Life in California during a residence of several years in that territory : comprising a description of the country and the missionary establishments, with incidents, observations, etc. With an appendix: bringing forward the narrative fom 1846, to the occupation of the country by the United States

Front matter

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

RESIDENCE OF SEVERAL YEARS IN THAT TERRITORY.

Introduction

IN venturing to submit the following work to public notice, the writer would respectfully state, that it was originally intended as an introduction only, to his translation of Father Boscana's " Historical Account of the Indians of California ; " but owing to the increasing interest manifested for the fate of that fair portion of the North American Continent, he has been induced to extend his first views, that he might lay before the reader a simple statement, respecting the country, and its political progress, from the time when Mexico became free from Spanish dominion. It has been his object to confine himself, as much as possible, to those events which came under his own personal observation, and, though possessing but few notes to which he could refer, he has endeavored to connect the historical with the political incidents, so that their dates may be depended upon.

Alta California is called a Territory, and is under the control of the general government of Mexico, which appoints its Governor and subordinate ofii-

6 INTRODUCTION.

cers. It extends along the border of the great Pacific, which bounds it on the west. On the east, it is bounded by a range of the Cordilleras and the Indian territor}^ The northern limit is to the forty-second degree of north latitude, and the southern boundary extends to the Presidio of St Diego, or a little further south.

The writer has gleaned the early history from a celebrated work of Padre Miguel Vanegas, who says, "The country of which we are to treat, is '' known on the maps under three distinct names : "first, ^California,' — second, 'New Albion* — third, " * Islas Carolinas.' That of California is the most " ancient, for we find it in the work of Bernal Diaz "del Castillo, a soldier of Hernan Cortez; his com- "panion in the conquest of Mexico, and afterwards "his historian." The name of New Albion was given by Sir Francis Drake in 1577, on his second voyage round the world. The name of Islas Carolinas was given a hundred years afterwards in honor of Ki7ig Charles the Second of Spain, when he projected the conquest of California, which at that time was supposed to be an island.

It is thought by some writers, that the name " California," was given by the Spaniards, in consequence of the uncommon heat which they experienced, on their first visit, and was derived from the two Latin words calida and fornax. Father

INTRODUCTION. 7

Vanegas thinks differently; he says, ''The name " originated accidentally, from a wrong pronuncia- " tion, as might have occurred in the sounding of " any Indian expression, badly understood by the " Spaniards."

The whole of Upper California was left entirely to the control of the Franciscan Friars; while the Dominicans were entrusted with the lower province. From 1769 until 1776, no less than nineteen Missions were founded — another in 1817, and one more in 1823, which are all that have ever been established. These were the germs of Spanish colonization, which were advanced under the protection of four Presidios, or military fortresses; viz., St. Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey, and St. Francisco ; from whence troops could be marched at any moment, if requisite. The prosperity of these Missions was great until the year 1824, since which they have gradually depreciated, and are now almost entirely destroyed.

The shore in some places is lessened by the near approach of a range of mountains toward the sea ; but there are spacious openings, which are capable of great improvement. In these openings, or valleys, the missions are located, and are so distanced as to be of great convenience to the traveller.

In the many revulsions suffered by Mexico from political struggles, California has had her share of

8 INTRODUCTION.

domestic disturbances; and for years past it has been the scene of numerous conflicts. The natives possess an inveterate dislike towards the Mexicans, which has given rise to sundry revolutions in their government. The time is not far distant when they will cease from such broils, and either become consolidated into an independent form of government, or be the subjects of foreign administration. Immigration will aid the former, while the attractions of its magnificent and giant harbor of St. Francisco may, in a very few years, effect the latter.

Chapter I

First Attempt of the Spaniards to Colonize Alta California.— Their Departure from Acapulco.— Their Return to New Spain. — Second Departure for California. — Their Arrival at St. Diego.— Founding of their First Mission. — Success of their Labors.— Departure of the "Writer from Boston.— Incidents on the Voyage.— Arrival at Valparaiso.— Departure for California. — St. Felix and St. Ambrose. — Arrival at Monterey, 15-23

Chapter II

Monterey as seen from the Ship. — A Visit to the Commandante. — Reception. — Unexpected Restrictions upon Commerce. — Preparations for a Departure. — Description of Monterey.— Departure for St. Diego. — Dangerous Navigation in the Bay. — Arrival at St. Diego. — A Visit to the Presidio.— Description of the same.— General Echeandia.— Climate. — An Entertainment on Board. — Vessels in Port. — Matrimonial Adventure, 24-34

Chapter III

Journey to St. Pedro, and Departure of the Ship.— Don Manuel and his "Sancho Panza." — Arrival at St. Diegito.— St. Luis Rey.— Padre Antonio Peyri. — Description of the Mission.— Ranclio de las Flores. — Mission of St. Juan. — Mayor-

10 CONTENTS.

domo. — " Cuatro Ojos." — Rancho de Santa Ana.— Don Tomas Yorba.— St. Gabriel.— Padre Jos6 Sanchez.— Mass.— Gambling. — A Yankee. — Mission of St. Fernando. — Padre Ybarra.— Pueblo de los Angeles.— St. Pedro.— Incidents of Trading, , 35-51

Chapter IV

Departure for Santa Barbara.— Arrival.— The Presidio.— Landing through the Surf. — Friend Daniel.— A Ride on Muleback. — Visit to Doiia Maria Antonia. — House of Friend Daniel. — Mission of Santa Barbara. — Female Costume. — Missions of St. Ynes and Purissima. — Rancho del Refugio.— St. Buenaventura.— Return to St. Diego.— House Blessing. —Fandango, 52-65

Chapter V

Departure for San Francisco. — Farallones Islands. — Yerba Buena. — Comandante.— The Presidio. — Journey to Santa Clara.— Mission of Dolores.— Rancho de las Pulgas.— Mission of Santa Clara.— San Francisco.— Departure for Monterey and Santa Barbara.— Journey to San Pedro. — Ride by Moonlight.— Tiburcio Tapia, 66-75

Chapter VI

Residence in St. Diego. — Practice of Medicine. — Evening's Amusements.— Pastores. — La Noche Buena. — Insurrection in the North. — Departure of Echeandia and his Troops, — Defeat of the Rebels.—" Hide Park."— Hide Stealing.— Embarkation.— Pueblo de San Jose.— Its Inhabitants. — Mission de San Jos6. — Padre Narciso Duran. — Perilous Adventure in a Boat. — Sailing out of San Francisco. — Journey from Monterey to Santa Barbara. — Buena Vista. —La Soledad.— San Antonio. — San Miguel. — Hot Springs.— Santa Marga-

CONTENTS. 11

rita.— St. Luis Obispo.— Guadaloupe.—Matanzas.— A Chance Shot. — Landing Cargo at Santa Barbara. — New Residence on Shore, 76-101

Chapter VII

Mass at Santa Barbara.— Yankee Ingenuity. — Riding in California. — An Indian Game.— Temescal.— Secularization of the Missions.— A New General for California.— Fire on the Mountains. — Execution of two Indians.— Sulphurous Spring. — A Launch. — A New Companion.— Choyas. — A Bear and Bull Bait.— Padre Luis and his Comical English.— David Douglass, Esq. — St. Juan Bautista. — Padre Arroyo. — A Night with the Fleas. —A Californian Farm-House. — A Priest's Travelling Carriage.— An Indian Festival, . 102-126

Chapter VIII

Interesting News. — Another Revolution. — Arrival of Gen. Victoria with Troops. — Defeat of Victoria. — His Expulsion. — A new Government. — Pio Pico Governor. — Arrival of the banished Priests. — Opposition of the North to the South,— State of Santa Barbara.— A Good Joke.— Ruinous Condition of the Indians.— Sail ho! . . . 127-137

Chapter IX

Another Cruise.— A "Ranchero's" Perplexity.— Pudding Sauce, not Soup. — A Backwoodsman. — Heavy Rains.— Marriage Ceremony. — Fiesta de Boda. — Carnestolendas. — Battle with Eggs. — Padre Antonio and Friar Menendez. — A Severe Gale. — Dangerous Passage into San Francisco.— Safe Arrival. — General Jose Figueroa. — " Administrador " of the Customs, alias "El Pintito."— Patriotism !—" Hanging On."— Narrow Escape from Shipwreck. — A Departure for Boston. — A Visit to the Farallones.— Seal Fishery.— Roadstead of St,

12 CONTENTS.

Juan.— Seizure at San Francisco.— Drought.— Procession for Rain, 138-158

Chapter X

Dividing of the Missions.— Sporting at Santa Barbara. — Arrival of the Ship " California."— Accident to Gale. — Supposed Revolutionary Designs. — Rumors.— Determination of the Priests. — Destruction of the Missions.— A new Appointment. — Arrival of the Colonists. — Seilor Hijar.— Plan of the Colonists. — Appointment of *^ Administradores ^^ to the Missions. — Death of Figueroa. — Proceedings of the " Excelentisima Diputaciony — Burial of Figueroa at Santa Barbara.— A new Governor. — His Disgrace. — Nicolas Gutierrez. —Disturbance at Monterey.— Juan B. Alvarado.— A Bold Tennesseean.— Surrender of the Mexicans. — Declaration of Independence.— Its Consequences in Mexico, . . 159-184

Chapter XI

Echeandia's Policy.— Don Carlos Carrillo appointed Governor.— War against his Nephew.— Is defeated.— Singular Approval of the Mexican Government.— Central Government.— Alvarado's wounded Dignity. — His Disgust for the Foreigners. — False Charges of Rebellion. — Seizure and Imprisonment of the Foreigners. — Their Banishment to Mexico. — Proclamation of Alvarado.— Arrival of an American and a French Sloop of War. — Consternation of Alvarado. — Satisfaction given to the Captain of the St. Louis.— Desertion of St. Diego. — Consequences of Secularization.— A Ride to the Pueblo.— Return of the Foreigners.— Mines.— Anglo-Californian Justice. — Temhlores.— Rodeo.— ^Q-di Incident.— Important News. — Arrival of a Bishop.— His Reception.— Arrival of Sir George Simpson and Governor McLaughlin, 185-205

CONTENTS. 13

Chapter XII

A Merienda. — A. Trip into the Interior.— Rancho de San Juan del Rio— Arrival of Micheltorena.— His Reception at St. Diego— Mexican Soldiery !— A Bull-fight.— War with the United States. — Capture of Monterey by the American Squadron under Commodore Jones.— Micheltorena's Flight. —His Subsequent Return and Establishment at Monterey.- Another Revolution.— A Battle.— Defeat of Micheltorena.— Expulsion of the Mexicans.— A New Governor, . 206-220

Conclusion, 221-232

Appendix, 233-261

Reminiscences of 1829 262-284

Life in California.

Chapter I

First Attempt of the Spaniards to Colonize Alta California.— Their Departure from Acapulco.— Their Return to New Spain.— Second Departure for California.— Their Arrival at St. Diego.— Founding of their First Mission.- Success of their Labors.— Departure of the Writer from Boston.— Incidents on the Voyage.— Arrival at Valparaiso. — Departure for California.— St. Felix and St. Ambrose.— Arrival at Monterey.

NUMEROUS attempts were made during the reign of Philip the Second of Spain to colonize the Peninsula of California; but it was not until the reign of his son and successor, " Philip the Third," that the efforts of the Spaniards met with any success. This sovereign, instigated by the same political policy as his father, in the year 1599, despatched orders to the Count de Monte Rey, then commander of the Colony of New Spain, directing him at the expense of the treasury, regardless of the cost of the enterprise, to use all possible diligence in making new discoveries, and, above all, further entrance into Alta California. Accordingly, the Viceroy, after much deliberation, to ensure the success of a project that excited so much enthusiasm, and caused so many calamities during the previous century, appointed as Captain General of the proposed expedition, " Don Sebastian Viscaino," who had once before commanded on a similar voyage, and who, on this occasion, seemed indefatigable in his endeavors to forward the interests of the enterprise.

Everything being ready on the 5th of May, 1602, the General made sail from the port of Acapulco. His fleet consisted of two ships and a frigate, together with a small vessel with one mast, and drawing but little water, to be used on occasions when the larger vessels would have been impracticable. He was accompanied by three religious Carmelites ; one of whom, Friar Antonio de la Ascension, wrote a long account of the voyage, whereby it appears that Viscaino made actual survey of the coast, up to the latitude of Capes Mendocino and Blanco. They visited a large port near the "Punta de Pinos,^^ which, in honor of the Vicero}^, they named " Monterey." St. Diego was also explored, and another port in the neighborhood, which undoubtedly was St. Pedro.

Their hardships, infirmities, and dangers were so great, that to maintain themselves long on the coast was impossible ; and, in consequence, they returned to New Spain, after an absence of nearly eleven months, and anchored in Acapulco, in the latter part of March, 1603.

From this time, no particular attention was called to the acquisition and occupancy of Alta California, until the expulsion of the Jesuits, in 1768 ; when Padre Junipero Serra, of the order of St. Francisco, was appointed presiding missionary of the Californias. On the 12th of March, 1769, he embarked for Loreto, in company with sixteen others of the same College. They arrived in safety, and immediately commenced operations for a northern enterprise; cattle were driven across the mountains, and a naval and land expedition departed at different periods, for the purpose of uniting at St. Diego, to co-operate in the spiritual conquest. The latter, under the command of the Governor, Don Gaspar Portala, and Padre Junipero, arrived on the first of July, 1769, and found the ships at anchor, which had arrived nearly two months before them. Mutual congratulations passed between the officers; surveys were commenced ; the country was explored ; and here, in this wild, uncultivated spot, they erected their first Mission, and named it, in honor of the patron saint of Spain, " St. Diego."

It was not until the succeeding year that San Carlos was founded at Monterey ; and in 1771, when other reverend Padres arrived from St. Bias, they established the Missions of St. Antonio and St. Gabriel. Thus, by occasional succor from the Viceroy of Mexico, the holy enterprise prospered ; new Missions were founded, and the missionaries beheld with rapture the success and triumph of the Cross.

More than half a century had passed by. Father Junipero was no more, and the few faithful companions of his pilgrimage to this distant land had, like him, found rest from their labors in the tomb; others had filled their places ; and notwithstanding that the subversion of Spanish dominion in Mexico, and subsequent change to a republican form of government, had somewhat lessened their zeal; yet the neophyte was protected, conquests increased, and the abundance of the warehouses and granaries continued to be distributed with the same fostering liberality.

At this period the writer embarked at Boston on a voyage to the North-west coast of America. It was on a beautiful morning in July, 1828, and our noble craft* slipped quietly down the bay with a light wind from the south-west. The breeze soon freshened, and the sight of the friends who had accompanied us to the wharf, the buildings, the steeples, and the neighboring hills, all gradually grew fainter and fainter, " till like a dream they passed away."

The pilot left us — and at sunset I stood gazing on the dim outline of our native land, which, like a cloud, appeared slowly fading in the west, till naught remained to gaze upon but the distant horizon. Night passed, and morning came; and with it all the routine of a sailor's life, such as usually accompanies the first few days of a long voyage; clearing decks, stowing cables, securing spars, &c., and then followed, day after day, the same monotonous and tedious scenes, with nothing to relieve them from their w^earisomeness, or incident worthy of consideration, till three long months had expired, when we opened upon the Pacific — the great South Sea.

Our ship glides on, and as the mighty wave comes

slowly rolling from the west, she, with equal sublimity, rises to the element and then sinks majestically into its course below, as if in courteous recognition of its approach. Wave after wave rolls on, wave after wave is left behind, and thus she pursues unchangingly her destined course. But the scene changes. Thick clouds appear in the horizon, wdiose quick advance and fearful aspect betoken the coming storm ! the ship is prepared to meet its fury — sail after sail is taken in, till from a top-gallant studding sail, and running before the w^ind, she is lying to, reduced to a close-reefed maintopsail, and mizzen staysail. The storm at length comes — cloud after cloud adds new fury to its blasts — the sea rises, and in its way would seem to engulf all before it — one vast surge comes aboard with heavy crash, and sweeps the deck of boats and spars, the bulwarks, and all that meets its course. The climate changes also ; and cold, snow^ and hail are added to the terrors that surround us. At length, however, the storm abates; sail is made, and we are again in apparent security ; but soon it returns wdth redoubled fury ; and the ship is again lying like a log upon the ocean. Thus we proceed, gale succeeding gale ! one storm only ceasing, to give place to another — our good ship making but little progress, until, at last, enabled to take a northerly course, and the w^nd proving favorable, we rapidly leave these tempestuous latitudes. A few days of prosperous gales bring us to anchor in the pleasant bay of Valparaiso.

A protracted passage of 110 days made it necessary for us to put in here to replenish our water, and after three days' detention we again made sail for the port of Monterey. Three days out, we came in sight of the Islands of St. Felix and St. Ambrose. When about three miles distant from the latter, the mate with a few men started off in one of the boats on a fishing excursion, and returned after a few hours' absence with plenty of fish of different kinds. We next proceeded to St. Felix, which bore N.N.W. of us, distant about fifteen miles, and hove to, between the island and sail rock, so called from its singular resemblance to a sail when seen from a distance. This island is much larger than that of St. Ambrose, and easier of access, though equally barren and destitute of vegetation. We found here the ruins of a house which had probably been erected by some sealing-party, for we saw great numbers of seals lying about among the rocks, and killed several ourselves. Sea-birds were abundant — fish, also, of which we caught many, and returned on board to pursue our voyage.

From this time no particular occurrence took place until we came in sight of land ; and then the weather was such that several days intervened ere we could learn our true position ; at length, on the afternoon of the 15th February, 1829, the fog cleared up and we beheld the '' Punta de Pinos " bearing east, distant ten or twelve miles. This was the outer southern point of the bay of Monterey, into which we were soon slowly gliding. The breeze now died away, night closed around us, and as we approached our place of anchorage, naught was heard but the occasional cry of the leadsman in the chains, or the dip of the oars as the boatmen towed us slowly into port. Suddenly a flash was seen from the castle, the report followed, and a ball came whizzing across our bow, so near the boat as to throw upon the men the spray, as it glanced over the waters. " Let go the anchor," cried the captain. " Aye, aye, sir," answered the mate, and then followed immediately the splash and the running out of chain cable, until the heavy iron instrument had found its restingplace in the sand.

A few minutes elapsed when a boat came off from the shore containing an officer of the customs and his assistant ; sent by the commandant of the '' Presidio." They appeared much pleased when informed that we wished to trade on the coast, and particularly so, when made acquainted with the nature and amount of the ship's cargo. The conversation soon became general, and the more intelligent of the two (Don Manuel Jimeno) gave us an account of the country, its government, missions, and its political condition at that time. He spoke also of the affair of the ship Franklin of Boston, which had a short time previous been detained by the authorities on suspicion of being engaged in contraband trade, causing much excitement throughout the country, and consequent restrictions on commerce. Her flight from the port of St. Diego was thought miraculous, running the gauntlet of a heavy battery within pistol shot of the cannon's mouth, and yet escaping without injury. On she sailed, leaving her enemies in the distance, little heeding their

LIFE IN CALIFORNIA.

guns, till, once more rolling to the swell of the mighty ocean, she approached Point Loma, when a light cloud was seen to emerge from her side, and the report of her cannon came reverberating among the hills, as if in derision of a government of such weakness and pusillanimity.

The local government, exasperated by this open defiance of their authority, sought by more stringent regulations of trade to prevent in future any fraud upon the revenue ; and conscious of its weakness at most of the ports along the coast, laid an embargo upon all, with the exception of the more strongly fortified places of Monterey and St. Diego, at which ports only, foreign vessels were allowed to enter and discharge their cargoes.

The officers bade ns '' buenas noches,'' said left us for the shore, leaving us to ruminate upon the events which had passed, and those likely to ensue, with many forebodings of the trials and disappointments which from the recent change in the revenue laws we were probably to encounter. What were we to do? With the exception of Monterey and St. Diego, all the ports were closed, and we were prohibited from discharging at any other. This restriction, if insisted upon, would overturn all our calculations, and in fact ensure a total failure of the voyage.

Our supercargo, William A. Gale, was much perplexed in consequence, and resolved to write to the Governor at St. Diego, setting forth the fact of our having fitted out from the United States with the supposition that no change would be made in the regulation of commerce ; that the recent alteration had not given sufficient time for the news to have reached us prior to our departure from home, and that consequently, he should take into consideration the embarrassment of our situation and repeal in some way the restrictions of the new law.

CHAPTER 11.

Monterey as seen from the Ship. — A Visit to the Conimandante. — Reception. — Unexpected Restrictions upon Commerce. — Preparations for a Departure. — Description of Monterey.— Departure for St. Diego. — Dangerous Navigation in the Bay. — Arrival at St. Diego. — A A^isit to the Presidio.— Description of the same. — General Echeandia.— Climate. — An Entertainment on Board. — Vessels in Port. — Matrimonial Adventure.

THE next day, when I was to look for the first time upon those shores which were to become for some years my home, was necessarily one of great excitement, and I hurried on deck much earlier than my usual hour. Before us lay stretched out the shore, and as it curved away toward the northern extremity of the bay, the swell of the ocean, wave after wave, echoed loud and heavily upon its sands. The sun had just risen, .and glittering through the lofty pines that crowned the summit of the eastern hills, threw its light upon the lawn beneath. On our left w^as the " Presidio," with its chapel dome, and towering flag-staff in conspicuous elevation. On the right, upon a rising ground, was seen the " Castillo " or fort, surmounted by some ten or a dozen cannons. The intervening space between these two points was enlivened by the hundred scattered dwellings that form the town ; and here and there groups of cattle grazing.

After breakfast, G. and myself went on shore on a visit to the Commandant, Don Mariano Estrada, whose residence stood in the central part of the town, in the usual route from the beach to the Presidio. Its external appearance, notwithstanding it was built of adobe or brick, made by the mixture of soft mud and straw, modelled and dried in the sun, was not displeasing ; for the outer walls had been plastered and whitewashed, giving it a cheerful and inviting aspect. Like all dwellings built in the warm countries of America, it was but one story in height, covered with tiles, and occupied, in its entire premises, an extensive square.

Our Don was standing at his door, and as we approached he, with true Castilian courtesy, sallied forth to meet us, embraced G., shook me cordially by the hand, then bowed us ceremoniously into the " sa/(X." Here we seated ourselves upon a sofa at his right, and during conversation ^' cigarritos^' passed freely, and although thus early in the day, a proffer was made of refreshments. We learned from him that the courier was to leave the following morning for St. Diego ; and as it was necessary to prepare a petition to the General, we soon took leave of our commandant and proceeded to the house of Lieutenant Rocha, a friend of G., under whose direction the document was to be drawn up.

During the absence of the courier, who left next day with our petition, we determined to prepare the ship for sea, to be enabled to sail immediately in the event of an unfavorable answer from the Governor. Accordingly, the men were employed in replenishing water casks, cutting and embarking wood, packing beef, and other various duties necessary to our departure. Whilst these preparations were going on, I had many opportunities of visiting the neighboring country, and enjoying some friendly intercourse with the inhabitants. Several Englishmen and Americans were residents here, who had been married to pretty Californian women, and had settled down in the peculiar occupations of the country. I became acquainted particularly with Mr. W. E. P. Hartnell and Mr. David Spence, the former from England, and connected in business with a mercantile house in Lima, having an extensive trade on the coast, and making large contracts with the missions. The latter was a Scotchman, and a partner of Hartnell. An Anglo-Yankee sea captain, J. B. E. Cooper, from Boston, and several others, were added to the number of my friends, with whom I enjoyed many pleasant hours.

" El Presidio," or town of Monterey, is situated on the declivity of a beautiful rising ground, the top of which is crowned with stately pines. The gradual ascent to its elevated summit is covered with scattered woods and rich and varied flowers. There are many pleasant locations in the vicinity, where the natives frequently resort to celebrate their festivities or " Meriendas,^^ and many " lagunas " are scattered throughout the neighborhood, that during the winter months are crowded with ducks, whilst the green plains are literally covered with geese. The woods contain an abundance to gratify the sportsman, and a variety to enchant the botanist.

Amongst the many useful herbs whose medicinal virtues have been discovered by the natives, one in particular is held in high esteem, since it -is by them considered a specific for the poisonous bite of the rattlesnake. Its peculiar virtues were discovered not long since by an Indian, who seems to have placed the most implicit faith in its power, for he submitted himself to be bitten by a snake upon the arm. His limbs immediately swelled to an extraordinar}^ size, and the poor native seemed just ready to expire, when taking a small quantity of the herb in his mouth and chewing it, he spat upon the wound, and rubbing this into it with his hand, in a short time entirely recovered. It is said by the Indians, that should any venomous reptile eat of the plant, its death would be instantaneous.

Another of their plants of very useful properties, heals the most dangerous wound without the accumulation of pus, which is not an un frequent attendant upon the application of balsam. Another, called the " Canchelagua," is found to be excellent in curing the fever and ague, and may be depended upon in any case, no matter of how long standing. It abounds all over the coast, and in the spring, during the season of flowers, its pretty blossoms add much to the beauty of the country.

At this time the population of the town did not exceed one thousand souls, including all the neighboring "Ranchos;" and although they annually elected a civil magistrate and two inferior officers, yet the general government was a military despotism on a petty scale. The Governor General resided at

St. Diego, where the temperature of the climate better agreed with his delicate constitution ; so that when any appeal was necessary from the decision of the "Alcalde Constitiicional,^' it was not unfrequently the case that the delay of a month occurred ere the documents were interchanged, and a decisive judgment given.

At length, however, our courier returned. Our petition had obtained only a trivial modification of the law which permitted us to trade at Santa Barbara in addition to the ports before mentioned ; but it required the landing of the entire cargo at these places, without any reimbursement of duties in the event of their re-embarkation. This was not sufficient encouragement for us to discharge any part of