Brazil and the Brazilians portrayed in historical and descriptive sketches

Preface To The Sixth Edition

The favorable reception which five editions of this work have had in the United States, England, and Brazil, indicates a growing interest in the largest and most stable country of South America. It may be that the illustrations accompanying the Preface to the first edition are not so appropriate to-day as they were ten years ago, but there is still too much ignorance of Brazil in Europe and North America. The present edition will give some idea of the material and moral progress of Brazil during the last decade.

While several new volumes, on some particular portion of the country have been written since 1857, no other work in our language has given a general view of Brazil and the Brazilians. As much of the political and social life of the Empire centres at Rio de Janeiro, the history and descriptions of the state of affairs at the capital are, to a great extent, those of the whole country. It is for this reason that the reader is detained longer in the city where the Monarch resides and the Parliament holds its sessions.

Since 1857, one of the authors (J. C. F.) has visited Brazil in four different years, passing much time at Rio de Janeiro ; sojourning on plantations, and observing the phases of Brazilian slavery ; making extensive journeys along the sea-coast, and penetrating the interior. In 1862 he ascended the Amazon to the verge of Peru, — more than two thousand miles up the most marvellous river in the world.

IV

Preface to the Sixth Edition.

It was the intention of the authors to publish a new edition in 1 864 ; but unexpected duties, both in that and the following years, called the junior colleague to Brazil, and prevented the desired end. The advantages of later information will, it is hoped, more than compensate for the delay.

The experience of the authors in Brazil extends over a long period, and they have endeavored conscientiously and impartially to give their views of the country and its people. They have had no motives to do otherwise. While they have not spared what they deemed faults, whether in religion, slavery, or other matters (see concluding chapter), they have not withheld praise when due, and it has not been from intention if they have failed to bring out the good points of the Brazilians. To foreign merchants in Brazil, unsuccessful in business, or to travellers hastening through the country, ignorant of the Portuguese and French languages, and never associating with the inhabitants, the descriptions of those who have resided long in the Empire, or have travelled extensively through it, seem overwrought. One must always bear in mind the origin of the Brazilians, their newness among the nations of the earth, and the fact that the only true mode of comparing Brazil is not to measure her progress with the United States, England, or France, but with the countries of America whose inhabitants are of the Latin race.

To have detailed with only an ordinary degree of minuteness the changes and progress of Brazil for the last ten years, would require a large volume. As it is, there have been, by emendations and additions, and by notes and appendices, nearly one hundred pages of new matter printed in this edition, while the ordinary text has in many cases been changed and increased. Everything, so far as possible, is brought up to date (1866), by notes at the end of the appropriate chapter. In some cases letters and itinerary aro retained, irrespective of date, because they illustrate manners and

Preface to the Sixth Edition.

v customs that remain in statu quo. When greater space was needed, the subject is more fully set forth in the Appendix. Thus, in regard to the present Paraguayan War (about whose merits there has been as much ignorance * in both the United States and England as there was in Europe concerning the late Rebellion in North America), the reader will find a brief history of its origin and progress on page 352.

Brazilian Slavery is treated in Chap. VIII., and the most recent information concerning it is given on page 139.

Emigration to Brazil has of late attracted much attention, especially in the South of the United States, since 1865. Information under this head can be found on page 333, and in the concluding chapter, in the Speech of Paula Souza, page 592.

Intimately connected with this subject is that of the Religious Disabilities of Protestants ; and no portion of this work is so indicative of great moral progress as the Speech of Sr. Furquim d' Almeida (page 595), and the article in Appendix I.

For important Meteorological Tables, see Appendix K.

The Mineral Riches of Brazil are known to be considerable. Diamond and gold mines have been the chief sources of mineral wealth, but hitherto there has been a deficiency of useful minerals. The desideratum has at length been supplied. Coal discoveries have been made in various sea-coast provinces, but the most important in this respect was made by Mr. Nathaniel Plant (from the British Museum) in Rio Grande do Sul. For a full account of this rich coal mine see Appendix H. In the same Appendix it will be seen that the new gold mines of Sr. Tasso, in Northern

* In four different issues of the journals of New York and Boston, in August, 1866, it was stated that the Allies were at " the last extremity," and that the Paraguayans were just about to annihilate them. Up to this time (October, 1866), the Paraguayans, in the four great battles, counting from that of Riachuelo, 1865, have not won a single victory. The par of gold at Rio is 26c?. to the mil reis ; the average in 1865 - 66 was 23^o?., which does not look like an " extremity."

vi

Preface to the Sixth Edition.

Brazil, demonstrate that the precious metal is by no means confined to the region of S. Joao del Rei.

The leading Brazilian Journals at the capital are noticed on pages 252, 253. Brazilian Literature and literary Brazilians (pages 586, 589) will interest many Anglo-Saxon readers.

While frequent mention is made of the ability and accomplishments of the Emperor Dom Pedro II., Chapter XIII. is especially devoted to that monarch.

On pages 183-185, some account is given of Statesmen and Political Parties.

In 1865, Professor Agassiz, the well-known savant, accompanied by an American scientific corps, visited Brazil at the invitation of the Emperor. The Professor made extensive and most interesting explorations, an account of which is soon to be given to the world. His investigations in the Amazon region have excited a great interest amongst men of science. Major Coutinho, a Brazilian officer of engineers, at the command of the Emperor, accompanied Professor Agassiz in his explorations of the Amazon, and afterward published at Rio, both in Portuguese and English, some account of the wonderful fauna discovered by Professor Agassiz in Northern Brazil. The English version of a portion of these letters will be found in Appendix J.

For Population, Commercial Tables, Weights and Measures, and other statistics, see Appendices E, F, and G.

Within a few years several works on the Brazilian Empire have appeared in England, France, Germany, and Brazil. Amongst these may be mentioned Bates's " Naturalist on the Amazons," a charming book, and the best yet published on that wonderful region. The Deux Annees an Bresil of Biard is, aside from its fine illustrations, the most worthless book ever published on any country. The author seems not to have had one serious reflection. Halfeld's " Survey of the River San Francisco " is a magnificent elephant folio, pub-

Preface to the Sixth Edition. vii

lished at Rio de Janeiro, of which Sir Roderick »Murchison said (before the Royal Geographical Society), " Any country might be proud of such a work." It cannot be purchased, but a number of copies have been sent by the Brazilian government to the libraries of the United States and Europe. The articles of M. Elise Reclus, published in the Revue des Deux Mondes, in 1862, show their author to be an earnest friend of liberty, and, also, that they were written after a very brief visit to Brazil. The conclusions are somewhat hasty, especially when based on M. Biard's book, and Dr. Ave Lallemant's interesting but partial- Reise durch sud Brasilien, Leipsic, 1859. Quite a number of German works have appeared concerning the " colonization " of Germans in Brazil (which was in* many cases a shameless piece of jobbery), and the writers are not disposed to look upon anything in Brazil with the least degree of allowance. Mr. Thomas Woodbine HinchlhT's " South American Sketches " (Longmans, London, 1863) is a very pleasing and accurate book. Sr. Pereira da Silva is now writing a complete history of Brazil, in the Portuguese language. Sr. Aguiar (of San Paulo), in a pamphlet entitled Brazil e os Brazileiros, has given some very caustic sketches of his countrymen. Sr. Soares, of Rio Grande do Sul, has furnished us with an important statistical work on the resources of Brazil. Sr. M. M. Lisboa has, in his Romances Historicos, opened a literary mine, in which it would be well if more Brazilian writers would delve. Sr. A. C. Tavares Bastos, in his Cartas do Solitario (Letters of the Hermit), has given the Brazilian public a most important volume on the various political, economical, and moral questions that so deeply concern the well-being of the Empire. A very excellent book on the resources of Brazil was published, in 1863, by the Baron of Penedo (Brazilian Minister to England), apropos to the contribution of Brazil to the Great Exposition of London, in 1862.

viii

Preface to the Sixth Edition.

The thanks of the authors are due, for corrections and contributions in preparing this edition, to Mr. Robert William Garrett of Rio de Janeiro ; to Mr. Brambier of Para ; to His Excellency Sr. d'Azambuja, Brazilian Minister to the United States ; to the Chevalier d'Aguiar, Brazilian Consul-General at New York ; and to Professors Gumere and Cope, of Haverford College, near Philadelphia.

October, 1866.

3*

L

Preface

The popular notion of Brazil is, to a certain extent, delineated in the accompanying side-illustrations.

Mighty rivers and virgin forests, palm-trees and jaguars, anacondas and alligators, howling monkeys and screaming parrots, diamond-mining, revolutions, and earthquakes, are the component parts of the picture formed in the mind's eye. It is probably hazarding nothing to say that a very large majority of general readers are better acquainted with China and India than with Brazil. How few seem to %x T k be aware that in the distant Jl |J Southern Hemisphere is a \| stable constitutional mon- ^ archy, and a growing nation, occupying a territory of greater area than that of the United States, and that the descendants of the

Preface.

Portuguese hold the same relative position in South America as the descendants of the English in the northern half of the New World! How few Protestants are cognizant of the fact that in the territory of Brazil the Reformed religion was first proclaimed on the "Western Continent!

The following work, by two whose experience in the Brazilian Empire embraces a period of twenty years, endeavors faithfully to portray the history of the country, and, by a narrative of incidents connected with travel and residence in the land of the Southern Cross, to make known the manners, customs, and advancement of the most progressive people south of the Equator.

While "Itineraries" relating to journeys of a few months in various portions of the Empire have been recently published, no general work on Brazil has been issued in Europe or America since the "Sketches" of the senior author, (D.P. K.,) which was most favorably received in England and the United States, but has long been out of print.

Although the present volume is the result of a joint effort, the desire for greater uniformity caused the senior author to place his contributions in the hands of his junior colleague, (J. C. E.,) with the permission to use the name of the former in the third person singular. The amount of matter from each pen is, however, more nearly equal than at first sight would appear.

The authors have consulted every important work in French, German, English, and Portuguese, that could throw light on the history of Brazil,

Preface. '5

and likewise various published memoirs and discourses read before the flourishing "Geographical and Historical Society" at Rio de Janeiro. For statistics they have either personally examined the Imperial and provincial archives, or have quoted directly from Brazilian state papers.

For important services, the authors are happy to acknowledge their indebtedness to Conselheiro J. F. de Cavalcanti de Albuquerque, His Brazilian Majesty's Minister-Plenipotentiary at Washington, and M. le Chevalier d'Aguiar, Brazilian Consul-General at New York; to Hon. Ex-Governor Kent, of Maine, and Ferdinand Coxe, Esq., of Philadelphia, both of whom held high diplomatic positions at Rio de Janeiro; to Hon. Judge J. U. Petit, formerly Consul in one of the most important Northern provinces of Brazil ; to Mrs. L. A. Cuddehy, late of Rio de Janeiro; and to Rev. H. A. Boardman, D.D., of Philadelphia. They also express their obligations to Mr. D. Bates, Dr. Thos. Rainey, and to A. R. Egbert, M.D., for valuable contributions to the Appendix.

The numerous illustrations are, with few exceptions, either from sketches, or daguerreotype views taken on the spot. All have been faithfully as well as skilfully executed by Messrs. Van Ingen & Snyder, of Philadelphia. The accompanying map, prepared by Messrs. J. H. Colton & Co., is one of the most perfect ever published of an Empire which has never been surveyed. In 1855 the junior author travelled more than three thousand miles in Brazil, making corrections of this map as he journeyed; and his sincere thanks are heartily given to Senhor John Lisboa, of Bahia, who has devoted himself to the geography of his native land.

In 1866, J. H. Colton & Co. have published a gigantic map of Brazil, which was a work of years by Mr. Rensberg, one of the leading lithographers of Rio de Janeiro. Messrs. Fleuss, Brothers, publishers of the Semana Illustrada, have also issued several important maps from their establishment— the Imperial Institute Artistico at Rio.

NOTES FOR THOSE GOING TO BRAZIL.

The Portuguese language is universally spoken in Brazil. It is not a dialect of the Spanish, but ia a distinct tongue : as Vieyra says, it is the eldest daughter of the Latin. Portuguese and French are 'the Court languages. One-sixth of the population of large cities and towns speak French. Those acquainted with the French, Italian, or Spanish easily acquire the Portuguese. English is taught in all the higher schools; and it is gratifying to the American that at the capital, and in some other important places, the " Class Readers " of George S. Hillard, Esq., (author of " Six Months in Italy,") are the text-books. While Messrs. Triibner & Co., in London, and the Messrs. Appleton, in New York, have published manuals for learning the Portuguese, it may be of advantage to state that if an Englishman or Anglo-American can give to the vowels the Continental sound, learn the contractions, accents, &c, and the peculiarities of two or three consonants, he will find the Portuguese the easiest of all foreign tongues. The termination ao is pronounced almost like oun in the English word noun. Words ending in oes are pronounced as if an n were inserted between the e and the s. Thus, Caruoes, English Camoens. Terminations em and im are very nearly pronounced like eng and ing in English : e. g. Jerusalem is pronounced Jerusalem X has the force of Sh : thus, one of the great affluents of the Amazon. Xingu, is pronounced Shingu.

The word Dom, (dominus,) which always precedes the name of the Emperor, is not used indiscriminately like the Don of the Spanish, but is a title applied by the Portuguese and their descendants only to monarchs, princes, and bishops.

One miVreis, (a thousand reis,) about fifty-six cents, or two shillings and sixpence English. The Brazilian unit-coin is always represented by the dollar sign after the mil : thus, 5S500 are five mil and five hundred reis, — about three dollars. A conto of reis is little more than £112.

Clothes, of course, should be of a character adapted to the tropics; but always take some woollen garments, for in the interior, and south of Bahia, the thermometer often indicates 60° Fahrenheit. It hardly need be added that a dress-coat is indispensable for those going to the palace. All personal effects, like wearing-apparel, are admitted dutyfree; but the traveller would do well to remember that he should not be overstocked with cigars. There are many drawbacks at the custom-house in favor of goods belonging to emigrants, as agricultural implements, machinery, &c. &c. (vide page 333 and the concluding chapter of this work.)

As to the Patent Laws, mode of obtaining certain privileges for inventions, &c, William V. Lidgerwood, Esq., (United States Charge d' Affaires in 1865-66,) can give more information than any other person in Brazil. He resides at Rio de Janeiro.

Messrs. Triibner & Co. (60 Paternoster Row, London) have facilities for furnishing Brazilian and Portuguese books to any parts of Europe or North America. We are glad that this house is to publish a new and complete Portuguese and English Dictionary, — a very great desideratum, as all such lexicons now extant are exceedingly antiquated.

English and American publications of standard works and light literature are to be obtained of H. M. Lane & Co., 15 Rua Direita, Rio de Janeiro; and of Guelph de Lailhacar & Co., Rua do Crespo, Pernambuco, and in the city of San Paulo.

Carrington & Co.'s United States & Brazilian Express is a very great convenience which has followed the establishment of the United States and Brazil Mail Steamship Company. Messrs. Carrington & Co. (30 Broadway, New York) charge themselves to deliver parcels and money, or to fill orders in Para, Pernambuco, Bahia, and Rio de Janeiro, and vice versd. George N. Davis, Esq., Commission Merchant, 92 Rua Direita, is the agent at Rio de Janeiro.

Hotels in Brazil are not equal to those in Europe or the States. At Rio all have high prices, ranging, according to room, from ten shillings English to £1. The Exchange Hotel and Hotel dos Estrangeiros are the best English hotels in the capital. Hotel d'Europa is the best French hotel. Bennett's, an hour from Rio, is the most comfortable place in Brazil. Bahia, Hotel Furtin is a good restaurant, and convenient to those arriving from sea. At Pernambuco, the Hotel Universel has the 6ame recommendations. The hotels of Bahia and Pernambuco are small, compared with those of Rio. The prices of 1S55 (pages 295 and 296) are from one-third to one-half higher in 1866, — except at Petropolis, at which place are several good hotels. 6

Chapter I

page

The Bay of Rio de Janeiro — Historic Reminiscences — First Sight of the Tropics — Entrance to the Harbor — Night-Scenes — Impressions of Beauty and Grandeur — Gardner and Stewart — The Capital of Brazil — Distinction of Rio de Janeiro 13

Chapter II

Landing — Hotel Pharoux — Novel Sights and Sounds — The Palace Square — Rua Direita — Exchange — The " Team" — Musical Coffee-Carriers — Custom-House — Lessons in Portuguese, and Governor Kent's Opinion of Brazil — Post-Office — Dislike of Change — Senhor Jose Maxwell — Rua do Ouvidor — Shops and Feather- Flowers — The Brazilian Omnibus can be full — Narrow Streets and Police-Regulations — A Suggestion to relieve Broadway, New York — Passeio Publico — Brazilian Politeness — The " Gondola" — The Brazilian imperturbable — Lack of Hotels — First Night in Rio de Janeiro 24

Chapter III

Discovery of South America — Pinzon's Visit to Brazil — Cabral — Coelho — Americus Vespucius — The Name " Brazil" — Bay of Rio de Janeiro — Martin Affonso de Souza — Past Glory of Portugal — Coligny's Huguenot Colony — The Protestant Banner first unfurled in the New World — Treachery of Villegagnon — Contest between the Portuguese and the French — Defeat of the Latter — San Sebastian founded — Cruel Intolerance — Reflections 46

CHAPTER IY.

Early State of Rio — Attacks of the French — Improvements under the Viceroys — Arrival of the Royal Family of Portugal — Rapid Political Changes — Departure of Dom John VI. — The Viceroyalty in the Hands of Dom Pedro — Brazilians dissatisfied with the Mother-Country — Declaration of Independence — Acclamation of Dom Pedro as Emperor 61

Chapter V

The Andradas — Instructions of the Emperor to the Constituent Assembly — Dom Pedro I. dissolves the Assembly by Force — Constitution framed by a Special Commission — Considerations of this Document — The Rule of Dom Pedro I. — Causes of

-Dissatisfaction — The Emperor abdicates in favor of Dom Pedro II 73

Contents.

Chapter VI. Page

The Praia do Flamengo — The Three-Man Beetle — Splendid Views — The Man who cut down a Palm- Tree — Moonlight — Rio "Tigers" — The Bathers — Gloria Hill — Evening Scene — The Church — Marriage of Christianity and Heathenism — A Sermon in Honor of Our Lady — Eesta da Gloria — The Larangeiras — Ascent of the Cercovado — The Sugar-Loaf 86

Chapter VII

Brotherhoods — Hospital of San Francisco de Paula — The Lazarus and the Rattlesnake — Misericordia — Sailors' Hospital at Jurujuba — Foundling-Hospital — Recolhiinento for Orphan-Girls — New Misericordia — Asylum for the Insane — Jose d'Anchieta, Founder of the Misericordia — Monstrous Legends of the Order — Friar John d' Almeida — Churches — Convents 107

Chapter VIII

Illumination of the City — Early to Bed — Police — Gambling and Lotteries — Municipal Government — Vaccination — Beggars on Horseback — Prisons — Slavery — Brazilian Laws in favor of Freedom — The Mina Hercules — English Slave-Holders —

Slavery in Brazil Doomed , 124

Chapter IX

Religion — The Corruption of the Clergy — Monsignor Bedini — Toleration among the Brazilians — The Padre — Festivals — Consumption of Wax — The Intrudo — Processions — Anjinhos — Santa Priscilliana — The Cholera not cured by Processions 140

Chapter X

The Home-Feeling— Brazilian Houses— The Girl— The Wife— The Mother— Moorish Jealousy — Domestic Duties — Milk-Cart on Legs — Brazilian Lady's Delight — Her Troubles — The Marketing and Watering — Kill the Bixo — Boston Apples and Ice — Family Recreations — The Boy — The Collegio — Common-Schools — Highest Academies of Learning — The Gentleman — Duties of the Citizen — Elections — Political Parties — Brazilian Statesmen — Nobility — Orders of Knighthood 161

Chapter XI

Praia Grande — San Domingo— »Sabbath-Keeping — Mandioca — Ponte de Area — View from Inga — The Armadillo — Commerce of Brazil — The Finest Steamship Voyage in the World — American Seamen's Friend Society — The English Cemetery — English Chapel — Brazilian Funerals — Tijuca — Bennett's — Cascades — Excursions — Botanical Gardens — An Old Friend — Home 187

Chapter XII

The Campo Santa Anna — The Opening of the Assemblea Geral — History of Events succeeding the Acclamation of Dom Pedro II. — The Regency — Constitutional Reform — Condition of Political Parties before the Revolution of 1840 — Debates in the House of Deputies — Attempt at Prorogation — Movement of Antonio Carlos — Deputation to the Emperor — Permanent Session — Acclamation of Dom Pedro's

Contents.

Majority — The Assembly's Proclamation — Rejoicings — New Ministry — Public Congratulations — Real State of Things — Ministerial Programme — Preparations for the Coronation — Change of Ministry — Opposition come into Power — Coronation postponed — Splendor of the Coronation — Financial Embarrassments — Diplomacy — Dissolution of the Camara — Pretext of Outbreaks — Council of State — Restoration of Order — Sessions of the Assembly — Imperial Marriages — Ministerial Change — Present Condition 211

Chapter XIII

The Emperor of Brazil — His Remarkable Talents and Acquirements — New York Historical Society — The First Sight of D. Pedro II. — An Emperor on Board an American Steamship — Captain Foster and the " City of Pittsburg" — How D. Pedro II. was received by the " Sovereigns" — An Exhibition of American Arts and Manufactures — Difficulties overcome — Visit of the Emperor — His Knowledge of American Authors — Success among the People — Visit to the Palace of S. Christovao — Longfellow, Hawthorne, and Webster 231

Chapter XIV

Brazilian Literature — The Journals of Rio de Janeiro — Advertisements — The Freedom of the Press — Effort to put down Bible-Distribution — Its Failure — National Library — Museum — Imperial Academies of Fine Arts — Societies — Brazilian Historical and Geographical Institute — Administration of Brazilian Law — Curious Trial 251

Chapter XV

The Climate of Brazil — Its Superiority to other Tropical Countries — Cool Resorts — Trip to St. Alexio — Brazilian Jupiter Pluvius — The Mulatto Improvisor — Sydney Smith's " Immortal" Surpassed — A Lady's Impressions of Travel — An American Factory — A Yankee House — The Ride up the Organ Mountains — Forests, Flowers, and Scenery — Speculation in Town-Lots — Boa Vista — Height of the Serra dos Orgoes — Constancia — The "Happy Valley" — The Two Swiss Bachelors — Youth renewed- — Prosaic Conclusion — Todd's " Student's Manual" — The Tapir — The Toucan — The Fire-Flies — Expenses of Travelling — Nova Fribourgo — Canta Oallo — Petropolis 268

Chapter XVI

Preparations for the Voyage to the Southern Provinces — The Passengers — Ubatuba — Eagerness to obtain Bibles — The Routine on Board — Aboriginal Names — San Sebastian and Midshipman Wilberforce — Santos — Brazilians at Dinner — Incorrect Judgment of Foreigners — S. Vincente — Order of Exercises — My Cigar — Paranagu£ — H.B.M. "Cormorant" and the Slavers — Mutability of Maps — Russian Vessels in Limbo — The Prima Donna — An English Engineer — Arrive at San Francisco do Sul 303

Chapter XVII

The Province of Parana— Message of its First President — Mate, or Paraguay Tea — • Its Culture and Preparation — Grows in North Carolina — San Francisco do Sul — Expectations not fulfilled — Canoe-Voyage — My Companions not wholly carnivorous — A Travelled Trunk — The Tolling-Bell Bird — Arrival at Joinville — A New ' Settlement — Circular on Emigration to Brazil 320

Contents.

Chapter XVIII. Pagb

Colonia Donna Francisca — The School-Teacher — The Clergyman — A Turk — "Bible- Distribution — Suspected — A B C — The Fallen Forest — The House of the Director — A Runaway — The Village Cemetery — Moral Wants — Orchidaceous Plants — Charlatanism — San Francisco Jail — The Burial of the Innocent, and the money-making Padre — The Province of Sta. Catharina — Desterro — Beautiful Scenery — Shells and Butterflies — Coal-Mines — Province of Rio Grande do Sul — Herds and Herdsmen — The Lasso — Indians — Former Provincial Revolts — Present Tranquillity assured by the Overthrow of Rosas and of the Paraguayan Lopez Jr 334

Chapter XIX

Journey to San Paulo — Night-Travelling — Serra do Cubatao — The Heaven of the Moon — Frade Vasconcellos — Ant-Hills — Tropeiros — Curious Items of Trade — Ypiranga — City of San Paulo — Law-Students and Convents — Mr. Mawe's Experience contrasted — Description of the City — Respect for S. Paulo — The Visionary Hotel-Keeper 354

Chapter XX

History of San Paulo — Terrestrial Paradise — Reverses of the Jesuits — Enslavement of the Indians — Historical Data — The Academy of Laws — Course of Study — Distinguished Men — The Andradas — Jose - Bonifacio — Antonio Carlos — Alvares Machado — Vergueiro — Bishop Moura — A Visit to Feijo — Proposition to abolish Celibacy — An Interesting Book — The Death of Antonio Carlos de Andrada — High Eulogium — Missionary Efforts in San Paulo — Early and Present Condition of the Province — Hospitalities of a Padre — Encouragements — The People — Proposition to the Provincial Assembly — Response — Result — Addenda — Present Encouragements 366

Chapter XXI

Agreeable Acquaintance — Old Congo's Spurs — Lodging and Sleeping — Company — ■ Campinas — Illuminations — A Night among the Lowly — Arrival at Limeira— A Pennsylvanian — A Night with a Boa Constrictor — Eventful and Romantic Life of a Naturalist — The Bird-Colony destined to the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences — Ybecaba — Sketch of the Vergueiros — Plan of Colonization — Bridge of Novel Construction — Future Prospects 396

Chapter XXII

A New Disease — The Culture of Chinese Tea in Brazil — Modus Operandi — The Deceived Custoin-House Officials — Probable Extension of Tea-Culture in South America — Homeward Bound — My Companion — Senhor Jose" and a Little Difficulty with him — California and the Musical Innkeeper — Early Start and the Star- Spangled Banner — The Senhores Brotero of S.Paulo — Fourth of July inaugurated in an English Family — "Yankee Doodle" on the Plains of Ypiranga — Lame and Impotent Conclusion — Astronomy under Difficulties — Deliverance — Return to Rio de Janeiro 416

Contents.

Chapter XXIII. Page

The Brazilian North— Extent of the Empire— The Falls of Itamarity— Gigantic Fig- Tree— The Keel-Bill — A Plantation in Minas-Geraes— Peter Parley in Brazil — Sweet Lemons— Baronial Style — The Padre — Vesper-Hours — The Plantation- Orchestra— The White Ants obedient to the Church— The Great Ant-Eater— The Paca — The Musical Cart — The Mines and other Resources of Minas-Geraes — Coffee : its History and Culture— The Province of Goyaz — Stingless Bees and Sour Honey— Mato Grosso— Long River-Route to the Atlantic— A New Thoroughfare — Lieutenant Thomas J. Page — The Survey of the La Plata and its Affluents — First American Steamer at Corumba — Steamboat-Navigation on the Paraguay — Officers of the American Navy — Dr. Kane and Lieutenant Strain — Diamond and Gold Mines the Hinderers of Progress — The Difference in the Results from Diamonds and Coffee 432