below, may be traced the line of the Pelasgic Wall (p. 512), which was covered up when the terrace of the temple was formed. Excavations here, and notably also to the N.W. of the Erechtheion, brought to light a number of archaic statues and architectural fragments dating from the Persian destruction.

Near the N. margin of the Acropolis precincts, but in a slight depression, rises the **=Eréchtheion=, the temple of the tutelary goddess Athena Poliás and the other deities of the city. The building was probably begun soon after the Peace of Nikias (421), but only completed in 407 or after 400. It contained chambers for the cult of Athena and Poseidon Erechtheus, while the vestibule had an entrance to the salt-spring produced by Poseidon. But the temple is now sadly ruined, having served in the middle ages as a church and afterwards as a Turkish harem. Since 1902, however, the ancient fragments have been pieced together, and they now afford a fairly complete idea of the exterior of the building, which differed from that of the ordinary temples.

The nucleus of the edifice (24 by 12 yds.) rises on a threefold basement in steps, and the sanctuary was entered by three porticos (E., S., and N.) of charmingly varied type.

The E. Portico was formed by six Ionic columns in front, the northmost of which has been broken down. Their rich capitals bear the tripartite epistyle (p. 515); above it are dark blocks of stone to which the relief figures of the frieze were attached.

Between the E. portico and the Acropolis Wall twelve broad steps, partly modern, descend to the terrace of rock, about 10 ft. lower, on which stands the N. Portico. Its six columns display a still greater wealth of sculpturing than those of the E. portico. The ceiling is relieved by lacunars. The great main doorway is specially rich and well preserved. The three holes in the rock below the N. side of the N. colonnade were pointed out in ancient times as the indentations made by Poseidon’s trident during his contest with Athena for possession of Athens. Above them the pavement and roof were left open.—The W. façade of the temple, in front of which lay the Pandroseion, or shrine of Pandrosos, daughter of Cecrops, was originally articulated by four columns, resting upon a high parapet. The existing arrangement, of pilasters engaged in a wall with windows, dates from the Roman period.

The *Colonnade of the Caryatides at the S.W. angle is particularly charming. Instead of columns, six statues of virgins, over life-size (7½ ft.), placed on a parapet, support the roof, the weight of which they bear with ease and grace. The ancient Athenians called them simply the Korai (maidens). The second figure from the W. is a copy in terracotta; the one standing back in the E. row has been restored.

To the S. of the Erechtheion are the foundations (37½ by 14½ yds.) of the so-called =Hekatómpedon= (early 6th cent.), on the site of the palace of Erechtheus. The name (‘100 ft. long’) is evidenced by an inscription. Peisistratos and his sons embellished it with a colonnade. After its destruction by the Persians it was probably restored without the colonnade. Opinions differ as to its object and as to its history after the completion of the Erechtheion. It had a front (E.) chamber of three aisles and a narrow chamber at the back (W.), with two small rooms between them.

To the Palace of Erechtheus, the ancient residence of the Attic kings, belonged the foundations to the E. of the Erechtheion. So also did the poros (Piræan stone) bases of columns, lying opposite the S.E. angle of the colonnade of the Caryatides, 5 ft. lower; their extremely archaic form, with the shaft of the column embedded in the base, points to the Mycenæan period.

We now return to the Parthenon. To the E. of it once stood a small round Temple of the Goddess Roma and the Emp. Augustus, round the foundations of which lie fragments of its architrave. Opposite the N.E. corner of the Parthenon are the remains of a sacrificial altar of Athena.—At the S.E. angle of the precincts the huge masonry of the Kimonian Wall (p. 512) may be seen.

The =Belvedere= at the N.E. angle of the Acropolis affords the best survey of the city. To the S.E. are the columns of the Olympieion, with the distant Hymettos; nearer rises Hadrian’s Arch; in the foreground is the monument of Lysikrates; then the royal Palace and its gardens; beyond them are Lykabettos and the gable-shaped Pentelikon; in the town, a little to the left, shine the dazzling marble buildings of the Academy, the University, and the Library; to the N. of these runs the Patisia road; more to the left rises the lofty Metropolis Church, with the small Metropolis nestling beside it; in the centre of the N. slope of the Acropolis rises the Tower of the Winds; adjacent is the Bazaar with Hadrian’s Stoa; to the W. is the Theseion, and beyond it the Kephisos Valley with its olive-groves, and Mt. Parnes with its S. spur Mt. Ægaleos.

The *=Acropolis Museum=, erected in 1878, contains all the sculptures of the Acropolis, except those previously removed, and the yield of later excavations. Besides works of the golden age, it comprises valuable examples of the earlier periods of art. Adm., see p. 504.

From the VESTIBULE, containing antiques of various ages, we enter (left) Room I, where the chronological order begins.

ROOM I. Archaic sculptures in poros (6th cent.). Straight before us, No. 3. Bull attacked by two lions; above this, and by the right wall: 1, 2. Tympana with statues of Hercules (with traces of painting). By the window-wall: 9, 10. Deities enthroned, from a tympanum of the pre-Peisistrateian Hekatompedon (p. 518).

ROOM II. Remains of the tympanum groups in poros from the Hekatompedon just mentioned: 36. Hercules with the Triton; 35. Figure with three bodies (‘Typhon’); 40. Remains of two large serpents in poros stone, showing abundant traces of painting (comp. water-colour on the wall).

ROOM III. Figures (idols), tablets, and architectural fragments in terracotta, some with admirably preserved painting. Specially noteworthy, at the entrance, No. 67. A warrior (6–5th cent.).

ROOM IV. Fragments of marble sculptures; architectural ornaments in terracotta, poros, and marble, some of them painted. On the right, the tympanum figures from Peisistratos’s colonnade round the old Hekatompedon (p. 518): Athena fighting with the Giants.

ROOM V. Archaic marbles (6th cent.), incl. (on the right of the entrance) 624. Calf-Bearer (youth bringing a calf to the altar).

ROOM VI. Archaic *Draped Female Figures, erected in the Acropolis in the 2nd half of the 6th cent. as votive offerings, but buried in the rubbish after its destruction (480), also with interesting traces of painting. No. 681 is by Antenor, author of the tyrannicide group (comp. p. 506); No. 686 is the most recent.

ROOM VII. Later archaic marbles, notably (in the centre, under glass) No. 689. Beautiful head of a youth; also two graceful reliefs, 695. Athena, and 702. Hermes and three women—Above, along the walls, Metopes from the Parthenon (p. 517), few of them original; the finest, a Centaur carrying off one of the Lapithæ.

ROOM VIII. Sculptures from the Parthenon: Statues from the tympana and reliefs from the frieze, those in the British Museum being represented by casts. In the centre of the room a reconstruction of the tympanum groups, according to Furtwängler. By the wall on the right are remains of the E. tympanum (p. 517), two torsos only being originals. No. 880 (in the centre). Hephæstus; on the right, 881. Selene. Above are remains of the W. tympanum; in the centre, 885. Poseidon.

Most interesting of all is the better-preserved **Parthenon Frieze, of which nearly 28 yds. are almost entirely original (partly replaced by casts). To the right of the entrance, 856. Three deities, Aphrodite (?), Apollo, and Poseidon; below these, 857. Three youths with cows for sacrifice. Then, on the right, 877. Four women with silver or gold basins; 875. Three men with musical instruments. We note also several slabs from the procession of horsemen and chariots. To the right of the entrance, 860. Youth with sacrificial sheep.

ROOM IX. On the right, beautiful reliefs from the Nike balustrade (p. 513); in the centre of the front row, *973. Nike loosening her sandal. On the left, Nos. 1071–78. Fragments of the relief-frieze of the Erechtheion.

c. Walk from the Palace to the Theseion. Dipylon. Hill of the Nymphs. Pnyx. Monument of Philopappos.

The upper or E. end of the RUE D’HERMÈS (Pl. E-B, 5), which leads to the W. from the Place de la Constitution, is one of the chief business quarters of Athens. Among the wares sold in the shops here are Oriental silks and woollen stuffs and antiquities, the latter dear and sometimes spurious.

A few paces to the S. of the Rue d’Hermès rises the =Metropolitan Church= (Pl. E, 5), erected in 1840–55 with the materials of seventy smaller churches and chapels, and sumptuously fitted up in the interior. Adjoining it on the S. is the so-called *=Little Metropolis=, or church of Panagia Gorgópiko, of the early 9th cent., the oldest extant Byzantine edifice on Greek soil. The walls, composed of antique blocks of stone, contain many ancient and Byzantine sculptures.

Halfway along the Rue d’Hermès is the KAPNIKARÆA CHURCH (Pl. D, 5), a complex Byzantine building (9th cent.?). Just beyond it we cross the busy—

RUE D’EOLE (Pl. D, 6–3), the second main street of the old town, where men in Greek costume are often seen. Following it to the S., towards the Acropolis, and passing the Place Panteleēmon, we come to the old Bazaar (Pl. D, 5), where tailors, shoemakers, and smiths ply their crafts in their open workshops.

Adjoining the bazaar on the S. is =Hadrian’s Library= (Pl. D, 5), with its back to the Rue d’Eole, a massive edifice of 134 by 90 yds.

A gate (keys at the provision-shop opposite) leads from the Rue d’Eole into the quadrangle, once bordered with a colonnade. The columns still standing and the building in the middle are restorations. On the wall of the large hall on the E. side are seen the places where the bookshelves were attached, as in the Pergamon library.

On the W. side of the library, reached from the outside, still stands the N. half of the main façade, known as Hadrian’s Stoa. The marble wall is embellished with seven monolithic columns, 28 ft. high, with rich Corinthian capitals. An eighth column with the wall of the anta belonged to the colonnade of the chief portal.—Near this is the Stoa of Attalos (p. 521).

At the S. end of the Rue d’Eole rises the so-called =Tower of the Winds= (Pl. D, 6; custodian 20–30 l.), a well-preserved octagonal marble edifice of the 1st cent. B.C., more accurately named the Horológion of Andronikos of Kyrrhos. On the upper spaces of the eight walls, which are turned towards the different points of the compass, are reliefs representing the various winds; below are seen the lines of sun-dials. The round channels in the pavement inside, into which water flowed from a semicircular cistern outside, belonged to a water-clock.

Lanes and steps ascend here to the S. to a path skirting the N. slope of the Acropolis and leading to the right to its entrance (10 min.; p. 512).

A large paved quadrangle to the W. of the Tower of the Winds is supposed to have been a Roman Macellum (Agora or market). It is entered from the W. by the =Market Gate= (Porte de l’Agora; Pl. C, 6). Four slender Doric columns, 26 ft. high, support a massive architrave with a frieze of triglyphs and metopes and a fairly well preserved pediment. According to the inscription on the architrave the gateway was erected about the time of the birth of Christ. In line with the N. central column is a tablet of Hadrian’s age, inscribed with regulations about the prices of oil, salt, etc.

From the Market Gate we follow the Poikile Street to the W. to the Stoōn Street and descend the latter to the right. The second crooked side-street on the right then leads to the entrance (red door on the right; keeper 20 l.) of the =Stoa of Attalos= (Pl. C, 5, 6). This grand, two-storied market-hall was erected, as the inscription on the architrave, pieced together in front of the colonnade, records, by king Attalos II. of Pergamon (B. C. 159–138). It was 123 yds. long and 22 yds. deep, and formed the E. boundary of the Kerameikos market (p. 522). The groundfloor contained 21 closed chambers 16 ft. deep, in front of which ran a long colonnade. The traders probably had their stalls in the hall, while the closed rooms were used for storage.

We now descend to the N., across the railway cutting, to the Rue d’Adrien, follow the latter to the left for a hundred paces, and turn to the left (S.) into Eponymōn Street; here, on the left, sixty paces farther, is the Stoa of the Giants (Pl. G.; C, 5), a ruin so named from its three great Atlantes (beam-bearers).

A little farther to the W., on the ancient Kolonos Agoraeos (‘Hill of the Market’; see p. 522), rises the **=Theseion= (Pl. B, 5), the best-preserved of all the ancient Greek buildings. The massive construction, the lifelike sculptures, and the dark golden hue of the Pentelic marble are singularly impressive. The temple, commonly called Theseion, and converted into the church of St. George in the Christian period, is now supposed to have been dedicated to Hephaestos and Athena. The style of the building and its sculptures have led different authorities to assign its erection to a date a little before or a little after that of the Parthenon. At all events it was completed by 421 B. C., as an inscription records the setting up in that year of the two sacred images.

The temple stands on a marble basement in two steps, 35 by 15 yds., and is enclosed by 34 Doric columns, 18 ft. high, 6 at each end and 13 on each side (the corner-columns being counted twice). They are rather more slender than those of the Parthenon, and like them lean slightly inwards. Above the architrave, which is undivided, runs a Doric frieze of triglyphs and metopes, encircling the whole building. The metopes, however, are adorned with sculpture only on the main (E.) façade and the immediately adjoining spaces on each side. In front are depicted the exploits of Hercules, on the sides those of Theseus. The building is crowned with a cornice and pediments. The statuary of the tympana has disappeared.

The nucleus of the temple consists of the cella, 13 yds. long, at each end of which is a vestibule, formed by the antæ and two columns between them, and opening on to the colonnade. The E. vestibule now has a modern wall with a built-up door instead of the columns. The coffered ceiling on this side has been preserved intact. The W. vestibule retains its original aspect, except that a door has been broken through the wall at the back. The upper part of the cella wall is embellished, as in the Parthenon, with a relief-frieze (in Parian marble), which here, however, is limited to the two façades and the eastmost part of the sides. The E. part of the frieze represents a battle (between the Athenians and the Pelasgians?), witnessed by the gods. The W. frieze portrays the struggle of the Lapithæ and Athenians against the Centaurs.—The interior of the temple contains nothing of special interest.

Many Englishmen were buried within this temple in the Turkish period.

To the E. and N. of the Theseion lay the Kerameikos, or potters’ quarter, to which, in the 6th cent., the =Market= was transferred from the S.W. slope of the Acropolis. This, like the Forum at Rome, was the centre of classical Athens.

The market was adorned with statues of great poets and orators, such as Pindar and Demosthenes. Around it rose the chief public buildings. Among them were the Stoa Basileios (Pl. B, 5; seat of the Archon Basileus), the foundations of which (6th cent.) are supposed to have been discovered at No. 14 Poseidon Street.; also the Metroon, or temple of the mother of the gods, the Buleuterion, or town-hall, etc.

To the N.W. of the Theseion a bridge crosses the Piræus railway (p. 495) to the Theseion Station (Pl. B, 5). To the W. of this we reach the continuation of the Rue du Pirée. Following the latter for 150 paces to the N.E. towards the town, and just before reaching the conspicuous yellow and red chapel of Hagia Triáda or Trias (Pl. A, 4), we come to a gate on the right leading into the ancient cemetery at the Dipylon (small gratuity on leaving). Here we follow an ancient side-street, bordered with tombs, as far as the walls (see Pl. A, 4), which we skirt to the left. At their N.E. end we reach the outer Dipylon.

The =Dipylon= (Pl. B, 4), the only ancient ‘double gate’ of Athens (end of 4th cent.), was the chief entrance of the city. Here converged the roads coming from Megara in the Peloponnesus and Eleusis and from Platæa and Thebes in Bœotia; and from this gate ran the Dromos, a great colonnaded street, to the S.E., below the Theseion hill, to the Kerameikos market-place (p. 522). The left side of the gateway has wholly disappeared, but a few blocks, attached to their base, of the right (S.) wall are still visible. In front of these rises a considerable part of the S. gateway-tower. In the centre are traces of the pier between the two passages. This outer gateway was connected with an inner gateway, on precisely the same plan, by walls 38 yds. long, thus forming an enclosed court. The S.E. tower was adjoined on the E. by a well-house.

To the S.W. of the Dipylon the City Wall, here only 6½ ft. thick, has been brought to light. The carefully jointed blocks of blue limestone rest on the hastily built wall of Themistokles (479–478); the upper part was built of sun-dried brick. Outside this wall once rose a rampart, probably coeval with the Dipylon, 14 ft. thick, consisting of two walls with earth between. Beside the city wall, five paces to the S.W. of the Dipylon, is an ancient boundary-stone; seventy paces farther are remains of another gateway, probably the Funeral Gate. This, like the Dipylon, consisted of two gate-buildings, enclosing a court, though it had only a single passage. Through it, by the roadside, flowed the little brook Eridanos.

To the W. of the Dipylon, in the direction of the Hagia Triáda Chapel, we soon reach the *=Burial Ground outside the Dipylon=, the principal cemetery of ancient Athens. As at Rome and Pompeii the tombs bordered the highroads outside the gates. In this case the more durable monuments have been left by the excavators in their original positions. Some of these are artistically executed, others seem to have been merely rectangular walled spaces. In ancient days, as now, the ground was very uneven; some of the tombs close to the road were raised on terraces 5–8 ft. above it.

Before reaching the Hagia Triáda Chapel, we observe, on the left side of the road, two stelæ on Doric substructures, the tombs of Thersandros and Simylos (375 B. C.) and of Pythagoras (5th cent.). Ascending to the left beyond a depression in the soil we come to a temple-shaped tomb, with figures of Demetria and Pamphile, dating from the middle of the 4th century. Close to the Hagia Triáda Chapel is a large block of marble resembling a sarcophagus, the Tomb of Hipparete (middle of the 4th cent.).—To the left, on and beyond the stone wall of the side-street mentioned at p. 522, are rows of tombs, arranged in order of families and phylæ or tribes and extending down to the Roman period. At the corner is that of the family of Lysanias, with a *Relief of Dexileos on horseback, who distinguished himself before Corinth in 394–393; the weapons and bridle were added in bronze. Next come the tombs of the family of Agathon (4th cent.); that of his wife Korallion represents a family group; then a temple-shaped tomb, the interior of which was adorned with paintings now almost completely erased. Farther on is a monument crowned with a huge bull. In front of it is another little temple-like monument with traces of painting; then a great Molossian hound. Beyond it, a tomb-relief with a boat.—Opposite the hound is the *Tomb of Hegeso, perhaps the finest of all, a lady at her toilet attended by a maid (4th cent.). About twenty paces short of the keeper’s house, and thirty paces to the S. of the path, is a graceful Hydrophoros or female water-carrier (5–4th cent.).

* * * * *

The range of hills to the W. of the Acropolis and Areopagus, now uninhabited, was a favourite residential quarter of the ancient city, as is evidenced by countless remains of steps, cisterns, conduits, walls, and streets. From the Theseion (223 ft.) we ascend the broad AVENUE OF THE APOSTLE PAUL (Pl. B, 6), where, immediately on the right, rises the Hagia Marina Hill, thickly strewn with relics of ancient dwellings. Above it rises the Hill of the Nymphs, crowned with the Observatory (Pl. A, 6; 345 ft.).

To the S. of the Observatory a road descends into a slight hollow and then ascends the long =Pnyx Hill= (Pl. B, 7; 358 ft.), the structure on the N.E. slope of which is distinctly visible from the Areopagus and Acropolis. This consists of a terrace or platform, 131 yds. long and 71 yds. wide, the upper margin of which is cut out of the rock, while the lower part is buttressed by a massive wall of huge blocks of stone, forming a slightly flattened semicircle. In front of the abrupt back-wall of the terrace, about 13 ft. high, rise three steps bearing a cube of rock. This has been identified with the Pnyx, the place where, before the tiers of stone benches were erected in the theatre of Dionysos (p. 510), the Athenians held their political assemblies. The orator’s tribune (bēma) is supposed to have been attached to sockets on the platform in front of the cube of rock. The space occupied by the listening throng of citizens sloped gradually up to the supporting wall, which at that time was much higher. Above the cube once ran an upper terrace, where there rose a similar rock-altar, now much damaged. From this point we obtain a very striking view of the Acropolis.

To the S. of the Pnyx Hill, in a depression, is the chapel of Hagios Demetrios Lumpardiáris (Pl. B, 7), to the S. of which we now ascend the Philopappos Hill, the ancient Museion. On its crest we recognize many fragments of the ancient city-wall, which was joined by the Long Walls (p. 506) on the heights near the Monument and near the Observatory (see above).

The =Monument of Philopappos= (Pl. B, 8) was built in 114–16 A.D. The upper part, in Pentelic marble, two-thirds preserved, had a frieze in high relief, crowned with three niches separated by Corinthian half-columns. The statue seated in the central niche is that of Antiochos Philopappos; to the left is that of his grandfather Antiochos IV. Epiphanes (p. 507). The relief is supposed to represent the ceremonial progress of Philopappos in his consular capacity. The square chamber behind was the burial-place.

Very beautiful, especially at sunset, is the *VIEW FROM THE PHILOPAPPOS HILL. The Acropolis is visible in its full extent; at its base are the Odeion and the Theatre of Dionysos; to the right of these rise Hadrian’s Arch and the hills of the Stadion and Hymettos. To the left of the Acropolis are the Theseion and the Hill of the Nymphs, and beyond them the Athenian plain, bounded by Ægaleos, and Parnes. Above the Acropolis rise Mt. Lykabettos and part of Pentelikon. Towards the S. stretches the Saronic Gulf.

d. The Modern Quarters.

From the Place de la Constitution two broad streets lead to the N.W. to the Place de la Concorde: the RUE DU STADE (Pl. F-D, 5–3) and the Boul. de l’Université. In the former, immediately to the right, are the Royal Stables; then on the left, standing a little back, the Parliament House (Pl. E, 5).

In the BOULEVARD DE L’UNIVERSITÉ the first house on the right (Pl. S.; F, 5), is that of Dr. Schliemann (1822–90), the famous discoverer of Troy, Mycenæ, and Tiryns. Farther on on the right are also the Roman Catholic Church (Pl. F, 4) and the—

*=Academy of Science= (Pl. F, 4), built of Pentelic marble in 1859–84. The style is classic Grecian, with Ionic porticos, tympana embellished with sculptures, and rich colouring, thus resembling a classic edifice in its palmy days. The tympanum group of the main building (birth of Athena) and the statues of Plato (left) and Socrates (right), opposite the entrance, are by Drosos.

From the vestibule a passage to the right, descending a few steps, leads to the Numismatic Museum (adm., p. 504), containing a valuable collection of coins, chiefly from countries influenced by Grecian civilization.

Adjacent is the =University= (Pl. F, 3, 4), founded in 1837. It also has an Ionic portico and is enriched with colouring. The organization is similar to that of the German universities. There are about a hundred professors and lecturers and 2800 students. The buildings contain also the natural history collections.

The adjacent =Library= (Pl. E, 3; National and University, united in 1903), a handsome edifice in Pentelic marble, contains 314,000 vols, and 2530 MSS.

The Rue du Stade and the Boulevard de l’Université cross the Rue d’Eole (p. 520) and its prolongation the Rue de Patisia (see below) and end at the PLACE DE LA CONCORDE (Plateia tēs Omoneias; Pl. D, 2, 3; tramways, p. 503), planted with trees and much frequented in the evening. From its S. side runs the Rue d’Athéna (Pl. D, 3–5) and from its S.W. angle the Rue du Pirée (Pl. D-A, 3, 4; fine view of the sea in the evening). To the W. runs the Rue Constantin, with the handsome new Constantine Church (Pl. C, 2) and the new National Theatre opposite (p. 504). At the end of it the road to the Peloponnesus Station (p. 502) bends round to the right.

In the RUE DE PATISIA (Pl. D, E, 2, 1), near the outskirts of the town, on the right, are the Polytechnic and the National Museum.

The =Polytechnic Institute= (Pl. E, 1), built in 1858 of Pentelic marble, consists of a two-storied central edifice in the Doric and Ionic styles and two Doric wings. The upper floor of the main building contains the Historical and Ethnological Museum (adm., see p. 504), a collection of memorials of the Greek war of independence, costumes, etc.—Beyond the next side-street is the Museum.

e. The National Archæological Museum.

The **National Archaeological Museum (Pl. E, 1), erected in 1866–89, contains the collections of antiquities belonging to the state (other than those of the Acropolis, Olympia, Delphi, etc.). Adm., see p. 504. In the central rooms are exhibited the Mycenæan and Egyptian antiquities, in the left (N.) wing the marble sculptures, in the E. annex the bronzes, and in the S. wing the vases.

From the Vestibule we go straight into the central building.

*ROOM OF THE MYCENÆAN ANTIQUITIES (about B.C. 1500–1000; comp. p. 416). The cases Nos. 1–41 in the middle contain the objects found in the richly furnished royal tombs in the citadel of Mycenæ, the traditional burial-place of Agamemnon and his family. They comprise trinkets, bronze weapons, vessels and utensils of gold, silver, and clay, etc.; thus, in stands 20 and 24 are golden masks used to cover the faces of the dead bodies, in stand 27 a double-handled beaker with doves, like that of Nestor described by Homer. The five reliefs on limestone slabs (Nos. 51–55), in the centre of the side-walls, were found above the tombs. No. 50, a case in the centre, shows the 6th tomb exactly as when discovered in 1878.

The other cases contain relics of the same period from Mycenæ, and also, of rather later date, from other places in Greece, where the tombs were more plainly fitted up. At the end of the room, on columns: *1758, *1759. Gold goblets from Vaphio (near Sparta), with lifelike embossed scenes of browsing cattle and a bull-hunt. In the centre, in the detached glass-case No. 4, are chased and inlaid *Daggers.

Adjacent, straight on, is the EGYPTIAN ROOM.

We return to the Vestibule and enter the N. wing, containing the =Marble Sculptures=.

ROOM OF ARCHAIC ART (7–6th cent.). To the left in the ante-room, No. 1. Female Statue (votive offering of Nikandre, primitive), and Nos. 6, 57. Female seated Statues; in the chief room are the so-called Apollo Figures, nude, some of them probably of deceased persons exalted into heroes; of this series No. 10, by the right wall, and Nos. 1904 and 9, by the left, are followed by many others, progressive in style. Also in the chief room, in front of the column on the right, No. 21. Winged Nike. By the right wall, 2687, 1959. Tomb Stelae. By the left pillar at the entrance, and also to the left farther on, 30, 86. Painted Stelae, and 29. Stela of Aristion, with the painted relief of a warrior.

ROOM OF THE ATHENA (5–4th cent.). In the centre, 129. Varvakion Statuette, a copy in marble, 39 inches high, of the ivory and gold statue of Parthenos by Phidias (p. 516), appearing somewhat heavy in its reduced size, as the original was intended to be viewed from a distance.—To the left of the entrance, *126. The Eleusinian Relief, Demeter and Kore presenting the young Triptolemos (father of husbandry) with grains of corn (5th cent.). By the pillar, 177. Female ideal head.—Left wall, 178. Boar’s Head, and 179, 180. Heads of Youths, probably by Skopas; *181. So-called Eubuleus, resembling the Hermes of Praxiteles; 182. Head of Aphrodite; 159–161. Three graceful figures of Nike.—Wall of exit, 128. So-called Lenormant’s statuette of Athena, another copy of Phidias’s Parthenos, more faithful in detail (base, shield, etc.) than the Varvakion statuette; 1783. Votive Relief, two-sided.—By right wall, 136–174. Sculptures and architectural fragments from the temple of Æsculapius at Epidauros (4th cent.).

ROOM OF THE HERMES (5–4th cent.). Left wall, 218. So-called Hermes of Andros, similar to that of Praxiteles; to the left of it, 221, 222. Frieze from Lamia, a procession of Tritons, Nereids, and Cupids; to the right, *215–217. Marble Pedestal from Mantinea, with the contest between Apollo and Marsyas, of the school of Praxiteles. Then, in front of the pilaster, 1733. Square Pedestal, probably by Bryaxis (4th cent.).—In the right half of the room are four works by Damophon (2nd cent. B.C.), from Lykosura: to the left of the entrance, 1736. Head in the style of the Zeus of Otricoli in Rome; on the right and left of the exit, two female heads; near the former, 1737. Fragment of drapery, with grotesque ornamentation. Also in front of the window-wall, *1463. Triangular Tripod Base, with Dionysos and two female figures, of the school of Praxiteles. By the window-wall, 1561–1583. Sculptures from the Heræon at Argos (about 400 B. C.), incl. No. 1571, a fine female head.

Straight on, we pass through the Poseidon Room to the (left)—

ROOM OF THEMIS. Right wall, 231. Colossal statue of Themis (about 300 B. C.).—Two marble statues found in 1900–1 among others at the bottom of the sea in the strait of Kythera: one, by the wall of entrance, a wrestler, about to kneel (Hellenistic style); the other, in the right corner, figure of a youth, coated with shells.

ROOM OF POSEIDON (Hellenistic and Roman periods). By the entrance, 235. Colossal figure of Poseidon.—In the centre, 261. Maenad asleep.—By the left wall, 239. Satyr, from Lamia; 240. Hermes of Atalante; 244. Youth, from Eretria (head recalling the Hermes of Praxiteles); 234. Colossal head of Athena; 243. Hermes with the Ram; 262. Aphrodite, with transparent drapery.—To the right of the exit, *247. Celtic Warrior, fallen in battle, recalling the Pergamenian groups.—Right side, 1826. Copy of the Diadumenos of Polykleitos; 252, 251. Statuettes of Pan; 257. Silenos, with the young Dionysos on his left shoulder; 258. Æsculapius.

ROOM OF THE KOSMETÆ. To the left of the entrance, 249. Hadrian; right, 420. Head with long hair and Semitic features (recalling heads of Christ).—Near the exit, 417, 418. Antinous.—Near the left wall, 384–416. Hermæ and heads of Kosmetae (officials of the Ephebic gymnasia of Athens), of the early centuries A. D.—Mosaic from the Piræus.

THREE ROOMS OF TOMB RELIEFS, chiefly of the golden age of Greek art.—ROOM OF TOMB VASES, massive marble vases of the Greek ages, mostly tall slender lekythi (for perfumes) and amphoræ.—ROOM OF THE SARCOPHAGI and of sepulchral decorations of the Greek and Roman ages.

To the left is the annex containing the =Bronzes=.

I. BRONZE ROOM. In the centre, 13,396. Statue of a Youth, over life-size, stretching out his right hand, a good work of the 4th cent., (reconstructed); this is the finest of the sculptures found in the strait of Kythera.—To the right of the entrance, Archaic Bronzes from the Acropolis, votive offerings, implements, and utensils, mostly found in the rubbish left by the Persians (p. 506); the finest are Nos. 6447, 6448. Statuettes of Athena, 6445. Statuette of a youth; 6446. Bearded head, with eyes inserted.—To the left, Bronzes from Olympia, primitive and archaic little figures of animals and men, weapons, and implements; on columns, 6439. Realistic head of an athlete (Hellenistic), 7474. Statuette of a youth.

II. BRONZE ROOM, containing bronze Figurines, Statuettes, Implements, and Utensils (vases, lamps, mirrors, helmets, strigils, bracelets, rings, brooches, surgical instruments).—To the left of the entrance of the next room, 11,761. Statue of Poseidon (early 5th cent.).

III. BRONZE ROOM (rotunda) contains the other bronzes found in the strait of Kythera (comp. R. I). To the right of the entrance, 13,399. Figure of a youth, in the style of the older Argive school, still on its old pedestal; 13,397 and 13,398. Statuettes of youths; 13,400. Hellenistic head.

We return to the Sarcophagus Room and pass to the left through the ROOM OF THE ROMAN TOMB RELIEFS to the—

ROOM OF THE VOTIVE RELIEFS. By the entrance wall and on the left are votive reliefs from the Asklepieion (p. 511). The most elaborately executed is No. 1377, near the middle of the left wall (4th cent.); adjacent is No. 2565, in the form of a stele.—The KARAPANOS ROOM is chiefly devoted to relics from the Zeus oracle at Dodona.

On the S. side of the museum is the =Collection of Vases=. The finest are mostly from Attica, the chief seat of the vase-painting of the 6–4th cent., such as the Black-figured Vases, with their silhouette-like figures painted in black (6th cent.; ROOM I, cabinets 13–23); the Red-figured Vases, vessels entirely covered with a black glaze, the figures alone, on their original red ground, remaining free (after middle of 6th cent.; ROOM II); and the Lekythi, slender vessels for perfumes, with coloured figures on a white ground (after the Persian wars; ROOM III, cabinets 41–50).

Adjacent are three front-rooms containing the =Terracottas=, including fine sets of figurines of the best period (5–4th cent.). In the last room are exhibited also antique trinkets and vessels.

f. Walks.

The ascent of =Lykabettós= (909 ft.), the finely shaped hill to the N.E. of Athens, is specially attractive by early morning or late evening light. We diverge to the N. from the Rue de Képhisia at the end of the palace-garden (Pl. G, 5), cross the Kolonáki Square (Pl. G, H, 5), and in 6 min. reach the reservoir of the Water Conduit of Hadrian, now utilized anew (Pl. H, 4; 445 ft.), where there is a small café commanding a fine view. Hence we proceed to the Lukianos Street, from the N. end of which an easy path ascends through young plantations. After the first zigzags a level path (Pl. H, 3) diverging to the left affords almost finer views than the top of the hill. The path straight on ascends to the Georgios Chapel (Pl. H, 3) on the summit in ½ hr. more.

The view embraces the city of Athens, with the Acropolis and the Attic plain, the Piræus, the bay of Phaleron, and the Saronic Gulf, with Ægina and Salamis and the distant mountains of Argolis; to the right of Salamis are the hills of Corinth and Megara; in the foreground, concealing the bay of Eleusis, rises Mt. Ægaleos; farther to the N. is Mt. Parnes. Between the latter and Pentelikon, which rises to the N.E., extends the upper plain of Attica. To the E. is Mt. Hymettos.

A fine view of Athens and the Acropolis is obtained also from the =Kolōnós= hill, the legendary home of Sophocles. From the Place de la Concorde (Pl. D, 2, 3) we follow the tramway to Kolokythu (comp. Pl. A, 1) and reach the hill in ½ hr.; it rises to the right of the road and is recognized by the conspicuous monuments of the antiquarians Otfried Müller (d. 1840) and Chas. Lenormant (d. 1859). Adjacent lay the AKADEMEIA, the grove where Plato taught.

The most popular resort on fine summer evenings is =New Pháleron= (tramway and Piræus railway, see p. 503), on the bay of Phaleron. A band plays in the evening on the broad coast-terrace, with its cafés and bath-houses (bath 40 l.).—A branch of the tramway runs to the quieter sea-baths of OLD PHALERON (comp. p. 503).—The Piraeus, see p. 494.

80. From Athens viâ Smyrna to Constantinople.

545 M. STEAMERS (agents at the Piræus, see pp. 494, 495; at Smyrna, p. 531; at Constantinople, pp. 538, 539). =1.= North German Lloyd (comp. RR. 23, 24, 77), Mediterranean & Levant Service, in either direction every other Thurs.; from the Piræus to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 2–2½ days (fare to Smyrna 40 or 28, to Constantinople 72 or 48 marks).—=2.= Messageries Maritimes (comp. RR. 23, 77), N. Mediterranean service, from the Piræus every other Mon. (from Constantinople Thurs.), to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 2 days (fare 90 or 60 fr.); also the Marseilles, Constantinople, and Batum line, from the Piræus Thurs. (from Constantinople Tues.), to Smyrna in 1, to Constantinople in 3 days (fare 80 or 40 fr.).—=3.= Khedivial Mail Steamship Co. (comp. R. 76), from the Piræus Frid. (from Constantinople Tues.) aft., to Smyrna in 18 hrs., to Constantinople in 2 days (fare 52 or 39, and 91 or 61 fr.).—=4.= Austrian Lloyd (comp. R. 78), Greek-Oriental Line, from the Piræus Frid. even, (from Constantinople Mon.), to Smyrna in 2, to Constantinople in 5 days (fares 54 or 38, and 132 or 93 fr.).

Line XI of the Società Nazionale (pp. 493, 563) touches at Smyrna on the outward voyage only (Piræus to Constantinople 3½ days).

TO CONSTANTINOPLE DIRECT. =1.= Rumanian Mail Line, from the Piræus Sun. aft., in 24 hrs. (returning from Constantinople Frid. aft. in 23 hrs.).—=2.= Società Nazionale, Line XII, from the Piræus Thurs. night, in 32 hrs. (returning from Constantinople Wed. foren., in 31 hrs.); fares 101 fr. 30, 70 fr. 70 c.—=3.= Austrian Lloyd, fast steamers between Trieste and Constantinople, from the Piræus Sat. aft., in 35 hrs. (from Constantinople Sat. foren., in 29 hrs.); fare 90 or 60 fr.

Athens and the Piraeus, see pp. 502, 494. We first steer to the S.E. across the Bay of Ægina (p. 494), past the three pinnacles of Cape Zostēr, the southmost spur of Hymettos, and near the islets of Phleva (ancient Phabra; lighthouse) and Gaïdaronisi.

Beyond Cape Colonna or Kolonnaes (ancient Sunion), on which the columns of the temple of Poseidon are conspicuous, opens the Strait of Kea, between (left and right) the lonely Makronisi (922 ft.; ‘long island’; ancient Helena) and the fertile island of Kea (1863 ft.; formerly Keos), with its lighthouse on the headland of Hagios Nikolaos. On the left are the Petali Islands (Petaliae Insulae) in the bay of that name, and Hagios Elias (5264 ft.), the S. point of Euboea.

We next steer through the Straits of Doro (7½ M. in width; Ital. Canal d’Oro), where a strong N.E. current prevails and storms are frequently encountered. They lie between Eubœa and Andros (3199 ft.; 156 sq. M.), the largest of the Cyclades (p. 492), with the lighthouse on Cape Fassa. Beyond them we are in the open sea.

Halfway between Andros and Chios (p. 492) are the Kalogeros Cliffs, belonging to Greece. Most of the vessels leave them to the right and steer to the E.N.E. to the passage between the rocky island of Psara (ancient Psyra; notable for the revolt of the modern Greeks against the Turks) and Chios, with the bold and conspicuous Mt. Hagios Elias (4134 ft.; Pelinnaeon) at its N. end. To the N. appears the S. coast of Mytilini (p. 533).

Beyond the N. end of the Straits of Chios (p. 492) the Levant steamers (RR. 75, 76) round the steep limestone rocks of the Anatolian peninsula of Kara Burun, with the Boz Dagh (3920 ft.; ancient Mimas), and come in sight of the *=Gulf of Smyrna=, the ancient Sinus Hermaeus, which runs 34 M. inland. The entrance between (right and left) the headlands Kinlu Burun and Arslan Burun (Greek Cape Hydra) is 15 M. broad.

On the left, to the S. of Arslan Burun, near the islets of Drepanon and Oglak (lighthouse), lies the little bay of Phokia (Turk. Foja). This was the ancient Phocaea, the northmost Ionian town, whose bold mariners first opened up the W. Mediterranean to the Greeks (comp. p. 121). Farther to the S., beyond Cape Myrminghi (lighthouse), is the new estuary of the Gedis Chai (Hermos), flanked with swampy alluvial soil and salt-works.

After rounding the island of Kiösteni (Gr. Makronisi), which lies in front of the E. slope of the Boz Dagh (see above) and masks the Bay of Gülbagcheh, we sight to the S., beyond the Marathusa Islands, the houses of Hagios Joannes (quarantine station), on an islet in the Bay of Vurlá. Here once lay the Ionian town of Klazomenae. The plain of Vurlá is famed for its wine and ‘Smyrna figs’.

Opposite the hills of the ‘Two Brothers’ (Dyo Adelphia, Turk. Iki Kardash; 3252 ft.) we pass the narrow old channel of the Gedis Chai (lighthouse). On a peninsula on the right lies the Turkish Fort Sanjak Kalesí; farther on is the suburb of Göz Tepeh (p. 532). To the N.E. the imposing Yamanlar Dagh (p. 533) and the lofty Manissa Dagh (5905 ft.; ancient Sipylos) beyond it become more conspicuous. To the S. of the latter is a depression, beyond which rises the Takhtaly or Nif Dagh. Beside the sea rises the Pagos (p. 532) with its old walls and many cypresses. On its slopes, far to the S.W. and N.E., extends Smyrna.

* * * * *

=Smyrna.=—ARRIVAL. As soon as permission to land is obtained the hotel-agents, guides, and boatmen come on board. Landing or embarkation, with baggage 1½ fr., but 2–3 fr. when the steamer anchors in the outer roads. As to the examination at the Custom House (Pl. B, 3), comp. p. 537. The porter (hamál) expects a few silver piastres.

HOTELS. *Gr.-Hôt. Kraemer Palace (Pl. c; B, 3), Passage Kræmer (p. 532), with American bar, etc., R. 6–20, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 12–25 fr.; *Gr.-Hôt. Huck (Pl. a; B, 4), on the quay, nearly opposite the Douane, pens. 10–25 fr.; Hôt. de la Ville (Pl. b; B, 3; Ital. host), on the quay, pens. 10–12, D. 3 fr. (in the season, March-May, rather dearer).

CAFÉS (all on the quay). Kraemer, see above (also restaurant, beer, etc.); Klonaridis, in the Hôt. de la Ville; Café Costi, Café High Life, both Quai Anglais, etc.

POST OFFICES. British (Pl. 9; C, 4); French (Pl. 8; B, 4); etc.—TELEGRAPH OFFICES. Turkish and Eastern Telegraph Co., on the quay, adjoining the Douane (1st floor).

CABS at the hotels and railway-stations (bargain necessary). Drivers often ignorant and exorbitant. Drive 1 fr. to ½ mejidieh, hr. 1 mej.; ½ day about 2 mej.—HORSES in the Place Fassulah (Pl. C, 3), about 2 mej. per day.

TRAMWAY from Konak (Pl. A, 6) along the quay to Punta Station (Gare de la Pointe; Pl. E, 2), 7 metalliks; from Konak to Göz Tepeh (p. 532), 4 metalliks.

LOCAL STEAMERS to Kordelio, Göz Tepeh, etc.

STEAMBOAT AGENTS (offices all on the quay). North German Lloyd, Van der Zee (also for German Levant Line); Austrian Lloyd, Pussich; Khedivial Mail, Cohen; Messageries Maritimes, D. G. Alevra; Società Nazionale, Fratelli Missir; German Levant Line, Milberg; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Bégléry.

BANKS. Banque Ottomane (Pl. B, 4); Crédit Lyonnais, Rue Franque (p. 532); Banque de Salonique and Banque d’Athènes.—MONEY CHANGERS in front of the Hôt. Huck and the Hœnischer Passage (Pl. B, 3, 4); a charge of 2–5 metalliks is made, according to amount. Perforated coins should be rejected.

CONSULATES. British: consul-general, H. D. Barnham; vice-consul, _C. E. Heathcote Smith_.—United States (Pl. 3; C, 3): consul-general, _E. L. Harris_; vice-consul, E. A. Magnifico.

ENGLISH CHURCH (Pl. E, 2), near Gare de la Pointe.

Smyrna, Turk. Izmir, the seat of the vali or governor of the Turkish province of Aidin, lies in 38° 26′ N. lat. and 27° 9′ E. long., in a bay between Sanjak Kalesí (p. 530) and the Punta (La Pointe; Pl. D, E, 1). As all the older harbours on the W. coast of Asia Minor have been choked by alluvial deposits, Smyrna has developed into the chief seaport of Anatolia and the largest city in Turkish Asia after Damascus. Population, excl. suburbs, about 200,000, incl. over 100,000 Greeks, 60,000 Turks, 20,000 Jews (p. 542), 12,000 Armenians, and 15,000 Europeans and Levantines. The chief languages are Greek, French, and Italian.

Smyrna was founded in the 11th cent. B.C. on the N. side of the bay of Burnabad (p. 533), about 2 M. to the N. of the present city. The Ionians of Colophon (p. 491) captured it for the sake of its trade in the 7th cent. and added it to their league of twelve cities. About 575 B.C. it was taken by the Lydian king Alyattes, who destroyed it and settled its inhabitants in villages. A new Smyrna, as planned by Alexander the Great, was founded later on the Pagos (p. 532) by the diadochi Antigonos and Lysimachos, and soon developed into one of the finest towns in Asia Minor. After the havoc wrought by terrible earthquakes in 178 and 180 A.D. the emperor Marcus Aurelius caused it to be rebuilt. For a time it was wrested from the Byzantine emperors by Turkish pirates (1084) and the Seljuks (p. 542). During the Latin domination in Constantinople (p. 542) Smyrna remained under the sceptre of the Greek emperor at Nikæa. In 1344 the Genoese and the Knights of St. John took the city under their protection, but in 1402 they were unable to save it from the ravages committed by Timur (p. 485), nor could they in 1424 prevent its capture by the Osmans. This ‘eye of Asia Minor’, as the Turks have called Smyrna, has risen to wonderful prosperity of late years.

The quays were built in 1868–80 and at the same time the HARBOUR, of 50 acres only, was protected by a breakwater 1400 yds. long and 19 yds. in breadth. The entrance is between the N.E. end of this breakwater and the N. pier (Pl. B, 3, 4) near the passport-office, passengers’ custom-house, and telegraph office. The local steamers (p. 531) are berthed between the N. and the S. mole (Pl. A, 4, 5; chief custom-house).

The great business thoroughfare is the QUAY STREET (Greek Prokymaea, Ital. Marina), over 2 M. long, skirting the Frank quarter (see below). In the S. part of this street, among the motley throng of sailors, dock-labourers, and traders of every nation, are often seen picturesque trains of camels, headed in some cases by a donkey. The N. part of the quay, with its theatres, cafés, and many handsome dwelling-houses, is of an entirely different character.

From the quay several alleys, the Kræmer Passage, the Hœnischer Passage (Pl. B, 3, 4), and others, and the busy street Galatzo Sokak (Pl. B, C, 3) lead to the Frank Quarter. The main streets here, running parallel with the quay, are the so-called Parallel St., the Quai Anglais (Turk. Eski Balik Basar; Pl. B, C, 3, 4), the Maltese quarter, and above all the FRANKS’ STREET, in sections bearing different names (Rue des Verreries, Rue Franque, Rue Trassa, etc.), and lined with many European and other shops.

To the E. of Rue Franque, passing the Rom. Cath. cathedral of St. Jean (Pl. C, 4), we come to the Greek Quarter, to which the lively streets Bella Vista (Pl. D, 2) and Oroman Sokak (Pl. D, 2, 3) also lead. The Greek Cath. cathedral of Hagia Photinē or Aï Fotini (Pl. B, 4) lies near the S.W. end of the Franks’ Street.

A little beyond Aï Fotini the street ends at the *BAZAAR (Pl. B, 5; open till sunset), which vies in its picturesque variety with the Great Bazaar of Constantinople. Smyrna carpets, mostly from the interior, old embroidery, and modern silks may be bought here at reasonable prices. The so-called antiquities, however, are generally spurious. The bazaar is within the Turkish Quarter, on the site of ancient Smyrna, with its quiet streets ascending the Pagos (see below), and extending to the S.W. to the Moslem and the old Jewish Cemeteries. Near these, but difficult to find, are traces of the temples of Asklepios and Vesta (Pl. A, 7). Within the Turkish quarter lies the very unsavoury Jewish Quarter (Pl. B, C, 5, 6).

From the church of Aï Fotini we may walk through the Armenian Quarter, past the Armenian cathedral of St. Etienne (Pl. C, 5) and the Basma Khâné Station (Pl. D, 5), to the Caravan Bridge (Pl. E, 5), which the busy traffic with the interior crosses.

From the Moslem cemeteries (Pl. A, B, 7) mentioned above, or from the Caravan Bridge, we ascend in ½ hr. to the top of the *PAGOS (525 ft.), which affords a superb view of the city, the bay, and the hills around. The extensive outer wall of the old Castle, dating from the Byzantine and Genoese periods, consists partly of the substructures and masonry of the Acropolis of king Lysimachos (p. 531). Of the Roman Theatre (Pl. C, D, 6, 7) and the Stadion (Pl. B, C, 7; p. 509) on the hill-side hardly a trace is left.

*EXCURSIONS. To Göz Tepeh (p. 530) by tramway or by local steamer (p. 531).—By local steamer or by railway (from the Basma Khâné Stat., see p. 532) to Kordelio (cafés; sea-baths), a little town prettily situated among gardens on the N. bank of the bay. From the steamer, to the E. of the Punta (p. 531), we see the Bay of Burnabad and the plain of that name, beyond which, on the Yamanlar Dagh (3202 ft.), is the site of Ancient Smyrna (p. 531).

* * * * *

Leaving Smyrna the STEAMER passes the Kara Burun (p. 530) and usually steers to the W.N.W. out to sea. Astern we obtain a fine view of Chios. We soon skirt the beautiful S. coast of =Mytilini= or Mitylene (3084 ft.; ancient Lesbos; 673 sq. M.), the largest island in the Ægean Sea, and pass the narrow entrance of the far-penetrating Bay of Kalloni. Beyond Cape Sigri (Sigrium Promontorium) and the islet of Megalonisi (lighthouse) we sight the distant coast of Troas (see below).

Some of the vessels, beyond Arslan Burun (p. 530), steer to the N., close to the Anatolian coast, and past the finely varied scenery, of the Bay of Chandarli, the ancient Sinus Elaeates. On the N. bank of that bay, to the W. of the estuary of the Bakyr Chai (once Kaïkos), rises the Kara Dagh (2559 ft.; Cane Mons).

Beyond Cape Maltepe, a spur of Kara Dagh, and the Hagios Georgios Islands opens the Strait of Mytilini, 9 M. wide, lying between the island and the coast of ancient Mysia. On the right, far inland from Kabakum Bay, we sight the hills near Bergama, the famous Pergamum of the Greeks. On the hill-side to the left, beyond Cape Malea, the S.E. point of the island, lies Mytilini or Kastro (Turk. Midüllü), its capital, with a Genoese castle.

At the N. end of the strait, beyond the entrance to the harbour of Aivaly (Gr. Kydonia), and the Moshonisia Islands (Hekatonesoi), opens to the N.E. the broad Bay of Edremid (Adramyti), on which rises Kaz Dagh (5807 ft.), the ancient Ida. We next steer to the W. through the Muselim Sound, between the N. coast of Mytilini and the S. coast of Troas or the Troad, where once rose the loftily situated stronghold of Assos.

After passing cape Baba Burnu (Lectum Promontorium), the S.W. point of Troas, we follow the course of the direct steamers from Smyrna, past Cape Eski Stambul (‘Old Stambul’), the site of Alexandreia Troas, a town of the Diadochi, and through the Strait of Tenedos (3 M. broad). The island of Tenedos, famed in the Trojan wars, now abounding in windmills, rises in a trachytic double peak to a height of 627 ft.

At the N. end of the strait lies the islet of Gaïdaronisi (lighthouse). Far away to the W., in clear weather, we descry the island of Limnos (ancient Lemnos); to the N.W., beyond Imbros, towers the mountain-mass of Samothrake (5250 ft.).

Beyond Besika Bay, in front of which lie the volcanic islands of Tavshan Adalar (‘rabbit-islands’; once Kalydnae or Lagussae), we pass the hills bordering the W. side of the plain of Troy, the legendary scene of the Homeric battles. Between Hagios Dimitrios Tepeh (hill of St. Demetrius) and the Greek village of Yenishehr is the site of Sigeum or Sigeion. Near it the tumuli of ‘Achilles and Patroklos’ were the burial-places of that Athenian colony.

We now near the strongly fortified =Dardanelles= (p. xxxiv), the ancient Hellespont, now named after the ancient town of Dardanos (see below). The straits connect the Ægean Sea with the Sea of Marmora, a distance of 37½ M., and average ¾–4¾ M. in breadth, and 160–295 ft. in depth. They intersect a tableland, 820–925 ft. in height, of tertiary formation (yellow marl and marl-limestone of the upper miocene). The surface current (p. 557), sometimes setting as in the Bosporus at the rate of 5 M. an hour, causes serious difficulty to sailing-vessels, especially if wind and tide are both against them.

At the S.W. entrance to the Dardanelles, scarcely 2½ M. broad, lies a village on the Asiatic side with the ruined fortress of Kum Kaleh (light); opposite, on the Peninsula of Gallipoli, the ancient Thracian Chersonesus, is the fort of Sidd el-Bahr Kalesí.

Beyond Kum Kaleh we sight to the S., rising above the marshy plain of the Mendere Chai (Skamander), the low hill which was once the site of Troy (near Hissarlik), with the débris of the excavations. On the shore, to the W. of the mouth of the stream, lay the landing-place of the Greeks.

Passing the site of Dardanos (on the right) we soon reach the narrowest part of the straits (about 1475 yds.), commanded by the Dardanelles Castles built by Mohammed II. in 1470, with their new earthworks. On the European side is the picturesque Kilid Bahr (‘key of the sea’); on the Asiatic side is Kaleh Sultanieh or Boghaz Hissar, at the mouth of the Koja Chai (Rhodios). Under the protection of the latter lies the town of Chanak Kalesí (‘castle of pots’), usually called =Dardanelles= (pop. 16,700). While the steamer stops for way-leave the potters of the place offer their curiously shaped and painted vases for sale.

At the second-narrowest part of the straits (1585 yds.), where they bend to the N.E., once lay the towns of Sestos (left) and Abydos (right), now fort Nagara Kalesí (quarantine station; lighthouse). This was the traditional scene of the romance of Hero and Leander; it was here that Lord Byron swam across in 1810. Xerxes crossed the straits here in 480 B.C., Alexander the Great in 334 B.C., and the Turks in 1357.—On the coast, to the left, is the small plain of Ægospotamoi (now Karakova Dereh), off which the Spartans won a decisive victory over the Athenians in 405.

Near the N.E. end of the Dardanelles, on the right, lies the village of Lampsaki (Lampsakos) amid olive-groves and vineyards. To the left, on the steep projecting coast, is superbly situated the decayed town of Gallipoli (Kallipolis, ‘beautiful town’), the first European town captured in 1357 by Suleiman, son of Orkhân (p. 542).

The Dardanelles expand into the =Sea of Marmora= (p. xxxiv), the ancient Propontis, a basin of comparatively recent origin (extreme depth 4450 ft.), which like the Ægean Sea has been formed by the subsidence of large portions of the earth’s surface. On the Asiatic side, beyond Kara Burun (381 ft.), lies the Bay of Artaki, on the N. margin of the ancient Troas. Adjoining the bay is the plain of the Biga Sher Chai, the ancient Granikos, where in 334 Alexander the Great won his first victory over the Persians.

On the coast of ancient Phrygia rises the peninsula of Kapu Dagh (2625 ft.; once Arktonnesos island), flanked by the Pasha Liman islands and Marmora or Marmara (2326 ft.), where white marble for Constantinople has been quarried since ancient times.

On the N. coast soon appear the villages of Sharkiöi (once Peristasis) and Hiraklitsa (Heraklea); then the town of Rodosto (Turk. Tekirdagh), and farther on, Eregli, the ancient Perinthos.

To the S. we sight the islet of Kalolimni (689 ft.; Besbikos); far beyond it are the Gulf of Mudania (or Gemlek) and the town of Brussa, at the foot of the Bithynian Olympos (8200 ft.), which is generally capped with snow.

Off the beautiful Gulf of Ismid (Nikomedeia), to the N.E., lie the =Princes Islands= (Iles des Princes; comp. Map, p. 557), the ancient Demonnesoi (Turk. Kizil Adalar, ‘red islands’, so called from the colour of their ferruginous rocks).

=Prinkipo=, the ancient Pityusa (‘rich in pines’), the largest and most populous of these islands, attracts many excursionists from Constantinople in fine weather (local steamers, see p. 538). On the N. side of the island lies its capital, Prinkipo (Hôt. Giacomo, déj. 5, D. 6 fr.; Hôt. Impérial, and others). Pleasant drive thence (2½ hrs. there and back; 1–2 mejidiehs; or ride, ½–1 mej.) to the highest hill on the S. side of the island, crowned with the old Monastery of St. George (656 ft.; *View).

On its way from Constantinople to Prinkipo the steamer first touches at Proti (377 ft.). To the right we see the small island of Oxia, the most westerly of the group, to which in 1910 the famous street-dogs of Constantinople were transported, and Plati (‘the flat’), also called ‘Bulwer’s Island’ after an English Ambassador who here built two now ruined castles (19th cent.) in the style of Windsor. The steamer calls also at Antigoni (542 ft.), and Chalki (446 ft.; ‘ore-island’), with a Greek commercial school and a seminary for priests.

On the flat European shore, beyond the village of Küchük Chekmekjeh on the lagoon of that name, we sight the Russian war-monument with its gleaming tower, a landmark of Constantinople, rising above the cape of San Stefano (lighthouse). A little later appears Stambul. Next, beyond the lighthouse (Phare), is seen the white mosque of Ahmed and the yellow Aya Sophia.

On the Asiatic coast, on the promontory which runs out into the beautiful Bay of Moda, there is situated, in the ancient Bithynia, Fanar Burnu or Fener Bagcheh (lighthouse). Beyond, it is Kadikiöi (Kadi Keuï), a modern suburb of Constantinople, on the site of Kalchedon or Chalcedon. Farther on are the little harbour of Haidar Pasha (p. 557), the station of the Anatolian railway, and, at the S. end of Scutari (p. 556), the military school of medicine, the large Selimieh Barracks, and the Selimieh Mosque.

The steamer now rounds the Seraglio Point and enters the Bosporus (p. 557); it passes the Golden Horn, the harbour of Constantinople, and the New Bridge, and casts anchor at the Galata Quay below Pera. Landing, see below.

The DIRECT STEAMERS from Athens to Constantinople steer from the Straits of Doro (p. 529) to the N.N.E. for Tenedos (p. 533). In clear weather we descry to the right the distant Chios (p. 492) and Psara (p. 529), and to the left Skyros (2608 ft.), the S.E. island of the N. Sporades. On the right we next sight Mytilini (p. 533), and on the left Hagiostrati (971 ft.; Halonnesos). From Tenedos to Constantinople, see p. 533.

81. Constantinople.[9]

ARRIVAL BY SEA. The French, German, and Rumanian (RR. 76, 82) steamers are berthed at the Galata Quay (Pl. H, I, 4), near the Dogana or Douane. Passengers of the French and German steamers have to pay pier-dues (1st class 5½, 2nd cl. 3½ s. pias). The Austrian, Italian, and Egyptian steamers also, on their arrival from the Black Sea, are mostly moored at the quay, but when coming from the S. they usually anchor in front of it, at the entrance of the Golden Horn (landing or embarkation, with baggage, 2 fr. or 10 pias.). The porters (hamáls, mostly Kurds) of the Harbour Co. receive 5 pias. and a gratuity of 1 pias. for conveying baggage from the quay to the hotels. All trouble with boatmen and porters is avoided by applying at once to the guides (dragomans) or hotel-agents.

Footnote 9:

In the following description the transcripts ö and ü have approximately the German value, or the French of eu and u respectively.

=Money.= The Turkish Pound (lira), worth about 23 fr. or 18_s._ 5_d._, is divided into 100 piastres. There are gold coins of ¼, ½, 1, 2½, and 5 pounds. The commonest coins are Silver Piastres (s. pias.; coins of 5, 10, and 20 s. pias.), but at the government, railway, and steamboat offices, in the tobacco-shops, and on the tramways they suffer a slight loss (5 s. pias. = 4¾, 10 s. pias. = 9½, 20 s. pias. = 19 piastres in gold). The piastre (worth 2⅒_d._) is called Gurúsh in Turkish (grosi in Greek), the five-piastre piece is a Cheïrek (or simply ‘franc’), the twenty-piastre piece (about 3_s._ 6_d._) is a Mejidieh. A piastre is divided into 40 parts called Paras; the commonest para-coins are the thinly silvered bronze Metalliks of 10 paras (about ½_d._); there are others of 5, 20, 50, and 100 paras. New nickel coins of 1 pias., 20, 10, and 5 paras will in 1912 be brought into circulation.

A French or Greek silver franc passes in ordinary traffic for 4½ s. pias., and the Napoleon (the most popular of foreign coins) for 95 s. pias. (but the money-changers usually give 93 s. pias. only). The average exchange for an English sovereign is 120 s. pias.; for bank and circular notes the exchange is rather higher. French banknotes can be exchanged only at the banks. Small change, of which there is always a scarcity, is obtained at the banks (p. 539) or at the money-changers, the current rate of exchange being ascertained beforehand. Worn-out coins may be exchanged at the Banque Ottomane.

Accounts are still kept in the provinces in ‘bad (chürük) piastres’; of these there are silver coins worth 1¼, 2½, and 5 pias., and copper coins of 1¼ and 2½ pias.—The Turkish pound contains 178 bad piastres, the mejidieh 33, and the silver piastre 1⅔. A pound sterling is therefore worth about 209 bad piastres, a shilling about 10½, and a franc 8⅓.

=Turkish Numbers=: 1, bir; 2, ikí; 3, ütsh; 4, dört; 5, besh; 6, altí; 7, yedí; 8, sekíz; 9, dokuz; 10, on; 11, on bir; 20, yirmí; 25, yirmí besh; 30, otuz; 40, kirk; 50, elí; 100, yüz; 1000, bin. ‘Katsh pará’, how many paras? ‘Besh gurúsh’, five piastres.

Baggage and passports (p. xvii) are examined in the ‘Salon’ or Bureau des Passeports. The importation of weapons and ammunition and of tobacco and cigarettes is prohibited. Cigars, however, if declared, are admitted at an ad valorem duty of 75 per cent. On showing their passports passengers must state where they intend to reside; the passports are then stamped and returned to them. On leaving the country passports are again examined (visés by consul, p. 539); so also is luggage, to prevent exportation of antiquities.

On leaving the Salon each passenger has to pay the Harbour Co. 5 pias. in gold, also 1 pias. for each trunk and ½ pias. for each piece of hand-luggage.

The =Station= (Pl. H, 5; Buffet, on the side for departure; Rail. Restaurant opposite) of the Oriental Railway is at Stambul, 7 min. to the S.E. of the New Bridge (p. 545).—The clock, which gives E. European time, is an hour in advance of mid-European time. As the officials understand French, the services of the hotel-agents may be dispensed with.—Small articles of luggage are examined at the frontier-station Mustapha Pasha, registered luggage in the hall of arrival, and passports at the exit.—Porter to hotel 11 pias.—Cab from station to hotel 20–25 pias., incl. bridge-toll of 2½ pias. (from quay to hotel 10 pias.; tariff, see p. 538).

=Hotels= (all at Pera; charges should be agreed upon beforehand). PERA PALACE HOTEL (Pl. a; H, 3), near the public gardens of the Petits Champs (p. 544), R. 10 fr. 10 c.–20 fr., B. 2 fr. 10, déj. 5 fr. 25, D. 6 fr. 30, pens. 20 fr. 60–30 fr. 60 c. (charges 3–4 fr. lower from 15th June to 1st Sept.); HÔT. TOKATLIAN, Grande Rue de Péra 180, recently rebuilt, with restaurant and café (see below), R. from 6½, B, 1½, déj. 4½, D. 5½, pens. from 15 fr., well spoken of.—HÔT. BRISTOL, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2), R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 14 fr. (with dépendance GR.-HÔT. MISSIRI, Grande Rue de Péra 128, plain); HÔT. DE LONDRES (Pl. b; H, 2), also opposite Petits Champs, R. from 5, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. from 12½ fr.; HÔT. BERLINER HOF (Royal & d’Angleterre; Pl. c, H, 2), near the garden of the British Embassy, R. from 6, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 15 (out of season, 12) fr.; HÔT. CONTINENTAL, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 3), R. 4–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5, pens. 12–20 fr.; HÔT. KRŒCKER (Pl. e; H, 3), Rue Kabristan 36–40, with garden, R. 4–10, B. 1, déj. 2½, D. 3½, pens. 9–16 fr.

Second Class: KHEDIVIAL PALACE HOTEL (Pl. f; H, 3), Grande Rue de Péra, R. 4–6, pens. 10–12 fr.; HÔT. GRANDE BRETAGNE, Rue Vénédik, R. 2–5, B. 1, déj. 2½, D. 3, pens. 6–10 fr.; HÔT. ST. PÉTERSBOURG, opposite the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2), rooms only (from 2 fr.); CONSTANTINOPLE PALACE HOTEL, Grande Rue de Péra (Pl. H, 2), R. 3–5, B. 1–1½, déj. 3, D. 3½, pens. 7–12 fr.; HÔT. PAULICK, same street, adjoining the Russian Embassy (Pl. H, 3), R. 2¼–6, unpretending; HÔT. RUBIN, R. from 2 fr.

=Restaurants= (European cuisine; à la carte). AT PERA. *Tokatlian, at the hotel of that name (see above); Janni (Brasserie Viennoise), Grande Rue de Péra 396; Nicoli (Brass. Suisse), same street, No. 380; Restaurant Lebon, same street, No. 434; Restaurant Anzière, near the Baluk Bazaar (p. 545), D. 15 pias., well spoken of; restaurants in summer in the gardens of the Petits Champs, in winter in the winter-theatre (concerts).—AT GALATA. Restaurant ‘D.D.’, dinner only, well spoken of.—AT STAMBUL. Railway Restaurant (see above), with garden, well spoken of; Tokatlian, in the Great Bazaar.

=Cafés.= Tokatlian and Lebon, see above; also in the Public Grounds at Pera, in the Taxim Park (Pl. I, 1), and others in the Grande Rue de Péra.—There are Turkish Cafés, well shaded, opposite the Aya Sophia and in the small public garden there (Pl. H, 7); also at the piers of the local steamers, etc.; small cup of coffee 20 paras. Those at Galata should be avoided.—CONFECTIONERS. Tokatlian, Lebon, see p. 537; Mulassier, Grande Rue de Péra, cor. of Rue de Pologne.

=Cabs= (araba). It is best to fix the fare beforehand according to the tariff. Drive of ¼ hr. 5, of 25 min. 7½, and of 40 min. 10 pias.; 1 hr. 15, each addit. hr. 10 pias.; two hours after sunset charges are raised by one-quarter and from midnight till sunrise by one-third; for the whole day 80 pias.—HORSES (at, begir) at Top Haneh, near the Yedikuleh station, etc.; 5–10 pias. per hour, according to bargain (and small gratuity to horse-boy).

=Tramways= (comp. Plan; electric lines under construction). Most of the cars have two classes and a compartment for Turkish women. Fare 30–60 or 40–80 paras according to class (printed on the tickets in French). The passenger states his destination or names the station nearest to it.—=1.= Galata (at lower end of Yüksek Kaldirim, Pl. H, 4) to Galata Seraï (Pl. H, 2; 40 or 60 paras), Taxim (Pl. I, 2), and Shishli (to the N. of Pl. I, 1).—=2.= Asab Kapu (Pl. G, 3; at the Old Bridge) to Galata (Pl. H, 4), Top Haneh (Pl. I, 3), Kabatash (Pl. K, 2), Dolma Bagcheh, Beshiktash, and Ortakiöi (p. 558).—=3.= Emin Önu (Pl. H, 5; at S. end of New Bridge) to Sirkeji (rail. stat.), So-uk Cheshmeh, Kapu (Museum), Aya Sophia (Pl. H, 7), Chemberli Tash (Colonne Brûlée; Pl. G, 6), Sultan Bayazid (Pl. G, 6), Ak Seraï (Pl. D, E, 6; change cars), and Top Kapu (Pl. B, 4).—=4.= Ak Seraï (Pl. D, E, 6) to Yedikuleh (Pl. A, 9).

=Tunnel Railway=, the chief means of communication between the New Bridge and Pera; lower station (Pl. H, 4) at Galata, Rue Yéni Djami; upper station (Pl. H, 3), in the Place du Tunnel at Pera. Cars every 5 min.; 30 or 20 paras; book of 10 tickets, 2nd cl., 5 pias.

=Local Steamers= (comp. inset maps on the Plan; time-tables in the newspapers; ply till sunset). =a.= On the GOLDEN HORN, to Eyúb, from the pier (Pl. H, 4) to the W. of the N. end of the New Bridge, about every ¼ hr. till sunset; tickets (to Eyúb 30 paras; 20 paras more for cushioned seat) on the pier. Mid-stations, see p. 555. In spring and summer smaller steamers ply between Eyúb and Kiathaneh (Sweet Waters, p. 556; 40 paras).—=b.= On the BOSPORUS, from the pier (Pl. H, 5) at the S. end of the New Bridge, to the E., where tickets are obtained (to Büyükdereh in 1½ hr.; fare 160 or 100 paras, plus a tax of 10 paras). There are three lines: European coast, Asiatic coast, and Zigzag, recognizable by green, or red, or red and green flags.—=c.= To SCUTARI, from the third pier to the left (E.; Pl. H, 4), coming from the N. end of the New Bridge, about every ½ hr.; fare 50 or 30 paras; to PRINKIPO (p. 535), from the first pier to the left, five or six times daily in summer, in 2 hrs.; fare 160 or 100 paras.—=d.= On the SEA OF MARMORA (no piers), from the Stambul Quay (Pl. H, 5) vià Kum Kapu (Pl. G, 7), Yeni Kapu (Pl. E, 8), and Psamatia Kapu (Pl. B, 8) to the suburbs of Makrikiöi and San Stefano (p. 535).

=Boats= (no tariff; bargain necessary). To or from steamers, see p. 537; otherwise 10 pias. per hour. Ferry, by one of the long flat-bottomed Caïques, with one rower, to Stambul 1–2 pias., to Eyúb or Scutari, about 10 pias., with two rowers 15 pias.; per hour 15 pias.

=Post Offices.= British (Pl. H, 4); Turkish International, Rue Voïvode in Galata (Pl. H, 4), Grande Rue de Péra, opposite the Galata Seraï, near the Yeni Valideh Jami (Pl. H, 5) in Stambul, and at the railway-station. France, Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Russia also have their own post-offices. French is generally understood. Postage within Turkey ½–2 pias. for 10 grammes, post-card 20 paras; foreign letters 1 pias. per 20 grammes.

=Telegraph Offices.= The Turkish International Post Offices (see above) send telegrams to foreign countries as well as within Turkey. Eastern Telegraph Co., at the Turkish post-office, Grande Rue de Péra (see above), for foreign parts (to Great Britain each word 66 c.).

=Steamboat Agents= (offices mostly behind the custom-house at Galata; comp. Pl. H, 4). Messageries Maritimes, Mumhaneh Street; N. Paquet & Co., T. Reboul; Società Nazionale, Barboro, Cité Française: North German Lloyd, Mewes, Mumhaneh Street, Charab Iskelessi 7–9; German Levant Line, Mehemed Ali Pasha-Han; Austrian Lloyd, Mumhaneh Street; Khedivial Mail, Silley, Galata Quay, Meimanetli Han; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Petcheneff, Kiretsh Kapu; Rumanian State Maritime Service, Galata Quay.—=Tourist Agents=, Thos. Cook & Son, Rue Kabristan 12, opposite Pera Palace Hotel.

=Guides.= The International Courier’s and Guides Office, near the Pera Palace Hotel (p. 537), provides reliable guides (10 fr. per day for Constantinople and its environs, including the Bosporus).

=Embassies and Consulates.= GREAT BRITAIN: Ambassador, Right Hon. Sir G. A. Lowther (office, Pl. H, 2; in summer at Therapia). Consul-General, H. Eyres (office, Pl. H, 4); consul, A. T. Waugh; vice-consul, W. S. Edmonds.—UNITED STATES: Ambassador, O. S. Straus (office, Pl. I, 2). Consul-General, vacat; vice-consul, O. S. Heizer.

=Physicians.= English, German, and others (addresses at the hotels or at the chemists’).—=Chemists.= In the Grande Rue de Péra, Ehrlich, No. 579; Canzuch & Giannetti, No. 247; Matkowitsch, No. 420; Della Sudda, No. 298; Liechtenstein, Helvaji Street, Galata.

=Baths= at the hotels.—Addresses of Turkish Baths may be obtained at the hotels.—SEA BATHS at the European places on the Bosporus.

=Banks.= Banque Ottomane, Rue Voïvode, Galata, and Grande Rue de Péra 407, with exchange offices; Crédit Lyonnais, near the New Bridge, Galata; also German, German Orient, Vienna, and others.—MONEY CHANGERS (sarráf) abound in the Rue Karakeuï (Pl. H, 4; p. 543), Grande Rue de Péra, etc.

=Booksellers.= Economic Book Store, Passage du Tunnel; O. Keil, No. 457, and S. H. Weiss, No. 481 Grande Rue de Péra.—NEWSPAPERS (¼ pias.). Levant Herald, with Engl. and Fr. editions; Le Stamboul, Moniteur Oriental, French; Osmanische Lloyd, German and French. All have steamboat and other time-tables and notices.

=Photographs & Picture Post Cards.= All in Grande Rue de Péra, Fruchtermann, No. 335; Keil, No. 457; Sébah & Joaillier, No. 439; Berggren, No. 414 (line views of the city and environs). Photographic materials sold by Caracache Frères, Nos. 675 and 398, and Weinberg, No. 467.

=Theatre= in the grounds of the Petits Champs (Pl. H, 2).—A BAND plays on summer evenings in the same grounds and in the Taxim Park (Pl. I, 1); adm. 1–2 pias.

=Churches.= Church of England, at the chapel of the British Embassy (Pl. H, 2), during summer at Therapia (see p. 559); Christ Church (Pl. H, 3), in the Rue Yazidji; Presbyterian Church, in the chapel of the Dutch Legation, Rue des Postes, near the Grande Rue (Pl. H, 3).

=Sights.= Antiquities, Collection of, see New Museum.

Bazaar, Great (p. 551), best visited early; closed 1 hr. before sunset; Frid., Sat., and Sun. are respectively Moslem, Jewish, and Christian holidays. Inexperienced travellers may bring a guide or the dragoman of their hotel (but see p. xxvi). Large purchases may be sent home by a goods-agent.

Beylerbey Seraï (p. 558), adm. as in the case of the Seraglio.

Chinili Kiosque (p. 547), see under New Museum.

Egyptian Bazaar (Missir Charshi; p. 545), as the Great Bazaar.

Galata Tower (p. 543), all day, 5 pias. (custodian with light, 2 pias.).

Mosques (Turk. Jami; very small, mesjid), all open to Christians till sunset; during Ramadan, the Moslem month of fasting, they are gorgeously lighted and then open in the evening also (comp. p. 549). At the inner door the sacristan provides overshoes, or visitors may take off their own. Hats also are removed (comp. p. xxv). There is no charge for admission but it is usual to give the sacristan a fee of 5 pias. per person (less for a party) for the loan of overshoes.—The Tomb Chapels (Turk, türbeh) are open on similar conditions; fee 1–5 pias., according to their importance.

Museum, Janissaries’ (p. 550), all day, 3 pias.—Military Museum, in the Church of Irene (p. 548), Sun., Tues., & Thurs. 10–4.—New Museum (p. 546), daily except Frid., 9–5, in winter 10–3, adm. 5 pias.; tickets available for the Chinili Kiosque also.

Seraglio Palace (p. 548). The consulates, to which application should be made a few days beforehand, arrange for visits to the Treasury and part of the old Seraglio on Sun & Tues. (small fee).

Türbeh, see under Mosques.

TWO DAYS (when time is limited). 1st. Forenoon, *Galata Tower (p. 543), Yeni Valideh Jami (p. 545), *New Museum (p. 546), Chinili Kiosque (p. 547); afternoon, trip on the *Bosporus (p. 557), or to Scutari (p. 556); summer evening in the Gardens of the Petits Champs (p. 544) or the Taxim Park (p. 544).—2nd. Forenoon, *Aya Sophia (p. 548), At Meïdán (p. 549), *Great Bazaar (p. 551), *Suleiman Mosque (p. 552); afternoon, Land-Wall (p. 553); Eyúb (pp. 555, 556); Serasker Tower (p. 551).—Visitors should be on their guard against pickpockets, especially in Galata and Pera.

Constantinople, Turk. Stambul or Stamboul, Ital. Costantinopoli, Slav. Tsarigrad (emperor’s town), capital of the Turkish empire and residence of the Sultan (since 1909 Mohammed V., b. 1844; successor of Abdul Hamid, p. 544), is the seat of the government (the ‘Sublime Porte’), and also of the Sheikh ul-Islam, of the patriarchs of the Greek and Armenian churches, and of a papal legate. It lies on the Sea of Marmora, at the mouth of the Bosporus, in 41° N. lat. and 28° 58′ E. longitude.

The CITY consists of several distinct quarters. Stambul, in the narrower sense, forms a nearly equilateral triangle between the Golden Horn (p. 555) and the Sea of Marmora; to the N.E., on the slopes of the opposite bank of the Golden Horn and on the adjacent shore of the Bosporus, lie the Frank quarters of Galata and Pera and their suburbs; and to the E., on the gently sloping Asiatic shore of the Bosporus, lies the Turkish town of Scutari with its suburbs. According to recent estimates Constantinople contains 1,125,000 inhab. (or, without the Asiatic quarters, 943,000), incl. about 500,000 Turks, more than 200,000 Greeks, 180,000 Armenians, 65,000 Jews, mostly Spanish (see p. 542), and 70,000 Europeans. The foreign residents are said to number 130,000.

The SITUATION of Constantinople has justly won the admiration of all ages. The vast city of Stambul curving over the slopes between the Sea of Marmora and the Golden Horn, the suburbs on the Bosporus, its green banks studded with villages, palaces, and mosques, the Golden Horn with its busy bridges and its countless vessels, all combine to form a picture of matchless beauty.

The CLIMATE of Constantinople, which lies in the same latitude as Naples (p. 137), is unsettled and comparatively cool. During the greater part of the year the city is exposed to N.E. winds from the Siberian steppes, which sweep through the Bosporus and in winter occasionally bring snow. The best season for a visit is autumn (end of Sept. to beginning of Nov.). The summer, however, is usually fine and not unbearably hot, the coolest places being those on the Bosporus, a little to the N., which are sheltered from the due S. winds (as Therapia, Büyükdereh, etc.). The mean temperature of the year is 57½° Fahr., that of the hottest month (Aug.) 74°, and that of the coldest (Feb.) 41°. The rainfall averages 28¾ in.

HISTORY. Attracted by the striking advantages of the site, at the junction of two great portions of the globe and on the great water highway between the Mediterranean and the Black Sea, the Dorians founded the colony of =Byzantium=, about 660 B.C., on the promontory (Seraglio Point, p. 536) commanding the entrance to the Bosporus. This colony, however, like the towns on the coast of Asia Minor, was unable to withstand the attacks of the Persians; when Darius I. crossed the Bosporus in his campaign against the Scythians the Byzantines were compelled to supply him with ships; and their town was afterwards destroyed by the Persians for taking part in the Ionian revolt. The long but somewhat weak alliance of Byzantium with Athens was succeeded by closer bonds when the town was threatened by Philip of Macedonia. Being hard pressed by Phokion Philip was compelled to raise the siege of the town (340–339). Under Alexander the Great and his successors Byzantium maintained its autonomy, but in 278 it suffered seriously from an attack by the Gauls (‘Galatians’) settled in Thrace.

In the wars against Philip III. of Macedonia Byzantium became the natural ally of Rome, and this alliance continued to subsist under the earlier Roman emperors. In 193–6 Septimius Severus besieged the town to punish it for siding with the rival emperor Pescennius Niger, and deprived it of its liberties and privileges; but he afterwards rebuilt the walls, regarding it as an important bulwark of the empire. In 269 Emp. Claudius II. here repelled the attacks of the Goths when they attempted to force their way south from the Danube.

Having become master of the whole empire by the capture of Byzantium in 324 Emp. Constantine chose it as his new capital on account of its admirable situation on the threshold of the East. In 330 it was officially styled New Rome, but soon became generally known as =Constantinopolis=. Enclosed by Constantine’s new walls it now extended to the W. to the region of the present Old Bridge (Pl. F, 4) and of Psamatia (Pl. B, C, 8). The Romans retained the old division of the city into fourteen regions, and they even found in it their seven hills again. The environs as far as the 7th milestone (hebdomon), called the exokionion, were assigned to the seven milliarii of the Gothic body-guard. Under Arcadius, in 395, Constantinople became the capital of the new E. Roman empire. The rapid increase of the population and the necessity of defending it against the attacks of the Huns and Goths induced Anthemius, regent during the minority of Theodosius II. (408–50), to build the new Theodosian town-walls, ½–1¼ M. to the W. of those of Constantine. In 439 sea-walls along the Sea of Marmora and the Golden Horn were added, and after 447, in consequence of an attack by Attila and to repair the damage done by an earthquake, the land-walls were restored and strengthened.

Byzantium attained the zenith of its prosperity under Justinian (527–65). He rebuilt the city, after its almost entire destruction in 532 during the rebellion of the circus parties (Nika revolt), in a far grander style, and on the site of Constantine’s basilica founded the famous church of St. Sophia. In the form of Byzantine civilization antique culture survived until the middle ages, although finally in a merely torpid state. This Byzantine development, with its Greek language and independent Oriental church under the patriarchal government at Constantinople, was an outcome of the late Greek (‘Hellenistic’) and Roman culture.

After the time of Justinian the empire was shaken to its foundations by intestine disorders and foreign wars. The attacks of the Avars and Persians (627) were succeeded by the irruption of the Arabs under the Omaiyades (p. 485), who in 673–8 and 717–8 besieged Constantinople by sea and by land. About the same time the Bulgarians founded an independent kingdom in the Balkan peninsula, and they too (in 813 and 924) attacked the city. Russian fleets forced their way into the Sea of Marmora in 860 and 1048. Economically, too, Constantinople was on the wane; from the 11th cent. onwards the Seljuks were gaining ground in Asia Minor, and the Italian maritime cities were rapidly acquiring wealth and power.

The quarrels of aspirants to the throne during the Angelos dynasty led in 1204 to the capture of Constantinople by the Crusaders and to the foundation of a new western or ‘Latin’ empire. In 1261 the Greek emperor Michael Palaeologos, who resided at Nikæa, succeeded in driving the Franks out of Constantinople with the aid of the Genoese, to whom he presented Galata (see below) as a reward. But the Turkish peril came ever nearer. The Osmans, having conquered Asia Minor in the 13th cent., crossed the Dardanelles (comp. p. 534) under Orkhân in 1357, and under Murad I., in 1361, made Adrianople the residence of the sultans instead of Brussa. They were weakened for a time by the attacks of Timur (p. 485), but in 1411 and 1422 they proceeded to besiege Constantinople.

After a heroic defence by Constantine XI. Palaeologos, the last Greek emperor, the city was at length captured in 1453 by Mohammed II. (Mehemed el-Fatih, ‘the conqueror’), and under the name of =Stambul= became the capital of the Osmans. Its fortunes were now at their lowest ebb; it was almost entirely depopulated and reduced to ruins, as had been its fate when captured by the Crusaders in 1204. But soon Turkish settlers from all quarters thronged to the new capital, and many Christians also, their lives and religion being safeguarded, while numerous Jews banished from Spain in 1492 found a new home here and have retained their old language and characteristics ever since. The building enterprise of the Turkish sultans, especially of Selim I. (1512–20), the conqueror of Syria, Mesopotamia, and Egypt, and of Suleiman the Great (1520–66), as well as of the Turkish magnates, was directed exclusively to public edifices. They erected mosques (p. 539) on the model of the earlier church of the Apostles and of the Aya Sophia (or church of St. Sophia), tomb-chapels (p. 539), bazaars and warehouses (han), and baths and fountains (sebil, with running water; cheshmeh, draw-well). In the midst of these sumptuous buildings lay a labyrinth of crooked streets and lanes, the brightly painted timber houses with their grated balconies (kafehs) being often of one story only, while here and there this strange sea of houses was relieved by gardens and burial-grounds.

To some extent, notwithstanding destructive fires (as in 1865 and 1908) and earthquakes (the last in 1894), the old Oriental characteristics of the city still survive in the old town of Stambul, the chief seat of the Oriental merchants and the petty traders, and also at Scutari (p. 556). Galata, on the other hand, the centre of the European trade, is much like an Italian seaport-town. Above it, to the N., lies Pera, a suburb which sprang up in the 19th cent., and which, since a great fire in 1870, has been almost entirely rebuilt in quite European fashion.

Of BOOKS on Constantinople may be mentioned: Grosvenor, Constantinople (2 vols., London, 1895); W. H. Hutton, Constantinople in the ‘Mediæval Towns Series’ (London, 1900); and Van Millingen, Byzantine Constantinople, The Walls, etc. (London, 1899).

a. Galata and Pera.

=Galata=, the oldest suburb of Constantinople, rises on the slope of a plateau on the N. side of the entrance to the Golden Horn (p. 555), corresponding with the 13th region of the city of Constantine (p. 541). In the middle ages it was usually called Peira. Its inhabitants are chiefly Greeks and Armenians. In 1304 the Genoese (see above) enclosed it with a wall, and down to 1453 held an almost independent position under their own rulers (podestà). The wall was often rebuilt and was at last removed (1864).

Behind the GALATA QUAY (Pl. H, I, 4), constructed in 1879–95, lies a labyrinth of narrow and dirty streets, extending to the other side of the GRAND RUE DE GALATA (p. 545), the chief thoroughfare to the N.E. suburbs. At the S.W. end of the latter are the still busier RUE DE KARAKEUÏ (Pl. H, 4), beside the New Bridge (p. 545), and the Place Karakeuï. where the Exchange rises on the left.

In the old-fashioned W. quarter of Galata are the ruinous Palace of the Podestà (in the Pershembeh Bazaar, Pl. H, 4) and the Arab Jami (Pl. G, 4), the oldest mosque in the city, which was founded at the time of the Arab attacks (717). Near it is the Yanik Kapu, an old Genoese gateway. A little farther on, near the Old Bridge (p. 552), is the Asab Kapu Jami (Pl. G, 3, 4), erected by Sinán (p. 552), adjoining which is a beautiful *Sebíl (p. 542), with gilded railings and far projecting timber roof (18th cent.).

From the Old Bridge Pera is reached by the broad Rue Iskander (Pl. G, 3), and from the New Bridge by the steep and dirty YÜKSEK KALDIRIM (Pl. H, 3, 4), partly in steps (and also by the tunnel or by tramway No. 1; p. 538).

On the boundary between Galata and Pera, a little to the W. of the N. end of the Yüksek Kaldirim, rises the =Galata Tower= (Pl. H, 3; 148 ft. high), now entirely modernized, the ascent of which (p. 539) forms the best introduction to a walk through the city. It marks the spot where the new land-walls on the E. and W. sides of Galata met in 1348. We mount 143 steps to the room of the fire-watchmen, and 72 more to the three upper stories.

The *PANORAMA from the fourteen windows of the watchmen’s room embraces Galata with the buildings on the quay; to the N.E. is the Jihangir Mosque (p. 544); opposite, on the Asiatic coast, to the extreme left is the palace of Beylerbey (p. 558); farther to the S. is Scutari, dominated by the Great and Little Bulgurlu (p. 557). To the S.E. lie the Princes Islands (p. 535); to the S., above the S. coast of the Sea of Marmora, rises the Bithynian Olympos (p. 535). With the aid of the Plan of the city we may easily locate the chief buildings of Stambul, from the Aya Sophia and the Ahmed Mosque with its six minarets, to the S., round to the Great Bazaar with its numerous little domes, to the Place d’Armes (Séraskier-Kapou), with the great tower, the barracks, and the Suleiman Mosque, to the Mihrimah Mosque, and to the Byzantine city-wall at the extreme N. end of Stambul. At our feet lies the Golden Horn, with the two bridges and the naval harbour. In the distance, to the N.W., peeps the mosque of Eyúb (see inset map in Plan of city).

The modern streets of =Pera=, the European quarter, run to the N.W. from the Galata Tower, between old Turkish cemeteries and large gardens, across the whole hill. The embassies to the Sublime Porte, the European churches, schools, hospitals, and shops also are situated here.

The GRANDE RUE DE PÉRA (Pl. H, I, 3, 2), the continuation of Yüksek Kaldirim, passes the Monastery of the Dancing Dervishes (Tekkeh; Pl. H, 3), whose strange performances may be witnessed on Fridays (except during Ramadan), usually from 7.30 to 8.30 Turkish time (4½–3½ hrs. before sunset; adm. 5 pias.).

We may now cross the Place du Tunnel, past the upper station of the tunnel railway (Pl. H, 3; p. 538), and follow Rue Kabristan (or one of the narrow streets to the left, farther to the N., such as the Rue Vénédik) to the—

=Public Grounds of tho Petits Champs= (Pl. H, 3, 2), near the British Embassy (Pl. H, 2) and the chief hotels (p. 537). They afford a beautiful view of Stambul and the Golden Horn, and are a favourite resort in the afternoon and evening (concerts, see p. 539).

We return, to the N.E., by Rue Tepé Bachi to the Grande Rue de Péra, whence the Rue Yéni Teharchi leads to the S.E., past the Galata Seraï (Pl. H, 2; Imper. Lyceum), to Top Haneh.

Our street ends, at the N.W. end of Pera, at the PLACE DU TAXIM (Pl. 1, 2). Here on the right, adjoining the Kishla Jaddesí, are the Artillery Barracks, one of the chief scenes of conflict on 25th April 1909 when the Young Turks fought their way into the city, and the *=Taxim Park= (Pl. I, 1; band, see p. 539), and on the left a large esplanade.

From the Place du Taxim we may ascend the Ayas Pasha Boulevard, past the German Embassy, or from the Taxim Park the Dolma Bagtché Déré (Pl. K, 1; Dolma-garden valley), past the Ecuries Impériales, to PLACE DOLMA BAGTCHÉ DÉRÉ. On the E. side of this square, below the suburb of that name, rises the =Dolma Bagcheh Palace= (pp. 558, 546), of which only the high walls with their superb gateways are seen on the inland side. The sultan repairs hither weekly in solemn procession (‘selamlik’) to Friday prayer (at noon), usually offered in the neighbouring Valideh Jami (mosque of the sultan’s mother; Pl. K, 1, 2).

We may now follow the road to the N.E. through the adjacent suburb of Beshiktash, where, opposite the steamboat pier, rises the Türbeh Kheireddin Barbarossa (p. 221), which is best viewed from the Bosporus. Farther on are the ruins of the Chiragan Seraï (p. 558).

From the pier of Beshiktash a road leads to the N.E. to the =Yildiz Kiosque=, surrounded with barracks and high walls, formerly the residence of the now deposed sultan Abdul Hamid (1876–1909). The Palace and its Park, and the private Hamidieh Mosque, built of white marble, are inaccessible.

It is now best to return by tramway (No. 2; p. 538) to the large suburb of =Top Haneh= (Pl. I, 3), inhabited chiefly by Turks, with the loftily situated Jihangir Mosque (1553).

Here, in the esplanade of the Artillery Arsenal on the Bosporus, are situated the Mosque of Mahmud II. (1830) and a fine but now roofless Well House of the time of Ahmed II. (1703–30), resembling the sebíl at the Asab Kapu (p. 543). The Mosque of Kilij Ali Pasha (Pl. I, 3) was built by Sinán (p. 552).

We now return to Pera by the Rues Tchoukour Bostan and Yéni Tcharchi (p. 544), or by the GRANDE RUE DE GALATA (Pl. I, H, 3, 4), the busiest international thoroughfare, to Place Karakeuï (p. 543).

b. Stambul.

From the Rue Karakeuï, in Galata, the =New Bridge= (Pl. H, 4, 5) crosses the Golden Horn (p. 555) to Stambul (toll 10 paras; carr. 2½ pias.). It was originally built of timber in 1845, and called Sultan Valideh Bridge after its founder (the ‘sultan’s mother’), and was rebuilt in 1877. The new iron bridge was begun in 1909. It affords beautiful *Views of Galata and Stambul, of the Bosporus and the Asiatic coast, while its busy and picturesque traffic presents scenes of endless variety.

At the S. end of the bridge lies the PLACE EMIN EUNOU (Pl. H, 5), called also Baluk Bazar or fish-market, beyond which rise the fine outlines of the—

*=Yeni Valideh Jami= (Pl. H, 5), or ‘new mosque of the sultan’s mother’. Begun in 1615 by Khoja Kassim for the mother of Ahmed I., after the model of Ahmed’s Mosque, and damaged by the great fire of 1660, it was not completed till 1663. In the middle of the outer court are ranged, as in all the larger Turkish mosques, the forecourt (harám) with its three portals, the mosque itself, and the türbeh (p. 539), all turned towards Mecca (to the S.E.).

The forecourt, with its two elegant minarets and large wooden roofs above the side-portals, has a remarkably fine octagonal fountain of ablution (shudrivàn) in the centre.

Like the Suleïmanieh (p. 552) the mosque is preceded by two colonnades. In the interior the lower wall surfaces and the four massive pillars of the dome are incrusted with bluish-green tiles. The mihrâb wall is connected with the pillars by a gallery; adjoining it, near the mihrâb or prayer-niche itself, are the superb pulpit and the railed-in gallery of the sultan. The adjacent *Private Rooms of the sultan still have their original decoration of fayence tiles and stained glass.

The Türbeh contains the sarcophagus of the sultan’s mother and the tombs of five sultans, recognizable by the turban and double heron’s plume.

On the W. side of the outer court is the =Missir Charshi= (Pl. G, 5; ‘Egyptian Bazaar’), originally for goods from Egypt, but now a general market, next in importance to the Great Bazaar (p. 551). Among the wares in the open shops of the vaulted street the chief commodities are spices, drugs, and pigments.

To the W. of the Egyptian Bazaar, at the foot of Rue Ousoun Tcharchi (p. 551), rises the Mosque of Rustem Pasha (Pl. G, 5), vizier of Suleiman the Great (p. 542) and husband of his daughter Mihrimah (p. 553). It was built by Sinán (p. 552). The interior is noteworthy chiefly for the superb effect produced by its fayence tiles.

We follow the tramway (No. 3; p. 538), to the S.E., through the Rue Bagtché Kapou, so named after the old ‘garden-gate’ of Stambul, and the Hamidieh Jaddesi, crossing the broad Bab Ali Jaddesi which leads to the left to the Railway Station (p. 537). Farther on we come to the wall of the Seraglio on the left, and to (10 min.) the Sublime Porte (Pl. H, 6; vizierate and ministry of foreign affairs) on the right. Its central part, which contained the ministry of home affairs and the cabinet was burnt down in Feb. 1911.

The =Seraglio= or Seraï (Pl. H-I, 5, 7; now officially called Top Kapu Seraï, ‘seraglio of the cannon-gate’), with its neglected garden-terraces and miscellaneous buildings, occupies the site of the Acropolis and oldest streets of Byzantium (p. 541) and the first of the seven hills of New Rome. Within the extensive precincts, enclosed by a pinnacled wall and defended by towers, Mohammed II. in 1468 erected a summer palace, which Suleiman the Great (p. 542) enlarged and made his residence. All the sultans resided here until Abdul Mejíd built the Dolma Bagcheh Palace (1850–5; p. 558). In 1873 the railway was carried through the gardens, past the Granite Column of Emp. Claudius II. (268–70 A. D.). Around the palace are grouped the old church of Irene (p. 548), several military and other new buildings, the imperial Mint, and the School of Art founded in 1889.

From the chief entrance, the So-uk Cheshmeh Gate (Pl. H, 6), we ascend to the right, past the Mint, to the first terrace. A road to the left leads thence, behind the School of Art, to the New Museum, on the right, and the Chinili Kiosque, on the left.

The =New Museum= (Pl. I, 6), opened in 1891, contains the imperial **Collection of Antiquities, the arrangement of which is still incomplete. Adm., see p. 539. Director, Halil Bey.

GROUND FLOOR. The first rooms, on the right and left of the entrance, contain the sarcophagi, including the famous coffins discovered in 1887 in the so-called royal tombs of Sidon (p. 470). The two vaults, in which the rulers of Sidon of the 6–4th cent. B. C. are supposed to have been buried, contained 26 stone coffins, some in the Egyptian form of a mummy, with sculptured heads, others shaped like Greek temples. In several cases their execution is highly artistic. The finest are in (right) Room I: *No. 48. So-called Satrap’s Coffin, of Ionian workmanship (first half of 5th cent.); *49. Sarcophagus of the mourning women, in marble, in the form of a temple, influenced in style by the works of Praxiteles (4th cent.). In (left) Room II: *No. 75. Lycian sarcophagus, with lid in the form of a pointed arch, executed under the fresh influence of the Parthenon reliefs (p. 517); **76. Alexander sarcophagus, an Attic original (about 300 B. C.), with traces of rich colouring; 90. Sarcophagus of Tabnit, king of Sidon, originally that of an Egyptian general (6th cent.). Again, in Room I: No. 1142. Tomb-stele from Nisyros (p. 490; about 500 B.C.); 45. Tomb-stele from Pella, a fine early Greek work like the last; 31–33. Fragments of Roman sarcophagi (Ulysses fighting against the wooers, etc.); also leaden coffins from Beirut, Khoms (p. 412), etc. (Room II contains also six terracotta coffins from Klazomenæ, 6th cent. B. C.). Among the objects in the other rooms we note a large Lycian sarcophagus from Trysa (2nd cent. B. C.); *1179. Late Roman sarcophagus from the region of Konia, with the recumbent figures of man and wife.

A large room is devoted solely to the art and inscriptions of the Hittites, the dominating race on the Upper Euphrates, in Syria, and in Asia Minor from about 1500 to 1000 B.C., who were afterwards split up into small principalities and lost their national characteristics. From this later period (about 9–8th cent.) date the numerous objects from Senjerli in N. Syria (among others No. 873. Two sphinxes as a base of a column). Other relics are from Marrash in N. Syria (840. Lion with inscription) and from Albistan (835. Limestone pillar).

Two rooms are set apart for the Greek-Roman sculptures. Among the chief early Greek works (6th cent. B.C.) are: No. 5bis. Reliefs from a tombstone in the form of a pillar, with scenes of peace and war; 8, 133. Torso of Apollo and Relief of Hercules drawing his bow, both from Thasos; 680. Tomb-stele from Dorylæum in Phrygia; *78. Head of a man, early Ionian, from Rhodes; 32, 33. Kybele, from Kyme; 1136. Relief, Birth of Athena, from Chalcedon.—Of the 5th cent.: No. 1189. Caryatid; 1433. Hermes Propylæos, after the famous work of Alkamenes (Roman copy); *148. Snake’s head from the tripod in the At Meïdán (p. 549). Among other creations of the Greek golden age (4th cent.) are: No. 1121. Statue of a youth; 114. Upper half of a stele, from Kyzikos; 1242. Relief with a portrait of Euripides; 1028. Relief of a woman playing on the lyre, from Mysia.—Hellenistic sculptures from Pergamum (p. 533): *764. Dancer, from a large circular monument; *1138. Marble head (Alexander the Great?); 72. Marsyas hanging (a good copy); also important: *709. Alexander the Great, from Magnesia on the Sipylos; 685. Colossal head of Zeus, from Troy; 9. Colossal statue of Apollo, from Tralleis; *1423. Relief of a boatman (?), from Tralleis, in the style of the ‘Alexandrine’ reliefs.—Of Roman origin: 31. Largest representation of the so-called Thracian horseman, from a triumphal arch at Saloniki.

In the room of the Byzantine antiquities we note No. 164. Statue of the Good Shepherd (3rd cent.?); *1090. Early-Christian pulpit from Saloniki, with the Adoration of the Magi in detached figures; 189, 190. Fragments of a column with scenes with figures (Baptism of Christ, etc.; about 500); also interesting capitals with figures and foliage ornamentation.

Two rooms form an Architectural Museum (Asia Minor relics).

The FIRST FLOOR is occupied by the Babylonian-Assyrian antiquities (incl. the glazed terracotta sarcophagi from Nippur, and No. 1027. Votive relief of king Narâm-Sin, about 3750 B.C.), the unimportant Egyptian relics, and curiosities from Cyprus (p. 489), Himyar (region of Yemen in S. Arabia), and Palmyra. Then collections of bronzes and trinkets from Schliemann’s excavations at Hissarlik (p. 534), from the Sidonian sarcophagi (p. 546), etc.; vases and terracottas from Asia Minor (Hissarlik, Myrina, Priene), Cos (p. 490), and Rhodes; glass vessels from Asia Minor, Cyprus, Syria, and Tripolitania; also a collection of coins.—The N. wing contains the Museum Library.

The elegant =Chinili Kiosque= (Pl. I, 6; ‘fayence palace’), one of the oldest Turkish buildings in the city, was erected in 1470 by Kemal ed-Din under Mohammed II., in the Persian style, and was restored in 1590. In 1908 it was converted into an *Oriental Art Museum. Adm., see p. 539.

The two-storied portico (ticket-office on the left) contains tombstones, etc.—The vestibule, with its original inscribed frieze, is adorned with well-preserved green *Fayence Tiles.

The domed hall and five side-rooms contain Arabian, Persian, and Turkish fayence, Turkish pottery, seals (tugres), firmans, and irades of Turkish sultans, woodwork (koran-desks, cabinets, etc.), leather (beautiful book-bindings), and metal work; also cut gems, Arabian and Venetian glass, mosque-lamps, embroidery, and *Persian Carpets. The chief treasures of the collection are the *Prayer Niche from the palace of the Seljuk sultan Alaeddin at Konia (13th cent.) and a throne of Selim I. (p. 512).

Passing the Mint (p. 546) we next enter the outer court of the Seraglio. In the centre rises the huge Janissaries’ Plane Tree (Pl. I, 6), where the janissaries (p. 550) used to meet.—To the left the Orta Kapu leads to the Seraglio Palace (adm., see p. 540). It contains the throne-room (Arsh Odasi) of the time of Suleiman the Great, the Library, the Imperial Treasury (hazneh han), and the superb Bagdad Kiosque (1639), etc.

Above the outer court rises, on the right, the =Church of Irene= (Pl. I, 6; dedicated to ‘divine peace’), a domed basilica built by Constantine, and restored first by Justinian after the Nika revolt (p. 541), and again in 740. After the Turkish conquest it was used as an arsenal, but is now a Military Museum (adm., see p. 539).

We leave the Seraglio by the Bab i Humayún (Pl. I, 6), the superb modern gate of the sultan, replacing that of Mohammed II.

In the SERAÏ MEÏDÁN (Pl. I, 6, 7; ‘Seraglio Square’), on the S.W. side of the palace-walls, rises the *Fountain of Ahmed III., erected in 1728, the finest sebíl in the city, with a well-preserved timber roof. Nearly opposite are the Aya Sophia and the Ministry of Justice (Pl. H, 1, 7), which was the meeting-place of the new Turkish parliament in 1908–9.

The **=Aya Sóphia Mosque= (Pl. H, 7; adm., see p. 539), formerly the church of St. Sophia, 4 min. to the S. of the So-uk Cheshmeh Gate (p. 546), is the most famous edifice in the whole city. Here in 326, opposite to his palace, Constantine erected a basilica, which he dedicated to Divine Wisdom (Sophía), and which after a fire in 415 was rebuilt by Theodosius II. The church having again been destroyed during the Nika rebellion, Justinian caused the present sumptuous edifice, which was to eclipse all others in the empire, to be erected in 532–7 by Anthemios of Tralleis and Isidoros of Miletos.

The plan of the building is nearly square. Its axis, contrary to custom, runs to the E.S.E., in line with that of the palace. It measures 82½ by 77 yds., but if the atrium or forecourt had still existed the length would have been no less than 184 yds. The edifice with its nave and aisles presents a curious combination of an ancient Christian basilica with a dome-covered mosque. Above the nave, which is 36 yds. in breadth, the great dome, 105 ft. in diameter and 184 ft. in height, but externally inconspicuous, rises on four massive pillars. It is continued lengthwise by two half-domes, relieved by niches, the large E. central niche forming the apse. The upper story of the aisles, borne by antique columns with capitals resembling imposts, and the galleries above the inner vestibule contained the gynæceum, or women’s seats.

The Crusaders pillaged the church in 1204 (p. 542), and many of its treasures were carried off also at the Turkish conquest. The mosaics were whitewashed, the minaret at the S.E. angle was erected, and the unsightly flying buttresses were added on the E. side. To the further detriment of the general effect the successors of the conqueror built the other three minarets, the mausoleums, schools, and outbuildings. A thorough restoration was undertaken by Fossati, an Italian architect, in 1847, when the outside was painted yellow with red stripes.

The entrance for visitors is in the N. side-street, by a door to the left of the N.W. minaret. A few steps descend to the INNER VESTIBULE (eso-narthex), from which five doors open on the outer vestibule (exo-narthex) and nine portals lead into the interior. At the S. end of the inner vestibule, opposite the N. entrance, is a Byzantine *Bronze Door (9th cent.), with part of the original panels.

The northmost portal admits us to the *INTERIOR, in which the immense central dome, in contrast to St. Peter’s at Rome, dominates the entire nave. The marble pavement is partly destroyed and partly covered with carpets and mats spread obliquely in the direction of Mecca (S.E.). The mihrâb or prayer-recess has been placed, for the same reason, a little to the S. of the axis of the apse. Beside the pillars of the apse are, on the right, the mimbar, or Friday pulpit, and on the left the octagonal grated gallery of the sultan, resting on eight antique columns. The nave contains several open galleries or tribunes for prayer-recitals. The Koran niche in the S. aisle also is worth seeing. (Visitors should be careful not to touch anything.)

During the nights of Ramadan (p. 539) visitors are admitted only to the galleries, which the sacristan will show at other times.

On the S. side of the mosque, adjoining the Aya Sophia Meïdán, rise five TÜRBEHS, or burial-chapels of sultans. The southmost, once the baptistery of the church, dates perhaps from Justinian’s reign.

The AYA SÓPHIA MEÏDÁN (Pl. H, 7), a busy square planted with trees, on the S. side of the mosque, was the ancient Augusteion (or Agorá), the greatest centre of traffic in New Rome, whence the triumphal road led to the Golden Gate (p. 554). Down to the Turkish conquest it was adorned with a mounted statue of Justinian. Adjoining it on the S.W. lies the AT MEÏDÁN (Pl. H, 7; ‘horse square’), 330 yds. long, partly occupying the site of a Hippodrome begun by Sept. Severus (p. 541) and completed by Constantine. From these two squares, and from the Seraï Meïdán (p. 548), the Roman and Byzantine imperial palaces, with their dependencies and several churches, extended to the S.E. to the town-wall on the Sea of Marmora.

At the N. angle of At Meïdán, where Rue Divan Yolou (p. 550) diverges, lies a small Public Garden. Farther on, to the S.W., passing a Street Fountain presented by Emp. William II. in 1898, we come to three ancient monuments which still occupy their old places on the spina of the Hippodrome (comp. p. 348). One is the Obelisk of Theodosius I., dating from the time of Thutmosis III. (p. 456; brought from Heliopolis), with Roman reliefs, on the pedestal, of the imperial family viewing the races from the court-stand of the Hippodrome. The second is the bronze *Snake Column, once the central support of a huge tripod which the Greeks erected as a votive offering at Delphi after the victory of Platæa (p. 506). The third is the so-called Colossus, an obelisk of unknown origin.

No less conspicuous than the Aya Sophia is the *=Mosque of Ahmed I.= (Pl. H, 7), on the S.E. side of At Meïdán. It was built by the young sultan of that name in 1608–14 as the second-largest mosque in the city, and is the only one besides the Kaaba at Mecca that has six minarets. The large outer court, planted with trees and often used as a market-place, is separated from At Meïdán by a broken-down wall. The lofty chief portal, with its stalactite niche and its fine bronze gate, leads into a forecourt flanked with domed colonnades where we notice the pretty stalactite capitals. In the centre rises a superb hexagonal marble fountain with a railing.

The interior of the mosque (79 by 70 yds.), in the style of the Mehmedieh (p. 553), resembles the Shahzadeh mosque (p. 552) in the disposition of its four half-domes. The great central dome, 73 ft. in diameter, rests on four clumsy round pillars, and around it runs a low gallery with depressed keel-arches. The walls are lined with white marble below and with beautiful fayence tiles from Nikæa above.

To the S.W. of At Meïdán is the Janissaries’ Museum (Pl. G, H, 7; adm., see p. 539), in which are exhibited wax-figures wearing the ancient costumes of Turkish dignitaries and the uniforms of the Janissaries, or old body-guard (1328–1826).

To the S. of the Museum, close to the railway, rises the *=Küchük Aya Sóphia= (Pl. H, 7, 8), or ‘little’ mosque of Aya Sophia, a kind of prelude to the ‘great’, now containing a military museum. It was built under Justinian in 528, at the same time as San Vitale at Ravenna, as a church of SS. Sergius and Bacchus. The building is nearly square, with semicircular niches at the angles, and encloses an octagonal interior, between the eight corner-columns of which are four semicircular niches and four straight rows of columns. The junction of the walls with the dome was masked, as later in the Sophia Church, by curved triangular spandrels or pendentives.

Beyond the public garden (p. 549) we enter the RUE DIVAN YOLOU (tramway No. 3, p. 538). At the end of it, on the right, is a railed-in burial-ground containing the handsome Türbeh of Mahmud II. (d. 1839) and his son Abdul Aziz (sultan in 1861–76). Entrance to the right, in Rue Mahmoudié.

In the main street, now called Sedefdjilar Yolou, we next come to the second hill of New Rome (p. 541), crowned with the so-called =Burnt Column= (Pl. G, 6; Turk. Chemberli Tash, ‘stone with the hoop’). This great column of porphyry was erected by Constantine on the ancient ‘triumphal way’, to mark the centre of his forum, and bore his statue in bronze down to 1105. It was restored in 1909. The street then leads past the Kalpakjilar Kapu (on the right), the S. gate of the Great Bazaar (p. 551), to the Bayazid Mosque (p. 551).

From the Burnt Column the Rue Nouri Osmanié leads to the N. to the white marble Mosque of Nuri Osmanieh (Pl. G, 6), a bold dome-roofed edifice copied from the Selim Mosque (p. 553), but with a semicircular forecourt.

Adjacent on the W. is the *=Great Bazaar= (Pl. G, 6; Turk. Büyük Charshi, ‘great market’), one of the sights of Constantinople. It lies in a depression between the Nuri Osmanieh Mosque and the Serasker Square (see below) and forms a distinct quarter of the city, enclosed by gates. As in the sûks (p. 335) the crafts mostly have their own streets or districts. Most of the buildings have been re-erected since the earthquake of 1894. To the early 17th cent. belongs the still extant castellated Valideh Han (see below); of the early 18th cent. are the Bezestán (the main central building, founded in the 10th cent.) and the Sandal Bezestán. Besides genuine Oriental wares many European goods also are sold here.

The Nuri Osmanieh Kapu, on the W. side of the outer court of the mosque, opens on to the KALPAKJILAR BASHI JADDESÍ, the main thoroughfare on the S. side of the Bazaar. Immediately on the right is the Sandal Bezestán, once the silk-bazaar, now a warehouse (usually closed).

The street on the N. side (Restaurant Tokatlian, see p. 537) leads to the W. after a few paces to the =Bezestán= (Pl. Bez.; G, 6), where artistic old weapons, gold and silver wares, inlaid furniture, etc. are displayed. In the street on the E. side are sold jewels and trinkets; on the N. side cloth, Oriental antiquities, and books; on the W. side Turkish women’s apparel and embroidery; on the S. side leather-work, etc.

From the W. gate of the Bezestán we pass through the Bezestán Jaddesí, with its clothes-shops, to the OUSOUN TCHARCHI, the main street ascending from the Rustem Pasha Mosque (p. 545) to the S. gate (Kalpakjilar Kapu, p. 550). Going straight on we may ascend through the curved Fesjiler Jaddesi, the fez-market, to the BIT BAZAR JADDESI, a street running to the N. and S., the entrance to the (left) Second-hand Market (Bat Bazar, jestingly called ‘bit bazar’ or louse-market). In the other direction, a few paces to the N., is the Hakkaklar Sokak, with the stalls of the seal-engravers, booksellers, etc., leading to the Bayazid Mosque.

Those who intend to return from the Great Bazaar direct to the New Bridge (p. 545) may visit also the Valideh Han (Pl. G, 5, 6; see above), the seat of the Persian traders, situated in the Chakmakjilar Yokussu, diverging to the E. from the Ousoun Tcharchi.

On the third hill of the city, the site of the forum of Theodosius I., rise the Bayazid Mosque and the Seraskerat in its large court.

The *=Mosque of Bayazid= (Pl. G, 6) was erected in 1489–97 by the Albanian Kheireddin, under sultan Bayazid, son of Mohammed II., the conqueror. The handsome portals of the forecourt recall Seljuk prototypes. The beautiful forecourt, enlivened ever since the time of the founder by countless pigeons, has pointed arcades with elegant domes. In the centre is an octagonal fountain. The interior, tastelessly painted in the Turkish rococo style in the 18th cent., is a simplified imitation of the Aya Sophia.

To the N. of the mosque the Serasker Kapu, the modern S. gateway, leads into the court, now a drilling-ground, of the Seraskerat (Pl. F, G, 5; or ministry of war). Here once stood the Eski-Seraï, the oldest palace of the sultans (comp. p. 546). The *=Serasker Tower= (closed on Frid.; fee 3–5 pias.), about 200 ft. high, built by Mahmud II. (d. 1839) of white marble from the island of Marmara (p. 535), affords a magnificent view of the city.

Behind the barracks on the N. side of the Seraskerat, or by the Serasker Jaddesi to the right, we descend to the terrace of the Suleiman Mosque, which is surrounded by schools, baths, and the Residence of the Sheikh ul-Islam.

The **=Mosque of Suleiman the Great= (Turk. Suleïmanieh; Pl. F, G, 5), erected in 1550–66 by the Albanian Sinán (Mimar Sinán Agha), on the model of the Aya Sophia and the Bayazid Mosque, is one of the two master-works of this most famous of Turkish architects (the other being the Selim mosque at Adrianople). The superb chief portal on the N.W. side is three stories in height. At the angles of the forecourt (63 by 49½ yds.) rise four minarets of unequal height. The exterior of the mosque is embellished with two arcades; the smaller domes are charmingly grouped round the great dome; the latter, only 85 ft. in diameter, is loftier than that of Aya Sophia.

Notwithstanding the striped decoration with which it was marred at the time of the restoration under Abdul Aziz (p. 550), the interior surpasses all the other mosques of Constantinople in harmony of structure, in picturesqueness of perspective, and in magnificence of ornamentation, but is unfortunately badly lighted. Between the four pillars of the dome, on each side, are two monolith columns, 29 ft. high, with stalactite capitals, supporting the upper stories of the aisles. The *Mihrâb Wall is enriched with beautiful fayence tiles and with stained glass by Serkosh Ibrahim.

In the burial-ground behind the mosque rise the handsome Türbehs of Suleiman (fee 5 pias.) and his favourite wife Roxolana.

From the outer court of the mosque, with its fine old cypresses and plane-trees, we may descend to the E. to Rustem Pasha’s Mosque (p. 545) and the New Bridge (p. 545); or we may go to the N.W. to the Old Bridge (Pl. F, G, 4; p. 555; toll 10 paras) and the Rue Iskander (p. 543).

From the W. gate of the Seraskerat, or from the W. angle of the outer court of the Suleiman mosque, we may soon reach the two-storied =Aqueduct of Valens= (Pl. F, E, 6, 5), dating from the reign of that emperor (368 A. D.) but much restored. It bridges the space between the fourth and third hills of the city.

On the S. side of the aqueduct, near the scene of the great fire of 1908, rises the Shahzadeh Mosque (Pl. E, F, 5; ‘prince’s mosque’), an early work of Sinán (see above), erected by Suleiman in 1543–7 in memory of his son Mohammed. The plan is similar to that of the Mehmedieh (see below). It is charmingly fitted up in the interior. In the two türbehs repose the princes Mohammed and Jíhangir and the princess Mihrimah. As a rule the muezzin permits visitors to ascend one of the minarets for a small gratuity.

From this mosque the Rue Chahsadé Bachi ascends to the N.W. to the =Mosque of Mohammed II.= (Pl. D, E, 4; Mehmedieh or Fatih Jami; comp. p. 542), the holiest in Constantinople after that of Eyúb (p. 555). It was built by the Greek Christodulos in 1463–9 on the fourth hill of the city, on the site and with the materials of the Apostles’ Church. This church, founded by Constantine, had been restored by Justinian and was famous as the burial-place of the emperors.

The outer court, planted with cypresses, on the N.W. side of which a busy market is held, is surrounded, as in the Byzantine age, by a great many miscellaneous buildings. The plan of the mosque is probably the same as that of the Apostles’ Church. The forecourt is commanded by two minarets. The interior, in the form of a Greek cross, has four half-domes in the two axes adjoining the central dome, four smaller corner-domes, and three galleries. The whole building was modernized after the earthquake of 1767.

The first Türbeh behind the mosque is that of ‘the Conqueror’.

From the N.W. corner of the outer court the Sultan Mehmed and Sultan Selim streets lead to the N. to the Mosque of Selim I. (Pl. E, 3; Turk. Selimieh) on the fifth city-hill, erected by Suleiman the Great in 1520–6 in memory of his warlike father Selim I. (p. 542). This is the simplest of all the sultans’ mosques. The outer walls are roofed with a single semicircular dome.

To the S. of Mehmedieh, between the fourth city-hill and the Lykos Valley, among the ruins caused by a fire, rises Marcian’s Column (Pl. D, E, 5; Turk. Kiz Tash, maiden’s stone), erected in honour of that emperor (450–7).

In the Lykos Valley, to the S.W. of Marcian’s Column, once lay the Barracks of the Janissaries (p. 550), who were massacred in the Et Meïdán here (Pl. D, 5; ‘place of flesh’) after a revolt in 1826.—In the Ak Seraï quarter (Pl. D, E, 6), on the ancient triumphal way (p. 550), lay the Roman Forum Boarium (cattle-market). The road ascended thence to the seventh city-hill. Here, in the quarter now called Avret Bazar, is still seen the pedestal of the marble Column of Arcadius (Pl. D, 7; Turk. Avret Tash, women’s stone), the sole surviving relic of the forum of Arcadius.

From the Mehmedieh a main street (carr. 5 pias.) leads direct in ¼ hr., to the N.W., to the Edirneh Kapu (see below).

Beside the city-wall, near Rue Edirné Kapou, is the sixth and highest city-hill, on which rises the Mihrimah Mosque (Pl. C, 3), built in 1556 by Sinán (p. 552) for the princess Mihrimah (p. 545), on the site of the Byzantine monastery of St. George, and restored in 1910.—From the Greek Church of St. George we walk about 250 paces to the N.E., and then descend to the right, near the city-wall, to visit the—

=Kahrieh Mosque= (Pl. C, 2), once the church of the monastery of Chora (‘in the country’), which probably existed before the time of Theodosius II. It was restored in the 11th cent. and enlarged in the 14th, and contains famous Byzantine *Mosaics (sacristan lives near).

We now turn our steps to the ruinous Edirneh Kapu (Pl. C, 2; Adrianople Gate), the gate of Charisius or cemetery-gate (Porta Polyandriu) of the Byzantines.

Outside the gate, where stretches the largest Moslem Cemetery of Stambul, we obtain an excellent view of the old *=Land-Wall= of the city, over 4 M. in length. The chief part of it is the Theodosian Wall (p. 541), extending from the Sea of Marmora to the Tekfur Seraï (see below). This was originally a single wall, defended by towers, but after an earthquake in 447 it was doubled, the two walls being 66 yds. apart and, from the bottom of the moat, 100 ft. high.

The S. part of the land-wall may be visited by carriage (one-horse 10, two-horse 10 or 15 pias.; bargaining necessary) from the Edirneh Kapu. We drive past Top Kapu (Pl. A, 4; ‘cannon-gate’), once the gate of St. Romanos, famed in the siege of 1453, to Yedi Kuleh railway-station (Pl. A, B, 9). We may return thence to the town by local train (about every ½ hr.), or from the Yedi Kuleh Gate by tramway (No. 4; change at Ak Seraï, p. 553), or from Psamatia Kapu (Pl. B, 8) by local steamer (p. 538).

Near the S. end of the wall rises the castle of =Yedi Kuleh= (Pl. A, 9; ‘seven towers’; adm. except Sun. 2½ pias.; small fee to lantern-bearer), rebuilt by Mohammed II., within which is the dilapidated Porta Aurea (‘golden gate’), once the triumphal gate of the Byzantine emperors.—On the Sea of Marmora, at the point where the land-wall joined the Marmora Sea Wall, rises the octagonal Mermer Kuleh (Pl. A, 9; ‘marble tower’), the sole relic of a castle of the time of Emp. Basil II. (976–1025).

To the N.E. of the Edirneh Kapu, beyond the Greek Cemetery (Pl. C, 2), the Theodosian city-wall is joined by the single but stronger Wall of the Blachernae Quarter (‘marsh-land quarter’). This wall served for the defence of the famous St. Mary’s Church of the empress Pulcheria (ca. 450), and for that of the Blachernæ Palace, founded at the end of the 5th cent., which in the 12th cent. became the imperial residence instead of the older palaces in the Augusteion (p. 549). The wall dates partly from the reigns of Emp. Heraklios (610–41), Leo V. (813–20), and Manuel Comnenus (1143–80), but was largely rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries.

The ruined Byzantine palace rising above the town-wall near the small Kerkoporta (Pl. C, 2), the so-called Tekfur Seraï (‘emperor’s palace’), was probably founded by Constantine VII. Porphyrogenetos (912–59). Of the Blachernae Palace itself the foundations are still traceable between the Egri Kapu (Pl. C, 1; once Porta Kaligaria) and the Aivas Effendi Mosque. To the old terrace of the palace belonged the massive Towers of Isaak Angelos and Anemas (Pl. C, 1).

On the N. side the land-walls end with the picturesque castle of Brachionon or Pentapyrgion, answering to the Yedi Kuleh on the S. side. It lies between the inner and the site of the outer Blachernæ gate. Near it are buried the Arabs who fell in 678 (p. 541).

From the Aivan Seraï Kapu (Pl. D, 1), which belongs to the old Sea Wall on the Golden Horn (p. 541), a broad road to the left (N.W.) leads through the suburb of Ortakjilar (Pl. B, C, 1) to (¾ M.) Eyúb (p. 555). Straight on, we soon reach the Aivan Seraï pier (p. 555).

c. The Golden Horn.

By CAÏQUE (p. 538) from the New Bridge to Eyúb about 1 hr., to the Sweet Waters 1½–2 hrs. (there and back 20–25 pias.). The row back is particularly fine towards sunset.—STEAMBOAT (p. 538) to Eyúb in ¾ hr., thence to the Sweet Waters 20 min.

The =Golden Horn=, already named Chrysokeras by the Greeks, an arm of the sea 4½ M. long and at the widest point ½ M. across, probably a submerged side-valley of the Bosporus, is one of the finest natural harbours in the world. In the Byzantine period it was closed for defensive purposes by a chain. It consists of the Outer Commercial Harbour (Pl. H, I, 4, 5), with the Galata Quay (p. 543) and the new quays on the Stambul side, the Inner Commercial Harbour (Pl. G, H, 4), between the two bridges, and the Naval Harbour (Pl. E-G, 2, 3).

The voyager on the Golden Horn is chiefly struck with the busy harbour scenes and the picturesque appearance of the crowded Oriental quarters rising from the banks. Starting from the New Bridge (Pl. H, 4) the steamer crosses the inner commercial harbour to the pier of Yemish Iskelesí (Pl. G, 4) at Stambul, at the foot of the terrace of the Suleiman Mosque, and then passes under the Old Bridge (Pl. F, G, 4; p. 552) into the naval harbour. On the Stambul side it first calls at the piers of Jubali Kapu and Aya Kapu (Pl. F, 3), the latter lying below Selim’s Mosque (p. 553).

Next, on the same side, are the piers of Phanar (Pl. E, 2), the Greek quarter, where a terrible massacre took place in 1821, and Balat (Pl. D, 2), the largest Jewish quarter.

On the opposite bank, from the Old Bridge onwards, lie the dockyard buildings. On the bay of Kasím Pasha (calling-place of some of the steamboats) is the Ministry of Marine (Divan Haneh; Pl. G, 2, 3), with its surrounding barracks, workshops, and docks. In front of it are anchored men-of-war and guard-ships.

The steamer next touches at Ters Haneh (Pl. E, 2), on the E. bank, at the end of the dockyard, and at the Jewish quarter of Haskiöi (Has Keuï; Pl. E, 1); then, on the W. bank, at Aivan Seraï (Pl. D, 1; p. 554), where we have a fine view of the N.E. end of the land-walls and the beginning of the sea-wall on the Golden Horn; then, on the E. bank, at Kalijeh Oglu, and on the W. bank at Defterdar Iskelesí (Pl. C, 1) and Eyúb (see inset plans in Plan of City).

In the suburb of *=Eyúb=, a few minutes’ walk from the pier, is the famous Mosque of Eyúb, where the ceremony of girding each new sultan with the sword takes place. It was built of white marble by Mohammed II., the Conqueror, in 1459, adjacent to the türbeh of Abu Eyúb Ensari, the legendary standard-bearer of the prophet, whose tomb here was revealed in a vision a few days after the conquest. The spot is so revered by the Moslems that until now no Christian dared set foot even in the outer court. Since the establishment of the new Turkish government, however, visitors may enter the deeply impressive court and even the mosque itself, but they should be careful not to remain standing between the railings in the centre of the court and the gilded windows on the wall-side.

From the mosque, up the hill-side to the N.E., extends the picturesque Cemetery, with its venerable cypresses. A path ascends from the mosque, past a monastery (Tekkeh) of the dancing dervishes (p. 543), to the top, where we have a splendid *View of both banks of the Golden Horn.

From Eyúb a smaller local steamer plies through the Stambul Liman, the shallow N.W. arm of the Golden Horn, 1¼ M. long, to Kiathaneh, or Kiahat Haneh; this trip, on Fridays or Sundays in spring, affords an interesting picture of Turkish life. At Kiathaneh two streams fall into the Golden Horn, the so-called =Sweet Waters of Europe= (the Asiatic waters, see p. 558), or Eaux Douces. The eastmost is the Kiathaneh Suyu, in the valley of which, about 1¼ M. up, is a château of the sultan, the most popular holiday resort of the citizens of Constantinople. In the meadows, under shady trees, are erected huts and arbours, where music and amusements of all kinds are provided. The Moslems enjoy themselves sedately here on Fridays; the Christians come on Sundays; hither too the people of fashion ride or drive. Shortly before sunset a whole flotilla of boats on the Golden Horn returns home to the city.

d. Scutari.

STEAM FERRY BOATS from the New Bridge (see p. 538) and Beshiktash to Scutari. Those from the New Bridge to the minor stations Salajak, near the Leander tower, and Harem-Iskelesí, below the Selimieh Barracks (p. 536), are less frequent and are seldom used by strangers.—CARRIAGES have the same tariff as in the city (p. 538). Drive from the pier to the Chamlija Spring and back viâ the Great Cemetery (about 2½ hrs.) 1½ mejidiehs (30 pias.).—HORSE to the Bulgurlu about 1 mej.

The steamer leaves the Seraglio Point on the right and steers to the E. to (¼ hr.) the chief landing-place at Scutari, which lies on the Asiatic shore, in a bay to the N. of the promontory. To the right, off the end of the promontory, is a flat islet on which rises the so-called Leander’s Tower (by the Turks named Kiz Kulesí, i.e. maiden’s tower, from the legend that a sultan’s daughter was once kept here), with a signalling station and lights.

=Scutari= (no European inns), Turk. Üsküdar, the ancient Chrysopolis, the harbour of Chalcedon (p. 536), now a large suburb of Constantinople, contains 90,000 inhab., comparatively few of whom are Armenians and Greeks. Its fine old mosques, its crooked streets, and its small timber houses give it a more Oriental character than Stambul. Until a century ago Scutari was the terminus of the caravan-routes from Asia Minor, by which the treasures of the East were brought to Constantinople. It is still the starting-point of the sacred annual Mecca caravan.

From the pier we follow the broad main street past the Büyük Jami (‘Great Mosque’; 1547), on the left, and the Yeni Valideh Jami (1707–10), on the right, beyond which a road to the right diverges to the Dervishes’ Monastery and the Great Cemetery.

The street, inclining to the left, next leads to the quarters of =Yeni Mahalleh=, with an Armenian cemetery, and =Baglar Bashi=; then, past villas, to the village of =Bulgurlukiöi=. Before the village is reached a road to the left leads to (2 M. from the pier) the =Chamlija Spring=, shaded by great plane-trees, a favourite Friday and Sunday resort like the Sweet Waters (p. 556).

We may thence ascend (to the N., ¼ hr.) the =Great Bulgurlu= or Büyük Chamlija (879 ft.; small café, bargaining necessary), which, in the forenoon especially, affords a superb *View of Constantinople, the Bosporus, and the Sea of Marmora.

On the way back we turn to the left, skirting the Armenian cemetery, to visit the *Great Cemetery (Büyük Mezaristán), the largest Moslem burial-ground in the East. The lower road through it leads to the N. to the Monastery of the Howling Dervishes (Rufaï Tekkeh; no admittance).

To the S. of the Great Cemetery lies Haidar Pasha (p. 536), with a large Military Hospital, where Florence Nightingale (1820–1910) first devoted herself to her philanthropic work. Adjoining the Hospital is the British Cemetery, containing a tall granite Obelisk in memory of the British who fell in the Crimean war.

e. The Bosporus.

LOCAL STEAMERS (p. 538), with 17 stations on the European side and 12 on the Asiatic, never all touched at on the same voyage. To Rumeli Kavak, the northmost station on the W. shore, in 2 hrs., 5 (in summer 6) steamers only. From any station it is easy to ferry to the opposite shore (5–10 pias.).

The Thracian *=Bosporus= (‘ox-ford’, from the Greek myth that Io swam in the shape of a cow from Asia to Europe), Turk. Kara Denis Boghaz or Stambul Boghaz (Black Sea or Stambul Straits), which, like the Dardanelles (p. 534), was formed by the subsidence of a river-valley in the tertiary period (comp. p. xxxiv), connects the Sea of Marmora with the Black Sea. Length 20 M., breadth about 2 M., average depth 89 ft. (greatest about 395 ft.). A surface-stream, quickened by the prevailing N.E. winds, and consisting of the fresher water of the Black Sea, fed by its copious rivers, constantly pours through the straits towards the Mediterranean, while the saltier and heavier water of the latter flows in the opposite direction in a strong under-current into the Black Sea. The steep coast-hills of the N. part, as far as Rumeli Kavak, consist of eruptive rock, basalt, dolerite, and trachyte; in the S. part the prevailing formations are Devonian, clay-slate, greywacke, quarzite, and limestone. The peninsula of Stambul is of the miocene formation.

A trip on the Bosporus affords a highly picturesque and varied panorama of the scenery on its banks, and on the way back we suddenly obtain a striking view of the great city and its suburbs. The more important places only are named below. (L. signifies landing-place or pier.)

WEST BANK. │ EAST BANK. │ Galata Quay and Top Haneh, see │Leander’s Tower and Scutari, pp. 543, 544. │see p. 556. │ Dolma Bagcheh (p. 544), with the │ Seraï of that name, built by │ Abdul Mejid in 1850–5 in the │ overladen ‘Turkish Renaissance’ │ style, now the residence of │ Mohammed V.; the façade on the │ Bosporus is over 700 yds. long; in │ the lofty central building is the │ huge throne-room. │ │ Beyond Beshiktash (p. 544; L.) │Kuskunjuk (L.), a Jewish village, are the ruins of the Chiragan │separated from Scutari by a low Seraï, a similar palace, which was│hill, was almost entirely destroyed burnt down in 1910. │by a disastrous fire in Feb. 1911. │ At Ortakiöi (L.), a suburb with │Beylerbey (L.). The Beylerbey beautiful gardens and a pretty │Seraï, built by Abdul Aziz in mosque (1870), the city is seen │1865, is the most tasteful sultan’s astern for the last time. │palace on the Bosporus. │ We round a headland and next come │Chengelkiöi (L.) and Vanikiöi to the villages of Kuru Cheshmeh │(L.), where we lose sight of (L.) and Arnautkiöi (L.).The │Stambul. We next pass Top Dagh latter lies on the Akinti Burnu, │(427 ft.; ‘cannon-hill’), famed for a headland swept by a strong │its view of the whole of the current. │Bosporus. Kandili (L.) lies on a │headland opposite the bay of Bebek. │ Bebek (L.), on a beautiful bay, │ with villas (yali) of wealthy │ Turks, an English and American │ summer resort. On the hill to the │ N. is the Robert College, an │ American institution founded in │ 1863. │ │ │Between Kandili and Anatoli Hissar │(see below) opens the Valley of │the Sweet Waters of Asia, at the │mouth of the Büyük (great) and │Küchük (little) Gök Su, a favourite │Friday resort of │Moslem-excursionists in summer. │ Above the cypresses of an old │Anatoli Hissar (L.; ‘Asiatic cemetery rise the picturesque │Castle’), or Güzel Hissar towers and walls of Rumelí Hissar│(‘beautiful castle’), the (L.; ‘European castle’), built by │picturesque castle by the sea, Mohammed II. in 1452, shortly │which gives its name to the before the siege of Constantinople │village, was erected by Bayazid I. (p. 542), to command the narrowest │in 1393 as an outwork against part of the Bosporus (722 yds. │Byzantium. only). Here, too, the current │ (sheïtan akintisi, ‘Satan’s │ stream’) is at its strongest. │ │ Beyond Emirgian (L.) come the │Kanlija (L.), on a small headland palaces built by Ismaîl, khedive of│(beacon). Egypt (d. 1895; p. 444). │ │ Stenia (L.), in a deep and │Chibukli, on the Bay of Beïkos, sheltered bay, and Yenikiöi (L.; │where the British and French fleets Greek Neochori), both inhabited │met for the Crimean war. At the chiefly by Greeks and Armenians. At│head of the bay, beyond Pasha the N. end of the headland are the │Bagcheh (L.) lies =Beïkos=, summer seats of the American and │usually the northmost steamboat Austrian ambassadors. │station. │ │From Beïkos we may ascend the │=Giant’s Mt.= or =Yusha Dagh= (640 │ft.; ‘Mt. Joshua’), an important │landmark for ships coming from the │Black Sea. The road to it (1 hr.; │carr. ½ mej.) ascends past the │palace of Mohammed Ali Pasha and │through the grassy, well-wooded, │and well-watered valley of Hunkiar │Iskelesí, once a favourite country │seat of the Byzantine emperors and │the sultans. On the top are a │mosque, the ‘tomb of the giant │Joshua’, and a small café. *View │over the whole Bosporus, but │Constantinople is hidden. │ =Therapia= (L.; Summer Palace Hot.;│ Hôt. Tokatlian, etc.; pop. 5000), a│ large and handsome village, on a │ small bay, with cafés by the sea │ and terraced gardens. On the quay, │ to the N. of the bay, are the │ summer residences of the British │ (lofty white building), French, and│ Italian ambassadors; on the N. side│ of the bay is that of the German │ ambassador. │ │ │The steamers plying beyond Beïkos │proceed thence straight across the │Bosporus to Yenikiöi (see above) │on the European shore, where │corresponding with them there are │generally steamboats plying viâ │Therapia (see above) to Mezar │Burnu (see below) and to Rumelí │Kavak (p. 560). Thence they go on │to the last station on the Asiatic │shore— │ Near the small cape Kiretsh │ Burnu, with its battery and │ beacon, the Black Sea becomes │ visible in the distance. │ │ =Büyükdereh= (L.; Hôt. Bellevue; │ Hôt. d’Europe; Hôt. Platane, etc.; │ pop. 6000) is one of the most │ frequented summer resorts of the │ wealthy Europeans of │ Constantinople, with handsome │ houses in the N. part. The Bay of │ Büyükdereh (‘great valley’) forms │ the broadest part of the Bosporus │ (2 M.). │ │ At the N. end of the bay are Mezar│ Burnu (L.), a small village, and │ Yeni Mahalleh, at the mouth of │ the ‘rose valley’, the terminus of │ most of the steamers. │ │ Five or six boats only go on, │=Anatoli Kavak=, a genuine Turkish passing the ruinous fort _Telli │village, lying on the Majar Bay Tabia_ and the Dikili Cliffs, to │between two strongly fortified =Rumelí Kavak=, a village near a │headlands. On the N. headland rises fortress built by Murad IV. in 1628│also the picturesque ruin of the and restored in 1890. The walls of │Byzantine castle of Yoros Kalesí, the ruined Byzantine castle of │called the Genoese Castle since Imros Kalesí, on a hill to the │the 14th century. In ancient times N., once extending down to the sea,│the headland and the strait, one of were prolonged by moles, like those│the narrowest parts of the of Yoros Kalesí opposite, so that a│Bosporus, were named Hieron chain could be carried across. │(sanctuary) after the altar of the │twelve gods, where Jason is said │once to have sacrificed, and after │a temple of Zeus Urios, the │dispenser of favourable winds. │ At the N. end of the Bosporus the │ banks, which bristle with forts and│ batteries, consist of almost │ perpendicular basaltic rock, above │ which runs a hill-path. Between │ Rumelí Kavak and the headland │ Karibjeh Kalesí the little bay of│ Büyük Liman offers the first │ refuge to vessels of slight draught│ coming from the N. │ │ │In the Majar Bay vessels coming │from the Black Sea have to show │their papers before entering the │Bosporus. Then comes Kechili Bay, │bounded on the N. by the cape Fil │Burnu, and defended by a fort, as │is also the Poiras Burnu, a │little farther to the N.E. │ The Bosporus now expands at its N. │Next, on the rocky coast, are the entrance to 2¾ M., near =Rumelí │village and beyond it the low cape Fanar=, a Greek village │of =Anatoli Fanar=, with the (Fenerkiöi or Fanaraki), with a│Anatolian lighthouse and a fort lighthouse and a strong fortress on│rising above it. the rock to the N. of the bay. To │ the E. rise a number of dark │ basaltic cliffs, the Cyanean │ Islands or Symplegades (i.e. │ the rocks which, according to the │ ancient tradition, ‘clash │ together’), between which Jason had│ to pass on the Argonautic │ expedition. │ │ │Farther on are Kabakos Bay, in │the basaltic rocks of which nestle │countless sea-fowl, and, at the N. │mouth of the Bosporus, the abrupt │Yum Burnu, with a battery and │rescue-station for the shipwrecked.

IX. THE BLACK SEA.

Route Page 82. From Constantinople to Constantza 561 83. From Constantinople to Odessa 563 84. From Odessa to Batum 568 Yalta, 569. 85. From Batum to Constantinople 571

The =Black Sea= (Turk. Kara Denis; Russ. Chornoye More; p. xxxiv), the Pontus Euxinus of the ancients, sometimes deserves its name for the dark-blue hue of its waters, which is markedly different from the blue of the Mediterranean. Its area, nearly equal to that of the Baltic, amounts to 163,689 sq. M., without including the 14,519 sq. M. of the Sea of Azov (p. xxxiv) which is united with the Black Sea by the narrow Straits of Kertch (p. 570) and separated from the shallow Gulf of Odessa (p. 564) by the Crimean Peninsula. The basin proper of the Black Sea is a huge depression, falling away rapidly from its margin to its centre, where it reaches a depth of ca. 7365 ft. Its flow and ebb are not perceptible. Owing to the great rivers it receives its surface-water is but slightly salt (1.8 per cent), but the deep water is more saline (2.2 to 2.3 per cent). The bottom is coated with black mud impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen and is therefore entirely destitute of animal life. On warm summer nights the phosphorescence of the water is very observable. As in the Mediterranean, the vessels are often followed by dolphins.

During almost the whole of summer gentle N. and N.E. winds, with a clear sky, prevail in the S.W. part of the Black Sea. At other seasons the wind is very variable. The N.W. and W. winds often bring fog, which makes the entrance of the Bosporus difficult. In winter and about the time of the equinox dangerous storms from the S. and S.E. are by no means rare.

82. From Constantinople to Constantza.

224 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539; at Constantza, see p. 563). =1.= Royal Rumanian State Maritime Service (Serviciul Maritim Român; in correspondence with the North German Lloyd; comp. R. 76), from Constantinople on Tues. and Sat. aft. in 14 hrs. (from Constantza on Sun. and Thurs. night in 12 hrs.; comp. p. 563); fare 55 or 35 fr.—=2.= Austrian Lloyd (for Odessa and Nikolayev) from Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (from Constantza on Thurs. night viâ Varna), in about 1½ days (fare 51 fr., 20 fr.; in the reverse direction 44 fr., 20 fr.); also by Line Braila B, from Constantinople every other Frid. aft. viâ Varna, in 2 days (from Constantza direct to Constantinople Wed. aft., in 19 hrs.); fare 58 (back, 46) or 25 fr. (without food in 2nd cabin).—=3.= Società Nazionale, Line XIII (for Braila), from Constantinople Sun. aft. (from Constantza Mon. aft.), in 17 hrs. (fare 40 or 28 fr.).

For Constantinople and the voyage through the Bosporus, see p. 536 and pp. 557–560.

The Rumanian and Italian vessels pursue a N. course through the Black Sea, long affording fine retrospects of the precipitous shores of Anatolia and the fissured promontories of the Rumelian coast.

Steering to the N.W. the Odessa steamer of the Austrian Lloyd reaches the open sea off Rumelí Fanar (p. 560). It again, however, approaches the Rumelian coast abreast of Cape Iniada (Turk. Kuru Burnu), the Thynias Promontorium of the ancients.

Beyond the far-projecting Cape Kuratan or Zeitün Burnu (lights), belonging to S. Bulgaria (formerly E. Rumelia), opens the wide Gulf of Burgas. We pass the peninsula of Sozopolis and the lighthouses of the islands of Megalo Nisi and Anastasia, and enter the Bay of Burgas, which runs deeply into the land from the middle of the gulf.

=Burgas= (Hôt. Commercial, etc.), the modern Greek Pyrgos, is the chief harbour of S. Bulgaria (11,700 inhab.) and lies at the head of the bay between large lagoons. The harbour is tolerably sheltered from the E. wind by two moles. The chief exports are grain and attar of roses.

In continuing our voyage we pass the peninsula of Mesembriya (the ancient Mesembria) and Cape Emine (lighthouse), the N. horn of the Bay of Burgas, forming a spur of the well-wooded Little Balkan Range, the old frontier between E. Rumelia and Bulgaria.

On the N. margin of the Balkan Mts. lies =Varna=, the ancient Odessos, now the chief seaport of Bulgaria (pop. 35,000), where some of the Austrian Lloyd steamers call. The entrance to the bay of Varna, open towards the E., is bounded on the S. by Cape Galata (Galata Burnu; lighthouse) and on the N. by Cape St. George. The anchorage, between two long moles, is similar to that of Burgas. The Devna Canal connects the bay with Lake Devna.

Farther on the steamer rounds Cape Kaliakra (Turk. Chiliga Burnu; lighthouse), jutting far to the S., and rejoins the course of the direct steamer from the Bosporus to Constantza. Next comes Cape Shabla (lights), 10–12 M. to the N. of which lies the village of Ilanjik, on the border between Bulgaria and the Rumanian Dobruja. At night the position of the flat coast is revealed by the lights of the small port of Mangalia and of Cape Tusla, stretching in front of the lagoon of Mangalia.

After a short halt in the open roads all the steamers pass through the entrance to the harbour of Constantza and moor alongside the quays of the E. mole. The landing-place of the Rumanian mail-steamers (see below) is close to the harbour-station.

=Constantza.=—HOTELS (crowded in the latter half of Aug. and in Sept.). Hôt. Carol I., at the E. end of the headland, of the first class, with garden, R. 6–10, B. 1½, déj. 4, D. 5 fr. (lei); Regina, Raynier, etc.

POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, to the E. of the chief railway-station; branch-office at the harbour.—CAB 2 lei.

STEAMBOAT AGENCIES. Rumanian State Maritime Service (see below), at the landing-stage; Austrian Lloyd, H. Rappaport; Società Nazionale, E. Tozzi.

BRITISH VICE-CONSUL, Lionel E. Keyser.—LLOYD’S AGENTS, Watson & Youell.

Constantza (Ruman. Constanţa, Turk. Küstenjeh), a seaport with 17,000 inhab. and in summer a popular Rumanian seaside-resort (see below), lies on a small tongue of land rising boldly from the sea and enclosing with the E. mole (1500 yds.) a sickle-shaped harbour. The latter, which is always free from ice, is not yet quite complete. Beside the S. mole is the so-called petroleum-harbour. Petroleum, agricultural produce, and timber are the chief exports.

From the harbour-station the chief promenade of the town leads past the Cathedral (left) and the new Municipal Casino (right) to the Lighthouse at the E. end of the promontory. In the Piaţa Independenţei (Independence Square), at the narrowest part of the peninsula, rises a monument to Ovid, who died in exile at the neighbouring Tomi (afterwards Constantiana) in 17 A.D.

In summer there is a train-service to (½ hr.) Mamaia, with a large bathing-establishment.

The sailings (Sun. & Thurs.) and arrivals (Sun. & Wed.) of the Rumanian mail-boats are in connection with the arrivals and departures (at and from the harbour-station) of the Ostende-Vienna Express, the Berlin Rapide, and the Bukarest Express.

83. From Constantinople to Odessa.

397 M. STEAMBOATS (agents at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539; at Odessa, p. 565). =1.= North German Lloyd (Mediterranean & Levant Service, RR. 23, 24, 77, 80), to Odessa (and Batum) every other Sun. evening in 1½ days (48 or 32 marks).—=2.= Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co.: (a) by the direct Alexandria line (p. 491) from Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Thurs.) foren., in 29 hrs. (80 or 50 fr.); (b) Two circular lines to Syria and Egypt (p. 466), each every other Thurs. or Frid. aft. (from Odessa Sat.), in ca. 1½ days (same fares); (c) Anatolian Line (p. 571) from Constantinople every other Sat. (from Odessa Mon.) aft., in ca. 1½ days (68 or 42 fr., without food).—=3.= Austrian Lloyd (Odessa and Nikolayev Line) from Constantinople every other Sat. aft. viâ Burgas (p. 562) and Constantza (see above), in 2½ days (fares, 1st class 78 fr., 2nd class, without meals, 30 fr.). On the return trips (3¼ days) the boats leave Odessa on Wed. aft. and call at Constantza and Varna (p. 562).—=4.= Società Nazionale, Lines X & XI (Genoa to Odessa), from Constantinople Thurs. aft. (from Odessa Frid. even.), sometimes calling at Burgas or Constantza, in ca. 1½ days (fare 60 or 47 fr.).—=5.= Messageries Maritimes (Marseilles to Odessa), from Constantinople Mon. (from Odessa Wed.) in 3 days (60 or 40 fr.).

For Russian money, see p. 565.—Russian time is that of E. Europe (p. 537).

For Constantinople and the voyage through the Bosporus, see p. 536 and pp. 557–560.

The direct boats steer to the N.N.E. across the Black Sea (p. 561) all the way to the Gulf of Odessa (p. xxxiv). Opposite the mouths of the Danube and about 26 M. from the coast-town of Kilia we sight, on the left, the Isle of Serpents (Ruman. Ins. Serpilor, Greek Fidonisi), a bare islet of limestone rock, with a lighthouse, belonging to Rumania.

The flat coast of Bessarabia, with its numerous lagoons (Russ. Liman); is visible only in clear weather.

On the Dniester Liman, or great lagoon of the Dniester, lie the towns of Akkerman (the ancient Tyras) and Ovidiopol and the lighthouse at the mouth of the Zaregrad, beyond which we approach the abrupt edge of the great steppe of S. Russia, which is intersected by deep defiles known as Ovrági or Bálki. Important landmarks are the Kovalevski Tower, once the water-tower at Lustdorf (p. 568), and the lighthouses on the promontory of Bolshoi Fontan, at the Great Fountain (p. 568).

Nearing the Harbour of Odessa we have a good view of the whole sea-front of the city and of the series of villas (datshas) between the Great Fountain and Cape Lansheron. The steamer passes the Vorontsóv Lighthouse on the outer mole (p. 566) and then anchors in the ‘quarantine harbour’.

=Odessa.=—ARRIVAL BY SEA. The examination of passports and luggage, which not even the passenger bound for more distant places escapes, occupies a considerable time. If the steamer is not berthed at the quay passengers are landed by small boat (40 copecks, with baggage 50 cop.; in stormy weather 60–75 cop.) at the Platonovsky Mole (Pl. E, 4, 5). Passengers going straight on by railway should take a cab direct to the main railway-station (70 cop., with pair 1 roub. 40 cop., incl. luggage; see p. 565).

The =Main Railway Station= (Grande Gare; Pl. D, 7, 8) is the terminus of through EXPRESS TRAINS from Berlin viâ Oderberg, Cracow, Lemberg, Podvoloczyska, and Shmerinka (41 hrs.; fare 130 or 82 marks) and viâ Alexandrovo, Warsaw, Brest, Rovno, Kasatin, and Shmerinka (42 hrs.; fare 122 marks 95 or 75 marks 90 pfennige), and from Vienna viâ Oderberg and Podvoloczyska (35½ hrs.).

=Hotels.= *LONDON (Pl. b; D, 5), Nikoláyevsky Boul. 11, with sea-view, R. from 2½ roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–3) 1, D. (3–8) 2 roub.; *ST. PETERSBURG (Pl. c; D, 4), corner of Yekateríninskaya and Nikoláyevsky Boul., also with sea-view, R. from 2½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.; *BRISTOL (Pl. i; D, 5), corner of Púshkinskaya and Kondratenko Sts., R. 1½–15 roub., B. 60 cop., déj. (11–2) ¾, D. (1–8) 1–2 roub.; *YEVROPÉISKAYA (Pl. d; D, 5), Púshkinskaya 4, commercial, R. from 1½, B. ½, déj. (11–1) ¾, D. (1–7) 1¼ roub.—HÔT. DE PARIS (Paríshskaya; Pl. f, D 5), Púshkinskaya 8; HÔT. PASSAGE, cor. of Deribássovskaya and Preobrashénskaya (Pl. C, 5), etc.

=Restaurants= at the *London, *Yevropéiskaya, *Bristol, and St. Petersburg hotels; also Alexander Park (p. 568), in summer only, with beautiful view; Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (p. 566; in summer), déj. 60 cop., D. ¾–1 roub.; Exchange (p. 568), D. 60 cop.; Bruhns (luncheon rooms), Deribássovskaya 16 (in the court).

=Cafés.= Fanconi, corner of Yekateríninskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5; newspapers); Robinat, Yekateríninskaya, near Nikoláyevsky Boul. (Pl. D, 5); Liebmann, corner of Preobrashénskaya and Deribássovskaya (Pl. C, D, 5); Palais Royal, Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5), café-restaurant, D. 50 cop.

=Cabs= (Isvóshtshik). To the Main Railway Station, with luggage, 35 cop.; to or from the Quarantine Harbour, with luggage, 70 cop.; drive in the town 20, per hour 50, each addit. ½ hr. 25 cop.; to Lansherón 30 cop.; to the Small, to the Middle, and to the Great Fountains 75 cop., 1 roub. 10, 1 roub. 50 cop.—Carriage and Pair (‘phaeton’) cost double the above mentioned fares.

=Tramways= (horse) from the Main Railway Station (Pl. D, 7) through Rishelyévskaya, Lansherónovskaya, and Khersónskaya to the Hospital (Pl. B, C, 3); from the Old Churchyard (Pl. C, 8) to a point below the Voyénny-Spusk (Pl. D, 4), every 5 min.; from corner of Preobrashénskaya and Malaya Arnaútskaya (Pl. C, 7) to the Little Fountain (p. 568), every 10 min. in ¾ hr. (with branch to Arkadia); from corner of Kanátnaya and Skóbelevskaya (Pl. E, 6) to Lansherón (p. 568), every 10 minutes.—=Electric Tramway= from the Greek Bazaar (Pl. 2; D, 5) to Lansherón (p. 568), every 3 minutes.—=Steam Tramway= from Kulikóvo Póle (Pl. D, 8) to the Great Fountain (p. 568), every 25 min., in ¾ hr. (15 cop. to the Middle Fountain, 20 cop. to the Great).

=General Post & Telegraph Office= (Pl. 24; C, 4, 5), Sadóvaya 8 (poste restante upstairs, to the left). Foreign letters 10, post-cards 4 cop.

=Banks.= Imperial (Pl. 1; D, 6), Shúkovskaya 9 (open 9.30–3); Chayés, Rishelyévskaya; Crédit Lyonnais, corner of Rishelyévskaya and Lansherónovskaya (Pl. D, 5; 10–4).—=Money.= The Russian roubel, divided into 100 copecks, is worth about 2_s._ 2_d._—MONEY CHANGER. Gruber, Deribássovskaya (Pl. D, 5).—=Booksellers.= Becker & Wedde, Berndt, both in Deribássovskaya.

=Sea Baths= at Lansherón (stony), the Fountains, Arkadia, Lustdorf (more open sea), and other places.

=Consuls.= British Consul-General, Ch. S. Smith, Kanatnaya 31.—U. S. Consul, J. H. Grout, same street, No. 33; vice-consul, _A. W. Smith_.

=Police Headquarters=, Preobrashénskaya 38 (Pl. 23; C, 5).

=Steamboat Agents.= North German Lloyd and German Levant Line, McNabb, Rougier, & Co.; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Lansherónowskaya 5; Austrian Lloyd, Regir; Società Nazionale, Vitale & Gallian; Messageries Maritimes, C. Muntz.

=Theatres.= Town Theatre (Pl. 29; D, 5), Theatre Square, operas and dramas; Sibiryakóv Theatre (‘Theatre’; Pl. C, 4), corner of Khersónskaya and Kónnaya, for operas and plays.—PLEASURE RESORTS. Hôt. du Nord; Alexander Park (p. 568); Arkadia (p. 568); Little Fountain (p. 568).—Circus Truzzi (Pl. 4; C, 4), also a theatre of varieties.—English Club (Pl. 6; D, 5).

=English Church=, Remeslennaya 15 (Pl. D, 6, 7).

SIGHTS (one day or less). Nikoláyevsky Boulevard and Monument of Catharine (p. 567); drive through Yekateríninskaya, Preobrashénskaya, Deribássovskaya. and Púshkinskaya (as far as the Exchange); Alexander Park (p. 568) and Lansherón (p. 568).

Odessa (154 ft.), in the province of Khersón, is the chief commercial and industrial place on the Black Sea and the fourth-largest town of the Russian Empire (pop. 500,000, including at least 175,000 Jews). It is the seat of an archbishop of the Greek church and of a modern Russian University, and it is the headquarters of the 8th army-corps. It lies in 46°28′ N. lat. and 30°45′ E. long, and extends for a distance of about 4 M. over the elevated and treeless steppe. The winter climate is consequently very severe (mean temperature in Jan. 25° Fahr., July 73°, annual mean 49°). Its wide and well-paved streets, crossing each other at right angles and generally planted with trees, make it one of the most regularly laid out and most handsome cities in Russia. Attractive parks have been as it were wrested from the barren soil by dint of untiring perseverance and unstinted care.

The rescript in which Catharine II. ordered the foundation of the town was dated May, 1794, and its foundation-stone was laid by Admiral J. de Ribas in August of the same year. The new city, which sprang up on the site of the small Tartar and Turkish village of Chadshibéy, was probably named after the Sarmatian harbour of Odessos which is said to have lain in this neighbourhood. From 1817 to 1859 Odessa was a free harbour. It was greatly improved by the efforts of two of its governors, the Duc de Richelieu (1803–14) and Prince Vorontsóv (1823–54). During the Crimean war the town was attacked unsuccessfully by the British and French fleets in 1854, and the blockade by Turkish war-ships in 1876–7 was equally fruitless. The excesses of the revolution of 1905 were nowhere more ghastly than at Odessa.

The =Harbour= (347 acres in area), which in winter has sometimes to be kept open by ice-breakers, consists of an outer harbour (154 acres) and five inner basins. Effective protection against all sea-winds is afforded by a breakwater (1334 yds. long), the quarantine mole (1120 yds. long), and the so-called roadstead mole (710 yds. long), forming a continuation of the last. The so-called Quarantine Harbour (Pl. E, F, 5) is for foreign vessels; the New Harbour (Pl. E, 4), between the Platonovsky and New moles, and the Coal Harbour (Pl. D, E, 4) are for Russian traders; the Practical Harbour (Pl. D, 3, 4) is for coasting vessels. To the N. of the town, opposite the suburb of Peressyp, where a second breakwater and new docks are projected, lies the Petroleum Harbour.

Opposite the New Mole (Pl. E, 4) is a massive Flight of Granite Steps (193 in number) ascending to the level of the town. It is adjoined by a wire-rope elevator (3 or 2 cop.).

The finest feature of this part of the town is the *=Nikoláyevsky Boulevard= (Pl. D, E, 4, 5), a broad street ¼ M. in length, which stretches along the margin of the plateau above the harbour, commanding an unimpeded view of the sea. It is bounded on one side by a series of handsome buildings, on the other by four rows of trees and pleasant grounds. In spring this is the rendezvous of the fashionable world, just as the Deribássovskaya (p. 567) is in winter. Towards the N. the houses end with the Vorontsóv Palace. The Imperial Palace (Pl. D, 5) is also the residence of the general in command of the Odessa Military District. At the entrance to the Yekateríninskaya a bronze statue of the Duc de Richelieu (Pl. 32; see above) was erected in 1826.

A little to the S.W., in Catharine Square, rises the Monument of Empress Catharine II. (Pl. 31; D, 4), by Dmítrenko and Popóv (1900). Round the pedestal bearing the bronze statue of the empress are figures of Prince Potémkin (in front), Count Súbov (on the right), Col. de Volant (left), and Admiral J. de Ribas (at the back). The monument is 35 ft. high.

From this point the Yekateríninskaya, one of the main streets of the city, leads towards the S. Just beyond the Theatre Square (see below) we turn to the right and follow the DERIBÁSSOVSKAYA (Pl. C, D, 5), a short street with the finest shops in Odessa, skirting the Deribássov Garden, to the—

SOBÓRNAYA SQUARE (Pl. C, 5), with its pleasure-grounds and fountain. On the W. side of the square rises the Cathedral of the Transfiguration (Pl. 13), founded in 1794, in length 114, in breadth 46 yds., and 164 ft. high. It has a dome, rising over the centre, and a tower 266 ft. high. In the interior, to the right of the main entrance, is the tomb of Prince Vorontsóv (d. 1856; see below).—In the grounds to the N. of the church is a bronze statue of Prince Vorontsóv (Pl. 22; p. 566), by Brugger (1863).—On its E. side the square is skirted by the Preobrashénskaya (Pl. C, D, 7–4), the longest street in the town.

To the N. of the Sobórnaya Square diverges from the last-named street to the N.W. the Khersónskaya, with the building of the New Russian University (Pl. 30; C, 4), which was opened in 1865 and contains archæological, natural history, and other collections (open on Sun. 12–2).—At the N. end of the Torgóvaya (Pl. B, C, 4, 5) is the Rússov Picture Gallery, with modern Russian paintings (shown on application).

At the end of the Sadóvaya is the NEW BAZAAR SQUARE (Pl. C, 4), where a market is held daily. The Market Hall is overshadowed by a massive building of 1847, the large Sryétenskaya or Novobasárnaya Church (Pl. 18), with five domes.

We return by Deribássovskaya to the THEATRE SQUARE. The handsome =Town Theatre= (Pl. 29; D, 5) was erected by the Viennese architects Fellner and Hellmer (1887).

A few paces to the W. of Theatre Square, at the S. end of the Nikoláyevsky Boulevard (p. 566), rises the TOWN HALL (Dúma; Pl. 7, D, E, 5), an edifice in the Greek style, with a portico of twelve columns. Adjacent are a fountain with a bronze bust of the poet Alexander Púshkin (1799–1837; p. 570) and a cannon from the British man-of-war ‘Tiger’, sunk in 1854.

In the square in front of the Dúma is the Museum of Antiquities (Pl. 3; D, 5), with objects found at the Greek colonies on the Black Sea.

From the Dúma the PÚSHKINSKAYA leads to the Main Railway Station (p. 564). To the left, at the corner of the Kondratenko Street, is the Exchange (Pl. 5; D, 6), a tasteful erection by Bernadazzi (1899).

To the E. of the E. end of the Kondratenko Street, above the Quarantine Harbour (p. 566), lies the =Alexander Park= (Pl. E, 5, 6; restaurant, see p. 565), a popular resort where open-air concerts take place in summer in favourable weather. The Monument of Alexander II., a tall column of labradorite, commemorates a visit of that monarch in 1875. About ½ M. farther out is Lansherón, a sea-bathing place (tramway, see p. 565).

From Lansherón a series of villas (datshas) and private gardens extends along the sea to the Little Fountain (tramway), with a garden-restaurant (band) and good sea-bathing, Arkadia (tramway; band), the Middle Fountain (steam-tramway, see p. 565; excellent beach), and the Great Fountain (reached from the terminus of the steam-tramway by cab, 20–30 cop.), a village with the extensive Uspénskiy Monastery, the goal of an annual pilgrimage. These three villages take their name from a spring which once supplied Odessa with water.

Still farther to the S. is the German colony of Lustdorf or Olgino, with vineyards and frequented sea-baths (tramway from the Great Fountain in 20 min., fare 20 cop.; cab 1½–2 roub.).

See also Baedeker’s Russland or Baedeker’s Russie (not yet published in English).

84. From Odessa to Batum.

723 M. STEAMSHIP LINES (agents at Odessa, see p. 565; at Batum, see p. 570). =1.= North German Lloyd (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. 563), from Odessa to Batum (and Constantinople) every fourth Monday. Passengers between the two Russian ports are not carried. Fares from Constantinople as at p. 571.—=2.= Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co. (direct Crimea and Caucasus Line) from Odessa to Batum every Mon. aft. or even. (from Batum every Sun. night), viâ Sebastopol, Yalta, Feodóssiya, and Novorossysk, in 4 days (1st cl. 41¾ roub.).

Odessa, see p. 564. The LLOYD STEAMERS pursue a S.E. course, straight towards Cape Chersonese (see p. 569).

The flat Cape Tarkhankut (lighthouse), the W. extremity of the =Crimea= (p. xxxiv) or Tauric Peninsula (the ancient Chersonesus Taurica), remains out of sight. On the S.E. the Yaila Mts., extending to the Chatyr-Dagh (4990 ft.), gradually come into view, along with the hilly district in front of them sloping thence to the rolling steppes in the N. part of the Crimea.

In clear weather we may descry to the E. Cape Constantine, the N. horn of the Bay of Sebastopol (Russ. Sevastópol), the best natural harbour of the Black Sea, measuring about 4½ M. from side to side. The higher parts of the town of Sebastopol, the chief naval harbour of S. Russia, famous for its siege (1854–5) during the Crimean War, also are visible.

As soon as we have rounded the flat Cape Chersonese (lighthouse), the S.W. extremity of the Crimea, we see before us the S. coast of the peninsula, rising gradually to the precipices of Cape Aiya.

To the left rises Cape Fiolente, the Parthenium of the ancients, the supposed site of the sanctuary of Artemis in which Iphigenia served as priestess. Beyond it, above the steep and wooded shore, is St. George’s Monastery, founded in 988.

In the distance, between bare rocks on either hand, is the narrow entrance to the Bay of Balaclava, supposed to correspond with Homer’s description of the Læstrygonian Bay (Odyss. X, 86–94). The picturesque little town of Balaclava, the ancient Symbolon Portus and the seat in the middle ages of the Genoese colony of Cémbalo, was the chief base of the British army in the Crimean war, famed for the gallant charge of the Light Brigade (25th Oct., 1854), commemorated by Tennyson.

Beyond Cape Aiya (1919 ft.), which in clear weather is visible for some 68 M., opens the Bay of Laspi, enclosed by the W. spurs of the Yaila Mts.

When abreast of Cape Sarýtsh (lighthouse), the S. point of the Crimea, below the Church of Foros and the Baidar Gate (1634 ft.; celebrated for its view), the Lloyd vessels pursue an E.S.E. course direct for Batum. The picturesque and exuberantly fertile coast of the so-called Russian Riviera lies to our left, but all that we can descry are the precipitous Cape Kikeneïs, the range of the Ai-Petri (4046 ft.), and the distant Cape Ai-Todór (see below).

The RUSSIAN STEAMER calls first at Sebastopol (p. 568) and beyond Cape Sarýtsh steers near the coast. The chief points visible are Mshátka, Miláss (recognizable by its four towers), Cape Kikeneïs (see above), and the lofty and abrupt cliff of Divo, below Lemény. We soon sight the superb château of Alúpka (p. 570), with Mt. Ai-Petri, the white Moorish château of Julber, and Cape Ai-Todór, with the villa of Schwalbennest.

Beyond the headland Yálta is disclosed to view. In the distance to the N.E. rises Ayu-Dagh (‘bear hill’; 1854 ft.). We pass Oreánda and Livadia (p. 570) and land at the mole of—

=Yálta.=—HOTELS. *Rossíya (Pl. a), R. from 2–3, B. ¾, D. 1¼ roub.; Fránziya (Pl. c). rather cheaper; Hôt. de Yalta (Pl. d), in a high site, good, R. from 1½ roub., D. from 80 cop. to 1 roub.; Márino (Pl. i); Oreánda; Métropole; Grand-Hôtel (Pl. f), etc.—RESTAURANT in the public gardens D. ½–1 roub.

CABS (good ‘phaetons’ and pair). Drive in the town (also to or from harbour) 20–50 cop. (luggage 10 cop.); hour 70, each addit. ½ hr. 30 cop.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, at the Oreánda Hotel (see above).—SEA BATHS (10–15 cop.), on the Nábereshnaya (stony beach).—The Yalta section of the Club Alpin de Crimée arranges, from April to Oct., drives (fare 1½ roub.) and walks in the environs. In the club-house (Pl. 3; with museum and meteorological station), beside the police-bridge, the programme for the week may be consulted.

Yálta or Jálta, the capital of a district, with 20,000 inhab., most picturesquely situated in a bay formed by the spurs of the abrupt Yaila Mts. (p. 568), is the most fashionable watering-place in the Crimea (mean annual temperature 57° Fahr.). The Nábereshnaya or Marine Esplanade and the adjacent shady town-garden (20 cop.) are the chief promenades.

To the E. of Yalta, and reached in 1 hr. by the upper road to Gursuff (see below), is the (3 M.) beautiful park of *Lower Massándra (carr. there and back 1 roub. 60 cop.; adm. by season-tickets which are issued free of charge at the director’s office on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5). Adjacent, on the N.E., is Upper Massándra, with a small imperial château.—To the E. of Lower Massándra are the vineyards of Maharátsh and (4½ M. from Yalta) Nikíta, with an interesting acclimatization-garden, founded in 1812.

In beautiful grounds about 2 M. to the S.W. of Yalta are the two imperial palaces of Livádia. Adm. on week-days, 9–12 and 2–5, on showing one’s passport at the director’s office. From the park of Livadia we may next go by the ‘Lower Road’ to the adjoining park of Oreánda (carr. from Yalta 3 roub. 20 cop.), which likewise is imperial property. Since it was burned in 1882 the castle has remained a ruin. A good view is obtained from the Krestóvaya Gorá (614 ft.) or ‘Hill of the Holy Cross’.

About 11 M. to the S.W. of Yalta (carr. 3 roub. 20 cop.; also local steamers), on the coast, lies Alúpka, with a beautiful park and a château in the Gothic-Moorish style, built by Blore in 1837 for Prince Vorontsóv (p. 566).—About 9 M. to the N.E. of Yalta is Gursuff (carr. 5 roub. 60 cop.; also local steamers), in a charming situation, with good sea-baths. In the former château of the Duc de Richelieu Púshkin (p. 567) lived in 1820.

Beyond Yalta the direct Russian steamers continue their voyage along the coast, which farther on becomes increasingly level, to Feodossiya or Theodosia (p. xxxiv), the chief commercial port of the Crimea. Hence they steer to the S.E., leaving the Straits of Kertch (see below) to the left, to the beautifully situated seaport of Novorossysk. From the last port to Batum the steamers follow a similar course to that of the Lloyd Steamers described below.

See also Baedeker’s Russland or Russie (no English edition).

The LLOYD STEAMER now makes for the open sea, leaving the Straits of Kertch or Yeníkale (the ancient Cimmerian Bosporus), the entrance to the Sea of Azov (p. 561), far to port (left).

The S.W. slope of the Great Caucasus, the mighty frontier-wall between Europe and Asia, which has been almost uninhabited since the emigration of the Circassians in 1865, does not become visible until we are abreast of Gagry. When we are nearly opposite the mouth of the Ingúr we may descry in clear weather the two snowy domes of the volcanic Elbruz, or, as it is sometimes called, Elburz (18,468 ft.), the chief height of the Central Caucasus.

As the boat holds its course in the direction of Batum the Ajara Mts. (Lazistan, p. 571), belonging to the Little Caucasus (‘Armenian Highlands’) rise to the E., separated from the Great Caucasus by the ancient land of Colchis, the marshy plain of the Rion (the ancient Phasis). The Harbour of Batum, opening to the N., is inadequately sheltered from the W. and S.W. storms of winter by Cape Batum (lighthouse).

=Batum.=—ARRIVAL. All the steamers are moored alongside the quay; hand baggage 5 cop., heavy luggage 10 cop. each package.

HOTELS. Fránziya, Micháilovskaya; Impérial, Kutaïskaya, R. 1½–10, B. ½ roub.; Oriental, Nábereshnaya.—POST & TELEGRAPH OFFICE, Maríinsky Prospekt.—CAB from harbour or station to town 40, drive 25, hour 60 cop.

CONSULS. British, P. W. J. Stevens.—United States, A. Heingartner; vice-consul, E. Mattievich.

STEAMBOAT AGENTS. North German Lloyd, Schutz & Zimmermann; Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co., Arkadaksky; Austrian Lloyd, Marcetich; Messageries Maritimes, De Cortenze; Società Nazionale, Valazzi; N. Paquet & Co., Victor d’Arnaud.

Batum, a town of ca. 30,000 inhab., was the ancient Bathys, a place of little importance. In modern times, under the name of Bathumi, it was a Turkish frontier-fortress down to 1878. By the terms of the Berlin Congress of that year it passed to Russia (along with Kars), and it is now the strongly-fortified capital of the Russian province of its own name. The town, which has the most important harbour on the E. coast of the Black Sea, owes its present prosperity to the construction of the railway to Bakú, on the Caspian Sea. The staples of its trade are petroleum products (annual exports 1¼ million tons), manganese ore, liquorice, silk-cocoons, and wool. Along the beach runs the Boulevard, above which to the S. rises the Alexander Névsky Cathedral, built in 1903. About ¾ M. to the S. lies the Railway Station, and near by is a Roman Catholic Church. In the W. part of the town, on Lake Nurie, is the Alexander Park, with subtropical vegetation.

To the S.W. of the town, beyond Cape Batum, is the marshy and fever-stricken Delta of the Chorokh.

See also Baedeker’s Russland or Russie (no English edition).

85. From Batum to Constantinople.

726 M. STEAMSHIP LINES (agents at Batum, see p. 570; at Constantinople, see pp. 538, 539). =1.= North German Lloyd (Mediterranean & Levant Service; p. 563), from Batum every alternate Sat., in 4 days, viâ Trebizond, Samsun, and (if required) Ineboli (fare 80 or 56 marks).—=2.= Russian Steam Navigation & Trading Co. (Anatolian line), from Batum every other Thurs. night (from Constantinople Frid. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Ordu, Samsun, Sinope, and Ineboli, in 6½ days (fare 112 or 84 fr., food extra).—=3.= Austrian Lloyd, from Batum Frid. midnight (from Constantinople Sat. aft.) viâ Rizeh, Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and Ineboli, in 5½ days (fare 130; 2nd class, food extra, 48 fr.).—=4.= Messageries Maritimes, from Batum every second Wed. evening (from Constantinople Mon.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or 60 fr.).—=5.= N. Paquet & Co., from Batum every second Thurs. (from Constantinople Tues.) viâ Trebizond and Samsun, in 5 days (fare 100 or 60 fr.).—=6.= Società Nazionale (Line IX), from Batum every other Tues. even, (from Constantinople Thurs. aft.) viâ Trebizond, Kerasun, Samsun, and Ineboli, in 4½–5 days (fares 93 fr. 70, 62 fr. 50 c.).

Most of the Austrian, French, and Italian vessels are small old cargo-boats. The S. coast of the Black Sea is often visited by dangerous tempests, especially in winter.—For Turkish money, see p. 536.

Batum, see p. 570. Long after starting we continue to enjoy, in clear weather, a grand *View of the snow-clad central chain of the Great Caucasus (p. 570). The rugged mountains of the Lazistan, covered with snow in winter, become visible as far as the Kolat Dagh (about 7540 ft.) and are equally impressive. There are numerous small towns on the coast, but the only one called at by the steamers is Rizeh (the ancient Rhizūs), the first seaport beyond the Turkish frontier, which is almost hidden by a forest of fruit-trees.

We next pass the headland Erekli Burnu. As we near Trebizond we see the delta of the brook Piksit Su or Matshka (the ancient Pyxites), where, according to a vague tradition, the ten thousand Greeks under Xenophon encamped in 400 B.C. on their retreat from Persia (comp. pp. 574, 576).

* * * * *

=Trebizond.=—ARRIVAL. The landing, which takes place at the pier adjoining the custom-house (Pl. C, 1), is often attended by vexatious delays and also, if there is a strong wind blowing from the sea, by considerable difficulty.

HOTELS. Pens. Marengo (Pl. b; B, 1), on the E. hill, with fine views, well spoken of; Hôt. Suisse (Pl. a; B, 1), on the Hurriyet Meïdan; pens. in both 6–10 fr.

AUSTRIAN POST OFFICE (Pl. B, 1), near the Hurriyet Meïdan.—STEAMBOAT AGENTS, at the harbour.—BANKS. Banque Ottomane (p. 539); Banque d’Athènes.

CONSULATES. British (Pl. 15; B, 2): consul, H. Z. Longworth.—United States (Pl. 16; B, 2): consul, M. A. Jewett; vice-consul, I. Montesanto.

Trebizond, the Turkish Tirabson or Tarábosan, the seat of the governor-general of the viláyet of the same name and of a Greek and an Armenian archbishop, is, next to Samsun, the most important seaport on the N. coast of Asia Minor. It contains 35,000 inhab., including Greeks, Turks, Armenians, Persians, and Lazis, who speak a dialect resembling the languages of the S. Caucasus. Trapezūs, founded by Milesians from Sinope (7th cent. B.C.?), was named after the ‘table’-shaped (‘trápeza’) castle-hill (p. 573). Next to the mother-city it was the most important Greek colony in what afterwards became the kingdom of Pontus (p. 575), and was the seat of a governor in the Byzantine period. After the conquest of Constantinople by the Crusaders (p. 542) it became the capital of the small Greek empire of the Comneni, the last of whom, David Comnenus, was overthrown by Mohammed II. (p. 542) in 1461.

Trebizond is picturesquely situated on three low ridges at the N. base of Boz Tepeh (800 ft.), an outlier of the mountains extending thence to the S. to the Kolat Dagh (p. 571). The small harbour facilitates trade with the towns of the hinterland (e. g. Gümüshkhaneh), but it is only partly protected against sea-winds by the pier at Kalmek Point and a new breakwater at the headland of Eleusa. Notwithstanding the competition of Batum and the Trans-Caucasian railway Trebizond still carries on a considerable camel-caravan traffic with the Armenian highlands (Erzerum) and N. Persia (Tabriz).

The trade and industry of Trebizond are concentrated in the new town on the EAST HILL, above the harbour. Beyond Kalmek Point, on which are a battery, a lighthouse, and the Güzel Seraï (Pl. B, C, 1; now artillery-barracks), lies the Greek quarter, which encloses the Frank quarter, the seat of the European wholesale merchants. On a small promontory projecting from the N. shore rises the Greek Cathedral (Pl. 6; B, 1).

A little to the N. of the Hurriyet Meïdan, with its pleasure-grounds (Pl. 12; B, 1), runs one of the main streets leading to the W. to the BAZAARS (Pl. A, B, 1), or market quarter, which presents a lively scene, especially in the early morning. The most interesting stalls are those of the coppersmiths and of the native goldsmiths, whose works in gold and silver filigree are sold by weight.

KEY TO NUMBERS. Cemeteries (all C, 2): 1. Armenian-Catholic; 2. Greek; 3. Latin (see p. 475); 4. Protestant.—Mosques and Churches: 5. Aï Yaneh, B 1; 6. Greek Cathedral, B 1; 7. Great Mosque, A, B 1; 8. Kathunieh Mosque, A 1; 9. Orta Hissar Jamissi, A 1; 10. St. Basilius, B 1.—11. Yeni Juma Jamissi (St. Eugenius), A 2; 12. Grounds in the Hurriyet Meïdan, B 1.—13. Seraï, A 1.—14. Zendan Kapusí, A 1.—15. British Consulate, B 2.—16. United States Consulate, B 2.

Near the Aï Yaneh Church (Pl. 5; B, 1), to the S. of the Bazaars, we leave behind us the Usun Sokak and pass over a Viaduct (fine view) leading to the old CASTLE HILL, rising between the two ravines of the Kuzgun Deresí and the Iskeleboz Deresí. This is now occupied by the Turkish town proper and contains the ruins of the Byzantine Town Walls.

The chief artery of traffic leads through the Orta Hissar (Pl. A, 1, 2) or older and central part of the castle. It passes (left) the SERAÏ (Pl. 13; A, 1), the seat of the governor-general, and (right) the mosque of Orta Hissar Jamissi (Pl. 9; A, 1), once the church of Panagia Chrysokephalos, said to have been founded by Justinian.

At the Seraï a street diverging to the left leads to the Yokari Hissar (Pl. A, 2), or old upper castle, with the ruins of the imperial palace of the Comneni.—On the N. side of the Seraï various crooked lanes descend through the Ashagi Hissar (Pl. A, 1), or lower castle, the wall of which projects over the W. ravine, to the Fishing Harbour, the ancient harbour of Trapezūs, where remains of an almost semicircular quay are still visible under water The appearance of the fishing-boats is very quaint.

Through the Zendan Kapusí (Pl. 14; A, 1), or W. gate, we pass from the Seraï over a second viaduct to the WEST HILL. Here lie (on the left) the picturesque Turkish Cemetery and a suburb occupied by Turks and Greeks. Beyond the infantry-barracks, at the W. end of this suburb, rises the old Aya Sóphia Church, now a mosque.

Beautiful *VIEWS are obtained from the caves of Kirk Batal (Pl. B, C, 2), on the slope of Boz Tepeh (p. 572), above the Greek cemetery, and from the high-lying Greek nunnery of Panaya Theoskepastos (Turk. Kizlar Monastir; Pl. B, 2).

A pleasant DRIVE (or walk or ride) may be taken to the hill of Suk-Su in the S.W. with the summer-residences of the wealthier Greeks; or to the W. along the coast to (1 hr.) Platana (see below; motor-omn. 15 pias.; carr. there and back 40–50 pias.); or to the S., through the Pyxites Valley (p. 572), following a road traversed by many camel-caravans, and ascending steeply to (4 hrs.) Jevislik (carr. there and back 80 pias.; provisions should be taken).

* * * * *

Beyond Trebizond the STEAMER passes the little port of Platana, the ancient Hermonassa, with a good roadstead, protected against the W. and N.W. winds. The lofty Cape Yoros or Ieros (ancient Hieron; lighthouse), is visible for some 65 M. and is locally regarded as an infallible barometer.

=Tireboli=, the Tripolis of the Greeks, the next seaport, now a quiet little town with 5000 inhab., lies, like Kerasun, amid the magnificent rocky scenery of the spurs of the Sis Dagh (9220 ft.) and the Chal Dagh (6450 ft.), the summits of which are often covered with snow. Roads lead thence inland to the towns of Gümüshkhaneh and Karahissar.

Farther on, beyond Cape Zephyros (Turk. Zefireh Burnu) we reach the seaport of =Kerasun= or Kerasund (Turk. Kiresün, Greek Kireson), founded under the name of Kerasūs by the Milesians of Sinope and now a town of about 18,000 inhabitants. Like Trebizond it was one of the resting-places of the Ten Thousand under Xenophon (p. 572). Its situation on and behind a small peninsula (about 425 ft.; lighthouse), which used to be fortified, and backed by superb mountains is very picturesque. The poor anchorage of the steamers is on the W. side of the peninsula, near the pier and the custom-house. Owing to the want of good communication with the hinterland its maritime commerce is insignificant.

The steamers seldom call at Ordu, the ancient Kotyora, but steer across the Bay of Vona, the winter quarters of most of the sailing-vessels on this coast, which is admirably sheltered by Cape Vona (Boōna Promontorium; lighthouse).

Beyond Yasun Burnu (Jasonium Promontorium), the name of which commemorates the legendary voyage of Jason and the Argonauts (see p. 560), the coast recedes far to the S.

Without touching at the little seaport of Üniyeh or Unia (once Œnoē), the steamer passes the Chiva or Chalti Burnu (Heracleum Promontorium) and the large delta of the Yeshil Irmak (formerly Iris; beacon), which is navigable for small vessels in winter only, and steers direct towards the broad Bay of Samsun (landing or embarkation 7½ pias.), which is enclosed by low hills clad with plantations of tobacco and maize.

=Samsun.=—HOTEL. Mantika, near the Banque Ottomane, R. 2–5, pens. 15 fr. (bargain advisable).— Restaurant Yanni, near the tobacco-factory.

BANKS. Banque Ottomane, Banque d’Athènes, Banque de Salonique.—POST OFFICES. Turkish, French, and others, near the custom-house.

CONSULS. British, B. Ch. Papadopulos.—United States Consular Agent, William Peter.

Samsun, a town with about 30,000 inhab., was in antiquity an important Greek colony under the name of Amisus and is now the chief trading-place on the N. coast of Asia Minor. The chief exports are tobacco, flour, grain, and linseed. The manufactured goods it imports are forwarded mainly by trains of wagons or camels to such inland places as Mersifun, Amasia (once Amasea, the home of Strabo), Tokat (Comana), Sivas (Sebastia), and Kaisarieh (Cæsarea).

From the custom-house we turn to the left to the Market Place with its clock-tower. A well-paved street leads thence to the Banque Ottomane. Farther to the E., on the shore, are the Seraï (see p. 483) and several Consulates. The attractive Villa Quarter, occupied by Armenian and Greek merchants, conveys an impression of great prosperity.

Beyond Samsun the sandy coast juts out far towards the N.W. We pass the strip of land separating the sea from the large lagoon Ak Göl, the vicinity of which is infested by fever. Cape Bafra (beacon), a little farther on, is near the delta of the Kizil Irmak (Halys), which in B.C. 301–183 formed the boundary between the kingdom of Pontus and Paphlagonia. Though the largest river in Asia Minor the Kizil Irmak is not navigable.

Beyond the month of the Halys we come to a broad semicircular bay. On its N. shore, beyond the peninsula of Boz Tepeh Burnu (about 650 ft.; beacon), is a tongue of land on which stands =Sinōpe= (Turk. Sinob), the oldest of the colonies established on the coast of the Black Sea by the Greeks of Miletus (p. 491) and long the most powerful. Sinope was the home of Diogenes the Cynic (about B. C. 412–323). Here Xenophon’s Ten Thousand (p. 574) took ship on their way back to Byzantium (p. 541) at the conclusion of the toilsome Anabasis. It was also the residence of Mithridates VI. (B. C. 120–63; comp. p. 507), the last king of Pontus, who was famous both for his linguistic accomplishments and his military powers. He extended his sway over the whole of Asia Minor and the Crimea (p. 568), but was finally subdued by the Romans in three hardfought campaigns. Sinope, formerly the starting-point of an important caravan-route to Cappadocia and the lands of the Euphrates, now possesses, notwithstanding its excellent harbour, little more than the shadow of its former greatness. The poor little town, inhabited by about 8000 Greeks and Turks, entirely lacks roads to the interior. The barracks at the W. end of the headland serve as a quarantine lazaretto.

We next steam past Injeh Burun (Syrias Promontorium; beacon), the northmost point of Asia Minor, and skirt a hilly, well-wooded, but thinly peopled stretch of the shore.

=Ineboli= (Ionopolis), the chief seaport of this part of the coast, situated on the little river of that same name, is a poor little town with Turkish timber-built houses (p. 542) and a ruined castle. The roads, with their breakwater in ruins, are exposed to every wind and are often inaccessible in winter for days together. A road leads hence to (ca. 50 M.) Kastamuni, the present capital of the ancient Paphlagonia.

The small ports beyond Cape Kerembe (Carambis Promontorium; lights), where the coast again turns to the S.W., are not touched at by the large steamers.

Farther on, in the ancient Bithynia, appear the prominent Cape Baba (Acherusia Promontorium; beacon) and Cape Kirpe or Kerpe, with the small island of Kirpe (Thynias; beacon). Near Cape Baba lay the important Greek colony of Heraclea Pontica, now called Erekli or Bender Eregli.

Farther on is the Yum Burnu (p. 560), which is visible at a distance of 17 M. and marks the N. entrance to the Bosporus.

For the passage of the Bosporus and the arrival in Constantinople, see pp. 560–558 and p. 536.

INDEX

Abbas (Abbès), 387.

Abbâsîyeh, 459.

Abda, 109.

Abdalajis, Sierra de, 72.

Abd el-Kader, Anse d’, 262.

El-Abîd, 206.

Abruzzi, 428.

Abu Hammâd, 438.

Abukîr, Fort, 418.

Abu Nemrûs, 464.

Abusîr (near Alexandria), 418.

— (near Cairo), 464.

Abydos, 534.

Abyla, 54.

Acherit, Forêt d’, 266.

Acherusia Promontorium, 576.

Acho, Monte del, 103.

Acholla, 370.

Aci Castello, 159.

Acif Djerra, 258.

— el-Hammam, 261.

— Tléta, 254.

Acireale, 158.

Acre, 469.

—, Bay of, 468.

Acrite, 490.

Acroceraunian Mts., 496.

Adeje, 42.

Adélia, 211.

Adeni, 257.

Ad Fratres, 198.

Adjeroud, 125.

El-Adjiba, 251.

Adjim, 394.

Ad Piscinam, 283.

Adramyti, 533.

Adrianopolis, 413.

Ad Septem Fratres, 103.

Aduares, Barranco, 48.

Ægadean Islands, 153.

Ægaleon, Mt., 502.

Ægaleos, Mt., 494.

Ægean Sea, 490.

Ægimurus, 153.

Ægina, Bay of, 494.

Ægion, 501.

Ægospotamoi, 534.

Ægusa, 153.

Ælia Aurelia Augusta Mactaris, 360.

— Capitolina, 472.

Æolian Islands, 155.

Æthalia, 143.

Æthusa, 396.

Ætna, Mt., 159.

Afdalah, 107.

Affreville, 210.

El-Affroun, 213.

Agadie, 267.

Agâdir (Morocco), 110.

— (near Tlemcen), 196.

Agbia, 357.

Aggarsel Nepte, 387.

Aggersel, 365.

Agha, 217.

Aghir, 394.

Agua, Cabo del, 124.

— García, Forest of, 38.

— Mansa, 40.

Aguia, Penha d’, 27.

Ahaggar, Highlands of, 169.

Aidour, Pic d’, 182.

Aiguades, Anse des, 265.

Aiguille, Pointe de l’, 125, 126.

Aïn-Abessa, 269.

— -Abid, 306.

— -Affra, 312.

— -Amara, 306.

— el-Arba, 184.

— -Beïda, 273.

— -Bessem, 250.

— Bou-Ras, 354.

— -Dalia (Morocco), 102.

— -Daliah (near Bona), 303.

— -Douz, 197.

— -Draham, 327.

— -Fakroun, 272.

— -Fezza, 186.

— Fîjeh, 484.

— -Garci, 365.

— -Ghrasesia, 370.

— -el-Hadjadj, 203.

— -el-Hadjar (Algeria), 201.

— el-Hajar (Morocco), 110.

— -Hallouf, 365.

— el-Hamda, 269.

— el-Hammam, 273.

— -Hedja, 357.

— el-Ibel, 215.

— el-Jedida, 102.

— -Khamouda, 371.

— -Kial, 185.

— -Kissa, 315.

— -Mader, 392.

— -Meslout, 206.

— -Mesria, 362.

— -Mimoun, 273.

— -M’Lila, 274.

— -Mokra, 303.

— -Moularès, 372.

— -Naga, 284.

— -Oussara, 215.

— -Regada, 306.

— -Rharsalla, 357.

— -Rhelal, 351.

— -Roua, 269.

— -Roumi, 328.

— -St. Charles, 307.

— -Sefra, 202.

— -Sennour, 312.

— -Sfissifa, 203.

— -Smara, 272.

— -Sultan, 258.

— -Tahamimine, 312.

— -Talaouart, 269.

— -Talazit, 215.

— -Tassera, 271.

— -Taya, 248.

— -Tédelès, 207.

— -Tellout, 186.

— -Temouchent, 185.

— -Tounga, 354.

— -et-Turk, 184.

— -Tzadert, 206.

— -Yagout, 274.

— -Zannouch, 383.

— -Zatout, 278.

— -Zeft, 208.

Ai-Petri, 569.

Aït Akerma Mts., 260.

— -Atelli, 258.

— -Frah, 258.

— -Krelifa, 258.

— -Lahssen, 258.

— -Larbâa, 257.

— -Mellal, 259.

Ai-Todór, Cape, 569.

Aït-Ouabane, 259.

— -Saada, 259.

— -Touddeurt, 258.

— Yahia, 258.

Aivaly, 533.

Aiya, Cape, 569.

Ajaccio, Bay of, 133.

Ajara Mts., 570.

Akbou, 251.

Akfadou, Forêt d’, 261.

Ak Göl, 575.

El-Akhouat, 360.

Akinti Burnu, 558.

Akir, 470.

Akka (Akko), 469.

Akkerman, 564.

Akmês, Pointe, 131.

Akouda, 366.

Akrotiri, 489.

Aktē (headland), 494.

Alassio, 113.

Alban Mts., 135.

Albania, 496.

Albâtre, Montagne d’, 278.

Albenga, 113.

Alboasa, Cape, 123.

Alborán, 117.

Albufeira, 5.

Albulae, 185.

Alcántara, the, 158.

Alcázar, Punta, 123.

Aleih, 483.

Alexandreia Troas, 533.

Alexandria, 431, xxxiii.

Algarve, 5.

Algeciras, 56.

—, Bay of, 6.

Algeria, 168.

=Algiers=, 217. Académie, 228. Agha-Inférieur, 232. — -Supérieur, 228. Archevêché, 224. Arrière-Port, 223. Avenue Bab el-Oued, 224. — Malakoff, 236. Belcourt, 232. El-Biar, 234. Birmandreis, 231. Birtraria, 234. Bois de Boulogne, 230. Boulevard Bru, 231. — Carnot, 222. — de France, 222. — de la République, 222. — de la Victoire, 227. — Laferrière, 226. — Valée, 228. Bouzaréah, 235. —, Mont, 235. Cabs, 218. Campagne Bellevue, 231. Cemeteries, 227, 231, 232, 236. Champ de Manœuvres, 232. Château d’Hydra, 231. — -Neuf, 234. Chemin de Maclay, 231. — du Télemly, 230. Chéraga, 234. Churches: Cathedral, 225. English, 230, 220. Notre-Dame d’Afrique, 236. — des Victoires, 224. St. Augustin, 226. Scottish, 228, 220. Cimetière d’el-Kettar, 227. — de Mustapha, 231. — Musulman de Belcourt, 232. Cité Bugeaud, 234. Colonne Voirol, 230. Conseil Général, 224. Consuls, 219. Dâr Soof, 225. Dépêche Algérienne, 226. Deux-Moulins, 236. English Cemetery, 231. — Church, 230, 220. Escaliers de la Pêcherie, 223. — du Bastion Central, 223. Fish Market, 223. Fontaine du Hamma, 232. Forêt de Baïnem, 235. Fort de la Bouzaréah, 235. — des Anglais, 236. — des Arcades, 231. — Duperré, 236. — l’Empereur, 234. Frais-Vallon, 234. Gouvernement, Bureaux du, 225. Grotte de Cervantes, 232. Hamma, Le, 232. Harbour, 222. Hôpital Militaire du Dey, 235. Hotels, 217. Hussein-Dey, 233. Jardin d’Essai, 232. — du Hamma, 232. — Marengo, 224. Jenina, 224. Jetée du Nord, 222. Jewish Cemetery, 236. Kasba, 227. Kouba, 233. Kursaal Theatre, 224. Lycée National, 224. Marché de Chartres, 226. — de la Lyre, 226. Medersa, 228. Monuments: Duke of Orleans, 223. Mac Mahon, 230. Marshal Bugeaud, 226. Mosques: Great, 224. Ketshâwa, 225. Mozabites, 226. de la Pêcherie, 223. Sidi Abderrahmân, 228. — Mohammed ech-Chériff, 227. Musée Municipal des Beaux-Arts, 226. Museum, 229. Mustapha-Inférieur, 232. — -Supérieur, 228. National Library, 225. Observatoire, 235. Orphelinat St. Vincent-de-Paul, 230. Oued bel-Elzar, 234. — Knis, 231. — M’Kacel, 234. Palais Consulaire, 223. — de Justice, 226. — de l’Amirauté, 223. — d’Eté du Gouverneur, 230. — d’Hiver du Gouverneur, 225. Phare, 223. Place de la République, 222. — du Gouvernement, 223. — Malakoff, 224. Plaine de Mustapha, 228. Plateau Saulière, 228. Porte du Sahel, 233. Post Office, 219, 226. Préfecture, 222. Presqu’île de l’Amirauté, 223. Quai de la Marine, 222. Quartier Bab el-Oued, 234. — de l’Esplanade, 236. — des Tagarins, 228. — d’Isly, 230. Railway Stations, 217. Rampe de l’Amirauté, 223. Rampes Chasseloup-Laubat, 223. — Magenta, 223. Ratto, Dwelling House of M., 225. Ravin de la Femme Sauvage, 231. — des Sept-Sources, 230. Rue Bab el-Oued, 224. — de Constantine, 226. — de la Kasba, 227. — de la Porte-Neuve, 227. — de Lyon, 232. — d’Isly, 226. — Kléber, 227. — Marengo, 228. — Michelet, 228. — Randon, 227. — Sadi-Carnot, 232. Ruisseau, Le, 231. St. Eugène, 236. — Raphaël, 234. Scottish Church, 228, 220. Square Bresson, 222. Staouéli-Trappe, 234. Station Zoologique, 223. Steamboat Agents, 219. Synagogue, 227. Théâtre Municipal, 222. Tramways, 218. Turkish Fountain, 223. University, 228. Vallée des Consuls, 236. Vieux-Kouba, 231. Villa des Grottes, 231. — Sesini, 231. Village Arabe de la Bouzaréah, 235.

Algiers, Bay of, 118.

—, Sahel of, 221, 169.

Alhama, 72.

—, Sierra de, 89.

Alhucemas, Islas de, 123.

Ali, 158.

El-Alia, 370.

Alicante, 112.

Alicuri, 146.

Allaghan, 251.

Allélik, 309.

Alma, 249.

Almeida, Barranco de, 36.

Almería, 112.

Almijara, Sierra de, 112.

Almina, 103.

—, Punta de la, 123.

Almodóvar, 68.

Alora, 88.

Altava, 186.

Alta Vista, 41.

Althiburus, 362.

Alúpka, 570.

Alupo, Cape, 490.

Alvo, Monte, 144.

Amalfi, 155.

Amaro, Monte, 428.

Ameradsa, 278.

Ameur-el-Aïn, 243.

Amisus, 575.

Ammaedara, 362.

Amorgós, 417.

Amoucha, 269.

Amrûs, 411.

Anafe, 107.

Anaga Mts., 33.

—, Punta de, 33.

Anaphe, 417.

Anăpo, 162.

Anastasia Islands, 562.

Anatolia, 490.

Anatoli Fanar, 560.

— Hissar, 558.

— Kavak, 560.

Ancona, 427.

Andalouses, Plaine des, 184.

Andalusia, 49.

Andros, 529.

Anfa, 107.

Angad, Plaine des, 197.

Angustias, Barranco de las, 48.

Anjera Mts., 103.

Announa, 307.

Antequera, 72.

—, Punta, 33.

Anti-Atlas, 93.

Antibes, Cap d’, 112.

Anticaria, 72.

Antigoni, 535.

Anti-Lebanon, 483, xxxiv.

Antipaxos, 500.

Antipyrgos, 415.

Aokas, Cape, 266.

Aomar, 250.

El-Aouaria, 153.

Apano-Garuna, 499.

Apennines, 113, 427.

Apes’ Hill, 103.

Aphrodisium, 365.

Apisa Majus, 359.

Apollonia (Palestine), 468.

— (Tripolitania), 414.

Apsorus Insula, 429.

Apuan Alps, 134.

Aquæ Calidæ, 212.

— Carpitanae, 364.

— Flavianae, 273.

— Herculis, 278.

— Sirenses, 200.

— Tacapitanae, 388.

— Thibilitanae, 307.

Aquila, Cape, 133.

Aquilaria, 153.

Arabian Desert, 438.

— Gulf, 415.

Arafo, 40.

—, the, 36.

El-Araïsh, 104.

Aram, 391.

Arba, L’, 247.

Arbal, 184.

Arbatax, 144.

Archi, 159.

Archichina, 389.

Archidona, 72.

Areeiro, Pico, 27.

Areiya, 483.

Arena, Barranco de la, 40.

Argennon, 492.

Argentario, Monte, 135.

Argolis, 494.

El-Ariana, 338.

Arib, Les, 210.

Aribs, Plaine des, 250.

Aris, 278.

Arkadia, 568.

Arki, 490.

Arktonnesos, 535.

Armascla, the, 327.

Armi, Capo dell’, 159.

Arnautkiöi, 558.

Arona, 42.

El-Aroussa, 360.

Arrebentão, Pico do, 27.

El-Arrouch, 303.

Arsachena, Bay of, 133.

Arsinoë, 413.

Arslan Burun, 530.

Arsûf, 468.

Artaki, Bay of, 535.

Artenara, 46.

Arucas, 47.

Arzew, 199.

Arzila, 104.

Asfi, 109.

Asia Minor, 490.

Askania, 492.

Aspis, 405.

Aspra Vuná, 415.

Aspro, Kavo, 500.

Aspromonte, 155.

Assos, 533.

Asthoret, 304.

Astropalia or

Astypalaea, 492.

Atabyrion, 490.

Atalaya, 46.

Atalayasa, 112.

Atarfe, 73.

El-Ateuf, 216.

=Athens=, 502. Academy of Science, 525. Acropolis, 512. — Museum, 518. Akademeia, 528. Areopagus, 512. Asklepieion, 511. Ave. of the Apostle Paul, 524. Belvedere, 518. Boulevard de l’Université, 525. — Syngrós, 495. Burial Ground outside the Dipylon, 523. Byron, Statue of, 508. Cafés, 503. Churches: Constantine, 525. English, 504, 508. Kapnikaræa, 520. Little Metropolis, 520. Metropolitan, 520. Panagia Gorgópiko, 520. Roman Catholic, 525. City Wall, 523. Consulates, 504. Dionysion en Limnais, 512. Dionysios Areopagites Street, 510. Dionysos, Theatre of, 510. Dipylon, 522. Electric Railway, 503. Erechtheion, 517. Erechtheus, Palace of, 518. Georgios Chapel, 528. Hadrian’s Arch, 508. — Library, 520. Hagia Marina Hill, 524. — Triáda or Trias, 522. Hagios Demetrios Lumpardiaris, 524. Hekatompedon, 518. History, 505. Horológion of Andronikos, 520. Hotels, 502. Ilissos, the, 509. Kerameikos, 522. Kimonian Wall, 518. Kolokythu, 528. Kolonos Agoraeos, 521. — Hill, 528. Library, 525. Lykabettos, 528. Lysikrates, Monument of, 510. Market, 522. — Gate, 521. Museion, 524. Museum, Historical and Ethnological, 526. —, National Archæological, 526. —, Numismatic, 525. Mycenæan Antiquities, 526. National Theatre, 525. Nike, Temple of, 513. Nymphs, Hill of the, 524. Observatory, 524. Odeion of Herodes Atticus, 511. Olympieion, 509. Palace, Royal, 508. Parliament House, 525. Parthenon, 515. Pelasgic Wall, 517. Phaleron, New, 528. —, Old, 528. Philopappos, Monument of, 524. Place de la Concorde, 525. — de la Constitution, 508. Pnyx Hill, 524. Polytechnic Institute, 526. Post Office, 504. Propylæa, 513. Restaurants, 503. Rue d’Eole, 520. — de Patisia, 525. — d’Hermès, 520. — du Stade, 525. Schliemann’s House, 525. Stables, Royal, 525. Stadion, 509. Stoa of Attalos, 521. — Basileios, 522. — of Eumenes II., 511. — of Giants, 521. — of Hadrian, 520. Syntagma Square, 508. Telegraph Office, 504. Temple of Roma and of Augustus, 518. Theatres, 504. Theseion, 521. Tower of the Winds, 520. Tramways, 503. University, 525. Water Conduit, 528. Zappion, 508.

Atlas, 93.

— of Blida, 169.

Atlît, 468.

Attafs, Plaine des, 209.

Attáiros, Mt., 490.

Attard, 403.

Augusta, 159.

Aumale, 250.

Aunobaris, 357.

Aurès Mts., 278.

Aux Deux-Fontaines, 268.

Auzia, 250.

Axarquía, 88.

Axin, Cape, 131.

Ayu Dagh, 569.

Azazga, 261.

Azeffoun, 130.

Azerou ou Gougane, 258.

— es-Guessig, 258.

— -Kellat, 258.

— Madène, 259.

— -Ncennad, 258.

— Thaltatt, 258.

— Tidjer, 259.

— n-Tirourda, 259, 260.

— n-Tohor, 260.

Azib-ben-Ali-Chérif, 251.

Azimmûr, 108.

Azov, Sea of, 561, xxxiv.

Azulejos, Los (Peak of Teneriffe), 42.

Baba, Cape, 576.

— Burnu, 533.

Bâb el-Kebîr, 270.

— es-Serîr, 270.

Babors, Chaîne des, 268.

Babouch, 327.

Bab-Taza, Col de, 198.

Babylon (Cairo), 460, 443.

Badajoz, Barranco de, 36.

Bafra, Cape, 575.

Bagai, 273.

Bagdbâd, Plaine de, 205.

Baghaï, 273.

Bagnara, 155.

Bahira, Lake, 153.

Baidar Gate, 569.

Baïnem, Forêt de, 235.

Bains de la Reine, 183.

— Romains, 237.

Baither, 470.

Bajamar, 37.

Balaclava, 569.

Balah, Lake, 438.

Balearic Islands, 112.

— Sea, 126.

Balerm, 148.

Balkans, Little, 562.

Bandas del Sur, 42.

Barbate, Bay of, 57.

Barca, 414, xxxiii.

Barcola, 427.

Bari, 428.

Barrage, 200.

—, Le, 209.

Barral, 308.

El-Bathan, Bridge of, 329.

Bathys, 571.

Batna, 275.

Batum (Bathumi), 570.

—, Cape, 570.

Beaulieu, 112.

Bebek, 558.

Bec de l’Aigle, 133.

Bedrashein, 464.

El-Beïda, 201.

Beïkos, 559.

Beirut, 481.

Béja, 328.

Bekalta, 369.

Belad el-Jerid, 386.

Belbina, 494.

Belcourt, 127.

Beleliéta, Massif du, 308.

Bel-Hacel, 207.

Bellavista, Capo di, 144.

Belle-Fontaine, 250.

Bellezma Mts., 275.

Belvedere, 166.

Ben-Bachir, 327.

— -Chicao, 215.

Bender Eregli, 576.

Benghazi, 412.

Bengut, Cape, 254.

Benha, 438.

Benhisa Point, 411.

Beni Abbès Mts., 251.

— Addi, Hills of the, 308.

— Aïcha, Col des, 250.

— -Amran, 250.

— Amrous Hills, 266.

— -Barca, 392.

— Bou Aïssi Mts., 266.

— Chougrane Mts., 200.

— -Ferah, 278.

— Hassain Mts., 266.

— -Hindel, 209.

— -Isguen, 216.

— -Ismaïl, 268.

— -Kalfoun, Massif des, 250.

— -Mansour, 251.

— — Hills, 269.

— Mekla Hills, 253.

— -Mered, 216.

— Mimoun Djoua Mts., 266.

— -Mora, 283.

— -Ounif de Figuig, 203.

— -Saf, 185.

— -Salah Hills, 308.

— —, Pic des, 214.

— Slimane Mts., 266.

— Smaïl Mts., 254.

Benizze, 499.

Bent-Zert, 353.

Benzus, Bay of, 123.

Bérard, 238.

El-Berd, 285.

Berenice, 413.

Bergama, 533.

Berlengas Islands, 4.

Bermeja, Sierra, 111.

Berrian, 216.

Berrouagbia, 215.

Berta, Cape, 113.

Berytus, 482.

Besbikos, 535.

Bescĕra, 280.

Beshiktash, 558.

Besika Bay, 533.

Bethar, 470.

Bethlehem, 480.

Betoya, 123.

Bettioua, 199.

Beylerbey, 558.

Beyrout, 482.

Bianco, Capo, 492.

El-Biar, 234.

Biar el-Alia, 370.

Biban, Chaîne des, 270.

Biga Sher Chai, 535.

Bijouville, 352.

El-Bikâ, 483.

Bir el-Asli, 286.

— Bou-Rekba, 364.

Birchircara, 403.

El-Bireh, 468.

Bir-Kassa, 358.

Birmandreis, 231.

Bir-Rabalou, 248.

— Saâd, 385.

— Saâdou, 392.

— Sethil, 284.

Birtouta-Chebli, 216.

Birtraria, 234.

Biscay, Bay of, 2.

Biskra, 279.

Bithynia, 535, 576.

Bittir, 470.

Bizerta, 352.

— Hills, 132.

Bizerte, Cap de, 129.

—, Lac de, 352.

Bizot, 303.

Black Sea, 561, xxxiv.

Blad-Guitoun, 253.

— el-Hawa, 297.

Blanc, Cap (Algeria), 243.

—, — (Tunisia), 129.

Blanco, Cabo, 108.

Blanquilla, Torre, 101.

Bled el-Adhar, 387.

Bleda Islets, 112.

Bled Bakora, 244.

— el-Hamra, 383.

— Maknassi, 383.

— Zouarine, 361.

Blida, 213.

Bobadilla, 57.

Bocca Grande, the (Corsica), 133.

— —, the (near Naples), 118.

— Piccola, 154.

Bodes, Pico dos, 26.

Boeo, Capo, 153.

Boghari, 215.

Boghaz, Straits of, 418.

— Hissar, 534.

Boghni, 254.

Bolshoi Fontan, 564.

Bomba, Gulf of, 415.

Bon, Cape, 153.

Bona (Bône), 309, 131.

—, Gulf of, 128.

Bône, Plaine de, 308.

Bonifacio, 133.

Boōna Promontorium, 575.

Bordighera, 113.

Bordj el-Amri, 354.

— -Bou-Arréridj, 270.

— Cédria, 364.

— Chegga, 284.

— Djedid, 327.

— Gouïfla, 386.

— -Gourbel, 358.

— -Ménaïel, 253.

— Messaoudi, 357.

— Mguitla, 285.

— Mouiat Ferdjana, 285.

— — el-Kaïd, 285.

— -R’dir, 270.

— Saâda, 284.

— Sabath, 307.

— Tamalous, 303.

— Toum, 329.

Borgo, 400.

Bosporus, 557, xxxiv.

Bostrenus, the, 469.

Botte, La, 133.

Bouak, Cape, 264.

Bou-Arada, 360.

— -Arkoub, 364.

Boucaïd, 209.

Bou-Chebka, 318.

— -Chemma, 389.

Boudaroua, 308.

Boufarik, 216.

Bou-Ficha, 365.

Bougaroun (or Bougaroni), Cape, 131.

Bougdoura, the, 253.

Boughzoul, 215.

Bougie, 262.

—, Anse de, 262.

—, Gulf of, 130, 252.

Bou-Grara, Mer de, 392.

Bougrina, 303.

Bou-Guetoub, 201.

— -Guezoul, 215.

— Hamdan, 307.

— —, the, 328.

— -Hamoud, 244.

— Hamra, Massif du, 309.

— -Hanifia, 200.

— -Haroun, 238.

— -Henni, 206.

Bouïra, 250.

Bou-Kader, 208.

— -Khalfa, 254.

— -Ktoub, 201.

Boulima, Cape, 130.

Boulogne, 2.

Bou-Medfa, 212.

— -Nouara, 306.

Bourdjine, 379.

Bou er-Rébia, 358.

Bourkika, 243.

Bou-Saâda, 270.

— -Sfer, 184.

— -Tlélis, 185.

Bouzaréah, 235.

—, Mont, 235.

Bove, Valle del, 159.

Boz Dagh, 530.

— Tepeh, 572.

— — Burnu, 576.

Branis, 278.

Breña Baja, 48.

Brenes, 68.

Brindisi, 429.

Brioni, Isole, 429.

Brussa, 535.

Bubana Valley, the, 101.

Bubastis, 439.

Bucca Vallis, 483.

Bucina, 144.

Budelli, Isola dei, 133.

Budrum, 490.

Buena Vista, 48.

Bufadero, Valle del, 36.

Bugeaud, 311.

Bugio, 17.

El-Bukeia, 470.

Bûlâk ed-Dakrûr, 464.

Bulgheria, Monte, 155.

Bulgurlu, Great, 557.

Bulgurlukiöi, 557.

Bulla Regia, 326.

Bullones, Sierra, 103.

Bumeliâna, 411.

Bu Regreg, 105.

Burgas, 562.

Búrmola, 400.

Burnabad, Bay of, 533.

Busa, Cape, 415.

Busi, 429.

Büyük Chamlija, 557.

Büyükdereh, 559.

Büyük Liman, 560.

Byzantium, 541.

Cacem, 15.

Cadiz, 58.

Cæsarea, 244.

— Palaestina, 468.

Cagliari, 144.

Cagna, Montagne de, 133.

=Cairo=, 439. Amru Mosque, 460. Aquarium, 457. Atabet el-Khadra, 446. Bâb el-Attaba, 454. — el-Azab, 453. — el-Futûh, 449. — el-Gedîd, 453. — el-Mitwelli, 450. — en-Nasr, 449. — el-Wastâni, 453. Babylon, 460. Bâb Zuweileh, 450. Barkûkîyeh, 448. Beit Gamâl ed-Dîn, 449. Bektashi, Convent of the, 454. Bookbinder’s House, 449. Bûlâk, 454. Cabs, 441. Cafés, 440. Caliphs, Tombs of the, 458. Citadel, 453. Consulates, 441. Dâr Beshtâk Palace, 448. Defterkhaneh, 453. Electric Railway, 441. Ezbekîyeh Garden, 445. Fatimite City, 446. Gâmia el-Ahmar, 448. — Amr ibn el-Âsî, 460. — el-Ashraf, 446. — el-Azhar, 447. — el-Hâkim, 449. — Sultân Hasan, 452. — Ibn Tulûn, 451. — Emir Kijmâs, 450. — el-Merdani, 450. — Mohammed Ali, 454. — — Bey Abû Dahab, 447. — el-Muaiyad, 450. — en-Nâsir, 453. — Rifaîyeh, 452. — Sâlih Telâyeh, 450. — es-Seiyideh Zeinab, 451. Gebel Giyûshi, 454. Gezîreh or Gezîret Bûlâk, 457. Gîza Garden, 457. Gîzeh, 461. Gouvernorat, 450. Heliopolis Oasis, 459. — -On, 459. History, 443. — of Art, 444. Hotels, 439. Ibrâhîm Pasha, Statue of, 446. Ismaîlîyeh, 454. Kalat el-Kabsh, 451. Karâfet Bâb el-Wezîr, 454. Kasr el-Aïni, 455. — ed-Dubara, 455. Khân el-Khalîli, 446. Koubbeh, Palais de, 459. Library, Khedivial, 451. Limûn Bridge, 445. Mameluke Tombs, 458. Market Quarter, 146. Mausoleum of El-Ghûri, 449. Medreseh el-Ghûri, 449. — Kâït Bey, 451. — Mohammed en-Nâsir, 448. — Serghatmash, 452. Memphis, 464. Metropolitan Railway, 441. Mîdân Abdîn, 446. — Ismaîlîyeh, 455. Ministries, 455. Mokattam Hills, 454. Mosques, see Gâmia. Muristân Kalâûn, 448. Museum, Arab, 450. —, Egyptian, 455. —, Geological, 455. Muski or Mouski, 446. New Heliopolis, 459. Nile Bridge, the Great, 457. Okella of El-Ghûri, 449. — of Kâït Bey, 448. Old Cairo, 460. Palace, Khedivial, 446. Place Bâb el-Khalk, 450. — de l’Opéra, 446. — Rumeileh, 452. Polytechnic School, 457. Post Office, 441. Railway Stations, 439. Restaurants, 440. Rôda, 461. Sakkâra, 465. Sebîl Abd er-Rahmân, 448. — of the Mother of Abbâs I., 452. Shâria el-Akkâdîn, 449. — Bûlâk, 454. — Clot Bey, 445. — el-Ghûrîyeh, 449. — el-Gohergîyeh, 448. — Kasr en-Nîl, 454. — Khalîg el-Masri, 451. — el-Marâsîn, 451. — el-Margush el-Barrâni, 448. — Mohammed Ali, 450. — en-Nahhâsîn, 448. Shoemakers’ Market, 450. Sudan Agency, 455. Sukkarîyeh, 449. Sûks, 446. 447. Telegraph Office, 441. Tewfîkîyeh, 454. Theatres, 442. Tramways, 440. Tribunaux Mixtes, 446. University, 455. Zoological Garden, 457.

Cala, La, 147.

Calabria, 155, xxxi.

Calaburras, Punta de, 111.

Cala Grande, 123.

Calama, 308.

Calatha, 132.

Calceus Herculis, 276.

Caldera, the, 48.

— de Bandama, 46.

Caleta, 56.

Calheta, 26.

Calle, La, 131.

Camacha, 27.

Camara de Lobos, 25.

Camarat, Cape, 112.

Campagna, Roman, 135.

Campagne Bellevue (near Algiers), 231.

Campanella, Punta di, 154.

Campanillas, 88.

Camp-des-Chênes, 215.

— -du-Maréchal, 253.

Campidano, 146.

Campo (fort), 203.

Campolato, Capo, 162.

Campolide, 15.

Cana, 469.

Cañadas, the, 41.

Canal d’Oro, 529.

Canales, Punta, 5.

Canario, Pico, 25.

Canary Islands, 28.

Canastel, Pointe, 184.

Candelaria, 36.

Candia, 415.

— (town), 416.

Canea, 415.

Cane Mons, 533.

Cani, I, 129.

Caniçal, 21.

Cannes, 112.

Canrobert, 273.

Cántales, Punta de los, 89.

Cantin, Cape, 108.

Capanne, Monte, 143.

Capo, Lo (Capri), 154.

Cappuccini, Monte dei, 428.

Capraia (Capraria), 143.

Caprera, 133.

Capri, 146, 154.

Capsa, 384.

Caput Vada, 370.

Carales, 144.

Carambis Promontorium, 576.

Caramu, 124.

Caramuja, Serra de, 27.

Caravansérail de l’Oued-Massin, 210.

Carbon, Cape, 264.

Carbonara, Capo, 144.

Caria, 490.

Carlentini, Pantano di, 159.

Carmel, Mt., 468.

Carnero, Punta, 6.

Carpis, 364.

Cartagena, 125.

—, Cape, 351.

Cártama, 88.

Carteia, 54.

Cartenna, 209.

Carthage, 343.

—, Cape, 351.

Cartima, 88.

Cartina, Monti, 159.

Carvoeiro, Cabo, 4.

Carycium Promontorium, 491.

Casablanca, 107.

Casae, 275.

Casal Krendi, 403.

— Paula, 402.

Cascaes, Bay of, 4.

Cassarin, Anse du, 309.

Cassis, 132.

Casteddu, 144.

Castellammare, Fort (Palermo), 147.

—, Gulf of, 152.

— del Golfo, 153.

Castellum du Nador, 242.

— Peregrinorum, 468.

— Tingitanum, 209.

Castiglione, 238.

—, Bay of, 237.

—, Promontory of, 135.

Catalfano, Monte, 147.

Catalonia, 119.

Catania, 160.

—, Piana di, 159.

Catona, 159.

Caucasus Mts., 570.

Cavallo, 267.

—, Cape, 130. 267.

—, Salto del, 183.

Cavoli, Isola dei, 118.

Caxine, Cape, 237.

Cayster, the, 491.

Cazza, 429.

Cedadda, 388.

Cedouikeche, 394.

Cèdres, Pie des, 275.

Cedro, Pico del, 48.

Cefalonia, 500.

Celadussae Insulæ, 429.

Cembalo, 569.

Cephalus (headland), 412.

Cerceteus Mons, 491.

Cercina, 405.

Cercinitis, 405.

Cerigo, 494.

Cerro del Sol, 74.

Ceuta, 103.

Cevada, Cova da, 26.

Chabet el-Akra, 268.

— es-Sétif, 270.

Chabia, 387.

Chacals, Col des, 311.

Chafarinas Islands, 124.

Chahorra, 42.

Chaïba, Forêt de, 213.

Chalcedon, 536.

Chal Dagh, 574.

Chalet de Taourirt-Ighil, 261.

Chalki, 535.

Chalti Burnu, 575.

Chambœuf, Col, 306.

Chambré, Fort, 404.

Chanak Kalesi, 534.

Chandarli, Bay of, 533.

Chanía, 415.

Channel Islands, 2.

Chão, 17.

Chaouach, 328.

Chaouat, 351.

Chapeau de Gendarme, 315.

Charki, 492.

Charon, 208.

Charrier, 201.

Chasseloup-Laubat, 271.

Châteaudun-du-Rhumel, 272.

Château-Neuf (near Algiers), 234.

Chatyr Dagh, 568.

Chaves, Montaña de, 38.

Chebba, 370.

Chebka, 216.

Chélif, the, 208.

Chellata, Col de, 260.

Chelonatas (headland), 502.

Chemtou, 326.

Chenacha Mts., 258.

Chênes, Les, 327.

Chengelkiöi, 558.

Chenini (near Douirat), 392.

— (near Gabes), 390.

Chenoua, Baie du, 242.

—, Cape, 242.

—, Plage, 242.

Chéraga, 234.

Cherchell, 244.

— Aqueduct, 243.

Chersonese, Cape, 569.

Chersonesos, 415.

Chersonesus, Thracian, 534.

— Cnidia, 490.

— Promontorium, 118.

— Rhodia, 490.

— Taurica, 568.

Cheshmeh, 493.

Chetma, 284.

Chiavari, 134.

Chibukli, 559.

Chidibbia, 354.

Chiens, Col des, 279.

Chiffa, 213.

—, Gorges de la, 215.

Chiffalo, 238.

Chikly, Island of, 129.

Chiliga Burnu, 562.

Chioggia, 427.

Chios, 492.

Chiva, 575.

Choba, 267.

Chornoye More, 561.

Chorro, 88.

Chott ech-Chergui, 169.

— Djerid, 387.

— el-Fedjedj, 389.

— Gharbi, 169.

— el-Hodna, 270, 169.

— Melrir, 284.

— Merouan, 284.

— Mzouri, 274.

— Rharsa, 386.

Choucht el-Ihoudi, 286.

Christiana, 492.

Chrysokeras, 555.

Chrysorrhoas, the, 484.

Chullu, 131.

Chylimath, the, 208.

Ciani, 162.

Ciclopi, Scogli de’, 159.

Cidrão, Pico, 25.

Cillium, 371.

Cilma, 371.

Cimmerian Bosporus, 570.

Cinque Terre, 134.

Cinto, Monte, 143.

Cintra, 15.

Ciotat, La, 132.

Circeo, Monte, 135.

Ciris, Cape, 5.

Cirta, 298.

Cissi, 255.

Cittanuova, 429.

Città Vecchia, 403.

Ciudadela, 127.

Civitavecchia, 135.

Clairefontaine, 314.

Clupea, 405.

Cnidos, 490.

Cochinos, Los, 58.

Coelesyria, 483.

Colchis, 570.

Col-des-Oliviers, 303.

Coldirodi, 113.

Collares, Caminho de, 16.

Collo, 131.

—, Sahel of, 169.

Colonia Cillitana, 371.

— Claudia Cæsarea, 244.

Coloniæ Cirtenses, 298.

Colonia Julia Augusta Felix Berytus, 482.

— Julia Carthago, 345.

— Marciana Trajana Thamugadi, 289.

— Minervia Chullu, 131.

— Veneria Rusicade, 304.

— Zilis Constantia, 104.

Colonna, Cape, 529.

Colophon, 491.

Columbretes Islands, 119.

Comino, 397.

—, Capo, 144.

Conca d’Oro, 148.

Concepción, La, 92.

Condé-Smendou, 303.

Conejera, 112.

Conero, Monte, 428.

Confital Bay, 43.

Conil, 58.

Constantiana, 563.

Constantine, 297.

—, Cape, 568.

=Constantinople= 536. Aivan Seraï, 555. — — Kapu, 554. Ak Seraï, 553. Antiquities, Collection of, 546. Aqueduct of Valens, 552. Arcadius, Column of, 553. Artillery Barracks, 544. At Meïdan, 549. Augusteion, 549. Avret Bazar, 553. Aya Sophia Meïdan, 549. Bab i Humayún, 548. Baglar Bashi, 557. Balat, 555. Bazaar, Great, 551. Beshiktash, 544. Bezestán, 551. Bit Bazar Jaddesi, 551. Blachernæ Quarter, Wall of the, 554. Brachionon, 554. Bridges, 545, 552. British Embassy, 544. Bulgurlu, Great, 557. Bulgurlukiöi, 557. Burnt Column, 550. Büyük Chamlija, 557. Cabs, 538. Cafés, 537. Cemeteries: British, 557. Greek, 554. Moslem, 553, 557. Chamlija Spring, 557. Chemberli Tash, 550. Chinili Kiosque, 547. Colossus, 550. Consulates, 539. Defterdar Iskelesi, 555. Ecuries Impériales, 544. Edirneh Kapu, 553. Egri Kapu, 554. Emperor Claudius II., Column of, 546. English Churches, 539. Exchange, 543. Eyub, 555. Fountains, 543, 544, 548, 549. Galata, 542. — Quay, 543. — Seraï, 544. — Tower, 543. Golden Horn, 555. Grande Rue de Galata, 545. — — de Péra, 543. Harbours, 555. Harem-Iskelesi, 556. Haskiöi, 555. History, 541. Hotels, 537. Irene, Church of, 548. Janissaries, Barracks of the, 553. Janissaries’ Museum, 550. — Plane Tree, 548. Jubali Kapu, 555. Kalijeh Oglu, 555. Kalpakjilar Bashi Jaddesi, 551. Kasím Pasha, Bay of, 555. Kerkoporta, 554. Kiathaneh, 556. Land-Wall, 553. Leander’s Tower, 556. Local Steamers, 538. Lykos Valley, 553. Marcian’s Column, 553. Mermer Kuleh, 554. Military Hospital (Haidar Pasha), 557. — Museum, 548. Ministry of Justice, 548. — of Marine, 555. Mint, 546. Missir Charshi, 545. Monastery of the Dancing Dervishes, 543. — of the Howling-Dervishes, 557. Mosques: Ahmed I., 550. Arab, 543. Asab Kapu, 543. Aya Sophia, 548. Bayazid, 551. Büyük, 556. Eyub, 555. Fatih, 552. Hamidieh, 544. Jihangir, 544. Kahrieh, 553. Kilij Ali Pasha, 545. Küchük Aya Sophia, 550. Mahmud II., 544. Mehmedieh, 552. Mihrimah, 553. Mohammed II., 552. Nuri Osmanieh, 550. Rustem Pasha, 545. Selim I., 553. Shahzadeh, 552. Suleiman the Great, 552. Valideh, 544. Yeni Valideh, 545. — — (Scutari), 556. Museum, New, 546. Nuri Osmanieh Kapu, 551. Obelisk of Theodosius I., 549. Oriental Art Museum, 517. Orta Kapu, 548. Ortakjilar, 554. Ousoun Tcharchi, 551. Palaces: Blachernæ, 554. Chiragan Seraï, 558. Dolma Bagcheh, 544, 558. Podestà, 543. Seraglio, 548. Pentapyrgion, 554. Pera, 543. Petits Champs, 544. Phanar, 555. Place Dolma Bagtché Déré, 544. — du Taxim, 545. — Emin Eunou, 545. Porta Aurea, 554. Post Offices, 538. Public Grounds, 544, 549. Restaurants, 537. Robert College, 558. Rue de Karakeuï, 543. — Divan Yolou, 550. St. George, Church of, 553. Salajak, 556. School of Art, 546. Scutari, 556. Sea Walls, 541, 554. Second-Hand Market, 551. Seraglio or Seraï, 546. Seraï Meïdán, 548. Seraskerat, 551. Serasker Kapu, 551. — Tower, 551. Sheikh ul-Islam, Residence of the, 552. Snake Column, 549. So-uk Cheshmeh Gate, 546. Stambul, 545. — Liman, 556. Sublime Porte, 546. Sweet Waters of Europe, 556. Taxim Park, 544. Tekfur Seraï, 554. Telegraph Offices, 538. Ters Haneh, 555. Theatre, 539. Top Haneh, 544. — Kapu, 554. — — Seraï, 546. Towers of Isaak Angelos and Anemas, 554. Tramways, 538. Tunnel Line, 538. Türbeh Kheireddin Barbarossa, 544. — of Mahmud II., 550. — of Roxolana, 552. — of Suleiman, 552. Üsküdar, 556. Valideh Han, 551. Yanik Kapu, 543. Yedi Kuleh, 554. Yemish Iskelesí, 555. Yeni Mahallah, 557. Yildiz Kiosque, 544. Yüksek Kaldirim, 543.

Constantza, 563.

Contraviesa, Sierra, 112.

Cora, 282.

Corbelin, Cape, 130.

Corcyra, 497.

Cordova, 68.

Corfu, 496.

Corinth, 502.

—, Gulf of, 501.

Corregos, Bocca dos, 26.

Corse, Cape, 143.

Corsica, 133.

Corso-Tahtâni, 249.

Cortadas Pass or Cortado, Bocca do, 27.

Corunna, 3.

Cos, 490.

Cospicua, 400.

Courbet, 253.

Couronne, Cap, 119.

Crampel, 186.

Cretan Sea, 492, 416.

Crete, 415.

Crimea, 568, xxxiv.

Croisette, Cap, 119.

Cruz, Pico da, 26.

—, Pico da Ponta da, 25.

—, Ponta da, 21.

— Alta, 16.

— de Afur, 37.

— el Carmen, 37.

— de Taganana, 37.

Cruzinhas Ridge, the, 27.

Cuccio, Monte, 147.

Cuesta, 36.

Cueva de Menga, 72.

Cuicul, 272.

Cumæ, 137.

Cumbre, the, 37.

Cumbrecita, 48.

Cumbre Nueva, 48.

— Vieja, 48.

Curra, Dique de la, 125.

Curral, Gran or — das Freiras, 25.

— dos Romeiros or

Curralinho, 24.

Cyanean Islands, 560.

Cyclades, 492, xxxii.

Cynossema, Cape, 490.

Cyprus, 489.

Cyrenaica, 413.

Cyrene, 414.

Dahar Cliffs, 405.

Dahra, the, 208, 169.

Dahshûr, 464.

Dakla, the, 326.

Damanhûr, 437.

Damascus, 484.

Damesme, 199.

Damietta, 418

Damous el-Karita, 349.

Damrémont, 303.

Dar el-Aroussa, 279.

Dar el-Beida, 107.

Dar-Chabane, 365.

Dardanelles (strait), 534, xxxiv.

— (town), 534.

Dardanos, 534.

Darna, 259.

Darnis (Darnae), 414.

Dar el-Oued, 267.

— -Raous, Plaine de, 279.

Darro, the, 74.

Daya Morselli, 185.

Debabcha, 388.

Debila, 285.

Debrousseville, 200.

Deggach, 388.

Deir Abân, 470.

Delimara Point, 411.

Dellys, 254.

—, Cape, 254.

Delos, 417.

Demîrdâsh, 459.

Demonnesoi, the, 535.

Depienne, 358.

Derât, 469.

Dermèche, 344.

Derna, 414.

Desaix, 242.

Desertas, 17, 20.

Devna Canal, 562.

Dia, 416.

Diakophto, 501.

Diana Veteranorum, 275.

Diaplo, 496.

Dikili Cliffs, 560.

Dikte, 492.

Dimaski, 485.

Dimishk, 484.

Diospolis, 470.

Divača, 427.

Divo Cliff, 569.

Djara, 390.

Djebel-Abiod, 328.

— -Djelloud, 358.

— -Ouat, 358.

Djedeïda, 329.

Djehim, 387.

Djelfa, 215.

El-Djem, 379.

Djemaâ, 285.

Djemâa Ford, the, 257.

— el-Ghazaouât, 198.

Djemila, 272.

Djemmal, 369.

Djemmorah, 278.

Djenien-bou-Resg, 203.

Djerba, 393.

Djerda, 131.

Djeribia, 130.

Djerid, the, 386.

Djermân-Tahtàni, 203.

Djezira el-Kebira, 352.

Djidiouïa, 208.

Djidjelli, 267.

Djilma, 371.

Djinet, Cape, 253.

Djorf Bou-Grara, 392.

Djurdjura, Canton du, 258.

— Mts., 258, 169.

Dniester Liman, 564.

Dobruja, 562.

Dodekanesos, 490.

Dolma Bagcheh, 558.

Domaine de l’Habra et de la Macta, 200.

— de Oued-Melah, 389.

Donusa, 417.

Dor, 468.

Doris, 490.

Doro, Straits of, 529.

Douaouda-les-Bains, 238.

Douar ech-Chott, 344.

Dougga, 355.

Douirat, 392.

Douro, the, 3.

Draa, the, 93.

Drago, Punta del, 33.

Dragonera, 112.

Drâht en-Nadour, 387.

Drah Tozeur, 387.

Drâ-Kalawi, 268.

Dra el-Khemis, Col de, 250.

— el-Mizan, 254.

Drea, 314.

Drepana, 153.

Drépano, Cape, 416.

Drepanon, 530.

Drinaupa, 117.

Droh, 284.

Dukato, Kavo, 500.

Dummar, 484.

Dunes, Les, 237.

Duperré, 210.

Dutertre, 210.

Duveyrier, 203.

Duvivier, 308.

Duzerville, 309.

Dyo Adelphia, 530.

Dyr el-Kef, 357.

Eaux-Chaudes, Les, 201.

Ebba-Ksour, 361.

Edough, Mount, 128. 131.

Eétioneia (peninsula), 495.

Eghris, Plaine d’, 200.

Ekron, 470.

Elasa, 492.

Elba, 143.

Elbruz or Elburz, 570.

Eleusis, 502.

Eleutheros, the, 469.

Elia, Monte, 155.

Elvira, Sierra, 73.

Embâbeh, 464.

Emine, Cape, 562.

Emirgian, 559.

Empalme de Morón, 57.

Emporia, the, 389.

Encumeada Alta, 27.

Enfida, the, 365.

Enfidaville, 365.

Ephesus, 491.

Epipolæ, 165.

Epomeo, Monte, 135.

Equizetum, 270.

Eregli, 535.

Erekli, 576.

— Burnu, 572.

Eremonisia, 417.

Erg Oriental, 285.

Ericusa (Lipari Is.), 146.

Erikusa (Othonian Is.), 496.

Erythrae, 493.

Erythrum, 414.

Eryx, 153.

Escalona, 42.

Escombrera, 125.

Eski Stambul, Cape, 533.

El-Esnam, 251.

Espichel, Cabo de, 5.

Espigón Hill, the, 42.

Esrah, Pointe, 131.

Estreito, 26.

Eubœa, 529.

Euhesperidæ, 413.

Eulmas, Plaine des, 272.

Europa Pass, 55.

— Point, 55.

Euryelus, 166.

Eyub, 555.

Ezbet ez-Zeitûn, 459.

Eze, 112.

Fahass or El-Fahs, 99.

El-Faïdja, 203.

Faïdjet el-Betoum, 202.

Fajãa dos Padres, 26.

Falaises, Grandes, 267.

—, Promenade des, 184.

Falcon, Cape, 125.

Falcone, Monte, 153.

—, Punta del, 133.

Fanaraki, 560.

Fanar Burnu, 535.

Faraglioni, the, 155.

Farina, Cape, 129.

Faro, 158.

—, Capo del, 117.

Fassa, Cape, 529.

Favignana, 153.

Fayal, 27.

Fedalah, 107.

Fedja Grandpré, 320.

Fedj el-Makta, Col de, 312.

— el-Tameur, 362.

Feghiha castra tria, 204.

Félix-Faure, 253.

Fenaïa, Valley of the, 261.

Fener Bagcheh, 535.

Fenerkiöi, 560.

Feno, Capo di, 133.

Feodossiya, 570.

Fer, Cap de, 131.

— à Cheval, 184.

Feriana, 371.

Fermatou, 269.

Ferme, La (near Orléansville), 209.

— Demonchy, 239.

— Dufourg, 279.

— du Rocher-Plat, 239.

— Seuillet, 238.

— Tazout, 184.

— Trémaux, 243.

Fernana, 327.

Fernandea, Isola, 154.

Fernán Núñez, 72.

Ferrat, Cape, 112.

Ferrato, Capo, 144.

Ferrau, Monte, 144.

Ferro, Capo di, 133.

Ferryville, 352.

Fesdis, 275.

Fetatcha, 278.

Fetzara, Lac, 303.

Ficheur, Pic, 254.

Fidonisi, 564.

Figalo, Cape, 125.

Figuier, Plaine du, 185.

Figuig, 204.

Fil Burnu, 560.

Filfola, 411.

Filicuri, 146.

Filliache, 283.

Finale Marina, 113.

Finisterre, Cape, 3.

Fiolente, Cape, 569.

Flavia Neapolis, 468.

Fleurus, 199.

Foja, 530.

Follónica, 134.

Fondouk Djedid, 364.

— el-Kantara, 353.

Fontaine-Chaude (near Batna), 274.

— — (near Biskra), 283.

— des Gazelles, 278.

— -Fraîche, 260.

Fora, Ilheo de, 20.

Forja (island), 25.

Formentera, 126.

Formentor, Cape, 112.

Formíche di Grosseto, 135.

Foros, Church of, 569.

Fortaleza, the, 42.

Fortassa, 208.

Fort-de-l’Eau, 248, 127.

Forte Ihleo, 24.

Fort Jemil, 418.

— l’Empereur, 127.

— -National, 257.

— Sanjak Kalesi, 530.

Fostât, 443.

Fouka-Marine, 238.

Foum Ksantina, 296.

— Tizourit, 273.

Fountains, Great and Little, 568.

Fraile, Punta del, 6.

Frailes, the, 112.

Fratelli, the, 132.

Frenda, 208.

Fretum Gaditanum or Herculeum, 5.

— Siculum, 155.

Fuencaliente, 48.

Fuente de Santa Catalina, 43.

— Piedra, 72.

Fumm es-Sahara, 276.

Funchal, 21.

Furado, Levada do, 27.

—, Ponta do, 20.

Gabes, 389.

—, Gulf of, 381.

Gabès-Port, 390.

Gades, 58.

Gádor, Sierra de, 112.

Gaëta, Gulf of, 135.

Gaffour, 360.

Gafsa, 383.

Gagry, 570.

Gaïdaronisi (island in Gulf of Ægina), 529.

— (island near Samos), 490.

— (island near Tenedos), 533.

Galata, Cape, 562.

Galati, 158.

Galera, La 162.

Galeras, Castillo de las, 125.

Galeres, the, 101.

Galilee, 469.

Galite, Ile de la, 132.

Galland, Pic de, 258.

Gallico, 159.

Gallinaria, 113.

Gallipoli, 535.

Gallo, Cape (near Palermo), 152.

—, Capo (near Brindisi), 429.

Gambetta, 184.

Gañanias, Montaña de las, 38.

Ganzirri, Lago di, 158.

Garaa Mabtouha, 351.

Garaet Ichkeul or Achkel, 352.

— el-Oglal, 385.

— et-Tarf, 273.

Garajão, Cabo do, 21.

Garde, Cap de, 311. 128.

Gardes, Ravin des, 275.

Gargano, Monte, 428.

Garitza, 498.

Gasturi, 499.

Gata, Cabo de, 112.

—, Cape, 489.

Gaucin, 56.

Gaulos, 404.

Gavdos, 418.

Gazules, Sierra de los, 6.

Gebel Turra, 464.

Gedis Chai, the, 530.

Gemlek, Gulf of, 535.

Genil, 72, 74.

Gennesaret, Lake of, 469.

Genoa, 113.

—, Gulf of, 113, 134.

Genoese Castle (Bosporus), 560.

Genovés, Puerto, 112.

Geraneia, 494.

Gergârish, 411.

Gergis, 392.

Gerizim, Mt., 468.

Géryville, 201.

Gezer, 470.

Gezîreh or Gezîret Bûlâk, 457.

— Tirsâ, 464.

El-Gharbia, 104.

Ghardaïa, 216.

Ghardimaou, 325.

Ghaudex, 404.

Ghennouch, 389.

Ghermes, 414.

Gianitsades, 492.

Giannutri, 135.

Giant’s Mt., 559.

Giardini-Taormina, 158.

Giarre, 158.

Gibralfaro, 89.

Gibraltar, 52.

—, Bay of, 6.

—, Straits of, 5, xxix.

Gightis, 392.

Giglio, 135.

Gihon, 480.

Gioia, Bay of, 155.

Gîr, Cape, 110.

Girão, Cabo, 25.

El-Gisr, 438.

Giurdan Hill, 396.

Gîzeh, 461.

Glacières, Les, 215.

Gobantes, 88.

El-Goléa, 216.

Goletta, 343. 129.

Gomera, 28. 30.

Goni Islands, 493.

Gorgolho, 25.

Gorgona, 143.

Gornalunga, 159.

Goshen, 438.

Goulette, La, 343.

— Neuve, La, 344.

Gourara, Bassin du, 170.

Govino, Bay of, 500.

Gozo (Gavdos), 418.

— (Malta), 403. 397.

Göz Tepeh, 532.

Grabusa, 415.

Graïba, 383.

=Granada=, 73. Alameda, 77. — del Darro, 78. Albaicín, the, 74, 79. Albaida, 78. Alcaicería, 76. ALHAMBRA, 79. Abencerrages, Hall of the, 84. Adarves, Jardin de los, 82. Alcazaba, 81. Alhambra Palace, 82. — Vase, 85. Alta Alhambra, 86. Ambassadors, Hall of the, 83. Aposentos de Carlos Quinto, 86. Baths, 85. Capilla, 85. Carmen de Arratía, 86. Casa Real, 82. Comares, Torre de, 83. Cuarto Dorado, 85. Ghafar, 82. Lions, Court of the, 84. Mexuar, 85. Mezquita Real, 86. Mirador de Daraxa, 85. Moorish Chapel, 86. Mosala, 85. Myrtle Court, 83. Palace of Charles V., 86. Park, 80. Patio de Daraxa, 86. — de la Alberca, 83. — de la Reja, 86. — del Mexuar, 85. — de los Arrayanes, 83. — de los Leones, 84. Peinador de la Reina, 86. Puerta de Hierro, 87. — de la Alcazaba, 81. — de las Granadas, 80. — del Carril, 81. — de los Siete Suelos, 87. — del Vino, 81. — Judiciaria, 81. Rauda, 85. Sala de la Barca, 83. — de la Justicia, 84. — de las Camas, 86. — de las Dos Hermanas, 85. — de los Ajimeces, 85. — de los Embajadores, 83. — de los Mocárabes, 84. — de los Reyes, 84. — del Tribunal, 84. Santa Maria, Church of, 86. Torre de la Cautiva, 87. — del Agua, 87. — de las Damas, 86. — de las Infantas, 87. — de la Vela, 82. — del Homenaje, 81. — de los Picos, 87. — del Peinador, 86. — Quebrada, 81. Torres Bermejas, 80. Tortosa, House of, 81. Two Sisters, Hall of the, 85. Viaduct, 85. Zaguán, 85. Assabica, Monte de la, 79. Audiencia, 78. Ayuntamiento, 76. Bañuelo, 78. Cabs, 73. Cafés, 73. Calle de los Reyes Católicos, 75. Camino del Sacro Monte, 78. Capilla Real, 76. Carrera del Darro, 78. — del Genil, 77. Casa de Castril, 78. — del Cabildo Antigua, 77. — del Carbón, 76. — del Chapiz, 78. — de los Tiros, 77. Castle Wall, 79. Cerro del Sol, 74. Churches: Cathedral, 76. Sagrario, 77. San Juan de los Reyes, 79. — Nicolás, 79. — Pedro y San Pablo, 78. Santa Ana, 78. Santo Domingo, 77. Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo, 77. Cuesta del Chapiz, 78. — del Rey Chico, 78. Cuevas, 78. Generalife, 87. Gran Via de Colon, 75. Hotels, 73. Isabella the Catholic, Statue of, 77. Lonja, 77. Mauror, Monte, 80. Miradores, 87. Paseo del Salón, 77. — del Triunfo, 75. Patio de los Cipreses, 87. Placeta de la Lonja, 77. — de las Pasiegas, 76. Plaza de Bibarrambla, 76. — Nueva, 78. Post Office, 73. Puerta de Elvira, 75. — de los Estandartes, 79. — Monáita, 79. Sacro Monte, 78. Sagrario, 77. San Miguel el Alto, 79. Santa Isabel la Real, Nunnery of, 79. Silla del Moro, 88. Tramways, 73.

Gran Canaria or Grand Canary, 43.

Grand-Cavallo, Ile du, 131.

Grande-Porte, 270.

Grandes Falaises, 267.

Grand Rocher, 237.

Granikos, the, 535.

Granítola, Punta di, 154.

Gran Sasso d’Italia, 428.

Greco, Capo, 489.

Grieta, Roques de la, 42.

Grifone, Monte, 147.

Grignano, 427.

Grombalia, 364.

Grosa, Punta, 112.

Grossa Island, 429.

Guadaira, 57.

Guadajoz, 68.

—, the, 72.

Guadalete, 59.

Guadalevin, 56.

Guadalhorce, 72, 88.

Guadalmedina, 89.

Guadalquivir, 50, 61, xxx.

Guadarranque, 56.

Guadiana Menor, 50.

Guadiaro, the, 56.

Guajara Hill, the, 42.

— Pass, 42.

Guallala, 394.

Guamaza, 47.

Guanarteme, Istmo de, 43.

Guancha, 43.

—, Pinal de la, 42.

Guardia, Cap, 129.

—, Punta della, 133.

— Vecchia, 133.

Guebba, 388.

Gué-de-Constantine, 217.

— du Nador, 243.

Guelma, 308.

Guelt es-Stel, 215.

Guerdjoum, 200.

Guergour, Massif de, 269.

Guerra, Valle de, 38.

El-Guerrah, 272.

Guerrara, 216.

El-Guettar, 385.

Güimar, 36.

—, Garganta de, 40.

Guiniguada, Barranco de, 44.

Gümüshkhaneh, 574.

Gurena, 414.

Gursuff, 570.

Guyotville, 237.

Güzel Hissar, 558.

Habel, El-, 284.

Habibas, Isles, 125.

Habra, the, 200.

Hacho, Sierra del, 88.

Hadege, 391.

El-Hadet, 483.

Hadid, Cape, 109.

Hadjar-Roum, 186.

Hadjeb el-Aïoun, 371.

Hadrumetum, 367.

Haffet el-Beida, 104.

El-Haffey, 385.

Hagiar Kim, 403.

Hagi Deka, 499.

Hagios Dimitrios Tepeh, 534.

— Elias (Chios), 529.

— — (Eubœa), 529.

— Georgios, 494.

— — Islands, 533.

— Joannes, 530.

— Theódoros, 499.

Hagiostrati, 536.

Haha, 110.

Haidar Pasha, 536.

Haidra, 362.

Haifa, 468.

Halikarnassus, 490.

Halonnesos, 536.

Hal Saflieni, 402.

Halys, the, 575.

El-Hamel, 271.

El-Hamma (near Gabes), 388.

Hamma, Le, 303.

Hammada Kessera, 360.

El-Hamma du Djérid (near Tozeur), 387.

Hammam, 271.

— Bou-Hadjar, 184.

— Bou-Hanifia, 200.

— -Darradji, 326.

Hammamet, 364.

Hammam-Foukâni, 205.

— -Guergour, 269.

El-Hammâmin, 205.

Hammam-Lif, 363.

— -Melouan, 248.

— -Meskoutine, 307.

— Ouled-Khaled, 201.

— Rhira, 212.

— es-Salahin, 283.

— Sidi-Cheikh, 198.

— — el-Hadj, 278.

— — M’Cid, 302.

— — Slîmân, 212.

— Sousse, 366.

— -Tahtâni, 205.

Hamrun, 403.

Hamza, Plaine du, 250.

El-Hanaïat, Col d’, 262.

Hara-Kebîra, 394.

— -Serîra, 394.

Harmyro Bay, 416.

Hasi-ben-Hedjir, 203.

Hassasna, the, 201.

Haurân, 489.

Haussonvillers, 253.

Haut-Mornag-Crétéville, 358.

El-Hawamdîyeh, 464.

Hekatonesoi, 533.

Helena, 529.

Heliopolis Oasis, 459.

— -On, 459.

Hellespont, 534.

Henchir Bou-Chateur, 353.

— Bou-Garfa, 388.

— Fradiz, 365.

— -Kasbat, 359.

— Maâtria, 355.

— Mest, 357.

— Sbia, 370.

— Sidi Ali Bel-Kassem, 325.

— Souatir, 372.

Hennaya, 185.

Heraclea Pontica, 576.

Heracleum Promontorium, 575.

Heraklea, 535.

Herákleion, 416.

Herbillon, 131.

Hercules Grotto, 102.

Hergla, 365.

El-Heri, 329.

Hermon, Mt., 489.

Hermonassa, 574.

Hermopolis Parva, 437.

Hermos, the, 530.

Hidalgo, Punta del, 37.

Hielo, Cueva del, 42.

Hiera, 153.

Hieron (Bosporus), 560

—, Cape, 574.

Hierosolyma, 472.

Hillil, L’, 207.

Hippo Diarrhytus, 353.

Hippodrome, 273.

Hippo Regius, 311, 309.

Hiraklitsa, 535.

Hodna, Monts du, 270.

Homem em Pé, 27.

Hondo, Barranco, 38.

Honeïn, 125.

Horca, Montaña de la, 38.

Hormiga Grande, 112.

Horrea Caelia, 365.

Houmt-Souk, 393.

Hoyo de Chorro, 88.

H’sen, the, 205.

Huelva, 5.

Humboldt Corner, 38.

Hunkiar Iskelesi, 559.

Hussein-Dey, 233.

Hydra, Cape, 530.

— (island), 494.

Hyères, Iles d’, 133, 112.

Hymettos, Mt., 494.

Iaci 158.

Ich (oasis), 203.

Icherridène, 258.

Ichoukkân, 296.

Icod, Corona de, 42.

— Alto, 42.

— de los Vinos, 43.

Icosium 221.

Ida Range (Crete), 416.

— — (now Kas Dagh), 533.

Idafe, the, 48.

Ieros, Cape, 574.

If, 119.

Ighzer-Amokran, 251.

Igilgili, 267.

Iglesiente, 129.

Igueste, 36.

Ikaria, 492.

Iki Kardash, 530.

Ilanjik, 562.

Iluro, 88.

Imbros, 533.

Imperatore, Punta, 118.

Imros Kalesi, 560.

Incoronata Island, 429.

Ineboli, 576.

Iniada, Cape, 562.

Injeh Burun, 576.

Inkermann, 208.

Innaûen, 94.

In Salah, 216.

Insulæ Cuniculariae, 133.

— Diomedeae, 428.

— Dionysiades, 492.

— Fortunatae, 28.

Iol, 244.

Iomnium, 256.

Ionia, 491.

Ionian Sea, 418, xxxi.

Ionopolis, 576.

Iós, 417.

Iris, the, 575.

Iroses, Pico dos, 21.

Isabel Segunda, Isla, 124.

Ischia, 118, 135.

Iskanderîeh, 432.

Isleta, the, 43.

Ismaîlîya, 438.

Ismid, Gulf of, 535.

Isola Grande, 153.

— Rossa Bay, 118.

Isser, Ravine of the, 250.

—, the (near Algiers), 253.

—, the (near Oran), 185.

Issers, Les, 253.

Isserville, 253.

Istankiöi, 490.

Istria, 429.

Ithaca, 500.

Ivi, Cape, 118.

Iviza, 112. 126.

Izaña, Monte de, 36.

Izmir, 531.

Jaffa, 467.

Jalta, 569.

Jamur, 153.

Jardim da Serra, 26.

Jardins, Vallée des, 198.

Jarros, Ile, 132.

Jasonium Promontorium, 575.

Jebel Abiod, 153.

— Adrar Amellah, 268.

— Afoerer, 267.

— Ahmar, 353.

— — Khaddou, 284.

— Aïssa, 202.

— Akhdar, 93.

— el-Akhouat, 360.

— Akouker, 258.

— Alima, 386.

— Amour, 170.

— Anini, 269.

— Antar, 202.

— Arbalou, 262.

— Assalah, 384.

— Ayata, 362.

— Azeb, 275.

— Babor, 269.

— Bani, 93.

— el-Barûk, 483.

— bel-Khifeh, 315.

— Belloua, 254.

— Beni Bou Youssef, 68.

— — Felkaï, 268.

— — Hassan, 111.

— — Smir, 204.

— — Snassen, 197. 125.

— Ben-Younès, 384.

— Biadha, 383.

— Bir, 327.

— Bireno, 320.

— Borosse, 184.

— Bou Arif, 275.

— — el-Hanèche, 362.

— — Hedma, 383.

— — -Hellal, 388.

— — Hini, 261.

— — Kadra, 314.

— — Kornin, 363.

— — Leghfad, 203.

— — Maad, 210.

— — Merzoug, 275.

— — -Ramli, 384.

— — -Rebbah, 326.

— — Rezel, 282.

— — Roumane, 320.

— — Sessou, 314.

— — Yala, 304.

— — -Zegza, 249.

— Chambi, 371. 320.

— Chaouach, 328.

— Char, 362.

— Charra, 328.

— Chelia, 278.

— Chenoua, 242.

— Chettaba, 297.

— ou Chiouen, 262.

— Chouka, 186.

— Debar, 307.

— Demmer, 390.

— Dersa, 103.

— Dira, 250. 169.

— Dissa, 388.

— Djaffar, 359.

— Djara, 203.

— Djinet, 253. 130.

— Djira, 206.

— Doui, 209.

— Doukkan, 315.

— Dyr, 315.

— el-Dzeroua, 314.

— Edough, 309.

— Essor, 276.

— Fadloun, 405.

— Faroua, 320.

— Fedj el-Adoum, 357.

— Filfila, 131.

— Fillaoussen, 198.

— Gaous, 276.

— Garci, 365.

— Gharribou, 278.

— Gontas, 211.

— Gorra, 355.

— Gouari, 131.

— Gouraya, 265.

— Gourin, 270.

— Groun, 278.

— Grouz, 204.

— Gueldaman, 251.

— Hadid, 131.

— el-Hadid, 109.

— Hadjar, 208.

— Hadjra Touïla, 210.

— el-Haïmer, 203.

— Haïzer (Haïzeur), 254.

— Haouidja, 278.

— el-Herrech, 326.

— Hout es-Srir, 314.

— Ichkeul, 352.

— Imoulentaour, 266.

— Iril ou Moula, 258.

— Jellabia, 385.

— Kahar, 184.

— Kalaât es-Senam, 362.

— Kâsyûn, 489.

— Kebdana, 124.

— Kebouch, 357.

— Kechbata, 354.

— Keneiseh, 483.

— Kerkour, 198.

— Khaoui, 351.

— Kherouf, 328.

— Klab, 359.

— Korbous, 364.

— Kouif, 318.

— Kouriet, 258.

— Kraoui, 351.

— Kréréga, 314.

— Kristel, 184.

— Kroubset, 278.

— Kteuf (Constantine), 270.

— — (near El-Kantara), 278.

— Lakhdar, 93.

— Lorbeus, 360.

— Mâadid, 270.

— Maaziz, 198.

— Mahabouba, 312.

— Mahouna, 308.

— el-Maïz, 204.

— Maïza, 360.

— Majora, 383.

— Maknassi, 383.

— el-Malha, 202.

— Mâni, 489.

— Maouya, Gorah, 283.

— Mâr Elyâs, 468.

— Masser, 198.

— Massouge, 360.

— Matrona, 269.

— Mazella, 306.

— el-Meddad, 210.

— Mefroûch, 194.

— Megriss, 269.

— Mekter, 202.

— el-Melah, 278.

— Melias, 204.

— Menzel Roul, 353.

— Mes Ritan, 267.

— Mestoula, 314.

— Metlaoui, 386.

— Metlili, 277.

— Metloug, 314.

— Mezi, 203.

— Mezritan, 267.

— Mezzouna, 383.

— el-Mlaga, 282.

— Morghad, 202.

— Mouzaïa, 213.

— Mrilah, 371.

— Mulaï Abd es-Slam, 102.

— Murjajo, 182.

— Mûsa, 103.

— Mzita, 270.

— Mzouzia, 314.

— Nador, 308.

— Nadour (Djerid), 388.

— — (near Porto-Farina), 35.

— Nif-Ensser, 274.

— Orbata, 385.

— Orouze, 199.

— Osmor, 318.

— Ouamri, 254.

— Ouenza, 314.

— Oum el-Alleg, 383.

— Oust, 358.

— Rebia, 326.

— Rekaba, 320.

— Ressas, 358.

— er-Rihân, 469.

— Rosfa, 385.

— Roumana, 389.

— Saghro, 93.

— Sannîn, 483.

— Santon, 183.

— Sarro, 93.

— Sarsar, 105.

— Sbeïtla, 371.

— Sebaa-Chioukh, 185.

— Sedderts, 267.

— Seldja, 386.

— Selloum, 278.

— Semmama, 371.

— Serd, 320.

— Sicioun, 199.

— Sidi Abdalla, Ben-Cheid, 60.

— — Abd el-Kâder, 214.

— — R’gheïss, 273.

— — Youssef, 204.

— Smerten, 390.

— Soubouyou, 306.

— Souinia, 391.

— Stah, 386.

— Tababor, 128.

— Tadjera, 391.

— Tafrent, 273.

— Taguertine, 289.

— Takoucht, 268.

— Takroun, 365.

— Tamednaïa, 203.

— Taounnart, 267.

— Tarfai, 386.

— Tarfaoui, 388.

— Taya, 307.

— Tebaga, 388. 320.

— Tegrimont or Tegrimoun, 250.

— Temoulga, 209.

— Tenoukla, 318.

— Terni, 187.

— Tessala, 186.

— Tifech, 313.

— Tizibert, 259.

— Tiziren, 94.

— et-Tôr (Mt. Gerizim), 468.

— — (Mt. Tabor), 469.

— Touati, 391.

— Toudja, 262.

— Touggour, 275.

— Touila, 371.

— Toukra, 261.

— Tounga, 354.

— Tshemmish, 105.

— et-Tûr, 479.

— Zaccar Chergui, 212.

— — Gharbi, 212.

— Zafran, 360.

— Zaghouan, 359. 320.

— Zaïana, 364.

— Zebissa, 320.

— Zenâga, 205.

— Zeriba, 405.

— Zinat, 102.

— Zraïb, 261.

— Zrissa, 362.

Jebilet, 93.

El-Jedida, 108.

Jefâra, Steppe, 410.

Jefna, 352.

Jemmapes, 303.

Jerez de la, Frontera, 59.

Jerf el-Asfâr, 108.

=Jerusalem=, 470. Absalom, Tomb of, 480. Ascension, Chapel of the, 479. Augusta, Victoria, Institute, 479. Bâb el-Kattânîn, 476. Barracks, 475. Bazaar, New, 474. —, Old, 475. Bethlehem, 480. Birket es-Sultân, 480. Churches: Ascension (Russian), 479. Credo, 479. Holy Sepulchre, 474. Mary Magdalen, 480. Paternoster, 479. Redeemer, 475. St. Anne, 476. — Mary, 480. — — (Bethlehem), 481. Weihnachtskirche, 481. Consulates, 471. David Street, 473. Dome of the Chain, 478. — of the Rock, 477. Gates, 473. 475. Gethsemane, Garden of, 480. Golden Gate, 478. Haram esh-Sherîf, 476. Hâret en-Nâsara, 474. Hinnom, Valley of, 480. History, 472. Hospices, 470. Hotels, 470. Jaffa Suburb, 473. Jebel Abû Tôr, 480. — et-Tûr, 479. Job’s Well, 480. Kafr et-Tûr, 479. El-Kala, 473. El-Kâs, 478. Kidron, Valley of the, 480. Kings, Tombs of the, 479. Kubbet es-Sakhra, 477. — es-Silseleh, 478. Magi, Well of the, 480. Mesjid el-Aksâ, 478. Monasteries: Abyssinian, 475. Coptic, 475. Dormitio Sanctae Mariae, 473. Great Greek, 474. Mâr Elyâs, 480. St. Caralombos, 475. — John, 474. — Stephen, 479. Mûristân, 475. En-Nebi Dâûd, 473. Olives, Mount of, 479. Patriarch’s Bath, 474. — Pool, 474. Post Offices, 471. Rachel’s Tomb, 480. Russian Buildings, 473. St. James’s Cavern, 480. — Mary’s Fountain, 480. — Stephen’s Gate, 475. Es-Salâhîyeh, 476. Sebîl of Kâït Bey, 477. Siloah, 480. Siloam, Pool of, 480. Solomon’s Stables, 478. Tarîk Bâb es-Silseleh, 476. Temple Colony, German, 473. Town Wall, 473. Via Dolorosa, 475. Wailing Place of the Jews, 479. Zacharias, Pyramid of, 480. Zion Suburb, 473.

Jevislik, 574.

Jews’ River, 100.

Jimena, 56.

Joppa, 467.

Juby, Cape, 104.

Judæa, 466.

Juif, Col du, 197.

Juive, Col de la, 204.

Julber (château), 569.

Jurjura Mts., 258. 169.

Kabakos Bay (Bosporus), 560.

Kabakum Bay (Strait of Mytilini), 533.

Kabylia, Great, 252.

—, Little, 266.

Kadikiöi, 536.

Kafr ed-Dâwâr, 437.

— et-Tûr, 479.

— ez Zaiyât, 438.

Kaïkos, 533.

Kairwan, 372.

El-Kaisarîyeh, 468.

Kakûn, 468.

Kalâa, 207.

El-Kalaa, Anse,, 267.

El-Kalâa, Cape, 131.

Kalâa des Beni-Hammad, 270.

Kalaâ-Djerda, 362.

— -Kebira, 366.

— -Matmata, 391.

— -Srira, 366.

Kalaât es-Senam, 362.

Kalabât el-Mezzeh, 484.

Kalamas, the, 500.

Kalchedon, 536.

Kaleh Sultanieh, 534.

Kaliakra, Cape, 562.

Kallipolis, 535.

Kalmek Point, 572.

Kalogeros Cliffs, 529.

Kalógria, Cape, 500.

Kalolimni, 535.

Kalpe, 54.

Kalydnae, 533.

Kalymnos, 490.

Kalyûb, 438.

Kamára, 500.

Kamart, 351.

— Cape, 351.

Kandelëusa, 492.

Kandili, 558.

Kanlija, 559.

El-Kantara (Algeria), 276.

— (Djerba), 394.

— (Egypt), 438.

—, Gorge of, 278.

El-Kantour, Hills of, 303.

Kapu Dagh, 535.

Kara Burun (hill), 535.

— — (peninsula), 530.

— Dagh, 533.

— Denis, 561.

— — Boghaz, 557.

Karahissar, 574.

Karakova Dereh, 534.

Karibjeh Kalesí, 560.

Karouba, 207.

Karpathos, 491.

Kartha, 298.

Kasos, 491.

—, Strait of, 491.

Kasr Menara, the, 365.

— esh-Shama, 460.

— ez-Zit, 364.

Kassar-Saïd, 342.

Kasserine, 371.

Kastamuni, 576.

Kasteloryzo, 490.

Kastrades, 498.

Kastro, 493.

Katakolo, 502.

Katana, 160.

Kaystros, the, 491.

Kaz Dagh, 533.

K’Bouch, 261.

Kea (Keos), 529.

Kebilli, 388.

Kechili Bay, 560.

Kef, Le, 360.

— Bou Djabeur, 314.

— Chrea, 215.

— ed-Darsa, 278.

— Demeur, 390.

— ed-Door, 284.

— Mahmel, 278.

— Mechtob, 131.

— Raghma, 314.

— Randek, 268.

— Sachi, 211.

— Seba, 311.

— Sidi Abdallah, 327.

— Siga, 211.

— Toudjane, 391.

Kelibia, 405.

Kelmitou, the, 208.

Kephallēnia, 500.

Kerasun or Kerasund (Kerasūs), 574.

Kerembe, Cape, 576.

Kerkenna Islands, 405.

Kerki, Mt., 491.

Kérkyra, 497.

Kerpe, Cape, 576.

—, Island of, 491.

Kerrata, 268.

Kertch, Straits of, 570.

Ketena, 391.

Khamissa or Khemissa, 313.

Khanguet, 364.

— Fras, 361.

— el-Hadjadj, 358.

— Kef Tout, 328.

Khenchela, 273.

El-Kheraïb, 344.

Kherba, 209.

Khéreddine, 344.

Kherē-ohē, 443.

Khledia, 358.

Khoms, 412.

Khremensa, 362.

Khroub, Le, 273.

Kibris, 489.

Kikeneïs, Cape, 569.

Kilallin, 103.

Kilid Bahr, 534.

Kimolos, 492.

Kinlu Burun, 530.

Kinyps, the, 412.

Kiösteni, 530.

Kirba, Col de, 209.

Kiresün, 574.

Kiretsh Burnu, 559.

Kirid, 415.

Kirpe, Cape, 576.

— Island, 576.

Kisamo Bay, 415.

Kizil Adalar, 535.

— Irmak, 575.

Klazomenæ, 530.

Kléber, 199.

Klókova, 500.

Knossos, 416.

Koja Chai, 534.

Kolat Dagh, 571.

Koléa, 238.

Koraca, Cape, 491.

Korbous, 364.

Kordelio, 533.

Koronē, Bay of, 493.

Kouba, 233.

Koubbeh, Palais de, 459.

Koudiat el-Goulal, Col de, 379.

— Oum el-Arouah, 387.

Kralfallah, 201.

Kram, Le, 344.

Kreider, Le, 201.

Krennah, 414.

Kressida, the, 499.

Krib, Le, 360.

Krio, Cape, 415, 490.

Kristel, 184.

Kriz, 388.

Kroumirie, the, 326.

Kroussiah-Sahali, 370.

Ksantina, 297.

El-Ksar, 385.

Ksar Hellal, 360.

— Métameur, 391.

— es-Serîr, 123.

— Tifech, 313.

El-Kseur, 261.

— -Amizour, 252.

Ksiba, 378.

Ksour, 361.

—, Montagnes des (Algeria), 202. 170.

—, Monts des (Tunisia), 390. 320.

— -Essaf, 370.

Kubba Lalla-Setti, 187.

— Sidi-Abdallah, 198.

— — -Abd er-Rehou, 357.

— — -Brahim, 198.

— — -Salah, 380.

— — -Tahar, 198.

Küchük Chekmekjeh, 535.

Kum Kaleh, 534.

Kuratan, Cape, 562.

Kuriat Islands, 405.

Kuru Burnu, 562.

— Cheshmeh, 558.

El-Kus, 104.

Kuskunjuk, 558.

Küstenjeh, 563.

Kyamon, 416.

Kyane, the, 162.

Kydonia (Aivaly), 533.

— (Canea), 415.

Kyme, 137.

Kyparissia, Gulf of, 502.

Kypros, 489.

Kythera, 494.

Kythnos, 492.

Lacs, Les, 274.

Lac Souterrain (near Hammam Meskoutine), 307.

Lacus Hipponensis, 352.

— Regius, 274.

Ladesta, 429.

Læstrygonian Fields, 159.

Laghouat, 215.

Lagos, 5.

Lagosta, 429.

Laguna, 36.

— Salada, 72.

Lagussae, 533.

Laigueglia, 113.

Laktoube, Forêt de, 207.

Lalia, 283.

Lalla Khedidja, 259.

— -Marnia, 197.

Lambdia, 215.

Lambèse (Lambessa), 286.

Lambiridi, 276.

Lamiggiga, 275.

Lamoricière, 186.

Lamoune, Fort, 183.

Lampsaki (Lampsakos), 534.

Lamta, 369.

Lamur, 181.

Lansheron, 568.

Larash, 104.

Lares, 360.

Larnaka, 489.

Lartos, Cape, 490.

Lasithi Mts., 492.

Laspi, Bay of, 569.

Laturus Sinus, 199.

Lauriers-Roses, Les, 186.

Lavarande, 210.

Laverdure, 312.

Laverie, La, 358.

Lavezzi, 133.

Lazistan Mts., 571.

Lebanon, 483, xxxiv.

Lebedus, 491.

Lebida (Lebda), 412.

Leça da Palmeira, 3.

Lecourbe, 270.

Lectum Promontorium, 533.

Leghorn, 143.

Leïla, 385.

Leixões, 3.

Lemeny, 569.

Lemnos, 533.

Lempta, 369.

Lentini, 159.

Leona, Cape, 123.

Leontinoi, 159.

Lepsia, 490.

Leptis Magna, 412.

— Minor, 369.

Lérins, Iles de, 112.

Leros, 490.

Lesbos, 533.

Leucadian Rock, 500.

Leuka Orē, 415.

Levada Velha (Madeira), 26.

Levant, Ile du, 112.

Levante, Riviera di, 134.

Lévanzo, 153.

Lévitha, 492.

Levkás, 500.

Lévkimo, Cape, 500.

Libar, Sierra de, 56.

Libyan Desert, 461.

Licosa, Punta, 155.

Lido, 424.

Ligata, 412.

Ligula, the, 344.

Ligurian Alps, 112.

— Sea, 112.

Likumpt, 93.

Lilibeo, Capo, 153.

Lilybaeum, 153.

Limagues, 388.

Limassol, 489.

Limbara, Monti di, 133.

Limnos, 533.

Linaro, Cape, 135.

Lindless, Cape, 125.

Lindos, 490.

Linea de la Concepción, 56.

Linosa, 396.

Lions, Gulf of, 119.

—, Montagne des, 184.

Lipari, 155.

Lipari Islands, 155, 146.

Lipso, 490.

Lipsokutáli, 494.

Lisbóa, 9.

=Lisbon=, 6. Alameda de São Pedro de Alcántara, 11. Aqueducto das Aguas Livres, 12. Arsenal do Exército, 14. Artillery Museum, 14. Avenida da Liberdade, 11. Banks, 8. Belem, 14. —, Tower of, 14. Botanic Garden, 11. Buenos Ayres, 12. Bull Ring, 8. Cable Tramways, 7. Cabs, 7. Caes das Columnas, 10. Cafés-Restaurants, 7. Campo dos Martyres da Patria, 12. Casa dos Bicos, 13. — Pia, 14. Castello de São Jorge, 13. Central Railway Station, 6, 11. Churches: Basilica do Santissimo Coração de Jesús, 12. Carmo, Igreja do, 11. Estrella, 12. N.S. da Conceição Velha, 13. — da Graça, 13. — da Misericordia, 13. — do Monte, 13. Santa Maria, 14. São Roque, 11. — Vicente de Fóra, 13. Sé Patriarchal, 13. Cidade Baixa, 10. Collina do Castello, 9. Convento dos Jeronymos de Belem, 14. English Cemetery, 12. Estrada da Circumvallação, 9. Hotels, 6. Jardim da Estrella, 12. Junqueira, 14. Largo do Rato, 12. Lifts, 7. Lisboa Occidental, 11. — Oriental, 12. Market, 11. Mercado, 14. Meteorological Station, 11. Monumento dos Restauradores de Portugal, 11. Museum, Natural History, 11. Museu Nacional das Bellas Artes, 14. — — dos Coches, 14. Observatory, 11. Paço de Belem, 14. Palacio das Côrtes, 12. Pantheon Real, 13. Pelourinho, 14. Polytechnic School, 11. Post Office, 7. Praça de Dom Pedro IV., 10. — de Luis de Camões, 12. — de Vasco da Gama, 14. — do Commercio, 10. — do Rio de Janeiro, 11. Rocío, 11. Rua da Escola Polytechnica, 11. — Garrett, 12. São Vicente de Fóra, Monastery of, 13. Statues: Joseph, I. 10. Pedro IV., 11. Steamers, 8. Tagus, Bay of the, 9. Theatres, 8. Tramways, 7.

Lissa, 429.

Littré, 210.

Livádia, 570.

Livorno, 142.

Livramento, 25.

Lix, the, 104.

Lixus, 105.

Llanos, Los, 48.

Loano, 113.

Lod, 470.

Loja, 72.

Loma Pelada, Punta de, 112.

Lomo de Vega, 42.

— Tiezo, 41.

Longo Sardo, Bay of, 133.

Lorbeus, 360.

Lotophagi, Island of the, 393.

Lourmel, 185.

El-Lubban, 468.

Ludd, 470.

Lugar de Baixo, 26.

Lukkus, the, 104.

Lunga Island, 429.

Lussin, 429.

Lustdorf, 568.

Lydda, 470.

Lydia, 490.

Lykaeon, the, 502.

Lytri, 493.

Maâfa, 276.

— Valley, 277.

Maâjen Bel-Abbès, 372.

Maalif Plain, the, 201.

Maatkas, 254.

Machico, 21.

Mac-Mahon, 276.

Macta, La, 200.

Madaraes Mts., 415.

Madaura (Madauros), 314.

Maddalena, 133.

—, Penisola della, 162.

Madeira, 17.

Madera, Barranco de la, 47.

El-Mader-Pasteur, 275.

Madoníe Mts., 146.

Magdalena (Madeira), 26.

Maggiore, Monte, 429.

Magnisi, Penisola, 159.

Maharátsh, 570.

Maharès, 383.

Mahboubine, 394.

Mahdia, 369.

Mahmûdîyeh Canal, 433. 437.

Mahon, 127.

Maiella, 428.

Maillot, 251.

Maire, Ile, 132.

Maison-Blanche, 249.

— Cantonnière, 259.

— -Carrée, 247.

El-Maïz, 205.

Majar Bay, 560.

Majorca, 112.

Majouba, 362.

Makáron Nésoi, 28.

Maknassi, 383.

Makronisi (Gulf of Smyrna), 530.

— (Straits of Kea), 529.

Maktar, 360.

Maktarium, 360.

Malabata, Cape, 57.

Málaga, 88.

—, Bahia de, 89.

—, Vega or Hoya de, 89.

Malakoff, 208.

Mal di Ventre, Isola di, 129.

Maléa, Cape (Greece), 494.

—, Cape (Mytilini), 533.

Malga, La, 348.

Mallorca, 112.

Malta, 397. xxx.

Maltepe, Cape, 533.

Malucha, the, 124.

Mamaia, 563.

Mamora Forest, 105.

El-Mamoura, 365.

Manchas, Las, 48.

Mandraki, 490.

Manfredonia, Bay of, 428.

Mangalia, 563.

Mani (peninsula), 493.

Manissa Dagh, 530.

Manouba, La, 342.

Manoubia Hill, 339.

Mansoura, 270.

—, Plateau de, 274.

Mansouria, Pointe, 267.

Mansura, Ruins of, 193.

Marabout Island, 418.

—, Plateau du, 183.

— Sidi-Ameur, 243.

Marathonisi, Bay of, 494.

Marathusa Islands, 530.

Marbot, 210.

Marchena, 57.

Mare Creticum, 492.

Maremma di Roma, 135.

— Toscana, 135.

Marengo, 243.

Mareotis, Lake, 432.

Mareth, 391.

Margueritte, 212.

Marhoum, 201.

Maritime Alps, 112.

Marittimo, 153.

Markouna, 289.

Marmara, 535.

Marmarica, the, 415.

Marmora (island), 535.

—, Sea of, 535. xxxiv.

Marouania, 303.

Marroquí, Punta, 6.

Marsa, La, 351.

— el-Adjim, 393.

— el-Hilil, 414.

— el-Kantara, 392.

Marsála, 153.

Marsa Scala, 411.

— Scirocco, 411.

— Susa, 414.

— Ugra, 412.

Marseilles, 119.

Martianez, Barranco de, 39.

Martin, Cape, 113.

Martin, River, 102.

Mascara, 200.

Masclianae, 371.

Mascula, 273.

Másri, 411.

Massandra, 570.

Massif Kabyle, 257.

Matanza, 38.

Matapán, Cape, 493.

Matarîyeh, 459.

Matavun, 427.

Il-Maten, 252.

Mateur, 351.

Mathraki, 496.

Matifou, 248.

—, Cape, 248. 127.

Matmata-Kebira, 391.

Matshka, the, 572.

Mattosinhos, 3.

Mauretania Sitifensis, 271.

Maxula-Rades, 363.

Mazafran, 238.

Mazagan, 108.

Mazagran, 207.

Mazalquivir, 183.

Mazara, 153.

Mazari, Cabo, 123.

Mazo, 48.

Mazouna, 208.

Mazzara del Vallo, 153.

M’chounech, 284.

Mdaourouch, 314.

Méchéra-Sfa-Prévost-Paradol, 208.

Méchéria, 202.

Mechta-Châteaudun, 272.

Médéa, 215.

Medeïna, 362.

Médenine, 391.

Medina, 278.

Medinet el-Khedima, 371.

— el-Merj, 414.

Medjana, 270.

Medjerda, the, 320, 129, 313.

Medjez-Amar, 308.

— el-Bab, 328.

— -Sfa, 312.

Medracen, 274.

Megalókastron, 416.

Megalonisi (Ægean Sea), 533.

Megalo Nisi (Black Sea), 562.

Megara, 502.

—, Bay of, 159.

Mégara Iblea, 159.

Megiste, 490.

Mégrine, 363.

Mehdia, 369.

Mehdiya or Mehedia, 105.

Mekalia, 207.

Mékalis, 202.

Mékla, 261.

El-Meks, 418.

Mélaha, 411.

Mélassine, 339.

Mele, Cape, 113.

Mélika, 216.

Melila, Monte, 124.

Melilla, 124.

Melita, 398.

El-Mellaha, 199.

Mellieha Bay, 397.

Melôria, 142.

Melos, 492.

Melrir, Bassin du, 170.

Membressa, 328.

Memphis, 464.

Menara, 391.

Mendere Chai, 534.

Menelaus Island, 415.

Ménerville, 250.

Menguellet, 257.

Meninx, 393.

— (ruins), 394.

Menshia, Oasis of, 410.

Mentone, 113.

Menzaleh, Lake, 418.

Menzel, 390.

— Bou-Zelfa, 364.

— Dar el-Bouar, 366.

— Djemil, 354.

Mercedes, Las, 37.

Merdja, Le, 208.

Merj, 414.

Merja Râs ed-Dôra, 105.

— ez-Zerga, 105.

Mers el-Kébir, 183.

Mesco, Punta del, 134.

Mesembriya, 562.

Meskiana, 273.

Mesloug, 271.

Mesolóngion, 500.

Messadine, 378.

Messina, 156.

—, Straits of, 155.

Mesurata, 412.

Metade, Ribeiro da, 27.

Métameur, 391.

El-Methouia, 389.

Metlaoui, 386.

Metlineh, 132.

Mezar Burnu, 559.

Mezzouna, 383.

Mhiula, 108.

Michelet, 258.

Midoune, 394.

Midüllü, 533.

Mijas, Sierra de, 88.

Mila, 267.

Miláss, 569.

Miletus, 491.

Mileum, 268.

El-Milia, 267.

Miliana, 211.

— -Margueritte, 211.

Millésimo, 308.

Milonia, Cape, 125.

Milos, 492.

Mimas, 530.

Mina, the, 207.

—, La, 37.

—, Plaine do la, 207.

Minho, the, 3.

Minorca, 127.

Mirabeau, 253.

Miramar, 427.

Mir el-Jebel, 203.

Miseno, Cape, 135.

Misida, 403.

Misolonghi, 500.

Misrâta, 412.

Misserghin, 185.

Mitidja, the, 169, 213, 243, etc.

Mit-Rahîneh, 464.

Mitylene, 533.

Mizrana, Forêt de, 255.

Mnaidra, 403.

Mnshîa, the, 410.

Moda, Bay of, 535.

Modzbah, 201.

Mogador (Mogator), 109.

Moghrane, 359.

Moghrar, Gorges de, 203.

— -Foukâni, 203.

— -Tahtâni, 203.

Mogod Mts., 132.

Mohamédia, La, 359.

Moines, Les (Monaci), 133.

Mokattam Hills, 454.

Moknine, 369.

Mola, 158.

— di Bari, 428.

Molentargius, Stagno di, 144.

Molini, Capo, 160.

Monaco, 112.

Monastère St. Joseph, 247.

Monastir, 405.

Monchique, Serra de, 5.

Mondello, Bay of, 152.

Mondovi, 308.

Mongó, 112.

Monopoli, 428.

Monreale (Palermo), 152.

Mons Aurasius, 278.

Monserrate, Quinta de, 16.

Mons Ferratus, 258.

— Neptuni, 155.

— Ziquensis, 359.

Montagnac, 185.

Montaigne, 267.

Montalto, 155.

Montaña Bianca, 41.

Monte (Gran Canaria), 46.

— (Madeira), 24.

— Carlo, 113.

Montecristo, 144.

Montenotte, 209.

Montesquieu, 314.

Montilla, 72.

Morbêya, 108.

Mornag, Plaine du, 358.

Morocco, 93.

Morro de la Vieja, Punta, 43.

Morsott, 314.

Mórtola, Cape, 118.

Moshonisia Islands, 533.

Mostaganem, 207.

Moudjàhdine, Col des, 204.

Mouley-Ismael, Forêt de, 206.

Moulinville, 380.

Mouzaïa-les-Mines, 215.

Mouzaïaville, 213.

M’raïer, 284.

Mraïssa, 364.

M’saken, 378.

Mshátka, 569.

Msid Echta, 131.

M’Sila, 270.

—, Forêt, 185.

Msila, Plateau de, 372.

Msûn, 94.

Mtûga, 110.

El-Muallaka, 483.

Muchachos, Roque de los, 48.

Mudania, Gulf of, 535.

Muizz Canal, 439.

Muluth, the, 327.

Mulûya, 93.

Murcia, Coast of, 112.

Murro di Porco, Capo, 411.

Murustuga, 207.

Musta, 403.

Mustapha-Supérieur, 127.

Mustis, 357.

Myconius Mons, 155.

Mykale, 491.

Mykonos, 417.

Myrminghi, Cape, 530.

Mysia, 533.

Mytilini, 533.

Mzab, the, 216, 170.

Mzita, 270.

Naâma, 202.

Nâaneh, 470.

Nabeul, 365.

Nâblus or Nâbulus, 468.

Nador, 308.

— des Soumata, 213.

Nagara Kalesí (fort), 534.

Namorados, Bocca dos, 26.

Nao, Cabo de la, 112.

=Naples=, 135. Antignano, 12. Aquarium, 141. Archetiello, 1, 142. Bella Vista, 142. Cabs, 136. Cafés, 136. Camaldoli, 141. Castel Capuano, 140. Castello dell’Ovo, 138. Castel Nuovo, 138. — Sant’Elmo, 141. Churches: Cathedral, 140. San Gennaro, 140. — Giovanni a Carbonara, 140. Santa Chiara, 139. — Restituta, 140. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 141. Funiculars, 137. Galleria Umberto Primo, 138. Harbour Quarter, 138. Hotels, 135. Immacolatella Vecchia, 138. Largo della Vittoria, 141. Molo Angioino, 138. Municipio, 138. Museo Nazionale, 139. Omnibuses, 137. Palazzo Reale, 138. Piazza del Municipio, 138. — San Ferdinando, 138. Pizzofalcone, 138. Porta Capuana, 140. — San Martino, 141. Porto Mercantile, 138. — Militare, 138. Posilipo, 142. Post Office, 137. Railway Station, 135. Restaurants, 136. Rione Vómero, 141. San Martino, 141. Steamboat Agents, 137. Strada di Chiaia, 141. Teatro San Carlo, 138. Toledo, 139. Tramways, 137. Triumphal Arch, 138. Veduta Pagliana, 142. Via Roma, 139. — Tasso, 142. Villa Nazionale, 141. Zoological Station, 141.

Naples, Bay of, 135.

Naro, 363.

Nassen, 358.

Naupaktos, 501.

Naustathmus, 414.

Navarin, 272.

Naxos (island), 417.

— (Sicily), 158.

Nazareth, 468.

Nazereg, 201.

Neapolis, 365.

Nebeur, 326.

Nédroma, 198.

Neferis, 358.

Nefta, 387.

Nefza Mts., 328.

Négrine, 284.

Negro, Cape, 132.

Negron, Cape (Cabo Negro), 103.

Nemours, 198.

Neochori, 559.

Nero, Capo, 113.

Nervi, 117.

Nevada, Sierra, 49.

New Heliopolis, 459.

Nice, 112.

Nicopolis, 433.

Nieves, Pico de las, 46.

Nif Dagh, 530.

Níffe, 107.

Nikaria, 492.

Nikíta, 570.

Nikomedeia, 535.

Nile, the, 418.

Niós, 417.

Nisyros, 490.

Noé, Cape, 125.

Noir, Cape, 128.

Noli, Capo di, 113.

Notábile, 403.

Notre-Dame d’Afrique, 236.

Nouvion-Oued-Malah, 207.

Novorossysk, 570.

Numerus Syrorum, 197.

Numiulis or Numluli, 355.

Obba, 361.

Obelisco, 427.

Odessa, 564.

—, Gulf of, 564, xxxiv.

Odessos, 562.

Oëa, 407.

Œnoē, 575.

Œnussæ Insulæ (Spalmatori Islets), 493.

— Islands (off the Messenian peninsula), 493.

Oglak, 530.

Oglasa, 144.

Oglet Nakhla, 388.

Ogygia, 398.

Oia, Cape, 417.

Olgino, 568.

Olisipo, 19.

Oliviers, Col des, 212.

Olonos Mts., 500.

Olympia, 501.

Olympos, the, 535.

Oneglia, 113.

Onellana, 359.

Opčina, 427.

Oporto, 3.

Oppidum Matarense, 352.

— Novum, 210.

Oran, 175.

—, Gulf of, 126.

Ordu, 575.

Oreánda, 570.

Organos, the, 40.

Oristano, Gulf of, 129.

Orléansville, 208.

Oro, Rio del, 124.

Orotava, Puerto, 39.

—, Villa, 40.

— Valley, the, 38.

Orso, Monte, 152.

Ortakiöi, 558.

Ortygia, 163.

Ossero, Monte, 429.

Osuna, 57.

Othoní, 496.

Otranto, Straits of, 430.

Ouadhia, 258.

Ouardenine, 369.

Ouarsenis, the, 209, 169.

Ouartane, 361.

El-Oûdâghîr, 205.

El-Oudiane, 388.

Oudjda, 197.

Oudna, 358.

Oudref, 389.

El-Oued, 285.

Oued-Amizour, 252.

— -Athménia, 272.

— -Bellah, 244.

— Bou Heurtma, 327.

— -Chaffar, 383.

— -Chouk, 314.

— -Chouly, 186.

— -Damous, 314.

— -Djer, 213.

— Fergoug, Barrage de l’, 200.

— -Fodda, 209.

— -Frarah, 308.

— -Hamimin, 273.

— -Hammimine, 303.

— Hathob, 320.

— el-Kébir, the, 131.

— -el-Kheir, 207.

— -Khelloug, 207.

— -Kiss, 169.

— -Laya, 370.

— -Marsa, 266.

— -Meliz, 326.

— Mellègue, 314.

— Miliane, 320.

— -Mougras, 325.

— Rhir, the, 285.

— -Riou, 208.

— -Rouïna, 209.

— Saoura, Bassin de l’, 170.

— -Sarrath, 362.

— -Séguin, 272.

— -Sly, 208.

— -Taria, 200.

— -Tindja, 352.

— Zaïane, 251.

— -Zarga, 328.

— -Zenati, 306.

Ouled-Agla, 270.

— -Ali, Col des, 186.

— -Naïl, Monts des, 170.

— -Rahmoun, 272.

- -Slîmân, 205.

Oumache, Oase, 282.

Ounga, 383.

El-Ouricia, 269.

Ourir, 284.

El-Ourit, 196.

Ourkis, Col d’, 272.

Ourlana, 285.

Ourmes, 285.

El-Outaya, 278.

Ovidiopol, 564.

Oxia Island (Prinkipo Islands), 535.

— Islands (near Patras), 500.

Pace, 158.

Pagos, the, 532.

Pain de Sucre, 268.

Palæokastrizza, 500.

Palaeopolis, 138.

=Palermo=, 147. Argos-Eden, 152. Botanic Garden, 151. Cala, La, 147. Cappella Palatina, 149. Cássaro, 149. Castellammare, Fort, 147. Churches: Cathedral, 149. — of Monreale, 152. Martorana, La, 150. San Cataldo, 150. — Domenico, 150. Santa Maria del l’Ammiraglio, 150. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 149. Falde, 151. Flora, 151. Foro Umberto Primo, 151. Giardino Garibaldi, 149. — Inglese, 151. Grotto of St. Rosalia, 152. Marina, 151. Monreale, 152. Municipio, 150. Museo Nazionale, 150. Oratorio del Santissimo Rosario, 150. Palazzo di Città, 150. — Reale, 149. Pellegrino, Monte, 151. Piazza Giuseppe Verdi, 151. — Marina, 149. Porta Felice, 151. — Nuova, 150. Quattro Canti, 149. Rocca, La, 152. San Giovanni degli Eremiti, 150. Santa Ninfa (observatory), 150. Teatro Massimo (Vittorio Emanuele), 151. Telégrafo, 152. University, 150. Via della Libertà, 151. Via Maqueda, 149. Villa Giulia, 151.

Palermo, Bay of, 147.

Palestro, 250.

Palheiro do Ferreiro, 27.

Palinuro, Cape, 155.

Pallice, La, 2.

Palma, 47.

— del Rio, 68.

Palmaiola, 134.

Palmária, 134.

Palmarola, 133.

Palmas, Golfo di, 118.

—, Las, 44.

Palmi, 155.

Palmones, 56.

Palo, 92.

Palomas, Grotta de las, 123.

Palos, Cape, 112.

Panaghia, Cape, 416.

Panagia, 493.

Panária, 155.

Pandateria, 134.

Pan de Azúcar, 41.

Panormus, 148.

Pantano Grande, 158.

— Piccolo, 158.

Pantelëusa, 492.

Pantelleria, 154, xxx.

—, Straits of, 153, xxx.

Pantokrator, 500.

Papas, Cape, 492.

Paphlagonia, 575.

Paradiso, 158.

Parapanda, Sierra de, 73.

Parenzo (Parentium), 429.

Parga, 500.

Parnes, Mt., 494.

Parthenium (headland), 569.

Parthenope, 138.

Pasha Bagcheh, 559.

— Liman Islands, 535.

Paso, El, 48.

Páspargon, 493.

Passero, Cape, 411.

Pasteur, 275.

Patínos or Patmos, 492.

Patras, 501.

Paula, 402.

Paul da Serra, 18.

Paxos, 500.

Pêcherie, La, 352.

Pedro Gil Pass, 40.

Pegli, 117.

Pelagosa, 429.

Peleshet, 466.

Pelinnaeon, Mt., 529.

Pélissier, 207.

Péllaro, Punta di, 159.

Pellegrino, Monte, 151.

Peloritani, Monti, 155.

Pena, Castello, da, 16.

Peñaflor, 68.

Penha Verde, 16.

Pentapolis, 413.

Pentelikon, Mt., 494.

Pera, Cabo de, 127.

Per-Bastē, 439.

Perdoma, 40.

Peregil, Isla del, 123.

Pergamum, 533.

Perhapi-n-On, 443.

Périgotville, 269.

Perinthos, 535.

Peristasis, 535.

Perrégaux, 206.

—, Barrage, de, 200.

Pertusato, Cape, 133.

Pescade, Pointe, 237.

Pescaria, the, 27.

Petagne, Le, 429.

Petali, Islands, 529.

Petit, 308.

—, -Cavallo, 131.

Petite-Porte, 270.

Pezzo, Punta, 155.

Phabra, 529.

Phaleron, New, 528.

—, Old, 528.

Phasis, the, 570.

Philippeville, 304.

Phleva, 529.

Phoenicia, 469.

Phoinikusa, 146.

Phokia, (Phocæa), 530.

Pholégandros, 492.

Phorbantia, 153.

Phrygia, 535.

Phycus, 414.

Pianosa, Island (Adriatic Sea), 428.

— —, (near Elba), 143.

Pi-beseth, 439.

Picacho, de la Veleta, 77.

Pico, Fort, 23.

— Grande, the, 26.

Picón, Montaña del, 38.

Pico, Viejo, 42.

Picville, 382.

Piksit, Su, the, 572.

Pilas, Las, 42.

Pilau, 132.

Pimentel, Torre de, 89.

Pinito, Barranco del, 39.

Pinos, Puente, 73.

Piombino, 134.

Piræus, 494.

Pisan, Ile, 130.

Pitón, the, 41.

Piton, d’Akbou, 251.

Pityusa, 535.

Pizarra, 88.

Plaia, the, 144.

Planasia (Adriatic Sea), 428.

— (near Elba), 143.

Plane, Ile, 125.

Planier, 119.

Platana, 574.

Plati, 535.

Plemmyrion, 162.

Po, Delta of the, 427.

Poiras, Burnu, 560.

Pola, Bay of, 429.

Polaticum, Promontorium, 429.

Polignano a Mare, 428.

Polinos, 492.

Pomaria, 187.

Pomègue, 119.

Pomo Island, 429.

Ponente, Riviera di, 118.

Ponta tal Zonkor, 411.

Pont-de-l’Isser, 185.

— de l’Oued el-Hammam, 212.

— -de-Trajan, 327.

— -du-Caïd, 210.

— -du-Chélif, 207.

— -du-Fahs, 359.

Pontéba, 209.

Pontiae, 133.

Pontikonisi, 499.

Pontine Marshes, 135.

Pontus, 575.

— Euxinus, 561.

Ponty, Baie, 352.

Ponza, 133.

— Islands, 133.

Poros, 494.

Porquerolles, 133.

Port-aux-Poules (Great Kabylia), 253.

— — — (near Perrégaux), 199.

Porte Civili, 260.

Portella Pass, 27.

Portes-de-Fer, Les, 270.

Port Gueydon, 130.

Portillo, the, 41.

Porto, 4.

— da, Cruz, 27.

— -Farina, 354.

Portoferraio, Bay of, 134.

Portofino, Monte di, 34.

Porto Longone, 185.

— Maurizio, 113.

— Novo, 21.

— Santo, 17. 20.

Port Paphos, 490.

— Said, 436.

— -Say, 125.

Portus Divinus, 178.

— Magnus, 199.

— Menelai, 415.

Posilipo, 135.

Positano, 155.

Potinville, 364.

Pouso Saddle, 27.

Pozzuoli, Bay of, 135.

Praia Formosa, 25.

Priene, 491.

Princes Islands, 535.

Prinkipo, 535.

Prócida, 118.

Promontore, Cape, 429.

Promontorium Album, 469.

— Ampelusia, 102.

— Apollinis, 129.

— Candidum, 129.

— Cunerum, 428.

— Junonis, 58.

— Mercurii, 153.

— Pachynum, 411.

— Pelorum, 158.

— Sacrum, 5.

— Trikeron, 412.

Propontis, the, 535.

Proti, 535.

Provence, 128.

Prudon, 186.

Prugo, Sierra de, 73.

Psakon, Cape, 415.

Psara, 529.

Psiloriti, Mts., 416.

Psyra, 529.

Psyttaleia, 494.

Ptolemais (Acre), 469.

— (Barca), 414.

Puente Genil, 72.

Puercas, Las, 58.

Puerto de la Cruz, 39.

— de la Luz, 43.

— de Santa Maria, 59.

— Nuevo, Lago de, 124.

— Orotava, 39.

— Real, 59.

Puig Mayor, 112.

Puits, Le, 210.

Pupput, 365.

Pyramids of Gîzeh, 461.

— of Sakkâra, 465.

Pyrgos, 502.

Pyxites, the, 572.

Quarto, Golfo di, 144.

Quilates, Cape, 123.

Quiza, 207.

Rabaçal, 26.

Rabât, 105.

Rábato, 403.

Rachgoun, 185.

— (island), 125.

Rades, 363.

Er-Rahel, 185.

Raisi, Punta di, 152.

Rambla de Castro, 42.

Rambleta, the, 41.

Ramleh, 436.

Er-Ramleh, 470.

Ramula, 470.

Randon, 308.

Rapallo, Bay of, 134.

Râs el-Abyad, 469.

— Acrata, 237.

— Addar, 153.

— Adjir, 406.

— Adrian, 413.

— Afia, 314.

— el-Ahmar, 153.

— el-Aioun, 387.

— el-Alia, 313.

— el-Amouch, 242.

— Atia, 131.

— Bibi, 131.

— Boasa, 414.

— ed-Dabba, 415.

— ed-Dâmûr, 469.

— Dimas, 405.

— el-Djorf, 393.

— al-Dukara, 132.

— Engelah, 129.

— al-Fortas, 153.

— Frao, 131.

— el-Hamâma, 414.

— el-Hamra, 412.

— el-Hilil, 414.

— el-Hûdik, 108.

— el-Ihûdi, 412.

— Ishberdil, 102.

— el-Kala, 396.

— Kapoudia, 370.

— Khadidja, 370.

— el-Kôran, 129.

— Marmor, 392.

— Mehdia, 369.

— el-Mirh, 405.

— el-Mustapha, 405.

— en-Nâkûra, 469.

Raso, Cabo, 4.

Râs el-Oued (near Gabes), 390.

— — (Tocqueville), 271.

— el-Radjel, 328.

— er-Rumeileh, 469.

— es-Sahal, 412.

— Sem, 414.

— Sluguia, 351.

— Sotara, 412.

— et-Tabia, 412.

— Tachgagalt, 254.

— Taguermess, 406.

— Tarf, 129.

— et-Tarf, 103.

— Timedouine, 258.

— et-Tîn, 415.

Rastrojos, Los, 41.

Râs Turgoeness, 406.

— Wark, 124.

Ratonneau, 119.

Rayak, 483.

Razzoli, Isola dei, 133.

Realejo Alto, 42.

— Bajo, 42.

Redeyef, 372.

Regba, the, 325.

Reggio, 159.

Réghaïa, 249.

Relizane, 207.

Renan-Kléber, 199.

Rethymno, 416.

Retour-de-la-Chasse, 248.

Réunion, La, 252.

Reyâk, 483.

Rhar el-Maden, 125.

Rhegium, 159.

Rhithymna, 416.

Rhizūs, 571.

Rhodes, 490.

Rhodios, the, 534.

Rhone Delta, the, 119.

Rhumel, Gorges du, 301.

Ribeira Brava, 26.

— da Lapa, 25.

— dos Soccorridos, 25.

Rîf Coast, 123.

— Mts., 104. xxx.

Rimini, 427.

Rio, Ile, 132.

— Marina, 135.

Rion, the, 570.

Rio Salado, 185.

Riposto, 158.

Risco, Waterfall of the, 26.

— Verde, the, 42.

Riviera, Russian, 569.

Rivière Blanche, 278.

Rivoalto, 420.

Rizeh, 571.

Robertville, 303.

Roca, Cabo da, 4.

Rocha Alta, the, 26.

Roche, Cape, 58.

Rochelle, La, 2.

Rocher Blanc, 215.

Rockgun, Mt., 53.

Rôda (island), 461.

Roda, Cova da, 27.

—, La, 72.

Rodosto, 535.

Roja, Ravine, 113.

Roknia, Necropolis of, 307.

Roldán, Mesa de, 112.

Ronda, 56.

Rond-Point des Cèdres, 211.

Rosa, Cape, 131. 128.

Rosario, Fort, 124.

Roseville, 183.

Rouïba (near Aïn-Sefra), 203.

— (near Algiers), 249.

Roux, Cape, 131.

Rovigno, 429.

Rovigo, 248.

Ruines, Col des, 327.

— Romaines, 244.

Ruisseau, Le, 231.

Ruivo, Pico, 27.

— do Paul, Pico, 26.

Rumeli Fanar, 560.

— Hissar, 558.

— Kavak, 560.

Rusaddir, 124.

Ruscinona, 354.

Rusguniæ, 248.

Rusicade, 304.

Ruspae, 370.

Ruspina, 405.

Rusubricari, 253.

Rusuccuru, 255.

Rûta, the, 485.

Sabinal, Punta del, 112.

Sabine Mts., 135.

Sabratha, 407.

Sacratif, Cape, 112.

Saffi (or Safi), 109.

Safsaf (near Philippeville), 303.

— (near Tlemcen), 185.

— Valley, the, 186.

Sagres, 5.

Sahara, the, 410.

— Atlas, 170.

Sahel de Collo, 131.

— of Algiers, 221.

— of Susa, 366.

Saïda (Oran), 201.

Saida (Palestine), 469.

St. Aimé, 208.

— André de Mers el-Kébir, 183.

— Antoine, 306.

— Arnaud, 271.

— Canzian, 427.

— Charles, 303.

— Cloud, 199.

— — -sur-Mer, 237.

— Denis-du-Sig, 206.

— Donat, 272.

Sainte-Barbe du Tlélat, 186.

— Baume, Chaîne de la, 133.

— Clotilde, 183.

— Juliette, 380.

— Marie-du-Corso, 249.

— Monique, 344.

St. Eugène, 236.

— George, Cape, 562.

— Georges, 460.

— George’s Bay, 482.

— Jean d’Acre, 469.

— Joseph, 308.

— Julian, 397.

— Leu, 199.

— Lucien, 186.

— Maur, 184.

— Paul, 308.

— Paul’s Bay, 403.

— Raphaël, 234.

— Thomas’s Bay, 411.

— Vincent, Cape, 5.

Sakamody, 248.

Sakis Adasi, 492.

Sakkâra, 464.

Sala, 106.

Salakta, 370.

Salamandre, La, 207.

Salambo, 344.

Salamis, 494.

Salão, 26.

Saldæ, 263.

Salee or Saleh, 106.

Es-Sâlehîyeh, 489.

Salerno, Gulf of, 155.

Salina Bay, 397.

Salines, Les, 360.

Salvatore dei Greci, 158.

Salvore, 429.

Samakh, 469.

Samaria, 468.

Samos, 491.

Samothrake, 533.

Samsam, the, 213.

Samsun, 575.

— Dagh, 491.

San Andrés, 36.

— Antioco, 118.

— Calógero, Monte, 154.

— Cataldo, 430.

— Fernando, 59.

— Giorgio Maggiore, 424.

— Giovanni in Pélago, 429.

— Giuliano, Monte, 153.

Sanguinaires, Iles, 133.

San Isidro, 36.

— José, Hacienda de, 92.

— Juan de la Rambla, 42.

— Julián, Castillo de, 125.

— Lorenzo, Barranco de, 47.

— Marco, Cape, 154.

— Mateo, 46.

— Michele, Ruins of, 145.

— Pancrazio, Punta, 118.

— Pietro, 129.

— Remo, 113.

— Roque, 56.

— Salvatore, Monte, 500.

— Sebastián (fort), 58.

Sansego, 429.

San Simonito, Sierra, 123.

— Stefano (near Alexandria), 436.

— —, Cape (near Constantinople), 535.

Sansur, 406.

Santa Anna, 27.

— Brigida, 46.

— Catalina, Punta, 5.

— Croce, Capo, 159.

— Cruz (Madeira), 21.

— — (Oran), 126.

— —, Fort, 182.

— —, Montagne de, 177.

— — de la Palma, 47.

— — de Tenerife, 33.

— Fe, 73.

Sant’Alessio, 158.

Santa Luzia, Levada de, 24.

— Maria, Cabo de, 5.

— — Islands, 133.

— Maura, 500.

Sant’ Andrea, 429.

— Angelo, Monte, 155.

— —, Punta, 118.

Santa Panagia, Capo, 159.

— Teresa di Gallura, 133.

— Ursula, 38.

Sant’ Elia, Cape, 144.

San Teódoro, 499.

Sant’ Eufemia, 155.

Santi Deca, 499.

— —, Monti, 499.

— Quaranta, 496.

Santo Antonio, 25.

— — da Serra, 27.

Santorin, 417.

Santos, Barranco de, 35.

Santo Stefano (Ponza Islands), 134.

— — (near Sardinia), 133.

San Vito, Cape, 153.

Sâo Joâo da Foz, 3.

— Lourenço, Ponta de, 20.

— Martinho, 26.

Sarafant, 469.

Sarat, 414.

Sardinia, 133. 144.

Sarepta, 469.

Sarona, 468.

Saronic Gulf, 494.

Sarrâyâ, 483.

Sarýtsh, Cape, 569.

Satafis, 269.

Savona, 113.

Sbakh, Plateau des, 274.

Sbeïtla, 371.

Sbiba, 371.

Scalanova, Bay of, 491.

Scala Tyriorum, 469.

Scaletta, Capo di, 158.

— Zanclea, 158.

Scarpanto, 491.

Scheria, 497.

Schisò, 158.

Sciacca, 154.

Sciarra, 404.

Scilla, 155.

Scombraria, 125.

Scutari, 556.

Sebala, La, 353.

Sebaou, Valley, 253. 254.

Sebastopol, 568.

Sebkha Bu-Erg, 124.

— de Relizane, 208.

— de Sahline, 405.

— de Sidi Bou Chiane, 208.

— Djendeli, 274.

— d’Oran, 185.

— Halk el-Menzel, 366.

— el-Melah, 392.

— en-Nouaïl, 383.

— er-Riana, 345.

— Sidi el-Hani, 370.

Sebra, Baie de, 352.

Sebta, 103.

Sebu, the, 105.

Seddouk, 251.

Sejed, 470.

Seldja, Gorges du, 386.

Selinunte (Selinus), 154.

Selloum, 260.

Selmun, 403.

Sened, 383.

Senetosa, Cape, 133.

Sénglea, 400.

Sénia, La, 185.

Septa Emporia, 103.

Sériphos, 492.

Serpentara, 144.

Serpents, Isle of, 564.

Serra d’Agua, 26.

Serrado, Pico, 25.

Serrat, Cape, 132.

Sers, Le, 360.

Sersou, Plateaux de, 208.

Servola, 427.

Sestiaria Promontorium, 124.

Sestos, 534.

Sétif, 271.

=Seville=, 59. Alcázar, 61. Artillery Arsenal, 67. Audiencia, 65. Banks, 60. Biblioteca Colombina, 63. Bull, Ring, 60. Cabs, 60. Cafés, 59. Calle de las Sierpes, 65. Casa del Ayuntamiento, 65. — del Duque de Alba, 66. — de Pilatos, 65. — Lonja, 61. Churches: Cathedral, 63. Omnium, Sanctorum, 66. San Isidoro, 65. — Marcos, 66. — Pedro, 66. — Salvador, 65. Santa Magdalena, 66. — Marina, 66. University Church, 66. Church Festivals, 60. Consuls, 60. Convento de la Merced, 66. — de Santa Paula, 66. Custom House, 67. Feria, 60. Giralda, 62. Hospital de la Caridad, 67. Hotels, 59. Mercado, 66. Murillo, Bronze Statue of, 66. Museo, Arqueológico, 66. — de Pinturas, 66. — Provincial, 66. Palacio de Santelmo, 67. Parque María Luisa, 68. Paseo de Cristóbal Colón, 67. — de las Delicias, 67. Patio de los Naranjos, 62. Plaza de Atarazanas, 67. — de la Constitución, 65. — del Museo, 66. — del Pacífico, 66. — del Triunfo, 61. Post Office, 60. Public Gardens, 67. Railway Stations, 59. Sagrario, 65. Theatres, 60. Tobacco Factory, 68. Torre del Oro, 67. Tramways, 60. Triana, 67. University, 66.

Seybouse, the, 308. 311.

Sfa, Col de, 282.

Sfax, 380.

Sferra Cavallo, Capo, 144.

Sgrigina, 131.

Shabla, Cape, 562.

Esh-Shâm, 482.

Sharkiöi, 535.

Sharon, 468.

Shellah, 106.

Shiâdma (Shedma), 110.

Siagu, 364.

Sibillini, Monti, 428.

Sicca, Veneria, 360.

Sichem, 468.

Sicié, Cape, 132.

Sicilian Straits, 396.

Sicily, 146.

Sidd el-Bahr Kalesi, 534.

Sid-el-Kébir, 214.

Sidero, Cape, 492.

Sidi-Abdallah, Bay of, 352.

— -Ahmed, 352.

— -Aïch, 251.

— -Aïssa, 251.

— -Athman, 351.

— -Ayed, 360.

— -Bader, 325.

— Bel-Abbès, 186.

— -Bel-Hassen, Fort, 339.

— -Bou-Ali, 366.

— Bou-Médine, 194.

— Bou-Rouis, 360.

— Bou-Saïd, 351.

— el-Djoudi, 269.

— Ferruch, 237.

— Hamza, 186.

— el-Hani, 370.

— el-Hemessi, 325.

— Khalifa, 365.

— -Khelil, 285.

— -Mabrouk, 274.

— -Madani, 215.

— -Maklouf, 215.

— M’Cid, Rocher, 302.

— -Medjahed, 197.

— -Meskine, 326.

— -Mohammed-Benaouda, 208.

— -Okba, 283.

— -Rached, 285.

— -Slîmân, Forêt de, 243.

— -Yahia, Anse de, 264.

— -Zehili, 327.

Sidon, 469.

Sidra, Gulf of, 412.

Siga, Ruins of, 185.

—, the, 185.

Sigeion or Sigeum, 534.

Sighajik, Bay of, 491.

Sigli, Capo, 127.

Sigri, Cape (Sigrium Promontorium), 533.

Sigus, 272.

Sikh ou Meddour, 256.

Síkinos, 492.

Sila, 155.

Sillègue, 272.

Siloah, 480.

Silvium Promontorium, 429.

Simeto, the, 159.

Simitthu, 326.

Singes, Pic des, 264.

Sinis, 129.

Sinob, 576.

Sinonia, 133.

Sinope, 576.

Sinus Caystrius, 491.

— Elaeates, 533.

— Hermaeus, 530.

— Laconicus, 494.

Siphnos, 492.

Sipylos, Mt., 530.

Sisara Lacus, 352.

Sisargas Islands, 3.

Sis Dagh, 574.

Sitía Mts., 491.

Sitifis, 271.

Skamander, the, 534.

Skaramangá Mts., 494.

Skikda, 304.

Skira, 389.

Skyros, 536.

Slâ, 106.

Slata, 362.

Sliema, 400.

Slîten, 412.

Slouguia, 354.

Smindja, 358.

Smyrna, 530.

Sol, Ponta do, 26.

Soláro, Monte, 155.

Soliman, 364.

Soller, 112.

Solum, Gulf of, 415.

Sorrento, Peninsula of, 135.

Souf, 285.

Souk el-Abiod, 365.

— -Ahras, 313.

— el-Arba (Algeria), 258.

— — (Tunisia), 326.

— el-Djemâa, 257.

— el-Haad (near Fort National), 258.

— — (near Ménerville), 250.

— el-Khemis, 327.

— et-Tenine, 266.

Soumane Valley, the, 128.

Soummam, La, 252.

Sour Kenis Bay, 389.

Sousse, 366.

Sozopolis (near Cyrene), 414.

— (peninsula), 562.

Spada, Cape, 415.

Spadillo, 396.

Spalmatori Islets, 493.

Sparagio, Monte, 152.

Spartel, Cape, 102.

Spartivento, Cape, 118.

Spelonca di Ballon, 429.

Spezia, Gulf of, 134.

Sphinx, the, 462.

Sporades, Northern, 536.

—, Southern, 490.

Stagnone, Lo, 153.

Stambul, 540, 542.

— Boghaz, 557.

Standia, 416.

Staouéli, 237.

— -Trappe, 234.

Stavros, Cape, 416.

Stella, Monte, 155.

Stenia, 559.

Step Pyramid (Sakkâra), 465.

Stidia, La, 200.

Stoechades Insulæ, 133.

Stora, 306.

—, Gulf of, 131.

Strómboli, 155.

Strongyle, 155.

Strophades, 502.

Sua, 328.

Es-Suani, 101.

Suda Bay, 416.

Es-Sueïra, 109.

Suez Canal, 437.

Sufes, 371.

Sufetula, 371.

Sugar Loaf Hill, 53.

Suk-Su Hill, 574.

Sûk Wâdi Baradâ, 484.

Sulci, 129.

Sullectum, 370.

Sunion, Cape, 529.

Sûr, 469.

Sûs, 94.

Susa, 366.

Susra Mesrâta, 415.

Sweet Waters of Asia, 558.

— — of Europe, 556.

Sybota Islands, 500.

Sycaminum, 468.

Symbolon Portus, 569.

Symi (Syme), 490.

Symplegades, 560.

Syracuse, 162.

Syrian Desert, 485, xxxiii.

Syrias Promontorium, 576.

Syrina Group, 492.

Syrtis Major, 412.

— Minor, 405.

Tabarca, 327.

Tabarîya, 469.

Tabeditt, 372.

Tabia, 186.

Tabor, Mt., 469.

Tacape, 389.

Tacoronte, 37.

Tadergount, 268.

Tadjera, Mont, 125.

Tænaron, Cape, 493.

Taenia, the, 344.

Tafetneh, Cape, 110.

Tafira, 46.

Tafna, the, 185.

Taghia, 208.

Taghla, Col de, 204.

Tagma, Col de, 261.

Tagoje, Montaña de, 48.

Taguemoun, 258.

Tagus, the, 5.

Tajûra, 411.

Takdempt, 208.

Takembrit, 185.

Takhtaly, 530.

Takitount, 269.

Takorrabt Bou Achbatzene, 261.

Takriets or Takritz, 251.

Takrouna, 365.

Taksept, 256.

Talalati, 392.

Tala Rana, 259.

Talmetz, Col de, 261.

Tamaraceite, 47.

Tamarins, Les, 276.

Tamazaran, 207.

Tamâzirt, 257.

Tamelhat, Zaouïa of, 285.

Tamerna, 285.

Tamezred, 388.

Tamgout Haïzer, 254.

Tamyras, the, 469.

Tangier, 98.

Tanja, 99.

Tanquinhos, Pico dos, 26.

Tanta, 438.

Tantûra, 468.

Taormina, 158.

Taount, Plateau de, 198.

Taourirt-Amokran, 257.

— el-Hadjadj, 257.

— -Ighil, Chalet de, 261.

— -Mimoun, 257.

Taparura, 381.

Tarábosan, 572.

Tarf, 273.

— ech-Chena, 359.

Tarifa, 6.

Tarja, 325.

Tarkhankut, Cape, 568.

Tarla, Col de, 204.

Tarshish, 50.

Taskenfout, 258.

Tassaft ou Guemoun, 257.

Tatahouine, 391.

Tauchira, 413.

Tauric Peninsula, 568.

Tauromenium, 158.

Taurus, Lycian, 490.

Tauze, Boca de, 42.

Tavolara, 144.

Tavshan Adalar, 533.

Taya, 307.

Taygetos, Mt., 493.

Tazagraret, 125.

Tazerout, 259.

Tazmalt, 251.

Tebessa, 315.

— Khalia, 318.

Teboulba, 369.

Teboulbou, 391.

Tebourba, 329.

Teboursouk, 355.

Tedlès, Cape, 256.

Tegueste, 37.

Teide, Pico de, 41.

Tejea, Sierra, 89.

Tejeda, 46.

Tejina, 37.

Tekbalet, 185.

Tekirdagh, 535.

Telde, 47.

Télergma, Plaine de, 272.

Tell Atlas, 169, xxx.

— Basta, 439.

Telli Tabia, 560.

Tell Jezer, 470.

Telmine, 388.

Telos, 490.

Temacin, 285.

Temoulga-Vauban, 209.

Tenedos, 533.

Tenera, 48.

Teneriffe, 32.

—, Peak of, 41.

Ténès, 209.

—, Cape, 209.

Teniet el-Haâd, 210.

— et-Tine, 269.

Teno, Punta de, 47.

— Mts., 32.

Tenoya, Barranco de, 47.

Tensift, 109.

Tenzirt, 242.

Teos, 491.

Tergeste, 426.

Teror, 47.

Terracina, 135.

Terranova, Bay of, 144.

Terres Sialines, 380.

Tessan, Monte de, 124.

Testa, Capo, 133.

Testour, 354.

Tetuan, 103.

Teuchira, 413.

Teulada, Cape, 118.

Thabraca, 327.

Thacia, 357.

Thænæ, 383.

Thagaste, 313.

Thala, 362.

Thamalla, 271.

Thamuda, 103.

Thamugadi, 289.

Thapsos, 159.

Thapsus, 369.

Tharros, 129.

Tharsis, 50.

Thelepte, 371.

Theodosia, 570.

Thera, 417.

Therapia, 559.

Therasia, 492.

Thermæ Selinuntiae, 154.

Thermiá, 492.

Theveste, 315.

Thibilis, 307.

Thiers, 250.

Thiersville, 200.

Thira, 417.

Thonaire, Anse de, 153.

Thuburbo Majus, 359.

— Minus, 329.

Thuburnica, 325.

Thubursicum Bure, 355.

— Numidarum, 313.

Thubusuctu, 252.

Thuccabor, 328.

Thugga, 355.

Thunes, 332.

Thynias (island), 576.

— Promontorium, 562.

Thysdrus, 379.

Tiaret, 208.

Tiberias, 469.

Tichi, Pointe, 266.

Tichilla, 354.

Tifferdout, 259.

Tigaiga, Ladera de, 38.

Tigani, 491.

Tighanimine, Ravine of, 278.

Tiguedidin, 285.

Tigzirt, 255.

Tiklat, 252.

Tilatou, 277.

—, Gorges de, 277.

Tilghemt, 216.

Tilos, 490.

Tilrempt, 216.

Timē-en-Hor, 437.

Timgad, 289.

Timri n’Tguerfa, Pointe, 130.

Timsâh, Lake, 438.

Tingartia, 208.

Tingis, Ruins of, 101.

Tino, 134.

Tiñoso, Cabo, 112.

Tinsilt, 274.

Tiout (oasis), 202.

Tipasa (Mauretania), 239.

— (Numidia), 313.

Tipaza, 239.

Tirabson, 572.

Tireboli, 574.

Tirinadis, 215.

Tirkount, 202.

Tiroual, 258.

Tirourda, 259.

—, Col de, 260.

— Valley, 259.

Tit, 108.

Titan, Ile du, 112.

Titawân, 103.

Titteri, 215.

Tixiriden, 260.

Tixter-Tocqueville, 271.

Tizi (or Thizi), 200.

— el-Arba, 254.

— n-Assoual, 258.

— Boulma, 258.

— Guessig, 258.

— n-Kouïlal, 259.

— Koulmin, Lac de, 258.

— N’Béchar, 269.

— Oufellah, Forêt de, 261.

— -Ouzou, 254.

— Tirkabin, 259.

Tlalet, 392.

Tlemcen, 187.

—, Massif de, 187, 169.

Tléta, 253.

Tobruk, 415.

Tocina, 68.

Tocón, 72.

Tocqueville, 271.

Tokra, 413.

Tolfa Mts., 135.

Tolmeita, 413.

Tolometta, 414.

Tômât Nîhâ, 469.

Tombeau de la Chrétienne, 238.

— de la Neige, 252.

Tomi, 563.

Top Dagh, 558.

Toriñana, Cabo, 3.

Toro, Il, 118.

Torre del Faro, 158.

Torsa, Cape, 125.

Tortolì Marina, 144.

Toual el-Chridi, 382.

Touchaïd, 208.

Toudja, 262.

Toudjane, 391.

Touggourt, 285.

Toukabeur, 328.

Toukouch, Cape, 131.

Toulon, Bay of, 133.

Tozeur, 387.

Trafalgar, Cape, 58.

Tragara, Punta, 155.

Tragia, 490.

Tralimet, 197.

Trápani, 153.

Trapezus, 572.

Trappe, La, 237.

Traras Mts., 169, 198.

Trebizond, 572.

Trembles, Les (near Algiers), 248.

—, Les (near Oran), 186.

Trémiti Islands, 428.

Tres Forcas, Cape, 124.

Trieste, 425.

Triopium Promontorium, 490.

Tripoli in Barbary, 406.

Tripolis (Tireboli), 574.

Tripolitania, 407.

Troas (Troad), 533.

Trogilos, 159.

Trois-Palmiers, Les, 209.

Troodos, the, 489.

Trou du Diable, 208.

Troy, 534.

Tsarigrad, 540.

Tsor Kersa Islands, 414.

Tuat Oases, 216.

Tuileries, Les, 313.

=Tunis=, 329. Administration des Habous, 334. El-Ariana, 338. Avenue de France, 333. — de la Marine, 333. — Jules-Ferry, 333. Bab Alleoua, 339. — Djedid, 337. — el-Khadra, 339. — Sidi Abdallah, 339. — — Kassem, 339. Banks, 331. Bardo, 339. Baths, 331. Bibliothèque Française, 333. Bordj Flifel, 338. — Rabta, 338. Boulevard Bab-Benat, 337. Cafés, 330. Carriages, 330. Casino Municipal, 333. Cemeteries, 337, 338, 339. Château d’Eau, 339. Churches: Cathedral, 333. Ste. Croix, 334. Collège Alaoui, 339. — Sadiki, 337. Consulates, 331, 334. Dâr el-Bey, 336. — -Hussein, 336. Direction des Antiquités, 334. Division d’Occupation, 336. Djamâa, see Mosques. Ecole Coloniale d’Agriculture, 338. — Professionnelle Loubet, 338. Feskia, 339. Fort Sidi Bel-Hassen, 339. Hara, 337. Harbour, 333. Hospitals, 335, 338. Hotels, 329. Institut Pasteur, 338. Jardin d’Essais, 338. — du Belvédère, 338. Jewish Quarter, 337. Jules Ferry, Statue of, 333. Kasba, 336. Kassar-Saïd, 342. Manouba, La, 342. Manoubia Hill, 339. Marché, 333. Market Quarter, 337. Mélassine, 339. Mida, the, 338. Mosques: Djamâa Djedid, 336. — Sahab et-Taba, 337. — ez-Zitouna, 334. Kasba, 336. el-Ksar, 336. Sidi Ben-Arous, 336. — Mahrez, 337. — Mohammed-Bey, 337. — Youssef, 335. des Teinturiers, 336. Motor Cars, 330. Murad Bey’s Burial Chapel, 335. Musée Alaoui, 340. — Arabe, 342. — du Bardo, 340. Palace of the Beys, 340. — of the Harem (Bardo), 340. Palais de Justice, 337. — de la Résidence, 333. Pavillon de la Manouba, 338. Physicians, 331. Piccola Sicilia, 333. Place Bab-Souika, 337 — de la Bourse, 344. — de la Kasba, 336. — de la Résidence, 333. — el-Halfaouine, 337. Post Office, 330. Railway Station, 329, 333. Rebat Bab-Djazira, 337. — — -Souika, 337. Restaurants, 330. Rue de la Kasba, 334. — de l’Eglise, 334. — des Andalous, 336. — — Potiers, 337. — du Riche, 336. Souks, 335, 334, 337. Steamboat Agents, 331. Synagogues, 337. Tekia, 337. Telegraph Office, 330. Theatres, 331. Tourbet el-Bey, 336. Tramways, 330. University, 334. Zaouïa Sidi Bel-Hassen, 339. — — Mahrez, 337.

Tunis, Gulf of, 129, xxx.

—, Lac de, 129.

Tunisia, 319.

Turbie, La, 112.

Turenne, 197.

Tunis Tamaleni, 388.

Tuscan Archipelago, 143.

Tusla, Cape, 563.

Tusuros, 387.

Tûzer, 387.

Tyras, 564.

Tyre, 469.

Tyropœon, 472.

Tyrrhenian Sea, 134, xxxi.

Ucubis, 357.

Ujda, 197.

Ulisipo, 9.

Ulisse, Scoglio di, 499.

Umago, 429.

Um er-Rebîa, 108.

Unia, 575.

Unie, 429.

Üniyeh, 575.

Ushant, 2.

Ustica, 146.

Uthina, 358.

Utica, 353.

—, Bay of, 129.

Utrera, 57.

Uzalis, 370.

Uzès-le-Duc, 208.

Vacca, La, 129.

Vado, Cape, 113.

Vaga, 328.

Valée, 303.

Valencia, Bay of, 112.

Valinco, Gulf of, 133.

Valletta, 399.

Valmy, 185.

Vandama, Pico de, 46.

Vanikiöi, 558.

Varássova, 500.

Varna, 562.

Vasampus, 314.

Vathy, 491.

Vaticano, Cape, 155.

Vedrá, 112.

Vega, the, 73.

Vélez de la Gomera, Peñón de, 123.

Venere, Monte, 158.

Venice, 419.

Ventimiglia, 113.

Ventotene, 134.

Vepillium, 388.

Verde, Capo, 113.

Verecunda, 289.

Vesoul-Benian, 212.

Vesuvius, Mt., 135.

Vettore, Monte, 428.

Victor-Hugo, 185.

Victoria (Malta), 404.

Victoria (Teneriffe), 38.

Vicus Augusti, 370.

Viento, Pico del, 46.

Vierge, Ravin de la, 185.

Vieste, 428.

Vieux-Kouba, 231.

— -Ténès, 209.

Vigo, 3.

Vilaflor, 42.

Villa Baleira, 20.

Villafranca, 112.

Villano, Cabo, 3.

Villa Orotava, 40.

Villas, 237.

Villa San Giovanni, 159.

Villefranche, 112.

Vinte e Cinco Fontes, 26.

Vita, Capo della, 135.

Vitello, Il, 129.

Vittoriosa, 400.

Voïdiá, 500.

Voile Noire, 131.

Volscian Mts., 135.

Vona, Cape, 575.

Vulcano, 155.

Vurlá, Bay of, 530.

Wâd el-Ihûd, 101.

Wâdi Miserâra, 470.

— es-Sarâr, 470.

— el-Werd, 470.

— Yahfûfeh, 483.

Walediya Lake, 108.

Warân, 177.

Warnier, 209.

Washington, Monte, 102.

Xeres, 59.

Xiphonia, 159.

Yaila Mts., 568.

Yakouren, 261.

Yalta, 569.

Yamanlar Dagh, 533.

Yarmuk Valley, 469.

Yasun Burnu, 575.

Yeguas, Sierra de, 72.

Yenikale, Straits of, 570.

Yenikiöi, 559.

Yeni Mahalleh, 559.

Yenishehr, 534.

Yeshil Irmak, 575.

Yoros, Cape, 574.

— Kalesi, 560.

Youks-les-Bains, 318, 314.

Yum Burnu, 560.

Yusha Dagh, 559.

Zaatra, 253.

Zab, Monts du, 280, 170.

Zafarines, Iles, 124.

Zafran, 360.

Zaghouan, 359.

Zahleh, 483.

Zahrès Chergui, 169.

— Gharbi, 169.

Zakâzîk, 439.

Zakynthos, 502.

Zammarín, 468.

Zana, 275.

Zancle, 157.

Zannone, 133.

Zante, 502.

Zaouïet el-Arab, 388.

— Sahraoui, 387.

— Sousse, 378.

Zaregrad, Mouth of the, 564.

Zarpath, 469.

Zarytus, 353.

Zarzis, 392.

Zarzouna, 353.

Ez-Zebedâni, 484.

Zefireh Burnu, 574.

Zeitün Burnu, 562.

Zelboun, 197.

Zella (Africa), 369.

Zelythen, 412.

Zembra, 153.

Zembretta, 153.

Zenâga, 206.

—, Col de, 204.

Zephyros, Cape, 574.

Zéralda, 238.

Zerghaya, 483.

Zevgari, Cape, 490.

Ziama, 267.

Zian, 392.

Zibans, Route des, 283.

Zilis, 104.

Zita, 392.

Zizerin, Cape, 243.

Zostēr, Cape, 529.

Zouarines, Les, 361.

Zoudj-el-Beghal, 198.

Zousfana, the, 203.

Zucchabar, 211.

Zurich, 244.

Zygós, Mt., 500.

PRINTED IN GERMANY BY GRIMME & TRÖMEL, LEIPZIG.

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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. ● Used numbers for footnotes. ● Enclosed italics font in underscores. ● Enclosed bold font in =equals=.

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