Crusading in the West Indies

Introduction

William I. Haven, D. D., LL.D.

General Secretary American Bible Society.

THE glory of the American Bible Society as that of all Mission Boards is due not only to the noble impulses arising in the hearts of earnest believers who consecrate their time and gifts in the homeland, but even more to those loyal spirits who are moved to give themselves to daily and yearly service in the harvest fields both at home and abroad. Apostolic honours belong not to those who govern but to those who go if the content of the term "Apostle " is to have its significant application. Whoever is " in journeyings often, in perils of waters ... in perils in the city, in perils in the wilderness ... in weariness and painfulness," is the true apostle if his labour is in the name of the Master.

I am greatly privileged in being allowed to introduce to the general reader this volume recording surely apostolic labours. Rev. W. F. Jordan, a Canadian, but for some years a naturalized citizen of the United States, at one time briefly in India in missionary service, was led to give himself to the primary missionary task of circulating the Scriptures among the people of the near-by West Indian Islands, and step by step he has been led to undertake superintendence of this work of Bible distribution throughout all of what is commonly

6 INTRODUCTION

called Latin America with the exception of Chile, the Argentine and Brazil. For fourteen years he has travelled incessantly throughout these Republics, the next-door neighbours of the American Republic. He knows their life. He knows their spirit. He knows their needs as few men. He has discovered as one of the great bishops of India discovered in a home visit, that the work among these peoples is very similar to that in the great mission fields of Southern Asia.

At this hour when the Christian Church in America is feeling itself debtor to these Southern Republics, this volume of Mr. Jordan's is particularly timely. It graphically portrays the beautiful tropical scenery, the degradation of the poor, the luxury and comfort of the rich, the courtesy and kindliness of all the people, the hopefulness of service with a world of detail not surpassed by the famous author of " Vagabonding Down the Andes." Mrs. Jordan, a woman of training, devoted to her husband's work, has shared with him not only many of these journeys and deprivations which are harder for the mother and children often than for the traveller, but has made them possible by caring for the home and bearing the loneliness of the months of her husband's absence. While her pen has not been busy in this volume her observations and her reflections are a part of the story.

We cordially commend this most interesting story of " Crusading in the West Indies."

Contents

Foreword 13

Closer relationships with Latin America desirable — Sympathetic understanding important — Courtesy of the people — Field for good literature — Some causes of difference in progress — Our duty to take them the Book — American Bible Society — Personal appreciation.

I Cuba 21

Foreword

THE wanderings of the writer for the last twelve years have been in countries so near to our own land and so intimately connected with it in the destinies of the future that they are beginning to occupy, and deservedly so, an increased place in the interest of our statesmen, as well as business men, and philanthropists. We wish they might occupy a larger place in the thinking of the public generally, especially of that public represented by the membership of our churches and whose benevolent impulses find expression in the activities of the various Mission Boards.

Latin America has much that we need; nay, much that, under the exigencies of the present condition of civilization, we feel we must have. Let us, for a moment, ask ourselves what we would do without the sugar of Cuba and Porto Rico, the rubber of Mexico and South America, the fiber of Yucatan, the bananas from the countries whose shores are washed by the Caribbean, the coffee that we receive from nearly all of Latin America, the cocoa from which our delicious chocolate is made ; to say nothing of the cocoanuts, ivory nuts, hides, petroleum, gold, silver, and platinum that come to our shores from these countries; as well as the multitude of other products that enter into our

14 FOEEWOED

manufactures and commerce ; and we shall realize that we are not independent of them, nor is it desirable that we should be even if it were possible.

On the other hand we possess many things that Latin America must have, mostly manufactured articles. Not only are they buying from us such elementary necessities as shoes, cotton cloth, and canned goods; but railroad equipment, mining, manufacturing, and farm machinery, automobiles, typewriters, photographic supplies, computing scales, adding machines, and all other modern office equipment. All of these articles of commerce they will purchase hereafter in constantly increasing quantities. Germany worked hard for this trade and by a system of favoring the exporter at the expense of the home buyer, by the subsidizing of steamship lines, etc., made itself a large factor in Latin American trade. With the practical elimination of German competition during the war all of these countries looked towards cultivating more intimate trade relations with the country that some of their writers have termed the " Colossus of the North," implying thereby the power, at least, if not the will to oppress and crush. Some are beginning to understand that we are not so disposed. All thinking people see that more intimate trade relations are inevitable and most recognize their desirability.

How important that we should have a sympathetic understanding of the countries with whom

FOEEWOED 15

we are not only bound to have an increased exchange of commercial products; but that are going to call for machinists, miners, agriculturalists, and lumbermen to help develop their vast material resources; for bankers and insurance men, physicians, trained nurses, sanitary engineers, as well as for religious, educational and social workers.

Hitherto, I have spoken only of the material side of the need and desirability of the inter-relationship. From the intellectual and spiritual standpoint a great deal might be said regarding the lessons which each might learn from the other. While we are inclined to be abrupt, even to the border of rudeness, in our dealings with our fellows, the Spanish American is always polite and considerate in all the relationships of social and business life. He does not sit down in a room where there are others, or at a hotel table, without recognizing by bow and word those who may be there before him. When he leaves, it is: "With your permission," and a word of good-will for those who remain; though all may be perfect strangers.

" I never saw anything like it," said an Englishman to me a short time ago, who was visiting Colombia for the first time, " the gentlemanliness of the peon (common working class). If I were visiting any large city in Spain and went about among them as I have here I would be followed by a mob of curious children, staring, laughing at

16 FOEEWOED

me and making unpleasant remarks. Here I am taken as a matter of course. No remarks are made at my awkwardness, I am treated with every consideration by the very poorest and no intimation given that a reward or tip is expected for any service rendered." He did not cease to express his surprise though we were several days together. Of course, I was not surprised. I had been experiencing just this kind of considerate treatment for the last twelve years.

It is a pleasure to testify here to the kind treatment accorded me everywhere during these years of travel among our neighbors. I have yet to experience the first unkind act, or hear the first unkind word directed to me personally by a Latin American ; and I travelled widely in Mexico during the critical period from 1914 to 1918. I am aware that such has not been the experience of all Americans in Mexico. There have been sad exceptions in that country owing to the passions aroused by the war spirit ; but even during the time of greatest stress inconsiderate treatment of the foreigner by the common people was the exception and not the rule.

There is a seeking after the beautiful and artistic among their best writers, both in description, and form of expression, that we would do well to imitate. On the other hand the writings of some authors, of the so-called realistic school, are so sensuous that one almost blushes to confess having

FOEEWOED 37

looked inside the covers' of the books written by them. With a few exceptions the sex attraction as represented in literature is considered from the physical rather than from the intellectual and spiritual side.

There is a great need in all of these countries for a healthy, inspiring, character building literature. Will they read it? Ask Mrs. Barber of Medellin, Colombia. She has a library of the best books she could secure in Spanish ; having selected them from countries as widely separated as Spain and the Philippines, New York and the Argentine, which she lends to a class of girls. " There is nothing my girls will not read and give a good account of, in history, biography, philosophy, or religion," she remarked to me. I was struck with the fact that one large book consisting of the life of John Wesley showed marks of having been read and reread, and there is not a Methodist Church in Colombia.

Naturally in the educational and spiritual fields there is much that we can give to that part of Latin America described here. These countries were much longer under the rule of the mother country than we. The rule of Spain was much more oppressive and tyrannizing than that of England. Not only have they, since their emancipation, been torn by internal strife; but they have had a proportionately much larger indigenous population to absorb than we; and the percentage of

18 FOREWORD

literacy is still much less than with us. These are some of the reasons why the wheels of progress have turned faster in our part of the world than in Latin America. There are many other reasons, among which the difference of climate should not be overlooked.

The principal cause of the difference in progress is, however, deeper and more fundamental. It is religious. The founders of the North American Republic, both Protestant and Catholic, were of strong religious convictions and came to the forbidding shores of the northern continent seeking, not gold or landed wealth, but religious liberty, freedom from persecution, and an opportunity to establish homes where every man could worship God according to his own ideas, without fear of molestation. With us, from the first, the Bible has been an open book, studied and revered as the standard of morals and religion. The founders of the Spanish Dominion in America were religious in their way. Religious liberty was, however, unknown to them. Their religious conquests were those of the sword, and the Inquisition was brought into play to suppress heresy, and, by force, to compel all to confess the same faith. The Bible has not been a household book with them. The few copies that found their way into Spanish America were bulky, many volumed works, filled with annotations and sold at a price that put them beyond the reach of all but the wealthy.

FOKEWOKD 19

To the heirs of the early settlers of the North American Continent the promise of our Saviour has been literally fulfilled in regard to material possessions: " Seek ye first the Kingdom of God and His righteousness and all these things shall be added unto you." The nation has become rich beyond the wildest dreams of our ancestors. In our prosperity let us not forget the God who gave it, nor the book which has been the source of inspiration and strength to all our greatest men. Also remembering that " Where there is no vision the people perish/ ' shall we not make it easy for our neighbors to secure the Book that has meant so much to us?

The experiences recorded in this book are some of the reminiscences of the time spent as a representative of the American Bible Society; whose special mission is the translation, publication and distribution of the Bible among all people, of whatever language or nationality. The years spent in the work have been happy ones, and the service has been a privilege. I have learned to love and appreciate the peoples to the south of us. I am sure this will be the experience of all who approach them in the right spirit.

W. F. J.

Bible House,

Cristobal, Canal Zone.

CUBA

THE writer had followed the suggestions made in the concluding chapter of this book regarding the study of Spanish. Mrs. Jordan had just completed a course at the Union Missionary Training Institute in Brooklyn, N. Y., where he had been teaching. We were ready for work in the foreign field, and expected to go to India. During the last year I had taken up the reading of Spanish in order to avoid losing the time spent on Latin and to double my field of possible usefulness and pleasure.

How the way to India was temporarily closed for us belongs to another story. This begins with the direction of my steps to the Bible House, Astor Place, N. Y., one day in late October or early November of 1908. The American Christian Convention would not be meeting for two years to decide the matter of a mission to India. Meanwhile, I thought possibly the American Bible Society might use me in the Island of Haiti as a distributor of Bibles, because of my knowledge of French, and my former experience in selling religious books during vacations.

I first met the late Dr. Dwight, who was doubtful if the Society would care to take a man who wished to give but two years to the work. He, however, introduced me to Dr. John Fox, corresponding secretary, who after asking a few questions, invited me to meet the Foreign Agencies' Committee that afternoon. Unknown to me they were meeting to consider the resignation of the representative in the West Indies, the Rev. Pedro Reoseco, who wished to be relieved of his duties at once.

When before the Committee, one of the members asked me in Spanish if I could speak the language, I replied very haltingly, in the same language, that I could read and write it, but that I had had no practice in speaking it. I was then asked if I would be willing to go to Cuba for six months and answered in the affirmative. The following week the Board approved of my appointment and the first steamer found us on the way to Havana to take charge of the work of the American Bible Society in the West Indies for a period of six months. Thus began a relationship that has been continued to the present and has taken me through Cuba, Haiti, Santo Domingo, St. Thomas, Guadeloupe, Jamaica, Mexico, Guatemala, Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Chili, and Bolivia, besides to many cities of our own land in the interests of Bible distribution among our Spanish and French speaking neighbors.

CUBA 23

The trip to Cuba, though short, can at times be very unpleasant. Especially is it likely to be rough off Cape Hatteras. We had a good voyage and were not seasick. The first day out was cold and raw, the next was warmer, with the sea a little rough off the Cape. The only spice to the journey was when we struck this bit of rough sea.

Going to Cuba the boats keep rather close to Florida in order to avoid the north-bound Gulf current, hence we were in sight of a long stretch of the Florida coast during the last day out. On the way back to New York from Havana one does not see Florida; as, in order to take advantage of the current, the boats keep farther out to sea. The rate of the current of the Gulf Stream makes a difference of about one day in favor of the north-bound boats.

The morning of the fourth day we awoke in sight of Cuba, and by the time we had dressed and reached the deck, were quite close. We were considerably surprised to see only grass-covered hills, and were impressed by the absence of the profuse tropical vegetation that, in our minds, we had always associated with the West Indies. The grass-covered hills to the east of Havana look like grass-covered hills in any other part of the world. Just at this point of the coast of Cuba, trees are conspicuous by their absence.

A little later in the morning we came opposite Morro point and waited for the pilot. Here we were in full view of the City of Havana, the capital of Cuba, the pearl of the Antilles, once a glittering jewel in the crown of Spain, the largest and wealthiest city of the West Indies. Evidences of its wealth were everywhere manifest.

In the white stone material of its buildings Havana reminds one of Genoa, also in some of its antiquated architecture. Here, however, the likeness ends. Instead of towering above the sea, Havana rises gently from the water's edge. From the deck of the ship as we pass the narrow entrance to Havana Bay, perhaps the best protected harbor in the world, we see the Malecon, or sea-wall driveway, and get a glimpse of the magnificent Prado, a combined walk and driveway, extending from the sea-wall to the Plaza-de-Colon in the business section of the city. The centre of this magnificent avenue is adorned with grass plots, flowering shrubs, fountains and rows of spreading shade trees. It runs between buildings proportionately rich, substantial and elegant. The setting is magnificent. Havana the dirty, the garbage-reeking Havana, Havana the pest-hole of the old revolutionary days, has become Havana the beautiful, Havana the all-season health resort of the Cuba of to-day.

At the time of our arrival there were no docks ; or, at least, the large boats did not tie up to such docks as there were, but anchored in the middle of the Bay. Passengers went ashore in launches and la

CUBA * 25

freight was taken off in lighters. Those who handled this traffic opposed, most strenuously, the building of any docks, and were for a long time powerful enough to succeed in their opposition. I was told by an importer that it cost more to get goods from the ship to the docks than the cost of the freight from Liverpool to Havana harbor.

We were fortunate in having Mr. Reoseco with us to guide our unfamiliar steps. At this time visitors to Cuba required no passports ; and after a perfunctory medical examination we were allowed to land. The keys to our trunks were given to a trusted baggage man, who attended to the customs inspection and brought them to our room in the hotel later.

To reach our destination, we took a " coach," which is the name with which both Spanish and English speaking West Indians have dignified the vehicle technically known as a Victoria in other parts of the world. The fare is very moderate, ten cents for each person to any point in the business section of the city. People used to remark that cab fare was the only inexpensive thing in Havana. The drive was through the old part of the city; so we had an early introduction to the narrow streets of this antiquated portion of Havana. Many of the streets are so narrow that two vehicles can with difficulty pass, and the traffic must perforce be but one way. On these streets the sidewalks vary in width from two feet to six inches, where the curb has literally crowded the sidewalk out ; and on one of them, Empedrado, the street-cars run so close to the buildings that, if one is met while walking on the sidewalk, you are compelled to turn sidewise to allow it to pass. As this was a street down which many of the cars entering the city from the suburbs passed, one was frequently obliged to wait flattened against the wall for several cars to go by. These conditions, however, prevail only in the older part of the city ; the new streets are modern.

We were struck with the wealth displayed in the stores that are crowded into some of these narrow streets; jewelry and plate, rich silks and other fancy textiles, the most expensive kinds of fine groceries, etc. In the glass cases of the stalls of the money changers were piles of Spanish and French gold and silver coins. Havana can display more wealth in small compass than any city that I know.

Havana is a gay city and so impresses one at first sight. To one coming from the cooler countries of the North, where life has to be taken more seriously, Cuba seems to be a care-free, pleasure-loving country where the one object of life is to get all the enjoyment out of it possible.

Life even in the large cities is very much in the open. This open-air life is secured also in the residences, by the many doors, and high windows extending to the floor. Both doors and windows are open, but protected by iron gratings. Some of

CUBA 27

these gratings are composed of fanciful designs. The parlor, or living-room, of the homes is thus open to view from the street. This room is usually paved with a brightly colored mosaic of glazed tiling. The centre table is covered with ornamental bric-a-brac. There are also side tables against the walls with the same style of ornamentation and rocking-chairs in abundance.

Nowhere do I know of a people so given to rocking as are the Cubans. Rocking seems to be the principal occupation of the Cuban lady, interfered with only by lace-making and promenading in the Prado. The Cubans are very sociable and in the evenings one sees the ladies especially, with their visitors, arranged in a circle, facing each other around the centre table rocking and visiting until late at night. The elite of Havana seldom retire until after midnight ; and on their return from the theatres will sit and laugh, gossip and joke, expending their nervous energies in rocking continually until wearied enough to retire.

In social life the Cuban courtship is a very formal affair, and is conducted between the gratings of the barred street windows. The young man begins by saluting the young lady as he passes the house. If his advances are favorably received he stops for a word. As the courtship progresses, they will stand for hours at the window, he on the sidewalk, and she within, always accompanied by some other lady member of the family. While engaged thus the young people are said to be " Pelando el pavo " (picking the turkey). If an engagement results, he is invited into the sitting-room and may there join the rocking party around the centre table; but never are the enamoured couple left alone. Much to the relief of the young people and to the amusement of the passers-by, the chaperon does, however, frequently fall asleep. The privilege of being alone is reserved until after the wedding.

The beautiful promenades of the Prado are made use of to a certain extent during the week, especially by children, nurse girls, aged people and loiterers, who occupy the benches. But Sunday is the great day for promenading, not only in Cuba but pretty generally throughout Latin America. Everyone dresses in his or her best. In fact, many of the young ladies will not go to the promenade unless they have something new to display. Thus the avenue becomes a crowded thoroughfare of gaily dressed ladies and fastidiously groomed gentlemen who pass the long hours of the Sunday afternoon and evening sauntering up and down the beautiful walks, down to the sea-wall, around the band-stand and back again.

American and Spanish ideals of personal beauty differ. Cuban ladies pride themselves on their well-nourished appearance. A young woman has a great horror of being slender. A certain amount of portliness in the feminine figure is absolutely

CUBA 29

necessary to comply with the Cuban idea of beauty. Their sedentary life is such as to favor the development of this figure, which is constantly sought after. One of the most common advertisements in newspapers of Cuba is one offering information to women as to how they may best develop the bust.

The business of Havana is largely in the hands of Spaniards. While, with our help, Cuba won her political independence from Spain, she has not, nor is she ever likely to win her economic independence from the Spanish merchants. Spanish business concerns do not employ Cubans in their service to any extent. The clerks of the firm are generally young Spaniards who come out to serve an apprenticeship with the idea of later becoming members of the firm. In many cases employees lodge in the establishment, and even when they lodge elsewhere all eat at a common table, generally on the premises. These employees eating together at the noon hour at a table supplied by some near-by restaurant furnish one of the novel sights of Havana. The menial service in these establishments is usually performed by the industrious Gallegos, from the province of Galicia in Spain.

Throughout the Island the Cuban is the officeholder. One would think that a government position was the sum and substance of what he had been fighting to secure. In fact, the principal troubles that the Island has had since its independence have been connected with this idea of office-holding. The Negro uprisings fn Santiago Province have been the result of a feeling on the part of the Negro that injustice was being done him. He had fought in the revolutionary ranks and thought that he was entitled to hold as many offices as those of fairer skin.

Graft and red tape seemed to be the principal characteristics of the Island officialdom. There were many employees on the government pay-roll of whom rumor had it that they never appeared at the office except on pay day. When Mr. Cole was in charge of Bible distribution in Cuba in 1914, I took down to him a Ford car for use in and around Havana. It took three weeks to get through the preliminaries necessary to securing a license for the automobile and a chauffeur's license for myself. The mayor very kindly gave me a special permit, however, to use the car immediately upon landing. I was not willing to offer any bribes nor pay anyone for putting the thing through more quickly for me, hence was obliged to return almost daily to the municipal offices, run the gamut of the various departments, and stand for hours before wickets in these offices for the period mentioned; though I knew of others, who, by greasing the wheels of the municipal machinery, had secured their license in much less time.

There is an air of munificence and wealth in the white stone and marble that enter so largely into the construction of the buildings of Havana that

CUBA 31

is not to be seen in any other city in Northern Latin America. Cuba possesses a white building stone that is soft when quarried and hardens upon exposure. While in its soft state it is worked into the desired blocks and shapes with saws, axes, adzes, in fact, any tool with which soft wood can be worked. After hardening sufficiently the blocks are fitted into their places. Under certain conditions the stone is brittle and it is not unusual to see where ornamental projections have broken off and fallen. Pedestrians in the street below have occasionally been killed by these falling pieces.

One of the features of the Island, especially of Havana, are the numerous Spanish Clubs patronized by all classes of people. Some of these clubs are magnificently housed and provide practically all kinds of amusement. They also give banking facilities, insurance and medical service as well.

Wherever one goes, one cannot get away from the impression that in Cuba the chief object of life is present pleasure. Business seems to be conducted to secure money to spend on one's pleasures. Government positions are sought as a means of gratification of pleasure. The chief products of the Island are sugar and tobacco ; and there is such a demand for labor in these industries that there is practically no unemployment ; hence economic as well as climatic conditions seem to have contributed to make the Cubans a care-free, pleasure-loving, people.

II

CUBA (Continued)

CHRISTIANITY is founded upon the message and teachings of the Bible, and the circulation of the Book is of primary importance in connection with the work of world evangelization. For efficiency in this service of distribution the Bible Societies have divided the world into districts called Agencies, putting the work in each field under the direction of an Agency Secretary. The Agency Secretary is the representative in his field of the churches and individuals in the home land, whose instrument the Bible Society is, in helping to give the nations the Bible. He is notified beforehand each year as to how much money he can have for the work in his field. His problem is to use the available funds in placing the largest possible number of books in the hands of people who are likely to read them.