Marvels of the new West. A vivid portrayal of the stupendous marvels in the vast wonderland west of the Missouri river ...

Front matter

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Book

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Introduction

PAGB

The New West, where and what is it ? Marvellous Boundaries ; Great Things attempted ; Capacity for Population ; Average Moral Character; No "Far West" now; Eastern Errors about Western Life; Design of this Book ; Next to Seeing ; " Wonderland " ; Testimony of Others ; Marvels only xxvii

I. Marvels Of Nature

Rocky Mountain Scenery; Testimony of Bayard Taylor and William A.

Baillie-Grohman 3

CANONS.

The Arkansas Canon : Description and Royal Gorge ; Visit by Tourists . 5

Thk Black Canon : Its Character ; Curricauti's Needle ; Gateway to Price

River Canon 6

PLATTii Canon: Grandeur; Crookedness; Wonderful Rocks; a Tourist's

Description 10

Boulder Canon : How to enter it ; Dome Rock 11

Clear Creek Canon: Entrance and Course; Henry James" Description; Sculpture by Wind and Water ; The Double Head ; Wagon Road ; Old Man of the Mountains; View from Gray's Peak and James' Description;

The Holy Cross Mountain 12

Williams' Canon : Its Location ; Rainbow Falls ; Devil's Gate : Remarkal)le Cave: More Remarkable Rock-Formations; Dr. Taylor's Description: UtePass; Manitou ; Railway up Pike's Peak 17

Chkvenxe Canox : Where ; The Seven Falls : Words of a Visitor ... 26 Echo Canon: Grand Scenery; Nature's Pulpit; Description by Another;

Hanging Rock: Devil's Slide: Pulpit Rock 26

American Fork Canon: Picturesque and Grand ; HippoiJotamus Rock . . 31 iv CONTENTS.

PAGE

Grand Canon of the Colorado : Grandest of All ; explored by United States Government; White and Strobe Walls 6,200 Feet High; Permian Butte; PinkClifts; Domes and Towers ; Vishnu's Temple ... 34 Marble Canon : Belongs to Grand Canon ; Button's Description .... 44

Kanab Canon : Belongs to Grand Canon : What Button says 46

Land of thk Standing Rocks: Very Wonderful ; Faithful Representation, 48

Albiquii Peak : In New Mexico ; What Captain Macomb says of it . . . 48 Casa Colorado Butte: In New Mexico; examined and described by

Macomb 50

Forest of (jOTHk: Spikes: Remarkable Spectacle : as seen by Macomb . 51

The Needles : Graphic Description 52

Cabazon: Its Surroundings ; 1,500 Feet High 53

Painted Columns 54

Sandstone Formations: In Arizona; Description of them by Cozzens . . 56 City of Enchantment : View by Morning Light ; Mr. Cozzen's Vivid Description ; Testimony of Eye-Witnesses 56

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.

History of its Exploration ; "Wonderland" 59

The Mammoth Hot Springs : What they are ; described by Mr. W' isner . 60 Great Falls of the Yellowstone : Its Location ; Falls 3,000 Feet ; Grand

Scenery ; Statement by Gannett 63

Grand Canon of the Yellowstone : Magnificent Scene ; described by

Dr. Wayland Hoyt , 65

Obsidian Cliffs: What are they? described by Wisner 68

Tower Falls : Surrounding Scene ; W' ords of the Superintendent and Lieutenant Doane 70

Kepler's Cascades : Beautiful ; described by Wisner . 72

Palace Butte: An Imposing Natural Structure 72

GEYSERS.

Upper Geyser Basin 72

Old Faithful : Described by Lieutenant Doane, of the United States

Survey, and Dr. Hayden 75

Bee Hive: Whence its Name; described by Two Members of the United

States Survey 77

The Giantess: A Mighty Spouter; Mr. Langford's Testimony .... 77 Fan Geyser : Whence its Name ; What Lieutenant Doane and Dr. Hayden

say: Table of Geysers; Remarks of a Tourist about Geyser Basin and

Yellowstone Park So

CONTENTS.

YOSEMITE VALLEY.

PAGE

Location and History 82

Cathedral Rock : Its Height ; What a Traveller says 83

El Capitan : Grand beyond Description ; Words of an Eye-Witness ... 85

Bkidal Veil Fall : Beautiful ; described by Bentley 87

YosE.Mi'ji-: Falls: Compared with Niagara ; Bentley's Description . ... 89 Nevada Fall: Its.J^lunge; described by Bentley : Liberty Cap .... 90 Se.ntlnel Rock: Like Obelisk; Formation described by Ludlow .... 91 Tin; Bio Trees: Section of Big Tree; Table of Calaveras trees: Stage driven through Hole in a Tree ; Racy Account from the New West ; Pioneer Cabin ; Professor Whitney's Catalogue of Trees and Measurement . 93

GARDEN (JE THE GODS.

Where situated 98

The Gateway: Described; Testimony of a Traveller 99

Bear and Seal : Soldier near by, and Rocky Monster 99

The Grandmother: Words of Dr. Mary E. Blake; Words of Another . 100 Balance Rock: Description ; Profile on it; Words of Dr. B. F. Taylor . . 102 Natural Window : Action of Water in creating these Marvels, by Professor Edwards 104

Cathedral Spires: Remarks; Words of Fossett 106

MONUMENT PARK.

Its Location 106

Gkoui' of Monuments: Opinion of Geologists ; a Curious Incident ; a Traveller's Testimony 108

The Sentinel: Why so named 109

The Duchess: Greatest Marvel; No Exaggeration no

MISCELLANEOUS.

Shoshone Falls : Where ; a Traveller's Description no

San Pedro's Wife: Near San Francisco ; a Lighthouse 113

Do.nner Lake: Its Beauty and Name 113

Multnomah Falls: Its Plunge ; Descrii)tion 115

Pillars ok Hercules: What a Writer says 115

Pyramid Park : Remarks by Professor Denton : Words of Another ; the

Cathedral 118

Buttes near Green River Citv: Remarkable Exhibition 118 vi CONTENTS.

PAGE

Palisades of Wagon Wheel Gap : Where ; Story of the Place ; Magnificent Heights 1 20

Castellated Rocks: In Wyoming; Extent and Grandeur ...... 123

Rhoda's Arch 123

Grand Coulee — Imposing Spectacle 123

Valley of the Laughing Waters: In l' tab ; compared with Yosemite

Valley 125

Church, Castle and Fortress: In Montana; Rare Specimen of Nature's

Handiwork 125

Indian Rock: In Columbia River ; Superstition of the Indians 127

The Old Woman of the Mountain : In Montana ; the Region round

about it 127

Remarks on Natural Walls 128

Natural Flagstones, etc 129

Fishing on the Mountains: Over 11,000 Feet above the Sea; Bierstadt's

Subject; how reached 130

Petrified Forest : In Arizona; Graphic Description by Mr. Cozzens . . 131

Summit of Italian Mountain 133

Arizona Cacti described ; What Captain Dutton says 133

II. Marvels Of Race

The New West Oldest 135

The Spaniards possessed the Land 136

Discovery of an Ancient Race 137

CAVE-DWELLERS.

Description of their Houses 137

Age and Origin 138

Cave-dwellers on McKlmo 139

A Cave-Town restored 140

The Casa Griuuic, Ancient and Grand 141

Race in the Gila Valley 143

Found in New Mexico 144

In Canon de Chaco 144

In the Rio Mancos 146

CONTENTS. vii CLIFF-DWELLERS.

PAGE

Their Dwellings described by Holmes 146

Dwellings in Rio San Juan, described by Jackson 150

Estiifas. — Traces of Religious Rites 154

Holmes on Ruins of Southwestern Colorado 155

Heights almost Inaccessible 157

In Labyrinth Caiion, and Remarks of Crofutt 158

Jackson's Discoveries in New Mexico 161

Explanation by Abbd Dominech 163

Picture-Writing on Walls 165

Explanation by Holmes 167

Ancient Pottery 16S

Remains of Human Beings 171

The Guide's Legendary Tale i7i

PUEBLOS.

What?— Their History 172

Description of a Pueblo, or Town 173

Professor Zahm's Observation 177

The Race at Sante Fe 179

Three Civilizations 180

Mrs. Wallace's Observation and Description 182

Implements and Customs Like those of Palestine 183

Acoma and its Inhabitants 184

Pecos and its People 186

ZUNIS.

Frank D. Cushing among them 187

Zuni Town : Location and Description 188

Cushing's Entrance into the Town 190

Altars and Incantation Scene 193

Industrious and Intelligent 193

Thirteen Orders of Society 195

Making a Zuiii of Mr. Cushing 196

Hospitable and Truthful, Dress, Antiquity 199

Their Traditions • 200

Palestine Customs here 200

Cushing's Description of a Festival 201

MOQUIS.

Like the Zunis, yet Different 206

Descripdon of them at Home 207

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CONTENTS.

PAGE

Living on nearly Inaccessible Heights 208

Cozzen's Visit and Personal Observations 208

MEXICANS.

Like the Pueblos . 210

Some of their Habits and Customs 211

How they till the Soil 211

Mexican Women 214

The Dance and Funeral 215

Penitenties 215

Every-day Life 216

Art of making Pottery 219

III. Marvels Of Enterprise

" Great American Desert " and its Perils 220

Fremont raising Flag on Rocky Mountains 224

History of Fremont's Hardships , 225

Rush to California in 1848 232

Gold-Seeking in Colorado in 1858 233

Reign of Terror among Settlers 238

Colonel Chivington's Battle with Red Men 240

A Pioneer Woman's Hardship 246

The Indian and Buffalo disappearing 253

Stage Line across the Plains 256

Progress in carrying Mails 259

The Pony Express 261

Growth of Business 264

Railroad across the Continent 266

First and Last Depot 269

What Indians thought of Railroads 271

Ten Miles built in One Day 273

United States Government vindicated 274

Growth of Population 276

RAILROADS OVER MOUNTAINS.

Through the Royal Gorge 278

Over Marshall Pass 280

Trip through Platte Canon 283

CONTENTS.

IX

PAGE

Heavy Work and Timber Line 285

Through Challi Creek Canon and Alpine Tunnel 287

Around the Palisades 291

The Runaway Train 293

Snowbound and Snow-Sheds 296

Over Veta Pass with its Wonders 300

Crossing Sangre de Christo Range and Whiplash Railway 301

Through Toltec Tunnel 305

The (jarfield Monument 308

Dogtown and Beavertown 309

Through Animas Canon 312

The Switchback and Loop 314

Over the Raton Mountains 317

The Loop at Tehachapi Pass 317

Rounding Cape Horn 318

American River Canon and the Calumet Railroad 320

Railway Hospitals 323

Missouri River and Marant (kilch Railroad Bridge 324

Mammoth Ferry-Boat 327

PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

Omaha, Nebraska : Buildings show Enterprise ; School-House ; Court-

House 329

Portland, Oregon : View of it, and Business ; High School ; Newspapers ;

Business Block ; Contrast ; State-House ; Insane Asylum 332

Tacoma, W. T. : Thrift ; Hotel; Business Blocks ; House of Worship: Seminary ; School-House -iiyi

Butte City, Montana: Business Boom; View of City; Court-House;

Churches; Schools; Helena 341

Idaho : Origin of Name ; View of 15oise City ; Capitol Square 345

Cheyenne, Wyoming : Early History ; School-House 350

First and Last Capitol of Kansas 35 1

Gunnison City, Colorado : Magic Growth : Costly Hotel 35 1

Denver, Colorado : Desert and Garden ; Growth and Business ; Union Depot; First and Last Capitol; Tabor Opera House; Windsor Hotel; Superior Public Schools; Dr. Philbrick's Testimony; High School Building; Libraries; Private Schools ; Churches 355

GROWTH OF COLONIES.

Greeley, Colorado : Its History, by Cameron ; Foundation Principles ; High School: First Place of Worship ; First and Last Hotel : Business Blocks

.- CONTENTS.

PAGE

and Business; Anti-Saloon iMeasure ; Life of Meeker; Capture of Mrs.

Meeker and Daughter Z^l

Colorado Springs : The Antlers ; Location and Description of the Town ;

College 389

THE PACIFIC SLOPE.

San Francisco, California : Gold and Business ; Progress of the City ; State Capitol ; City Hall ; Palace Hotel ; Lick Observatory ; Palatial Residences ; Remarkable Health Resorts ; a Hundred Years from Now ... 391

THE MORMON SETTLEMENT.

Great Business Enterprise ; Description of Salt Lake City ; Thrift in Agri^

culture 404

RAILROAD KINGS.

Brief Biographies: Oakes Ames; Oliver Ames; C. P. Huntington;

Charles Crocker; Leland Stanford; Sidney Dillon; David H. Moffat, 406

IV. Marvels Of Mining

Discovery of Gold by Marshall in 1848 429

Captain Sutter and the End 43°

Richness of the Mines 43'

Remarkable Increase of Population 433

Immense Fortunes realized 435

Industrial Mining Exposition 43^

The Prospector 43^

Intelligence and Tact Indispensable 44°

Stumbling upon Mines 44^

Placer Mining 446

Gulch Mining 449

Hydraulic Mining 449

Lode Mining 45°

Drift Mining 45 1

Going into a Mine • 453

Weights, Values, and Measurements 45^

Reduction of Ores: Stamp Mill; Quartz Mill 459

Smelting 462

CONTENTS. xi

PAGE

Leadville: Its Sudden Growth. — Location. — Hotel. — Art Palace. — Appearance of City. — Business. — Schools and School-Houses. — Its Bullion Output. — Origin of the Gold-Find. — Bonanza Mines. — Mines

Inexhaustible 463

Profits of Mining 47^

Leading Mines of Colorado 479

The Mariposa Estate • 480

The Mother Lode 483

Richest Mines in California 484

Nuggets 487

Arizona: Silver-Bearing. — Apaches hinder. — Great Mines 490

Dakota, and its Richest Mines 493

Idaho and its Wealthy Mines 494

Montana, and its Wonderful Bullion Product 49^

Nevada: Its Harvest of Silver. — The Famous Comstock Lode, and its

Fabulous Yield 5°°

New Mexico : Present Mining Output and Future Promise 503

Utah : Wealth of its Gold and Silver Mines. — Rich Iron Mines .... 506

Wyoming: Gold. — Copper. — Coal 5^9

Oregon and Washington : Estimate of the Director of the United States

Mint 511

Product of Precious Metals in the New West 512

Will the Mines fail? SU

Additional Facts and Statistics 514

Gems 520

Morals of Mining Camps 5-°

Mining Kings: Horace A. W. Tabor, John L. Routt. John P. Jones, James

V. Marvels Of Stock-raising

Paradise of Stock-Raisers: Immense Herds of the New West. — Acres of

Grazing Lands. — How it was from 1850-70 535

What Cattle eat : Description of the Grasses 538

The Cattle Ranch: How to get one. — Cattle on the Range. — The

Stockman on Duty 54 1

Profits of Stock-Raising : Estimate by Dakota Editor. — Hayes. — Fosset. — One Cow's Family. — Estimate by Clark and Ulm. ^ Whigham. — Other Estimates and Facts. — A Scotchman's Estimate. — Dressed Beet, 547 xu

CONTENTS.

PAGE

The Cowboy : Not understood. — His Defence by the Oregon Editor. —

An Incident 561

The Round-up: What it is, and where. — Citizen joining the Round-up. — Description by a Kansas Ranchman. — Perils of the Round-up. — Description of Horses used. — Cattle-Brands. — "Cutting Out." — Branding Calves. — Beef Round-up. — Driving Cattle to Railroad. — " Blabbing Calves." — The Chicago Stockyards. — Cattle in Extreme Cold. — The Enemies of Cattle and Horses. — The Herd and Prairie Fire .... 568

The Sheep Ranch: Extent of the Business. — Estimate of Profits by Hayes. — By Idaho Official. — By Fossett. — In Montana. — In Kansas. — Other Facts. — Breeds. — Shearing. — Sheep on Union Pacific Railroad. — Life on Sheep Ranch. — Incidents on a Ranch. — Latest Sheep Rack. — Sheep thrive in all lands 594

A Woman on a Cattle Ranch 608

Cattle Kings: John H. Iliff, Jared L. Brush, Charles Lux, R. G. Head,

Thomas H. Lawrence, John W. Snyder, John T. Lytle 616

VI. Marvels Of Agriculture

The Facts too Large for Belief 628

Now, the Facts not Large enough 630

Current Reports from Journals of the Day 631

Methods of Agriculture: How a Farm of 30,000 Acres is plowed. — Steam-Plowing. — History of Wheat-Harvesting. — Seeding Wheat. — Wonders of Harvesting. — Words of Another. — Threshing by Steam. — Wheat and Blizzards. — Real Facts about Land " Unfit for Cultivation " . 637 Kansas: The Hub. — The Geographical Centre. — "Corn is King." — Sound Corn. — Facts about Wheat. — The Status of Oats and Other Products.

— Income and Value of Farms. — The Floral Wealth of Kansas. — Broom Corn. — Tree-Planting 649

Nebraska: Originates "Arbor Day." — Generous Laws. — Her Example

Contagious. — United States Government Aids 658

Railroad Companies planting Trees 659

Montana: Pioneer Farmers and their Success. — What Agricultural Bureau

.says. — Strahom on Montana, with Figures that won't lie 662

Dakota : An Empire. — Exhibit at New Orleans. — Words of E. V. Smalley.

— A Great Wheat Farm. — The Dalrymple Farm of 75.000 Acres. — Amusing and Instructive Letter. — A Stubborn Fact 671

CONTENTS. xiii

I'ACR

Idaho: Its Great Resources. — How 300,000 Acres are opened to Settlers.

— Testimony of Two Eye-Witnesses 678

California : The Cornucopia of the World. — Its Two Seasons. — Remarkable Crowths. — ^ Words of Nordhoff. — Hop-Raising. — Raisin-Making.

— Wine-Making. — Orange Culture. — Alfalfa. — Miscellaneous Facts . 682 Colorado: Its Agricultural Domain. — Marvellous Parks. — Testimony of

Farmers in San Luis Park. — Reports of Immense Products 695

Arizona : Its Large Area of Fertile Land. — Report of Several Experiments.

— Other Facts 698

Wyoming and Washington : Proofs of Fertility. — Letter of a Resident . 699 Irrigation: Its Advantage. — Remarks of a Writer. — Ditch in Kansas. —

Irrigation by Flooding. — Great Land Scheme. — Irrigating in San Luis Park. — Extent of Irrigation in Colorado, with J. Max Clark's Description of it. — Cost of Irrigation. — Irrigating an Orchard in California. — Underground Irrigation 702