The narrative of a voyage to the Swan River

Front matter

THE

NARRATIVE

OF A VOYAGE TO

Chapter 1

NARRATIVE

OF A VOYAGE TO

THE SWAN RIVER,

&c. &c. &c.

CHAPTER I.

It is not requisite to give any account of our adventurer previous to his departure from England, or to publish the letters in which he bid his relations farewel—suffice it to say he was brought up as a practical farmer, and that he felt that deep sorrow at a long, and perhaps eternal separation from his country and friends, which became one who was sincerely attached to both from principle and affection. Having taken his passage in a vessel bound for the Swan River and New South Wales, he hurried his goods on board under the assurance that the ship would leave the port of London on an appointed day, but he had the mortification of seeing her remain in dock for several weeks, while his little capital was daily decreasing from the cxpence of his remaining in town. At length, however, the vessel did sail, and shortly afterwards he wrote a hasty letter from Portsmouth, to inform his father of his prosperous voyage hitherto, and that the ship had merely touched there in its way.

Nothing further was heard from him for ten months, and then his anxious friends had the pleasure of receiving the packet of letters from which this Narrative is compiled. They were dated at Freemantle in November, 1829, and as there is a great deal for an emigrant to prepare himself for, besides what he may encounter at the place of his destination, it may neither be useless nor uninteresting to commence the Narrative from the time the ship, in which our adventurer embarked, broke ground from Portsmouth.

As the brig Dragon is sailing from hence to Ceylon, and certain there to take in a cargo direct for England, I grasp at the opportunity to inform you of my safe landing in this Colony, in the best health and spirits. In this letter I intend giving you a slight description of a sea voyage of 15,000 miles, performed in four months and four days from Portsmouth, for a sailor reckons his voyage only from the last port in the country from whence he breaks ground. In the letter I wrote from thence, I believe I stated that the ship dropped anchor the preceding evening, and that several of the passengers had accompanied me on shore for the purpose of purchasing some articles which we found we stood in need of, and for the melancholy pleasure of treading upon our native land for the last time. I had not been on shore four hours when one of the sailors came into the shop where I was and told me that the last boat would be off for the ship in a quarter of an hour, and that she would weigh anchor immediately.—We stood out to sea at one o'clock, P.M. and proceeded with a fair wind which carried us rapidly from the shores of happy England. At the end of three days, however, it blew a slight gale rather contrary to us for about a week, but still we made a little way. Afterwards the wind became favourable, and we soon got into the Bay of Biscay. This we were four days in crossing, during which I was very unwell. Hitherto we did not experience any thing of a sea, and the wind was moderate—but now the scene was changed. Sometimes we appeared to be mounted upon the top of a wave, and the next moment we were sinking gradually until we were surrounded by great waves breaking upon us. Then the vessel would seem to pause, owing to her being buried so low in the sea that you would fancy the wind could not reach her lower sails, but in an instant the waves would rise under her and then she would mount majestically, with the wind howling through the rigging—and then I felt I was at sea. It is a most grand, awful, and beautiful sight. We did not see a vessel till we arrived in the Bay. She was a large heavy ship, and seemed to labour very much, and no doubt our's did the same. When the sea became so rough, most of the passengers retired below decks, but I was determined to stay it out as long as possible, in order to prevent sea-sickness, and did for a long time, by assisting the sailors at the lower-ropes, holding the head of one of the hawsers upon deck, &c. and I found that the best method to prevent it, and by persevering and keeping up one's spirits, I am persuaded that, if it cannot be overcome, it may be greatly mitigated. There was a terrible commotion below decks—some poor little children were dreadfully sick, and half dead with fright, while their mothers were too ill to attend to them. Some of the grown-up passengers were absolutely crying with fear and agitation ; others, from the rolling of the vessel, were thrown into all positions about the decks: the captain was the only person who appeared to enjoy it—but to some of us it was no joke. At last the sight of some of my fellow passengers, who came upon deck, made me for a moment as sick as the rest. As soon as possible I went below, drank a stiff glass of brandy and water, with a little nutmeg and ginger, and felt quite revived; and thus, by perseverance and resolution, I suffered much less from sea-sickness than any other passenger throughout the voyage, though the little I felt convinces me that, to those who suffer from it in any great degree, it must be terrible indeed. Various are the methods recommended to avert or assuage it. Many have found great benefit by keeping themselves as near the centre of the vessel as possible, very frequently sipping a little neat brandy, and if possible taking a small quantity of bread or buiscuit from time to time, as the retching is felt more severely when the stomach is quite empty.

When we crossed the Bay the wind subsided into a favourable gale, at which we were very thankful, for now the water was smooth in comparison with the tremendous sea we had lately experienced. And now the passengers became more intimate with each other, and we mutually communicated our plans and intentions, and the means we possessed of carrying them into effect. And it was with no small surprise that I discovered not one passenger in ten knew any thing about farming, although they all professed their object to be the acquisition and occupation of land. Several of them resided in London and large towns all their lives, and scarcely knew wheat from barley. How these persons who have been brought up in trade are to succeed in the management of land I cannot conceive. You would be amused by the various instruments and articles they purchased at a very great expense, several of which, I am persuaded, will be totally useless to them. In one of the vessels which was to leave London after us, there was a poor fellow with a wife and several children, who left his shop, and expended part of his money very foolishly in the purchase of pointers, greyhounds, pheasants, and rabbits. His wife took out a favourite lap-dog—her husband had to pay five guineas for its passage. They will want the money they thus throw away before this day twelve months, or I am much mistaken. One adventurer has taken out a man, who has been twenty years in the marines, as his bailiff and factotum. Knowing me to be a farmer, several of the passengers are applying for my opinion and advice upon certain agricultural operations; and while I can scarcely keep my countenance at some of the questions they ask, I endeavour to give them all the information in my power, wishing to act by all as I should wish to be done by. It is to be feared that several of them will not succeed in the Colony, so you must prepare to receive dismal accounts from those who find they must work for their bread, and who, doubtless, will be imposed upon by "the knowing ones," who are already arrived.

A fatal accident occurred, which damped the spirits of us all. One of the steerage passengers went up the rigging half-drunk, and in turning round, lost his hold, and fell over-board—we had no possibility of saving him—it was a caution to the remainder of us I do assure you, and hope it had its proper effect upon those who were too careless about their souls. This unhappy event is a good lesson to those passengers who are unaccustomed to the management of a ship not to go aloft or get into the rigging, for, as in the present instance, the consequences may be fatal. Passengers have their berths assigned them, and they have the privilege of walking the deck, and with these they ought to be satisfied, and not meddle with what they have no concern. The captain has a great charge. And sailors are bound to obey the word of command immediately, and indeed the safety of the vessel may at times depend upon the instantaneous performance of a manoeuvre. Why, then, in any case should a passenger place himself where he has no right ? and still less upon the rigging, where his being in the way may be very dangerous to the ship: and if he should be so silly as to get into the shrouds, the rapidity with which a sailor goes aloft, may shake him out of them, and his life may be the forfeit of his folly. I mention all this as a caution to my brother, (who I hope will follow me); for it is a common error with many to suppose, that because they have paid their passage-money they possess a right to run all over the ship as they please, but this is by no means the case. No passenger should ever go aloft, or interfere in the least in the working of the ship, unless his assistance be requested. Some captains have much good nature, and do not take notice of these things, but the best captain is he who will, by keeping every one in his proper place, restrain him from going where he ought not, and may, perhaps, do more harm than good.

The wind now continued favourable for some time, when we came in sight of the Island of Madeira, and were very much disappointed in not having a clear view of it, owing to our not " nearing" it until the evening. Strong winds now prevailed, but fair. The ship went steadily nine miles an hour, which was considered very good sailing, for she was loaded dreadfully heavy, and therefore of course was deep in the water. We continued steadily on our course until we reached the Tropic of Cancer, where we were becalmed six days: the wind at last sprung up, and carried us favourably to Mayo, one of the Cape de Verde Islands, where we put in, to replenish our watercasks. The fresh water in the Island was tolerably good, but we thought proper to use it all before the Thames water we had left on board, which continued good to the last. A small American brig was laying here, waiting for a cargo of salt, with which this island abounds, and is shipped from hence to all parts of the world : there is no other article of commerce or produce, for the inhabitants procure all the supplies they want from St. Jago, the chief of the Cape de Verdes. It is inhabited principally by the Portuguese, and the natives are numerous, but very indolent and greatly addicted to pilfering; the former are clean in their habits, subtle, jealous, and passionate. The natives are tall and stout made, with swarthy complexions, round heads, blunt noses ; the males go almost entirely naked, but the women wear only one garment made of a very thin muslin, and some wear a turban round their heads made of the same light material. They apparently perform all the most laborious work, not only about their dwellings, but even at the salt-ponds, while their lazy husbands look on and nurse the children. We remained only three days at this place, and then proceeded with a fair wind until we reached the Line, where we were becalmed for six days. On crossing the Line the sailors made each cuddy passenger pay ten shillings, and each steerager a bottle of rum. We found it dreadfully hot between the Tropics, and here, for the first time, saw a great quantity of flying fish, to me quite a novelty. Some of the strong ones will fly nearly 100 yards at a flight, and that (it is said) when they are pursued by large fish of prey. We proceeded for a fortnight, and only saw one shark and some whales, together with some other large fish; no one on board knew what they were. Then there was a dead calm for ten days, and an uproar between some of the steerage passengers and sailors. Two of the former were put in irons for insolence to the captain and ill-behaviour to the sailors: they were thus confined for forty-eight hours. If my brother follows me, he cannot be too strongly reminded that it is very improper for any passenger to interfere with the sailors; let him be civil to them at all times when obliged to speak to them, but to avoid associating or entering into friendly conversation with them, especially when they are upon duty. In every ship there are some persons of evil principles, some who are ill-natured and eager to take offence, and therefore I recommend him not to be irritable or ready to quarrel about trifles; but, at the same time, while he is courteous to all, to avoid an intimacy or too much familiarity with any one, much less with the sailors.

The wind afterwards got up, blew hard, and quite a-head, and so continued for several days, which drove us within two days sail of Rio Janeiro. The cabin passengers tried their utmost to prevail upon the captain to put in at that place, but all to no purpose.

The wind now became favourable, and so continued until we came within the latitude of the Cape of Good Hope. Here we saw a brig—spoke to her—found she was bound to Ceylon from North America. We met with good weather in rounding the Cape, but afterwards it began to rain, and blew tremendously for a fortnight; and part of this time we were all battened below decks: this was a misery felt severely by me: we were indeed permitted to have lights, but were obliged to buy them. The wind shifted and became less boisterous, and we saw several whales and other large fish. The captain harpooned a dolphin, which, though by no means a large one, astonished us by the strength it had in its tail when hauled upon deck. We all partook of it, and I cannot help remarking that it was the first and last treat the steerage passengers received from the captain during the voyage. We made St. Paul's in due course: it is a little rocky barren island, about midway from the Cape of Good Hope and Swan River; it is said to be uninhabited—its shores abound with several sorts of fish. At this time several of the passengers, including myself, were much afflicted with the scurvy, which I attribute, in a great degree, to the stoppage of our allowance of vinegar, tea, currants, &c. We proceeded rapidly for a week, and were again becalmed for three days. Here we saw a great many whales. The wind at last sprung up, and now the captain expressed his persuasion that we were drawing near to Rottenest Island, and this intelligence inspired every one with joy and hope. The following day a sailor cried out the long wished-for and glad tidings of "Land a-head." All ran upon deck, anxious to behold "terra firma" once more. But it could not be seen from the deck for some time in consequence of the land being low. At last it became visible to all. We were overjoyed at the sight, made it, and found it to be "Rottenest," which is a rocky barren island, difficult of access on account of a heavy surf. It looks, however, very well at first as an island, having plenty of trees upon it; but on coming close in, we saw nothing but coarse timber of inferior quality. It abounds with kangaroos, kangaroo rats, and birds of all descriptions. We dropped anchor here (for the night), the second time only since we left Portsmouth; and weighed early the next morning with the coast of Western Australia in view, and standing for Gage's Roads, (which is the harbour at the entrance of the Swan River,) with colours flying, and firing a gun for a pilot every ten minutes. Here with a glass we perceived three sail at anchor. A pilot soon came on board, and after the first salutation and enquiries, he told us of the wreck of the Marquis of Anglesea in a storm on this coast, bound from London with settlers to this Colony, Most providentially all lives were saved, as was the principal part of the cargo. We at length perceived her as we went along laying under some high cliffs, about 300 yards from the entrance of the Swan River. We were indeed most thankful that we had escaped this storm, otherwise there is every reason to expect we could not have weathered it. Before the Marquis of Anglesea was wrecked, the gale had been so violent, that the Calista, which came out at the same time with the Parmelia, in which the governor was passenger, actually dragged three anchors after her; and if the storm had not most providentially abated, she must inevitably have been wrecked. The Parmelia, in which the governor was, grounded twice; and if it had not been for the most admirable seamanship in navigating her, she must have gone to the bottom. There were many thousand bricks in the Marquis of Anglesea, which could not be got out. This was a great loss to the early settlers, if it were only on account of having nothing at hand wherewith to build fire-places. But the Colony has suffered greatly in the estimation of the public, who, in consequence of this storm and wreck, are led to consider the harbour totally unsafe for any vessel to ride in. I fervently hope, however, that they will soon be convinced of their error, and that the industry of the inhabitants will bring the Colony into good repute. But to return—we dropped anchor, for the last time, within two miles and a half of the mouth of Swan River, in company with three other vessels; two of them had put in here for water. The other a brig from Hobart Town, with settlers. Here, I am sorry to say, the water is very indifferent, and thus continues until you reach Perth, where it is good. If wells, however, were sunk further in the interior, and at a greater depth, the water would, probably, be found of a much better quality; but at present, and for some time, there will neither be leisure nor hands for making experiments. The wood near the shore, and for several miles up the River, is worth but little, being short and crooked, and thus unfit for building; but the further you proceed up the country, so much the better is the timber in quality.

Chapter 2

CHAPTER II.

It is not for me, who know so little of navigation, to give you an account of the harbour in which we anchored. I shall merely state, that "Gage's Roads" run from Cockburn Sound to the bar of the Swan River, where it empties itself into the sea. This bar is very visible above the surface at low water; and when the tide is full, there is not more than five feet water upon it. The country, as you approach it, is beautiful; but when you land, the variegated appearance it had at a distance is so far dispersed, that it does not look like the same place. There are certain months in the year, when, from the violence of the prevailing winds on the coast, no ship can enter these Roads: at present these are to be ascertained, but time and observation will soon teach us for what period the winds render the harbour inaccessible and unsafe.

It was on the —— of October we dropped anchor in Gage's Roads, when all the steerage passengers were ordered to prepare to go on shore. This sudden and unexpected order caused great confusion throughout the ship. Fortunately I got permission for my goods to remain on board until I could get a small soldier's tent (which I purchased during my short stay at Portsmouth) erected upon the beach. The ship's long boat and skiff were now hauled along side, to land all "steerage pigs" and "Israelites," as the Captain and cuddy passengers were pleased to denominate us during the voyage. The ensuing morning, I erected my tent about 500 yards from the beach, upon a hot, burning sand, which extends all along the coast; and, as all my goods were landed the next day, I was obliged to look out for assistance to help me to drag them from the beach to my castle. I naturally applied to some of my fellow passengers, but most of them were so dejected at not finding themselves upon the richest country in the world, that they seemed to require consolation and advice to go up the river and look about them, rather than afford any assistance to those who kept up their spirits, and resolved to "put their shoulder to the wheel:" others of them had become fine gentlemen. They landed (two days before) as "independent settlers"—in a small way. So I was obliged to hire a man, and give him 8s. for helping me to remove my packages to their temporary destination. This was not an extraordinary price in this young colony, where the wages of a labourer are very high; for unfortunately very few labouring persons have been brought out, even by those whose means would have enabled them to do so. A carpenter is paid here 7s. or 8s. a day, besides an allowance of rum, and a common workman 5s. or 6s.; and these prices will doubtless continue for some time, unless a greater number of the lower orders are sent out. Having pitched my tent, and stowed my goods and chattels in safety, I waited upon the Governor, who received me with great affability. I took that opportunity of presenting him with the letter of introduction and the testimonials, which the kindness of my friends enabled me to produce. His Excellency appeared pleased with them, and did me the honor to ask me to stay and drink tea, at which I saw Mrs. Stirling, whose freedom from pride and lady-like manners formed a pleasing contrast to the bridling and haughtiness of some halfbred persons whom I remember at home. It is said that the Governor is hasty, but is soon appeased, and is ready to forgive a slight offence. Indeed he has already met with many trials of his temper, from the consequential airs of some of the settlers, who seem to forget that he is not their servant, but their King's representative. Several persons have arrived here from Sydney and Hobart Town, who have met with great disappointments in their various hopes and speculations, owing to the place not having been accurately surveyed, (for which there has scarcely been time) and trusting entirely to the reports they received from London and elsewhere, many of which were ridiculous and unfounded in the extreme. Some of these, being dissatisfied at not finding and having every thing they wished for and expected, have returned to their former stations, where no doubt they will circulate a dismal tale respecting the Colony. But I hope, and indeed have no doubt, that those who remain will reap the benefit of their constancy and resolution.

The Governor's kindness to me I shall ever remember with gratitude, and, I hope, continue to deserve his good opinion. He was so good as to say, that if I met with any difficulty I might apply to him, for which I returned my warmest acknowledgments, and took the liberty of enquiring where I could obtain dry stowage for my goods? He replied that, although the wreck of the Marquis of Anglesea was taken up as a storehouse, she was already so full, that he had many things exposed to the open air, very much against his inclination.

Since that interview, I had not for some time the pleasure of seeing him, as he was laid up with severe illness, having taken a violent cold in consequence of getting into the water, while upon an exploring party, in a state of excessive perspiration—to the great joy of the settlers, he is now much better.

Every article of my property was thus unavoidably exposed to the open air. A few days afterwards, we were visited with a tremendous storm of thunder and lightning, accompanied with heavy rain: it lasted so long, and was so violent, that it came through my tent in spouts. I was obliged to bolt out, and placed myself behind a boarded house, (the leeward side of it you may be sure) with my rough fearnought coat on, where I remained more than two hours. As soon as the storm abated, I returned to my tent, and found every thing in a pretty predicament. On the next day, I began to overhaul and ransack my packages; and found, to my great mortification and dismay, that every thing had taken damage, more or less, at sea, as well as from the rain here, excepting a case of saws, the hair trunk, a portmanteau, and the box which contained my books, these sustained no injury; but the valuable fowling-piece, which so generously gave me, was as rusty as old iron, though it was enclosed in two cases. The linen, also, which I did not require during my voyage, and, consequently, had stowed in the hold of the ship, was quite mouldy: but this, perhaps, was occasioned by my not considering that it ought to have been thoroughly dried before it was packed up.

I was agreeably surprized to find an abundance of live stock of every description, which shows that Government had paid particular attention in providing for the wants and accommodation of the settlers, by ensuring the necessary supplies from the Cape, Sydney, and Van Dieman's Land. Cattle are by no means so dear as was generally expected. Unfortunately for the colony, the sheep which came from Van Dieman's Land are now suffering severely with the "scab," which is raging among some flocks with all its fury. Therefore, if my brother comes out, let him by all means bring a considerable quantity of that ointment which we found so efficacious at home. Various are the trials made by the different settlers to get rid of it, but all without success, for they have not " hit the right nail upon the head." Fish is caught here in great plenty—they use a large net of nearly 100 yards in length, and this they draw across the river, and take a large quantity at a haul; you may purchase a great lot of them for a shilling. We have a variety of birds, and some kinds are very numerous, such as the pelican, parrot, cockatoo, the black swan, and the wild duck, which is a great delicacy. But both ducks and swans are shy, and it is difficult to shoot them without a long duck gun, or a rifle, with which a good marksman may have plenty of sport.

Freemantle, which is to be a trading town, is situated at the mouth of the Swan. This and Perth are the only towns which are established at present. Perth, which is about 13 miles up the river, where the good land commences, is now the seat of Government. For Captain Stirling has taken up his quarters there, as the situation is more central and convenient than it would have been on the sea-shore at Freemantle, He wished at first to establish the temporary seat of Government at Garden Island, which, if it had been practicable, would have been very advantageous; but the soil of this island is a dry white sand, which will not apparently make any return for the labour of the husbandman upon it. I have burnt some fragments of the rocks which abound in it, in the hope that they would make time, but they would not slack; and the stone is as unfit for walls as for lime, for when exposed to the air, it corrodes and crumbles. Here it was that the settlers landed who came out in the Parmelia, Calista, and Marquis of Anglesea, but, after a sojourn of twelve weeks, in fruitless labour and expence, they were obliged to remove to the main land ; and hence it was that we found every thing in such a state of confusion upon our arrival at Freemantle.

I can safely assure you that the soil, both on the Swan and Canning Rivers, is excellent, to a certain extent from their banks inwards, and, in my opinion, (if the climate be as suitable as it appears) is capable of producing abundant crops under proper cultivation. As yet, there has not been time for the settlers to raise a crop from any but garden seeds (but these, when sown, appear very nourishing): it is impossible at present to say with certainty what will agree best with the soil; but if we judge from the appearance of the land, we may be assured there are very few articles cultivated by man which will not thrive in this Colony, though several years must pass away before we can ascertain what will best succeed in the soil and climate. I must, however reluctantly, pronounce Mr. Frazer's report to be erroneous—when he mentions only two trees to the acre, he ought to have known, that if he said 200 he would have been nearer the mark and more correct. There are certainly some places bare of timber, and some boggy and marshy ground, but these are not of great extent. On the edge of the rivers, where we find the land to be of the best quality, there are not many trees; but, at half a mile inwards, we have forests of immense trees of various descriptions, among which I mention the gumtree and the cedar. Several experienced persons are persuaded that the bark of some of these trees would be as useful as oak-bark in tanning leather.