Siberia and Central Asia

Preface

This book is the result of a trip through Siberia and Central Asia, made by the author during the summer and autumn of last year. It consists mostly of letters written by him while on the journey, which were published by several Western newspapers.

Owing to the great and increasing importance of the Eastern Question, the author has thought that it might be of interest to his friends to have these letters put into a more permanent form, illustrated by many views taken by him at that time. These views in themselves may, perhaps, be his best excuse for the book, as they give a better and clearer idea of these great regions than any words of his can convey.

As the Eastern Question hinges largely upon the position of Russia, the author undertook this trip for the purpose of studying that country at short vi PREFACE

range; and, owing to exceptional privileges granted to him, he has been led to think that the results of his observations there may serve as a contribution to the better understanding of that question. He has, therefore, issued this book for private circulation, and asks the indulgence of his readers for a work thrown off during the excitement and fatigue of a long journey in new and most interesting lands.

J. W. B.

Springfield, Ohio, April, 1899.

Chapter I

Trans-Siberian railway — Its commercial and political importance — The effect it has already produced — Russia's military strength — Napoleon's estimate of Russian soldiers — Probable international complications to arise from Russia's industrial advance eastward — Our own relation thereto — General features of the Trans-Siberian railway — The trains and their equipment — Travel on the post-routes of Russia — Humane law respecting horses

Chapter II

The Russian steppes — Their similarity to the prairies and plains of the United States — The lands of Russia — Geological division of the same — The great Tschernoziom lands of Russia — Their capacity and products — System of farming in Russia — The yearly production of cereals — Exports of same — Russian live stock and export statistics — Manufacturing and mining industries — Culture of Indian corn — Population of Russia — Distribution of same — The rural and urban population of Russia — Dwellings and other buildings in the villages ........

Chapter III

Emancipation of the serfs — Peasants now great land-owners — Emancipation rescript of Alexander 11. , in 1861 — Condition of the serfs prior to this act — General provisions of emanciviii CONTENTS pation rescript — Obligatory redemption of lands — ^Measures to facilitate same — Distribution and allotment of lands to the serfs — Division of serfs into three categories — Effects of emancipation act — Its tendency to lessen conflict between capital and labor — Devotion of the peasant to his lot acquired by this act — An impediment to emigration to Siberia and other distant lands — Russia's position in the probable clash of nations — Number of serfs liberated under the emancipation act — Date of the proclamation — The peaceful accomplishment of this great act — Peace rescript of the present Czar — Is Russia rightly understood by other nations ? . 32

' CHAPTER IV :

Stations and restaurants on Siberian Railway — Equipment and safety of road — Syzran on the Volga River — The Tartar — Bridge on Siberian railway over the Volga River — The Volga, its size and importance as a highway — First view of the Ural Mountains — Their height, etc. — The city of Zlatoust — Government works and mines in the Ural Mountains — Summit of the Urals — Entrance into Siberia — Some facts concerning the Russian Empire — Eastern slope of the Ural Mountains — Crop conditions in the Volga Valley — A look ahead 43

Chapter V

The Asiatic continent — A glance at Siberia, its geography, physical characteristics, etc. — The great rivers of Siberia — Erroneous impression of Siberia — Vast area of level land — No difficulty in construction of railway — Similarity of Western Siberia to a great portion of the United States — The error of Americans respecting trans-Missouri River country — The route of the Siberian Railway — Its construction and equipment — Stations on railway in Siberia — Track, bridsfes, etc. — Accumulated g-rain on the route from

CONTENTS ix

PAGE

Kurgan to Tomsk — The necessity for increased facilities on Siberian Railway — Flora and fauna of Siberia — Agricultural resources of Siberia — Possibilities of the country . ']2i

Chapter VI

Ultimate Siberian railway system — Proposed line from Central Siberia to the Persian Gulf — New relations between Russia and China, arising from the Siberian Railway — Change from route as originally projected — New route to Vladivostok — Rapid settlement of country on Siberian Railway — Quick growth of towns on the line — Development of lands to follow railway extension— Grazing lands on Siberian Railway — Small lakes through Siberia— Timber in Western Siberia. 103

Chapter VII

Kurgan on the Tobol River — The Kirghiz Tartars — Their tents, villages, mode of life, etc. — The future of Kurgan — Winters in Siberia — No blizzards in Western Siberia — Rainfall — Petropavlovsk on the Ishim River — Rapid change in country on railway line — Emigrant trains eastward — Growth of grains on the line of railway — Surplus awaiting shipment — Omsk on the Irtish and Om rivers — Interesting character — Tomsk on the Tom River — The prison in Tomsk — Flourishing college— Electric lights, telephone system, and other conveniences — Condition of railroad east of Tomsk — Various excursions from Tomsk into the country . . . 123

Chapter VIII

Travelling on post and common roads in Russia and Siberia — Unique outfit — Splendor of private equipages — A Siberian tarantass — Manner of hitching the horses — Speed discomforts and excitement of travel on tarantass— Seeing Tartar life in its simplicity — A queer-looking vehicle — Homely but effective — Experience versus philosophy — Furious driving —

CONTENTS

The village sheik — A compatriot of the great Circassian, Schemyl — A Mohammedan — His family life — Beauty and filial devotion of his children — His wives — Influence of the wife among the Kalmucks — Kirghiz village — Hospitality of our host — Our Yamstchik — His style and skill as a driver — Great speed of horses without use of whip — Return to Tomsk — Various modes of travel . . . . .152

Chapter IX

Return westward — Route across the Kirghiz steppes to the Caspian Sea — Down the Volga River to Astrakhan — Rise and commercial importance of that city — Modern trade diversion and its effects — Russia a land of fairs — Nijni Novgorod and its great fair — Kharkov, Ilinsk, and other leading fairs — Preferred route across the Caspian Sea to Central Asia — Importance of the Volga River as a means of transportation — Numerous fleets of coal-oil barges — Statistics of freight traffic on the Volga and Onega system — Partiality of Russians for American products and methods .... 192

Chapter X

Development of Siberian agricultural resources — Its effect upon similar interests in other countries— Prime conditions governing the future reclam.ation of lands in Siberia — Waterways of Russia — Careful development of same — River system in Siberia — Severity of winters restrict their use — Season of navigation — Omsk as a centre of a vast cereal region — Its possible connections by water and rail with foreign countries — Necessity for greater transportation facilities in Western Siberia — New route being created from Omsk to the Baltic — New route between Russia and Western Siberia— From Omsk to Havre or London— Comparative distances .......... 212

CONTENTS xi

Chapter XI Page

Transportation route in Southwestern Siberia — Route between Caspian and Black seas — To connect the Volga and Don rivers — All-waterway between Caspian Sea and Europe — Neglect of American waterways — Careful preservation of same in Europe — Methods of utilizing rivers in Europe for transportation purposes — Use of the Seine in France — Through the heart of France in a boat — Neglect and decay of American rivers as lines of transport — Railways versus water transportation — What would result from thorough development of American river system — Russia's real progress — Great foresight — Not doomed to the fate of China — Russia in the field of diplomacy — The official class — Redundant population — Its danger to all nations — Unwisdom of developing urban at the expense of the rural population — Results in the necessity for land-grabbing — Wise policy underlying settlement of Siberia — Plan of settlement — Conserving old vested interests — Deterrent influences in settlement of Siberia — Rapid growth of population — Its current necessities — Probable effect of Siberia upon markets in other countries . . . . . . . ... 224

Chapter XII

Russian life in Siberia — Visiting various villages — Siberian towns and villages — Mostly frame or log houses — Efl"orts at ornamentation — Number and appointment of rooms — Clothing of the natives — The Icon — The Russian peasant most religious — In the peasant's home — A mark of respect never to be omitted — Custom of recognizing the Icon in Russia universal — Fare of the peasant— A singular bathroom — The drink of the peasant — Two kinds of quass — Vodka, its use and effects — Salutary regulations by the government — Worthy of imitation by other nations — Siberia the land of the exile — Erroneous impression of the traveller — Courtesy of Russian officials — Abolition of serfdom — Its effects contrasted with abolition of slavery in America — Administraxii CONTENTS tion of justice — Respect for law and authority — Difficulties encountered by Russia in its development — Obstacles to its progress — Remarkable national development — Banishment of bank officials to Siberia — Their status during and after term of sentence — Punished for fraud at gaming — Not a good country for irregular practices — Passport system — Citizens of Russia required to have passport — Registration of same, fee, etc. — Effects of the passport system— Special passport required to leave Russia — Beneficial results of same 240

Chapter XIII

Passenger boats on the Caspian Sea — New lines of steamers — Petrovsk, on the Caspian — Excursion into the mountains — New railway to Baku — Great through line to Central Asia — Important influence of the Trans-Caspian Railway upon the world's affairs — Extension of same into China — Distance and time by this route to China — Direct and short route to Northern India — Projected line of railway from Orenburg to Tashkent — Ambitions of Russia in a new field — Great canal between the Black Sea and the Baltic — Great commercial and strategic importance of same — Steady and persistent progress of Russia — Her advance not rapid, but secure — Does not vaunt her enterprises — Effects upon political world of Trans-Caspian Railway to be greater than the Trans-Siberian Railway — Nev^ route from Merv to Herat — Its probable influence on Afghanistan — Projected lines into Persia — Line being built from Armenia to Northern Persia — Important results to arise therefrom in that country — New line projected from Samarkand southward to Karshi — That city the key to Northeastern Afghanistan — Possibility of formidable attack of Russia upon Northern India via Central Asia — No combination of powers could stay it — Unimportant part naval forces would play in such a contest — Russia's contiguous territory and interior operations a manifest advantag-e — Such a conflict m.ight require the whole power of Great Britain to repel — Russia's peace proposal — Her sin-

CONTENTS xiii cerity in same — Prefers peaceful methods to those of war — Her superior strategical position — May not Russia's evident advantage over India operate to preserve peace ? — The fortunate position of America in the event of a great Asiatic war ......,,,.. 261

Chapter XIV

The great city of Baku — Its rapid growth — Cause of same — Still growing rapidly — The petroleum deposits in the Caucasus — Number of wells in operation — Limited exploration in Caucasian oil fields — New field north of the Caucasian range of mountains — Output of the oil wells in 1897 — Stories current in Baku — A lucky Tartar — Wonderful wells — Refineries in "Black Town," near Baku — Crude oil extensively used as fuel in Southern Russia — Desire to visit Central Asia — Importance of that country politically — The key to India, Western China, and perhaps Constantinople — Intricacies of European politics — India the real storm-centre — India indispensable to England's power and greatness— Her anxiety and efforts to preserve same — Her fear of Russia's designs upon India — Has relied upon her great navy — Her naval strength would avail but little to check Russia's advance through Central Asia — Russia's railway building in Asia regarded as a menace to India — The "gospel of the machine" — Russian railway advance in Asia — Desire for alliances — The open door — Cautious measures of Russia in her Central Asian possessions . . , , . . 281

Chapter XV

Admission into Trans-Caspian country — Military railway — Special permit necessary in Trans-Caspian region — Across Northern Persia — On the Araxes River — First view of Mt. Ararat — Crossing the Araxes — Mt. Ararat — Grandeur of same — Ascent of Ararat — Armenian Cemetery — Across the xiv CONTENTS

PAGE

Araxes Valley — Erivan, the capital of Armenia — Mosques, palaces, etc. — Change under Russian rule — New railway line south of Erivan — Markets in Erivan — The great-tailed sheep — On the road to the Caucasus— Last view of Mt. Ararat — Curious religious sects — Picturesque Lake ofGoktcha — Height above the sea — The ancient monastery of Sevanga — Over the Delijan Pass — Descent of northern slope of Armenian mountains — Arrival at Akstafa on the Kura River . 294

Chapter XVI

The Caucasus — Its locality and extent — The Kura River — The Rion River — Area of the Caucasus — Population of the same • — Mountain ranges — The Greater and Lesser Caucasian Mountains joined by the Suram range — Climate of Caucasia — Products of the soil — Statistics of live stock — Valleys in Eastern Caucasus — Western Caucasia — Roads — Military road from Tiflis to Vladikavkaz — Roads in Southern Caucasia and Armenia — Caucasia the gateway between Europe and Asia — Different races — Tiflis, the capital of Georgia — Its buildings, streets, etc. — The Georgian chieftain, Schemyl — The population of Tiflis — Many military and civil officials — A trip to Borjom, Abbas-Tuman, and Kutais . . 328

Chapter XVII

Tiflis to Mtskheta — Great antiquity of that city — Founded by near descendant of Noah — Interesting old bridge — Pompey's conquest of this country — Route over the famous Dariel Pass — Journey up the valley of the Kura River — Soil and climate of the Caucasus — Agricultural operations — Various cereals and other products — Indian corn — Primitive implements — Cattle and buffaloes used to draw the plough — Cooperative operations — Remarkable results in the production of grain in the Caucasus — The cart or arba — The new line of the Trans-Caucasian railway — Petroleum

CONTENTS XV

PAGE

pipe line over Suram Mountains — On the road to Borjom — From Borjom to Abbas-Tuman — Over the Lesser Caucasian Mountains — Soldiers for escorts — Brigands — Magnificent view from summit — Kutais — Its history and importance — Rich valley of the Rion — Return to Tiflis . . 349

Chapter XVIII

Return to Tiflis — Special permit to visit Central Asia — Great courtesy of the American Ambassador, Hon. E. A. Hitchcock — Return to Baku — Passage across the Caspian Sea — Arrival at Krasnovodsk — A look about that city — Rapid growth of same — Its harbor and other natural advantages — Will become an important city — Railway station — Splendid structure — Curious mixture of natural products — Blending of Oriental and Occidental races — Possible result — Russia's fondness for American products — Use of same in Russia — Her probable future demand for Western products — America's opportunity — Trains on the Trans-Caspian Railway — Courtesy of the railway officials — Emigrants to the far East — Departure from Krasnovodsk — New petroleum field — Minerals and metals here — Uzum-Ada, the old terminus of railway — The plains of Turcomania — Persian Mountains — Central Asia — A vast depressed basin — Caspian Sea below ocean level — Similar depression in Sahara Desert — Russia's Central Asian possessions — Sterility of Turcomania due to lack of rainfall — Oasis of Merv — Strabo's reference to it — Three great level plateaus — Amu-Dariaand Syr-Daria Rivers ........ 379

Chapter XIX

The old bed of the Amu-Daria River — Across a desert — Oasis of Kizyl-Arvat — Among the Turcomanians — A splendid race — His dwelling — Women in Turcomania — Custom of polygamy — Purchase of wives — Weaving of rugs and carpets — xvi CONTENTS

Their crude device for same — Work done mainly by girls — Inferiority of the new to the old product — Wealth of the Turcoman — Their food, clothing-, etc. — The camel — Roads in Turcomania — Caravans of camels — Along the Persian border — Askabad — New and beautiful city — Vegetable products of this region — Culture of cotton — Old Teke towns 399

Chapter XX

Location of towns on Russian railways — Her occupation of new countries — Dushak, the southern point of the road — Irrigation of oasis of Merv — New city of Merv^Railway from Merv to Herat — Confidence of Russia in Central Asia — Growth of cotton — The ancient city of Merv — Extraordinary mounds — Homeof Kuldja Khan — Curious custom of naming women — Fertility of the oasis of Merv — Pasture land and jungles — Wild animals — In the old city of Merv — Its extent and history — Complete desolation — Home of wild beasts — Former population — Founded by Alexander the Great — Its destruction 422

Chapter XXI

At Bairom-Ali — Imperial palace — From fertile fields to burning sands — March of Alexander through the desert — From sterile sands to fruitful fields — The Amu-Daria River — Its length, etc. — Quantity of water in the Amu-Daria— Great railway bridge being erected over the Amu-Daria — Possible diversion of the course of this great river — The slow and vast operations of nature — Immense deposits of this great river — Karakul — Rearing of the sheep here known as Persian lamb .....*... 448

Chapter XXII

Bokhara — Courtesy of Russian officials — The Ameer of Bokhara — Area and population of Bokhara — Its destruction by the Tartars — The ruling race — The Usbegs inferior to the

CONTENTS xvii

PAGE

Turcomans — Mosques and colleges — The mosque of Tamerlane in the Reghistan — Inferior to the ruins of Samarkand — Palace of the Ameer of Bokhara — Citadel of Alp- Arslan —Bazaars in Bokhara — Buildings, etc. — Customs, police regulations, etc. — Vices and virtues of the Bokharians — Temperance among the inhabitants — An agreeable contrast — Introduction of opium into Central Asia — An instructive incident 466

CHAPTER XXIIl

Bokhara to Samarkand — Residence of Governor of Turkestan — His great civility — Beauty of Samarkand — Avenues of acacias and poplars — The old city of Samarkand — In ruins, but picturesque — Once a great capital — Splendor under the Arabs and under Tamerlane — A seat of learning — Architecture in old city of Samarkand — Colleges in Samarkand — Mosques, tombs, and palaces — The Shah-Zindah — The Tilla-Kari and Khanym — Exquisite effect of tessellated tiles — The great mosque erected by sister of Tamerlane — Similarity of architecture between Central Asia and that of the Moguls in India — A huge pulpit and voluminous Koran . 493

Chapter XXIV

Medressehs or colleges in Samarkand — The tomb of Tamerlane — The sarcophagus of the great Tartar — Interior ornamentation — The Russian citadel — Kok-Tash, or throne of Tamerlane — The Shadman-Melik — Its peculiar construction — Excursion in the mountains — The beauty of Samarkand — Reminiscences of Alexander the Great — Social customs, etc. — Polygamy — Peculiar equipage ..... 514

Chapter XXV

Natives, or Sarts — Seeing native life and customs — Dinner at the residence of the Amban or native mayor of Samarxviii CONTENTS kand — Our host and his guests — Oriental features of the occasion — Brilliant surroundings — The Russians — The dances — No women as dancers — Boy dancers dressed in the habits of women — The music of the Sart — At first unpleasant — Wherein lies the charm of Oriental music — Due to rhythm — Influence hypnotic— Similar emotional state of howling and dancing dervishes — The dinner — Various native dishes, Kiabab, Cavourna, Pilaf, etc. — Oriental dancing — Producing similar effects by rhythm of motion — Concluding reflections ........ 531

Visaed Passport, used by the Author in his Travels in Siberia

and Central Asia ....... Frontispiece

PAGE

Trans-Siberian Railway Train — Observation Compartment in

Rear Car 7

Railway Officials on Trans-Siberian Railway Train

Russian Isvoshtchik, or Droshky Drivers

A Russian Patyorka, or Five-horse Team

Group of Peasants in Russian Village . . .

Russian Peasant's Log Cabin in Commune or Village .

A Village on the Russian Steppes .....

Syzran on the Volga River ......

Samara on the Volga River ......

Batraki on the Volga River ......

Great Bridge across the Volga River at Batraki on the Trans

Siberian Railway .......

Russian Village on the Ufa River

First View of the Ural Mountains after passing Wajsao

waja, Trans-Siberian Railway ..... The Western Slope of the Ural Mountains on the Trans

Siberian Railway, between Ufa and Zlatoust . Station at Zlatoust on Trans-Siberian^ Railway near the Sum

mit of the Ural Mountains .....

Monument on Summit of Ural Mountains indicating Divid

ing Line between Europe and Asia Eastern Slope of the Ural Mountains on the Trans-Siberian

Railway, Midway between Zlatoust and Tscheljabinsk Eastern Slope of Ural ^vlountains on Trans-Siberian Railway

Eigrhtv I\Iiles from the Summit of the Ural Mountains

51 ':>?>

XX

On Trans-Siberian Railway just before arriving at Tschiel-

Railway Station at Tscheljabinsk, the End of the First Section

of Trans-Siberian Railway, at the Eastern Foot of Ural

Entering- the Plains or Steppes of Siberia on the Trans-Siberian

Railway, One Hundred Miles East of the Ural Mountains 63 Crossing the Siberian Steppes, Two Hundred Miles East of the

Ural Mountains, on the Siberian Railway Kirghiz Tartar Aul or Village on Siberian Steppes View across Siberian Steppes, Three Hundred Miles East of

the Ural Mountains .......

Group of Kirghiz Tartars at Station on Siberian Railway

On Siberian Steppes, Three Hundred and Fifty Miles East of

Ural Mountains .....

On Siberian Steppes, Eight Hundred Miles East of Ural

Mountains

View across the Irtish River, Siberia

Station on Siberian Railway, Four Hundred

Ural Mountains ....

View across the Ishim River, Siberia On the Tom River, Siberia New Settlement on Open Steppes of Siberia,

Miles East of Ural Mountains On Siberian Steppes or Prairies, Four Hundred and Fifty Miles

East of the Ural Mountains ......

On Siberian Steppes, between Kurgan and Petropavlovsk Two Views across Siberian Steppes .....

View across Siberian Steppes, Five Hundred Miles East of th(

Ural Mountains ........

Kirghiz Tartars and Camel Train on Siberian Steppes Railway Bridge over the Obi River on Siberian Railway . Railway Station on Siberian Railway, Eight Hundred Miles East of Ural Mountains, or over Two Thousand Miles East of Moscow ......... 91

Station on Siberian Railway ....... 92

Miles East o

Six Hundred

64 65

68 69

72 74

81 82 83

PAGE

Sacked Grain awaiting Shipment at the Station on Siberian Railway between Omsk and Tomsk, over One Thousand Miles East of the Ural Mountains . . . . -93

Passenger Train for Ordinary Service on Trans-Siberian Railway, making Daily Trips to Tomsk, nearly Three Thousand Miles East of Moscow ....... 94

View on the Siberian Steppes, between the Tobol and Ishim Rivers. Emigrant Train crossing the Steppes to occupy New Lands .......... 95

On the Open Steppes of Siberia, about One Thousand Mi'es East of the Ural Mountains, or nearly Two Thousand Four Hundred Miles East of Moscow ...... 96

View across Siberian Prairies ....... 97

Distant Herd of Cattle on Siberian Plains or Steppes . . 98

Emigrants at Railway Station between Kainsk and Tomsk on

the Trans-Siberian Railway ....... 99

New Settlement on Siberian Railway, One Thousand Miles

East of the Ural Mountains . ...... 102

View across the Siberian Steppes, Nine Hundred Miles East of the Ural Mountains, or about Two Thousand Two Hundred Miles East of Moscow ...... 104

Recent Settlement on Siberian Railway, One Thousand One

Hundred Miles East of Ural Mountains .... 105

Recent Settlement on Siberian Railway, Nine Hundred and

Fifty Miles East of Ural Mountains ..... 107

New Settlement on Siberian Railway, Two Thousand Five Hundred Miles East of Moscow, between Obb and Tomsk ........... 109

New Settlement on Trans-Siberian Railway, One Thousand One Hundred Miles East of the Urals, and between Kriwostchekowo and Kainsk . . . . . . .110

Church in New Town of Obb iii

New Settlement on Siberian Railway, One Thousand Two Hundred and Fifty Miles East of the Urals, or about Two Thousand Five Hundred Miles East of Moscow . . .113

XXll

Station on the Open Steppes of Siberia on the Trans-Siberian Railway, over One Thousand Miles East of the Ural Mountains, and about Two Thousand Two Hundred Miles East of Moscow .........

On the Siberian Steppes or Prairies, over One Thousand Miles East of the Ural Mountains, and about Two Thousand Two Hundred Miles East of Moscow . . . . .

On the Siberian Steppes, between the Ishim and Irtish Rivers, on the Line of the Siberian Railway

Recent Settlement on Siberian Railway, between the Obi and Tom Rivers, about Two Thousand Four Hundred Miles East of Moscow

Lake on the Siberian Steppes

Emigrants on Siberian Steppes^ East of the Obi River

Chapel in recently settled Town on Siberian Railway

Station at Kurgan, Siberian Railway .

Kirghiz Tartar, Camels, and Camel Cart .

Kirghiz Yurt, or Tent, and Group of Tartars on the Siberian Steppes, between Kurgan and Petropavlovsk

Tartar Camel Train on Siberian Steppes .

Church in New Siberian Village of Kirghiz

Omsk, on

A Tartar Dug-out on Road South of Omsk

On the Post-route from Petropavlovsk to Omsk .

Station at Petropavlovsk, Siberian Railway. Group

Tartars .......

Street Scene in Omsk ......

Emigrants at Station, between Petropavlovsk and

Siberian Railway . . . . . .

Street Scene in Tomsk .....

On the Steppes of Siberia, East of Kurgan . Street Scene in Tomsk .....

Distant View of Tomsk

Market Scene in Tomsk .....

Village in Siberia, in the Tom River Valley, on the Post-route

from Tomsk to Tobolsk .......

115 116

117 118 119 121

124 125

127 129 131 133 135

137 139

143 144

145 145

XXlll

Emigrant Train between Petropavlovsk and Omsk, Two Thiou-

sand Miles East of Moscow ....... 149

View on Post-route, between Tomsk and Irkutsk . . . 151 Patyorka, a Five-horse Team on Siberian Steppes . . -153 Another Mode of Travelling- in Siberia ..... 155

Siberian Tarantass . . . . . . . . -157

Native waiting for Ferry on Tom River . . . . .160

Crossing Tom River, Siberia, on a Rude Ferry-boat . . . 161

At the Post-house 163

Taking Tea " Al Fresco" wnth a Russian Family at Post-house ........... 165

Russian Village on Post-route, South of Tomsk, Siberia . . 167 Ready to Start. At the Post-house on Post-route, South of

Tomsk, in Direction toward Semipalatinsk .... 168

Cathedral in Tomsk ......... 169

Kirghiz Tartar Family on Siberian Steppes. The Tartar Yurt

or Tent 173

Great Forty-ton Bell at Cathedral in Tomsk . . . .177 On the Turf at Tomsk ........ 179

On the Home Stretch 181

Washerwomen at Tomsk ........ 185

Railway Station on Siberian Railway, between the Obi and Tom Rivers, about One Thousand One Hundred Miles East of

the Ural Mountains 187

Station on the Trans-Siberian Railway, between Tomsk and

Tiaga 189

Street Scene in Astrakhan 193

On the Volga River . . . . . . . . -195

Fire Worshippers' Temple in Astrakhan 196

The Kremlin in Astrakhan ....... 197

Scene on the Landing at Astrakhan ...... 199

View of the Upper Town of Nijni Novgorod, on North Bank of

the Volea 201

Town on the Volga River, between Kazan and Nijni Novgorod

View of Nijni Novgorod, where the Great Fair is held, on South Side of the Volga ........

Picturesque Formation on the Volga River, Two Hundred Miles above Astrakhan .........

The Cathedral in Nijni Novgorod ......

Watermelon Market at Landing on the Volga River, between Simbirsk and Saratov ........

Fishing Village on the Obi River, Siberia . . . , .

Town on the Lower Volga River ......

View across Tom River, Siberia ......

Ferry-boat on Tom River, Siberia ......

Houses for Storage of Grain and Wheat in Sacks awaiting Shipment at New Railway Station, Eight Hundred Miles East of the Ural Mountains, on Trans-Siberian Railway

Scene on the Irtish River, Siberia ......

View across the Irtish River, Siberia ......

View across the Tom River, Siberia ......

Wharf-boat and Landing on Volga River, below Tzaritzin