History of the Willamette Valley, being a description of the valley and resources

Front matter

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Chapter I

America in the Sixteenth Century.— Spain's Foothold in the New World— The Age of Romance and Adventure— The Method and Successive Stages of Conquest — Discovery of the South Sea, or Pacific Ocean, by Balboa and Magellan — Conquest of Mexico and Peru — First Attempt to Colonize the Peninsula of Lower California — Efforts of Portugal, England and France 17

Chapter II

The Fabulous Straits of Anian. — Cortereal Discovers the Straits of Labrador — Imagines he has passed through Novus Mundus — Vasco de Gama reaches India by doubling the Cape of Good Hope — Naming of the Straits of Anian by Cortereal— Magellan's Discovery of a Southwest Passage Confirms the Belief in a Northwest one— Explorations of Cortes in the Pacific— Voyage of Francisco de Ulloa — Mendoza Dispatches Alarcon and Coronado in Search of Cibola and Quivira — Voyage of Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo— His Death — Ferrelo Continues the Voyage to Latitude 43° or 44° — Spain Abandons the Search for the Straits of Anian and Turns her Attention to the Indies — Spanish Commerce Supreme in the Pacific — Her Claim of Exclusive Domain — The Buccaneers, or Freebooters of the Spanish Main, Invade the Pacific — Piratical Voyage of Sir Francis Drake — He Searches for the Straits of Anian — Dispute among Historians as to the Extent of his Voyage — Drake Lands his Pilot in Oregon — Drake's Bay not the Bay of San Francisco — Drake Takes Possession of New Albion — Romances of Chaplain Fletcher — Drake's Success Excites the Emulation of other Adventurers — Fraudulent Claims of Discovery of a Northwest Passage— Maldonado's Pretended Voyage through the Straits of Anian — His Memorial a Sham 21

Chapter III

The Straits of Juan de Fuca and the River of Kings.— Narrative of Michael Lock, the Elder — Story of Juan de Fuca, as told by Lock — description of the Straits of Fuca — Controversy among Historians over Fuca' a alleged Voyage — Both Sides Carefully Considered — Probably a Myth — Admiral Fonte's alleged Voyage — The River of Kings — Its Absurdity Pointed Out 37

Chapter IV

Voyages and Events of the Seventeenth Century. — Philip orders a Voyage along the Pacific Coast — Reasons Assigned by Torquemada and Venegas— Viscaino sent out by the Viceroy in 1596 — Viscaino's second Voyage in 1602 — Ravages of the Scurvy— He Enters Monterey — Argument of the Claim that he Entered San Francisco Bay— Earliest Positive

VI CONTENTS.

Knowledge of that Harbor — Viscaino goes to Latitude 42° and returns ; but Aguilar reaches 43° — Cape Blanco and the River of Aguilar— California Supposed to be an Island— Viscaino dies a'fter Obtaining a Royal Mandate to occupy Monterey — Spain Ceases all Explorations of the Coast- 45

Chapter V

Hudson's Bay, Cape Horn, and Behring's Straits.— Discovery of Davis' Straits— Henry Hudson, William Baffin, and other Explorers in the North-Atlantic — Dutch Navigators Discover the Passage around Cape Horn — Buccaneers Swarm into the Pacific by the New Route— Otondo attempts to Colonize Lower California — The Hudson's Bay Company Chartered, in 1669, to Discover the Straits of Anian — Privileges Granted by the Charter — The Company Heads off all efforts at Exploration— Russians cross Siberia and Explore the Pacific — Plans of Peter the Great — Discovery of Behring's Straits and Alaska— Voyage of Tchirikof— Behring Discovers Mount St. Elias and Dies on Behring's Isle— The Early Fur Trade of the North Pacific— Benyowsky Takes a Cargo of Furs to Canton and thus Reveals the Magnitude of the Pacific Ocean— Russian Idea of Alaskan Geography 52

Chapter VI

From Captain Carver to Captain Cook.— The Jesuits Colonize Lower California — The Franciscans Enter California — Discovery of San Francisco Bay — Early French Explorers— The River of the West — Verendrye Explores the Rocky Mountains — France Sells Louisiana to Spain and Loses Canada to England by Conquest— Journey of Captain Carver— He calls the River of the West "Oregon" — Argument upon the Origin of the Word "Oregon"— The Generally Accepted Spanish Theory does not Stand the Light of Investigation — The Hudson's Bay Company's Policy of Keeping the World Ignorant of the Geography of the Country Occupied by Them— Samuel Hearne Discovers Great Slave Lake, Coppermine River and the Arctic Ocean — Russia's Activity in Alaska Incites Spain to Renew her Explorations — Voyage of Perez and Martinez — Perez enters Port San Lorenzo, or Nootka Sound— Martinez Claims to have Observed the Straits of Fuca— Voyage of Heceta and Bodega y Quadra — Bellin's Wonderful Chart— Discovery of Trinidad Bay— Isla de Dolores, or Destruction Island— Heceta Attempts to Enter the Columbia — Spanish and English Methods of Exploration Compared— Bodega and Maurelle Discover Mount San Jacinto, or Edgecumb — They Land and Take Possession for the King of Spain — They Reach Latitude 58° and Return— England, in Alarm at the Progress Made by Spain and Russia, Sends Captain Cook to the Pacific— His Particular Instructions— Cook Names the Sandwich Islands, Cape Flattery and Nootka Sound, and Searches for the Straits of Fuca, River of Kings and Straits of Anian — He Passes Through Behring's Straits and Around the Northwestern Extremity of Alaska — . Winters in the Sandwich Islands and is killed by the Natives— The Expedition Again Visits the Arctic, Takes a Cargo of Furs to Canton and Returns to England— The Record of the Voyage Pigeon-holed Until the War is Over— Enterprise of John Ledyard— Arteaga, Bodega and Maurelle Follow Cook's Route Up the Coast 63

Chapter VII

Spain's Supremacy in the FACiFrc Overthrown.— The Russian- American Trading Company — France sends La Perouse to the Pacific— James

CONTENTS. VI 1

Hanna makes the First Voyage in the Fur Trade from England— England's Short-sighted Policy of Granting Monopoly Charters— The East India Company and South Sea Company — Their Conflicting Interests • Lead to the Organization of the King George's Sound Company — Belief that North America above Latitude 49° was an Archipelago of Huge Islands— First Voyage of Captain Meares — His Terrible Winter on ttie Alaskan Coast— Captain Barclay Discovers the Straits of Fuca— Meares Engages in the Fur Trade under the Portuguese Flag— He Builds the .Schooner " Northwest America " at Nootka Sound— Explores the Straits of Fuca — His Unsuccessful Search for the Rio de San Roque — Deception Bay and Cape Disappointment — The United States Enters the Contest for the Control of the Pacific Coast— The "Columbia Rediviva " and " Lady Washington "—The Latter Attacked by Indians, and the Former Supplies Spain with an Opportunity to Promulgate her Doctrine of Exclusive Rights in the Pacific — Martinez sent to Explore the Coast and Investigate the Russians — His Report of Russian Operations Causes Spain to Send a Remonstrance to the Empress— Martinez Fortifies Nootka and Takes Possession in the Name of the King of Spain— He Seizes the "Iphigenia" and " Northwest America "— Colnett and Hudson arrive in the •'Argonaut" and "Princess Royal" — Are made Prisoners by Martinez and sent to Mexico — The Prisoners Released and Vessels Restored— Controversy between England and Spain Terminated by the Nootka Convention — Stipulations of the Treaty Displease both Parties 92

CHAPTER VIII. ' Puokt Sound and Columbia River Discovered.— Explorations of Lieutenant Quimper in the Straits of Fuca — He takes Formal Possession for Spain — Elisa Explores the Straits of Fuca and Gulf of Georgia — Malaspina and Bustamante Search for the Straits of Anian — Kendrick Again Visits the Coast and Buys Land from the Indians — Gray Arrives in the Columbia and Winters at Clayoquot — Events of 1792 — Spain makes a Last Effort to Explore the Disputed Region— Arrival of Vancouver's Expedition — He Examines the Oregon Coast— Searches in Vain for the Rio de San Roque —He Records his Unqualified Disbelief in such a River — Gray Builds the 'Adventure" at Clayoquot— He Discovers the Columbia River — Vancouver Explores Puget Sound and Falls in with the Spaniards — He Examines the Coast Carefully— Meets Quadra at Nootka— Finds Him Prepared with Proofs to Sustain the Cause of Spain— They Fail to Agree on Terms— They Bestow their Names upon the Island of Vancouver and Quadra— Broughton Explores the Columbia— Vancouver Finishes His Explorations and Returns to England— The Nootka Question Settled and the Port Abandoned . 118

Chapter IX

Ovebland JOURNEYS TO THE Pacific— Organization of the Northwest Company of Montreal— Mackenzie's Journey to the Arctic Ocean— His Trip to the Pacific in 1792— Discovery and Naming of Eraser River— Treaty of 1794 Opens a Western Field for American Traders— Conflicting Claims of Various Nations at the Beginning of the Present Century— Spain Reconveys Loui«,iana to France in 1800- Thomas Jefferson's Efforts to have the Unknown Region Explored— Louisiana Purchased by the United States — The Lewis and Clarke Expedition — They Winter with the Mandan Indians— Ascend the Missouri— Cross to Clarke's Fork— Reach the Nex Perces — Descend Clearwater, Lewis (Snake) and Columbia Rivers to the vm CONTENTS.

Pacific— Winter at Fort Clatsop— The Multnomah, or Willamette, River —The Walla Walla, Cayuse and Nez Perce Indians— Lewis and Clarke Descend the Yellowstone and Missouri — Effect of their Great Journey — Anxiety of Great Britain— Fort Fraser Established in New Caledonia — Fort Henry Built on Snake River 130

Chapter X

Astoria and the Joint Occupation Treaty. — The Pacific Fur Trade at the Beginning of the Present Century— Americans in the Lead — Their Plan oi Operations— Russia Complains of the Sale of Fire-Arms to the Indians — John Jacob Astor's Plans — The Pacific Fur Company Organized — Astor's Alien Partners— The "Tonquin" Sails from New York — Dissensions on the Voyage— Dangers of the Columbia Bar— Astoria Founded — Sad Fate of the " Tonquin " and Her Crew— Appearance at Astoria of an Agent of the Northwest Company — Fort Okinagan— Launch of the "Dolly " — Sufferings of Wilson Price Hunt's Party— Operations along the Columbia— Astoria Sold to the Northwest Company— Captured by the English and Named "Fort George "—Unsuccessful Efforts of Mr. Astor to Regain Possession — Negotiations under the Treaty of Ghent — Conflicting Claims to Oregon Advanced by England and the United States — Technical Surrender of Fort George— Joint Occupation Agreed Upon — The Florida Treaty 147

Chapter XI

The Rival Fur Companies. — Growth and Power of the Northwest Company — Rivalry between it and the Hudson's Bay Company — The Red River War — Barrows' Description of the Hudson's Bay Company— The Canadian Voyageurs— Fort Vancouver Founded — Dunn's Description of the Fort and the Methods of the Hudson's Bay Company in Oregon 169

Chapter XII

Diplomacy Again Ends in Joint Occupation.— Claim of the United States to the Columbia River — Spasmodic Consideration of the Oregon Question in Congress— The Russian Ukase — The Monroe Doctrine — Negotiations in 1824 — Claims of the United States Advanced by Mr. Rush— The Opposing Claims of Great Britain — Reply of Mr. Rush and the English Commissioners to Each Other — England Rejects America's Offer of the Fifty-first Parallel, and Proposes the Forty-ninth and Columbia River— Rush Offers the Forty-ninth to the Ocean— Rejected and the Negotiations Terminate —Mr. Gallatin Sent to London in 1826— Offer of the Columbia again made by England and Rejected— The Doctrine of Contiguity— The Spanish Title as Modified by the Nootka Convention— Trading Posts Declared not to be Settlements by Mr. Gallatin, a Declaration which Becomes a Boomerang — The Period of Joint Occupation Indefinitely Extended 179

Chapter XIII

Failure of all Attempts at Joint Occupation by the Americans.— Outlook for Joint Occupation — Comparison of the Advantages of the English and American Traders— Character of the American Trappers— The Hudson's Bay Company's Methods and Servants— Growth of the American Fur Trade — The American Fur Company — The Missouri Fur Company — Ashley, of the Rocky Mountain Fur Company, Penetrates the Rocky Mountains— Method of Conducting Trapping Enterprises — The Annual Rendezvous— Jedediah S. Smith's First Overland Journey — His Second Journey Fraught with Disaster— His Adventures in California—

CONTENTS. IX

His party Massacred on the Umpqua— The Hudson's Bay Company Recover Smith's Furs and Pay him for Them— Gray's Version of this Affair —The Subject Discussed— Bostons and King George's Men— Dr. Mc- Loughlin's Account of this Episode— McLeod's Unfortunate Expedition — Ogden's Expedition to the Humboldt and California— Death of Smith —Major Pilcher and Ewing Young— Hudson's Bay Company Establish Fort Umpqua and a Headquarters in California— Bonneville's Trading Ventures— Two Efforts of Nathaniel J. Wyeth to Trade in Oregon Result Disastrously— McLoughlin's Remarks on Wyeth— Abandonment of Oregon by American Trappers 186

Chapter XIV

Foundation and Progress of the Missions. — Missionaries Introduce a New Element into the Oregon Question — The Flatheads send Messengers to St. Louis to Procure a Bible— Jason Lee and others sent by the Methodist Board of Missions— They Locate in the Willamette Valley— Their Plan of Operations— Sickness at the Mission and Hostility of the Indians —Parker and Whitman sent by the American Board— Parker's Triumphal March— He Returns Home and Publishes a Book— Mr. and Mrs. Whitman—Whitman Takes a Cart as Far as Fort Boise— Missions Founded at Waiilatpu and Lapwai— Progress of the Missions of the American Board — Mission Founded at The Dalles — Advent of the Catholics — A Religious War at Once Begins — A Few Sample Incidents — Effects of the Two

Forms of Worship upon the Natives 207

Chapter XV

American Emigrants Organize a Provisional Government. — Early Advocates of Oregon Emigration —Efforts of Hall J. Kelley — The American Society for the Settlement of Oregon Territory — It Memorializes Congress and Advertises for Emigrants — Wyeth, Kelley and Ewing Young come to Oregon— Earliest American Settlers — McLoughlin's Account of Settlement of French Prairie — The Willamette Cattle Company — Population of Oregon in 1840— First Effort at a Government — Settlement at Willamette Falls — Radical Change in the Policy of the Hudson's Bay Company as Regards Settlers — The Company's Deep Laid Plan — Attitude of the Company and its Chief Representative — Dr. McLoughlin Considered —Reasons for the Bitter Feeling Entertained by some Americans— Dr. McLoughlin's Statement of His Conduct and the Treatment Received from both English and Americans— A Bad Showing, for the Gratitude of some Americans — Classification of the Population as Regards Interests — Reasons for Desiring a Government — A Petition Sent to Congress in 1840 — First Meeting to Form a Government— Death of Ewing Young Leads to the Organization of a Government— The Officers Elected — Failure to Form a Constitution— The Wilkes Expedition— The Wolf Meeting— The First Legislative Committee — Organization of the Provisional Government—The First Officers— Condition of the Missions— Antagonism of the Indians to American Settlers— Dr. White Induces the Nez Perces, Was-

copums and Cay uses to Adopt a Code of Laws 222

Chapter XVI

Dr. Whitman and the Emigration of 1843.— What Induced the Emigration of 1843 — Steps Taken to Organize the Movement — Dr. Whitman's Character— His Anxiety to Americanize Oregon — The Ashburton Treaty and the Cod Fishery— Whitman's Decision to Visit Washington— The Waiilatpu Meeting — The Unfortunate Controversy over the Services of

X CONTENTS.

Dr. Whitman— Gray's Walla Walla Romance— Its Absurdity Pointed Out —The Facts— Whitman and Lovejoy's Journey— Extent of Whitman's Influence in Inducing Emigration — His Visit to Washington and Boston —Organization and Journey of the Emigrants— List of Emigrants and Population of Oregon in 1843— Fremont's Exploring Party 260

Chapter XVII

1844 to 1849.— Indian Difficulty at Oregon City— First Military Company— Methodist Missions Abandoned— Increase of the Catholic Workers— Election of 1844— Abstract of Votes— Proceedings of the Legislative Committee—Emigration of 1844— List of Emigrants— Election of 1845— George Abernethy Chosen First Governor of Oregon --Abstract of Votes— Oath of Office — Dr. White and the Memorial to Congress— Wheat a Legal Tender — Census of 1845— Emigration of 1845— Meek Takes the Emigrants by a New Route and Loses Them in the Mountains — The Eventful Year of 1846— Mr. Blaine's Account of the Settlement of the Oregon Question —Election of 1846— Emigration of 1846— The Applegate Trail— Flags of the Schooner "Shark" — Emigration of 1847— The Traveling Nursery — Elections of 1847 and 1848— Emigration of 1848 279

Chapter XVIII

The Whitman Massacre and the Cayuse War.— Condition of Protestant and Catholic Missions in 1847 — Situation of Affairs at Waiilatpu — Tom Hill and Joe Lewis— Whitman Buys The Dalles Mission and Prepares to Abandon Waiilatpu— Catholics Establish a Mission on the Umatilla— Sickness among the Cayuses — Joe Lewis' Poison Story— Evidence of Colonel Craig and the Whitman Indians— Details of the Massacre- Charges Against the Catholics — Ransom of the Captives — Action of the Provisional Government — Oregon Rifles take Possession of The Dalles— A Regiment Organized— Campaign in the Cayuse Country— End of the War — Five Cayuses Executed at Oregon City 305

Chapter XIX

Oregon Becomes an Organized Territory.— News Brought by Emigrants in 1847 very Disheartening — Letter of Senator Benton— J. Quinn Thornton Sent to Washington to Urge Legislation— Incidents of his Journey — Joseph L. Meek Sent to Washington after the Whitman Massacre — His Mid- Winter Journey — Interesting Account of the Contest in the Senate over the Oregon Bill— General Joseph Lane Appointed Governor— His Trip Overland— Organization of the Government— Officers of the Old and New Governments— Census of 1849— Discovery of Gold in California- Beaver Money 319

Chapter XX

Oregon as a Territory.— Organization of the Territorial Government- First Legislature— Towns in Oregon in 1850— A Military Episode— John P. Gaines Succeeds General Lane as Governor — Inharmony between Democratic Legislature and Whig Officers— Three Newspapers Enter the Field —The Steamer " Lot Whitcomb "—Oregon City and Salem Contest for the Capital— Wreck of the "General Warren "—Indian Troubles in 1851- 52-53— George L. Curry becomes Governor— Efforts to Form a State Constitution— Colville Mines— Indian War of 1855-56— Political Complications— Fraser River Excitement— Oregon Admitted to the Union 332

CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XXI

Indian Wars of 1853 and 1854.— Outrages Committed in Rogue River Valley — Volunteer Companies Organized— General Lane Takes Command — Defeat of Lieutenant Griffin and of Lieutenant Ely— Indians Defeated at Battle Creek— Armistice of Seven Days— The Table Rock Treaty— Incidents of the ''Peace Talk"— The Grave Creek Massacre— Captain Miller Sent to Escort Emigrants through the Modoc Country— Expenses of the War Paid by the Government— Events of 1854 — The Snake River Massacre —Expedition of Major Haller to Fort Boise 353

Chapter XXII

The Great Outbreak of 1855.— Inability of Indians to form a Coherent Combination—Rogue River, Puget Sound and the Columbia Hostilities Distinct and Separate — Relation of Whites and Indians in Rogue River Valley—Controversy between General Wool and the Citizens— Incidents before the Outbreak— The Lupton Affair— Quick Revenge of the Indians — Massacre of October 9th— Heroic Defense of Mrs. Harris— Great Excitement Prevails — A Review of the Situation — Causes which Led to the War on the Columbia — Indian Treaties made by Stevens and Palmer—They Mislead the People by Publishing Incorrect Statements of what they have Accomplished — Discovery of Gold in the Colville Region — Sauce for the Goose not Sauce for the Gander— Murder of Mattice— Hegira from Colville and Walla Walla — Murder of Indian Agent Bolan — Regulars Invade the Yakima Country— Defeat of Major Haller— Major Raines Calls for Volunteers—Governor Curry Calls for Ten Companies— General Wool's opinion of Governor Curry's Conduct— Auother Cause Assigned for the War — Excitement in Willamette Valley— The "Oregonian" and " Statesman" — Wars and Rumors of Wars Alarm the People 365

Chapter XXIII

The Fall Campaigns in the South.— Governor Curry Calls for Two Battalions of Volunteers— Siege of Galice Creek — Battle of Hungry Hill — A Poor Commissariat, and Jealousy between Regulars and Volunteers Cause Disaster — Organization of the Two Battalions— They Arrange with the Regulars for a Joint Campaign— The First Meadows Campaign — Invasion of the Rice Settlement — Massacre of Peaceable Umpquas in Looking-Glass Valley — Attack on the Camps of Jake and John — The Siege on Applegate Creek— Fight on Murphy Creek — Close of the Campaign for the Winter-- 394

Chapter XXIV

The Yakima, Walla Walla and Puget Sound Campaigns.— Troops Concentrate at The Dalles— Conflict of authority — An Incident at Vancouver—Block House Built at the Cascades — Efforts to Equip the Volunteers—Regulars and Volunteers March North from The Dalles — Plan of the Campaign — The Fight on the Banks of the Yakima and at the "Buttes" — Burning of the Catholic Mission Ends the Campaign— Efforts to Treat with Peu-peu-mox-mox— Prelude to the Walla Walla Campaign—Fort Henrietta — Regulars Refuse their Aid in a Useless Winter Campaign— Unfitness of the Volunteers for such a Campaign— Colonel Kelly Marches Against the Walla Wallas— Capture of Peu-peu-mox-mox Under a Flag of Truce— A Night of Suspense and Excitement — A Fruitless Ante-Breakfast March— Battle of Walla Walla— Killing of Peu-peumox-mox and other Prisoners— Ears and Scalp of the Chief Exhibited in the Willamette Valley — The Situation after the Battle — Killed and

Xll CONTENTS.

Wounded— Great Excitement in the Willamette when the News is Received— "Oregonian" Editorials on the Situation — General Wool Condemned — His Opinion of the War and the People's Opinion of Him — Governor Stevens Prefers Charges Against General Wool — Incidents Attending the Return of Governor Stevens from the Blackfoot Country — The Charges of the Irate Governor Pigeon-holed — The Situation During the Winter — Unpleasant Experiences of the Volunteers —Reinforcements sent to Walla Walla — Colonel Cornelius Resumes the Offensive — Horse Meat Causes a Mutiny — No Enemy Being Found, the Command Abandons the Walla Walla Country — Farewell Courtesies of Kama-i-akun — The Volunteers Disband Without Official Recognition of their Services — . Honors Received from the People — Two Companies Raised to Guard the Columbia — Refrain of the "Horse-fed Volunteer" — The Political and Speculative Aspect of the Campaign — Governor Curry goes to Washington to Counteract the Influence of General Wool, and Secure an Appropriation to Defray the Expenses of the War 404

Chapter XXV

Closing Scenes of the War on Rogue River.— Reorganization of the Volunteers — Appointment of General Lamerick — Removal of the Table Rock Band to the Coast Reservation — The Flag of Truce Incident — Battle of Eight-Dollar Mountain— Campaign to Big Meadows— Battle at the Bar- Fort Lamerick Built iu Big Meadows — Massacre at Gold Beach — The Regulars Assume the Offensive — They Chastise the Indians at different Places — Council of Oak Flat — Battle between Chief John and Captain Smith — The Volunteers defeat Limpy and George — All the Hostiles Surrender and are taken to the Coast Reservation 483

Chapter XXVI

The Attack on the Cascades. — Colonel Wright Assumes Command of the Regulars— His Instructions from General Wool— He Starts for the Walla Walla Country with a Strong Force— Fears of an Attack on the Cascades —The Attack is Made on the Twenty-Sixth of March, 1856— Details of the Affair — Colonel Wright Comes to the Rescue from The Dalles, and Lieutenant Sheridan from Vancouver — Indians Captured and Hanged— List of Killed and Wounded— Intelligence of the Attack Creates Great Excitement in Portland and up the Valley— Two Volunteer Companies go to • the Rescue— Panicy Rumors Distract the People— All Quiet on the Sandy 447

Chapter XXVII

Campaigns of Colonels Wright, Steptoe and Shaw.— Additional Defenses at the Cascades— Colonel Wright Invades the Yakima Country- He Fails to Negotiate with Kama-i-akun, and Returns to The Dalles- Plans of Governor Stevens— He sends the Second Regiment into the Walla Walla Country in two Battalions— Composition of the Regiment— Battle of Grand Ronde— Battle of Burnt River— Killed and Wounded— Colonel Shaw Averts a War with the Nez Perces— Colonel Steptoe sent to Walla Walla to Build a Fort — His Proclamation that the Indian Treaties were not yet in Force — Governor Stevens Invites the Tribes to Hold a Council at Walla Walla— The Council an Unfriendly one— Lack of Harmony between Stevens and Steptoe — Stevens Attacked by the Indians and is Rescued by Steptoe— A Block-House Built and Garrisoned and the Troops Return to The Dalles— Colonel Wright Leads an Expedition to Walla Walla — He holds a Council and Arranges a Peace upon the Grounds of

CONTENTS. X1U

Mutual Forgiveness for the " Late Unpleasantness " — Governor Stevens' Treaties and his Opinion of Wright's Treaty— Northern Indians Invade Puget Sound— Erection of Fort Walla Walla— Situation of Affairs in the Indian Country— Colonel Steptoe's Defeat in the Palouse Country— His Disastrous Retreat South of Snake River — A Record of Heroism and Cowardice — Colonel Wright Chastises the Indians at Medical Lake — The Spokanes, Yakimas and Palouses Sue for Peace and Surrender Unconditionally—Hostages Taken and Twelve Indians Hung— The Walla Wallns

Tamely Submit to the Hanging of Four of their Number 455

Chapter XXVIII

Aboriginal Inhabitants. — Character of the Indians of the Valley— Destructive Influences — Sources of Indian History — Extract from Lewis and Clarke's Narrative — Various Tribes Recounted — Their Locations— The Klickitat Invasion— The Chinook Family— Ethnology— Habits and Appearance — Tattooing — Clothing — Habitations — Food — Easy Ways of Life — Salmon Catching — Canoes — Tribal Government — Weapons — Habits of War — Diseases and Treatment — The Vapor Bath — Disposition of Dead Bodies — Influence of the Missions— Antiquities of Linn County — Their Probable Origin — Indian Names of Localities — Good Taste Demands their

Perpetuation 478

Chapter XXIX

History of Railways.— Primitive Ideas— Pioneer Railway Projects— Elliott's Plan of a Railway from Portland to California — Incorporation of the Astoria & Willamette R. R. Co.— Names of the Incorporators — The East Side Railway — Ben Holladay — The Oregon Central R. R. Co. — Anecdote — Need of Railways— The West Side R. R. Co.— A Railroad Boom in Oregon—Effect of the Introduction of Railways— Public Opinion— Dissolution of the Oregon Central, and Organization of the Oregon and California Company — Officers of the New Company — River Transportation — Holladay Buys a Newspaper— Its Character— Issue of Bonds of the O. & C. R. R.— Completion of the Railway to Roseburg— Want of Economy— Cessation of Railway Building— Resumption of Work in 1883— Railways Needed in Southern Oregon— The Railroad Leased to the Oregon and Transcontinental Co.— The West Side Road- Holladay 's Shrewdness— Portland's Princely Gift— Progress of the West Side Road— Two Factions— Exit Holladay— Land Grants— The Conqueror Appears— A Giant's Plans— Villard — The Narrow-Gauge Road — The Oregon Pacific — Railroad Lands —

Railway Officials— Concluding Remarks 491

Chapter XXX

Description of the Willamette Valley.— Boundaries of the Valley— Dimensions — Streams — Mountains — Cascade Range — Peaks — The Minto Pass — Coast Range — Animal Inhabitants— Trapping and Hunting- Distances — Elevation of Places on the Willamette River— Lands— Prairie and Timbered Lands — Those First Taken Up— Foothill Lands— Their Importance and Great Value — Brush Lands— Advantages — Location — Unoccupied Lands of Value— Altitude of Vacant Lands— How Brush Lands are Cleared— Railroad and Government Land— Amount of Vacant Land in the Valley— Railroad Grants— Timbered Sections— Catalogue of Forest Trees— Valuable Sorts— Trees Which Grow on Low Lands— Conjectures Regarding the Amount of Timber now Standing — Effect of Denuding the Land of Trees — Injurious Results Predicted— Forest Fires Produce Vast Damage and Should be Prevented 513

XIV CONTENTS.

Chapter XXXI

Climate and Geology. — Peculiarities of Climate — Distinctions of the Seasons — Particular Seasons — Table of Pleasant, Rainy. Stormy and Snowy Days —Averages of Each— Tables of Maximum, Minimum and Mean Temperatures and Rainfall for Thirteen Years— Table of Monthly and Annual Mean Temperatures for Nine Localities — Geology — Dynamical Geology — Sandstone the Prevailing Sedimentary Formation — It belongs to the Tertiary Age— Newer Deposits — Erosion of Sandstone Strata — Fossils of Tertiary Mammals— The Volcanic Rocks— Whence They Came— Enormous Extent— Composed of Basalt— Volcanic Buttes in the Upper Part of the Valley— Composition of the Cascade Range— Glaciers — Mines— Santiam Gold Mines— Bohemia Districts-Other Minerals— Iron Ore— Important Developments at Oswego — Ore Beds Worked and Furnaces Erected — Sketch of the Operations There— Quality of Product— Soils Considered— Origin of Rich Basalt Soils— Their Constant Renewal— Red Hills — Mixed Soils — Valley Loams the Result of Disintegration and Alluvial Action 529

Chapter XXXII

Grain Products.— Wheat the Staple Production— Its Earliest Cultivation- Impetus Given by Mining — Laxity of the State Government in the Matter of Statistics — Want of a Policy — Flour Successfully Made — Its Quality Never Elsewhere Surpassed — Wheat Crop Never Fails — Wheat the Principal Factor in Commercial Affairs — Why Farmers raise Wheat — Objections Thereto — Persistent Wheat-Raising will Impoverish the Country — Statistics — Productiveness and Endurance of the Soils — Cost per Bushel to Raise Wheat — Influence of the Railways upon Wheat-Growing — Increase of the Business from 1869 — Its Probable Future — Its Possible Production — Varieties Cultivated — Wheat Crop of 1880 — Other Grain Products— Oats a Favorite Crop— Immense Production— Indian Corn not a Success— Barley— Table of Production of Wheat, Oats, Corn and Barley 547

Chapter XXXIII

Other Field Products. — Flax— Well Adapted to the Lands of the Willamette—Linseed Oil— Table of Flax Production — Quality— Hops a Certain and V aluable Crop — Table— Hay— Clover — Grasses— Vegetables — Potatoes — Market Gardening a Profitable Industry— Table — Fruit — Apples, Pears and Prunes the Principal Varieties— Markets— History of Apple-Raising— William Meek— Present Condition of Orchards— Yield of Apples— Dealings with San Francisco— Mode of Culture— Fruit Drying— Importance of the Industry— Prospective Growth— Prunes— Plums— Peaches— Future of Fruit-Growing— Berries— Wild Species— Table Showing the Production of Principal Varieties and Value of Orchard Products— Beet Sugar and Potato Starch 560