Canyon and crater; or, scenes in California and the Sandwich islands

Preface

The tour of which this volume is an imperfect record was originally undertaken with a view chiefly to the restoration of the author's health; and in that respect, if in no other, it proved a gratifying success. In no quarter of the globe can there be found a climate more friendly to the human constitution than that of California and the Sandwich Islands. Of the two localities, the latter is entitled to the preference; and the only drawback upon its attractions is the long sea-voyage which the impatient traveler must endure before reaching the haven of his anticipations.

Of the personnel of the party, it may at least be said Jhat whatever it lacked jn numbers wais fully made up in harmony and enthusiasm. The individuals composing it were Prof. H. R. Geiger of Wittenberg College, Springfield, Ohio, the wife of the writer, and the last-mentioned personage himself. And it is proper in this connection to state that Prof.Oeiger's companionable qualities, and the zeal and fortitude with which he engaged in our many fatiguing excursions, contributed very largely to the enjoyment of the tour.

The account of our journey comprised in the following chapters was not written with a view to publication in this manner; nor is this volume designed for general circulation, but rather as a means of preserving to the author and conveying to his friends in a durable form the recollections of a somewhat memorable experience. For the literary imperfections of the following pages it is scarcely necessary to apologize. They were written in fragmentary portions, and to a great extent in the haste and amid the inconveniences of land or ocean travel, without opportunity for correction or revision. The motive of their production, moreover, has not been that of an aspirant to the honors of authorship, but a desire on the part of the writer to revive in some degree, in their subsequent perusal, the impressions made upon his fellow-travelers and himself by scenes of beauty and sublimity which an abler pen than his could but faintly describe.

JOHN W. BOOKWALTER.

Springfield, Ohio, 1874.

Contents

CHAP. PAGE.

I. Across the Plains and Over the Mountains 9

II. The Humboldt Valley and the Sierras 24

CHAPTER I. AcKOSS THE Plains and Over the Mountains

"The Great West'/'' How few there are who really know the true significance of this oft-repeated phrase. Whatever may be its significance, I am sure it but feebly conveys an idea of the truly wonderful character of the yet undeveloped country that lies west of the Missouri River. It is here we find the developments of nature on its grandest and most imposing scale ; and the uniformly vast proportions of all its operations constitute the distinctive feature of this country. It will of course be impossible for me to even glance at all the numberless objects of wonder abounding in this region, and I will therefore confine myself to

10 Acrofis the Plains

a brief notice of the more marked features of interest, qualified by what I may deem of value as well. As that part of our national domain lying east of the Missouri is no longer a new country, I select as a proper point of departure the western bank of that great river.

On taking the cars of the Union Pacific Railroad at Omaha, the country, for the space of a few miles, bears a very close resemblance to that of Iowa — beautifully undulating and covered with abundant verdure. But a complete change is suddenly wrought in the aspect of the country as the train abruptly plunges into the great valley of the Platte. So swift, indeed, is the transition, so great are the beauties that spread before the eye in all directions, that the change seems' the work of enchantment. Ohio -has its valleys of Scioto, of Miami and others not less cherished — Indiana its valley of the Wabash — but what are they in extent and fertility to the grieat Platte valley ? By a valley, in Ohio or Indiana, is meant a tract of land extending in a broken line contiguous to the river, and of very limited width. The term, to those who have never seen the great valleys of Nebraska, would seem not inaptly applied; but they are mere bottoms, strictly

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And Over the Mountains. 13

speaking, and not valleys in the sense in which one is accustomed to view them in this country. Think of a valley extending for three hundred miles in an unbroken, uniform, level tract, and of an average width of nearly thirty miles ; and some idea may be formed of the extent of this most wonderful valley that the sun shines upon. Wonderful as it would be by reason of its unusual area, it becomes a yet greater marvel when we reflect that it is of the highest grade of fertility.

Throughout its whole extent there is scarcely any waste land ; and the entire tract exceeds, in point of fertility, anything I have seen in other sections of the country. It is peculiarly adapted to withstand the droughts which are so far the only drawbacks to Nebraska. There seems to underlie throughout the whole valley a sub-stratum of sand and gravel of great depth. Upon this is superimposed a deep, rich alluvial soil varying in depth from two to six feet. The soil is adapted to the production of almost all kinds of grain, as I had occasion to notice ; corn, particularly, grows with singular luxuriance. The lands in this valley are as yet comparatively unoccupied, but are being rapidly settled up. It is a fine subject for

14^ Across the Plains

contemplation, as to what will be the future of this splendid valley — itself capable of supporting almost the entire population of the United States.

The Union Pacific Railroad has been much talked of, and many conflicting reports have been current as to the manner of its construction. Being desirous to ascertain as nearly as possible its real condition, I have from time to time made observations touching this point. The road-bed throughout its whole extent is most admirable, the soil being of such a nature as to admit of a very firm foundation ; and I must say that I have never traveled upon any road so free from dust. The track for the first hundred or perhaps two hundred miles is laid of iron, the rails seeming to be of insufficient weight; and being without the fish-bar joint, they have become much worn and laminated, rendering the road quite rough. With this exception, I found rails of a weight and laid in a manner fully equal to any road in the East. The cars are principally of the Pullman pattern, and of course commodious, convenient and pleasant. Altogether there are few roads in the country more pleasant to travel upon than the Union Pacific Railroad.

After leaving the Platte valley, you bid adieu

And Over the Mountains. 15

to all attractive country, and enter upon the confines of a region whose sterility and barrenness is only heightened by contrast with the wonderful richness of the valley just passed through. By an easy, uniform grade through a distance of several hundred miles, the summit of the Rocky Mountain range is reached. By much the same grade, the descent of the western slope is made. One cannot fail to notice a marked diflference in the geologic character of the Rocky Mountain range, compared with the Appalachian. Nowhere in the former are presented the rugged defiles and abrupt elevations, found in the latter. From this cause, the scenery of the Rocky Mountains, as seen from the cars, is much inferior to that of the Alleghanies. Much as has been said of the grand and imposing scenery immediately along the line of the Union Pacific road, I must confess I could not see it. The Weber and Echo canyons comprise, joar excellaice^the choice scenery on this road; yet to my mode of viewing, they cannot compare with the scenery where several railways cross the Alleghanies. There are indeed many distant views of mountain ranges that are really beautiful, particularly wheie they reveal the snow-capped peaks.

16 Across the Plains

After a journey of fifty-four hours, we reach Salt Lake City— a city perhaps more talked of and written about than any other in the United States. It lies near the eastern edge of a valley which is almost completely encircled by a bold range of mountains, Great Salt Lake being twenty miles to the west of the city. Though made to literally blossom as the rose. Salt Lake valley bears traces of its once sterile character. In viewing the great improvements and changes wrought in this country, one is bound to accord the highest respect to the wonderful people by whose magic louch the primitive desert was transformed into blooming gardens and fertile fields. On all hands you will see orchards teeming with their luscious fruits, and broad farms covered with the products of the toil of these patient and skillful husbandmen.

Salt Lake City is regularly laid out, with streets of great width, along which trees are planted, forming beautiful avenues throughout the whole city. There are many really fine public buildings, and the Temple, now in process of erection, is designed to be one of the grandest church edifices in the country. One of the most striking features of Mormon society is the wonderful variety of

And Over the Mountains. 19

character. Among this people are to be found men of all professions and crafts — artisans in every branch of industry, and of singular excellence. One is compelled to admire the skill which, without resources other than those developed within themselves, has erected buildings and produced works of art that will compare not unfavorably with those of an older and more favored community. In the Tabernacle, a large building devoted to Mormon worship, I found an organ which is said to be the second in size in the United States, of excellent construction and finish. Imagine my surprise when I was informed that it was entirely the work of these people — all the material entering into it being made, and the whole wrought together, by their own hands.

Just now the absorbing topic here is the silver mines which have so suddenly developed in this territory. On the cars, at the hotels and elsewhere, nothing is talked of but traces, leads, feet and other mining technicalities, to the unitiated a confounding jumble. Only eighteen months since the silver mines of Utah were almost unknown. To-day they take rank with the most productive ever yet discovered. While under the present excitement many wild rumors and extrav-

20 Across the Plains

agant reports will of course be circulated concerning the new found treasures of Utah, yet when these are divested of all exaggeration we may safely say that so far as developed the Utah mines are far superior in point of richness and abundance of ore to any yet discovered in this country. While there are hundreds of mines whose existence is attested only by the mining records of the territory, and others daily being discovered, there are quite a number in actual operation, yielding most handsome returns. The most celebrated mine yet worked is the Emma, in what is called the Cottonwood district. The products of these mines are of a kind called the smelting ore. It is all shipped at present to Swansea, Wales, where it is worked up — a fact showing how exceedingly crude and imperfect are our facilities for the working of ore. The Emma Mining Co. are shipping to the above-named point about one hundred tons of ore per day.

The Eureka Mining Company of Utah have perhaps the most valuable and extensive claims in the territory, and are making rapid preparations to work up their ore. They . have now on hand, ready for the mills, over five thou-

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And Over the MoUfTitains. 23

sand tons of ore, which will yield an average of over $100 per ton.

Rich and extensive as are the silver mines of Utah, they will perhaps aiford in the future but a repetition of mining experiences in other districts. A few will make immense fortunes and many will be disappointed. Yet, judging from the richness of the ore and its accessibility as compared with other mining districts of the West, the future of mining in Utah must certainly be much more promising than any hitherto opened by similar discoveries.

While in the city I enjoyed a very pleasant interview with G. W. Cannon, editor of the Deseret News, the official organ of the Mormon Church. I found him a genial, pleasant gentleman, and learned of him many facts relating to the history of the country. The Deseret News is an enterprising, ably edited paper of large circulation, and celebrated as being the oldest paper west of the Missouri river.

24 The Humholdt Valley

CHAPTER II. The Humboldt Valley and the Sierras

Taking the cars of the Utah Central Kailroad, we make immediate connection with the Central Pacific Railroad for the West at Ogden, which is temporarily the compromise junction of these two routes ; and here, strange to say, an entire change, bag and baggage, has to be made by the worn and weary traveler who for the past three days has sweltered in the dust of Illinois and Iowa, the sands of Nebraska and the alkali of Wyoming. Whatever justification there may be, if indeed there can be any, for this singular want of co-operation between these two great companies, it is to be hoped, for the comfort of through passengers, that the day is not far distant when the difiiculties existing may be so far adjusted as to permit at least a through car to make the entire trip from Omaha to San Francisco. But the ways of railroad corporations are peculiar, and beyond the ken of

BLUE CANYON.

And the Sierras. 27

ordinary mortals ; and whatever may be the considerations determining their action, it can hardly be said that the comfort of the traveling public enters into or modifies it.

Geographically speaking, the Central Pacific Railroad may be said to comprise three great divisions — that bisecting the great interior basin lying between the Rocky and Sierra Nevada mountains ; the mountain pass of the Sierras ; and the valleys of California — each division being peculiar and distinct in its geologic conformations, and every characteristic of surface and productions.

Through the eastern part of the interior basin, or what may be called the first division, there is nothing worthy of note to be seen, save occasional distant mountain views which are really fine, after which stretches on either hand a desert presenting to the view only desolation vast and illimitable — nothing but a dreary waste, unrelieved by anything that would gladden the eye or cheer the heart of the traveler, who each succeeding hour grows more weary of the dreadful monotony. To one accustomed to dense forests and prolific vegetation, these nude and desolate plains ofi"er a most uninviting prospect. For several hundred miles the road follows, as to its general direction, the

^2S The HuTTbholdt Valley valley of the Humboldt river — a stream hardlyworthy the name of river. It is possessed of no interest except as affording an exception to the ordinary rule governing the growth of a river, which is, to increase in size as it increases in length. The contrary is the case with this strange river, which steadily decreases in size as it approaches its mouth ; so that it not unfre([uently entirely dries up long before it reaches its final destination in the Humboldt Lake — a body of water like the Great Salt Lake, apparently without an outlet. Such are some of the strange vagaries manifest in the works of nature in this marvellous region.

The pass of the railroad through the Sierra Nevadas is certainly a most wonderful achievement of modern engineering, and I believe not equaled in this country, if in any other. Whatever may be said of the tameness of the mountain scenery along the Union Pacific R. R., it most assuredly does not apply to that along the Central Pacific R. R. Throughout almost the whole descent of the western slope of the Sierras, the sublimity of the scenery is beyond description, and the most imposing views along the lines of eastern railroads shrink into comparative insignificance before the vast and terrific grandeur of this mountain range.

THE RAILWAY AT CAPE HORN.

And the Sierras. SI

Among the choice scenes in this region we may mention those of the Blue Canyon and Cape Horn, where the road winds along the towering hights of some of the loftiest peaks of this range. The awful spectacle of a railway threading its narrow path with scanty space around the tortuous curves of the summits of the Sierras, over 2,000 feet above their base, must be seen to realize its immensity. Language but feebly conveys an impression of it. 1 was at first somewhat surprised that no adequate description of this fine scenery has been widely spread ; but I can well see that its overpowering grandeur must render mute the most fertile of speech and imagination. For the tourist and pleasure-seeker no finer trip can be found, and judging from the rapidly increasing travel over the road the fact is not only recognized but appreciated. There is much talk just now of an engineering enterprise which if consummated must rank as a peer of the Mont Cenis tunnel. Near the summit of the Sierras, and about 200 miles distant from San Francisco is the beautiful lake of Tahoe, celebrated as much for its purity of water as for the beauty of the surrounding scenery. The bold engineering feat of bringing the waters of this lake into the city has not only been conceived, but has

32 The Humboldt Valley

taken something of a tangible, practical form. In order to accomplish this, it will be necessary to tunnel the Sierras for a distance of nearly six miles — a work the magnitude of which can only be understood when the proposed route is examined. The enterprise was originally projected only for the purpose of supplying the city with pure water ; but recently, 1 learn, the Union Pacific R. R. Co. have offered to contribute $1,000,000 towards the expense of excavating the tunnel so as to be of sufficient size to permit the passage of their trains through it. This arrangement would be of immense value to the road as a means of greatly shortening the distance and ridding it of the heavy expense of maintaining the miles of snow sheds which now encase the road from the summit to about half way down.

After leaving Colfax, the descent is through an easy grade, and the only objects of interest are the constantly succeeding mines, which are in this region carried on by the hydraulic method. This consists in bringing — sometimes from great distances — the waters of some mountain stream, to near the point where it is to be used, and conveying it in pipes similar to the hose employed by fire engines. As the head acquired is sometimes from

HYDRAULIC METHOD OF MINING.

And the Sierras. 35

400 to 600 feet, the water is discharged with tremendous force against the sides of the hills which contain the hidden treasure, and the denudation which follows is something surprising. Whole hills and mountains are made to literally melt away under the immense power of this eroding element, and the country for miles around shows traces of its effects, a perfect transformation of the whole face of the region being the result. By this method, claims that would yield but a beggarly reward to the toils of the miner by the ordinary process of working are made to return handsomely for the investment in ditches, sluices, pipes, &c., necessary to this method.

Many mines are now deserted, and show only the traces of their former busy occupancy by the miners, who have long since decamped for other and more profitable regions. As an illustration of the extreme frugality of the Chinese — who form a very large element of the population here — I am told that they frequently rework a deserted mine from which it was supposed that the Anglo-Saxon had extracted all its wealth, and by their patient persistence find among the well-worked debris sufficient of the precious metal to pay them for the toil bestowed.

CHAPTER III. San Francisco

With many an occasional flitting glimpse of the rich valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin far in the distance, we finally reach the foot of the Sierra Nevada range, and emerge into the rich valleys of California, the golden wealth of whose fruits and grains far exceeds that of its mountain regions. While passing through the great Sacramento valley, I beheld for the first time that celebrated optical phenomenon, the mirage; and a most wonderful sight it was. At the distance, as it appeared, of a mile, could be seen a lake, which seemed several miles across. The surface glistened with the rays of the sun, and was occasionally broken by the gentle ripple of apparent waves, with all the reality of a liquid lake. The reflection of objects that seemed to line its shores was lifelike, presenting the same inverted appearance as seen on an actual lake, this reflection extending even to objects of small size. So perfect was the resemblance in all respects that I found it difficult to persuade myself that it was all an illusion. Yet there was no water within manymiles of where the spectre was seen — nothing, in fact, but a level, dry, parched plain. The origin of the phenomenon is well known, and is possible only in an atmosphere of great purity and transparency, such as is found in this country. Nor is this the only proof of its purity, as its sanitary effect upon any one who has been long in this region will attest ; the air having a rare buoyancy and vivifying power delightful to those accustomed to a murky atmosphere, and constituting one of the admirable characteristics of this region. One of the marked peculiarities of California that sensibly attract the attention of the traveler is its great diversity of climate, which ranges from the tropical to the frigid, and often in sections but a few miles apart. This is the result of the peculiar geographical constitution of the valleys, plains and mountain ranges, together with the powerful modifying influences of the oceanic and atmospheric currents which prevail on the coast. There being some thirty difl"erent valleys running parallel towards the coast, each one of which has a climate peculiar to itself, the traveler is often astonished by the very sudden transitions of this nature which he experiences during even a single day's travel. The result of so great a variety of atmospheric conditions, together with almost an equal diversity of soil, is to give to California a variety of vegetable productions scarcely equaled by any country on the globe,

San Francisco, the great mart of the west, seems to be a natural outgrowth of these involved physical influences, and presents, as one might expect, the most multiform character. In fact, the city is a world of itself, and can never cease to be a source of astonishment to the traveler. Within its bounds you can find representatives of almost all nations, not as a loose floating element, but integrated into one common mass, forming as a whole the most heterogeneous combination ever embodied in a single community. English, Chinese, Spanish, French, and many other equally distinct nationalities are here jumbled together, each in the main preserving its peculiar customs and habits, but yielding so far to one common mode as to cement them into a social composite that is the delight of the ethnologist. Of the foreign element the Chinese is by far the most numerous, and occupies in a central part of the city about twenty blocks, all in one body. A ramble among them constitutes one of the greatest novelties an American can enjoy. In company with a friend I visited, during the late hours of the night, the haunts of these busy little Orientals, and while I met with much to shock one's sensibilities, yet upon the whole the impression derived from a close observation of them was favorable. So well defined and marked are the limits of their occupation of the city, and so abruptly does one enter their quarters that if one were suddenly dropped into'the heart of Hong Kong, the change could not be more startling. For long distances you can see nothing but a busy crowd of these people intently engaged in their various avocations or pastimes. Every little alley is utilized by them for shops or residences, and it is astonishing to see within what limited quarters they can not only live but make themselves even comfortable. There seems to be no branch of trade or of the arts to which these skillful people do not readily adapt themselves ; and their industry is simply indefatigable. Their labors do ^not, as with the civilized Saxon, end with the day,lbut even at the hour of midnight the

JfO San Francisco.

streets and shops present the same busy, lively scene, as during the day. They have among other places of amusement a commodious theatre* wherein are represented what I suppose to be the choicest selections of the Chinese drama — to any but themselves the most complete bedlam. Nothing can exceed the weird scenes presented by the interior of a Chinese theatre. The unearthly sounds of the orchestra — which perhaps to the accustomed ear of the Chinaman is melody itself — the quaint dress and gestures of the players, and unique trappings of the stage, all combine to make up a scene that transcends the most startling effects of the Black Crook. To me it seemed that the whole merit of the play depended upon how complete a discord the orchestra could produce, and the degree of absurdity attained in the gyrations of the actors. To accomplish the former, the orchestra, with tom-toms, cymbals, and other squeaking and rattling instruments, made certainly a most vigorous and 1 may say successful effort.

Whatever of vice is contained in the Chinese character, lawlessness and disorder cannot be charged to them. "Oh," say their enemies, "they are heathen and brutal — low, sensual and animal."

San Francisco. ^l

But I must say that to see so many of these people compressed into small, narrow, dark alleys, and minutely subdivided rooms, as thick as the leaves of the trees, yet preserving the most perfect quiet and order, was to me indeed a wonder. Yet into the most secluded recesses of the gloomiest alley, surrounded on all hands by these people, I am told that one runs not the slightest personal risk, as assaults from them are unknown. Said the guide who accompanied me : " While you are perfectly safe among them, I am sorry to say that only two streets from here, among the haunts of civilized men, you are not safe, and would at the risk of your life make the same tour you have made among these heathen." So much for the degradation of the Chinese, and the perfect order of our boasted civilization. I am satisfied that no other race could be so crowded, within such narrow limits, and yet be guilty of so few infractions of the law as are these simple, mild and inoffensive people — certainly not the noble Celt or Anglo-Saxon.

Among the chief attractions here at present is the Mechanics' Fair now in progress, to which I paid a hasty, desultory visit. The Fair does great credit to the people of this State, and evinces an

Jf2 San Francisco.

enterprise scarcely inferior to that of their Eastern brethren. The building in which the fair is held is a large square edifice, centrally located, covering an entire block, convenient and commodious. The department of machinery was well represented, especially with native productions; but among the multitude on exhibition I found those familiar as of Eastern manufacture. Chief in this list was the celebrated Champion Reaper and Mower made in our city, which seems determined to conquer in this country as it has in the East.

There was an unusually large collection of paintings of rare excellence, evincing a taste for the artistic of the highest kind. In one end of the building was the largest and most beautiful collection of photographs I ever saw — and I doubt whether they have ever been equaled in this country, either for size or perfect accuracy of detail and finish. With full recognition of the skill of the artists who produced them, I must express my belief that their excellence depends much upon the peculiar clearness of the atmosphere of this country, which enables the much needed light to be obtained.

As might be expected, the horticultural department was of the most attractive and profuse na-

San Francisco. Jf.S

ture, affording such a display of fruits, vegetables and botanic productions as no other country can present. I have attended many of the finest expositions of the East, yet must confess for variety of display, convenience of arrangement, and as a whole, I have never seen so great a success as this. It is a subject of just pride to the citizens.

Business is now and has been for some time quite dull, a fact which the citizens are of course anxious to attribute to some temporary cause of derangement, but which it seems to me results from a serious, deep-seated and vital cause. In determining the probabilities of the future of any city, the real causes that develop its growth are the only sure and certain basis from which any prediction can be made. It must be evident that the past growth of San Francisco was wholly owing to the fact that it was a general distributing point for all kinds of supplies and equipments for the interior towns of the western territories and the entire coast, it being the only point from which such supplies could be obtained. Since the completion of the Pacific Railroad, a new inlet has been opened for trade with the interior towns, the result of which has been to bring other cities into competition with San Francisco in supplying those